USTER ZWEIGLE HL400 · Fine yarn 80 1352 2375 286 33 7 0 40 2.03 0.46 Medium yarn 50 1103 3578 462...

S. Dönmez Kretzschmar, T. Nasiou September 2011 SE 663

USTER® ZWEIGLE HL400 APPLICATION REPORT Different applications of hairiness length classification THE YARN PROCESS CONTROL SYSTEM

2 (16) USTER® ZWEIGLE HL400

THE YARN PROCESS CONTROL SYSTEM

Editorial Team: Ellen Liu R. Nellaiappan Gabriela Peters Dr. Serap Dönmez Kretzschmar Thomas Nasiou © Copyright 2011 by Uster Technologies AG. All rights reserved. All and any information contained in this document is non-binding. The supplier reserves the right to modify the products at any time. Any liability of the supplier for damages resulting from possible discrepancies between this document and the characteristics of the products is explicitly excluded. veronesi\TT\Schulung_Dokumente\Off-Line\Zweigle\SE-663_Different applications of hairiness length classification

USTER® ZWEIGLE HL400 3 (16)


Contents

1 Introduction ........................................................................................................................ 4

2 Influence on hairiness ........................................................................................................ 5

3 Trials ................................................................................................................................... 6

3.1 Trial methodology ................................................................................................................. 6

3.2 The impact of yarn count (Chinese spinning mill) ................................................................. 7

3.3 The impact of twist (German spinning mill) ........................................................................... 8

3.4 The impact of traveller weight (Indian and Chinese spinning mills) ....................................... 9

3.5 Compact spinning: The impact of off-centered roving guide (Indian spinning mill) .............. 11

3.6 Compact spinning: The impact of clogged compacting elements and compacting zone (Chinese and Indian spinning mills) .................................................................................... 12

3.7 Compact spinning: The impact of suction under-pressure (Indian and German spinning mill)14

4 Conclusion ........................................................................................................................ 15

5 Literature ........................................................................................................................... 15



1 Introduction The two hairiness systems USTER® and Zweigle have been on the market for more than 20 years. Both are well established systems and both are now available from Uster Technologies. The systems provide complementary data and both are needed in any spinning mill interested in op-timizing quality, reducing costs and increasing efficiency. The USTER® principle is ideally suited as industry benchmarks, the USTER® STATISTICS. The Zweigle principle provides further valuable data in the laboratory which, along with the USTER® laboratory data, allows for a complete analysis and optimization of efficiency in a spinning mill. The USTER® ZWEIGLE HL400 and the USTER® TESTER 5 with OH module provide the comprehensive and perfectly-integrated solution for all hairiness testing requirements. Table 1 shows a comparison of both measuring methods. Comparison of two measuring systems Measuring Principle Measuring Principle

USTER® TESTER 5 USTER® ZWEIGLE HL400 • The protruding fibers produce a scattered light in the measuring

zone. • The yarn body is not transparent and appears as a black line on

the receiver side • The length of the measuring zone is 10 mm • The hairiness H is equal to the total length of the protruding

fibers in the measuring zone of 10 mm

The system is based on counting the individual fibers and their respective lengths which protrude from the yarn body • The length classes are 1, 2, 3, 4, 6, 8 and 10 mm (number

of protruding fibers per 100 m) • The most popular value is S3, which is the sum of all fibers

3 mm and longer per 100 m. • The HL400 automatically identifies the yarn body and cali-

brates itself before each measurement • The HL400 uses the same measuring principle of the Zwei-

gle G567 and the USTER® ZWEIGLE HAIRINESS TESTER 5

Application range and benefits of Sensor OH (inte-grated in the UT5)

Application range and benefits of Hairiness length classification HL400

• Comparison with benchmarks including USTER® STATISTICS • Yarn profiling and yarn trading • Identifies periodical faults • Continuously monitors mill hairiness levels • Early warning system in production • Indicator of hand/feel of a finished product

• Yarn engineering • Control of new spinning machine settings • Overall maintenance of spinning machines, especially

compact spinning systems • Identifies long protruding fibers which cause pilling • Allows weavers and knitters to get an idea how yarn will

perform in production along with its effects on consumable parts

• Monitoring of the life cycle of ring travelers

Table 1 Comparison of two measuring systems



2 Influence on hairiness The hairiness length classification gives valuable information, especially in regard to the overall per-formance level of the compacting system, as well as the hairiness variation from spindle to spindle or from spinning position to spinning position (OE rotor and airjet spinning). For example, excessive fly in the spinning department could lead to clogged filters, which results a compacting system with lower compacting efficiency. When this happens to a section of the spinning machine, especially the value for the longer fibers, i.e. the S3 value, will be affected. The number of longer fibers will increase ac-cordingly. The USTER® ZWEIGLE HL400 is a vital instrument for monitoring and controlling the over-all performance level of the compacting system at the ring spinning frame. In Table 2, the origin of faults in various yarn production stages related to excessive hairiness and hairiness variations is given. EXCESSIVE HAIRINESS Origin of Faults Possible Reasons Raw material Fiber length

Length uniformity

Excessive short fiber content

Spinning preparation, spinning and winding Roving twist

Age and type of rings & ring travelers (ring spinning)

Damaged or worn travelers

Improper traveler weights

Traveler changes

Condition of rings

Eccentricity of spindles & rings

Spinning tension (ring spinning)

Yarn twist

Slipping spindle belts

Damaged pigtail guides

Improperly centered pigtail guides

Full bobbin diameter

Yarn twist

Separator slap

Improperly positioned or missing anti-balloon rings

Spindle speed

Spindle speed curve

Damaged cots

Variation of spinning climate

Table 2 The origin of faults related to excessive hairiness and hairiness variations



The new hairiness length classification system, the USTER® ZWEIGLE HL400, offered by Uster Technologies, is the result of the outstanding improvements in yarn testing. The most striking features of the new USTER® ZWEIGLE HL400 are its speed and the guaranteed USTER® accuracy. This application report aims to explain the hairiness length classification system and its application in order to be able to fully understand this method and use it at its full extent. 3 Trials 3.1 Trial methodology As it is mentioned previously, the hairiness length classification gives valuable information about the overall performance level of the compacting system, as well as the impact of various spinning ma-chine elements on the hairiness variation. In order to demonstrate these relationships, 34 different, 100% cotton, combed, compact yarns of various yarn counts, in forms of bobbins were specially pro-duced at different spinning mills in China, India and Germany. All the samples were tested with the USTER® ZWEIGLE HL400 and the USTER® TESTER 5 with OH module at the Uster Technologies Textile Laboratory and the test results were evaluated and demon-strated with the help of tables and graphs. In all tables, 8 mm and 10 mm hairiness length classes are omitted, because in most cases, there were only a few protruding fibers at these classes. Most of the application samples show a comparison of a specially produced test yarn illustrating various faults and a reference yarn.



3.2 The impact of yarn count (Chinese spinning mill) Yarn count affects many physical yarn parameters as well as hairiness. As it is well-known, the hairi-ness of coarse yarns is higher than the hairiness of fine yarns, because the probability of protruding fibers is higher with more fibers in the cross-section. In order to show the relationship between yarn count and hairiness, three different 100% cotton, compact yarns, Ne 32, Ne 50 and Ne 80 in forms of bobbins were produced at a Chinese spinning mill. The test results (Table 3) and related figures (Fig. 1 and Fig. 2) are given below.

Yarn Count (Ne)

Nominal twist [1/m]*

1 mm

2 mm

3 mm

4 mm

6 mm

S3 H sh

Chinese spinning mill

Fine yarn 80 1352 2375 286 33 7 0 40 2.03 0.46

Medium yarn 50 1103 3578 462 47 11 1 59 2.30 0.53

Coarse yarn 32 855 5726 825 91 25 2 118 2.95 0.67

Table 3 The USTER® ZWEIGLE HL400 and the USTER® TESTER 5 hairiness results *[ 1/m] = Turns per meter (TPM).

Fig. 1 The USTER® ZWEIGLE HL400 test results (S3 values per 100m)

Fig. 2 The USTER® TESTER 5 test results (H (red) and sh values (green))

Conclusion: The analysis of test results confirms that (Table 3) the hairiness of coarse yarns is higher than the hairiness of fine yarns. In Fig. 1, Ne 32 has the highest and Ne 80 has the lowest number of protrud-ing number of fibers. Hairiness results of the USTER® TESTER 5 are also showing the same trend (Fig. 2). This result will also show up if the twist is kept constant.



3.3 The impact of twist (German spinning mill)

The amount of twist placed in a staple spun yarn is important from a technical viewpoint because of its effect on physical properties and performance, and on finished product appearance. It has an effect on fabric luster, hand, weight and strength. It is also im-portant from a production standpoint because with every turn of twist there is an accompanying reduction in productivity and an increase in cost. The reduction of twist increases the hairiness because the number of protruding fibers increases. At the same time the yarn hairiness can be reduced to a certain extent by in-creasing the twist.

Fig. 3 Yarns with S-twist and Z-twist However, there are limitations or specific requirements concerning the twist or the twist multiplier in regard of the end-use of a fabric. In order to show the relationship between twist and hairiness, three different yarns, Ne 24, 100% cot-ton, combed, in forms of bobbins were produced and tested. The test results (Table 4) and related figures (Fig. 4 and Fig. 5) are given below:

Yarn Count (Ne)

Twist [1/m]*

1 mm

2 mm

3 mm

4 mm

6 mm

S3 H sh

Twist values

Low 24 727 10859 1727 213 60 4 277 4.97 1.20

Medium 24 822 9711 1452 165 43 3 211 4.67 1.10

High 24 917 9323 1348 138 41 3 181 4.53 1.06

Table 4 The USTER® ZWEIGLE HL400 and the USTER® TESTER 5 hairiness results *[ 1/m] = Turns per meter (TPM).

Fig. 4 The USTER® ZWEIGLE HL400 test results (S3 values)

Fig. 5 The USTER® TESTER 5 test results (H (red) and sh values (green))

Conclusion: The analysis of test results confirms that (Table 4) the increase of twist decreases the hairiness be-cause the number of protruding fibers decreases. In Fig. 4, the yarn with the lowest twist value (727 [1/m]) has the highest and the yarn with the highest twist value (917 [1/m]) has the lowest number of protruding fibers (Fig. 4). Hairiness results of the USTER® TESTER 5 are also showing the same trend (Fig. 5), low twist yarn has a hairiness value of 4.97 and high twist yarn has a hairiness value of 4.53.



3.4 The impact of traveller weight (Indian and Chinese spinning mills)

In recent years, several investigations have been car-ried out on the impact of the ring traveller and specifi-cally its weight on various yarn parameters. In many studies, was observed that yarn hairiness generally de-creased as the traveller weight was increased, regard-less of the traveler profile or the traveler’s finishing. To demonstrate the relationship between traveler weight and hairiness, two different, 100% cotton, com-pact yarns, Ne 40 and Ne 100, in forms of bobbins were produced at an Indian and a Chinese spinning mill. The test results (Table 5) and related figures (Fig. 7 and Fig. 8) are given below.

Fig. 6 The impact of traveller weight [1]

Yarn Count (Ne)

Nomial twist [1/m]

1 mm

2 mm

3 mm

4 mm

6 mm

S3 H sh


Machine B

Heavier traveller (3/0)

40 850 5977 935 118 33 2 153 2.97 0.68

Reference traveller (4/0)

40 850 6287 978 128 36 3 167 2.90 0.68

Lighter traveller (6/0)

40 850 6926 1228 193 55 5 253 3.07 0.71

Indian spinning mill

Machine B

Heavier traveller (18/0)

100 1600 3890 502 70 16 1 86 2.18 0.55

Reference traveller (20/0)

100 1600 4139 532 59 14 1 74 2.16 0.55

Lighter traveller (22/0)

100 1600 4062 569 59 16 1 76 2.15 0.54

Table 5 The USTER® ZWEIGLE HL400 and the USTER® TESTER 5 hairiness results



Fig. 7 The USTER® ZWEIGLE HL400 (Percentage values of S3 results)

Fig. 8 The USTER® TESTER 5

(Percentage values of H results) Conclusion: The analysis of test results confirms that (Table 5) the increase of traveller weight decreases the hair-iness because the number of protruding fibers decreases. With Nec100 and because of the reduced number of fibers in the yarn cross-section, the hairiness difference is not significant anymore, moreo-ver because the yarns are compact. In Fig. 7, in both yarn counts, the samples produced with a lighter traveller have the highest hairiness. As an example, regarding that the S3 value of Ne 40 yarn pro-duced with reference traveller (4/0) is equal to 100%, the sample yarn produced with a lighter traveller (6/0) will be 151% (Fig. 7, blue color). This is also valid for the USTER® TESTER 5 results (Fig. 8).



3.5 Compact spinning: The impact of off-centered roving guide (Indian spinning mill)

Fig. 9 demonstrates an off-centered roving guide. This fault affects yarn spinning triangle and accordingly compact spinning process in a negative way. In order to show the impact of off-centered roving guide on the yarn hairiness, two different 100% cotton, compact yarns, Ne 80 and Ne 100, in forms of bobbins were pro-duced at an Indian spinning mill. For every yarn count, a reference yarn is compared with a test compact yarn which illustrates off-centered roving guide fault. The test results (Table 6) and related figures (Fig. 10 and Fig. 11) are given below.

Fig. 9 Impact of off-centered roving guide

Yarn Count (Ne)

Nomial twist [1/m]

1 mm

2 mm

3 mm

4 mm

6 mm

S3 H sh


Machine A

Reference yarn 80 1350 6455 750 79 18 1 98 2.60 0.63

Test yarn 80 1350 7588 990 132 28 2 162 2.88 0.71

Machine B

Reference yarn 100 1600 3664 468 55 13 1 69 2.06 0.51

Test yarn 100 1600 4554 703 82 23 2 108 2.24 0.57


Fig. 10 S3 difference (%) between the test yarn and the reference yarn

Fig. 11 H and sh differences (%) between the test yarn and the reference yarn

Conclusion: Test results (Table 6) show that the test yarns which were produced with off-centered guide have more number of protruding fibers nearly in all hairiness length classes as well as S3 hairiness length class. For example, the reference yarn has only 98 protruding fibers, whereas the test yarn produced at the machine type A has 162 protruding fibers at S3 length class (Table 6, Machine A), which shows an increase of 65% (Table 7, Fig. 10, Machine A). The same trend can be also observed in USTER® TESTER 5 results, for the same test yarn, the hairiness (H) difference is 11% and (sh) difference is +13% (Table 6, Fig. 11, Machine A).



3.6 Compact spinning: The impact of clogged compacting elements and compact-ing zone (Chinese and Indian spinning mills)

During compact yarn production, the air suction area (Fig. 12) in the compacting zone can become clogged for a variety of reasons. This affects the spinning pro-cess in a negative way. To demonstrate the impact of clogged compacting zone and clogged compacting elements, four different 100% cotton, compact yarns, Ne 40, Ne 40, Ne 80 and Ne 100, in forms of bobbins were produced at a Chinese and an Indian spinning mill. For every yarn count, a ref-erence yarn is compared with a test compact yarn which illustrates a clogged compacting zone or a com-pacting element. The test results (Table 7 and related figures (Fig. 13 and Fig. 14) are given below.

Fig. 12 Impact of clogged compacting zone

Yarn Count (Ne)

Nominal twist [1/m]

1 mm

2 mm

3 mm

4 mm

6 mm

S3 H sh

Clogged compacting element


Machine B

Reference yarn 40 850 6287 978 128 36 3 167 2.90 0.68

Test yarn 40 850 7663 1384 185 61 5 252 3.34 0.74

Clogged compacting zone


Machine B

Reference yarn 40 850 6287 978 128 36 3 167 2.90 0.68

Test yarn 40 850 9331 1901 317 108 11 437 3.77 0.83


Machine A

Reference yarn 80 1338 4994 455 42 7 0 50 2.46 0.60

Test yarn 80 1338 8462 1532 263 75 7 345 3.30 0.93

Machine B

Reference yarn 100 1600 3846 532 53 15 1 68 2.07 0.52

Test yarn 100 1600 6555 1162 132 51 5 188 2.41 0.58




Fig. 13 S3 difference (%) between the test yarn and the reference yarn

Fig. 14 H (red) differences (%) between the test yarn and the reference yarn

Conclusion: Test results (Table 7) show that the compact yarn produced with a clogged compact zone has more number of protruding fibers nearly in all hairiness length classes as well as S3 hairiness length class. For example, the reference yarn Ne 80 has only 50 protruding fibers, whereas the test yarn produced at the machine type A has 345 protruding fibers at S3 length class (Table 7, Machine A, Indian spin-ning mill), which shows an increase of 590% (Table 7, Fig. 13, Ne 80, Machine A, Indian spinning mill). The same trend can be also observed in the USTER® TESTER 5 results, for the same test yarn, the hairiness (H) difference is +34% and (sh) difference is +55% (Fig. 14, Ne 80, Machine A, Indian spinning mill). As we have mentioned previously, both systems provide complementary data. This is a perfect example for this. In addition to numerical values, the spectrogram of the USTER® TESTER 5 shows a more intensive influence on the hairiness periodicity at 5 to 7 m depending on the ring spin-ning machine type. This periodicity is caused by the ring rail movement (Fig. 15 and Fig. 16).

Fig. 15 Reference yarn (Ne 80, Indian spinning mill, Machine A)

Fig. 16 Impact of clogged compacting zone:

Test yarn (Ne 80, Indian spinning mill, Machine A)



3.7 Compact spinning: The impact of suction under-pressure (Indian and German spinning mill)

In aerodynamic compacting systems, the compacting process of the fiber strand takes place with help of the perforated drums or aprons. Perforated drums or aprons generate airflow from outside into the interior of the drum. The air current generated by the vacuum in the perforated drum enables the fi-bers to be compacted efficiently following the main draft. For this reason, the amount of suction pres-sure is very important for the compacting process. A decrease in the suction pressure can affect hair-iness properties of the yarn [2]. In order to demonstrate the impact of air suction on the yarn hairiness, three different 100% cotton, compact yarns, Ne 20, Ne 80 and Ne 100, in forms of bobbins were pro-duced. The test results are given below (Table 8, Fig. 17 and Fig. 18).

Yarn Count (Ne)

Nomial twist [1/m]

1 mm

2 mm

3 mm

4 mm

6 mm

S3 H Sh

German spinning mill

Machine C

-5 mb suction 20 728 14411 2388 357 101 9 467 5.00 1.18

- 25 mb suction 20 728 16040 2720 469 146 13 629 5.40 1.28

Machine A

Reference suction 80 1338 5128 638 92 20 1 113 2.33 0.58

Low suction 80 1338 5390 977 150 51 5 206 2.82 0.81


Machine B

Normal suction 100 1600 4536 600 84 21 1 106 2.25 0.58

Lower suction motor power 100 1600 5577 821 121 29 2 151 2.21 0.58


Fig. 17 The USTER® ZWEIGLE HL400 test results (S3 values)

Fig. 18 The USTER® TESTER 5 test results

(H (red) and sh values (green)) Conclusion: In this trial, Ne 20, Ne 80 and Ne 100, 100% compact yarns were produced and a reference compact yarn is compared to a test compact yarn which is produced with less suction. Test results (Table 8) show that the yarn produced with is produced with less suction has more number of protruding fibers nearly in all hairiness length classes as well as S3 hairiness length class (Fig. 17 and Fig. 18). The same trend can be seen at the USTER® TESTER for the hairiness value. As a result of a reduced number of fibers in the yarn cross-section of the fine yarn Ne 100 with mostly different raw material the hairiness difference is not significant anymore.



4 Conclusion A precise analysis of yarn hairiness is vital for many textile applications, as hairiness has a significant influence on both the appearance and durability of fabrics, as well as an impact on the productivity and efficiency of subsequent processing stages. It is a fact that 15% of unacceptable fabric defects, for example pilling, are caused by hairiness variations. The two hairiness systems described in this paper have been on the market for more than 20 years. Both are well established systems and both are now available from Uster Technologies. The measurement of USTER® and Zweigle hairiness sys-tems allow yarn producers to be in full control of the yarn quality. The new hairiness length classification system, the USTER® ZWEIGLE HL400, offered by Uster Technologies, is the result of the outstanding improvements in yarn testing. The system offers the S3 value, the numbers of protruding fibers at 3 mm and longer, which is the main quality benchmark for compact-spun yarn. The most striking feature of the new USTER® ZWEIGLE HL400 is its speed. The system operates at 400 m/min, compared to the 50 m/min throughput of the previous Zweigle system. The USTER® ZWEIGLE HL400 has a fix testing speed of 400 m/min which is 8 times faster than the previous standard of 50 m/min. The customer benefit is faster reaction to test results, because tests of 10 cones need less than 15 min instead of 60 min with the current generation. The USTER® ZWEIGLE HL400 fits therefore well in the testing cycle of an USTER® TESTER and USTER® TENSORAPID or USTER® TENSOJET. The USTER® principle is ideally suited as industry benchmarks, the USTER® STATISTICS. The Zweigle principle provides further valuable data in the laboratory which, along with the USTER® labor-atory data, allows for a complete analysis and optimization of efficiency in a spinning mill. The USTER® ZWEIGLE HL400 and the USTER® TESTER 5 with OH module provide the comprehen-sive and perfectly-integrated solution for all hairiness testing requirements and both are needed in any spinning mill interested in optimizing quality, reducing costs and increasing efficiency. 5 Literature

1. Lawrence, C.,A. (Editor), “Advances in Yarn Spinning Technology”, Woodhead Publishing Lim-ited,2010.

2. Singh R.P., V K Kothari, “Different technologies to spin compact yarns”, The Indian Textile Jour-nal, August 2007.

3. Lawrence, C.,A., “Fundamentals of Spun Yarn Technology”, CRC Press LLC, 2003.

4. Lord, P. R., “Handbook of Yarn Production: Technology, Science and Economics”, Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2005.

5. USTER® ZWEIGLE HL400 Application Handbook: “Hairiness length classification”, V1.1, 470104-40020, June 2011.

6. USTER® ZWEIGLE TWIST TESTER 5 Application Handbook: “Twist measurement”, V1.0, 621 106-04020, September 2009



Uster Technologies AG Sonnenbergstrasse 10 CH-8610 Uster / Switzerland Phone +41 43 366 36 36 Fax +41 43 366 36 37 www.uster.com [email protected]

USTER ZWEIGLE HL400 · Fine yarn 80 1352 2375 286 33 7 0 40 2.03 0.46 Medium yarn 50 1103 3578 462...

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