Vidhu Dyeing

8/3/2019 Vidhu Dyeing

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The precautions of Garment Dyeing are discussed below:

1. Garments design should be made from engineering point of view.

2. if garmet is made after desizing, scouring and bleaching of grey fabrics and then dyed ingarments form, then the possibility of problems will be reduced,

3. if possible, garments should be made from the grey fabrics of the same lot and same source.4. the seams should not be too tight or too loose especiallu in the areas containing elastic likewaistband, cuff aetc which may create irregular dye penetration resulting irregular dyeing.

5. the garmens which are produced from woven and knitted fabrics combindly, he knit fabric

should be pre-shrunked, otherwise seam pucker may develop after garments dyeing.

6. if the garment fabric is of mixed fibres, during gaments dyeing, dye selection should be donecarefully, having equqal dye pick up to avoid irregular dyeing.

7. poor quality metals should bot be used as accessories in the garments, which may vbe

damaged duing dyeing by the action of salt and alkali. If any metal component is used in thegarments should be made from nickel or its alloy.

8. sewing thread used for making the garment should be of same fibre like the garment fabric,

other43wise colour difference may occur between garments fabric and sewing thread.9. button used in the garments should be selected carefully. Buttons made from casin, cellulose,

mylon etc. may be damaged during garments dyeing but polyester button is safe in this project.

10. if elastic is used in the garments and the elastic is made from natural rubber of polyurethancefibre like lycrea amy create problelm during garments dyeing. To avoid such problem dye should

be selected made of copper free. During bleaching, polyurethance fibres may be damaged by the

chlorine. Polyester type elastomeric fibre is safe in peroxide bleaching.

11. interlining is used in most garments. Only those interlinings should be sed in the garments tobe dyed only recommended for garments dyeing, otherwise the performance of interlining may

be destroyed.

12. the garments made from compactly woven cotton fabric should be dyed with hot brand

reactive dyes, otherwise problem of irregular dye penetration may occur.13. for some specific colour, if specific dyes are dused then the dyeing cost will be lower. For

example, navy blue and black colour could be procuce in the garments by using sulpher dyes atlower cost.

14. presence of mineral impurities in the cotton fibres may vary which may impede the stability

of peroxide liquor during bleaching with bydrogen peroxide. Even insoluble compounds may

form during hydrogen peroxide bleaching. Those insoluble compounds may redposit onchemicals are available to avoid such problem.

15. Crease marks may develop in the cotton garments during dyeing. To avoid such problem,

special chemicals like Imacol Brand may be used.

C U T T I N G R O O M C O N T R O L ( P R O - C U T ) O V E R V I E W


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1. Cut Planning

The system starts at the beginning of Cutting Room procedures,

this first process is called Cut Planning It is the process of

establishing the following: -

1. The best combinations of sizes and colours to produce

all the garments in the order minimising the amount of

labour required.

2. The best combination of sizes and colours to produce

all the garments in the order to get the best possible

fabric utilisation

3. Consideration must be taken of the Fabric Type and the

conditions prevailing in the company.

These factors compete with each other, and normally require great experience and skill to produce the best results.

The labour required to do this is therefore expensive.

The above functions are de-skilled and simplified in this system, we use a system of percentages, developed over

many years, combined with the power of the computer the Cut Planning procedure becomes an easy task and will be

able to be performed by personnel with much lower skill levels. More importantly it is simpler to achieve the main

goals of the planning procedure. Marker Plans are sent to the Marker Making this function is outside the scope of

this system; information from this procedure is entered into the system, i.e. marker length, efficiency and perimeter

length.

2. Markers for linings/Fusible ect.

When main fabric markers have been decided, copy the marker plan into the other fabrics, enter the marker lengths

and the system will calculate the requisitions for these fabrics, it will also allow the user to combine sizes, and colours

if necessary.

3. Fabric Requisitions

After marker making, the marker lengths are entered and fabric requirements are calculated. A comparison between

Costed fabric requirement and Marked fabric requirement is made, showing potential profit or loss before fabric is

issued. Management can now decide in advance what actions are necessary to maximise profit.

4. Fabric Issue

It is normally the case that fabric issue is not exactly what is required by the order (due to the various fabric roll

lengths. It is not economically viable for the Raw materials store to accept small lengths as Returns to stock as

they stay on the shelves and are eventually sold to a Jobber at a very low cost. It is therefore necessary to use the

extra with the rest of the order. This is automatically proportionally allocated over the whole order, ensuring that

excess cloth is not put onto the last (and in most cases the one with the poorest fabric utilisation) as has been being


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done in the past. It is of course possible to return fabric to stock if necessary.

5. Binding Requirements

It is important that garments that require binding in the same fabric have the quantity properly calculated, so that

cutting too much does not create waste. The program will calculate binding requirements.

6. Laying up

When the user is satisfied with the Marked Rating the system will produce Laying up sheets. These indicate the

number of plies of each colour of fabric that should be layed to complete the requirements of the order. These sheets

require the operator to enter the following details:

Roll Number: Number of Plies: Damaged lengths of Fabric: off cuts: Remnants: and Joins.

Laying up information can also be entered using Touch Screens and Palm Pilots This allows information to be

collected on a Real Time basis.

From this information, complete fabric reconciliations can be computed.

7. Fabric Reconciliation

This contains the following information: -

Fabric issued - Total layed up

Damaged fabric - off cuts and Joins

Variance on Manufacturers roll length Profit or loss on order

Comparison of Achieved against Costed rating

8. Reports from the system

The following reports are available.

1. Management Report showing Cutting room profit or loss for the period requested.

2. Work in progress. Details of where all order are and their progress throughout the department.

3. Garment Numbering. This is a system used in the industry to eliminate garment Shading.

4. Bundle List. This is a list of the bundles required in the sewing plant. This is integrated into the Pro-Mansystem.

5. Fabric Performance this informs management everything about the fabric supplier.

6. Cutting order summary

7. Marker plans

8. Fabric requisitions and Issues

9. Work in Progress


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9. System set-up

Each individual company circumstances are taken into account as follows:

1. Table Length

2. Cut quantity variance allowed

3. Maximum lay height allowed for differing fabric types

4. Min/Max Bundle size allowed.

5. Computerisation requirements.

10. Pictures

We provide the facility to see pictures of the fabric and styles to be used on the order together with fabrics r colour

ways. This will assist in the elimination of costly errors and avoid the time required for searching for samples

Pro Cut SMV Overview

Monitoring cutting room productivity is not done in most factories, however, many times poor work supply from the

Cutting Room causes major production losses. It is essential to factory performance that the cutting room is

intelligently managed and controlled and with this in mind we have, through our considerable expertise, developed

Pro-Cut-SMV. It is a fact that different styles have a great effect on the cutting rooms ability to supply sufficient work,

for example:

Some styles have lots of fusing, -- can the fusing department cope? How do you manage the workload when

producing checks or stripes? What is the effect of small orders? How can you balance the work properly to satisfy the

demands of all of the production lines? All these questions can be answered using Pro-Cut-SMV.

In conjunction with our Pro-Cut system we are now able to establish a database of Standard times for all operations

within the cutting room and to monitor Work in Progress throughout this department.

Pro-Cut-SMV was developed to:

Monitor the performance of all departments within the cutting room

Monitor Work In Progress

Make sure that all component parts to an order are cut together

Simplify time and method study practices for Cutting operations

Overcome the difficulties of producing accurate Standard Times

How it works


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Studies are carried out on every activity for all processes in the cutting room.

A sequence of operations required for the style is developed.

A Data Card containing details of the style is set up.

After marker planning the details are available for marker length, plies, number of sizes etc.

The above information is then used to generate standard times for every activity.

Bar-coded tickets are produced for every operation. These are scanned at regular intervals (2 hourly) during

the day.

We are then able to monitor performance for the following processes:

Laying-up

Straight knife cutting

Round Knife cutting

Band knife cutting

Fusing

Re-Cutting

Re-laying

Matching Stripes and blocks

Numbering

Sorting

Times are established well in advance using Pro-Cut SMV and by using the techniques developed in our Pro-Man

system we are able to produce bar-coded tickets giving the required information for the control of the labour force and

Work in Progress in this department.

Advantages

Management decisions based on the current situation not history.

Reduction of data collection personnel.

Freeing supervisors and Managers to manage.

Control of Labour ratios to ensure accurate recoveries.

Part of a totally integrated production control system.

Links and other applications.

Better and more efficient data flow between systems and departments.

Better trained and more informed personnel. Quicker reaction to customers needs.

Improved customer satisfaction.

Improved communication.

Total Work in Progress Control.

Simple for operators to understand.

Quick and accurate.

Print what you require only, it may be the case that some of the reports are used intermittently.


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Transport information into Spread sheet applications.

It is easy to learn and apply.

Monitors cutting room efficiency.

Produces accurate production figures for all functions automatically.

Monitors WIP.

It will improve production planning and control procedures.

Work-in-progress feedback is earlier and is accurate.

It will lead to accurate style costing for cutting operations.

Can calculate the time it will take to cut an order.

Can establish cutting costs for new orders.

Can establish a cost per unit for cutting different order quantities.

Can plan the cutting room more effectively.

Will make you aware of cutting overload before it happens.

Proper targets can be established for each function within this department.

Inefficiencies will be easy to identify.

Automatic emails to head office.

All of the above points lead to better management control and considerable cost savings.

Reports from the system

The following reports are available.

1. Efficiencies of all departments within the cutting room

2. Work in progress at all stages per lay per cut.

3. Planned lays per order and the position of each one.

4. Cutting room output for each department.

5. Departmental labour requirements for each order.

Apparel Making

Knowledge is the key to success and this also stands true fortextile industry. Every textileentrepreneur need to know the basic, traditional as well as modern and technical apparel making

techniques. This helps the traders compare all the available means in the market and select the one

best suited for the business requirement. The basic processes of textile manufacturing viz. spinning,

weaving, knitting, finishing processes, dyeing, printing and others are all involved in fabricmanufacturing. However, the actual ready to wear apparel involves many more processes right from

pattern drafting togarmentconstruction which include pattern designing andpattern making,

grading, marker making, apparel cutting, sewing, pressing and finishing. Lets have an overview of the basic processes aswell as the latest trends in the making of an apparel.

Pattern Making

The basic procedure for apparel making is to design a pattern and put it into an identifiable form. The

traditional method of pattern making includes creation of hard paper patterns. The modern apparel

making systemhas adopted the digitization of pattern making process. These days many clothingfirms provide the most modern and technical services for garment construction. They can create fresh

computerized patterns or make modifications to existing hard paper patterns or digitize the available
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data. These patterns can be made from their own samples or specifications provided by the apparel manufacturers. Most of

these firms try to provide patterns that will sew properly without confusion in the production line.

Pattern Grading

Grading is the process used for creating sized patterns. There are certain proportional rules and set

increments that form the basis of grading. These rules are set on the basis of analysis on body

measurements of the general population. The clothing firms also help in pattern grading using the

specifications provided by the apparel manufacturers and some of them also assist the manufacturers

in establishing specifications for their product. The grade rules are developed keeping in view the

market segment for which the product is intended such as men, women, youth, child, toddler etc.

These firms mostly use the softwares available in the market for checking the accuracy of the grades.

Marker making

Fabric is the most important basic material for apparel making and it accounts for around 50 per cent of

the ex-factory cost of a garment. Thus, material optimization or maximizing fabric utilization is the

fundamental factor for every apparel firm. Marker making is done to avoid material wastage. While

making markers, fabric width, length, fabric type and subsequent cutting method, all are taken into

account. Both single size and multiple size paper markers are made using automated marker making

tools and Computer Aided Design Computer Aided Manufacturing (CADCAM) along with traditional

manual methods. The firms providing this service use previously graded pattern or the digitized copy of

styles provided by the apparel manufacturers.

Apparel Cutting

Apart from using traditional tools such as straight knife, band knife, shears etc. nowadays, automatic

spreading equipment and computerized cutting systems are widely used for apparel cutting . Pattern

specifications are kept into consideration while cutting which ensures that the constructed garment is

exactly similar to the sample produced. The use of markers ensures as little textile waste as possible.

Apparel Sewing

The sewing operation in most of the garment construction companies is closely

supervised for quality control. A variety of apparel styles and fabrics are sewn these days. There

are a large number ofsewing machines available for almost any sewing operation. Some ofthe examples of such machines are single needle, double needle, safety stitch, automatic meter,

automatic multi stitch, loop tacker, pocket welt, keyhole buttonhole, automatic button sewer, round

eyelet etc.

Pressing and Finishing

After the sewing operation, the constructed garments are examined, pressed, tagged and bagged

in the pressing and finishing department. The automated processes adopted these days prevent

the possibility of wrinkling of the sewn garments throughout the finishing process.

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BASIC SOP FOR CUTTING SECTIONIN APPAREL MFG
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Saturday, August 25, 2007

Basic Technical SOP for Cutting Section in Apparel Mfg Facility

This research paper is relevant to Indian Apparel manufacturing sector.

SOP Designed under guidance of Mr. Jayashantha Perera

Inputs Details related to Fabric such as face

side /Shade bands etc..

1. Shade swatches along with the face side swatch approved by the

buyer should be received from the Go down and Merchandising dept

respectively.

2. Shade segregation should be complying with the approved

swatches.

3. Verify whether the shade segregation is matching to the standard.

4. Approval from H/office mandatory if the received lots of fabric are

not matching to standards.

5. The approval must have a checklist form for all the tests & approval

standards w. r. t colour, wash, embroidery, printing, hand feel

6. Shade band details (Shade A, B, C, D) after verification should be

received from fabric inspector & spreading team also should be

given a copy for reference.

7. Shade grouping also must be received from the fabric godown.

8. Fabric details such as to face/back, nap direction; hand feel should

be received from the godown duly approved by the merchant.

9. Shade wise/widthwise segregated rolls only should be received,

checked & then should proceed for laying.

10.Both ends of every roll should have sticker consisting details of

shade no, roll no, width and other relevant detail to enable easy

identification of rolls.
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Cutting Forecast shade wise

1. Cuttable quantities from each lot and shade should be informed to

marketing, QA, & Buyer QA in advance for approval.

2. Cutting of rolls/bales should be done shade wise as per the

breakdown of the PO

Note: Rolls should be allotted in such a way that no of shades included in

a single lay or shipment or size range is minimized.

Spreading of fabric for Relaxation

1. Unroll the fabric from rolls & lay on table/flat area in concentric

folds.

2. Allow for free relaxation without any obstruction the period should

be studied and pre determined by the Go down and the factory

Fabric Inspector3. Record the time of unrolling and ready time laying of each roll

4. Relaxation of the lay should be pre determined and will be around 3-

6hrs (for stretch fabrics if necessary especially for knitted fabcrics

Fusing-Study of Fusing Shrinkage

1. Cut fabric swatches with square template of size 18 X18(or 12x12)

2. Fuse the fabric & specified interlining at specified temperature,

pressure & time.

3. Allow for cooling of the fused parts.


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4. Check for fusing shrinkage and record same ---this should be

incorporated into the patterns as allowance for fusing.

5. Check for shade variation if any due to fusing. If you observe any

shade variation, report to the Cutting In Charge and initiate

corrective action.

6. Check the fusing for defects like peel off, bubbles etc. Inform

deviations/defects if any to the concerned for necessary corrective

action.

7. QA team has to educate/specify area of fusing, and temperature and

pressure to be set for fusing-

8. Fusing tests must be carried out twice a day, once at the start of the

machine then in the afternoon.

Fusing Machine-- Tests & Daily Maintenance:

>> Fusing validation trial tests must be carried out regularly, when

the new style begins fusing parameters has to be finalised

(temperature, time & pressure).

>>Check the fusing machine pressure rollers nip, affecting the

fusing quality, by passing a fabric strip through the machine & by

pulling it backward --the need for re alignment of the rollers

pressure can be identified when this is done at three points i.e

left/center/right of the belt.

>>By passing a carbon paper placed on top a white paper through

the machine the impression on the white paper can be observed.

This would also will help us to determine any inconsistence of the

roller pressure at left>center> Right

>>Cleaning of the belt thoroughly and check for the required

temperature and pressure when the fabric/colour changes.


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Washing Shrinkage

1. Percentage of washing shrinkage lengthwise and widthwise should

be received from fabric section and recordedthe suppliers should

ensure that the shrinkages are as specified by the buyers

(international standard limits are 3% lengthwise and 3% -widthwise )

2. Identify the face & reverse side as per the swatch . Mark the roll no,

PO, Style, QC, Taka No etc

3. If the washing shrinkage % is more that 1.5% then the shrinkage

test to be conducted for all the rolls/bales received (100% of rolls)

4. If there is a big variation in shrinkage, multiple markers to be

prepared.

For Example: For absolute shrinkage % range of 3.0 4.5 %

marker/pattern#1 & for shrinkage of 4.5% - 6% - Marker/Pattern # 2

like that.

>>Color codification should be done to trace rolls of shrinkage groups , if

the range is too large or inconsistent.

Cutting of Pilot Run

Objective: carried out in order to make the necessary amendments in

patterns/laying procedure/cutting procedure /cutting allowance/ marker

changes/panel inspection/numbering area/bundling size.

1. Cutting incharge, production manager & IE shall plan for the pilot &

bulk cutting.2. Pilot run cutting shall be done as per the colour/size/quantity

advised by FM/PM/IE.-the selection of the rolls should cover all the

shades and shrinkage groups


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3. Make a report of observations, comments, suggestions,

amendments, simplification, risk analysis, corrective action plan

based on the above analysis.

4. Obtain feed back from the sewing & buying QA and then act upon

the necessary corrective action.

Marker drawing & Preservation of patterns

1. Carbon Papers could be used for duplication of markers in case of

non-CAD markers.In case of Nike orders it is not allowed---efforts

be made to obtain computer markers from a close by plant..

2. The pattern/marker being suggested by HO team is only a starting

point for the cutting incharge to work on better fabric utilisation.

Cutting incharge should try out different markers to maximize fabric

3. A Parts Checklist has to be maintained by the marker drawer to

ensure coverage of all parts in the lay.

4. Pattern should be verified for required allowances, tolerances,

notches and embellishment placement marks, grain line, nap

direction indications before marking.

5. Constant usage of patterns results in wear & tear of pattern, this

has to be regularly monitored and worn out patterns to be replaced

even daily if the case demands to ensure cutting quality.

6. Cello tape could be used to preserve the edges of the pattern boards

for big quantities plastic boards could be used to duplicate the

pattern for marker drawing

7. If the patterns are worn out, it has to be replicated & cross-verified

for required measurements, allowances and tolerances. On

satisfying these factors the worn out pattern has to be replaced.

8. Worn out patterns are to be destroyed after conformation on the

correctness of the specifications mentioned in tech pack.

9. Lay sheet on which the marker is drawn is torn in the middle &

stickers are pasted consisting details like PO no, Serial no, Fabric


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code no, Lot no. Hence easy identification of cut panels.

Lay Preparation:

1. Layers shall collect lay slip, cutting job card, lay sheet from the

minusing person.

2. Layers shall lay the fabric according to the lay slip details.

3. Layers shall collect rolls of only one shade and one width for the lay

at a time ,if any shade change is noticed then use separators- i.e. lay

sheet has to be placed for identification.

4. The cutting incharge has to decide upon the kind of lay such as

face-to-face, face to back, face up, face down, grain line, nap

direction during the PP meeting stage upon the analysis of the

garment.

5. Use lay separator sheets to separate rolls of different shades if used

in the same laythe shade category should be mentioned on every

lay separator sheet also.

Lay Precaution:

5. During laying the layers should check the lay-to-lay shade variation

& also center to selvedge variation as a part of online check

procedure.

6. QC shall inspect the lay for lay tension, width, length, grain line, nap

direction etc.

7. End wastage for laying of fabric shouldnt be more than 1 cm.

Bulk Cutting

1. Lay wise manpower requirement must be planned.


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2. Cutters must be trained on the methods of accurate cutting,

especially for parts with deep curves. If possible diagrammatic

representation of the direction of movement of the cutter needs to

be illustrated.

3. Cutters shall inspect the cutting machine for oil leakage,

straightness of the blade, sharpening quality, evenness in

sharpening of the blade, dust accumulation before cutting.

4. Cutters shall cut lay as per the mark up using straight knife m/c and

move the parts to band knife as per the discussion in PP meeting.

5. QC shall inspect all the cut parts using patterns and initiate

corrective action upon the detection of defect.

6. Prepare 1st cut bundle inspection report; notify fabric defects and

cutting defects to FM/PM.

7. QC should have a cutting checklist against which 1st bundle audit has

to be conducted. Checklist should have details of allowances,

tolerance included in pattern, notches and embellishments

placement markings details.

8. The size of the straight knife for cutting lightweight fabrics should

be 6 only.

9. Straight knife must be uniformly sharpened from top to bottom as

frequently required,. This ensures even sharpening along the full

10. length of the knife/blade.

Note:If sharpening of blade is uneven/inconsistent, it would result in

uneven depth of notch marks and variation in cutting too..


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11.For Band knife cutting , patterns preferably made of tin should be

used.

12. The patterns used for band knife must be changed regularly

upon monitoring the wear and tear on the pattern, due to frequent

usage.

Numbering

1. Numbering plan must be given by the numbering incharge,

specifying the style #, colour, P.O No., Serial No., No. Of garments

cut, sizes.2. All the parts shall be numbered in a pre determined sequence and at

pre determined location.

3. Numbering stickers gum strength (Light/Medium/Heavy) has to be

decided keeping in mind the kind of fabric being cut.

Panel Checking

1. The checkers carried out panel checking by placing the cut panels on

the pattern and checking for accuracy of notches, grain lines, nap

direction, crocked cutting, measurements & tolerance.

2. Mark the pattern on a board (Acrylic. Card Board) along with +/-

tolerance as dotted lines around the outline marked. Place the cut

panel (component) on this marked area. It becomes easier to asses if

the cut panel is within or out of tolerance. This inspection board has

to verified and approved by pattern maker before usage.3. Once the fabric is cut, they shall be bundled and marked with

inspection status.

4. When a bundle is checked, they shall be marked with green as c.

5. When cut panels are inspected they shall be marked with green as

I.


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6. All panels shall be checked for fabric defects.

Bundling & Sorting

1. Cuts shall be bundled in to a pre determined bundle size and will be

segregated size wise as well as lot wise and stored in bags.

2. Bags shall be stored in racks batch wise.

3. Issues of cut bundles to batches be done out as per the loading plan

4. Bundle tags will have details such as lot no, serial no, size, bundle

no.

5. Mention shade category (A, B, C) on the cut panels for easy

identification and tracking.

Re cutting & End bit Control:

8. Layers shall mark both end bits with roll number, cut-lot number,

meter age --all the bits every lay shall be bundled and given to

recutting department.

9. End-bits should be always laid face-up, no change in laying

procedure without prior information from the incharge

10.End-bits should be placed separately (Shade wise) to avoid

discrepancies, the roll & taka number should be written and stacked

separately

11. Re-Cutting should be done from the same lot of fabric,

matching the shade, to avoid shade variation.

CuttingMarker type : Manual

Method of fabric inspection : Four point grading system using Fabric inspection machine

Spread checking : 100% check during spreading.

Cut piece checking : 100% check of component from Cut block.

Procedures for cuttingAfter getting approval to start cutting, cutting staff will open all rolls of fabric required fordays cutting at least 24 hours prior to commencement of cutting for the purpose of fabric


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damage the fabric.

While cutting the fabric make sure that: Cutting tolerance will exceed 1/32 of aninch.

During spreading cutting quality will fill-up the Spread check list and will mark all defectparts during laying and will report in spread defect format. After cutting each cut blocks has

to be checked by hard pattern. The cut block is to be placed in between two hard patternsand have to check for Miss Cuts, Matching plies, Notches.

CUT BLOCK INSPECTION:

Cut block inspection is made and recorded as per cutting component replacement report.The defect components have to be replaced immediately and placed in the layer from whererejected. This has to be recorded strictly.

Process Control Matrix

Process Sub-Process Control Activities

Pre-ProductionActivities

Production Planning Once documented order details are received frommerchandising department and the fabric and trimsare available in the store, a production plan isprepared considering the followings:

Production Capacity

Lead Time

Construction of new style

Productivity

Prioritize production lines if similar styles have beenperformed earlier. Production plan once ready iscirculated to all departments so that they can plantheir activities accordingly. Production plan isupdated based on the production report received ondaily basis.

Pre-ProductionMeeting

Before starting test cutting Pre-Production Meeting isheld to make sure everyone is aware of all about thestyle and execute the style respecting all qualitypoints and to minimize communication gaps and toget a know how of the order starting from cuttingsection to finishing section. The meeting is attendedby Quality Assurance Manager, Cutting-In-Charge

and respective line Mechanic. During the meetingfollowing points are discussed as per the agendamentioned the following.

Introduction of the style - Assistant GeneralManager / Factory Manager

Fabric & Accessories status Store-In-

Charge

Pattern, Cut marks etc Pattern In Charge


19/38

Quality points QA Manager

Special Operations Production Manager

Line Layout, Allocation of workers LineChief

Ironing, Folding & Packing Finishing-In-Charge

Meeting minutes are recorded & circulated to allconcerns.

Cutting Cutting Planning andMarker Preparation

The cutting Planning is done based on following

Production Plan

Order details i.e. Size, Ratio, and

Specification etc.

Approved shade Band chart, approved fabricswatches.

Based on the Size, Ratio, and Fabric width marker isprepared, checked for the pattern direction,tightness and consumption and is finally approvedfor efficiency.

Spreading Lay length on cutting table according to the markerlength and rolls are segregated according to the

marker width.The fabric is then spread following instructions givenbelow:

From one side the fabric layers should beshould be straight at 90 degree.

The fabric is spread according to Lay length.

The fabric should be evenly spread, i.e. thereshould be no wrinkles or waves, etc.

Follow any special instructions given by theCutting-In-Charge.

Once the spreading is completed, actual yardage,number of layers and the balance yardage arerecorded.

After spreading the marker is prepared on fabric and

clipped from both sides.Before starting cutting size, ratio and style numberare checked and recorded.During cutting the Cutter men follow the instructions

given below

Before start cutting ensures that the oil levelin the cutting machines and that the blades

and sharpening belt are functioning.

While cutting follow the marker lines

Cut notches according to cut marks.

Always wear safety gloves slippers and


20/38

masks.

The helpers tie the parts immediately after the QCinspector inspects and passes the cut panels andforwards for numbering.

Once the cutting is completed, the cutting supervisorgives the cutting Lay order sheet to the numberingsection.

Numbering &Bundling

Based on the total number of garments in everycutting a Numbering Plan is prepared. Thenumbering is issued serial wise starting from 1 to soon. These stickers are put on every panel. Stickersare placed in such a manner on every panel that itremains visible after sewing. Once the numbering iscompleted, the bundles of maximum 25 pieces perpanel are made and the bundling ticket is inserted inevery bundle.

Sewing Pre ProductionPreparation Based on the style, processes are identified and linelayout is set to achieve required production target.The machinery are arranged and adjusted accordingto the line Lay layout.

Line Feeding Based on the Production plan followings are made

available before feeding:

Accessories, cut panels, work sheets, andtrims are approved and available

Machine, Folder, gauges are adjusted by themaintenance personnel.

Production line is set as per line layout.

Approved samples are available in the line

for reference.

Every sewing line has different section but it maychange depending on the style. Line supervisor ofrespective section is responsible to feed bundleaccording to bundle ascending number.

During Production During feeding the line in-charge has to monitor forfollowing:

To achieve required quality level.

To follow bundle system for an organized

line.

To record interruptions & failures.

To avoid gaps (vacuum) due to new stylefeeding.

To follow up efficiency sheet & identify

bottlenecks and suggest remedies.

To achieve required efficiency and targetsgiven by the Management.

It is the responsibility of the machine operators andthe helpers to carry out their respective work given


21/38

by the line chiefs and supervisors to carry outeffectively as explained on their job instructions.

Seam Sealing To make the specialized hunting wears water proofTRZ group has 21 Seam Sealing Machine in its 3Factories. Seam Tapes are affixed after each seamsewing.

Finishing

Thread Cutting Excess thread and raw edges if found in a garmentboth inside and outside are cut / trimmed:

Pressing / Ironing The ironing is done as per the customerrequirements. in many cases the supervisorwill make use of iron shoes, arms to achievedesired results. Sometimes hard pressing isrequired for areas like puckering seams, etc.

Iron temperature is controlled to avoid fabricshine, burn marks.

Steam consumption is used efficiently and

effectively while pressing.

Garments are handled, pressed and

transported properly to avoid crushing.

Clean work place is maintained by frequent cleaningfor iron tables, vacuum cloth, and table cover. Ironshoe etc.

Packing Special care is taken to ensure thathangtags, price tickets etc are attached atthe required place and correct size. Folding isalso done according to the customerspecified standard.

Assortment is also done based on thecustomers requirements. e.g. solid size solidcolor assorted size solid color etc, and the

quantity per carton will be determined by thebuyer.

Packing list is prepared and cartons areclosed after double-checking the assortment.

Shipping marks, carton marks and numbers

are also mentioned as per the customersrequirements.

The carton quantity is checked and verified

against the packing list.

Cutting is the production process of separating (sectioning, carving, severing) a spread into garment parts that

are the precise size and shape of the pattern pieces on a marker. The cutting process may also involve

transferring marks and notches from the marker to garment parts to assist operators in sewing. Chopping orsectioning a spread into blocks of piece goods may precede precision cutting of individual pattern shapes. This

is often done to allow for accurate matching of fabric design or easier manipulation of a cutting knife.


22/38

CUTTING AND CUTTING ELEMENT OF GARMENTS IN APPAREL FACTORY

Fabric pieces may be cut to predetermined lengths for matching patterns or for additional processing such as

screen printing. Spreads of plaid fabrics may be presectioned into blocks so the design of the fabric can be

perfectly matched before cutting to the shape of the pattern piece. Presectioned pieces may also be garment

parts knitted to specific finished lengths such as sweater bodies. Presectioned pieces such as leather or other

specialty fabrics may be and cut as a single ply or laid up and cut as a multiple-ply spread.

Objectives of cutting:

-Understanding of the cutting process

-Cutting equipments and their operations

Cutting often is carried out in two stages: rough cutting (separating the individual pieces) and the final cutting

(accurate cutting of the individual shapes). Different types of cutting tools have different degrees of precision.

PORTABLE CUTTING KNIVES:

Portable knives can be moved to and through a spread by an operator. There are two main types of portable

knives:

(i) vertical reciprocating straight knives and (ii) round knives. Structurally and mechanically the two types of

machines share many similarities. Structurally, both types of knives have a base plate, power system, handle,

cutting blade, sharpening device, and blade guard. Round knives operate with a one-way thrust as the circular

blade makes contact with the fabric, and vertical knives cut with an up-and-down action. Circular cutters and

straight knives are pushed by hand through the stationary material.

CIRCULAR CUTTERS:

Circular cutting tools use a rotating circular blade. The smallest devices (power shears) is used for cutting

single ply lays and for cutting fabric plies to length during manual spreading. Depending on the size of the

device it is possible to cut to a depth of about 10mm. The larger circular cutter is used mainly for dividing a lay

into sections. It is suitable only for cutting in straight lines or very gradual curves, in depths of about 150mm.

STRAIGHT KNIVES:
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5W3-l_xkuiM/TdvXYMiUlFI/AAAAAAAAAAg/Io3Jgix2IEE/s1600/CUTTING+AND+CUTTING+ELEMENT+OF+GARMENTS+IN+APPERAL+FACTORY.jpg


23/38

A straight knife cutter has a vertical blade, which reciprocates up and down. It is capable of both coarse and

precise cutting to a depth of about 300mm. Corners and curves can be cut accurately. Since all of the layers are

cut at the same place (unlike a circular cutter), and provided that the knife is held vertical, then all of the pieces

cut from a lay are identical.

Vertical straight knives with reciprocating blades are the most versatile and commonly used cutting devices.

Reciprocating blades have a vertical cutting action. Blades vary in length from 6 to 14 inches. Blade length and

the adjustable height of the blade guard are factors in determining the spread depth that can be cut. The 90-degree angle of the narrow, thin blade to the cutting surface makes this knife a good choice for accurately

cutting sharp corners, angles, and curves.

Vertical straight knife machines make only lateral cuts into a spread therefore cannot be used to cut out areas

from the center of garment parts.

Basic Components of Portable Knives:

Blades are mounted in a vertical position at a 90-degree angle to the cutting surface. Blades vary in shape, size,

cutting action, and fineness of the cutting edge. A straight blade contacts the spread at a 90-degree angle;

assuming the blade and spread are kept vertical, all plies are cut at the same time. A rotary blade does not cut

all plies evenly at the same time. A round blade contacts the spread at an angle; thus, the top ply is cut before

the bottom ply.

(i) Knife blades can have a major affect on the quality of the cut. Factors that affect the performance of a bladeare the blade edge, surface texture of the blade, coarseness or fineness of the blade edge, and blade

composition. Blade edges may be straight with a flat surface, saw-toothed, serrated, or wavy with a striated

surface. Straightedge blades with a flat surface are general-purpose and the most widely used, while the other

types are more specific to certain types of fabrics. Striated blades are used to reduce heat buildup during

cutting, wavy edges are used for plastics and vinyls, and saw-type blades are use for cutting canvas.

(ii) The base plate is the foundation that supports and helps balance the cutting mechanism. Bases vary in

shape and size, depending on the size and weight of the knife it supports and the maneuverability needed. The

base plate guides the knife in relation to the table surface and elevates the spread off the cutting table for

contact with the blade. Base plates are supported by bearing rollers to facilitate maneuverability and ease of

movement. Edges of the plate are sloped and the front curved to easily slide under the bottom ply and provide

less fabric distortion and drag as it is maneuvered during cutting. The base plate helps maintain the position ofthe blade at a 90-degree pitch.

(iii) The power system controls the motor and the potential cutting speed. The amount of power needed to cut a

spread depends on the height of the spread and the density of the fabric to be cut. The horsepower of the motor

determines the amount of thrust or cutting power of the blade. Higher speeds allow operators to move knives

faster. Greater horsepower increases machine power but it also may increase weight of the motor, which must

be balanced by the blade housing and base plate. Larger, more powerful knives, which may weigh

approximately 35 pounds, are often more cumbersome, heavier, and harder to manipulate and maneuver.

Motors with variable speeds provide more versatility.

(iv) Sharpening devices appropriate for the specific blade type are found on almost all mechanized cutting

equipment. Blades dull quickly when cutting deep spread or dense fabric. As a blade becomes dull, it creates

friction and may cause rough, frayed, or fused edges. Sharpening devices may be stone or emery wheels orabrasive belt sharpeners. Cutting blades are sharpened frequently during the cutting operation simply by

touching the control.

(v) All manually operated cutting devices have a handle for the operator to grip, guide, and propel the knife

through the spread. The operator's other hand is used to stabilize the plies ahead of the knife to prevent

bunching of fabric.


24/38

(vi) A blade guard, when positioned at spread height, rests on the top ply to help stabilize the spread and to

protect the operator's hand. Metal mesh gloves are available as a safety device for cutters using vertical knives.

Cutting Tools Used in the Garment

Industries

By Lisbeth Booth, eHow Contributor

updated December 24, 2010

Print this article

Related Searches:

Bandage Scissors Laser Cutting Machine

1.

o A sharp pair of scissors a common tool used in garment making.

The old adage when it comes to sewing is "measure twice, cut once." When it comes to

professional garment making, the cutting part doesn't always mean grabbing a generic pair

of scissors. Depending on the job, there are many tools used by seamstresses, tailors and

other garment industry workers when making clothes. There is a different tool for each kind

of cutting task.

Scissors and Shearso A sharp pair of scissors or shears is integral to cutting fabric. The difference between

scissors and shears is in the handle: the two handles on a pair of scissors are identical,whereas one handle is larger than the other on a pair of shears. Scissors and shears can beused for most basic cutting tasks.

Knife Cutting Machines

o Cutting machines are commonly used for the mass commercial production of

clothing. The straight knife cutting machine is the most commonly used machine. Othercutting machines include band knife machines and round knife machines. Both computerizedand manual versions of these machines are available.
http://www.ehow.com/print/list_7686765_cutting-tools-used-garment-industries.htmlhttp://www.ehow.com/print/list_7686765_cutting-tools-used-garment-industries.htmlhttp://www.ehow.com/search.html?rs=1&s=Bandage+Scissors&skin=style&t=allhttp://www.ehow.com/search.html?rs=1&s=Laser+Cutting%20Machine&skin=style&t=allhttp://www.ehow.com/print/list_7686765_cutting-tools-used-garment-industries.htmlhttp://www.ehow.com/search.html?rs=1&s=Bandage+Scissors&skin=style&t=allhttp://www.ehow.com/search.html?rs=1&s=Laser+Cutting%20Machine&skin=style&t=all


25/38

Rotary Cutters

o These small hand-held devices with a circular blade that slices through fabric. They

are similar to the round blade machines used in commercial garment making, but smallerand not motorized. They are usually used with a self-healing mat to avoid damaging work

surfaces.

Pinking Shears

o Pinking shears are specialty scissors with scalloped blades. They are used to finish

seams by providing an edge that does not unravel.

Read more:Cutting Tools Used in the Garment Industries | eHow.com

http://www.ehow.com/list_7686765_cutting-tools-used-garment-industries.html#ixzz1d07iiv6g

Snip, Snip: Cutting Tools 101

Scissors & Shears | Pinking Shears | Seam Rippers | Thread Clippers & Embroidery Scissors

| Rotary Cutters | Cutting Tips

Buy quality cutting tools and keep them at their best with periodic

sharpening by a qualified professional.
http://www.ehow.com/list_7686765_cutting-tools-used-garment-industries.html#ixzz1d07iiv6ghttp://www.ehow.com/list_7686765_cutting-tools-used-garment-industries.html#ixzz1d07iiv6ghttp://www.ehow.com/list_7686765_cutting-tools-used-garment-industries.html#ixzz1d07iiv6ghttp://www.fabriclandwest.com/Notion_basics/Cutting_Tools_101/cutting_tools_101.htm#scissorshttp://www.fabriclandwest.com/Notion_basics/Cutting_Tools_101/cutting_tools_101.htm#shearshttp://www.fabriclandwest.com/Notion_basics/Cutting_Tools_101/cutting_tools_101.htm#ripperhttp://www.fabriclandwest.com/Notion_basics/Cutting_Tools_101/cutting_tools_101.htm#embroideryhttp://www.fabriclandwest.com/Notion_basics/Cutting_Tools_101/cutting_tools_101.htm#cuttershttp://www.fabriclandwest.com/Notion_basics/Cutting_Tools_101/cutting_tools_101.htm#tipshttp://www.ehow.com/list_7686765_cutting-tools-used-garment-industries.html#ixzz1d07iiv6ghttp://www.ehow.com/list_7686765_cutting-tools-used-garment-industries.html#ixzz1d07iiv6ghttp://www.fabriclandwest.com/Notion_basics/Cutting_Tools_101/cutting_tools_101.htm#scissorshttp://www.fabriclandwest.com/Notion_basics/Cutting_Tools_101/cutting_tools_101.htm#shearshttp://www.fabriclandwest.com/Notion_basics/Cutting_Tools_101/cutting_tools_101.htm#ripperhttp://www.fabriclandwest.com/Notion_basics/Cutting_Tools_101/cutting_tools_101.htm#embroideryhttp://www.fabriclandwest.com/Notion_basics/Cutting_Tools_101/cutting_tools_101.htm#cuttershttp://www.fabriclandwest.com/Notion_basics/Cutting_Tools_101/cutting_tools_101.htm#tips


26/38

Scissors & Shears

Scissors have both handles the same size; shears have onehandle larger than the other. The best quality scissors and

shears are hot-forged, high-grade steel, joined with an

adjustable screw (not rivet) to ensure even pressure along thelength of the blade.

Sharp shears make clean cuts and well-defined notches. More important,they do not damage fabric. Dull shears slow the cutting process, and make

your hand and wrist tire easily. Sewing shears should not be used for other

household tasks such as cutting paper or twine.

Scissors and shears last longer if you occasionally put a drop of oil on the

screw assembly, wipe them clean with a soft dry cloth after use, and store

them in a box or pouch.

Bent-handled dressmaker's shears are best for pattern cutting because the

angle of the lower blade lets fabric lie flat on the cutting surface. Blade

length of 7" or 8" (18 or 20.5cm) are most popular but lengths up to 12"(30.5cm) are available. Select a blade length appropriate to the size of your

hand -- shorter for small hands, longer for large hands. Left-handed modelsare also available.

If you sew a great deal, invest in a pair of all-steel, chrome-plated shears

(1a) for heavy-duty cutting. The lighter models (1b) are fine for less-

frequent sewing or lightweight fabrics. For synthetic fabrics and slipperyknits, a serrated edge shear (1c) gives maximum cutting control.

Pinking Shears

Pinking shears or scalloping shears cut a zigzag or scallopededge instead of a straight one. Used to finish seams and raw

edges of many types of fabric, they cut a ravel-resistant edge.

Thread Clippers & Embroidery Scissors

Sewing scissors (2a) have one pointed and one rounded tip for


27/38

trimming and clipping seams and facings. The 6"(15cm) blade is most

practical.

Embroidery scissors (2b) have a 4" or 5" (10 or 12.5cm) finely-tapered

blades. Both points are sharp for use in hand work and precision cutting.

Thread clippers (5) with spring-action blades is more convenientthan shears and safer than a seam ripper.

Seam Rippers

Seam rippers quickly rip seams, opens button holes and removes

stitches. Use carefully to avoid piercing fabric.

Rotary Cutters

Rotary cutters are an adaptation of the giant rotary cutters used

in the garment industry. It works like a pizza cutter and can beused by left or right-handed sewers. Use the rotary cutter with

a special plastic mat available in different sizes. The mat

protects both the cutting surface and the blade. A speciallocking mechanism retracts the blade for safety. The rotary

cutter is especially useful for cutting leather, slippery fabrics, orseveral layers of fabric.


28/38

Cutting Tips

Arrange your cutting table so you can move around it to get at the pattern from

all angles. If your cutting surface is not this accessible, cut groups of pattern

pieces apart from the rest of the fabric so you can turn these smaller piecesaround.

Accuracy is important, since a mistake in cutting cannot always be corrected.

Before cutting, double check placement of pattern pieces and alterations. Before

cutting plaids, one-way designs or directional fabrics, make sure the fabric is

folded and laid out correctly. Basting tape may be helpful to keep fabric from

shifting. Heavy or bulky fabric can be cut more accurately one layer at a time.

Slippery fabric is easier to cut if you cover the table with a sheet, blanket or

other non-slip material.

Take long, firm strokes, cutting directly on the dark cutting line. Use shorterstrokes for curved areas.

Keep one hand on the pattern near the cutting line to prevent the pattern from

shifting and to provide better control.

Notches can be cut outward from the notch markings or with short snips into the

seam allowance. Be careful not to snip beyond the seamline.

Use snips to mark the foldlines and stitching lines of darts and pleats, and the

center front and center back lines at the top and bottom. Mark the top of the

sleeve cap above the large dot on the pattern with a snip. On bulky or loosely-

woven fabric where snips cannot be easily seen, cut pattern notches out into the

margin. Cut double or triple notches as one unit, not separately.

After you finish cutting, save scraps to test stitching or pressing techniques,

make trial buttonholes or cover buttons.

For accurate marking and easy identification, leave each pattern piece pinned in

place until you are ready to sew that piece.

Snip, Snip: Cutting Tools 101

Scissors & Shears | Pinking Shears | Seam Rippers | Thread Clippers & Embroidery Scissors

| Rotary Cutters | Cutting Tips
http://www.fabriclandwest.com/Notion_basics/Cutting_Tools_101/cutting_tools_101.htm#scissorshttp://www.fabriclandwest.com/Notion_basics/Cutting_Tools_101/cutting_tools_101.htm#shearshttp://www.fabriclandwest.com/Notion_basics/Cutting_Tools_101/cutting_tools_101.htm#ripperhttp://www.fabriclandwest.com/Notion_basics/Cutting_Tools_101/cutting_tools_101.htm#embroideryhttp://www.fabriclandwest.com/Notion_basics/Cutting_Tools_101/cutting_tools_101.htm#cuttershttp://www.fabriclandwest.com/Notion_basics/Cutting_Tools_101/cutting_tools_101.htm#tipshttp://www.fabriclandwest.com/Notion_basics/Cutting_Tools_101/cutting_tools_101.htm#scissorshttp://www.fabriclandwest.com/Notion_basics/Cutting_Tools_101/cutting_tools_101.htm#shearshttp://www.fabriclandwest.com/Notion_basics/Cutting_Tools_101/cutting_tools_101.htm#ripperhttp://www.fabriclandwest.com/Notion_basics/Cutting_Tools_101/cutting_tools_101.htm#embroideryhttp://www.fabriclandwest.com/Notion_basics/Cutting_Tools_101/cutting_tools_101.htm#cuttershttp://www.fabriclandwest.com/Notion_basics/Cutting_Tools_101/cutting_tools_101.htm#tips


29/38

Buy quality cutting tools and keep them at their best with periodic

sharpening by a qualified professional.

Scissors & Shears

Scissors have both handles the same size; shears have onehandle larger than the other. The best quality scissors and

shears are hot-forged, high-grade steel, joined with anadjustable screw (not rivet) to ensure even pressure along the

length of the blade.

Sharp shears make clean cuts and well-defined notches. More important,they do not damage fabric. Dull shears slow the cutting process, and make

your hand and wrist tire easily. Sewing shears should not be used for other

household tasks such as cutting paper or twine.

Scissors and shears last longer if you occasionally put a drop of oil on the

screw assembly, wipe them clean with a soft dry cloth after use, and storethem in a box or pouch.

Bent-handled dressmaker's shears are best for pattern cutting because the

angle of the lower blade lets fabric lie flat on the cutting surface. Bladelength of 7" or 8" (18 or 20.5cm) are most popular but lengths up to 12"

(30.5cm) are available. Select a blade length appropriate to the size of your

hand -- shorter for small hands, longer for large hands. Left-handed models

are also available.

If you sew a great deal, invest in a pair of all-steel, chrome-plated shears(1a) for heavy-duty cutting. The lighter models (1b) are fine for less-

frequent sewing or lightweight fabrics. For synthetic fabrics and slippery

knits, a serrated edge shear (1c) gives maximum cutting control.

Pinking Shears

Pinking shears or scalloping shears cut a zigzag or scalloped

edge instead of a straight one. Used to finish seams and raw

edges of many types of fabric, they cut a ravel-resistant edge.


30/38

Thread Clippers & Embroidery Scissors

Sewing scissors (2a) have one pointed and one rounded tip fortrimming and clipping seams and facings. The 6"(15cm) blade is most

practical.

Embroidery scissors (2b) have a 4" or 5" (10 or 12.5cm) finely-taperedblades. Both points are sharp for use in hand work and precision cutting.

Thread clippers (5) with spring-action blades is more convenient

than shears and safer than a seam ripper.

Seam Rippers

Seam rippers quickly rip seams, opens button holes and removesstitches. Use carefully to avoid piercing fabric.

Rotary Cutters

Rotary cutters are an adaptation of the giant rotary cutters usedin the garment industry. It works like a pizza cutter and can be

used by left or right-handed sewers. Use the rotary cutter witha special plastic mat available in different sizes. The mat

protects both the cutting surface and the blade. A special

locking mechanism retracts the blade for safety. The rotarycutter is especially useful for cutting leather, slippery fabrics, or

several layers of fabric.


31/38

Cutting Tips

Arrange your cutting table so you can move around it to get at the pattern from

all angles. If your cutting surface is not this accessible, cut groups of pattern

pieces apart from the rest of the fabric so you can turn these smaller piecesaround.

Accuracy is important, since a mistake in cutting cannot always be corrected.

Before cutting, double check placement of pattern pieces and alterations. Before

cutting plaids, one-way designs or directional fabrics, make sure the fabric is

folded and laid out correctly. Basting tape may be helpful to keep fabric from

shifting. Heavy or bulky fabric can be cut more accurately one layer at a time.

Slippery fabric is easier to cut if you cover the table with a sheet, blanket or

other non-slip material.

Take long, firm strokes, cutting directly on the dark cutting line. Use shorterstrokes for curved areas.

Keep one hand on the pattern near the cutting line to prevent the pattern from

shifting and to provide better control.

Notches can be cut outward from the notch markings or with short snips into the

seam allowance. Be careful not to snip beyond the seamline.

Use snips to mark the foldlines and stitching lines of darts and pleats, and the

center front and center back lines at the top and bottom. Mark the top of the

sleeve cap above the large dot on the pattern with a snip. On bulky or loosely-

woven fabric where snips cannot be easily seen, cut pattern notches out into the

margin. Cut double or triple notches as one unit, not separately.

After you finish cutting, save scraps to test stitching or pressing techniques,

make trial buttonholes or cover buttons.

For accurate marking and easy identification, leave each pattern piece pinned in

place until you are ready to sew that piece.

MARKING FABRIC FOR

SEWINGAfter all the pattern pieces are cut, you can begin

marking each piece. This step is of the utmost

importance. It provides road signs showing whereto sew and press. It will also speed your sewing time

when done correctly. Marking will take only a little


32/38

time and is not as tiring as using the tracing wheel or

placing the pattern back on the fabric to look for a lost

detail. By using ready-to-wear tricks, like nips,

notches, and tailor tacks for marking, you can make

your sewing projects much easier to complete. There

are two areas that must be marked when you transferthe pattern marking to the cloth: outside edges and

the inside details.

Notches

There are two types of notches in sewing: pattern

notches and center notches.

PATTERN NOTCHES:

Pattern notches are the single or double notchesprinted on the patterns cutting edges. These notches:

1. Denote center front and center back pattern

pieces

2. Allow for easing and stretching3. Avoid confusion among a number of pieces

that may look alike

CENTER NOTCHES:

Center notches are small V-shaped wedges of fabric

removed from a seam allowance. They should be cut

into all centers and folds to indicate center and grain.For example, when matching the neckline to the

facing, match the notches in the dress to the notches

in the facing. The dress will be perfectly on grain.Notches should be placed on the pattern edge in the

following areas:

1. All center dots in sleeve caps2. All centers of the neckline, front and back of

the garment, facings, and the collars

3. All centers in hemsCenter Notches

Pattern Notches

Copyright 2003 Hip Line MediaHIP LINE MEDIA

Nips

Nips are small cuts put into the outside edge of thefabric with the point of your shears. These are

placed wherever the 5/8" stitching starts or stops atthe edge of a seamline. When starting and ending aseam, if you match these two nips on each layer of

fabric, all of your seam lines will be accurate.

It is better to sit down for pattern nipping, as you will

have better control of the shears. You need to be nearyour work for control and simply to see what you are

doing. Take one piece of the pattern and fabric (still


33/38

pinned or weighted together) and carefully go all the

way around each piece. Nip all the seam edge

intersections:Make nips in all the following areas:

1. 5/8" seam allowances

2. Hems at the turn-up fold line3. Dart legs at seam edge

4. All zipper endings (or notch)

5. Pockets on seam edges (or notch)6. Interfacing and underlining

7. Linings

If the layers of fabric are too much for the shears to

nip when there are interfacing and linings, simplyplace the point of the shears on the fabric as if to cut.

Give the point a swift tap with the edge of your left

hand. This small tap will force the shears through

the layers of fabric cleanly and quickly.Nips are small cuts put in the outside edge ofthe fabric to mark seam allowances, hems, dart

legs, zipper endings, pockets, interfacing, linings,

and underlinings.

Nips

2

Copyright 2003 Hip Line MediaHIP LINE MEDIA

3

Tailor Tacks

There are many ways to mark the inside of a garment,

but experts use tailor tacks most often. A

tailor tack is a short length of thread placed in thefabric. Correctly done, it is the safest way to mark,and can be used on more fabrics than any other

marking system.

Tailor tacks should be used to mark inside details:1. Dart points (on double pointed darts, also tack

at the waistline)

2. Pocket placement3. Anywhere the pattern shows a dot or square

The thread used in making tailor tacks must be

chosen with care. (Imagine using black thread on

white fabric and having fine black fibers in the cloth,forever!) Even heat and moisture from an iron can

fade some colors of thread into the fabric and leave

a spot. The best thread to use will have a smoothfinish (glazed basting thread or silk thread). Protect

your fabric by making sure that the color and composition

of the thread is high-quality. The needleshould be approximately a size 7. Manufacturers


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label the needle packages as sharps (dressmaker)

or betweens (tailor). Either can be used for tailor

tacks.2. Place your shears on the pattern and fabric at

the end of the thread (where a knot would be).

Press the point of the shears down on the fabricto keep it and the pattern from becoming

bunched between the stitches. Pull the needle

and thread until all stitches lay flat and youhave 1" of thread at the end. Cut the thread 1"

on the other side of the stitch. Again, pull the

thread until it's 1" from the tack, and cut on the

other side. Continue until all thread tacks arecut. Lift the pattern up and off.

TO MARK AND CUT TAILOR TACKS:

1. Use an unknotted, double thread. Place your

needle straight in the fabric as if it were athumb tack. Put the index finger of your left

hand on the fabric in front of the needle, thesame way you would put a pin in the fabric.

Make a big stitch and push upward with the

needle. Then go through both layers with as

small a stitch as you can make. Do not put yourhand under the fabric layers as you work, or

slippage will occur. Place all stitches in a line

at one time, pulling the thread loosely as yougo.Copyright 2003 Hip Line MediaHIP LINE MEDIA

Fabric Markers

Another easy way to mark the inside detail on your

fabric is with special fabric markers.RULE: All pen and pencil markers need to be

tested on the fabric before using.

Not all markers can be removed from all fabrics.Some can only be removed before heat is applied

with an iron. Make holes at the pattern's dart points

to allow the marker point to mark the fabric accurately.

3. Now you must cut the tacks apart between the

layers. Hammer a tailor tack down withyour shears. (The tailor tack needs to be held

down or it might pull out when lifting up thesecond layer.) Roll one layer away from you

until you can see the thread color of the tailor

tack. Cut the thread. The shorter you cut thetailor tack, the longer it will stay. Cut all the

tailor tacks apart. On the top side of the fabric,


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trim the long thread as close as possible. Contrary

to belief, long ends are more likely to pull

out of the fabric and short ends stay in.Finishing Your Tailor Tacks

Making the

Most of Your Time

The length of time it takes to cut out a garment will

vary due to the fabric and pattern style. A simple

pattern may have five pieces, while a complicatedone may have thirty. A simple pattern can be cut in

thirty minutes. Others may have interfacing, underlining,

or lining and will take longer to complete.Do not work until you become tired. Your hands,

back, and feet become tense, and then mistakes are

easily made. Time your work so that you will enjoythe cutting step. When all of the cutting is finished

you can say to yourself, Now I know that my

pajamas are half finished.

4 Cutting machineries and equipment for

garment manufacturingBy onlineclothingstudy.com

In the majority of cutting rooms today, the cutting process makes use of hand shears, a

mechanised knife blade in one of the several possible types, or a die press which

stamps out the garment shape. Some of the methods currently in use are described

below:

Hand Shears Hand shears are normally

used when cutting only single or double plies.

The lower blade of the shears passes under

the plies, and some distortion of the fabric

might occur which can be avoided with

practice. Both left handed and right handed

shears are available for left or right handed

people. The major disadvantage of the

method lies in the time it consumes and theconsequent high labour cost per garment, but

it is appropriate for made to measure

garments.

Straight Knife A straight knife is used where the quantities for cutting do not justify

purchase of a computer-controlled cutter. The elements of a straight knife consist of a

base plate, usually on rollers for ease of movement, an upright or a standard carrying a


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straight, vertical blade with varying edge characteristics and an electric motor above it,

a handle for the cutter to direct the blade, and a sharpening device. The base plate on

its rollers slides under the glazed paper which is spread below the bottom ply of fabric

in a lay. Normally, available blades heights vary from 10 cm to 33 cm and strokes vary

from 2.5 cm to 4.5 cm. The greater the blade movement, the faster the blade cuts the

fabric and the more rapidly and easily the operator can push the machine.

The straight knife is a common means of cutting lays in conventional cutting rooms

because it is versatile, portable, cheaper than a band knife, more accurate on curves

than a round knife and relatively reliable and easy to maintain. Even if a band knife is

used for the main cutting operation, a straight knife would be used to separate the lay

into sections for easier handling.

Round Knife - The elements of a round knife are a base plate, above which is mountedan electric motor, a handle for the cutter to direct the blade, and a circular blade

rotating so that the leading edge cuts downwards into the fabric. Blade diameters vary

from 6 cm to 20 cm. Round knives are not suitable for cutting curved lines in high lays

because the blade does not strike all the plies simultaneously at the same point as a

vertical point does. Therefore, a round knife is used only for straight lines or lower no of

lays of relatively few plies.

Band Knife A band knife comprises a series of three or more pulleys, powered by an

electric motor, with a continuously rotating steel blade mounted on them. One edge of

the blade is sharpened. The band knife passes through a slot in the cutting table in afixed position and the section of the lay to be cut is moved past it.

Band knives are used when a higher standard of cutting accuracy is required than can

be obtained with a straight knife. Pieces to be cut are first cut on a block, and then cut

exactly on a band knife.

Notchers Many garments require that notches be cut into the edges of them to

enable alignment during sewing with other garment parts. Specialized notching

equipment provides greater accuracy because a guide lines up the notcher with the cut

edge to give consistent depth of notch at a consistent right angle to the edge.

Drills and thread markers Where reference marks are needed away from the edge

of a garment part, such as for the position of the pockets, darts and similar features, a

hole is often drilled through all the plies of fabric in the lay. The drill mounting includes

a motor, a base plate with a hole to allow the drill to pass through, and a spirit level to

ensure that the base is horizontal and hence the drill vertical. On many fabrics, the drill

is used cold and the hole remains visible until the sewing operator comes to use it. On


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looser weave fabrics, where the hole may close up, a hot drill is used which will slightly

scorch or fuse the edges of the hole. A hypodermic drill may be used which leaves a

small deposit of paint on each ply of fabric. If it is important that no mark remains on

the fabric, a long thread may be passed through the lay which is then cut with scissors

between each ply, leaving a few centimeters visible on each garment panel. All drill

holes must eventually be concealed by the construction of the garment.

Computer controlled cutting knives This method provides the most accurate

possible cutting, at high speed, and to keep the larger systems fully occupied they are

frequently used in a central cutting facility that supplies a number of separate sewing

factories. A typical computer cutting system has a table with a cutting surface

consisting of nylon bristles which support the fabric lays but are flexible enough to

permit penetration and movement of the knife blade which is supported only at the top.

The bristles also allow the passage of air through the table to create a vacuum,

reducing the height of the lay and holding it in place. The carriage supporting the

cutting head has two synchronised servomotors, which drive it on tracks on the edges

of the table. The cutting head contains a knife, automatic sharpener and a further servo

motor which rotates the knife to position it at a tangent to the line of cut on curves. A

sheet of airtight polyethylene covers the top of the lay, which assists the creation of a

vacuum and allows significant compression of the lay. Control cabinet houses the

computer and the electrical components required to drive the cutter, its carriage and

the vacuum motor.

The spreader spreads the lay on a conventional cutting table equipped with air

floatation. Paper is spread below the bottom ply so that the lay can be moved onto the

cutting table without distortion and so that the bottom plies are supported during thecutting operation. This paper is perforated to enable the vacuum on the cutting table to

operate to compress the lay. The cutting table does not need to be as long as the lay

and its bristle surface can consist of a conveyer which assists in the transfer of the lay,

in sections, from the spreading table and of the cut work onto the bundling tables.

Die Cutting Die cutting involves pressing of a rigid blade through the laid fabric. The

die is a knife in the shape of the pattern periphery, including notches. Free standing

dies generally fall into two categories. They can be of strip steel, manufactured by

bending the strip to the shape required and welding the joint. These cannot be

sharpened and must be replaced when worn. Alternatively, they can be heavier gauge,

forged dies which can be re-sharpened but which are five times the price of strip steel.They provide a high standard of accuracy of cutting but, because of the cost of the dies,

they are only appropriate to situations where large quantities of the same pattern will

be cut. Die cutting also offers much faster cutting than knife cutting for the same depth

of cut. It is proportionally more economic for small parts which have a greater periphery

in relation to their area.


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Straight knife Cloth CuttingMachine

KS-AU, Straight knife cloth cutting machine with

automatic abrasive belts sharpener, is the mostpopular cutting machine in the garment industry. It's

suitable for cutting all kinds of fabrics from thin tothick materials.

Features

1. Motor: The motor is an originally developed motor.It assures a smooth cutting operation with excellent

cutting power and low motor temperature.

2. Automatic Oil Lubrication Device: Oil can besupplied automatically from oil reservoir to the guide

metals and cross head. And the internal oil guardkeeps other interior parts clean.

3. Automatic Sharpening Device : There is anabrasive belt sharpening device. Just press down thesharpening lever, and the blade can be sharpened

automatically to maintain the most suitable edge ofthe blade.

4. Standard: Thinner and flat type standard makes

the resistance of cutting material lower, and biggerblade stroke makes cutting smoothly.

5. Base Plate: The base plate is low and the surface is

smooth to make the material travel on it smoothlybefore and after cutting.

6. Other: Fan-guard and starting switch cover are

equipped for safety reason.

7. Option: Knife Protector

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