Vietnam

Iain Stewart,Brett Atkinson, Austin Bush, David Eimer, Nick Ray, Phillip Tang

#_

#̂

#̂

Hanoip58

NorthernVietnam

p99

CentralVietnam

p146

SouthwestHighlands

p282Southeast

Coastp221

MekongDeltap354

Siem Reap & theTemples of Angkor

(Cambodia)p401

Ho ChiMinh Cityp306

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Welcome to Vietnam . . . . 4

Vietnam Map . . . . . . . . . . . .6

Vietnam’s Top 20 . . . . . . . .8

Need to Know . . . . . . . . . .18

First Time Vietnam . . . . . 20

What’s New . . . . . . . . . . . 22

If You Like . . . . . . . . . . . . 23

Month by Month . . . . . . . 25

Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 28

Outdoor Activities . . . . . 36

Eat & Drink Like a Local . . . . . . . . . . . 43

Regions at a Glance . . . . 54

HANOI . . . . . . . . . . . . 58Around Hanoi . . . . . . . . . 96

Tam Dao Hill Station . . . . . .97

NORTHERN VIETNAM . . . . . . . . . . 99Northeast Vietnam . . . . 102Ba Be National Park . . . . 102Haiphong . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103Halong Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . 106Bai Tu Long Bay . . . . . . . . .117Mong Cai & the Chinese Border . . . . . . . . . 119Northwest Vietnam . . . 123Hoa Binh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123Mai Chau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124Son La . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125Dien Bien Phu . . . . . . . . . . 126Muong Te & Na Hu . . . . . . 129Sinho . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130Sapa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130Lao Cai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137Bac Ha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138Ha Giang Province . . . . . . 141

CENTRAL VIETNAM . . . . . . . . . 146North-Central Vietnam . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147Ninh Binh Province . . . . . 147Vinh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park . . . . . . . . . . 154Dong Hoi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161South-Central Vietnam . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164Demilitarised Zone . . . . . . 164Dong Ha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166Hue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169Around Hue . . . . . . . . . . . . 182

Bach Ma National Park . . .185Lang Co Beach . . . . . . . . . 186Danang . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187Around Danang . . . . . . . . . 193Hoi An . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197Around Hoi An . . . . . . . . . 214My Son . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218

SOUTHEAST COAST . . . . . . . . . . . 221Quang Ngai . . . . . . . . . . . . 223Cha Ban Cham Area . . . . 225Quy Nhon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226Bai Xep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231Tuy Hoa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233Tuy Hoa to Nha Trang . . . 234Nha Trang . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236Around Nha Trang . . . . . .250Phan Rang & Thap Cham . . . . . . . . . . . .250Ninh Chu Beach . . . . . . . . 252Ca Na . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 253Mui Ne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 254Phan Thiet & Around . . . . 261Ho Coc Beach . . . . . . . . . . 262Ho Tram Beach . . . . . . . . . 263Vung Tau . . . . . . . . . . . . . .264Con Dao Islands . . . . . . . . 268

SOUTHWEST HIGHLANDS . . . . . . 282Cat Tien National Park . . . . . . . . . .284Dalat & Around . . . . . . . . . 285Lak Lake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 295Buon Ma Thuot . . . . . . . . . 295Yok Don National Park . . . . . . . . . .299Pleiku . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .300Kon Tum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 301

ON THE ROAD

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PLAN YOUR TRIP

Contents

HO CHI MINH CITY . . . . . . . . . . . . . 306Around Ho Chi Minh City . . . . . . . . . . . . 347Cu Chi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .348Tay Ninh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 351Can Gio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 352

MEKONG DELTA . . . 354My Tho . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 357Ben Tre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 359Tra Vinh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 361Vinh Long . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 363Can Tho & Around . . . . . . 365Soc Trang . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 370Ca Mau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 371Rach Gia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 373

Phu Quoc Island . . . . . . . . 375Ha Tien . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .386Around Ha Tien . . . . . . . . .388Hon Chong . . . . . . . . . . . .390Chau Doc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 391Sam Mountain . . . . . . . . .394Long Xuyen . . . . . . . . . . . .396Cao Lanh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 397Around Cao Lanh . . . . . . .399Sa Dec . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .400

SIEM REAP & THE TEMPLES OF ANGKOR . . . . . . . 401Siem Reap . . . . . . . . . . . . .402Temples of Angkor . . . . . . 410

Vietnam Today . . . . . . . 428

History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 430

People & Culture . . . . . 448

Arts & Architecture . . . 454

Environment . . . . . . . . . 458

Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . 466

Transport . . . . . . . . . . . . 476

Health . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 486

Language . . . . . . . . . . . . 491

Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 500

Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . 509KH

AN

G D

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/500

PX ©

DALAT P285

UNDERSTAND

SPECIAL FEATURESVietnam Outdoors . . . . . 36

Eat & Drink Like a Local . . . . . . . . . . . 43

Hue Imperial Enclosure in 3D . . . . . . .174

Angkor Wat in 3D . . . . . 414

Scenes of Vietnam . . . . 421

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Plan Your Trip

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This itinerary takes in a lovely offshore island blessed with wonderful sandy bays, the nation’s main watersport centre and some fascinating floating villages. If tropical sunsets and white-sand beaches are high on your agenda it’s probably best not to plan this trip during the southern rainy season (roughly May to October). There’s frequent public transport to virtually all the main places.

After a couple of days enjoying the urban delights and compelling energy of HCMC, head into the Mekong Delta, stopping at Ben Tre to explore canalside lanes by bike and islands by boat. Then hop on-board a cargo ship for a slow, scenic journey to Tra Vinh and take in the town’s colourful pago-das. Next it’s a short trip to Can Tho where it’s worth lingering a couple of days to visit the bustling floating markets, the city muse-um and a temple or two. Then head to Phu Quoc Island for three days of well-earned beach time on some of Vietnam’s best sandy shores and seafood feasts at night.

2 WEEKS

28 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Cai Rang Floating Market, (p365) Can Tho

From Phu Quoc, fly (or bus it) back to HCMC, then head north into the south-central highlands via a night in Cat Tien National Park, home to gibbons, crocodiles and bountiful bird life. Next up it’s the romantic hill station of Dalat for a tour of its quirky sights, and the op-portunity to get stuck into some adventure sports such as canyoning, mountain biking or kayaking.

The road trip from Dalat down to Mui Ne is one of the nation’s finest, negotiat-ing highland ridges and plunging through

valleys and pine forests; it’s ideally done on the back of a motorbike (consider hiring an Easy Rider). You can then rest up by the beach in Mui Ne for two or three days – a tropical idyll with towering sand dunes and a laid-back vibe – or for those with the stamina, get stuck into some crazy kite-surfing or a sailing course.

Round the trip off in style with a night in HCMC, perhaps with a meal in Quan Bui followed by drinks somewhere atmos-pheric such as Heritage Republic, which is open around the clock.

PLAN YO

UR TRIP ItIn

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This route covers the nation’s essential cultural sights and is bookended by its two greatest cities. You’ll have an opportunity for some beach time, too. Definitely consider taking internal flights (or overnight trains) to save time.

The adventure begins in the cauldron of com-merce that is Ho Chi Minh City. Spend two to three days hitting the markets, browsing muse-ums and eating some of Asia’s best cuisine.

Then it’s a plane or train up to Danang to access the cultured charmer and culinary hot spot that is Hoi An. This town certainly war-rants three or four days, such is its allure. Enjoy Hoi An’s unique ambience, touring its temples and Old Town, and visit the nearby beach of An Bang. Then it’s on to the old imperial capital of Hue for two to three nights to explore the cita-del, pagodas and tombs (and nearby beaches, in season).

Next it’s a long journey by train (or a flight) to Hanoi to check out the capital’s evocative Old Quarter, munch some street food and view the city’s elegant architecture and cultural sights. From Hanoi book a tour to incompa-rable Halong Bay, which boasts more than 2000 limestone islands, before returning to Hanoi.

2 WEEKS From South to North

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31PLAN

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Northern Vietnam is a world unto itself: a land of brooding mountains, overwhelming beauty and a mosaic of ethnic minorities. It’s ideal terrain to cover on two wheels, with light traffic and breathtaking views, though, with a patient attitude, most of the region can be tackled by public transport.

Leaving Hanoi, head west to Mai Chau, home to the White Thai people, for your first two nights; it’s a perfect introduction to ethnic minority life. Northwest, where the road begins to climb into the Tonkinese Alps, a logical over-night stop is Son La, a sleepy town with a good spread of restaurants serving minority dishes.

Continue on for two nights at Dien Bien Phu, a name that resonates with history as it was here that the French colonial story ended in defeat. Tour the military sights and impres-sive new museum then continue north through stunning scenery up the Tram Ton Pass. If you’re looking to get off the beaten track, con-sider a one- or two-night detour to Muong Te, a predominately White Thai enclave in the coun-try’s northwesternmost corner.

Sapa is the premier destination in the north-west, thanks to the infinite views (on a clear day!), and an amazing array of minority peo-ples. Explore the area on two feet or two wheels for around four days before heading to Bac Ha for three nights to experience the best of the region’s markets. Most colourful are the Flower Hmong people.

From Bac Ha, move east to Ha Giang prov-ince, taking it slowly through stunning scenery and towns including Yen Minh, Dong Van and Meo Vac. Explore remote destinations such as the Lung Cu flag tower and the Vuong Palace from Dong Van. Onwards towards the vertigi-nous Mai Pi Leng Pass and Meo Vac, there’s no public transport (so you’ll need to hire a xe om or car). The route then loops down to the river-side junction town of Bao Lac.

Local buses run from Bao Lac to Cao Bang and on to Ba Be National Park. Spend about three nights around Ba Be, staying at local Tay homestays, and exploring the park by trekking or kayaking. From Ba Be travel back to Cao Bang for the trip back south to Hanoi.

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35PLAN

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SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed-back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

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498498

OUR READERSMany thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Alexander Edwards, Alison Westwood, Andrew Lee, Andy Osment, Anjeela Naran, Anthony Marx, Arratee Ayuttacorn, Chris den Engelsman, Chun-Yu Shih, Daisy Morgan, David Hagen, David Zaitegui, Debbie Jackson, Denis Arcand, Dustin Gerding, Eline Smet, Federico Pesce, Gitte Hansen, Gregory Kipling, Lucy Guiollot, Hanna van Zutphen, Hugo Macklin, Ilona Osterkamp-Weber, Jack Neilson, Jeen Zimmer, Jill Sculerati, Kai Dennis, Kara Chan, Karen Leonard, Kathy Boutos, Kato De Graeve, Laura Fox, Linda Byrnes, Maelle Planchenault, Manuela Arigoni, Marthe de Bruine, Melanie Scheuber, Nelly Kurz, Nissaf Sghaier, Noelia Iglesias, Pedro Marin Álvarez, Peter Holnback, Robert van Weperen, Stanley Stork, Steph Goodey, Tom Fulham, Tung Le, Wayne Murray.

WRITER THANKSIain StewartI was lucky to have a wonderful research trip along Vietnam’s stunning coastline. Thanks to Mark, Lu and Matt Cowan in Saigon, Caroline Mills, Neil Fraser and Travis in Hoi An, team Nha Trang and Grazina, Thomas and Julia. My appreciation as well to Laura Crawford and my co-authors.

Brett AtkinsonIt’s always a thrill and pleasure to return to one of my favourite countries, and my thanks go to Mark Zazula in HCMC, Ben, Bich, Seamus and the gang in Phong Nha, and the Hoi An crew of Neil, Caroline, Mark and Leanne. Cheers also to Tam in Dong Ha and Sy in Dong Hoi, and it was great for my wife Carol to finally meet my good friend Kien and his family in Hanoi.

Austin BushI’m grateful for all the wonderful people on the ground in northern Vietnam, but my trip was made especially easier and more enjoyable by Mr Tung at Cat Ba Ventures, James and Mr Minh at Vision Travel, and the villagers of Na Hu, as well as my helpful Destination Editor, Laura Crawford.

David EimerSpecial thanks to Curtis, Thuy, Le and Thuan for the nights out in Dalat and their sound local advice. Thanks also to Laura Crawford, Iain Stewart and all the LP crew. As ever, much gratitude to everyone I met on the road who passed on tips, whether know-ingly or unwittingly.

Nick RayA huge and heartfelt thanks to the people of Cam-bodia, whose warmth and humour, stoicism and spirit make it such a fascinating place to live. Biggest

Behind the Scenes

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E SCENES

thanks are reserved for my lovely wife Kulikar Sotho and our children Julian and Belle, as without their support and encouragement the adventures would not be possible. Thanks also to Mum and Dad for giving me a taste for travel from a young age.

Phillip TangMany thanks to the Vietnamese people and friends, especially Pham Hoang Manh in Hanoi; Nam, Tri and Liam Le in Saigon; Mr The for Ha Tien and Hon Chong; Nghiem Nguyen and Anthony in Can Tho; and Phuc Anh for the adventure to Tra Vinh. Thank

you Laura Crawford for having me on board again. Thanks to Daniel Belfield for dressing gowns, bao, cocktails and xe om teaming.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrol-ogy and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344.Cover photograph: Bundles of incense, Vietnam/Getty ©

THIS BOOKThis 14th edition of Lonely Planet’s Vietnam guidebook was curated by Iain Stewart and researched and written by Iain, Brett Atkinson, Austin Bush, David Eimer, Nick Ray and Phillip Tang.

This guidebook was produced by the following:Destination Editor Laura CrawfordProduct Editor Heather ChampionSenior Cartographer Diana von HoldtBook Designer Gwen CotterAssisting Editors Michelle

Coxall, Carly Hall, Alex Knights, Helen Koehne, Kate Morgan, Christopher Pitts, Gabrielle StefanosAssisting Cartographers Rachel Imeson, James LevershaCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Kate Chapman, Sandie Kestell, Jessica Ryan

500

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

Aaccommodation 21, 22,

466-7activities 22, 36-42, see also

individual activitiesair travel

airlines 476airports 476to/from Vietnam 476within Vietnam 479

American War 16, 440-5, 455

Anzac sites 266environmental

impacts 463My Lai Massacre 224unexploded ordnance

(UXO) 164, 471amusement parks 72An Bang Beach 214-16,

423, 422An Binh 363An Thoi Islands 377-8Angkor temple complex

16, 401, 410-20, 402, 411, 414-415, 17, 414

highlights 402itineraries 412, 414-415

Angkor Thom 413-16, 415Angkor Wat 56, 410-13,

17, 414animals 459-60, see also

wildlife sanctuaries & reserves, individual species

antiques 343, 471Anzac sites 266architecture 23, 456-7area codes 19, 472arts 90, 454-6ATMs 470

BBa Be Lake 102Ba Be National Park 14,

102-3, 14Ba Le Well 202Ba Na Hill Station 197 Bac Ha 138-41, 139, 24Bac Lieu Bird

Sanctuary 365Bach Ma National Park

185-6Bach Ma Temple 61, 276Bahnar villages 304Bai Dai Beach 250Bai Mon 235Bai Tu Long Bay 117-19, 107Bai Xep 231-3, 423ballooning 22, 42, 254banh cuon 49, 48banh mi 45, 335, 45banh xeo 51, 52Bao Lac 145bargaining 21, 467bathrooms 472Bau Truc Village 251-2Bayon 413, 415beaches 24, 40, 423

An Bang Beach 214-16, 432, 422

Bai Dai Beach 250Cat Ba Island 111Cham Islands 217Co To Island 117Cua Dai Beach 214Dai Lanh Beach 234Danang Beach 193-6Doc Let Beach 234Ho Coc Beach 262-3Ho Tram Beach 263Hon Chong 390Hue 185Lang Co Beach 186-7Mui Nai 390Mui Ne 254Nha Trang 236

Ninh Chu Beach 252-3

Phu Quoc Island 377, 379, 380

Quan Lan Island 118 Quang Ngai 223Quy Nhon 226, 228-9Van Don Island 119

beer 11, 22, 51, 85Ben Hai River 165Ben Tre 359-60, 361, 360bia hoi 85bicycle travel, see cyclingbird flu 487birds 460birdwatching

Bac Lieu Bird Sanctuary 365

Bach Ma National Park 186

Siem Reap 405Yok Don National Park 299

Bitexco Financial Tower 312boat travel

to/from Vietnam 477, 479within Vietnam 480

boat tripsCat Ba Island 112Halong Bay 108Halong City 115Ho Chi Minh City 323Mui Ne 254My Tho 357Ngo Dong River 150-1Nha Trang 242, 243Phu Quoc Island 380Vinh Long 363

books 428, 449, 455American War 440, 443,

444, 446history 432

border crossings 477, 479, 478

Buddha’s Birth, Enlightenment & Death (Phong Sinh) 26

Buddhism 433, 452Buon Ma Thuot 295-8, 296bus travel

to/from Vietnam 477-8within Vietnam 480-1

business hours 470

CCa Mau 371-3, 372 Ca Na 253Cai Rang Floating

Market 365, 29Cai Rong 119Cam Kim Island 202Cambodia border

crossings 479Chau Doc 393, 395Ha Tien 389Ho Chi Minh City 345Pleiku 299

Can Gio 352-3Can Tho 365-70, 366, 29

accommodation 368-9food 369shopping 370sights 365-7tours 367tourist information 370travel to/from 370

canyoning 42Cao Bang 121-2, 145, 121Cao Daism 322, 453Cao Lanh 397-9, 398car travel

to/from Vietnam 477within Vietnam 481-3

Cat Ba Island 92, 109-15, 423, 110, 423

accommodation 112-14activities 111drinking & nightlife 114food 114sights 109-11tours 111-12tourist information 114

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DEX C

-F travel to/from 114-15travel within 115

Cat Ba National Park 110-11Cat Tien National Park 12,

284-5, 12 cathedrals, see churches caves 10, 425, 424-5

Hang Dau Go 106, 109Hang En 156, 421Hang Son Doong 156Hang Sung Sot 109Hang Thien Cung 109Hang Tien 156-7Hang Toi (Dark Cave)

10, 156Hang Trong 109Hang Trung Trang 110-11Hang Va 157Hua Ma Cave 102Mua Cave 150Nguom Ngao Cave 122-3Nhi Thanh Cave 120Paradise Cave 10, 157, 10Phong Nha Cave 157Tam Thanh Cave 120Trang An 149-50Tu Lan Cave 156

caving 42cell phones 18, 472cemeteries

Dien Bien Phu Cemetery 127-8

Hang Duong Cemetery 270

Truong Son National Cemetery 166

central Vietnam 55, 146-220, 147

accommodation 146climate 146food 146highlights 147travel seasons 146

Cha Ban Cham Area 225

Cham Islands 216-18Cham Kate Festival 252Champa 220Chau Doc 391-4, 392chikungunya 487children, travel with 467

Hanoi 92Ho Chi Minh City 341

China 91, 429China border crossings 479

Lang Son 123Lao Cai 138Mong Cai 119-20

Christianity 453churches

Cha Tam Church 320-1Chapel 196Dalat Cathedral 288Danang Cathedral 190Immaculate Conception

Cathedral 302Nha Trang Cathedral 240Notre Dame Cathedral

307, 312Phat Diem Cathedral 151Queen of the Rosary

Cathedral 104Sapa Church 132St Joseph Cathedral 65Tam Toa Church 161Ton Dao Cathedral 151

Churning of the Ocean of Milk 413, 417

cinema 428, 436, 447, 455, 456,

cinemasHanoi 87Ho Chi Minh City 342

cities 426climate 18, 37, 467Coconut Monk 357coffee 15, 25, 45, 51-2, 86,

288, 15, 53Co To Island 117-18Con Dao Islands 14,

268-75, 269, 14Con Son 22Con Son Town 270-5consulates 468cooking courses

Hanoi 72-3Ho Chi Minh City 324Hoi An 210Mui Ne 256-7Sapa 133Siem Reap 403, 405Yok Don National

Park 299courses, see also cooking

courses, individual locations

art 72, 133language 72-3, 324

craft beer 22Crocodile Lake 284Cu Chi 348-50Cu Chi Tunnels 16, 349-

50, 16Cua Dai Beach 214Cuc Phuong National

Park 151-4culture 448-53

currency 18curry 47cycling 37, 38, 479-80

Hanoi 97, 38cyclos 25

DDai Lanh Beach 234Dalat 16, 285-94, 286, 16

accommodation 290-2climate 282drinking & nightlife 293entertainment 293-4festivals & events 290food 292-3history 285-6sights 286-9tours 289tourist information 294travel to/from 294travel within 294

Danang 187-93, 188, 194, 426

accommodation 190-1drinking & nightlife 192festivals & events 190food 191-2history 188-9sights 189-90tours 190tourist information 192-3travel to/from 193travel within 193

Danang Beach 193-6, 194Danang International

Fireworks Festival 25-6, 190, 26

dance 454dangers, see safetyde Rhodes, Alexandre 435Demilitarised Zone (DMZ)

16, 164-6, 166dengue 487diarrhoea 489Dien Bien Phu 16, 126-9,

127, 32Dien Tho Residence 173, 174disabilities, travellers with

472-3diving 37, 40

Cham Islands 216Con Dao Islands 273Hoi An 204Nha Trang 241-3Phu Quoc Island 380

Doc Let Beach 234Dong Ha 166-9Dong Ho 386

Dong Hoi 22, 161-4, 162Dong Van 143-4Dragon Bridge 189, 426dragon fruit 260Dragon Island 359dress 20drinks 11, 45, 51-2, 140, 11,

15, 53driving, see car travelDuong Dong 377, 378Duyen Hai 353

Eeconomy 428electricity 467elephants 460, 464embassies 468emergencies 19, 469environment 458-64environmental issues 375,

428-9, 462-4ethnic minorities 450-1etiquette 20, 449, 450,

469temples 412

exchange rates 19

FFairy Spring 254Father & Son Isle 390festivals & events

Buddha’s Birth, Enlightenment and Death (Phong Sinh) 26

Buon Ma Thuot Coffee Festival 25

Cham Kate Festival 27Children’s (or Mid-

Autumn) Festival 27Christmas Day

(Giang Sinh) 27Dalat Flower Festival 25Danang International

Fireworks Festival 25-6, 190, 26

food 44Hanoi Pride 27Holiday of the Dead

(Thanh Minh) 26Hue festival 26, 177Khmer Oc Bom Boc

Festival 27Mid-Autumn Festival

(Trung Thu) 27Nha Trang Sea

Festival 27Quang Trung 25Saigon Cyclo

Challenge 25

502

IND

EX C-L

festivals & events continued

Summer Solstice Day (Tet Doan Ngo) 27

Tet (Tet Nguyen Dan) 25, 452, 26

Vietnam National Day 27Wandering Souls Day

(Trung Nguyen) 27film 428, 436, 447,

455, 456Fish Sauce Factory 377floating houses 391floating markets 368

Cai Rang 365, 29Chau Doc 391Phong Dien 367

food 9, 21, 22, 23, 43-51, 8-9, 46, 47, 48, 52, see also cooking courses, individual locations

banh mi 45, 45dragon fruit 260festivals 44food tours 50, 50pho 49, 8, 48regional specialities 45,

47, 49, 51, 208, 210, 259, 335

royal rice cakes 180street food 22, 44, 82,

246, 43vegetarian & vegan 44-5

Ggalleries, see museums &

galleriesGanh Da Dia 231gardens, see parks &

gardensgay travellers 27, 456,

469-70Hanoi 87Ho Chi Minh City 344

geography 458-9geology 112, 458-9golf

Mui Ne 256Vung Tau 264

HHa Giang Province 12, 141-

5, 12, 32-3Ha Giang Town 141-2

Ha Tien 386-8, 387 Hai Van Pass 187Hai Van Tunnel 187 Haiphong 103-6, 104Halls of the Mandarins

173, 175Halong Bay 10, 106-16, 107,

10, 31, 36environmental

issues 461Halong City 115-16, 116Hang En 156, 421Hang Nga Crazy

House 286-7Hang Son Doong 156Hang Toi (Dark Cave)

10, 156Hanoi 14, 22, 54, 58-96,

59, 62-3, 66-7, 70, 73, 74-5, 14, 276-7

accommodation 58, 77-81activities 71-2children, travel with 92climate 58courses 72-3curfews 84drinking

& nightlife 85-7festivals & events 77food 58, 81-5highlights 59, 59history 60itineraries 61safety 90shopping 89-90sights 60-71tours 73-7tourist information 90-2travel seasons 58travel to/from 92-5travel within 95-6walking tours 76, 76

Hanoi Ceramic Mosaic Mural 62

health 486-90insurance 486vaccinations 488water 487websites 486

hepatitis A 487hepatitis B 487highlands 425, 425hiking, see trekkingHinduism 453historic buildings & sites

Angkor Conservation 403Assembly Hall of the

Cantonese Chinese Congregation 203

Assembly Hall of the Chaozhou Chinese Congregation 202

Assembly Hall of the Hainan Chinese Congregation 202

Ben Dinh 350Ben Duoc 350Cannon Fort 109-10Central Post Office 312Chinese All-Community

Assembly Hall 203-4Co Loa Citadel 97Cow Shed 272Crémaillère Railway

Station 287Cu Chi Tunnels 16, 349-

50, 16Dien Bien Phu 16, 126-9,

127, 32Diep Dong Nguyen

House 204Dong Hoi Citadel

Gates 161French Fort 143Hamburger Hill 165-6Hanoi Opera House 69Heritage House 61Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum

Complex 66-8Ho Chi Minh Pilgrimage

Spots 154Ho Quyen 184Hospital Cave 111Huynh Thuy Le Old

House 400Imperial Citadel of Thang

Long 68Khe Sanh Combat

Base 165Nam Giao Esplanade

184-5National School 176Opera House 104People’s Committee

Building 312-13, 457, 281

Phoenix Island Sanctuary 357

Phu Binh Camp 271Phu Hai Prison 270Phung Hung Old

House 202Quan Thang House 203Quang Tri 165Quy Hoa Beach & Leper

Hospital 226-8Reunification

Palace 313-15, 281Rockpile 166Tan Ky House 201

Thanh Citadel 250Tiger Cages 270Tran Duong House 203Tran Family Chapel 202Vinh Moc Tunnels

164-5, 167Vua Meo 138Vung Tau 16Vuong Palace 142-3

history 430-47American War 16, 440-5,

455China relations 446-7Chinese occupation

432, 433communism 436first inhabitants 431-2French occupation 435-7independence 433Khmer Rouge 446-7reunification 445-6Tay Son Rebellion 434-5Viet Cong (VC) 440war history 16, 23WWII 437

HIV 487Hmong people 451, 24Ho Chi Minh 66-8, 438, 439Ho Chi Minh City 11, 55,

306-47, 308-9, 310, 314, 317, 319, 329, 348, 11, 30-1, 280-1

accommodation 306, 325-31

activities 323-4children, travel with 341climate 306courses 324drinking & nightlife

338-41entertainment 341-2festivals & events 325food 22, 306, 331-8highlights 308-9history 307itineraries 307safety 344shopping 342-4sights 307-23tours 324-5tourist information

344-5travel seasons 306travel to/from 345-6travel within 346-7

Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum Complex 66-8, 277

Ho Chi Minh Trail 296-7Ho Coc Beach 262-3

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

503IN

DEX H

-L Ho Tram Beach 263Hoa Binh 123-4Hoa Hao Buddhism 453Hoan Kiem Lake 63Hoi An 9, 197-214, 198-9,

9, 278-9accommodation 206-7activities 204cooking courses210, 51drinking & nightlife

210-11festivals & events 206food 208-10history 197-9safety 213shopping 211-13sights 199-204tailors 212tours 205, 210travel to/from 213-14travel within 214

holidays 470-1homestays 367Hon Chong 390Hon Giang 388hot-air ballooning 22,

42, 254Hue 11, 169-82, 170-1,

183, 11accommodation 177-9climate 146drinking & nightlife 180-1festivals & events 26, 177food 179-80history 169Imperial Enclosure 172-6shopping 181sights 169-76tours 177tourist information 181travel to/from 181-2travel within 182

Hue After Dark 22Hue Festival 26, 177

Iimmigration 476Imperial Enclosure

(Hue) 172-6insurance

car 469health 468travle 469

internet access 469internet resources 19Islam 453islands 423itineraries 28-35, 50

JJade Emperor Pagoda

316, 280Japanese B encephalitis 487Japanese Covered

Bridge 201, 279Jarai people 300, 304, 451jeep tours 22Jun 295

KKarst Mountains 108,

425, 424kayaking & SUP 37, 42, 36

Cat Ba Island 111Hoi An 204

Khmer Rouge 446-7kitesurfing 40

Mui Ne 17, 256, 17Ninh Chu Beach 252

Kon Harachot 304Kon Ktu 304Kon Tum 22, 301-5, 425,

302, 425Kon Tum Konam 304Kon Tum Kopong 304

LLak Lake 295Lan Ha Bay 109Lang Co Beach 186-7Lang Son 120-1language 18, 21, 491-7language courses

Hanoi 72-3Ho Chi Minh City 324

Lao Cai 137-8Laos border

crossings 479Dien Bien Phu 129Dong Ha 168Kon Tum 305Vinh 153

Lat Village 289laundry 468Le 295Le Loi 433-4 legal matters 469lesbian travellers 27, 456,

469-70Hanoi 87Ho Chi Minh City 344

lighthousesKe Ga Lighthouse 261Vung Tau

Lighthouse 264literature 455-6, see also

books

live musicHanoi 87-8Ho Chi Minh City 341-2

Long Bien Bridge 61-2Long Hai 262Long Xuyen 396-7, 397Lung Cam 143Lung Cu 143, 32

Mmagazines 468Mai Chau 22, 124-5Mai Pi Leng Pass 141, 12malaria 487Marble Mountains 195markets 13, 23, 13, see also

floating marketsBac Ha 138, 140-1, 24Ca Mau 371Dong Van 143Hanoi 62, 89-90Ho Chi Minh City 318-19Hue 176Meo Vac 145Mui Ne 254Sapa 130, 132Siem Reap 409Sinho 130Son La 126Vinh Long 363

Martyrs’ Monument 65, 276

massagesHanoi 72Ho Chi Minh City 323-4Mui Ne 256Phong Nha-Ke Bang

National Park 157Siem Reap 403

measles 488measures 468medical services 486-7Mekong Delta 56, 354-

400, 355accommodation 354climate 354food 354highlights 355history 356travel seasons 354travel to/within 356

Mekong River 384memorials

French War Memorial 128Son My Memorial 223Venerable Thich Quang

Duc Memorial 316War Memorial (233

Meo Vac 145metro 95M’lieng 295mobile phones 18, 472money 18, 21, 467, 470, 471Mong Cai 119-20monkeys 352monuments, see statues &

monumentsmosques

Chau Doc 391Ho Chi Minh City 313,

321motorcycle travel

to/from Vietnam 477within Vietnam 38-9,

481-3, 39mountain biking, see also

cyclingCat Ba Island 111Phong Nha-Ke Bang

National Park 158Mui Nai 390

Mui Ne 17, 254-61, 255accommodation 257-8activities 254-6courses 256-7drinking & nightlife 260festivals & events 257food 258-60shopping 260sights 254tourist information 260-1 travel to/from 261travel within 261

Muong people 451Muong Te 129-30Muong Thanh Bridge 128museums & galleries

Alexandre Yersin Museum 238-9

An Giang Museum 396Angkor National

Museum 402Artisans Angkor - Les

Chantiers Écoles 402-3

Bao Tang Con Dao Museum 270

Bao Tang Quang Tri 167Binh Dinh Museum 228Cambolac 403Can Tho Museum 365Cham Cultural

Centre 251Coi Nguon Museum 379Cu Chi War History

Museum 350Dien Bien Phu

Museum 127

504

IND

EX M- P

museums & galleries continued

Dong Thap Museum 397-8

Ethnographic Museum 295

Factory, The 323Fine Arts Museum

(Ho Chi Minh City) 312Fine Arts Museum of

Vietnam (Hanoi) 65General Museum

Complex 176Gia Lai Museum 300Haiphong Museum 104History Museum 318Ho Chi Minh Museum

(Danang) 190Ho Chi Minh Museum

(Hanoi) 67 Ho Chi Minh Museum

(Ho Chi Minh City) 312

Ho Chi Minh Museum (Hue) 176

Ho Chi Minh Trail Museum 97

Hoa Lo Prison Museum 63

Hoi An Museum of History & Culture 204

Khmer Minority People’s Museum 361

Kien Giang Museum 373Lam Dong Museum 288Long Thanh Gallery 239Mai Loc Gallery 239MGC Asian Traditional

Textiles Museum 403Mine Action Visitor

Centre 167Museum of Cham

Sculpture 189Museum of Folklore in

Hoi An 203Museum of Sa Huynh

Culture & Museum of the Revolution 203

Museum of Trading Ceramics 203

Museum of Traditional Vietnamese Medicine 323

Museum of Vietnamese Revolution 65

National Museum of Vietnamese History 63-4

National Oceanographic Museum 240

Old French Prison & Museum 125-6

Phu Quoc Prison 379Quang Trung Museum 225Revolutionary

Museum 272Robert Taylor Museum

of Worldwide Arms, The 264

Royal Fine Arts Museum 176

Salon Saigon 315San Art 318Sapa Museum 130Seminary & Hill-Tribe

Museum 302-3Ton Duc Thang

Museum 396Vietnam Military History

Museum 65Vietnam Museum of

Ethnology 69Vietnamese Women’s

Museum 64War Remnants

Museum 313White Villa 264

music 454My Lai Massacre 224My Son 218-20, 219, 24My Tho 357-9, 358mythology 112

NNa Hu 129-30national parks & reserves

460-1Ba Be National Park 14,

102-3, 14Ba Vi National Park 96-7Bach Ma National Park

185-6Bidoup Nui Ba National

Park 288Cat Ba National Park

110-11Cat Tien National Park

12, 284-5, 12Cuc Phuong National

Park 151-4Phong Nha-Ke Bang

National Park 10, 154-61, 425, 155, 10, 421, 424-5

Phu Quoc National Park 379

Tam Dao National Park 98

Vam Sat 353

Van Long Nature Reserve 149

Yok Don National Park 299-300

newspapers 468Nghe Islands 388Ngo Mon Gateway 175, 175Nguyen Trai 433Nha Trang 236-50, 423,

237, 238, 422accommodation 243-5activities 240-3drinking & nightlife

247-8festivals & events 27food 245-7safety 248shopping 248-9sights 236-40tours 243tourist information 249travel to/from 249-50travel within 250

Nine Dynastic Urns 176, 174

Ninh Binh City 147-9, 150Ninh Binh Province 147-54Ninh Chu Beach 252-3Ninh Van Bay 234-5Nixon, Richard 443-4north-central

Vietnam 147-64, 148northeast Vietnam 102-23northern Vietnam 54, 99-

145, 100-1accommodation 99climate 99food 99highlights 100-1travel seasons 99

northwest Vietnam 123-45Nui Son Tra 196Nung people 451

OOc-Eo 396, 430One Pillar Pagoda of Thu

Duc 351Ong Temple 365opening hours 470

Ppagodas 457, see

also tombs & templesAng Pagoda 361Bao Quoc Pagoda 176Bich Dong Pagoda 150Cavern Pagoda 394-5

Chuc Thanh Pagoda 203Dieu De National

Pagoda 176Dong Huong Pagoda 151Du Hang Pagoda 103-4Giac Lam Pagoda 322-3Giac Vien Pagoda 321-2Hang Cave Pagoda 390Hang Pagoda 361Ho Quoc Pagoda 379 Hoi Tinh Pagoda 254Jade Emperor

Pagoda 316-18Kampong Ksan 361Khanh Van Nam Vien

Pagoda 320Linh Quang Pagoda 288Linh Son Pagoda 288Long Son Pagoda 237Mahatup Pagoda 371Munireangsey

Pagoda 366Nghia An Hoi Quan

Pagoda 321One Pillar Pagoda of Thu

Duc 351Ong Bon Pagoda 321Ong Met Pagoda 361Ong Pagoda 361Perfume Pagoda 96Phac Hat Pagoda 204Phap Lam Pagoda 190Phu Dung Pagoda 386Phung Son Pagoda 322Phuoc An Hoi Quan

Pagoda 319-20Phuoc Lam Pagoda

202-3Phuoc Thien Pagoda 254Pitu Kohsa Rangsay

Pagoda 365Quan Am Pagoda 320Quan Lan Pagoda 118 Quang Cong Pagoda 252Tam Bao Pagoda 386Tam Son Hoi Quan

Pagoda 321Tay An Pagoda 395Tay Phuong Pagoda 96Thach Dong Cave

Pagoda 386Thay Pagoda 96Thien Hau Pagoda 320Thien Mu Pagoda 182Truc Lam Pagoda 287-8Tu Hieu Pagoda 184Van Son Temple 270-1Vinh Trang Pagoda 357Xa Loi Pagoda 315-16Xa Lon Pagoda 370

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

505IN

DEX Q

-T painting 455Pan Hou Ecolodge 144Paradise Cave 10, 157, 10parks & gardens 426

30 Thang 4 Park 391Botanic Gardens (Ho Chi

Minh City) 318Dalat Flower

Gardens 288Senteurs d’Angkor

Botanic Garden 403Tao Dan Park 316Van Thanh Mieu 397

passports 473-4, 476pedestrianisation 429People’s Committee

Building 312-13, 457, 281

Phan Rang 250-2Phan Thiet 261-2Phat Diem 151Phnom Kulen 419-20pho 49, 8, 48Phong Dien Floating

Market 367Phong Nha-Ke Bang

National Park 10, 154-61, 425, 155, 10, 421, 424-5

photography 470Phu Quoc Island 13, 22,

375-86, 376, 13accommodation 380-2activities 380drinking & nightlife

383-4food 382-3history 375shopping 385sights 377-80tours 380tourist information 385travel to/from 385travel within 385-6

Phu Quoc National Park 379

Pirate Island 388-9planning, see also

individual regionsbudgeting 18-19calendar of events 25-7children, travel with 467internet resources 19itineraries 28-35packing 20repeat visitors 22travel seasons 18-19Vietnam basics 18-19,

20-1Vietnam’s regions 54-6

Pleiku 300-1poaching 464population 429postal services 470public holidays 470-1puppetry 455Preah Khan 417, 415Preah Neak Poan 412, 415

QQuan Ba Pass 12, 143Quan Lan Island 118-19Quang Ngai 223-5Quy Nhon 226-31, 227

Rrabies 488rafting 42Rach Gia 373-5, 374religion 429, 452-3reserves, see national

parks & reservesReunification Palace

313-16, 281rhinos 462rice 49rivers 426rock climbing42

Cat Ba Island 112royal rice cakes 180

SSa Dec 400, 400safety 471

Hanoi 90hiking 38Ho Chi Minh City 344Hoi An 213Nha Trang 248unexploded

ordnance (UXO) 164, 471

Saigon, see Ho Chi Minh City

sailing 40Sam Mountain 394-6saola 460Sapa 15, 130-7, 131,

5, 15accommodation 133-5activities 130-3courses 133drinking & nightlife 136food 135-6shopping 136sights 130-3tourist information 136tours 133

travel to/from 136-7travel within 137

schistosomiasis 488-9Sedang people 304, 451shopping 471-2, see also

individual locationsSiem Reap 56, 401-10,

402, 404accommodation 406-7activities 403climate 401courses 403-5drinking & nightlife

408-9entertainment 409food 401, 407-8highlights 402shopping 409sights 402-10tourist information 410tours 405-6travel seasons 401travel to/from 410travel within 410

Sinho 130smoking 468snake wine 464snorkelling 37, 40, 41

Cham Islands 216Con Dao Islands 273Hoi An 204Nha Trang 241-3Phu Quoc Island 380

Soc Trang 370-1Son La 125-6south-central Vietnam

164-220, 165southeast coast 55, 221-75,

222accommodation 221climate 221food 221highlights 222travel seasons 221

southwest highlands 55, 282-305, 425, 283, 425

accommodation 282climate 282food 282highlights 283history 290travel seasons 282

spasAn Bang Beach 215Bai Xep 232Ho Chi Minh City 323-4Hoi An 204Mui Ne 256Nha Trang 240-1

Sapa 132Siem Reap 403

Sra Srang 418, 415statues & monuments

A1 Hill 127Buddha (Nha Trang) 240Bunker of Colonel de

Castries 128Giant Jesus 264Ho Chi Minh 109Linh Ung 196Lung Cu 143Martyrs’ Monument 65Nguyen Trung Truc

Statue 373Tran Hung Dao

Statue 240Victory Monument (Buon

Ma Thot) 296Victory Monument (Dien

Bien Phu) 128War Memorial 121

STIs 489street food 22, 44, 82,

246, 43street names 446SUP 42surfing 40

Vung Tau 264swimming

Hanoi 72Ho Chi Minh City 324Mui Ne 256Vung Tau 266

TTa Cu Mountain 262Ta Prohm 416-17, 415tailors 212 Tam Dao Hill Station 97-8Tam Hai Island 228Tam Son 142-3Taoism 452Tay Ninh 351-2Tay people 127, 451tea 51telephone services 18, 472Temple of

Literature 65, 276temples, see tombs &

templesTet (Tet Nguyen Dan) 25,

452, 26Thai Hoa Palace 173, 175Thai people 451Thanh Ha 215Thanh Toan Bridge 184Thap Cham 250-2Thap Rua 63

506

IND

EX T-Z

theatre 455Hanoi 88-9Ho Chi Minh City 312

thermal baths 240-1tigers 460time 18, 472tipping 21, 471toilets 472tombs & temples 23-4, 457,

see also pagodasAmbassadors’

Pagoda 68-9Assembly Hall of the

Fujian Chinese Con-gregation 201-2

Ba Chuc Tomb 389-90 Ba Om Pond 361 Bach Ma Temple 61Bakong 417Banh It Cham Towers 225Banteay Kdei & Sra

Srang 417Banteay Srei 418-19Baphuon 416Bayon 413Beng Mealea 419Buu Son Tu 370-1Cao Dai Holy See 351-2Cao Dai Temple 189, 372Chau Phu Temple 391Chua Bai Dinh 150Dinh Cau Temple 377Duong Long Cham

Towers 225Hai Ba Trung Temple 69Hoa Lu Temples 150Hoang Lien Mountains

(Tonkinese Alps) 425, 424

Le Van Duyet Temple 323Long Khanh Pagoda 228Mariamman Hindu

Temple 316Minh Thanh

Temple 300Ngoc Son Temple 64Ngoc Tien

Monastery 386Nguyen Trung Truc

Temple 373Nhan Cham Tower 233Nui Ba Den 352One Pillar Pagoda 68Ong Ngu 217Ong Temple 365Phnom Bakheng 416

Po Klong Garai Cham Towers 251

Po Nagar Cham Towers 236-7

Po Ro Me Cham Tower 251

Po Shanu Cham Towers 254

Pre Rup 412 Preah Khan 417Preah Neak Poan 412Preah Palilay 416Quan Cong Temple 203Quan Thanh Temple 69Ta Som 412Tay Ho Pagoda 70Temple of Lady Xu 395Temple of Literature

65, 276Thap Doi Cham

Towers 228Tomb of Gia Long 185Tomb of Khai Dinh 184Tomb of Minh

Mang 183-4Tomb of Thieu Tri 185Tomb of Thoai Ngoc

Hau 395Tomb of Tu Duc 183Tran Quoc Pagoda 71Van Thanh Mieu

Temple 363Van Thuy Tu Temple 261

Tonkinese Alps, see Hoang Lien Mountains

Tortoise Island 359tourist information 472tours 484 see also

individual locationsTra Su Bird Sanctuary 391 train travel

to/from Vietnam 477within Vietnam 484-5

Tram Ton Pass 132travel seasons 25-7, 37travel to/from

Vietnam 476-9travel within

Vietnam 38-9, 479-85Tra Vinh 361-3, 362trekking 15, 37-8

Bac Ha 138-9Bach Ma National

Park 186Cat Ba Island 111Cat Tien National

Park 284central Vietnam 38Con Dao Islands 272Cuc Phuong National

Park 152

Mai Chau 124northern Vietnam 37-8Phong Nha-Ke Bang

National Park 158Sapa 132-3southern Vietnam 38Yok Don National

Park 299Truc Bach Lake 71tuberculosis 489tunnels

Cu Chi Tunnels 16, 349-50, 16

Lon Phuoc Tunnels 266

Vinh Moc Tunnels 164-5, 167

turtles 152Tuy Hoa 233typhoid 489typhus 489

UU-Minh Forest 371unexploded ordnance

(UXO) 164, 471Unicorn Island 359

Vvacations 470-1vaccinations 488Van Don Island 119vaping 468vegetarian & vegan

travellers 44-5Viet Cong (VC) 440Viet Hai 111Vietnam basics 18-19Vinh 154Vinh Long 363-5, 364Vinh Moc Tunnels

164-5, 167visas 18, 473-4volunteering 474Vo Thi Sau 272Vung Ro Bay 235Vung Tau 264-8, 265, 267

Wwalking, see trekkingwalking tours 76, 76Wandering Souls Day

(Trung Nguyen) 27War Remnants Museum

313, 281waterfalls

Ba Ho Falls 250Ban Gioc Waterfall 122

Dambri Falls 288, 289Datanla Falls 289Dau Dang Waterfall 102Elephant Falls 289Suoi Da Ban 380Suoi Tranh 379

water parks 324water puppetry 88, 342, 455weather 18, 37, 467weights 468West Lake 69whales 459Whale Island 234white-water rafting 42

Nha Trang 243wildlife sanctuaries &

reservesBac Lieu Bird

Sanctuary 365Bang Lang Stork

Garden 367Cat Tien Bear & Wild Cat

Rescue Station 284Cu Chi Wildlife Rescue

Station 350Dao Tien Endangered

Primate Species Centre 284

Endangered Primate Rescue Center 152

Monkey Island Eco Forest Park 352

Tra Su Bird Sanctuary 391

Turtle Conservation Center 152

windsurfing 40, 41Mui Ne 20, 256

women in Vietnam 453women travellers 474-5women’s health 490work 475

XXeo Quyt Forest 399Xuan Huong Lake 289

YYa Chim 304yoga

Hoi An 204Mui Ne 255Nha Trang 243Siem Reap 403

Yok Don National Park 299-300

ZZika 489

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

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Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro/MRT/MTR station

Petrol stationSkytrain/Subway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

Beach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Mudflat

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

CampingHut/Shelter

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

Gate

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book

Map Legend

David EimerSouthwest Highlands David has been a journalist and writer ever since aban-doning the idea of a law career in 1990. After spells working in his native London and in Los Angeles, he moved to Beijing in 2005, where he contributed to a va-riety of newspapers and magazines in the UK. Since then, he has travelled and lived across China and in numerous cities in Southeast Asia, including Bangkok, Phnom Penh and Yangon. He has been covering China, Myanmar and Thailand for

Lonely Planet since 2006.

Nick RaySiem Reap & the Temples of Angkor A Londoner of sorts, Nick harks from Watford, the sort of town that makes you want to travel. After studying history and politics, in 1998 he hit the road for a life in travel and has worked on about 50 titles for Lonely Planet since. Based in Cambodia, he covers countries in Southeast Asia, including Cambodia, Laos, Myanmar and Vietnam, with the occasional diversion to Africa. Nick also works as a location scout and line producer for film and television,

writes articles for magazines and newspapers, and lectures on tours for travel companies and inter-national organisations.

Nick lives in Phnom Penh with his wife Kulikar and two children, Julian and Belle. Motorbiking around the Mekong remains a passion and the region remains a great place for two-wheeled adventures.

Phillip TangHanoi, Mekong Delta Phillip grew up on a typically Australian diet of pho and fish’n’chips before moving to Mexico City. A degree in Chinese- and Latin-American cultures launched him into travel and then writing about it for Lonely Planet’s Can-ada, China, Japan, Korea, Mexico, Peru and Vietnam guides. Writing at hellophillip.com, photos @mrtangtangtang, and tweets @philliptang. Phillip also wrote the People & Culture chapter.

Read more about David at: https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/ davidbkk67

Read more about Nick at: https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/ nickjray

Read more about Phillip at: https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/ philliptang

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 55415314th edition – August 2018ISBN 978 1 78657 064 2© Lonely Planet 2018 Photographs © as indicated 201810 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

OUR WRITERSIain StewartSoutheast Coast Iain trained as journalist in the 1990s and then worked as a news reporter and a restaurant critic in London. He started writing travel guides in 1997 and has since penned over 60 books for destinations as diverse as Ibiza and Cambodia. Iain’s contributed to Lonely Planet titles including Mexico, Indo-nesia, Central America, Croatia, Vietnam, Bali and Lombok and South-East Asia. He also writes regularly for the Independent, Observer and Daily Telegraph and

tweets at @iaintravel. Iain also wrote Plan Your Trip (except for Eat & Drink Like a Local, and People & Culture), and the Scenes of Vietnam and Understand chapters.

Brett AtkinsonCentral Vietnam, Ho Chi Minh City Brett is based in Auckland, New Zealand, but frequently on the road for Lonely Planet. He’s a full-time travel and food writer specialising in adventure travel, unusual destinations, and surprising angles on more well-known destinations. Craft beer and street food are Brett’s favourite reasons to explore places, and he is featured regularly on the Lonely Planet

website, and in other newspapers and magazines. Since becoming a Lonely Planet author in 2005, Brett has covered areas as diverse as Vietnam, Sri Lanka, the Czech Republic, New Zealand, Mo-rocco, California and the South Pacific. Brett also wrote the Eat & Drink Like a Local chapter.

Austin BushNorthern Vietnam Austin originally moved to Thailand in 1999 as part of a language study programme hosted by Chiang Mai University. The lure of city life, employ-ment and spicy food eventually led him to Bangkok, where they have managed to keep him since. These days, Austin works as a writer and photographer. He has contributed to numerous books, magazines and websites, including more than 20 Lonely Planet titles, such as Bangkok; The Food Book; Food Lover’s Guide to the

World; Laos; Malaysia; Myanmar (Burma); Thailand; and The World’s Best Street Food.

Read more about Iain at: https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/ stewpot

Read more about Brett at: https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/ BrettAtkinson

Read more about Austin at: https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/ osten_th

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© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’