Quality report Project Materials II – Fashion and Textile TechnologiesGroup 11

Dewi Mennega26-01-2018 – Saxion Hogeschool Enschede

Project materials

A report about the quality of the cotton jogging pants and the lyocell new fabricEnschede, 26-01-2018

Group 11: Moeywadee Sakhun, Pleuntje van Reekum, Naomi Kruisselbrink and Dewi Mennega

Teachers: Mr. Bertram Wevers and Marijke Timmermans

Table of ContentsIntroduction...............................................................................................................................3Summary...................................................................................................................................4Fabric Quality Profile Templates (FQP).......................................................................................5

Joggingpants (black cotton)..........................................................................................................5New fabric (lyocell).......................................................................................................................7

Experiments standard tests........................................................................................................9Pilling ISO 12945-2........................................................................................................................9Abrasion ISO 12947-1...................................................................................................................9Winkle recovery ISO 9867...........................................................................................................10Wash fastness ISO 105 C10: 2007...............................................................................................10Perspiration fastness SO 105 E-04: 1994(e)................................................................................12Crocking fastness ISO 105 X12: 1993(e)......................................................................................13

Experiments Per innovation/out of the box test.......................................................................15Stretch recovery..........................................................................................................................15

Conclusion/Recommendation..................................................................................................16References......................................................................................................................................17

Introduction

In this report you will read about the different outcomes of different tests and why those tests were important for the particular fabric. Tests have been done with 2 fabrics. The first tests done were with the jogging pants itself. This fabric is a black dyed cotton. The second tests done were with the fabric called lyocell. This fabric was white from origin, but because in the LCA the dyeing is being improved, the white fabric got a natural dye. Because there wasn’t enough dye for the lyocell, some tests have been done with the dyed fabric and some with the white fabric. You will also read about some experiments which have been done and how the results are.

Summary

In the first chapter you will find the fabric quality profile template from the black cotton jogging pants and from the new dyed lyocell. Here you can find the general information and yarn information. You can also find the standard tests+ out of the box tests with their testing standards, ratings, requirements and results.In the second chapter you can find the different experiments from the standard tests like: pilling, abrasion, wrinkle recovery, washing fastness, perspiration fastness and crocking fastness. In the third chapter you will find one out of the box test with stretch recovery. And as last you can read about the conclusion and recommendations.

Fabric Quality Profile Templates (FQP)

Joggingpants (black cotton)Template_Fabric quality profile

Tabel 1Fabric quality profileGeneral fabric/yarn information

Construction (knitted/woven)

Knitted

Paste original sample in here

Content (%) 92% cotton, 5% polyester, 3% elastane

Weight (g/m2) 450 g/m2

Cut width (cm) 135 cm

Density 25 yarns 15 needles

Coloring (dyed, printed) Dyed

Special finishes Chemical No Mechanical Brushed

Standard testsImportant

(yes/no)Testing standard (ISO/BS/ASTM)

Rating (scale/value)

Requirement (Min./max.) Results

Pilling

Yes ISO 12945-2 1-5 After 125 revo: 3-4After 500 revo: 3After 1000 revo: 2-3

No result machine broken

Abrasion

Yes ISO 12947-1 0- till it breaks 10.000 revr No result machine broken

Wrinkle recovery

Yes ISO 9867 1-8 Minimum 4 Right after: WR2After 15 min: WR3After 24 hours: WR3

Color fastness tests

Wash fastness

Yes ISO 105C10: 2007

1-5 Min 4 Secondary celu:4/5Bleached unmer:4/5Nylon 6.6:4/5Polyester:4/5 Acrylic: 4/5Wool:4/5

Perspiration fastness Yes SO 105E-04: 1994(e)

1-5 Alkaline: 4

Acidic: 4

Secondary celu:5Bleached unmer:5Nylon 6.6:5Polyester:5 Acrylic: 5Wool:5Secondary celu:5

Bleached unmer:5Nylon 6.6:5Polyester:5 Acrylic: 5Wool:5

Crocking fastness

Yes ISO 105X12: 1993(e)

1-5 Dry: 4Wet: 3-4

Warp direction: Dry 4/5 Wet 2Weft direction: Dry 2/3 Wet 1/2

Out of the box testing

Stretch recovery Yes No ISO own test

No scale because it can

keep stretchingAfter 24 hours:

1 cm After 24

hours: 1 cm

New fabric (lyocell)Template_Fabric quality profile

Tabel 2Fabric quality profileGeneral fabric/yarn information

Construction (knitted/woven)

Knitted

Paste original sample in here

Content (%) Lyocell

Weight (g/m2) 560 g/m2

Cut width (cm) 135 cm

Density 13 rows 12 needles

Coloring (dyed, printed) Dyed

Special finishes Chemical No finishMechanical No finish

Standard testsImportant

(yes/no)Testing standard (ISO/BS/ASTM)

Rating (scale/value)

Requirement (Min./max.) Results

Pilling

Yes ISO 12945-2 1-5 After 125 revo: 3-4After 500 revo: 3After 1000 revo: 2-3

No result machine broken

Abrasion

Yes ISO 12947-1 0-till breaks 10.000 revr No result machine broken

Wrinkle recovery

Yes ISO 9867 1-8 Minimum 4 Right after: WR7After 15 min: WR7After 24 hours: WR8

Color fastness tests

Wash fastness

Yes ISO 105C10: 2007

1-5 Min 4 Secondary celu:5Bleached unmer:5Nylon 6.6:5Polyester:5 Acrylic: 4/5Wool:5

Perspiration fastness Yes SO 105E-04: 1994(e)

1-5 Alkaline: 4

Acidic: 4

Secondary celu:5Bleached unmer:5Nylon 6.6:5Polyester:5 Acrylic: 5Wool:5Secondary celu:5Bleached unmer:5Nylon 6.6:5

Polyester:5 Acrylic: 5Wool:5

Crocking fastness

Yes ISO 105X12: 1993(e)

1-5 Dry: 4Wet: 3-4

Warp direction: Dry 4 Wet 3/4Weft direction: Dry 4 Wet 3

Extra TestsStretch recovery Yes No ISO own test No scale

because it can keep stretching

After 24 hours: 1 cm

After 24 hours:0,5 cm

Experiments standard tests

Pilling ISO 12945-2The importance of this test is because a jogging pants will get a lot of friction. Because of having friction with a piece of material the materials start to pill after a while. This test is to conclude which material will keep his surface better in shape after all the revs. When having a pants, you prefer to keep your jogging pants as good as possible. Looking at 2 different kind of materials you should look which 1 is better for further consideration.

Put on a larger sample head on the Marindale and and adjusted movement pattern and weight, as well as sometimes some test material in the bottom container. We now punch 4 larger round and determine the thickness and weight of these. We place each sample in a sample container and place these on the white material. We adjust the machine to 250revs and take 1 sample out of the machine once this amount has been reached. Then we set the machine to 250 again, take out the second sample, etc. As well as fort he third and fourth sample. Finally, we tested up to 1000 revs. We asses the appearance of the surface area of every sample in comparison with standard pictures in the special assessment cupboard. For the safety you should the fabric in a right way on the white fabric. You also should not stand to close tot he machines because its spinning.

Results:Cotton: no results because the machine is brokenLyocell: no results because the machine is broken

Conclusion:Because the machine is broken I can’t give a well-founded conclusion, because I don’t have a testing sample.

Abrasion ISO 12947-1The purpose of this test is to see after how many revs the fabric is being worn through. Looking at a jogging pants same as for pilling we have a lot of friction, so the fabric will probably have worn through quicker then without friction. Reason for this test is to look at the difference between cotton and lyocell, which fabric is stronger?Preparing the samples is done according to the standard. With the machine, we punch a little round sample from the material that needs to be tested. from this we determine the thickness and the weight in milligrams. We place the sample in a sample head in top of a round piece of plastic foam. We place the sample head in the machine on the white testing material. we load the sample head with a weight on top of the plate of 9kPa. We adjust the machine to a 10.000 revs and will have a look at the sample every 1.000 revs to see whether the sample has already been worn through or not. When we have reached the 10.000 revs and if no threads have been damaged yet, we place the sample machine for another 10.000 revs. Then, we take out the sample from the machine and determine the thickness and weight. We calculate the percentage of weight loss and the change in thickness. Furthermore, we determine the colour change for dyed fabric with the greyscale. For safety its important to not stand to close to the machine because its spinning.

Results:Cotton: no result because the machine is broken

Lyocell: no results because the machine is broken

Conclusion:Because the machine is broken I can’t give a well-founded conclusion, because I don’t have a testing sample.

Winkle recovery ISO 9867When wearing your jogging pants in home while relaxing its nice when standing up you don’t wear a totally wrinkly pants. You want to do whatever you want with a jogging pants instead of always keeping in mind if I now sit on the chair I will get folds.

In this test, a 16 cm warp direction by 28,5 weft direction piece of the sample is creased for 10 minutes’ accordance with the cylinder method. This test officially takes place in the climate test room. Since we do not have such a room or closet at out school, we perform the test in the regular classroom. After the sample has been careful taken out of the creasing cylinder, a photo is being taken of the creased sample and another photo is taken after 15 minutes and after 24 hours. the pictures are then assessed with the crease scale, which is part of the test. Number 1 indicates that the material is strongly creased and number 8 indicates that the material is not or hardly creased. For safety you should look out when the weight is getting down and your finger will not get stuck in-between.

Results:Cotton: Right after: WR2

After 15 min: WR3 After 24 hours: WR3Lyocell: Right after: WR7

After 15 min: WR7After 24 hours: WR8

Conclusion: Looking at the results you can see that lyocell is less creased after the test but also after 24 hours. The reason for this can be because our lyocell is being knitted by ourselves, so this fabric is also a bit thicker. But after seeing such a big difference in results a little bit thicker lyocell would probably have a better outcome then cotton. Only lycell is good following the requirements. Cotton is not.

Wash fastness ISO 105 C10: 2007When wearing a jogging pants, it would be nice to wash because you wear it often. But if you wash something you don’t want the fabric to lose colour fast. The importance of this fabric is to see which material is better for a jogging pants when washing it commonly.

A textile sample exposed to specified adjacent fabrics or a multifibre is mechanically moved in a standard soap solution under specified circumstances and subsequently washed and dried. The colour change and the staining are assessed with the greyscale. Requirements for this tests are:Soap solution of a synthetic detergent in a concentration of 5 grams/litre.A labomat tester is a machine that rotates stainless steel containers with approximately 550 ml volume at a constant temperature in a hot air bath, at 40 revolutions per minute

Multifibre fabric should be attached to the material that will be tested.10 non-corrodible steel balls, of circa 6mm greyscale for assessing the colour changing in bleeding and stainingcutting tools, a stapler with stainless steel staplesWhen performing this test use a sample from 4cmx10cm and put the multifibre sample together with it. Weight to test piece and put it in the container with 250ml water. Add 5gr/l of synthetic soap solution, close the container with the red key en place into the labomatLet it rotate in the machine for the time as beingNext, take the composite test piece out of the container and wash it at least twice with demineralised water and after that for 2minutes in cold running tap water, and wring out by handNext, remove one staple and hang the sandwich in the line to dry, in such a way that the samples don’t tough each other.This can be done in a oven, the drying temperature can not be more than 60 degreesAfter drying the colour change and the degree of staining is assessed with the help of greyscales. Washing test perform:40 degreestime: 45 minutesliquid ratio: 1:50 composition: soap solution as specifiedwash afterwards with cold, soft waterTo be safe you should not open the machine before the programme is finished. Also look out when opening the machine if the samples aren’t hot.

Results:cotton: Secondary celu:4/5Bleached unmer:4/5Nylon 6.6:4/5Polyester:4/5 Acrylic: 4/5Wool:4/5

Lyocell:Secondary celu:5Bleached unmer:5Nylon 6.6:5Polyester:5 Acrylic: 4/5Wool:5

ConclusionLooking at the outcome of the washing test you can see that bot have an excellent outcome. Looking at the difference is that the lyocell didn’t loose colour only with acrylic. And looking at the cotton test you can see that with every material is lost a little but of colour. As for a conclusion the lyocell is better. So you can see that painting it with natural dye the material won’t lose colour. Both material are good when looking at the requirements.

Perspiration fastness SO 105 E-04: 1994(e)The purpose for this test is when wearing a jogging pants, you will sweat. But when sweating you don’t want the colour to fade. This test is designed for use in assessing the fastness of the dyed, printed, or otherwise coloured textile yarns and fabrics of all kinds to the effects of human perspiration. Specimens of the textile in contact with the standard multifibre fabric (for colour transfer) are immersed in simulated alkaline and acid solution, drained and placed between two plates under a specific pressure, temperature and time in a testing device (perspirometer). Any change in colour of the specimens and staining of the multifibre is then assessed with the corresponding Grey scales for colour change and staining. (Committee 1994)Test Specimens, Cut two specimens 100mm x 40mm (one specimen of 60 x 60 cm in AATCC method) along the length or width direction. For multi-coloured fabrics, prints or stripes, all colours of the design should be in contact with all components of the multifibre, where it is not possible for all colours to be in contact with all components, more than one test specimen may need to be prepared, for fabrics of different shade or fibre composition on face and back, both sides should be tested, Cut two pieces of multifibre 40mm wide.

Test executionput the composite test sample in the cup and pour the sweat solution on it in the following weight ratio: 50 ml sweat solution for every gram of the test samplethoroughly wet the compound test sample at room temperature and leave it in the solution at room temperature for 30 minutesplace the sandwich between 2 perspex plates in the perspironmeter and put pressure on it with 5kg weight. Place the machine with the sample in the kiln at 37 degrees for 4 hours. open the composite test sample and hang the pieces to dry in the air, in such a way that the samples only tough each other at the point of the stitching on short side. The drying temperature should not be higher then 60 degreesafter drying, the colour change and the extent of staining is assessed with the help of greyscales by a panel of three people.Perform this entire procedure with both sweat solutions, in which separate equipment is used. To do a safe test its best to wash your hands after putting the fabric in the solutions. Al other things to do with the test aren’t dangerous.

ResultsCotton:

alkalineSecondary celu:5Bleached unmer:5Nylon 6.6:5Polyester:5 Acrylic: 5Wool:5

Acidic Secondary celu:5Bleached unmer:5Nylon 6.6:5Polyester:5 Acrylic: 5

Wool:5Lyocell:

alkalineSecondary celu:5Bleached unmer:5Nylon 6.6:5Polyester:5 Acrylic: 5Wool:5

acidicSecondary celu:5Bleached unmer:5Nylon 6.6:5Polyester:5 Acrylic: 5Wool:5

ConclusionBoth fabrics are looking at the requirements good. But if you compare both fabrics you can see that they both don’t lose colour when sweating. So for this test it would not make it easier to choose between both materials for a jogging pants.

Crocking fastness ISO 105 X12: 1993(e)

Determines the amount of colour transferred from the surface of coloured textile material to other surfaces by rubbing. The purpose of this test is that when sitting on a couch or chair with your jogging pants you want to make sure the dyeing will not get on the material you’re sitting on.

During the test, a white conditioned rubbing cloth would be rubbing on the test specimen, back and forth in a straight line for 10 cycles with downward force. Usually, two tests would be made, one with a dry rubbing cloth and another with a wet one. Then, after the test is done, the tested rubbing cloth should be evaluated against the grey scale under decent light source.The colour fastness to Crocking/Rubbing is categorised from 1 to 5. The higher the number, the better the fastness. (BENSON 2016)

To get a safe test you should only look out for not getting your finding stuck in the machine when spinning the ‘’wheel’’

Results:Cotton:

Warp direction: Dry 4/5

Wet 2 Weft direction:

Dry 2/3 Wet 1/2 Lyocell:

 Warp direction:

Dry 4 Wet 3/4

Weft direction: Dry 4

Wet 3Looking at the requirements you can see that the warp and weft wet from cotton is not good following the requirements. Weft dry from cotton is also not good following the requirements. Looking at lyocell you can see that only the weft wet is 3 instead of 3/4 which means a bit worse then the requirements. But al the others are good following the requirements. Which means that for this test lyocell has a better outcome.

Experiments Per innovation/out of the box test

Stretch recovery

As for an out of the box test there was being looked at the stretch recovery.In this test we hang a piece of fabric from lyocell and cotton on the wall. With weight on it.You want your fabric to recover well. Ever have a pair of jeans that stretches out and are too baggy within a couple hours of putting on? You don’t want that. This applies also for the jogging pants. (andrea 2014)For this test we’re going to look which materials recovers the best.

For this test we use a 2 triangles 1 to hang the fabric on and 1 to hand the weight on. We fault the fabric and pin it on both sides so the triangle will stick. Then we measure the fabric in-between the 2 lines of pins. After that we will hang a weight on the bottom triangle of 1 kg and let this hang for 1 hour. After taking of the weight the fabric in between the pins will get measured again. And also after 24 hours. For safety precautions there should be a lot of pins holding the triangle otherwise the weight will fall down, or the whole fabric.

Results

- cotton: beginning: 24,5 cm stretching: 228,5 cm after 1 hour: 28 cmafter 24 hours: 25 cm

- lyocell:beginning: 24,5stretching: 29 cm after 1 hour: 27cm after 24 hours: 25,5 cm

conclusionThe lycoll fabric a stretches more when having the weight hanging on it. Seeing the end result after 24 hours you see that cotton has a better stretch recovery then lyocell. The reason for this is because the cotton fabric is better and tighter knitted and the lyocell is knitted by hand, so its more loose. This should have been a good test is the fabris were the same made. Now its not really reliable

Conclusion/Recommendation

Looking back at all the test which have been done you can see that almost all the testing had a good outcome. They almost al satisfied the requirements. Only the crocking test had a bad outcome for the cotton fabric. The tests aren’t as reliable as I hoped it to be because we couldn’t find a fabric which had the same knitting and colour, so we had to knit it ourselves. We tried to have the same weight and same thickness etc. but this was impossible because the tread was always breaking, so instead of making a single jersey, we had to make a double jersey. The test which have been done are important for testing a jogging pants. We also had the outcome of the survey in mind when choosing the right tests. There where 2 tests which we weren’t able to do because the machine was broken. In my opinion those tests were really important and it makes this quality report not finished. But looking at the results we do have, and taking the LCA in consideration we can see that the choice of using lyocell was a good decision. Lyocell had a really good outcome at all the tests. In our LCA we also made the choice to improve the dyeing, by using natural dye. The outcome of the tests from lyocell which has been dyed with our natural dye were also really good. Which means that our research about the dyeing was well done. So comparing the research done in the LCA and the outcome of the quality testing makes this material good. This makes the fabric not only sustainable but also good when looking at the quality

Looking at recommendations for the future it would be nice to find more out of the box testing for this lyocell product. It would also be a good idea to test with different dyes instead of only the naturel dye which has been used now. Also for the future its really important to test the pilling and abrasion, because those tests are also really important.

Looking back at starting with all the test I thought almost all the standard tests were important. I started with the idea of doing almost all the standard test. I also did the water and oil test, but this is not important for a jogging pants. So I tried to decrease the amount of tests because a lot were not of interest for this product and I focused on the test which were important. Looking at the amount of tests done its not a lot but these tests are the most important and from my opinion the other tests are not.

References

Bibliographyandrea. sewtorial. 18 03 2014. http://gotosew.com/2014/03/determining-fabric-stretch-recovery/.BENSON. orient. 26 09 2016. http://www.orientbag.net/single-post/2016/09/26/Color-Fastness-to-CrockingRubbing-Test-ISO-105-X12-With-Video (accessed 09 26, 2016).Committee, Technical. ISO. 09 1994. https://www.iso.org/standard/21988.html.