supermodela social

The rise ofHadid

Gigi More dash than cash Vogues high

street edit

Sweet youthAustralian models

to watch & faces to know

Purr-fect How to do bombshell

cats eyes

este

elau

der.

com

.au

' 201

5 E

st

e La

uder

Inc

.

YOURE FLAWLESS EVERY HOUR OF THE DAY.

Double WearLong-Wear Makeup.

Look as beautiful tonight as you did this morning.Double Wear makes flawless easy. Lasts 15 hours without

touch-ups. Wear it for the confidence it gives you.How comfortable it feels. And the way the shade becomes one

with your skin. No wonder millions of women love it.

EVERY SHADE. EVERY SKINTONE.

FREE. TRY IT FOR 10 DAYS. Visit the

Este Lauder Counterin Myer or David Jones

for your perfect match.

Only $50

ww

w.d

ior.c

om

yslb

eaut

y.co

m.a

u

VOLUPT TINTINOILTURN ON YOUR LIPS WITH PLEASURE

THE NATURAL COLOUR BOOST OF A TINT.THE DEEP NOURISHMENT OF AN OIL.

NATURAL IS A STYLE

LES BEIGES

CHANEL .COM

au.c

artie

r.com

Sydney . Melbourne . Brisbane - 1800 13 00 00

Amulette de Cartier

1300 883 880 louisvuitton.com

yslb

eaut

y.co

m

LE TEINT ENCRE DE PEAUFUSION INK FOUNDATIONFEELS LIKE A FEATHER - WEARS LIKE AN INK

Open a whole new world

Rendez-Vous Night & Day watch

Carmen Chaplin, Actor and Director

34 EDITORS LETTER

36 READERS LETTERS

40 CONTRIBUTORS

42 THIS MONTH ON VOGUE.COM.AU

46 VOGUE 180Alex Perry.

VOGUEVIEW51 COMING OF AGERebellion,innocence, bravado and exuberance youth, in all its manifestations, shouts loud.

56 Hey, girl; magical thinking.

58 WAIT FOR ITThe sell-out items towaitlist now, and next.

64 KEEPING TIMETiffany & Co. tapsinto its long history of watchmakingin creating its latest timepieces.

68 STREET TALKTheVogueeditof accessible fashion.

INVOGUE79 SECOND COMINGWith the wealthof experience gained at her former label,Kit Willow Podgornik is starting anew.

82 Personal best; young blood.

84 GIRLS OF INSTAGRAM Meet theIt clique of modern models leveragingthe medium to unprecedented effect.

fi

JUNE 2015

VOL LX No 6 Whole No 612, *RECOMMENDED PRICE

GIGI PAGE 148

COVERGigi Hadid wears Christian Dior dresses and rings. Make-up fromMaybelline, starting with Dream Wonder Foundation in Classic Ivory; on cheeks, Face Studio Master Hi-Light in Light Pink Rose; oneyes, ExpertWear Eyeshadow Quads in Natural Smokes and Volum Express the Mega Plush Mascara in Very Black; on lips, ColorSensational Lipcolor in Born With It.Fashion editor: Natasha Royt Photographer : Benny Horne Hair: Mark Hampton Make-up: Benjamin Puckey Manicure: Geraldine Holford Production: community

24 JUNE 2015

BE

NN

Y H

OR

NE

T IFFANY T COLLECT ION

VISIT TIFFANY.COM OR CALL 1800 731 131 FOR BOUTIQUE LOCATIONS

T IFFANY T COLLECT ION

JUNE 2015

fi

ARTS91 FUN & DAMES Barry Humphries shares his bold vision for the Adelaide Cabaret Festival.

94 A PEACE OF ART Globetrotting performance artist Marina Abramovic loves nothing more than staying still.

96 GIRLS TALK Why do books and film always portray the formative friendships of girls as mere forerunners for romance?

100 ICE BREAKERS This winters cool program of festivals.

102 A LIFE LESS ORDINARY Australian Danielle Moylan lifts the veil on her life in Iran and Afghanistan.

BEAUTY109 NEW-AGE BEAUTYVogues guideto looking youthful at any age.

114 Pure brilliance; lets dance.

116 BEAUTY BITESThe latest news,views and cosmetics confections.

120 FELINE FINESSEBritish make-upartist Charlotte Tilbury shows offher cats eye flick tricks.

FASHION134 YOUNG GUNS They are burning up the catwalks worldwide, Astrid, Fernanda, Grace, Kia and Madison, new-wave Australian cool.

148 GIGI Shes in the LA fash pack, a smouldering sex bomb of the season, all curves, good health and high energy. Gigi Hadids hot, hot; shes on fire.

168 SUPER NATURAL Gentle tailoring, great coats, swanky pants, all softly, softly layered into graceful submission, as worn by Barbara Palvin.

FEATURES162 SMELLS LIKE TEEN SPIRIT What is that reckless spirit that takes over in our teen years, and is it possible to rekindle this youthful vigour as adults?

164 DUE NORTH Once a little-known Swedish actress, Alicia Vikander is starring in six major roles this year and is the new face of Louis Vuitton.

STYLE181 OUT OF SITE Two kindred creatives challenge the conventional Parisian art scene with their unique gallery and Australian approach.

184 ON A HIGH A luxurious hotel in London reveals three new suites that take its offering to another level.

186 WHERE TO BUY

187 HOROSCOPES

192 LAST WORD

YOUNG GUNS

PAGE 134

FELINEFINESSE

PAGE 120

SUBSCRIBE TO

VOGUETURN TO PAGE 130 TO

SUBSCRIBE OR RENEW ANDRECEIVE A BONUS LOCCITANEIMMORTELLE DIVINE CREAM.

28 JUNE 2015

CE

DR

IC B

UC

HE

T B

EN

NY

HO

RN

E

fi

Printed by Offset Alpine Printing, 42 Boorea Street, Lidcombe, NSW 2141 under ISO 14001 Environmental Certication. Offset Alpine is committed to environmental

improvement by using environmental management systems, continuously introducing environmental initiatives and benchmarking to globally recognised standards and monitoring.

Paper bre is from PEFC-certied forests and controlled sources. PEFC/ xx-xx-xx

EDWINA MCANNEDITOR-IN-CHIEF editor@vogue.com.au

Deputy Editor and Features Director SOPHIE TEDMANSONfeatures@vogue.com.au

Fashion Director CHRISTINE CENTENERA

Creative Director at Large ALISON VENESS

ART art@vogue.com.auArt Director MANDY ALEX

Senior Designers BEC MDIVEN DIJANA SAVOR

FASHION fashion@vogue.com.auSenior Fashion Editor KATE DARVILL

Senior Market Editor PHILIPPA MORONEYBookings Director JILLIAN CORNEJO Fashion Associate PETTA CHUA Fashion Assistant MONIQUE SANTOS

Fashion Oce Coordinator KAILA DAGOSTINO Bookings Editor D ANICA OSLAND

FASHION FEATURES and ONLINE vogue@vogue.com.auFashion Features and News Director ZARA WONG

Fashion Writer ALICE BIRRELL Associate Producer JULIA FRANK Senior Product Manager CASSANDRA ALLARS

BEAUTY beauty@vogue.com.auBeauty Director at Large EMMA STRENNER

Beauty Writer REMY RIPPON Health Editor at Large JODY SCOTT

COPY copy@vogue.com.auTravel Editor and Copy Editor MARK SARIBAN

Deputy Copy Editor CUSHLA CHAUHAN

Editorial Coordinator DANIELLE GAY

CONTRIBUTORS JANE ALBERT (Features) CHARLA CARTER (Paris) ALICE CAVANAGH (Paris) VICTORIA COLLISON (Special Projects Editor)

PIPPA HOLT (London) ANDREA HORWOODBUX (W est Coast) NATASHA INCHLEY (Fashion)

EDITORIAL ADMINISTRATION AND RIGHTSEditorial Business Coordinator TRUDY BIERNAT

Commercial Director SEV CELIKNational Sales Director PAUL BLACKBURN Director of Brand Strategy DENNIS MICHAEL Tel: (02) 8045 4661.

Head of Strategy AMELIA HANNAN Tel: (02) 8045 4669. Brand Strategy Managers SUJIN MACKELLAR Tel: (02) 8045 4671. KATHERINE KNOTT Tel: (02) 8045 4654. Sponsorship Manager ELLE RITSON Tel: (02) 8045 4986. Group Sales Director Prestige TONY TROVATO (02) 8045 4987. Prestige Sales CHEYNE HALL Tel: (02) 8045 4667.

ANNA BAJA Tel: (02) 8045 4668. HANNAH COLLINS Tel: (02) 8045 4658. MERRYN PEARSE Tel: (02) 9288 1009. Prestige Implementation Manager BERNADETTE BORG Account Executive KATE DWYER (02) 9288 1009. Sales Director, Victoria KIM CAROLLO Tel: (03) 9292 3204. Victoria Key Account Manager Fashion EMILY BENNETT

Sales Director, Queensland ROSE WEGNER Western Australia Account Manager BRONWYN ROBINSON Tel: (08) 9326 9806.Classied Advertising REBECCA WHITE Tel: 1300 139 305. Asia: KIM KENCHIN GTON, Mediaworks Asia. Tel: (852) 2882 1106.

Advertising Creative Director RICHARD MAULIFFEAdvertising Creative Manager EVA CHOWN Advertising Creative Producer JENNY HAYES

Creative Services Senior Art Directors GEORGIA DIXON CARYN ISEMANN ROHAN PETERSON Advertising Copy Editors ANNETTE FARNSWORTH BROOKE LEWIS

Production Manager MICHELLE OBRIEN Advertising Production Coordinator KATIE NAGY

General Manager, Retail Sales and Circulation BRETT WILLISGroup Circulation Manager GRANT DURIE Subscriptions Retention Manager CRYSTAL EWINS

Digital Director KATHY KIPRIOTISPlatform Manager DAVID BERRY

Marketing Director Lifestyle DIANA KAY Marketing Manager ZOE MEERE Brand Manager RENEE GANGEMI Event Manager ALEXANDRA BAIRD Mar keting Executive ALYSSA LIM

Senior Commercial Manager JOSH MEISNER

Chief Executive Ocer NICOLE SHEFFIELDDirector of Communications SHARYN WHITTEN

Group Publisher Lifestyle NICK SMITH

VOGUE AUSTRALIA magazine is published by NewsLifeMedia Pty Ltd (ACN 088 923 906). ISSN 0042-8019. NewsLifeMedia Pty Ltd is a wholly owned subsidiary of News Limited (ACN 007 871 178). Copyright 2015 by NewsLifeMedia Pty Ltd. All rights reserved. 2 Holt Street, Surry Hills, NSW 2010. Tel: (02) 9288 3000.

Postal address: Vogue Australia, NewsLifeMedia, Level 1, Locked Bag 5030, Alexandria, NSW 2015. Email: editvogueaust@vogue.com.au. Melbourne oce: HWT Tower, Level 5, 40 City Road, Southbank, Victoria 3006. Tel: (03) 9292 2000. Fax: (03) 9292 3299. Brisbane oce: 41 Campbell Street, Bowen Hills, Queensland 4006. Tel: (07) 3666 6910. Fax: (07) 3620 2001.

Subscriptions: within Australia, tel: 1300 656 933; overseas: (61 2) 9282 8023. Email: subs@magsonline.com.au.Subscriptions mail: Magsonline, Reply Paid 87050, Sydney, NSW 2001 (no stamp required). Web site: www.vogue.com.au.

Cond Nast International JONATHAN NEWHOUSE Chairman and Chief Executive NICHOLAS COLERIDGE Pr esidentCond Nast Asia Pacific JAMES WOOLHOUSE President JASON MILES Dir ector of Planning NANCY PILCHER Editorial Director at Large

VOGUE.COM.AU

34 JUNE 2015

editors LETTER

GE

TT

Y I

MA

GE

S

I

Edwina McCann Editor-in-chief

am writing this letter on the rst day back in the oce after Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Australia (MBFWA) has wrapped. For a relatively small population, the depth of talent we produce in creative elds is remarkable. Of course, it is our designers who take the spotlight at MBFWA, and rightly so, but the hairstylists and make-up artists, creative directors and other collaborators behind the scenes are also world-class. Which brings me to the models.

Australia is indeed the lucky country when it comes to modelling. is season we saw a new generation of Australian beauties storm the runways of Paris. Most then ew home to walk at the Sydney event, but before they returned, we caught up with ve of them in New York and photographed them together in the Hamptons. So meet Astrid, Fernanda, Grace, Kia and Madison from page 134. If you havent seen their faces yet, you wont forget them now. ese girls dene the future of Australian modelling and they have a fantastic role model in Gemma Ward, who joined us as our guest editor for the week. Wards insights and opinions can be read at Vogue.com.au.

is issue is all about celebrating sweet youth, from Emma Strenners exploration of the reckless spirit we yearn for in later life (from page 162) to the up-and-coming career of actor and new face of Louis Vuitton Alicia Vikander (on page 164) and our cover star Gigi Hadid (see page 148). As our fashion features and news director Zara Wong points out in her insightful interview with Hadid, rst came the supermodels with their own personal brands, then the anti-models, including Kate Moss, who refused interviews, and now we have the Insta-models whose social media accounts of their lives make up a large part of their appeal to clients and followers alike. eyre smart, savvy, healthy and on the move. e young do indeed inherit the fashion earth, and a ne thing that is.

Enjoy.

With Gemma Ward and Vogues Christina Centenera at Australian fashion week.

LETTER OFTHE MONTHIt is a joy to receive my copy of yourmagazine in the mail each month andhaving read it for more than 50 years, I amstill amazed how relevant to the times Voguehas remained. Apart from the glitz andglamour of your beautiful photography,Voguecontinues to address serious socialissues and reminds us how wonderful it is tobe a modern woman and to take time outto think about others. Your editors lettercommentary in the May issue regardingthe challenges facing Angelina Jolie Pittwas thought-provoking and a wake-up callto young women who might not take timeout of their busy schedules to monitor theirhealth. Angelina is a fine role model and aninspiration to all women. Despite modernmedicine, cancer remains one of the mostinsidious diseases of our time and no-oneshould be complacent. Ladies, the WhiteShirt Campaign is a nice way to supportthe causeandsmarten up your wardrobe.DALE KERFERDRockingham Beach, WA

Write to us at editvogueaust @vogue.com.au or posta comment on our Facebook wall at www.facebook.com/VogueAustralia. Correspondence may be editedfor length and clarity. The writer of the letter of themonth wins an Elizabeth Arden Prevage prize packconsisting of Prevage Anti-aging Daily Serum, Neckand Dcollet Firm & Repair Cream, OvernightCream and Moisture Cream with Sunscreens,Anti-aging + Intensive Repair Eye Serum,Beautiful Color Moisturizing Matte Lipstickin Bold Red and the iconic Eight Hour CreamSkin Protectant, to a total value of $875.

FROM INSTAGRAM

GirlsPLUSRose ByrneMarta Dusseldorp

Krew BoylanGracie Otto

*?=2?I 5 K53D9?B79? B=1>9UC

enduring9>WE5>35 - >45 BC?>UC

newspirit

225I "55 Riley Keough

FROM FACEBOOKWhat a stunning cover.LYNDA WILLOUGHBYWow! Elvis Presleys granddaughteris beautiful.SHIRLZY SAMMUT VASQUEZAbsolutely loving this issue!SHRUTI SINGH

Absolutely stunning @vogueaustralia.@COLINHEANEYAmazing! Cant wait xo.@SAMANTHACANNON

vogue READER

FROM TWITTER Beautiful shots of #RileyKeough and #AbbeyLee for @vogueaustralia.@JENNIFER0693Beautiful issue @vogueaustralia featuring amazing @JaysonBrunsdon and his gorgeous family. @myer #RHOMelbelbourne. @LISAANDLISA1

As the sister of a gay brother who is in a long and committed relationship with another wonderful man (yet, absurdly, isnt allowed tomarry him in this country), your story on Jayson Brunsdon and his partners struggle and triumph in bringing home their beautiful baby really touched me. Thank you, Vogue, for celebrating this amazing family. SALLY BARNSDALEVia email

In the USA: Cond NastChairman: S.I. Newhouse, Jr.CEO: Charles H. Townsend

President: Robert A. Sauerberg, Jr.Artistic Director: Anna Wintour

In other countries: Cond Nast InternationalChairman and Chief Executive: Jonathan Newhouse

President: Nicholas ColeridgeVice Presidents: Giampaolo Grandi, James Woolhouse and Moritz von Laffert

President, Asia-Pacific: James Woolhouse President, New Markets: Carol Cornuau

Director of Licenses, New Markets: Natascha von LaffertPresident and Editorial Director, Brand Development: Karina Dobrotvorskaya

Vice President & Senior Editor, Brand Development: Anna HarveyDirector of Planning: Jason Miles

Director of Talent: Thomas BucailleDirector of Acquisitions and Investments: Moritz von Laffert

Global: Cond Nast E-commerce DivisionPresident: Franck Zayan

Global: Cond Nast Global DevelopmentExecutive Director: Jamie Bill

The Cond Nast group of brands includes:US

Vogue, Vanity Fair, Glamour, Brides, Self, GQ, The New Yorker, Cond Nast Traveler, Details, Allure, Architectural Digest, Bon Apptit, Epicurious, Wired, W, Style.com, Golf Digest, Teen Vogue,

ArsTechnica, Cond Nast Entertainment, The Scene UK

Vogue, House & Garden, Brides & Setting up Home, Tatler, The World of Interiors, GQ, Vanity Fair, Cond Nast Traveller, Glamour, Cond Nast Johansens, GQ Style, Love,

Wired, CondNastCollegeofFashion & Design, Ars Technica France

Vogue, Vogue Hommes International, AD, Glamour, Vogue Collections, GQ, AD Collector, Vanity Fair, Vogue Travel in France,

GQ Le Manuel du StyleItaly

Vogue, LUomo Vogue, Vogue Bambini, Glamour, Vogue Gioiello, Vogue Sposa, AD, Cond Nast Traveller, GQ, Vanity Fair, Wired, Vogue Accessory, La Cucina Italiana, CNLive

GermanyVogue, GQ, AD, Glamour, GQ Style, Myself, Wired

SpainVogue, GQ, Vogue Novias, Vogue Nios, Cond Nast Traveler, Vogue Colecciones,

Vogue Belleza, Glamour, AD, Vanity FairJapan

Vogue, GQ, Vogue Girl, Wired, Vogue Wedding Taiwan

Vogue, GQRussia

Vogue, GQ, AD, Glamour, GQ Style, Tatler, Cond Nast TravellerAllure

Mexico and Latin AmericaVogue Mexico and Latin America, Glamour Mexico and Latin America, AD Mexico,

GQMexicoandLatinAmerica, Vanity Fair MexicoIndia

Vogue, GQ, Cond Nast Traveller, AD

Published under joint venture:Brazil

Published by Edies Globo Cond Nast S.A.Vogue, Casa Vogue, GQ, Glamour, GQ Style

SpainPublished by Ediciones Conelpa, S.L.

S ModaPublished under licence:

AustraliaPublished by NewsLifeMedia

Vogue, Vogue Living, GQBulgaria

Published by S Media Team Ltd.Glamour

ChinaPublished under copyright cooperation by China Pictorial

Vogue, Vogue CollectionsPublished by IDG

Modern BridePublished under copyright cooperation by Women of China

Self, AD, Cond Nast TravelerPublished under copyright cooperation by China News Service

GQ, GQ StyleCzech Republic and SlovakiaPublished by LCI CZ, s.r.o.

La Cucina ItalianaGermany

Published by Piranha Media GmbHLa Cucina Italiana

HungaryPublished by Ringier Axel Springer Magyarorszg Kft.

GlamourIceland

Published by 365 Milar ehfGlamourKorea

Published by Doosan MagazineVogue, GQ, Vogue Girl, Allure, W, GQ Style, Style.co.kr

Middle EastPublished by Arab Publishing Partners Inc.

Cond Nast Traveller, ADPoland

Published by Burda GL Polska SP.Z.O.O.GlamourPortugal

Published by Cofina Media S.A.Vogue

RomaniaPublished by SC Ringier Romania SRL

Glamour South Africa

Published by Cond Nast Independent Magazines (Pty) Ltd.House & Garden, GQ, Glamour, House & Garden Gourmet,

GQ StyleThe Netherlands

Published by G+J Media Nederland CVGlamour, Vogue

ThailandPublished by Serendipity Media Co. Ltd.

Vogue, GQTurkey

Published by Dou Media GroupVogue, GQ

Published by MC Basim Yayin Reklam Hizmetleri Tic. LTDLa Cucina Italiana

UkrainePublished by Publishing House UMH LLC.

Vogue

Vogue AustraliaSubscription rate for 12 issues post paid is $82 (within Australia). Copyright ' 2015. Published by NewsLifeMedia. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part without permission is strictly prohibited. NewsLifeMedia is a licensed user in Australia of the registered trademarks VOGUE,

VOGUE LIVING and GQ and has been granted the exclusive right to use those trademarks in relation to magazines published by NewsLifeMedia by the proprietor of the trademarks. Printed in Australia by

Offset Alpine Printing. Distributed by Gordon and Gotch Australia Pty Ltd, tel 1300 650 666.

Oh on point! Love it.@ITZGIZStunning!!!X@THEHUNTISOVER _FASHIONBLOG

Vogue, you are my idol. You are the vision of beauty, style and grace that every woman aspires to. Next month I am going to Brazil, well, So Paulo to be exact, one of the biggest fashion and beauty cities in the world. And here is me, Belinda, the gringa, the tourist, all the way from the small Queensland surfing town of Coolangatta, where a bikini and surfboard are considered the ultimate accessories. So naturally I turn to your inspiring pages to save my life, and Australias reputation. Hopefully now I might blend into the big city and impress the in-laws with my effortless style and chic new Vogue-inspired makeover. If all else fails, I always have my quaint Aussie accent to charm the locals.BELINDA PROVE Via email

Absolutely adored Abbey Lee and Riley Keough on the cover of the latest issue and was engrossed in Zara Wongs feature about these two very cool actresses. While itsclear Abbey Lee wants to ditch the model label, Id be disappointed if she gave it up entirely. Her ethereal look those eyes and cheekbones and her ability to transform make her captivating in photos. Reading about her friendship with Riley and getting a sense of their personalities was fascinating. Thanks for the reveal, Vogue! Mad Max might not be on my list of must-see movies but Im keen to see how Abbey Lees transformative abilities translate to the big screen in future.ROCHELLE MANSFIELDMorningside, Queensland

36 JUNE 2015

NA

TH

AN

IEL

GO

LD

BE

RG

' Clin

ique

Lab

orat

orie

s, L

LC

So Smart. Its how one serum can visibly address uneven skin tone, lines and wrinkles, or rming. Damage sends signals that prompt Clinique Smart into action. Patented technology. Custom repair as needed. All ages. All ethnicities. Allergy Tested. 100% Fragrance Free.

Clinique Smart Custom-Repair Serum. From $80.Shop now at Clinique Counters nationally and clinique.com.au

ASTRID HOLLERFor 18-year-old Australian model Astrid Holler,youth means discovering new things andcollecting new experiences and shes certainlydone both. Since being scouted byVoguefashiondirector Christine Centenera on the streets ofSydney, she has gone on to enjoy internationalmodelling success. Appearing in Young guns,from page 134, Holler says of her shoot withVogueAustralia: I always have so much funworking with the team! We always have a blastand, of course, get amazing pictures.

ANDREW QUILTYAward-winning Australian photographer Andrew Quilty, who splits histime between Sydney and Kabul, says life in Afghanistan canbe quitenormal. He adds: Of course, we live behind 12-foot-high walls, razorwire, blast film on the windows and have a safe room, but I still walk downthe street to buy milk. On capturing his friend Danielle Moylan forA life less ordinary, on page 102, he says: Photographing a woman inpublic in Afghanistan is, generally, never done. We would literally shootfor maybe 30 seconds before it all got too chaotic and we had to move on.

GILLIANWILKINSNew York-based AustralianGillian Wilkins styled ourup-and-coming models inYoung guns, from page134. For the shoot, Wilkinssays she looked to Americanphotographer Joseph Szabo,whose exploration on youthhas always been a biginspiration. She adds:The theme of youth hassuch an eternal quality to itfor each of us, as its built onmemories and experienceswe are all very fond of.

EMILY BITTOEmily Bitto is a Melbourne-

based writer whose debut novelThe Straysrecently won the 2015

Stella Prize for Australianwomen writers. Her essay for this

issue, Girls talk, on page 96,explores the importance of female

friendships and was inspiredby her own childhood bestie.A devoted writer and animal

activist, Bitto also co-owns andmanages the Heartattack & Vinewine bar in Carlton, Melbourne.

ALEXANDRA BROWNThis will be the last issue of Vogue for Alexandra Brown, who, after more

than two years as our editorial coordinator and arts writer, is departing for Vogue Living. For her final arts story, Fun and dames, from page 91,

Brown interviewed the enigmatic Barry Humphries. Doing these types of interviews was a highlight of her time at the magazine. Each person

I have met has imparted great wisdom and it has been such a joy to get to know them, she says. Her definition of youth? Saying yes.

40 JUNE 2015

vogue CONTRIBUTORS

LUK

E D

UB

BE

LD

E T

IM G

RE

YA

ND

RE

W Q

UIL

TY

/OC

UL

I

A SHORT STORY OF LOVE, SELF AND ALL THAT ISPRECIOUS, FEATURING THE WORLDS MOST BEAUTIFUL PEARLS.DELIVERED TO YOU AT PASPALEY.COM

A taxi is a mobile confessional;she could tell those eyes anything.But to articulate what she is doing would bring with it the risk of coming to her senses, and she doesnt want that.

FROM ACCLAIMED AUTHOR

ANNA FUNDERSTARRING AWARD WINNING ACTRESS

TERESA PALMER

E V E R Y T H I N G P R E C I O U S

GE

TT

Y I

MA

GE

S I

ND

IGIT

AL

RO

RY

MU

LH

ER

E

Follow VogueAustralia on Facebook,Instagram, Pinterest, Tumblr and Twitter.

COAT SEASONHOW TO COVERUP THIS WINTER.

CANNES 2015See the best of thered carpet from the68th annual CannesFilm Festival.

vogue.com.au

This month

FOLLOWHER ADVICESix social medialessons from theyoung celebrity.

FITTING INHow to workout like theCalifornian

model.

DOWNTHE

RUNWAYWhat Gigiwants to do

next.

Go to Vogue.com.aufor our exclusivebehind-the-scenesvideo and the restof our Gigi Hadidcoverage.

MIC

HA

EL

KO

RS

A/W

15/

16

AN

NA

SU

IA/W

15/

16

Karlie Kloss

In Paris.

In Paris.

On the streetsof New

York.

In NewYork.

TO

MF

OR

DA

/W1

5/1

6

BODY OF WORK

Her secrets to feelingconfident

inabikini.

MA

XM

AR

A A

/W 1

5/1

6

ALL ABOUT GIGI

42 JUNE 2015

Still THRIVING AFTER after more than two decades in the business, this HERCULEAN Australian fashion force continues to

create the most feminine and beautifully executed of garments.

Alex PerryWORDS: ALICE BIRRELL STYLIST: PHILIPPA MORONEY

PHOTOGRAPH: HUGH STEWART

vogue 180

46 JUNE 2015

HA

IR: K

OH

MA

KE

-UP

: NA

DIN

E M

ON

LE

Y

MO

DE

L: E

LE

NA

MU

EL

LE

R P

RIC

E A

PP

RO

XIM

AT

E

DE

TAIL

S L

AS

T P

AG

ES

Model wears a custom-made Alex Perry corset,

P.O.A. Perry wears his own clothes. Table, $580,

from Mitchell Road Antique & Design Centre.

ont always let yourself be fooled by the high sheen of fashion; the billowing, swirling gowns of Alex Perry are just decadent nishings over his masterly handling of the female form.

e structured corsets beneath signify much more than just his understanding of the body and intimate construction; they also speak of the grit behind the glamour. Perrys quick-witted quips are as sharp as his discerning eye, and, of course, theres his wicked sense of humour, traits that have made him one of the most recognisable faces of Australian fashion.

He established his atelier in 1992, specialising in custom-made designs for galas and event dressing. e past few seasons has seen him expand his repertoire to include sharply tailored day pieces and ared thigh-skimming mini-dresses.

Perry always has been the consummate expert on beauty: how it appears naturally and understanding our yearning for it. We see itin his designs in its many iterations.

We also remember him for the gowns that rst appeared in Vogue, those that transported us into fantasy. So again, many years later, we celebrate him here, all undone but never unnished.

D

VOGUE.COM.AU 47

Get even closer to Vogue with extended content, Retina display images, video and behind-the-scenes

content from the features and fashion you love.

Apple, the Apple logo and iPad are trademarks of Apple Inc., registered in the US and other countries. App Store is a service mark of Apple Inc *Free trial offer only available on the App Store. Paid subscription commences at conclusion of free trial period. Free trial is for new digital customers only.

FREE TRIAL OFFEREnjoy a 30-day free trial on the App Store*

INTERACTIVE iPad EDITION

supermodela social

The rise ofHadid

Gigi More dash than cash Vogues high

street edit

Sweet youthAustralian models

to watch & faces to know

Purr-fect How to do bombshell

cats eyes

vogueVIEWEDITOR: ZARA WONG

Coming of ageREBELLION,

innocence, bravado and exuberance YOUTH, in all its

manifestations, shouts loud.

Backstage at Anya Hindmarch spring/summer 15.JA

ME

S C

OC

HR

AN

E

VOGUE.COM.AU 51

n 1964 the Beatles ew out of Londons Heathrow Airport for their rst US tour with mobs of fans waiting for them on both sides of the Atlantic. at same

year the rst Biba store opened in Kensington with a sta that included a 15-year-old Anna Wintour, and the January 1965 issue of US Vogue, edited by Diana Vreeland, used the term youthquake. e next year, Yves Saint Laurent established his ready-to-wear line Rive Gauche, and Karl Lagerfeld started at Chlo it signalled asea change in fashion. That same year a 16-year-old teenager called Lesley Hornby had her hair cut and dyed blonde and became known as Twiggy.

e mood of the 60s has ebbed in and out over the past few seasons with fuller shapes (all the better to move around in) and abbreviated lengths. Its not necessarily an era-specic trend but the decade has become shorthand for capturing the mood of the moment: nonchalance, rebellion and even that slight foolhardiness peppered with naivety and optimism. At Mary Katrantzou, models with virgin hair and natural waves wore camisoles with woven lace skirts in sweetly delicate candy shades, and long-sleeved mini-dresses nished with trim preppy

collars. En masse, they looked like a group of giggling teenagers before a school dance. Clare Waight Kellers vision of Chlo for spring/summer 15 espoused little white dresses in intricate broderie anglaise, visual motifs for youth and innocence. Shes kind of girlie in a womans body, shes always got akind of youthful, energetic side, explained Waight Keller of the Chlo girl.

ere is a marvellous moment that starts at 13 and wastes no time, no longer waits to grow up, but makes its own way, its own

look by the end of the week, an excerpt from Vogues January 1965 youthquake issue reads. e dreams, still there, break into action: writing, singing acting, designing. e mood of looking towards the

young and their brave endeavours has reappeared since, whether reinvigorated by Nirvana, Kate Moss or Kendall Jenner. By 15, Kate Moss had appeared on the cover of e Face and became the face of Calvin Klein at 18 a label with a wayward, pared aesthetic that strongly inuences current styles. Meanwhile, Jenner wrote in the Wall Street Journal: My sister Khlo always says to me and my younger sister, Kylie: You have your whole life to be an adult but only so long to be a kid. Who wouldnt embrace youth when ying so high? Zara Wong

IBackstage at

Mary Katrantzou spring/summer 15.

Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell in 1993.

Twiggy, 1967.

CH

LO S

/S 1

5EN MASSE,

THEY LOOKED LIKE A GROUP OF GIGGLING TEENAGERS

52 JUNE 2015

vogue VIEW

BABY LOVESHAPED TO FORM ATALEXANDER MCQUEENAND CHRISTIANDIOR OR BABYDOLLSILHOUETTES AT ERDEMAND GIAMBATTISTAVALLIS DIFFUSION LINEGIAMBA,THE EASEOF MINI-DRESSESENDURES. ZW

at small piece of fabric can go a longway, giving a cool spin to knee-high bootslike those at Louis Vuitton, or a deantturn to a whole brands revamped image, aswith Stuart Veverss reinvention at Coach.We arent deterred by age; this isntsomething thats only for sub-20s.As Isabel Marant said with a shrug:I go on wearing mini-skirts becauseIve got good legs.ZW

Skirting the EDGES.

Sonia Rykiel necklace, P.O.A.

Chlo skirt, $2,490, from www.Net-A-Porter.com.

Christopher Kane blazer, $3,740,

from www.matchesfashion.com.

J.W. Anderson earrings, $555.

Balenciaga bag, $4,035.

J.W. Anderson shoes, $1,245.

Christopher Kane skirt, $890, from www.matchesfashion.com.

Marni earrings, $575.

J.W. Anderson top, $740.

Proenza Schouler boots, $1,695. Chlo bag,

$1,730.

Sonia Rykiel belt, $1,740.

FR

AN

CE

SC

O S

CO

GN

AM

IGL

IO

PR

E-F

AL

L 1

5

MIC

HA

EL

KO

RS

P

RE

-FA

LL

15

GIA

MB

A P

RE

-FA

LL

15

ER

DE

M P

RE

-FA

LL

15

AL

EX

AN

DE

R M

CQ

UE

EN

PR

E-F

AL

L 1

5

CH

RIS

TIA

N D

IOR

PR

E-F

AL

L 1

5

CH

LO P

RE

-FA

LL

15

VOGUE.COM.AU 53

ST

YL

IST:

MO

NIQ

UE

SA

NT

OS

PH

OT

OG

RA

PH

S:

JAM

ES

CO

CH

RA

NE

GE

TT

Y I

MA

GE

S I

ND

IGIT

AL

AL

L P

RIC

ES

AP

PR

OX

IMA

TE

DE

TAIL

S L

AS

T P

AG

ES

your clique.ZW

Knit wit

ABOVE THE ANKLE BUT BELOW MID-SHIN IS THIS SEASONS PUNCTUATION POINT.

SHORTVS

LONG

Emilio Pucci boots, $1,330.

Balmain boots, $2,175.

Proenza Schouler boots, $3,950.

Fendi boots, $2,280, from www.Net-A-Porter.com.

Marni boots, $1,180.

MU

LB

ER

RY

PR

E-F

AL

L 1

5

BA

LE

NC

IAG

A P

RE

-FA

LL

15

Grace Kelly

Comme des Garons Play cardigan, from $420, from Parlour X.

Elder Statesman cardigan, $925.

Barrie cardigan, $2,785, from www.farfetch.com.

Bottega Veneta cardigan, $2,450.

Maison Kitsun cardigan, $400. Sonia by Sonia

Rykiel cardigan, $372.

A model in 1961.

vogue VIEW

54 JUNE 2015

Understanding the appeal of plaid calls for a lesson in subversion. Take a well-established motif with long-standing connotations, then topple, twist and reassert it with lan. Vivienne Westwood and Alexander McQueen relied on plaid as punk s visual calling card. Ripped and frayed, it railed and rallied with its wearers against the current world order until the Seattle sound took up the mantle. Kurt and Courtney led the cry of a youth, all thewhile swathed in plaid. Marc Jacobsentered fashion infamy with his grunge-inuenced collection for Perry Ellis, whereChristy Turlington stomped down therunway in plaid annel shirts, T-shirts andworkman boots. He did end up losing hisjob but went down in fashion history. eirreverence resurfaces in the pre-fallcollections: see Altuzarras mix of plaidshirts with hounds-tooth skirts andEllerys ombre eect on plaid long-sleevedmidi-dress.Alice Birrell

CheckmateThe traditional print

GETS continually recontextualised.

Vintage Cline coat,$620, from www.

farfetch.com.

Joseph coat,$850.

Miu Miu coat,$2,705.

BurberryProrsum

coat, $3,410.

MA

RY

KA

TR

AN

TZ

OU

EL

LE

RY

PRO

EN

ZA

SC

HO

UL

ER

THE PRE-FALL LOOKS

SEEING DOUBLERETURN TO UNIFORM DRESSING BY GETTING INTO THECOLLEGIATE CLASSIC OF A DOUBLE-BREASTED PEA COAT.

VOGUE.COM.AU 55

NIC

OL

E B

EN

TL

EY

GE

TT

Y I

MA

GE

S D

AV

ID S

IMS

A

LL

PR

ICE

S A

PP

RO

XIM

AT

E D

ETA

ILS

LA

ST

PA

GE

S

ST

YL

IST:

PH

ILIP

PA

MO

RO

NE

Y H

AIR

: KO

H

MA

KE

-UP

: PE

TE

R B

EA

RD

MO

DE

L: K

IA L

OW

SH

OT

ON

LO

CA

TIO

N A

T T

HE

HE

LL

EN

IC C

LUB

, SY

DN

EY

AL

L P

RIC

ES

AP

PR

OX

IMA

TE

DE

TAIL

S L

AS

T P

AG

ES

waist, the Girl Chanel has all the slouch andthrowaway cool. Karl Lagerfeld liberated theChanel woman for spring/summer 15, wherethe bag made its debut, and, as the namewould suggest, cut through the prim by addinga jolt of girlish rebellion to her mien. In thespirit of unbridled expression, the bags manyincarnations reect the modern privilege ofchoice and celebrates the individual: it can betied any which way, around the neck, shoulder,waist. e hands-free concept that sparkedCoco to create the 2.55 lives on, althoughtoday for studying, juggling multiple tasksor joining in protest.Vive legirl!

PHOTOGRAPH: HUGH STEWART

houses NEW addition to the family, the Girl Chanel bag.

Hey, girl

Chanel jacket, $11,620, pants, $8,320, and bag,

$5,620, from the Chanel boutiques.

vogue VIEW

56 JUNE 2015

The itemsMOST IN DEMAND andhard to findspeak volumes about where we are at today. Here,the SELL-OUT items towaitlist now, and next.

CHLO DREW BAGThe leather chain shoulder bag has been fastamassing a major following. Eva Galambosof Sydney boutique Parlour X says she getsrepeat requests. Its an easy silhouette and anessential component of the modern capsulewardrobe. Lily Lun of Perth boutique ande-tail site Cultstatus says the bi-colour andthe grey are highly sought after; the latterhas a four- to six-month wait.

SOLD OUT? Join the waitlist now for theChlo Hudson bag from autumn/winter 15with the same 70s vibe and clean form.

MANSUR GAVRIELBUCKET BAGS

Part of the fervour around Mansur Gavrielsbucket bag could be down to the fact that thevegetable-tanned leather pieces take timeto make. Giselle Farhat, owner and directorof MyChameleon.com.au, says she gets upto 40 requests a day. The bags sell out withinan hour of going online: black with ballerinalining is the most popular colour combination.

SOLD OUT? Then waitlist a MansurGavriel Lady bag. It also has the quiet luxuryand practical capacity of the Bucket.

STELLA McCARTNEYSUPERHERO BAGS

Amelia Coote, buying director at Le Louvre,says these are the most in-demand bags atthe Melbourne store right now. Who elsebut Stella would design a collection basedon comic book superheroes?

SOLD OUT? Sign up for Stellas pearl clutch.

M2MALLETIERThe Spanish labels signature gold barand boxy shapes are a recurring look onthe street style scene and one of ModaOperandis best-sellers, says the sites generalmerchandising manager, Lizzie Leventhal.Design partners Melissa Losada and MarcelaVelez couldnt have predicted their popularityor celebrity following, Taylor Swift, EmmaWatson and Cate Blanchett among them.

SOLD OUT? The style you want might beout of stock, but the brand offers a range ofcolours and seasonal updates so you wonthave to wait long for another favourite.

SONIA RYKIELLily Lun has added thehouses autumn/winter15/16 collection to theCultstatus line-up fornext season, tippingthe change in directionheaded by new creativedirector Julie de Libranas a major drawcard.

Hiromi Yu,founder anddirector ofMelbourneboutiqueMarais, haswaitlists forGivenchysbodysuit andblack dressesfrom spring/summer 15.

The pieces,collections andstyles to ask afterbefore everyoneelse does.

Backstage atGivenchy spring/summer 15.

SO

NIA

RY

KIE

LS

/S1

5

A StellaMcCartneybag in Paris.

M2Malletierbag, $1,600,from www.modaoperandi.com.

On the streetsof New York.

BALENCIAGAYu has pegged Balenciagas f lesh-tone

pieces from spring/summer 15 from thecoat in look 10 to the dress from look 15 as the ones to put our names down for.

MATICEVSKIToni Maticevskis pieces have aclear direction that is winningover international buyers,including Avenue 32s RobertaBenteler. Maticevski is greatfor unbelievable eveningwearthat is both modern andsuper-elegant, she says.

Chlo bag,$2,260, fromCultstatus.

SELL-OUT BAGS

Look 10 from Balenciagas

spring/summer 15 collection.

Maticevski top, $950, and skirt, $1,100.

IND

IGIT

AL

AL

L P

RIC

ES

AP

PR

OX

IMA

TE

DE

TAIL

S L

AS

T P

AG

ES

58 JUNE 2015

vogue VIEW

Fashion that DELIVERSExpress shipping throughout Australia, next day service within Sydney & Melbourne

PERFECTPIECES

The singular stylesthat dont come close

to anything else.

SAINT LAURENTBIKER JACKETA regular sell-out at LeLouvre. These are sohighly sought after thatpeople call from all overthe world looking tobuy them, says Coote.

RACHEL COMEYLEGION JEANSSome waitlists are upto two months longfor the jeans that hittwo marks: 70s easeand worn-in denim.

AQUAZZURAEDGARDO OSORIO, AQUAZZURAFOUNDER AND DESIGNER, HASCREATED AT LEAST THREE SELL-OUT STYLES: AMAZON PUMPS,CHRISTY FLATS AND SUEDEBOOTIES. WE CANNOT KEEPUP WITH DEMAND, HE SAYS.

Buyers pickClaire Distenfeld of NewYork boutique Fivestorynames the labels leavingempty hangers in their wake.

Rosetta Getty hasbeen ying o ourshelves, Distenfeldsays, her clogs aswell as her tie-frontdress and heroversized tuxedo.

Rosie Assoulin is100 per cent our mostsuccessful designer todate. Her best-sellingpiece would be theBalloon top fromher rst collection,which we still selland which we arein the midst ofremaking as

a collaboration piece.

CECILIECOPENHAGENCecilie Jorgensen, thecreator of the Danishbrand, was inspired bythekeffiyehscarf. HerStyle 2 dress is the mostasked-after item.

Cecilie Copenhagen top,$195, from Parlour X.

Sophie Hulmekey ring, $325.

Rachel Comeyjeans, $430,from www.mychameleon.com.au.

Rosie Assoulin dress,$6,915, from Fivestoryvia www.farfetch.com.

SA

INT

LA

UR

EN

TS

/S1

5

TO

ME

S/S

15

Rosetta Gettydress, $2,325,

from Fivestoryvia www.far

fetch.com.

Kiini bikini

AquazzuraAmazon shoes,$1,100.

Aquazzura shoes,$890. On the streets,

New York.

Ryan Storer earcuff and stud set,$295, from www.Net-A-Porter.com.

RYAN STORERThe Australianjeweller gained notewith a Swarovski androse gold ear cuff butits his new cuff withmatching stud thata list is growing for.

sparkles, he says.

ROSETTA GETTY

ROSIE ASSOULIN

IND

IGIT

AL

AL

L P

RIC

ES

AP

PR

OX

IMA

TE

DE

TAIL

S L

AS

T P

AG

ES

60 JUNE 2015

vogue VIEW

AR

T D

IRE

CT

ION

: DIJ

AN

A S

AV

OR

ST

YL

IST:

MO

NIQ

UE

SA

NT

OS

P

HO

TO

GR

AP

H: E

DW

AR

D U

RR

UT

IA A

LL

PR

ICE

S A

PP

RO

XIM

AT

E D

ETA

ILS

LA

ST

PA

GE

S

Herms scarf, $490, and bag, $19,930.

Sometimes, when something is just the very, very best, its kind of hard to get any better. But for the Birkin bag (circa 1982), Herms is ripping up the rule book and the lining. is version is raw, with unlinedleather and rough-cut edges, though, of course, with on-purpose precision. Always the fabulous go-to of the extremely wealthy, a Birkin with an unembellished exterior is as frank and genuine as they come because authenticity is the ultimate luxury.

WORDS: ALICE BIRRELL

Could it get any BETTER? The Birkin bag takes an unexpected twist.

Magical thinking

62 JUNE 2015

vogue DNA

ere in a world where people tell the time with smartphones, and with the Apple Watch released this

year, its a bold move for Tiany & Co. to turn to the traditional world of watches as a renewed focus. Nobody really knows it, but we had a factory in Geneva in 1874, explains Nicola Andreatta, vice-president and general manager of Tiany Switzerland Watch Company. You can imagine in 1874 sailing to Europe and going to Switzerland in the middle of the Alps in Geneva and setting up this 80,000 square-foot factory. It was so huge and so advanced in its time. Its both a credit and a misnomer for Tianys jewellery business to overshadow its history in watches; they became part of Tianys repertoire in 1847, just 10 years after the American house was founded.

Amongst archival pieces are jewelled lapel watches and pocket watches. Andreatta shows o a watch from the 1903 archives with neon-coloured numerals on the dial; its glow-in-the-dark and one of the earliest of its kind. We were inventing things, we were manufacturing our own movement and we were the rst brand to bring stopwatches to the USA, he says with excitement. Half-Swiss, half-Italian and athird-generation watchmaker, he was lured to Tiany by the challenge in reinvigorating its watch division and making it more in line with the American houses aesthetic. It looked like a great adventure, but I have to say, a huge challenge, he admits, in lightly Italian-accented English. Today, lets say [watches] are a small part and we denitely want to grow it and globalise it in the

WWORDS: ZARA WONG

Keeping timeStoried American jeweller TIFFANY & CO. taps its long HISTORY of watchmaking in creating its

latest timepieces all precision and beauty.

64 JUNE 2015

vogue VIEW

TIF

FA

NY

& C

O. P

OC

KE

T W

AT

CH

, TIF

FA

NY

& C

O. A

RC

HIV

ES

L E P L I A G E fi H E R I T A G ETEL

. 1

80

0 0

83

35

5 -

' F.

L.C

. /

AD

AG

P, P

AR

IS,

20

15

I

' D

B -

AD

AG

P, P

AR

IS 2

01

5

I '

MA

MO

next few years we want 10 per cent of ourturnover to be from watches in the next 10years. We know our customers are waitingfor new watches coming from Tiany, andI think we have a very good start.

Looking back on its past has servedTiany well. Reminding us of itswatchmaking heritage is the four-metre-wide Tiany clock atop New Yorks GrandCentral Station. And then, of course,theres the iconic statue of the Titan Atlasunder the weight of a globe-cum-clock thatwas placed in front of the Tianys FifthAvenue agship in New York by founderCharles Tiany. e same statue nowappears in front of Tiany & Co. storesinternationally, including SydneysCastlereagh Street agship, and went on toinspire the Atlas watch, designed by formercreative director and preeminent Tianyhistorian John Loring. Everyone woulduse the Tiany clock to set their ownwatches, Andreatta says of the stores clockwith its very central and public location.So we were the unocial timekeeper ofNew York. ats why we like to say CharlesTiany invented the New York minute.

To commemorate Charles Tianysinuence, Andreattas rst watch collectionfor Tiany is the CT60 CT for CharlesTianys initials and 60 for the number ofseconds in a minute. e design referencesa Tiany watch given to AmericanPresident Franklin D. Roosevelt on hisbirthday in 1945. Its clear, uncomplicatedstyle is striking. e way we design

the numbers.Another watch (pictured right) turns the

watch face 90 degrees clockwise, allowing awearer to read the time just by looking down at their wrist, without needing to angle it towards them. It is the utmost in legibility. ere is the vintage touch, the vintage twist here, Andreatta says of the innovative design. It has just the right level of quirkiness to make you look twice.

Although Tianys watch factory and Andreatta are based in Switzerland, the watches are more American in style. We could have followed the path of all things Swiss but decided to do it dierently. We wanted our DNA and the New York world in these watches. In his words, the result is sensational simplicity, combining both functionality and an elegant eciency in its design. Andreatta, of course, would never break social etiquette by surreptitiously checking the time on his smartphone. As he reminds us: Were not making gadgets here. Were making proper watches.

Clockwise from above: Tiffany & Co. stainless steel East West watch, $5,000; CT60 stainless steel watch set with diamonds, $9,650; CT60 stainless steel watch, $7,500; rose gold CT60 watch, $21,400.

66 JUNE 2015

vogue VIEW

AL

L P

RIC

ES

AP

PR

OX

IMA

TE

DE

TAIL

S L

AS

T P

AG

E

EDITOR: PHILIPPA MORONEY

talkStreetWe love theFASH-PACKstreet stars:they just nailit. Here, theVOGUEeditof accessiblefashion.

PRETTYIN PINKKookaskirt, $160.

PALEPALETTEOn the streetsof New York.

LIGHTBULBMOMENTAsos earrings, $20.

CREAMDREAMS

Culottes seenin Paris.

CAPETOWN

Box ponchospotted on the

streets ofParis.

SHIRTDRESSINGMaurie & Evedress, $149.

BEADREADINGKenneth Jay Lanenecklace, $57, fromwww.Net-A-Porter.com.

ORANGECRUSHCos dress,$115.

BLUECOLLARGap shirt, $70.

WRAPDRESSINGSeed Heritagejacket, $170.

WHITEBELTOroton knitwrap, $325.

BUCKET LIST

A bucket bag on the streets

of Paris.

CAPE CARNIVALCountry Road cape, $399.

68 JUNE 2015

vogue VIEW

GU

Y B

AIL

EY

AL

L P

RIC

ES

AP

PR

OX

IMA

TE

DE

TAIL

S L

AS

T P

AG

ES

ONE-OFFAlexa Chung forAG overalls, $445,from www.matchesfashion.com.

WALK

DENIMHEAVENLevis jacket, $120.

CUTTINGCORNERSKaren Walkerskirt, $352.

BUCKETUPSol Sanabag, $200.

CRICKETWHITESH&M jumper,$40.

INVESTMENTVeronika Maine

vest, $159.

MAKETRACKSCountry RoadActive tracktop, $119.

SPORTSCAPTAINCountryRoad Activeshorts, $60.

COOL STRIPEH&M blouse, $40.

FADE TO PALENobody shirt, $179.

DIGITAL REVOLUTIONAdidas watch, $78.

TRAINING DAYReebok shoes, $140.

OR BUSTCameo bustier, $130.

PRIMARY COVERCos coat, $225.

H&

M A

/W 1

5/1

6

VOGUE.COM.AU 69

HOW TOWEAR KHAKI

Contrast withfeminine shapes

and an unexpectedburst of colour.

SNAKESLADDERSTopshopshoes, $108.

RETAILCOMBATFatigue fashionseen in London.

CROCSTARSol Sanaclutch, $90.

CROPPICKINGCameo top, $130.

TOPBRASSAsos bangle,$20.

STRIKEA CORDTopshopskirt, $70.

MOTORCYCLEDIARIESWest 14thjacket, $990.

BLAZERGLORYTopshopjacket, $140.

skirt, $300.ANIMAL

INSTINCTLeopard-printjacket on the

streets ofLondon.

GINGHAM GIRLZara shirt, $60.

ROARHIDE

Lumberjackshirt and suededress in Milan.

MILITARYMUSEKhaki shirt inParis duringcouture week.

JUMPFOR JOYRuby Sees Alljumpsuit, $140.

WERE HOOKEDAsos earrings, $24.

AL

L P

RIC

ES

AP

PR

OX

IMA

TE

DE

TAIL

S L

AS

T P

AG

ES

70 JUNE 2015

vogue VIEW

WOLFORD BOUTIQUES15 Collins Street, Melbourne, Ph 61 3 9650 1277 96 Toorak Road, South Yarra, Ph 61 3 9820 0039

www.wolfordmelbourne.com

WOLFORD ADVERTISING FEATURE

Two opponents in perfect harmony: Black & White is the most classic of all possiblecolour combinations and always in style. No other union of two strong colours is so

timeless and modern at the same time. A well-chosen Black & White outt has withoutdoubt the high-fashion seal of approvement. For an awesome sophisticated chic inBlack & White, choose high-quality statement pieces, match them as you like, and

enjoy the feeling of being perfectly dressed for any occasion.

BLACK & WHITE

TRENCHZONE

The home ofthe trench

coat: London.

RUFFLETUMBLECameotop, $170.

STRAPTO ITTopshopshoes, $92.

STUDHUDDLEThomas Sabo

CREME DELA CREMECooper Sttop, $170.

LEATHERWEA THERSambagpants, $600.

TWO-TONETIM EMaurie & Eveshirt, $149.

BLACKBEAUTYSambagdress, $280.

SNAPHAPPYOrotonclutch, $295.

BAND TOGETHERTopshop skirt, $85.

SOMETHING MORE COMFORTABLEWheels & Dollbaby slip, $185.

TRENCH CONNECTIONSeed Heritage coat, $300.

GREY AREACrop plus coat in Milan.

PURE PEPLU M Finders Keepers top, $120.

SOIRE NOIR

A black clutch with gold

detailing in Paris.

NEWS IN BRIEFH&M bra, $40, and briefs, $15..

72 JUNE 2015

vogue VIEW

AL

L P

RIC

ES

AP

PR

OX

IMA

TE

DE

TAIL

S L

AS

T P

AG

ES

FIR

ST

ED

ITIO

N A

WI5

COLLECTION AVAILABLE IN SELECT STORES AND ONLINE AT WITCHERY.COM.AU

FIRST EDITION

FIR

ST

ED

ITIO

N A

WI5

THIS PAGE: FARRAH TURTLE NECK CAPE $149.95; HARLOW WOOL CULOTTES $169.95; ANGIE KNEE BOOT $329.95. OPPOSITE PAGE: GRACE KNITTED DRESS $229.95; STONE TRENCH $299.95; ANGIE KNEE BOOT $329.95. COVER PAGE: CICCONE LACE UP KNIT $169.95; DEBBIE WRAP SKIRT $169.95; IRIS KNEE BOOT $399.95.

#WITCHERYFIRSTEDITION

Together, we can rede ne shine.

This colour reviving collection by John Frieda keeps brunette rich.

Create salon-quality colour, then protect and illuminate for multi-dimensional brunette that lasts.

Me & John & Brilliant Brunettefi. Together we can.

Fac

eboo

k.co

m/jo

hnfr

ieda

aus

Inst

agra

m @

john

frie

daau

sJo

hnfr

ieda

.com

.au

'201

5 K

ao A

ustr

alia

Pty

Ltd

.

Lifestories

The best from Paris

INSIDE JUSTIN HEMMES HARBOURSIDE SANCTUARY

PlusThe legacy of

Maison Objet 2015

Extraordinary homeswith heart and soul

MarellaGianni Agnelli

Iconic styleand

GoldenyearsDavid Bowies

enduring inuence

TRAVEL CONCIERGE

CRUISING THE MEDITERRANEAN

BRISBANEASPEN

FROM INTERIOR DESIGN TO ART AND CULTURE BE INSPIRED BY VOGUE LIVING.

ENJOY A 30DAY FREE TRIAL* OF

VOGUE LIVING MAGAZINE ON

THE APP STORE AND GOOGLE PLAY

iPad is a trademark of Apple Inc, registered in the US and other countries. App Store is a service mark of Apple Inc. *Free trial offer only available on the App Store and Google Play. Paid subscription commences at conclusion of free trial period. Free trial is for new digital customers only.

VOGUE.COM.AU 79

ST

YL

IST:

PH

ILIP

PA

MO

RO

NE

Y

inVOGUEEDITOR: ALICE BIRRELL

With THE WEALTH of experience gained at her former LABEL, Kit Willow Podgornik is starting anew.

Second coming

Kit Willow Podgornik in her Sydney studio wearing her own KITX clothing.

WORDS: ALICE BIRRELL PHOTOGRAPHS: HUGH STEWART

ou might have wondered where Kit Willow Podgornik has been. Since leaving her label, which cut astrong path in the aughts

(who doesnt remember her boned, scaolded pieces like lingerie and uttering tribal dresses?), theres been radio silence from the household name. After her termination in 2013 as creative director of Willow, Podgornik got busy.

e temptation to drift o-grid never fully got explored. I missed design, Podgornik says. I just needed four walls and ateam of core people to get moving. Strong sun is blindingly lighting those

Y

80 JUNE 2015

four walls in her Surry Hills studio on a late, particularly warm afternoon as a model or two oats by. Sewing machines softly whir and clunk as nal adjustments are made to her debut collection of new label KITX. It has all the hallmarks of awell-managed machine, and it needs to; shes due to show in Paris in two days, though the whole things been underway since the moment she vacated her previous post two years ago.

Podgornik has spoken openly about her departure from her label at the behest of HU

GH

ST

EW

AR

T

in VOGUE

I KNEW WHEN IT HAPPENED WHAT I HAD TO DO I HAD TO CONTINUE TO DESIGN AND CREATE. ITS IN MY BLOOD

the Apparel Group, to which she had sold a majority stake. She has said candidly it was a moment of crisis and heartbreak, and though she cant legally talk about it now, she neednt. Its clear the designer, dressed today in a burnt-orange blouse and oor-length silk georgette skirt, all KITX, didnt spend long ruminating. I knew when it happened what I had to do. And what Ihad to do was to continue to design and create. Its in my blood and my bones.

What Podgornik unspooled in the time she was given to reect a rarity in this

relentlessly paced industry was that she had a strong desire to imbue meaning in what she does. An encounter with Kering board member and the conglomerates director of sustainable development, Jochen Zeitz, opened her eyes to the environmental cost of the way the majority of the industry currently works. Jochen invented this environmental prot and loss system. So rather than look at it in terms of revenue and numbers, he invented something that actually considers the cost that your development and production is

VOGUE.COM.AU 81

tanneries and natural bres like wool and linen and making zips from old bottles. She holds out a bodysuit made from plastic sucked out of the ocean. You couldnt tell this is a recycled fabric. It doesnt look rough, you know? And it doesnt. She also discovered non-violent silk. No, really, dont laugh, she says breaking into laughter herself. Its like another level, but there is silk where they wait for the worm to turn into a buttery, so they dont have to kill it. e cocoon is left and then they weave that.

Its clear shes seriously committed to this and invigorated by it. She talks with energy, occasionally pulling at a ne silk drawstring on her blouse or yanking a delicate gold drop-chain earring from her ear or cu from her hand (the label is doing a full jewellery collection) to demonstrate what she means.

e most important thing is to create desirable, beautiful clothes, Podgornik says. No matter how sustainable your product is, its counteracted if its not selling and people arent wearing it. ats a waste. And theres denite desirability. She used silk, draped and twisted on ice-pink dresses and soft white blouses that have been nely spun in Varanasi. A lot of pieces are all ease, like elongated vests or spliced coat-dress hybrids with reoccurring delicate shoe-string lacing creeping up seams. eres a loose, youthful beauty to one oor-length dress with a low-slung keyhole neckline in black and real gold thread, hand-woven by a group of 30 Indian artisans. e machine cant do that, Podgornik says slyly.

Shes added shoes, too, from the same production team that works on Pierre Hardy and Givenchy, to create a cross between booties and gladiator sandals.

eres a denite condence to all this, likely because shes done it before, but theres also a newness and freedom. Only occasionally do reminders of Willows misfortune crop up From hell to heaven in 12 months read the email invite to her rst Paris presentation but for Podgornik its levelled out to a meditative state for KITX (Kindness, Integrity, Transparency and X for the future). I actually feel blessed to be given the opportunity to do this again. Im very clear about what I need to do and it certainly feels like a gift. Now theres purpose and meaning. Its one more time, with feeling, for Podgornik.

having on the planet, Podgornik explains. [At Willow], all the packaging was biodegradable and we recycled, but I didnt realise the detail. Its a method that has since been rolled out in projects with labels like Gucci, Saint Laurent and Stella McCartney. I wanted to do it with a meaning and a purpose above creating clothing. My customer might choose a dress and walk out the door and feel special or put a jacket on and go to ameeting and feel empowered, but there has to be something else.

rough a network she built in that short year, which includes Livia Firth and Jocelyn Whipple of the Green Carpet, as well as Orsola de Castro, a London-based frontrunner in the ethical fashion movement, she found ways that extended beyond the recyclable packaging shed previously used. Fashion designers are sensitive people. You have to be, to feel whats happening and what people need. Orsola said to me: Its crazy that were not addressing this.

So she has, with organic cotton, minimising leather, using non-toxic

The designer with a model in KITX.

What makes the WOMAN behind the much-loved shoe brand tick? JIMMY CHOOs creative DIRECTOR shares her inspirations and beauty hints.

ince tak ing over as creative director of Jimmy Choo two years ago, Sandra Choi, the niece of the companys namesake designer, has

been on a mission to pump new energy into the nearly 20-year-old shoe brand. To that end, she has renovated the London and Los Angeles agships (New York s is in the works), rolled out collections that expand far beyond Choos signature sexy stilettos, and enlisted artists such as Rob Pruitt and Mat Collishaw to collaborate on everything from ad campaigns to design. Here, Choi shares some of the things shes currently obsessing over.

EDDIE BORGO CONE BRACELETSI bought one of his gold punk bracelets a few years back and lately Ive been wanting more of them in dierent materials: silver, turquoise, moonstone Id wear them all stacked together.

THE MUSIC OF FKA TWIGSI came across this musician while researching my spring collection, which is partially inspired by Josephine Baker. I love Bakers spirit and daring, and this girl reminds me of her. Shes fascinating; her music gets into your bones.

AURELIA CELL REPAIR NIGHT OILI never thought you could put oil on your face, but my make-up artist Alex Byrne has

been educating me. Aurelia does an organic one that smells like lavender, mandarin and rose. I put it on at night; its totally worth washing your face for.

RED WITH A HINT OF PINKIm obsessed with this combination. Every time I see my manicurist, we mix a dierent shade of it.

TYPOGRAPHYI take a lot of photos on my phone and Ive noticed many of them are of fonts, whether from a book, an awning, an album cover. Im not sure why, but Im just visually attracted to the look of letters and words.

THE JIMMY CHOO KAYA WEDGEMaybe its the current 70s inuence in fashion the wider trousers and the looser silhouettes but Im really into this wedge right now. Its still high and strappy, which is what one expects from a Jimmy Choo shoe, but its softer in tone. e spring collection has an arts and crafts theme, and I looked to a lot of Masai jewellery for ideas; theres a richness to this shoe that Ind very cool and unusual.

REFLEXOLOGYCall it an occupational hazard, but my feet get worked. So if I can schedule an appointment once a week, I do. Its the only time I have just for me one hour. And it completely clears my head.

Personal

WORDS: KARIN NELSON

SANDRA CHOI

S

Jimmy Choo shoes, $875.

FKA Twigs

Typography-rich album and, right ,

magazine cover art.

O.P.I Nail Lacquer in the Thrill of Brazil, $20.

Above : B is for Bauhaus, Y is for

YouTube by Deyan Sudjic

(Rizzoli, $50). Right : vintage Biba catalogue,

$578, from www.far

fetch.com.

Jimmy Choo Kaya wedges, $1,475, from a selection at Jimmy Choo.

Jimmy Choo heels, $695.

best

Left : Aurelia Probiotic Skincare Cell Repair Night Oil, $94, from

www.Net-A-Porter.com. Below : Eddie Borgo bracelets (from left)

$420, $720 and $445, from www.

neimanmarcus.com.

82 JUNE 2015

GE

TT

Y I

MA

GE

S

AL

L P

RIC

ES

AP

PR

OX

IMA

TE

DE

TAIL

S L

AS

T P

AG

ES

in VOGUE

WORDS: ALICE BIRRELL

Girls ofInstagramThemodernmodelknows socialmedia. The girls ofInstagram have itall FIGURED outand have used it todocument theirrise. Meet the Itcliqueleveragingthe medium to unprecedented EFFECT.

TIME (YEARS)

HAILEYBALDWIN

GIGI HADID

CARADELEVINGNE

KENDALLJENNER

2012 2013

84 JUNE 2015

vogue VIEW

July 2012: reaches 2 million followers. The same year she also appears on the cover of Teen Vogues March issue and Miss Vogue Australias November issue.

February 2014: makes her runway debut at Marc Jacobs autumn/winter 14/15 show and that

sameseason also walks theGivenchy and Chanelcatwalks.

April 2014: has about 4.8 million followers after making a name for herself on the international runways walking for countless labels, including

Saint Laurent, Louis Vuitton and Lanvin. Establishes herself as a rm favourite ofChanel,

Fendi, Burberry, Topshop and Mulberry, appearing in their campaigns.

May 2014: rst gainsattention after

attending a New Yorkpremiere with

her actor father, Stephen Baldwin.

August 21, 2012: in the early days of Instagram, Delevingne wins 47,822followers.

May 2014: hits 10 million followers. During the following months, she

appears in Interview magazine and on the

coverof Love magazine.

02014 2015

VOGUE.COM.AU 85

September 2014: has a strong season as a runway

model, appearing on the Chanel, Givenchy, Balmain,

Dolce & Gabbana and Sonia Rykiel runways.

June 2014:Delevingnesrabbit gained

7,000 followersin 15 minutesand currently

has 96,300followers.

January 2015:reaches 1.5million, is castagain in Guesscampaigns andis announcedas the new faceof Maybelline.

March 18, 2015: shetops 1 million followersand posts photos withfriend Justin Bieber.

February 21,2015: getsto 2 millionfollowers andbakes a caketo celebrate.

August 26, 2014: reaches700,000+ followers. Now

well established as part of theSports Illustratedfamily along with

Lily Aldridge and Chanel Iman.Around this time, she does a tribute

shoot with USVogueof AnnaWintours rst cover from 1998,

originally shot by Peter Lindbergh.

December 2014: hits 1.2million followers after visiting

Australia for the MelbourneCup and the announcement

she had been cast in the2015 Pirelli calendar. Laterthat month she travels toDubai to celebrate New

Years with Kendall Jenner.

September 2014:a Mulberry bagnamed after hergoes in store.

July 15, 2014: has nearly 6 millionfollowers after appearing in theTopshop campaign.

February 2014: has301,995 followersafter appearing onthe cover of CarineRoitfelds publicationCR Fashion Bookshotby Bruce Weber.

February 24, 2015: hits 20 million followers and posts her most-liked shot to date.

March 2015: hits10 million followersafter walking forChanel autumn/winter 15.

March 2015: hits 2.5 million followersafter being cast again in fashion weeksin New York, Milan and Paris for SoniaRykiel, Balmain, Dolce & Gabbana andTom Fords autumn/winter 15/16show in February. She is later shotwith boyfriend Cody Simpson by MarioTestino as part of his Towel Series.

April 2015: posts a photo ofher Jalousemagazine cover andtallies 1.3 million followers.

February 2015:reaches nearly

1 million followersand soon lands a

Topshop campaign.

September 2014: with525,000 followers, she walks

forSonia Rykiel in Paris.

November 2014: hasmore than 900,000followers the samemonth she turns 18.

April 2015: at the time of print, her Instagram is growing by a dailyaverage of 32,772 followers.

April 2015: reaches 24 million followers.

December 21, 2014: has 16,141,435 followers. Loses 906,897 followers in Instagrams cullof spam accounts the next day.

2.5 million

5 million

7.5 million

10 million

INS

TAG

RA

M.C

OM

/CA

RA

DE

LE

VIN

GN

E I

NS

TAG

RA

M.C

OM

/GIG

IHA

DID

IN

STA

GR

AM

.CO

M/H

AIL

EY

BA

LD

WIN

IN

STA

GR

AM

.CO

M/K

EN

DA

LL

JEN

NE

R

NU

MB

ER

OF

FO

LLO

WE

RS

reen misted woods, silver frostsand a sweeping grey ocean mayall sound like vignettes froma fairytale, but its all very real

for Danish jeweller Charlotte Lynggaard,who lives in this landscape. Its soimportant to have nature very close to me,says Lynggaard on the phone from herconverted summer cottage on the east coastof the Danish island of Zealand, lookingout over the resund Ocean. In our houseIm surrounded by it. I have the sea on oneside and I have the forest on the other.

It is something that inspired her fromchildhood her rst signature had a owerat the end and today she hasmore than 30 scrapbooks ofdrawings, photographs andpaintings of things she hascollected from walks in the forestwith her daughters. Its also thesignature of the jewellery househer father Ole Lynggaardestablished under his own nameand now something shes using asa designer to imbue the newest collectionswith a younger feel. I look at my daughtersand theyll put on a bracelet or a ring ina way I havent thought of wearing, shesays of Laura and Soa LynggaardNormann, who incidentally styled andstarred in a recent lm for the brand withtheir cousin Emili Lynggaard.

She has introduced more silver to thehouses collections, with designs that

mimic the shapes

and its so lovely to see.

GWORDS: ALICE BIRRELL

Young bloodThe daughter of a respected jewellery doyen is drawing YOUTH and VITALITY from her unique surrounds.

Pictured here and below, Lynggaards designs for the label.

Shrimps coat, $825.

Shrimps clutch, $215.

Shrimps x Sophia Webster shoes,

$1,065.

Hannah Weiland wearing her own Shrimps faux-fur jacket.

Charlotte Lynggaard at

home in Denmark.

FUZZY LOGICIts Hannah Weilands 90-year-old granny who plays muse for her London-based faux-fur label Shrimps. She is very glamorous! says the 25-year-old designer. Weilands Technicolor line, founded in 2013 and known for its outerwear and accessories, rst gained attention when Natalie Massenet, founder of Net-A-Porter.com, spotted a Shrimps coat on writer and model Laura Bailey. Weiland began selling through the site soon after. By oering fashion-forward alternatives to real fur, Weiland has pioneered a luxurious and guilt-free trend. When you can get faux fur thats this believable, why wear real? she says. Take it from someone who has spent years honing her craft. Before earning a degree in art history and a diploma in textile design, Weiland interned for fashion designer Betty Jackson at just 15. At 16 she began to assist her godmother, award-winning costumer Rebecca Hale, then interned at Bella Freud. Lending her childhood moniker to her brand name, its clear the enthusiast of sparkly nail polish and kaleidoscopic accessories fuels the kitsch aesthetic behind her brand. It stands for what she loves: Colour, texture and a British sense of humour.

86 JUNE 2015

in VOGUE

WE

ILA

ND

PO

RT

RA

IT: L

ET

TY

SC

HM

ITE

RLO

W

AL

L P

RIC

ES

AP

PR

OX

IMA

TE

DE

TAIL

S L

AS

T P

AG

ES

raymond-weil.com T: (02) 9363-1088

E: info@avstev.com.au

OLE LYNGGAARD COPENHAGEN CORPORATE PAGE OLELYNGGAARDCOPENHAGEN CHARLOTTELYNGGAARD_DK WWW.CHARLOTTELYNGGAARD.DK

A U S T R A L I A: N S W M O S M A N AURUM FINE JEWELLERY C A S T L E H I L L HOUSE OF FRASER C O F F S H A R B O U R KENNEDY JEWELLERS A C T C A N B E R R A CREATIONS

JEWELLERS V I C B A L L A R AT GEMS & JEWELS M E L B O U R N E TREWARNE FINE JEWELLERY M O R N I N G T O N P E N I N S U L A MINZENMAY S O R R E N T O SIREN FINE JEWELLERY S A

A D E L A I D E CASA DORO JEWELLERS AURUM JEWELS TA S H O B A RT CLAUDIA JEWELLERS WA P E RT H / C L A R E M O N T BRINKHAUS JEWELLERS

Q L D B R I S B A N E / K E N M O R E ELLIES EXCLUSIVE JEWELLERS T O W N S V I L L E KIM BARTLETT MASTER JEWELLERS N E W Z E A L A N D: A U C K L A N D N E W M A R K E T

BELLORO FINE JEWELLERY B O TA N Y TIMMERMANS JEWELLERS M I L F O R D PLATINA JEWELLERY C H R I S T C H U R C H FILIGREE FINE JEWELS FILLY BY FILIGREE

S Y D N E Y F L A G S H I P S T O R E 8 9 M A R K E T S T S Y D N E Y C B D T E L . 1 8 0 0 7 6 5 3 3 6

1000 Ann Street Fort itude Va l ley Br isbane Queensland ~ 1300 883 611 ~ reservat ions@empor iumhote ls.com.au

www.empor iumhote ls.com.au

Luxu ry i n De tai l

b r i s ba n e ~ au s t r a l i a

Fun & dames

Barry Humphries shares his bold

vision debuting as ARTISTIC

DIRECTOR of the Adelaide

Cabaret Festival. WORDS: ALEXANDRA BROWN

PHOTOGRAPH: HUGH STEWART

ST

YL

IST:

PH

ILIP

PA

MO

RO

NE

Y

GR

OO

MIN

G: N

AD

INE

MO

NL

EY

VOGUE.COM.AU 91

vogueARTSEDITOR: SOPHIE TEDMANSON

RO

B G

RIF

FIN

/AP

ainting landscapes with John Olsen in the Flinders Ranges of South Australia remains one of Barry Humphriess favourite pastimes.

Its intimidating painting with John Olsen, especially when my paintings are better than his, he says, without cracking a smile. I nd its a form of meditation, painting, and its a change from what Inormally do.

Humphries is about to embark on another change: performing a new role as artistic director of the Adelaide Cabaret Festival. e curatorial position is a marked dierence from his usual day job travelling the globe performing his special brand of theatrical comedy.

Last year, the 81-year-old spent four months touring the US performing his long-running farewell show Eat Pray Laugh! with his stage personas and friends Dame Edna Everage, Sir Les Patterson, Sandy Stone, and a relatively new character, Gerard Patterson: Sir Less brother, apaedophilic Catholic priest.

But now he is back on home soil and returning to his beloved Adelaide to perform his director duties. Let it be known, he is not excited. Despite being the creator of highly enthusiastic characters, Barry Humphries claims he rarely gets excited himself. As soon as I hear the word excitement I know that the deal is over, he says. Idont get excited but I was pleased [about the oer]. I save excitement for more important things like art or sex.

Like his characters, Humphries is known for his provocative statements. Shortly after the announcement of his involvement in the cabaret festival he made headlines for apparently ruling the F word out of the festival. I just said that as a joke, he says. If people get the joke, they wont ask about it, and people who dont get the joke will protest. So that sorts it out and theyre the people we wont ever ask! It was a comment about vocabulary, really.

Humphries is a very robust and well-dressed man with an incredible energy given his age. In person he is a charmer and is as raucous and cheeky as his characters. He is also incredibly smart and can be rather cruel, using his wit and intelligence to catch people o guard. At the Vogue shoot he was quick to shock the young crew with his lewd jokes and enjoyed abit of crass YouTube humour.

Taking on a curatorial role at this stage in his life seems, in fact, a logical move for a man who has worked in almost every

aspect of the creative arts industries. Humphries began performing in small theatres in his hometown of Melbourne in the early 50s before moving to Sydney, then London. Since then hes done it all: from singing songs, performing in sketches and theatre, writing cartoons, acting in numerous lms and appearing as a regular and as a guest on countless television shows. He has also been awarded many prizes, including a special Tony award, the Order of Australia, and was named aCommander of the Order of the British Empire by the Queen.

e experienced thespian has taken kindly to the role of mentor to emerging acts. Oh yes, [Im a] sort of a grand old man of Australian comedy I do feel that and I like to encourage others, he says.

For the cabaret festival he has curated a line-up that includes more than 350 artists with 152 performances over the 14 days. I want this festival to be provocative, entertaining, stimulating, sexy from time to time, even romantic and, every now and then, outrageous! All the things we like in theatre, Humphries says.

Among the festival premieres will be Humphriess own Peter and Jack, a tribute to baritone Peter Dawson and songwriter Jack OHagan featuring world-renowned baritone Teddy Tahu Rhodes; singers Karrin Allyson and (the wonderfully exotic) Laura Fygi; as well as Eddie Perfect, a personal favourite of Humphriess.

I thought we would have to twist peoples arms [to appear], but we are actually having to say no to requests from

quite famous people its a bit awkward, says Humphries. Despite his apparent condence, he admits he is a little anxious about the challenge. Its a new thing for me, so Im given to a bit of stage fright and am nervous. I want it to be a great success; I want it to be the best.

As director he will be lending some of his star power to the event, taking to the stage most nights to introduce some of his favourites and welcoming them to Adelaide, as well as inviting some of his best-known friends along. Les Patterson is doing a special performance of his love songs, says Humphries. Hes written quite a few love songs, so a lot of women will enjoy this. And despite her hectic touring schedule, Humphries is thrilled to conrm that Dame Edna will be in attendance and has also agreed to open up her glittering wardrobe for a special exhibition charting her style evolution since 1955. Im very pleased that Dame Edna is going too, shes not even charging very much money to appear, it amazes me shes practically working for nothing!

But isnt she supposed to be retired? I know, but who retires? I dont know howshe has the energy, I certainly havent got the energy, I would rather sit on the beach down there, he says, still not cracking asmile.

When asked he has considered retirement himself, Humphries replies: No, retirement means death, doesnt it? e Adelaide Cabaret Festival runs from June 5 to 20 at the Adelaide Festival Centre. Go to www.adelaidecabaretfestival.com.au.

P I WANT THIS FESTIVAL TO BE PROVOCATIVE, ENTERTAINING, STIMULATING, SEXY FROM TIME TO TIME, EVEN ROMANTIC AND, EVERY NOW AND THEN, OUTRAGEOUS!

92 JUNE 2015

vogue ARTS

Dame Edna Everage on stage

during her hectic touring schedule.

TWORDS: SOPHIE TEDMANSON

A peace of art

Back in AUSTRALIA after 17 years, globetrotting Serbian-born

performance artist MARINA ABRAMOVIC loves nothing

more than staying perfectly still.

here is blood dripping on the wall behind Marina Abramovi. Its grati, Im doing grati with pigs blood right now, the

artist says, smiling, then turns and, in her thick Serbian accent, reads the dripping words sprawled like a scene from a slaughterhouse across the white wall behind her: Look in the mirror, as it is necessary for your face to disappear in light. I have another one, its one of my favourites: Fresh morning, you will sprinkle over nightmare, dreams.

It is 6am in Sydney, but late afternoon in So Paulo, Brazil, where Abramovi who is speaking over Skype is preparing her latest work. When I tell her it is indeed a fresh morning, she brightens at the idea she has woken me to face this bizarre scene: See, thats the best thing to do!

Im not exactly sure what she means as with a lot of Abramovis work, her words take a while to absorb but it doesnt matter, because being in the presence of this artist is a journey worth taking. Abramovi is one of Time magazines most inuential people, a rock star of performance art given renewed cult status in recent years thanks to the 2012 documentary e Artist is Present. e lm chronicled her preparation for a major retrospective at the Museum of Modern Art in New York showcasing more than 50 works spanning four decades, and including a new performance by the artist that involved Abramovi at a table, silently sitting for 736 hours (over 79 consecutive days), staring at spectators who took turns to sit across from her. e reactions were extraordinary: people stared, people laughed, people cried.

Back on Skype, Abramovi is staring and listening to my voice intently. is is Marina being Marina: warm and engaging,

94 JUNE 2015

vogue ARTS

seductive even. e artist is literally mid-preparation for her next work, but she has taken a moment to engage as herself for our interview, conducted as she puts the nishing touches to an exhibition in Brazil. e Brazil show, Terra Comunal, was one of a series Abramovi is doing this year, including two shows in Australia, which begin this month with Marina Abramovi: Private Archaeology, a retrospective at the Museum of Old and New Art in Hobart. She will then travel to Sydney for Marina Abramovi: In Residence, creating a new art experience and holding workshops for her Marina Abramovi Method, presented by Kaldor Public Art Projects.

Abramovi says her Sydney project (her rst in Australia since 2013s 13 Rooms, although the artist was not present) is a follow-on from her 512 Hours exhibition at Londons Serpentine Gallery last year, in which she taught the public to take on the role of performer while she blended in. Creating experiences that call for more public engagement is Abramovis way of redening art. Im more interested in how the public can have some more experience than just looking at something, she says.

Abramovi, who was born in Serbia but has been based in New York for several decades, has lived and breathed art since the early 1970s. Known for exploring the relationship between the artist and viewer, she gained cult status admired by Lady Gaga, and even featured in Sex and the City for her ability to push her mind and body to physical limits. She has been cut, whipped, and had a gun held to her head in the name of art, and once almost died when she lost consciousness while performing inside a ring of re.

Her extraordinary ability to sit motionless for lengthy periods of time was

formed, in part, in the Australian outback in 1980, a trip she says had a profound impact on her. Accompanied by her then-partner, artist Uwe Laysiepen, Abramovi spent ve months with Aboriginal communities, absorbing their nomadic nature and eating witchetty grubs, honey ants and lizards. e trip resulted in the exhibition Gold Found by the Artists at the Art Gallery of New South Wales in 1981.

My relationship with Australia is very strong and emotional, she says. It really changed my life, being with the people for a very long time and learning patience in the middle of nowhere. Aborigines changed my life because it was amazing to make art with the culture. One that is so dierent from ours, its so primitive. I mean, the Aborigines are highly developed human beings. ese people have developed their psychic energy to an incredible extent. ey are a nomadic culture, and performance is a way of life. ey made a big impact on my performance [Nightsea] Crossing, which was later developed into the Artist is Present. It was based on us doing nothing but sitting for long periods of time, because the heat was so enormous in the desert, you could not do anything. And by sitting, your sense of perception changes, your awareness changes, your consciousness changes.

Abramovi is also drawn to fashion, another art form: I think about people

who are original and who say something. In any category, it can be cinema, architecture, fashion. e world is divided into two categories: originals and ones who follow. And Im always interested in originals. To me, talking about fashion, its Comme des Garons, its Margiela, its Riccardo Tisci [a close friend]; theyre the kinds of people who do things in dierent and new ways and I really love them.

Abramovi is turning 70 next year. She plans to publish her memoirs and throw a huge party at the Guggenheim Museum in New York (Im going to pole dance!) and she insists it wont slow her down. Im warrior-like, she says when I ask where she gets her energy from. I wake up at 6.30am and exercise. Ive never had a drink in my life, I dont smoke, I have a pretty healthy body. I will perform until I die, but I dont want to die in a performance.

But when she does leave us, there will be another huge party three, in fact. Abramovi has already planned her three funerals, to take place in Belgrade, Amsterdam and New York, and wants people to party in her memory.

Its important to be happy, she says. Im happy For so long my work has been misunderstood, but nally by having this [popularity] I have things to say and people listen to me. Im very humble and I want to do things that matter, and Ilike to change. If I can elevate people with my performance, then Im very grateful.

And with those beautiful words, she puts her glasses on and turns her attention back to the pigs blood. Marina Abramovi: Private Archaeology, Museum of Old and New Art, Hobart, June 13October 5; and Marina Abramovi: In Residence, Pier 2/3, Walsh Bay, Sydney, June 24July 5.

BY SITTING STILL, YOUR AWARENESS

CHANGES, YOUR CONSCIOUSNESS

CHANGES

Clockwise from opposite page :

Abramovic in performance; Marina Abramovic: The Artist

is Present at the Museum of Modern

Art; 512 Hours at the Serpentine Gallery; Abramovic blending

in at 512 Hours.

VOGUE.COM.AU 95

MA

RC

O A

NE

LL

I

rowing up, I had the same best friend, Claire, from the age of ve until our 20s, when she went overseas and then moved

to another city and I got together with my r st husband. Or, perhaps more accurately, until the age when I stopped thinking of my friends as occupying places along a hierarchy from closest to least close. I look back on our friendship now as one ofthe great loves of my life.

For almost 20 years, more than twice as long as my marriage would last, as it turns out, we were inseparable. We spent nearly every day together after school, stayed at each others houses, and joined each others family holidays. As children, we were bonded by our imaginations and love of stories. We spent our time concocting elaborate, vivid imaginary worlds in which we might be, for example, twin princesses with mag