Value Addition Finishes for Textiles - Textile Learner

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Value Addition Finishes for TextilesK V LokeshDepartment Of TextilesD. K. T. E. Society's Textile & Engineering Institute, IchalkaranjiEmail: [email protected]

Abstract

Textiles with desired functional and aesthetic properties have an evergreen demand among the consumers globally.Unless any product is characterized by value addition, it is now impossible to survive in this highly competitive worldmarket. Only innovative products will be sustainable to open up new markets and new horizons for textile industry.Manufacturers should now produce products to satisfy customers that are best in terms of quality and price.Customers today have a wide range of choices and the one who produces the best quality at a better competitiveprice will survive and prosper. Processing is important to make a usable but finishing gives better characteristicsand value addition to it. It makes textile material attractive, comfortable and finishing can incorporate desirableproperties. This paper represents a general overview of all value adding functional finish on textile material.

Key Words: Finishing, Mechanical, Thermo, Chemical, Special, etc..

1. IntroductionOnce again after a gap of two decades, the Indian Textile Industry appears to be on the horizon. With the advent ofrapid globalisation and liberalization, the Value Added Product has now become the Buzzword! Unless any product ischaracterized by value addition it is just impossible for it to stand in this highly competitive market. With the cominginto effect of the WTO, from 1st Jan 2005, stiff and fierce competition in the world Trade Market is just inevitable. Tocounter this challenge, one is left with no other alternative but to produce Value Added Product or hence just perish.This holds well in the textile sector, where the finishing technology holds the key. Gone are the days of conventional& traditional fabrics, which are superfed by high performance fabrics with speciality finishes. Indeed, these are thedays of research and development, where value added finishes need to be developed. Reforms in this directionought to be made to meet the challenges of the future not only in the domestic as well as in the International market.Customers seek value for money and the one who offers the best at a highly competitive price is going to surviveand prosper.

2. Classification of Textile FinishingFinishing of textile fabric is carried out to increase attractiveness and serviceability of the fabric. Differentfinishing treatments are available to get various effects, which add the value to the basic textile material. ValueAdding Textile finishes are classified as four types they are;

Mechanical finishes1.

Thermo-Mechanical finishes2.

Chemical finishes3.

Special finishes4.

2.1. Mechanical FinishesMechanical finishes imparts various properties to the fabric such as softness, peach skin effect, luster, bulkiness. Inthis respect various machines producing special finishes have been introduced by various manufacturing companies

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Raising

such as biancalani, santex, alliace.

2.1.1. Petra From Bianclani (Italy)/ Airo FinishThis is a continuous, modular, open width finishing machine for all types of woven fabrics; it produces smooth andpeach skin type finish, enhancing hand and volume through oscillating action of bars of abrasive stone. Theoscillating motion of the abrasive bars at a very high frequency against the surface of the fabric causes micro-fibrillation, techno-polishing and/or discoloring of the fabric without any affecting the strength of the fabric or cuttingit. This mechanical finish is a alternate to the enzyme finish but is faster and without fabric strength loss. Differentlooks such as classic look and casual look can be produced by adjustment of the movements and severity of thebars through varying pressure of contrast cylinders mounted below the bars. This machine consists of re-circulationsystem for water conservation, the user friendly control panel with computerized touch screen system with manualor automatic modes, which can control the fabric speed , pressure of contrast cylinders, depth of abrasion,re-circulation etc. The various special finishes such as discoloring effect on the denim fabric, smoothing, peach skineffect surface ageing on the cotton, viscose, lyocell, linen fabric can be produced.

2.1.2. Raising

Soft and Supple handle is one of those efficient tools which had donewonders in elaborating the definitions of value added requirements forfabric. Therefore Raising involves lifting up of fibres to a considerableheight so that there may be no disturbance in fabric construction.Machine required for this purpose involves fabric movement over acentral drum mounted with series of pile and counter pile rollers havingtheir movement in such a fashion that each fibres in lifted in a controlledmanner. This finishing work is used to create different feel & a velvetymaterial surface on fabrics & knitwear by loosening a large number ofindividual fibres from the fabric & subsequent rising & napping in order tocrest a dense raised fabric/surface.

2.1.3. Santasoft from Santex Peach FinishThis machine gives high-grade finish in open width form on woven & knitted. It increases the softness andsuppleness of the fabric. The fabric passes through a treatment zone in which the fabric is subjected to intensive‘tumbling’ action. It produces excellent finishes on the denims, cotton cord, pigment printed fabrics, linen and blends.

2.1.4. PhantimThis is supposed to be one of the novel effects which are present in the market to have value addition on to thefabric. In real terms it is practiced only on to the denim this is because one of the un-dyed and consequently resultsin considerable fading of colour due to extensive abrasion. Machine which is used for this purpose involves diamondpowder coated roller which results in the required degree of abrasion sufficient enough to fade the colour.Predetermined or desired design could be procured with the help of pneumatically operated needle shape nodeswhen in contact with the diamond powder coated roller results in fading of that portion. And movement of nodes aswell as rotation of the diamond powder coated roller is controlled with the help of computer which creates the designfinish meticulously with great precision & accuracy

2.2. Thermo-Mechanical FinishThis method of giving finishing to the fabric employs application of heat with regular mechanical forces to educenovel finishes. This finishes include the following:

2.2.1. CalendaringCalendering belongs to thermo-mechanical type of finish. Though this one of the old types of finishing method yet itholds sheer importance in finishing department. Here fabric is passed in an open width form over a series of


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consecutively roller placed vertically in such a manner that considerable amount of tension is provided to the fabric.Rollers over which fabric is placed is incorporated with steam which results in improving lustre of fabric aftercalendaring

2.2.2. Crush FinishThis is today’s most accepted form of finish by young generation especially in case of ladies wear like tops,dupattas and shirts. This finish can be obtained by incorporating high twisted yarn during weaving. The finish canalso be obtained in cotton blends, where POY (partially oriented yarn) is used along with cotton.

2.2.3. EmbossingThis type of finishing is only demanded for designer wear. It could be designed with the help of two rollers out ofwhich one roller being male having non designed part carved & other being female made up of either cotton or paper.During the course of passing fabric pressure which is applied by the male roller over female leads in engraving ofthe design. Application of design becomes stronger with sufficient amount of heat, which results in exquisite resultson the fabric & contributes in enhancing value of the fabric.

2.2.4. PinchingMachine which is used for pinching involves a die which can be simplified into a steel streaked model to press outstress & is able to change streaks very rapidly.

By running this steel streaked model and altering various functions of the computer, variety types of streaks can beignored. With the help of these types of machines designer streaks can be performed easily on synthetic fibresclothing apart from that it also used in tailored pattern in scarves, women clothing etc.

2.2.5. PleatingThis type of finish can be applied to procure pleating on to the fabric with the help of knives and rollers variouspleating effects could be derived by altering the types of knives and rollers. Apart from types of pleat, sequences,extent of different pleats and length of group and space pleats could be computer designed to get unlimited pleatvariation.

Here the finish mainly involves creation of very varied shapes & arrangements of folds on textiles using variousmachines. The term “pleat” comes from the French, and is used to describe material pressed into narrow folds.Various types of pleating machines fare involved.

Knife, squeezing & group pleating machine for the generation of wide range of patterns (less than 1mm)

Crystal pleating machines for the generation of vertical folds. (1-5mm fold height)

Accordion pleating machine for upstanding folds. (5-50mm)

2.3. Chemical Finishes

2.3.1. Snocool FinishWhen temperature rises, we tend to sweat. This is a natural reaction of our body to maintain the temperature around97 0f. The sweat when evaporates, takes along with it heat equivalent to heat of evaporation of water, therebymaintaining the temperature of the body. The snocool finish uses the moisture management route. This finishabsorbs & dissipates sweat evenly throughout & thus gives a cool feeling effect.

Recipe: Snocool SRB Liquid- 3 to 10gpl, Pad the material at 70 % expression - dry – cure at 180 0c for 30-45 sec.

2.3.2. U/V Protective FinishUltra violet light is usually defined as elctromagnetic radiation of wavelength between 4 & 400 nm.athe atmosphereabsorbs most of the harmful radiations , however, still part of these radiations reach earth’s surface.u/v absorbersare used to protect the skin from these u/v radiations.


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Recipe: Fabshield 50 plus 3.0 –5.0% (owf) applied by exhaust method UPF rating observed for this product is 50plus to 500 plus.

2.3.3. Micro Encapsulation FinishesDefinition of Microcapsule; in simple terms, Quest defines a capsule as “a miniature container that protects itscontents from evaporation, oxidation and contamination until its release is triggered by gentle rubbing or shaking.”During encapsulation, tiny droplets of benefit-laden products such as moisturizers, fragrances, deodorizers,vitamins, or repellents are wrapped with a protective coating to form a capsule.

Micro Encapsulation Finishes

2.3.4. Fragrance FinishThese are microencapsulated formulations of various fragrances like musk, rose, jasmine etc. Which are applied onthe fabric with the help of a binder? They impart fragrance when they applied in this fashion.

Recipe: Fragma – 1to5gpl, applied by pad dry cure at 170-180 0 c for 30-35 sec.

2.3.5. Mosquitoes Repellent FinishingAntimos MGL a mentho-glycol is a natural insect repellent active ingredient, derived from lemon eucalyptus, which isa natural & renewable source. Testing of Antimos mgl with a moderately aggressive cage population of aedesaegypti mosquitoes resulted in no bites up to at least 4 hours. This indicates that the product has unusualrepellency.

2.3.6. Bio –PolishingBio-Polishing is a treatment in which cotton fabric is treated with Cellulase Enzyme which removes the protrudingfibres from the fabric surface by hydrolysis reaction thereby giving soft feel to the fabric surface.

RECIPE: Cellusoft SO- 3to5gpl, at pH 5.5 , Temperature 55 0C,time 60-90 min after Completion of treatment timegive hot wash at 85 0C for 10 min.

2.4. Special Finishes

2.4.1. FlockingThese are surface finishing techniques for the comparatively inexpensive production of high quality suede, velvet,velour or imitation fur effects.

The main processes in flocking are as follows:

Application of adhesive: e.g. by squeegees, rollers, screens or spray methods.

Flock application

Drying: The drying conditions are dependent on the requirements of the particular bonding agent used.


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Fig:-Silver particle penetration image

Final treatment: removal of excess flocks by bruising with brush rollers together with a mechanical suctionunit.

According to the present state-of-the art, the following methods are used for flocking. Mechanical, Pneumatic,Electrostatic, Combination of mechanical / electrostatic, and Combination of pneumatic / electrostatic

2.4.2. Lisa FinishThis is a mechanical Finish, which involves the combination of damping, & Pitch Finishes. This Finish is widely giveto suiting’s, shirtings.in this finish the fabric is first moistened by damping machine then passed over the soft nylonbristles lisa rollers and finally it is passed over the emery rollers. The effect which obtained is completely differentthan the normal peach finish.

2.4.3. Nano FinishesThis technology inculcates the application of nano-sized particles of various chemicals in the finishing process oftextiles. For instance, ‘Silver fresh', antibacterial, deodorant material based on incorporation of silver particles.

This nanotech application of water-and-oil repellent finishing iseffective for use in natural fibers such as cotton, linen, wool and silk.Unsurpassed performance in durability and water and oil repellencymay be expected with natural fibres. Nano-Pel cotton withstands 50home launderings, with functionality levels well-maintained for waterand oil repellency even after 20 washes.


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Fig:-21st-century Fabric processing will face changes brought out by nanotechnology.

Water Repellent Finish, Mechanism of Stain Release,

2.4.4. Antimicrobial FinishMicrobes are minute organisms, which con be most dangerous for creating harm to our lifestyle in different ways. Soto make the environment healthy, hygienic and fresh, it becomes very important to have the control over growth ofthe microbes and for these the garments / fabrics should be treated with some specialty chemicals, which canrestrict the growth of these microorganisms. Antimicrobial finishing is one of the special types of finishing given tothe textiles where the chances of bacterial growth are high and the safety is paramount.

Recipe: Fabshield AEM 5700 0.5 % (For exhaust method)

Fabshield AEM 5700 7.0 gpl (For padding method)

Fabshield AEM 5700 2.0 % solution (For spray method)

2.4.5. Flame Retardant FinishFlame retardant finishing is not any finish used for textiles, but it is the need of an hour. The finished material is usednot only to produce garments but carpets, curtains, etc. which are used in public places like hotels, theatres etc. Theeffective flame proofing of the materials used in these areas are of paramount importance.

2.4.6. Thermocat Finishing

A finishing agent for producing heat retaining effect.

This type of finishing when applied to the fabric keeps it warm.

Produces heat retaining effect due to infrared radiation owing to its porosity.


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Especially suitable for 100% cellulose and its blends.

Recipe: Thermocat ACL- 30to100gpl Pad (with 80% pick-up), dry at 80°C and cure at 130°C for 2 min.

2.4.7. Ozone FadingOzone can react with aliphatic & aromatic bonds. For this reason it is possible to use ozone gas for anti-felting finishof wool, without treatment becoming economically significant. Polyester is easily damaged by ozone than polyamide,because polyester’s aromatic ring system can be easily oxidised & destroyed by the ozone. This could be termed asozone fading. The appearance of oxidative bleaching of blue, red & yellow disperse dyes caused by the effect ofatmospheric zone which is similar in appearance to gas fading. This effect is most common in acetate, triacetate &polyester dyes. Heat treatment of triacetate & polyester improves fastness to ozone fading. It can be prevented byusing anti-(oxidation) ozonate softening agent such as diphenylenediamine (also uses as gas fading inhibitor) &p-octylphenol (which has no gas fading inhibitor), which means that using the method detailed here, ozone fadingcan be prevented. The slight high cost of employing this finish is more than recovered with the improvement ofperformance characteristics of the denim garment. Furthermore, anti-ozonate could be a good “marketing” tool too.

2.4.8. Plasma TreatmentPlasma is the least organised collection of electrons and atomic nuclei, i.e. it is a mixture of these 2 components.The gaseous phase on the other hand, is characterized by the formation of atoms, the bonding of atomic nuclei &electrons. Plasma application to fibres: low plasma can be used to chemically change the fibre surface, which isachieved by polymer etching, oligomers are decomposed from the fibre surface in an inert gas plasma according tothe following mechanism (on polyester fibres). In longer treatment (1min) and high power input (in watts) the etchingis associated with a index and apparently darker colouring.

Conclusion:Globalisation has opened the doors to competition at the highest level. Every industry must now produce productsthose are best in terms of quality & price. Customers now have a wide variety of choices in each price range & onewho offers the best at a competitive price will survive & prosper. For the Indian Textile Industry, challenges are evengreater. Technologically speaking in the textile processing industry there is still a lot to ask for. The thrust areas intextiles, in the coming years will very much center on: Process optimization through improved shorter durationprocesses i.e. efficient & effective processes, Customized solutions, Value addition, Global competitiveness: highstandards of quality at lowest possible cost, and Eco awareness.

References

K.K.Sonue & M.G.Labhe,1982,Colourage,vol.29 p271.

Buschle-Diller & Yang ,2001,Textile Research Journal,p 3882.

D.P.chakraborty & J.K.sharma , 1999, Indian J.Fibre & Textile Res. Vol.24,p1203.

R.Venkatraj , 1987,PHD thesis , IIT , New Delhi ,p 404.

R.M.Mittal ,M.L.Gulrajni,1988,Amer.Dyes.Rep.vol.77,p 205.

M.Prabharan,r.c.nayer & J.V.Rao ,2000,Text.Rresearch J. Vol .21,p 196.

J.w.Rucker , 1989, Text.chemist & Colorist,vol.70 ,p6577.

Edward Menezes , nov.2003, National Textile Conference ,p 14-15. 8.


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Value Addition Finishes for Textiles - Textile Learner

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