Tutorial Corset Com Cordonê

download Tutorial Corset Com Cordonê

If you can't read please download the document

  • date post

  • Category


  • view

  • download


Embed Size (px)

Transcript of Tutorial Corset Com Cordonê

Parte superior do formulrio

Parte inferior do formulrio About Contact Portfolios Commission Shop Tutorials Links Members BlogRegency Corset Final PhotosCorsets,Costuming,SewingNo Responses Jun012012

Tonight I processed and uploaded the remaining photos of the corded Regency corset, which is now with its owner. One of my friends was kind enough to model the corset, even if it was a little too small for her.This is a bespoke plus-sized corded regency corset, made with drill cover and coutil interlining, with padded shoulder straps, drawstring on the bust, a busk pocket, and fan lacing. The chemise is made from cotton muslin, with a drawstring at the neckline. The bodiced petticoat is also made from cotton muslin, and is open at the sides of the bodice, which are held closed with silk taffeta ribbon through hand-stitched eyelets. It also has cotton lace along the bottom edge.Core:One layer of corset coutilCover:Cotton drillEdging:Cotton taffeta ribbonCording:Poly twist cord inserted between the coutil and drillPiecing:three panels per side, two gores per bust, and two shoulder strapsBusk Pocket:2 wide, 13 long pocket, opening at the bottom, hand-sewn eyelets tied with silk taffeta ribbonBust Drawstring:Silk taffeta ribbon sewn into the top edging at the bustShoulder Straps:Sewn at back, tie in front, padded over the arc of the shoulder

Project:Regency CorsetPosted bySidney Eileenon June 1, 2012 at 9:29 pmTagged with:busk pocket,corded,corset,cotton,drill,fan lacing,gores,overbust,plus-sized,project Regency Corset,reenactment,Regency,shoulder straps,whiteRegency Corset FinishedCorsets,Costuming,Historical Inspirations,Sewing,Tutorials,Work in ProgressNo Responses May122012

The corded Regency corset is finished, including the fan lacing. The chemise is also finished, and the bodiced petticoat is very close to being finished. As soon as all the pieces are ready, Ill take some nice photos of everything. Then it will be packed and sent off to the customer.The fan lacing is based on two reference photos the customer sent me showing a period example of fan lacing. In the photo it appears that the lacing is sewn directly into the fabric used to pull the lacing tight. I opted to change this detail so the lacing could be adjusted or changed out if needed, without having to completely re-make the tie. I am including the photos here for educational purposes, so you fine folks can see exactly what Im talking about.

Each tie consists of two layers of cotton drill fabric, one short length of cotton taffeta ribbon, and one longer length of silk satin ribbon

The cotton ribbon is pinned into the wider end of the fabric, right sides together.

I used a 1/2 seam, and when I got to the narrow end, I sandwiched in the silk satin ribbon.

I left a large hole along one side of each tie so they could be turned. You may trim your fabric if desired. I did not trim.

The ribbons make it fairly easy to turn the ties. I then stitched the holes closed by hand using a hidden running stitch.

Click for Larger ViewThis is what the corset looks like laid out flat, after the lacing has all be put onto the corset.

Click for Larger ViewThe lacing ribbon has not been pre-shrunk for the washing machine, and I will want to adjust the lengths once I lace it on something and can see exactly where the ribbons are too long or too short. Thus, I left quite a bit of extra length when it tied off each section of ribbon, creating the extra muddle of loose ribbon on the left of the photo. Each ribbon length ties four grommets (two rows of grommet), except for the very bottom grommets, which are alone because I have an odd number of grommets on each side of the corset.The Other UndergarmentsI apologize for not taking detailed photos of the construction, but I am very short on time at the moment. Hopefully I will make another Regency set at a later date and be able to give all the details.

The chemise is finished. Its a fairly standard A-frame chemise typical of the Georgian period. Since the customer is busty, the front was cut wider than the back, so when the shoulders are matched up it gives the illusion of a trapezoidal shape to the front. The sleeves are wide enough to be comfortable for a more ample figure as well. The gussets are square. All internal seams are french seam construction. The neckline is very narrow, so I finished it by hand using a hidden running stitch on the inside. The drawstring is silk taffeta ribbon.

The bodiced petticoat is almost finished. The bodice is two layers of muslin, and will lace closed at the sides. I was able to findtext referenceto drop-front bodiced petticoat, and one example of adrop-front Regency dress, but I had no luck finding any photos of similar extant petticoats. So, I just made my best guess based on what I could find.The skirt of the petticoat is five panels with a slight flare to each. Two of the panels are in the front, creating less bulk and providing a slimming silhouette. Three panels are in the back, with the most gathering toward the center back. This will give more leg room and help to keep the gown worn over it from sinking into the small of the back.The two remaining details are eyelets on the sides of the bodice to lace through, and lace trim along the bottom hem.Project:Regency CorsetPosted bySidney Eileenon May 12, 2012 at 2:01 pmTagged with:bodiced petticoat,busk,chemise,commission,corded,cording,corset,costume,cotton,drill,fan lacing,gores,muslin,petticoat,project Regency Corset,reenactment,Regency,shoulder straps,tutorial,undergarments,whiteRegency Corset Assembly Day 8Corsets,Sewing,Work in ProgressNo Responses May072012

8 is in quotes because all told this is less than a days work, but it happened in very inefficient mini sewing sessions over the past couple weeks. There were several days when all intentions of sewing were thwarted.So, at this point the corset is technically finished. It is entirely sewn and grommeted. The only detail left is the period fan lacing, and then I will be making the chemise and bodiced petticoat to go with it.The top edge was trimmed and edged, as described inHow to Edge a Corsetand, because of the shoulder straps,How to Edge Around Tabs.The next step was to add the bust ribbon, a small silk taffeta ribbon along the front of the bust which can be tightened to cinch in the top of the bust slightly, or just tied into a nice little bow for decoration.I edged the entire top edge of the corset before adding the bust ribbon so the ribbon would not create friction and potentially fray the raw edge of the corset inside the edging. It also means the bust ribbon can be removed without causing any harm to the corset.

My edging ribbon is not quite wide enough to cover the existing edging, so I stitched to lengths of ribbon edge to edge.

Click for LargerI needed to leave a small hole at the center of the bust where the silk ribbon emerges, so, following the same procedure as for normal edging, I started just to the side of center and stitched until I was at the side seam. Roughly one inch of edging ribbon is left loose at the outer edge.

Click for LargerI then repeated the procedure on the other side, leaving a hole about 1/4 wide. Here, the two silk taffeta bust ribbons are threaded through the hole.

To secure the outer end of the bust ribbon, I stitched it to the loose end of the edging ribbon. I used a zig-zag stitch and went back and forth several times to make sure it will hold.

Click for LargerThis photo shows the silk bust ribbon stitched to the cotton edging ribbon.

Click for LargerThe new layer of edging ribbon is finished exactly the same as normal edging, but I had to be careful not to catch the silk bust ribbon in the stitching. The outer ends are folded under, but not stitched. That way if the bust ribbon needs to be replaced, new ribbon may be threaded in from the armpit area and secured by hand.

Click for LargerThis photo shows the bust ribbon pulled slightly, so there is some gathering along the top edge.After that, Igrommetedthe shoulder straps and the back edges. The shoulder straps are smaller grommets than the back edge.

Click for Larger - Outside View

Click for Larger - Lining ViewProject:Regency CorsetPosted bySidney Eileenon May 7, 2012 at 5:38 pmTagged with:back lacing,busk pocket,bust ribbon,corded,corset,cotton,drill,edging,gores,lining,overbust,plus-sized,project Regency Corset,Regency,shoulder straps,silk,twill,white,WIPRegency Corset Assembly Day 7Corsets,Sewing,Work in ProgressNo Responses Apr192012

These photos were taken a couple days ago. I finished the eyelets for the bottom of the busk pocket and attached the pocket.

For the bottom of the busk pocket I decided to make hand-worked eyelets using a looped buttonhole stitch. The first step is to define the eyelets. Then create a running stitch just outside the circumference of the hole size you want. The running stitch will help the eyelet hold its shape, and provide a guide while you create the buttonhole stitches.

Open the eyelet hole with an awl. Depending upon the material, you may need to slash the material inside the eyelet hole so that it will evenly fold back away from the hole. I had to do that for the busk pocket because the material was too thick to nicely open with just the tapered awl.

Each stitch starts from the back side of the eyelet, pulled through to the front. These stitches define the outer edge of the eyelet hole, so try to keep your stitches an even distance out from the circle of running stitches.

Next drop your needle down through the eyelet and have it emerge to the front next to the prior stitch, maintaining your distance from the circle of running stitches. Make sure the tail end of the previous stitch goes around the outside of the needle before d