Unit 4Clothing/Project

Construction

Clothing Management

Tonja BoldingLakeside High School Revised 2010

Unit 4 terms1. backstitching—stitching forward then using the

reverse to stitch backwards over the same stitches to secure the beginning or end of a seam

2. bias—grain that runs diagonally and allows the greatest amount of stretch in a woven fabric

3. casing—a closed tunnel of fabric that holds a piece of elastic or a drawstring inside

4. crosswise grain —grain that runs across the fabric from one selvage to the other

5. dart— a triangular fold of fabric stitched to a point to control fullness and shape in a garment

6. directional stitching —stitching with, or in the same direction, as the fabric grain

7. easing—joining two edges of fabric together when one edge is slightly larger than the other

8. facing—used to finish a raw edge, such as an armhole or neckline

9. gathering—soft folds of fabric formed by pulling up basting stitches

10. grade—to trim each layer of fabric to a different width to reduce bulk

11. grain line- grain of fabric; the direction in which the thread runs in a fabric

12. guide sheet —step-by-step information for cutting, marking, and sewing a pattern

13. interfacing—a piece of fabric placed between the outer fabric and facing to prevent stretching and add shape

14. layout—a diagram included in sewing instructions that shows how to place the pattern pieces on fabric

15. lengthwise grain —grain that runs the same direction as the selvage

16. machine basting-using the longest stitch possible on the machine for easy removal

17. notions —small items that become a permanent part of the garment

18. pattern—all the instructions needed to construct a project

19. pattern symbols —lines and symbols marked on the pattern and transferred to the fabric to help guide construction

20. seam—line of stitching that holds layers of fabric together

21. seam allowance —width between the fabric edge and seam line

22. seam finish —treatment of seam edges to prevent raveling

23. stay stitching—a row of machine stitches through one layer of fabric to prevent stretching

24. top stitching—a row of stitching done on the outside of a garment

25. under stitching—a row of stitching used to keep the facing or bottom layer of fabric rolled out of sight

4.1 Name guidelines for pattern (all the instructions needed to construct a project)

selection

Consider your sewing skill level

Pattern usePersonal tasteDetermine your size

Take bust or chest, waist and hip or seat measurements.

Pattern sizes may or may not correspond to ready-to-wear sizes.

4.2 Explain information found on a pattern envelope

notions (small items that become a permanent part of the garment)

back and front views body measurements finished garment measurementnumber of pattern pieces sizesuggested fabrics yardage chart

4.3 Explain information found on a pattern guide sheet (step-by-step information for cutting, marking, and sewing a pattern)

cutting layout (a diagram included in sewing instructions that shows how to place the pattern pieces on fabric)

by fabric widthby pattern sizeby view

explanation of markingsstep by step instructions

4.4 Name pattern symbols (lines and symbols marked on the pattern and transferred to the fabric to help guide construction)adjustment linesbuttonhole placementcutting linedart (a triangular fold of fabric stitched to a point to control fullness

and shape in garment) dot, squares and trianglesgrain lines (grain of fabric; the direction in which threads run in

fabric)crosswise grain (grain that runs across the fabric from one selvage to

the other)lengthwise grain (grain that runs the same direction as the selvage)

hem linesnotchesplace on fold lineplacement linesstitching line

seam (line of stitching that holds layers of fabric together)

seam allowance (width between the fabric edge and seam line)

4.5 Name basic sewing tools and use of each

Sewing Tools

Tape measure

6” seam gauge

tracing wheelfabric pen

tailor's chalkseam ripperthimble

needlepins pincushion

with emery pack

rotary cutter

scissors shears

Sewing Tools

4.6 Name basic parts of the sewing machine and functions of each

bobbin case- holds the bobbin in the machine and regulates the tension of the bobbin thread

feed dog- teeth that move the fabric under the presser foot hand wheel- controls the movement of the take-up lever; may be turned

by hand to raise or lower needle needle clamp- holds the needle firmly in the machine; loosened and

tightened by a screw presser foot- holds the fabric against the feed as you stitch presser foot lifter- used to raise and lower the presser foot reverse control- allows backward stitching spool pin- holds the spool of thread take-up lever- controls the flow of needle thread; should be at its highest

point before sewing to prevent the machine from unthreading itself tension control- regulates the tension placed on the needle thread by

tightening or loosening the tension discs that the upper thread passes through

thread guide- help guide upper thread from spool to needle without tangling

throat or needle plate- located directly under the needle and surrounds the food dog; usually has seam width guidelines to help keep stitching straight

4.7 Describe guidelines for operating a sewing machine

threading the machinewinding a bobbinplacing bobbin in bobbin caseraising the bobbin threadadjusting stitch length controladjusting stitch pattern controlreverse stitch/backstitching (stitching forward then using

the reverse to stitch backwards over the same stitches to secure the beginning or end of a seam)

stitch a 5/8 seam allowance (width between the fabric edge and seam line)

machine basting (using the longest stitch possible on the machine for easy removal)

4.8 Describe guidelines and safety procedures for operating a serger

I will demonstrate the procedure

Sergers provide a professional seam finish (treatment of seam edges to prevent raveling)

• Use a slow speed when learning how to use the machine.• Keep your fingers away form the needle.• Do not lean your face too close when stitching in case the

needle breaks.• Do not stitch over pins. Carefully remove them as you sew.• Keep pins in a pin cushion, never in your mouth or clothes.• Keep shears and scissors closed when not using them.• Pass shears and scissors handle first to another person.• Keep all tools in your sewing box when not in use.• Do not stretch the cord of the iron across traffic area.• Do not touch a hot iron except on the handle.• Keep your fingers and face away from the steam of an iron.• Do not overfill the iron or the water can boil out.• Always rest the iron on its heel, not flat down on the

soleplate.• Turn off and unplug the iron after each use.• Drain the water from the iron before storing.

4.9 Identify basic reasons for choosing woven and knitted fabric for a specific project

• medium weight, firmly woven are best for beginners

• small, all over print helps hide small sewing mistakes

• will not stretch unless on the bias (grain that runs diagonally and allows the greatest amount of stretch in a woven fabric)

• require techniques for a better fit– casing (a closed tunnel of fabric that holds a piece of elastic or a drawstring

inside ) at waistline– dart (a triangular fold of fabric stitched to a point to control fullness and shape

in a garment) at bust and/or waist line

• refer to pattern envelope for suggested fabrics for the chosen pattern

Woven Fabrics

Knit Fabricsmay stretch in one or both directionsharder to sew for beginnersideal for sportswearrefer to pattern envelope for suggested

fabrics for the chosen pattern

4.10 Explain steps involved when construction a sewing project

Getting Started:Read pattern guide sheetSelect correct pattern pieces needed for

viewsStraighten grain of fabriclayout pieces according to guide sheet

note markings for special placement such as bias (grain that runs diagonally and allows the greatest amount of stretch in a woven fabric)

check grain linecut patterns out correctly

4.10 Explain steps involved when construction a sewing project-continued-

Be familiar with terminology:directional stitching (stitching with, or in the same

direction, as the fabric grain)easing (joining two edges of fabric together when one

edge is slightly larger than the other)facing (used to finish a raw edge, such as an armhole or

neckline)gathering (soft folds of fabric formed by pulling up basting

stitches)grade (to trim each layer of fabric to a different width to reduce

bulk)interfacing (a piece of fabric placed between the outer fabric

and facing to prevent stretching and add shape)stay stitching (a row of machine stitches through one layer of

fabric to prevent stretching)top stitching (a row of stitching done on the outside of a

garment)under stitching (a row of stitching used to keep the facing or

bottom layer of fabric rolled out of sight)

4.11 Describe a computerized monogramming machine

plan placement of designselect correct hoop sizeselect type of stabilizerconsider type of fabricselect correct thread type

Janome 5000 embroidery machine

Clothsetter

embroidery hoop

stabilizer

embroiderythread

4.12 Identify correct procedures for specific hand sewing techniques

4.13 List factors to consider in evaluating a project according to basic construction techniques

Things that will be looked for in evaluating your project:

• back stitch at beginning and end• buttons, snaps, etc. properly sewn (if applicable)• even seam width• hem properly placed• no puckers, gathers or pleats in seamline• overall appearance• threads clipped