UNIT LDC 3 CLASSIFY ITEMS AND MAKE UP LOADS FOR … · Drycleaning Technology Centre Unit 10a Drill...

Drycleaning Technology CentreUnit 10a Drill Hall Business Centre, East Parade,

Ilkley, West Yorkshire, LS29 8EZ, United KingdomTel: +44(0) 1943 816545, Fax: +44(0) 1943 609326, Email: [email protected]

DRYCLEANING TECHNOLOGY CENTREILKLEY, WEST YORKSHIRE

©2009 LTC&DTC Limited

UNIT LDC 3

CLASSIFY ITEMS AND MAKE UP LOADS FOR CLEANING

DRYCLEANING OPERATORWORK BOOK

ENTER THE DRYCLEANER’S NAME HERE

ISSUED TO

ENTER EMPLOYEE NAME HERE

DATE: ENTER DATE ISSUED HERE

DRYCLEANING OPERATOR WORKBOOKLDC3 Classify and make-up loads for cleaning

NVQ 2 – Drycleaning Operations © 2009LTC&DTC Limited of 37



INDEX

TABLE OF CONTENTS

UNIT LDC 3 – CLASSIFY ITEMS AND MAKE UP LOADS FOR CLEANING

Section Contents/Subject Page

1 Checking & Handling Items before Cleaning 4

2 Types of Trimming & Accessories & How to Deal With Them 7

3 Garment Construction 9

4 Foreign Bodies & Lost Property 12

5 Garment Marking & Identification 13

6 Classification 15

7 Care Labels 20

8 Weighing Scales 27

9 Identification of Work Sequence 29

10 Health & Safety 30

11 Foul & Infected Linen 32

12 Unsuitable Items 33

APPENDIX

1 Unit Standard: Classify Items and Make up Loads for Drycleaning 34



UNIT LDC 3CLASSIFY ITEMS AND MAKE UP LOADS FOR CLEANING

1. CHECKING AND HANDLING ITEMS BEFORE CLEANING

The garment type and fabric must be checked for suitability for processing.

The main tool used to establish this is the care label and this is dealt with in moredetail later.

The garment and fabric suitability for drycleaning or washing is, however, not onlyjudged on the care label; other factors need to be considered:

1.1. AgeOlder, even antique, items are regularly submitted for laundering or drycleaning.Older items can become frail with age due to atmospheric conditions causingoxidation or from sunlight damage or other factors including rot, mildew,infestation with moths, insects and their larvae. If the soiling is old, the soilingmay have oxidised and weakened the fibres, particularly on silk.

1.2. ConditionIf the item is in poor condition, damaged or fragile, it may be damaged evenfurther in processing. These items should be avoided. Alternatively thecustomer should be offered a repair service or the condition pointed out to thecustomer at the counter and “owner’s risk” obtained. Failure to do this can resultin a dispute and claim from the customer.

1. Why must care be taken with old or vintage clothing?

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1.3. Accessories, beads, feathers and trimsManufacturers have a responsibility to correctly label agarment with care instructions.Generally speaking, with a fewexceptions, this is done responsibly.There can be issues, however, withaccessories, beading and trims.

Belts, buttons, buckles, sequins,feathers, beads, leather and other trimsneed special attention and care in bothlaundering and drycleaning.

Beads in particular can be dissolved in some solvents andshould be tested prior to cleaning.



Large buttons, especially those made from shell, mother of pearl, horn andbone as well as large or unusual belt buckles should be protected either byplacing the item in a net bag or pillowcase or by covering them with cloth.

Leather trim is particularly prone to dye loss and therefore care should beexercised with light coloured garments with a dark leather trim. If there is a riskwith the trim, then the item should not be processed or “owners risk” should beobtained.

1.4. PVC and RubberSome solvents will damage PVC and rubber. Items made from these materialsor with trims made from PVC or rubber should therefore be avoided.If you accept any such items for drycleaning, the item (or trims) should betested with the solvent you will be using in the same way you would test forcolour fastness.

1.5. Type of staining presentVery heavily stained items may not be suitable for drycleaning. This isparticularly the case for items heavily contaminated with body fluids that arehanded in for drycleaning.

Department of Health Guidance HSG(95)18 does not give any process for itemslabelled ‘dryclean only’, that are heavily contaminated with body fluids. This isbecause these items may be infective and drycleaning will not disinfect them.The solvent could also become infected and might contaminate subsequentgarments processed.

If a heavily blood stained item is presented for drycleaning, perhaps with a knifeor bullet hole in the centre, the launderer or drycleaner could become involvedin a police investigation.

1.6. MoistureItems that are damp – especially if they contain any wool or other hair fibre -should be dried in a warm area prior to cleaning. If too much moisture isallowed to enter the drycleaning machine, this will cause excessive shrinkage ofwoolen items. It will also cause greying of white and pastel coloured textiles,because the moisture will attract any water soluble soiling from the solvent.

1.7. Leather and FurThere are many types of leather used in garment manufacture. Pig, sheep,

cow, buffalo, snake, crocodile and kangaroo aresome of the animals whose skins are cured andused to make garments.Similarly, there are several types of tanningprocess (eg chrome-tanning and vegetabletanning) and several different colouring processesused to make leather.

Leather will usually lose some colour and texture during drycleaning.Professional leather cleaners compensate for these changes by enhancing the



remaining colour and by restoring any of the original tanner’s oils lost indrycleaning.

Fur garments present potential problems similar to those of leather and thevalue of fur garments is generally very high. In recent years, however, this typeof garment has become less common and is very seldom seen by the textilecare industry with the exception of garments with fur trims. Fur-trimmedgarments still require very skilled handling because they will need specialprocedures and they therefore represent greater risk.

With leather and fur garments, particular care must be taken with seams andcollar assemblies, because these might be glued together as well as stitched.In drycleaning these glues may sometimes be removed totally, or softened sothat they migrate through the skin to the surface. This can cause localisedstiffening and staining, changing the colour of the skin and irreversiblydamaging the item.

In most cases these items are referred for a ‘specialist clean’ and may beprocessed off-site by a specialist sub-contractor, skilled in handling anddrycleaning leather and suede items.



2. TYPES OF TRIMMINGS AND ACCESSORIES AND HOW TO DEAL WITH THEM

2.1. BeadsDrycleaners rarely melt beads by heat. The drycleaning machine should never get hot enough tomelt most modern plastics, but solvent will dissolveor soften many types of plastic. This softening issometimes referred to as “melting”.

Many beads on the market are not drycleanable.Even beads used by wedding gown manufacturersare often not designed to be drycleaned (whateverit may say on the label). To determine the"drycleanability" of any plastic beads on a garmentsent for drycleaning, it is best to request one loose bead of each kind that is onthe item so that they can be immersed in solvent prior to drycleaning the wholegarment. Obviously if the bead or trim softens, melts or transfers colour they willhave to be removed before the garment is cleaned.

Many plastic beads have an outer coating which is "solvent proof", but thiscoating is rendered useless when the bead surface is pierced or the surface isdamaged. The solvent may enter through the thread hole and dissolve the beadfrom the inside out, leaving a sad, wrinkled shell where a plump, pearly beadused to be. The only way to test for this kind of bead is to immerse it in solventand examine it carefully afterwards. The British Standard method of test for abead uses 30 minutes immersion in perchloroethylene followed by squashing itbetween two pieces of cotton cloth. If it collapses or sticks to the cloth, it is notdrycleanable in this solvent.

Small glass or semi precious stone beads may be drycleaned. Large glass orsemi precious stone beads and drops should be removed before cleaning, asthey can crack and chip in the tumbling process when the cleaned items arebeing dried. Metal beads will often tarnish slightly in the cleaning process.

2.2. Trim and FabricWhen cleaning fabrics with trims, check the care label. Then test the trim andfabric for colourfastness to solvent, in an unobtrusive location. You need toconfirm that any trims, appliqué or motifs don’t dissolve or transfer colour.

Upholstery braid is very popular for trimming ‘period attire’and may shrink when dry cleaned the first time.Some trims and fabrics are not dye-fast in solvent, andcan bleed onto surrounding and adjacent fabrics.

This is particularly common when the fabric is a strongcolour contrast to the trim or other fabric used to make theitem, or the fabric is white and the trim is a bright orintense color.



If you are not certain if the garment is "dry-cleanable" TEST IT FIRST.

2. When classifying an antique silk wedding dress how might you handle thisgarment differently to a modern silk wedding dress?

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3. Which items should be avoided for drycleaning?

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4. Which types of textile might be damaged by solvent?

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5. What special care is taken with beads?

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6. In your workplace what items would you separate out to be cleaned by a contractorand why?

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3. GARMENT CONSTRUCTION

This section details how a tailored suit jacket is constructed. A tailored suit jacket is themost complex item a drycleaner encounters in terms of its construction. It is made upfrom many components including the outer cloth, lining, interfacing, hair canvas andpadding especially to the shoulder area.

3.1. Trousers, coats, skirts, blouses, shirts and dresses are constructed in a similarway but generally with fewer components. Therefore for the purpose of this unitwe will concentrate on the tailored suit jacket.

The diagram opposite detailsthe terms used to identify thedifferent parts of a suit jacket.

This is followed by the internalcomponents of theconstruction.

There are many componentsthat are made from a range ofdifferent materials. These canbe natural materials such ashorse hair or be synthetic such

as the shoulder wedges (foam) and silesia (padding).

3.2. Each of the components used in the manufacture of a jacket can reactdifferently to cleaning and each will have a different potential for shrinkage. Alsothe method of application will have an effect on the item durability. Padding andinterfacing can be sewn in or more commonly fused (glued) to the othercomponents using a combination of heat, time and pressure.

If the item is not stitched in place correctly, or the interfacing is not suitable orcorrectly fused, this can cause problems for the cleaner.

Care must be taken when cleaning a garment to ensure the process is suitablefor the care label and that the use of spotting chemicals does not affect theinternal construction or trims.

3.3. These are some of the pieces thatmake up the "canvas" which issandwiched between the lining andthe garment outer fabric. The purposeof the ‘canvas’ is to produce and holdthe shape of the garment even if it isnot exactly the same shape as thewearer.

3.4. The foundation of the canvas is alarge piece of fabric known as "haircanvas" that is cut to the shape of thefront and then various locations are



slashed and either pulled together or spread apart to provide the three-dimensional shaping.

The pieces A, B and C are stitched or fused using heat, time and pressure infront or behind the slits to hold them in the forced positions. A spreads theshoulder edge to provide the beautiful curve to the shoulder. B and C shape thechest and pinch the waist.

The shoulder wedges can be seen peeking out from under the bottom of theshoulder. These are also stretched and shaped to provide proper shouldercurves.

3.5. The haircloth goes over the chest area to provide extra shape and firmness.Both hair cloth and hair canvas contain hair from the manes and tails ofhorses or similar coarse fibres. This makes the garment portions very pliableand easily shaped under steam pressure so it retains this shape after pressing.The difference between the two is the amount of hair in the fabric; The hair clothhas about 5 times as much hair as the hair canvas.

Wearing a "hair-shirt" is considered a way of someone ‘doing- penance’. Thehair feels more like wire scratching on the skin than fine thread and this makesthe hair-shirt most uncomfortable. We obviously do not want this hair stickingthrough the fabric in our tailored garments so the hair cloth or canvas and all itsexposed edges, are covered with the flannel and Silesia padding.

3.6. This photo also shows how the shoulder pad is installedbetween the canvas and the garment fabric.

The pocket is constructed on both sides of the garmentfront and tacked in a few places to the canvas for additionalsupport. The inside pouch is made of a special cottonfabric known as Silesia.

The roll line of the lapel is given shape by stitching a cottontape along the inside edge of the roll line. The entire frontand bottom of the jacket is taped in a similar manner toprovide a crisp look after the facing is attached.

It is also essential when constructing a garment to ensure that all thecomponents in the construction, including the trimmings, are covered by thecare label. This includes the thread used, buttons, trims, the internalcomponents and the external cloth used.

Thread tension is also important to ensure the final garment seams do notpucker – because all textiles ‘relax’ to some extent during the drycleaning andwashing process and therefore if the seam stitch tension is too high, the threadrelaxation shrinkage will often cause the garment to pucker.



7. How might the internal components of a suit jacket be fixed in place?

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8. How might the internal components cause a problem in drycleaning? What couldbe the cause of this?

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9. Why is thread tension important in drycleaning and pressing?

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4. FOREIGN BODIES AND LOST PROPERTY

Part of the sorting and classification responsibilities will involve individually checkingeach garment for extraneous objects that may cause damage to the garment, othergarments in the same machine load or the machinery itself.

Matches and cigarette lighters are an obvious source of a potential fire – but smalleritems like pins (both straight and safety pins) can cause serious damage by pullingand snagging other items in the load.

Pens are especially problematic as the solvent often partially dissolves the ink andthen spreads it over the rest of the machine load causing ink-splashes and ink-blobsscattered at random over everything else in the machine.

Particular care should be taken when checking the pockets because sharp objects cancause painful injuries which can lead to infections.

Always ‘pat – don’t poke’ when handling a garment. Often just patting-down thegarment will quickly reveal a hard lump - which is normally a sure sign that somethinghas been left in a pocket.Once you have identified that something has been left behind – try to look inside thepocket first to identify just what it is that has been left there before attempting toremove it. For example, a carelessly discarded hypodermic syringe can cause a greatdeal of discomfort as well as leading to a potential infection if it stabs you.If you spot it at the counter, ask the owner to remove it.

4.1. You may find personal belongings in the pockets of garments, badges onlapels, fancy buttons or buckles which will need to be removed before the itemis cleaned. These items should be labelled and stored safely for return to thecustomer.

4.2. Some items may arrive at the sorting workstation with noindication of ownership. You should make some attemptto find out where they came from by asking colleaguesand/or your supervisor. If you cannot establishownership of an item or bundle it should be marked andprocessed as normal, with a no-name ticket made outdetailing the items involved, the date and time receivedand any information that might help match it with an enquirylater on, e.g. if it came in from a driver’s route – which driver or route or if itcame from an Agent or other receiving shop – which shop?

10. What system is in place to deal with lost property found in your workplace?

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5. GARMENT MARKING AND IDENTIFICATION

5.1. Because a whole range of garments from different owners are going to becleaned together in the drycleaning machine and then go on through thevarious processes and procedures, it is essential that all items are clearlyidentified with a unique coding or label so that all of the items can be returned tothe correct owners.

5.2. The marking label or tag must be one that is not affected by the variousprocesses that the items are going to be subjected to as well as being strongenough to remain in place during each of the processes so that it can be easilyread and checked by the despatch department or when handing the items backto the owner.

5.3. It is also vital, whatever system is used to mark the items, that it does not causeany damage to the item or affect the appearance of the item after cleaning andfinishing. For example, to place the marking or identification label on the outsideof the cuff on a jacket sleeve will mean that the sleeve cannot be pressedcorrectly and the indentation of the label will be on the sleeve.

5.4. Similarly, wherever the label or marking is going to be placed – it must be put inthe same place on all similar items so that the despatch staff know where tolook for it each time. For example, on a jacket the label could be alwaysattached to the hanging loop in the neck or on the jacket lining at the right-handinside pocket.

Imagine the confusion if the labels were each placed in a different location onevery jacket!!

5.5. Identification tickets or tagsTickets can be as simple as a raffle-ticket orthe slip attached to the bag of a ‘servicewash’ or as hi-tech as a ticket produced byan EPOS system. A commonly usedduplicate ticket book system that is safe bothin laundry and drycleaning is the Bradshaw

Brodie type aspictured to the right

Other types of tickets can identify an item that isdamaged and requires repair, requires a special finishsuch as shower proofing or indicating that an expressservice is required.

5.6. Tagger guns and safety pinsOnce a label has been produced it is important to attach the label securely tothe item.



Two methods are in general use for this. The most common is the humblesafety pin.

Increasingly, thespecial ‘Tagger guns’that pierce the itemand secure the labelwith a plastic tag arebeing used, as theyare easier andquicker than thesafety pin and far

less likely to come undone during the cleaning cycle. The ‘Tagger gun’(illustrated above right) is how price tags are often attached to many newgarments in the High Street shop. However, to ensure the label does not comeoff during the cleaning process, the pin or tag should be fed through the labeltwice.



6. CLASSIFICATION

6.1. Life would be so easy if there was only one classification that needed cleaningwith the same type of soiling and fabric and it could be all cleaned together in acleaning machine, with the same chemicals, drying temperature, mechanicalaction, process time, process formulation, extraction, drying time and finishingprocess.

Unfortunately there are quite a few reasons why the different types of soiledfabric sent for drycleaning have to be classified, and then each classificationcleaned, dried and finished differently.

For productivity and solvent emissions directive (SED) reasons, most cleanerstry to keep the number of classifications to a minimum.

The following is a brief list (with explanation) of some of the more commontypes of classification used. The number of classifications will vary somewhataccording to the range of articles received in your drycleaning facility.

6.2. Type of fibre used to make the item:

The first variable is the type of fibre the article(s) are made from.There are 4 basic fibre groups and each of them has different properties andbehaviour during the washing, drycleaning and finishing processes.The basic groups are:-

Animal VegetableMan-Made/Synthetic

Regenerated

Wool,Silk,Angora

Cotton,Linen,Ramie,Hemp

NylonPolyester

Acrilan,Rayon,Acetate(Tricel andDicel)

6.2.1. Animal fibres behave like your own hair. They are readily damaged bystrong alkalis and too much friction – and many, like wool, swell by morethan 30% when wet. As a ‘rule of thumb guide’ – if what you are doingwould hurt you and your skin – then there’s a good possibility that it willalso hurt or damage animal fibres.

6.2.2. Vegetable fibres are strong and unaffected by alkali but damaged byacids as well as being resistant to high temperatures. They creasereadily – but these creases can be easily removed during pressing andare not permanent.

6.2.3. Man-Made fibres are ‘thermoplastic’ which means they readily soften atmoderately low temperatures and melt at higher temperatures. If they aresuddenly cooled, say, when changing from hot to cold, they will ‘freeze’in the shape they were in cooled water (called ‘Thermal shock) causingpermanent creasing that cannot be completely removed. These fibres



also love oil (oleophilic) and need special types of chemicals to helpremove it from them. They also generate static electricity and will attractlint and fluff from other items in the load, e.g. cleaning fluffy items with apolyester suit will cause lint over the whole suit.This property of thermal shock can work to our advantage, for examplewhen the drycleaning presser sets permanent creases into, say, the frontof a pair of trousers.

6.2.4. Regenerated fibres: are made from many waste materials such as paper,wood pulp and discarded cotton and woollen items – so these types ofmaterials are readily affected by both temperature during the cleaningprocess and any strong chemicals. They are very easily distorted andstretched by higher temperatures so extra care must be taken duringfinishing.

This means we must carefully separate out items made from the differenttypes of fibres if we are to prevent any damage to them, particularly in the

drying phase.

But special care should be taken to check the garment ‘Fibre content’ labelbecause many modern garments will have several different types of fibre

used on their construction.

This means that each garment should be classified and processed based onthe most delicate or sensitive fibre used in the garment construction.

11. What are the 4 types of fibres?

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12. Which fibres can be affected by temperature?

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6.3. The colour of the item:Not all dyes used on textiles are ‘colour-safe’ – meaningthat the dye will run or bleed when immersed in solventand/or water –and will sometimes transfer that colouronto other items in the load.There are some types of dye that are permanent and willnot be affected by heat or the detergent used and can bequite safely cleaned with other coloured items – butwithout many years of experience it is not alwayspossible to tell which these are and it is therefore always



best to be ‘safe rather than sorry’ and classify these items separately.It is also advisable to test items that you think may lose colour as describedbelow.

6.3.1. Find an unobtrusive part of the garment, i.e. the reverse side of a seam. Apply sparingly some of the solvent or spotting chemicals to be

used to a small area. Leave time to react. Gently rub the area with a clean piece of white cotton cloth and see

if colour is transferred. Flush off and dry. Check for colour change.

13. Which part of a garment is tested for colour fastness?

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6.4. The type and degree of soiling on the fabric:There are 4 basic soiling groups, or types, of soiling – with some examplesunder each heading:-

Watersoluble

Protein OilyInsoluble orparticulate

sugarsalt

blood,albumen

car grease,skin preparations,cooking oils/fats

sand,carbon,soot

6.4.1. Each of these types of soiling reacts or behaves differently during thecleaning process. For example, sugar and salt will not dissolve in solventand so present a real problem. Protein soiling will set at temperaturesabove 39ºC – this type of soiling is effectively ‘cooked’ onto the fabric ifcleaned or dried too hot.On the other hand, oily and greasy soiling may be completely dissolvedby the solvent if it is powerful enough. Solvency power is measured onthe Kauri Butanol (KB) scale, the higher the value, the stronger thesolvent.

6.4.2. It is very seldom that these types of soiling will be found alone – they aremore often than not mixed together.For example, a cup of tea contains Sugar (water soluble) and Tannin(Protein) and Milk (which is a mixture of protein and fats).

So it is essential that the different types of soiling should beseparated out as different types of cleaning or stain removal

process will be required.

The amount of soiling present will also play an important role. Forexample, lightly soiled items may only need a single bath process



whereas dirtier items like greasy engineers overalls may need multiplebaths.

So very heavily soiled items should be separated out for ‘special’processing.

6.5. Delicate and Sensitive items:6.5.1. Delicate and sensitive items need to be processed separately or given a

additional protection during the drycleaning process. This may includeplacing the item in a net bag or pillow case and/or protecting delicatetrimmings or buttons perhaps with aluminium foil or similar.

6.5.2. Some examples of delicate items you may be asked to process are:-- Silk items- Viscose items- Crepe- Synthetic velvet- Loosely knitted items- Wedding dresses- Ball gowns- Antique lace

14. Can you name any other items that fall in this category?

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6.5.3. When processing these items attention must be directed to the carelabel. In many cases the care label will dictate that a gentle cycle ischosen. Perhaps utilising reduced drying temperature, reduced solventtemperature, shorter drying times, shorter process times, reducedmechanical action.

15. What are the 4 types of soiling?

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16. Can you draw the care label symbol indicating that a gentle or delicate cycle isrequired?



17. List the classifications you use on a daily basis and explain which importantfactors identify them as a separate classification.

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7. CARE LABELS

There are British standard wash after-care symbols that are found on the care labelsattached to most modern fabric items. These recommendations are given by themanufacturer of the garment or article to assist the purchaser in cleaning it withoutcausing any unwanted change to its appearance, shape, colour or handle.

You should use these labels to assist you to decide the most suitable classification,but if you are unsure about your selection always confirm your choice by discussing itwith your supervisor or manager.

7.1. A fabric item that is permanently damaged by cleaning with the wrongclassification will result in a customer complaint and a possible compensationclaim. The drycleaner will have to clean a lot of items to make up the cost thathas gone to pay out compensation for one damaged fancy blouse or for a suitregarded as a family heirloom.

You should be able to understand and read the symbols.

The following pages detail these symbols and their meanings.

7.2. The recommendation on the care label for processing fabrics that need to beclassified as delicate will usually include a bar beneath the symbol.

This bar is very important because in drycleaning it means reduced mechanicalaction, reduced temperature of the solvent and in drying and reduced spin.

7.3. The only chemical indication given on the care labels is for bleach or for drycleaning solvent.

7.4. Some items may be dry-cleanable but if you have a washing machine this mayoffer a better option of cleaning a garment or article successfully withoutcausing damage. Always consult your supervisor or get permission from thecustomer before redirecting an item to the washing machine. Remember thatdrycleaning is not very good at removing water soluble soiling and most of thearticles received in your workplace will be stained or soiled with food, drink,blood and other body fluids which are primarily water soluble.

7.5. Many stains or heavily soiled areas on garments will benefit from spotting orspecial treatment before they are washed. These treatments should be followedimmediately by a suitable clean to prevent possible chemical damage from thetreatment chemicals. Badly soiled collars, rust, protein, water-based stains,sugars and ink stains are typical marks that benefit from pre-treatment.



The following basic guidelines symbols apply

Washing Bleaching Ironing Drying Drycleaning

A cross through the any symbol means‘DO NOT’

A bar (single/double or broken) under anysymbol means

‘MILD or VERY MILD’

Wash Tub symbol

- The maximum wash temperature, in degrees centigrade, will be indicatedby a number or series of dots inside of the wash tub symbol.

- Hand-washing only is denoted by a hand in the wash tub.- A single bar under the wash tub indicates reduced mechanical action,

gradually reduced temperature (cool down) and reduced spin.- A double or broken bar denotes a very mild process (e.g. for washable wool

garments)

Bleach (triangle) symbol- A plain triangle indicates any oxidising bleach may be used – but follow the

supplier’s temperature guidelines.- Hatched lines in the triangle mean only oxygen (non-chlorine) bleach- A cross through the triangle and the triangle is filled-in – DO NOT bleach

using any bleach

Hand Iron symbol- The heat setting (temperature) that the textile can be finished at is indicated

by a dot on the iron and refers to the sole plate temperature – in degreescentigrade.

- A single dot (●) means maximum sole plate temperature of 110ºC andsteam finishing may cause irreversible damage.

- Two dots (● ●) means a maximum sole plate temperature of 150ºC; and- Three dots (● ● ●) means a maximum sole plate temperature of 200ºC.- The iron symbol with a cross through it means do not iron and do not use

steam.



Drying (square box) symbol- The square box with a circle inside represents a tumble drier. If there is no

dot inside the circle, this means ‘any heat setting’- A single dot (●) means low heat setting and- Two dots (● ●) means normal heat setting;- A single straight horizontal line means dry flat- Vertical lines in the rectangle indicate ‘drip dry’- Any diagonal lines means out of direct sunlight

Drycleaning symbol- The drycleaning symbol will have a single letter inside the circle and it

might have a single underscore (bar) beneath it.- The letter ‘P’ means dryclean on a normal cycle using perchloroethylene or

hydrocarbon solvent.- The letter ‘F’ means use only hydrocarbon solvent – do not dryclean using

perchloroethylene.- The letter ‘W’ means the article may be ‘professionally wet-cleaned’ and

could have no underscore, a single or a double underscore line beneath it.- The single (for drycleaning and wetcleaning) and double (just for

wetcleaning) under-score lines mean mild process and very mild processrespectively.

IRONING DRYINGSymbol Brief meaning Symbol Brief meaning

Iron with a cool iron – soleplate temperature not

exceeding 110ºC. Steamfinishing may causeirreversible damage.

Tumble dry on lowertemperature setting

Iron with a medium iron – soleplate temperature not

exceeding 150ºC

Tumble dry on normaltemperature setting

Iron with a hot iron – soleplate temperature not

exceeding 200ºCDo not tumble dry

Do not iron. Steaming andsteam treatments not allowed

Line dry

Flat dry

Drip dry



7.6. Washing symbols

Although, whilst working in the drycleaning department, the drycleaningsymbols are the most relevant – it is also important for you to know andunderstand the meaning and interpretation of the washing symbols as you mayreceive items with these and you must know how they are to be handled andwhat can be done with them.The wash tub symbolizes the domestic washing treatment (by hand or machine)(See Figure 1). It is used to convey information regarding the maximumwashing temperature and the maximum washing process severity, as shown intable 1.

Symbol Washing process Symbol Washing process

- maximum temperature 95ºC- maximum temperature 40ºC- normal process

- maximum temperature 95ºC- mild process


- maximum temperature 70ºC- normal process

- maximum temperature 40ºC- very mild process

- maximum temperature 60ºC- normal process



- Hand-wash only- Do not machine wash- Maximum temperature 40ºC- Handle with care


- Do not wash- Be cautious when treating in wet

stages

Chlorine-based bleachingSymbol Process Symbol Process Symbol Process

- only oxidisingbleach allowed

- only oxygennon chlorinebleach allowed

- do not use anybleach

60

60

95 40

30

50

40

95

70



7.7. Drycleaning symbols

Symbol Cleaning process Symbol Cleaning process

- professional drycleaning intetrachloroethene and allsolvents listed for the symbolF

- normal process

- professional drycleaning intetrachloroethene and all solventslisted for the symbol F

- mild process

- professional drycleaning inhydrocarbons (distillationtemperature between 150ºCand 210ºC flash pointbetween 38ºC and 70ºC)

- normal process

- professional drycleaning inhydrocarbons (distillationtemperature between 150ºC and210ºC flash point between 38ºCand 70ºC)

- mild process

- do not dryclean- professional wet cleaning

- normal process

- professional wet cleaning

- mild process

- professional wet cleaning

- very mild processW

W

F

W

PP

F



7.8. The following table summarises the factors influencing classification:

Influence ReasonFibre type

Colour

Soiling level

Special fabric finishes

Construction

Care Label

Animal (wool), vegetable (cotton) or man-made (polyester)

Loose dyes (dye transfer or bleeding)

Heavy, medium or light

fire retardant, water proof or resistant

Delicate items, heavily beaded items, padded items etc.

The label gives information as to which process and solventto be used.

18. Are there any other factors you can think of that are not listed?

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19. Imagine that you are holding a soiled ladies suit jacket with sequin trimming. Whatwould you have to consider before classification?

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20. Give two reasons why a red silk dressed and a white linen jacket should not becleaned together.

(a) ..........................................................................................................................................

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(b) ..........................................................................................................................................

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21. What checks should be made on the trolleys and baskets used for classification inthe drycleaners?

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22. What are the factors which good sorting takes into account when assemblingcleaning loads?

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23. Give two examples of types of stains that will not come out in the drycleaningprocess.

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24. How would you document any damaged item at classification?

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25. What could happen if you fail to remove extraneous objects?

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26. Why is it important to identify existing damage to garments in sorting?

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27. What do the following care labels mean?

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P



8. WEIGHING SCALES

Weighing scales are an important piece of equipment that enables the sorter toaccurately measure the weight of each load. They provide essential managementinformation.

8.1. Accuracy is important if optimum production and solvent efficiency is to bemaintained through the cleaning machine. Production control and SolventEmissions Directive (SED) figures for the drycleaner are based on the weight ofwork processed.

Recording production throughput accurately, provides management withstatistical information on which they can base their service plans, developmentprogrammes and solvent consumption calculation as well as working out justhow much it is costing to process the work through the machine.

It is therefore absolutely essential that ALL LOADS of work are accuratelyweighed and these weights recorded – as required by the SED.

8.2. The sorter must also know the machine capacity weight for each machine inorder to ensure machines are not ‘over-’ or ‘under-loaded’.

8.2.1. If cleaning machines are ‘under-loaded’ this will result in:-Lost production: If, for example, a cleaning machine has a ratedcapacity of 30kg – but it is loaded with 20kgs, then after an 8hr shift, ifthe machine takes a load every 60 minutes, 60kgs of production fromthat machine will be lost – equivalent to more than two full machineloads.

Increased costs: Most modern drycleaning machines use anautomatically controlled cleaning process. All of the cleaningparameters such as solvent dip levels, mechanical action, dryingtemperature and detergent additions will be programmed into thecleaning machine and will be based on a full load of work. Virtually thesame amount of solvent and energy will be used almost irrespective ofthe weight of work loaded into the cleaning machine – and thechemicals additions made will be exactly the same on each occasion.This means that if the machine is under loaded, it will cost virtually thesame to clean a 20kg load as it will for a full 30kg load – which willincrease costs by 33% or more, depending upon by just how much themachine is under-loaded.

Increased fabric damage: The fabric damage is caused by themechanical action (rubbing) of the textiles when inside the cleaningmachine whilst it is rotating. Therefore, the fewer items put into thecleaning machine the greater the physical damage that will occur. Thismeans that the items will not last as long as they should and will needto be replaced prematurely – leading to customer complaints.

Increased solvent consumption: There will be an increase in solventconsumption per kilo of work cleaned if the machine is not fully loaded.



8.2.2. If the drycleaning machine is over-loaded this will result in:-Poor cleaning quality: There will be insufficient room inside of thecleaning machine for the textiles to move and so mechanical action willbe reduced, the solvent will not penetrate correctly into the centre of theload and the textiles will not come clean correctly.

Increased re-cleans: With the poor cleaning quality, higher levels of re-cleans will occur. Re-cleans not only effectively double the cost ofcleaning the item but will also prevent other work from being cleaned.

The load will not dry efficiently: in fact the load may not be fully dry atthe end of the process. The greater the over-load the greater the riskthat the hot air during the drying process cannot not pass through thetextiles to evaporate the solvent. In a modern machine this will simplyresult in extended drying time, increased costs and lost production. Inan old machine this could result in increased solvent use and theworkplace being exposed to increased levels of solvent vapour.

Extended finishing times: Over-loading of the drycleaning machinewill often result in excessive creasing of the drycleaned textiles. This, inturn means additional attention to pressing methods and extra time willbe needed.

Machine damage: All drycleaning machines are designed to accept acertain weight of work to process. If the load is now greater than themachine design weight capability, this means that bearings and driveshaft and drive belts may be damaged so the machine will need to betaken out of service until the engineering department can replace thedamaged or broken parts.

It is therefore essential for production, quality and costs controlthat all loads of work are accurately weighed and ONLY the rated

load for each machine is used.

28. What are the advantages of using weighing scales?

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29. How might you accidentally increase fabric damage?

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9. IDENTIFICATION OF WORK SEQUENCE

Information will come to the sorter from other departments about which classificationor customers’` work is required and you must respond positively as a member of theproduction team.

With the time delay between sorting and packing, requests between departmentscould overlap shift patterns. It is therefore important that messages are left if personnelcarrying out the work are about to change and equally important that the new shiftsorter looks for and reacts to any information or messages left.

It is essential that prior to sorting and classification that items are clearly marked andlabelled for the following reasons;

To identify the customer To identify the service level and if additional finishes/services are required To help with work sequencing



10. HEALTH AND SAFETY

Drycleaning is not a recognised method of disinfection.

Therefore if a potentially infected item is presented for cleaning the following washingguidance must be followed.

To protect yourself from the potential risks by the handling of soiled andcontaminated fabrics you should make full use of all the protective equipment

supplied to you.

The health and safety risks associated with sorting the soiled articles that youprocess should have been assessed and procedures developed to minimize

these risks.

By following basic hygiene and safety policies within your sorting area you should beable to carry out all the required activities safely and efficiently

10.1. An overall and gloves should be seen as essential items. The level of bodycoverage required will depend on the contamination levels of the soiled itemshandled or special requirements given to you by the customer.

10.2. Your work will involve checking pockets on all types of garment. Theincreasing use of drugs in today’s society and the risk of infection from needleinjuries (needle-stick) should provide the incentive for you to take everypossible precaution when carrying out this task.

10.3. Any cut, abrasion or prick injury (needle-stick) you receive while working withsoiled items should be reported to your supervisor or first-aider or medicalpractitioner immediately so that appropriate actions can be taken.

10.4. Handling foul and potentially infected items should be carried out with care tolimit the risks. Do not handle these items unless you are wearing an overall andgloves.

Ideally, when handling ‘foul’ items that may also be wet – an impervious plastic(or similar) apron should be worn and disposed of in a suitable container at theend of each shift or when leaving the work station for any reason, for example,meal breaks, natural breaks etc. On your return to the work station a new freshapron should be used.

10.5. Barrier creams may be available for your use. They are not as effective againstbacteria as gloves and provide no protection against sharps. Barrier creamsshould only be used as an additional protective layer when handling foul andinfected items.

10.6. The following table gives you some indication of the level of protection you mayneed:



Personal Protective Equipment

Type ofSoiling/

CustomerCoat/

Overall

BoilersuitJacket/

Trousers

FaceMask

RespiratorSpecial

FootwearHat

HoodGloves

Bloodfrom aroadaccident

Yes Possible Poss Unlikely Possible No Yes

10.7. Some types of soiled linen are subject to special regulations from governmentdepartments to ensure that staff are not put at risk.

10.8. Any facility processing soiled linen or garments from hospitals has to follow therecommendations in a document called ‘Hospital Laundry Arrangements forUsed and Infected Linen – HSG (95) 18.

10.9. This document states that due to the potential risk of infection of sorting stafffrom blood, bacteria, viruses etc on soiled textiles, workwear must be worn. Allcuts and exposed lesions on the skin must be covered by a waterproof dressingand gloves must be worn.

Workwear should be changed at the end of every shift.

Taking workwear worn in the sorting department home for washing is tobe discouraged because of the risk of spreading bacteria, viruses and

infections.

Heavy duty rubber gloves are a good barrier for protection against sharp objectsoften found in soiled garment pockets. These objects coming from hospitals andtheir medical staff can range from syringes and scalpels to wide variety ofspecial instruments.

Any sharp object found whilst sorting garments should be reported to yoursupervisor or the originator, who should assess the risk and if the source can beidentified, inform them of the possible consequences of their carelessness. Ifan injury is caused by a ‘sharp’ in soiled articles, it should be treated as apotential infection and medical advice should be sought.

10.10. Personal hygiene is very important if you have been handling soiled items.Even if you have been wearing gloves you must ensure that you wash yourhands before carrying out any other activities. Handling and eating food withoutwashing your hands could lead to infection and serious illness.

10.11. Working in the sorting department often involves lifting and moving quite heavyobjects. You should be aware of the risks to your back and try to follow therecommendations given in the health and safety unit of this course.



11. FOUL AND INFECTED LINEN

If items arrive at your sorting area labelled as foul or infected they should be washedas quickly as possible. If the items have no identification marks they should be washedon their own (ensuring that they are disinfected), dried and then marked in the usualway (or processed as an individually labelled load through to dispatch).

Infected linen should be delivered to you sealed in a red water soluble bag or in a bagwith water soluble stitching that can be placed straight into a washing machine thusavoiding any direct contact with laundry staff.

Disinfection of infected linen in the wash process should follow the NHS Executiverecommendations of either thermal disinfection or chemical disinfection.

Thermal disinfection is achieved by washing at a set temperature for a given period oftime. The recommendations are:-

FABRIC TEMP WASH TIME MIXING TIME TOTAL TIMEPolyester cotton 65°C 10 minutes 4 minutes 14 minutes

Cotton 71°C 3 minutes 4 minutes 7 minutes

Chemical disinfection can be used on fabrics that will be damaged by washing at65°C. To achieve chemical disinfection, sodium hypochlorite should be added to thefirst rinse of the wash process. This rinse should have a medium dip, be of at leastfive minutes duration and the sodium hypochlorite addition should be enough to give150 parts per million in the rinse liquor.

This process (or alternatives using accredited detergent/disinfectant) should be set upby a chemical technician from your detergent supplier to ensure that they achieve allthe correct parameters for chemical disinfection.

30. Give an example of why soiling is hazardous to health?

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12. UNSUITABLE ITEMS

If for any reason a garment is found to be unsuitable for cleaning it must not beprocessed. The customer should be contacted and the specific issues with thegarment raised with them.

If the customer provides written consent you may decide to process the garment.

Reasons why you may decide to not accept a garment even if the customer giveswritten consent include:-

The item is infectious The item may damage the machine The item may break down and deposit lint, feathers, rubber, or other

material in the machine which may be difficult to remove. The item may discolour the solvent and filters

31. Give examples for the reasons seen above why you may decide to refuse to cleanan item?

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Appendix 1LDC3 Classify items and make up loads for cleaning

At level 2, this unit is for those who prepare items and make up loads for cleaning.

The job role will involve1. Handling items with care and removing those which are unsuitable for the cleaning process;2. Checking for foreign objects and dealing with them according to correct procedures;3. Sorting items according to the appropriate classifications;4. Making up loads of the correct weight;5. Labeling them clearly;6. Prioritizing loads and storing them carefully.

The competent person must: The key areas of knowledge and understanding1. Prepare items for classification2. Prioritise work3. Classify items and make up loads

1. How to identify and handle items2. The importance of removing items unsuitable for cleaning3. Classification of loads4. Weight capacity of machines5. Why different types of items need different weight loads6. Care labels7. Understanding fibres and fabrics8. Constructions of items9. Importance of identifying delicate/sensitive items

The skills and techniques1. Handling items carefully2. Redirecting items unsuitable for the cleaning process3. Deal with foreign object4. Make up, label and store loads5. Deal with foul and infected items6. Identify items requiring stain removalRegulations, rules and guidelines1. The organisation’s rules, codes, guidelines and standards2. Equipment operating procedures3. Relevant responsibilities under the Health & Safety at Work Act and COSSH (Control of Substances

Hazardous to Health)4. Manufacturers instructionsWorkplace skills1. Communicate effectively with colleagues and customers2. Comply with written instructions3. Complete forms, reports and other documentation4. Keep accurate records



Index of key words used in this training module.

“

“owner’s risk” 4“owners risk” 5

A

Accessories 3, 4Acetate 17acids 18Acrilan 17age 4alkali 18alkalis 18Angora 17Animal 17, 18, 31apron 38

B

bacteria 38, 40badges 13bar 23, 25, 27Barrier creams 38beads 4, 5, 7, 8belt buckles 5bleach 23, 25, 29Bleach (triangle) symbol 25Bleaching 25blood See Soiling groupsblood stained 5blouses 9body fluids 5, 23Bradshaw Brodie 15British standard 23buckles 5, 13buttons 5, 10, 13, 21

C

canvas 9, 10car grease See Soiling groupscarbon See Soiling groupscare instructions See Care Labelcare label 4, 7, 9, 10, 21, 23chemical damage 23chemicals 9, 17, 18, 19, 24, 34Chlorine-based bleaching 29chrome-tanning 6claim 4, 23classification 13, 17, 21, 23, 31, 32, 37, 44classified 17, 18, 23classify 19CLASSIFY ITEMS 4coats 9colour 5, 6, 7, 8, 19, 23compensation 23cooking oils/fats See Soiling groupsCotton 17, 42creases 18

Crepe 21cuff 15customer 4, 13, 23, 35, 37, 38, 43

D

damage 5, 13, 15, 18, 23, 25, 27, 32, 34, 35, 36, 43damaged 4, 7, 8, 15, 18, 23, 32, 35, 42Delicate 21, 31Dicel 17dispute 4dresses 9, 21dry cleaning 7, 23drycleaning4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 11, 12, 15, 17, 18, 21, 23, 27, 29,

30, 32, 34, 35Drycleaning 3, 25, 27, 30, 38Drycleaning symbol 27Drying 25, 27DRYING 27Drying (square box) symbol 27drying temperature 17, 21, 34drying time 17, 35duplicate ticket book 15dye loss 5dyes 19, 31

E

EPOS system 15Extended finishing times 35extraction 17

F

fabric 4, 7, 8, 9, 10, 17, 19, 20, 23, 31, 34, 36fibres 4, 10, 18, 19, 44finishing process 17fire 13, 31fluff 18foam 9foul 38, 42, 44FOUL 42fragile 4friction 18Fur 6Fur-trimmed 6fused 9, 10

G

garment 4, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 13, 18, 19, 23, 38, 40, 43GARMENT CONSTRUCTION 9glass 7glove 38gloves 38, 40, 41glued See Fused, See Fusedgreying 5



H

hair 5, 9, 10, 18hair canvas 9, 10hair cloth 10Hand Iron symbol 25Hand-wash only 29HEALTH AND SAFETY 38Hemp 17hospitals 40HSG(95)18 5hypodermic syringe 13

I

Increased costs 34Increased fabric damage 34Increased re-cleans 35Increased solvent consumption 35infected 5, 38, 42, 44infections 13, 40infectious 43injuries 13, 38ink-blobs 13ink-splashes 13Insoluble See Soiling groupsinterfacing 9Ironing 25IRONING 27

K

knitted 21

L

label 4, 7, 15, 16, 18, 21, 31, 44lace 21lapel 10laundering 4, 5Leather 5, 6Linen 3, 17, 40lining 9lint 18, 43Lost production 34

M

Man-Made 17, 18mechanical action 17, 21, 23, 25, 34, 35melting 7mildew 4moisture 5moths 4

N

needle-stick 38net bag 5Nylon 17

O

Oil See Soiling groupsoleophilic 18outer cloth 9overall 38over-loaded 35oxidation 4

P

padding 9, 10particulate See Soiling groupsPens 13perchloroethylene 7, 27personal belongings 13Personal hygiene 41Personal Protective Equipment 40pillowcase 5plastic 7, 16, 38pockets 13, 38, 40police investigation 5polyester 18, 31Polyester 17, 42Poor cleaning quality 35prick injury 38procedures 6, 15, 38, 44process formulation 17process time 17processes 6, 15, 17Protein See Soiling groupspucker 11pulling 13PVC 5

R

Ramie 17Rayon 17reduced spin 23, 25Regenerated 17, 18relaxation shrinkage 11repair service 4rubber 5, 40, 43

S

salt See Soiling groupssand See Soiling groupsscalpels 40seam 11, 19SED 17, 34sensitive 18, 21, 44sharp object 40sharp objects 13, 40shirts 9shower proofing 15shrinkage 5, 9, 11silk 4, 8, 31Silk 17, 21single dot 25skin preparations See Soiling groupsskirts 9sleeve 15snagging 13



soiling 4, 5, 17, 19, 20, 21, 23, 42soiling groups 20solvent 5, 7, 8, 13, 17, 19, 20, 21, 23, 27, 31, 34, 35, 43solvents 5, 30soot See Soiling groupsspecial regulations 40special treatment 23spotting 9, 19, 23spotting chemicals 19static electricity 18statistical information 34sugar See Soiling groupssunlight damage 4symbol 21, 23, 25, 27, 30Synthetic 17, 21syringes 40

T

tag 15, 16Tagger guns’ 16tanner’s oils 6temperatures 18, 20Thermal shock 18thermoplastic’ 18Thread tension 11Three dots 25Tricel 17trims 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10trousers 18Trousers 9, 40Two dots 25, 27

U

under-loaded’ 34Upholstery 7

V

Vegetable 17, 18vegetable tanning 6Viscose 21

W

Wash Tub symbol 25washing 4, 11, 17, 23, 25, 29, 38, 40, 41, 42Washing 25, 29Washing process 29washing symbols 29water 5, 18, 19, 20, 23, 24, 31, 42Water See Soiling groupswater soluble 23, 42Wedding 21wedding gown 7Weighing scales 34white and pastel 5Wool 17woolen 5WORK SEQUENCE 37workstation 13workwear 40

UNIT LDC 3 CLASSIFY ITEMS AND MAKE UP LOADS FOR … · Drycleaning Technology Centre Unit 10a Drill...

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