TUSCANY’S October 2018 GGRRAAPPEEVVIINNEEContents Tuscany’s EG RAPEVIN Magazine October 2018 3...

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GRAPEVINEGRAPEVINETUSCANY’S

October 2018

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3Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine October 2018

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2018October

Cover:

Comics & Games (Lucca)

by Thomas S. England

Segreti di Lucca Perfume captures the soul of things. “Segreti di Lucca” is the essence of the gardens, churches and palazzos of Lucca. Prepared with natural oils and fine essences according to a long Florentine perfume tradition. The perfect way to remember your visit to Lucca. www.sdlprofumi.com

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L’Angolo di Santa Maria NovellaPerfumes, soaps, creams, herbal remedies and tonics prepared since 1612 based on the ancient remedies of the Dominican Monks of Santa Maria Novella in Florence.

Art/Music/Books/Beauty

Traditions & History

ExcursionsEvents of the Month

Food & Drink

Bilingual CrosswordPracticalProperties for Sale

Professionals

Gardens

Changing Places, Art by David Finkbeiner 6Pisa’s Teatro Verdi Opera Season 9The Arc of the Sun: Poetry in Pisa 11

Don Domenico Martinelli, Architect 5Teresa & the Long-Lived Women of Italy 20Lucca Comics 24Book Review, The Lucca Comic Book 25

11-18

Markets, Venues, What's On: Music, Art & Exhibitions, Traditions, Sports, Children, Cinema, Conferences

Thanksgiving 25

8,Readership Survey 4The Italian Constitution on its 70th Anniversary 8

Not Yet Autumn? 21

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Valgraziosa & La Certosa, a Grapevine Tour 10Escape to the Coast, Lerici & San Terenzo 23

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22, 26

27

Direttore Responsabile

Giuseppe Brandani

Editor

Norma Jean Bishop

Administration

Silvano Simi

Contributors

Helen Askham

Norma Jean Bishop

Michael Boyd

Marta Braun

Chiara Calabrese

David Collins

Judith Edwards

Thomas S. England

Simone Lippi

Sue Perry

Francis Pettitt

Debbi Rodden

Jenny Schutz

Shimon Shemtov

Carol Tomlinson

Marketing/Distribution

Claudia Casoli

Diana Gatti

Nicola Girolami

Silvano Simi

Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine October 20182

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on Domenico Martinelli was an architect from Lucca who became famous Delsewhere before he was

recognized at home. Now, 300 years after his death, the town of his birth has honoured one of its famous sons. Last month, in the context of an interna-tional conference organized by the Fondazione Banca del Monte di Lucca and the Istituto Storico Lucchese, with the State Library and State Archives of Lucca, Commune and Province of Lucca, and the Archdiocese, a plaque commemorating his death was placed in Saints Paolino and Donato Church.

Martinelli’s interpretations of late-Roman baroque architecture were much appreciated by the aristocracy in Austria and throughout this part of Europe. During his lifetime, Martinelli worked in Austria, the Czech Republic, Moravia, the Netherlands, Germany, Poland, Slovakia, and other countries.

Among his works are the Castle of Austerlitz and the palace of Martinelli was born into a modest family. His father Paolino Liechtenstein. was an agrimensore (what Italians today call geometra – the

After the death of his most important patron, Count Kaunitz of closest term in English is surveyor), so he was well qualified to Vienna, Martinelli returned to Rome, where he continued his help his son's early studies in mathematics and drawing. In 1673 academic career. Then in 1716 for reasons of health he returned to Domenico was ordained as a priest, as was often the case for first Lucca, where he died two years later.sons, then he began to study architecture. In 1678 he moved to

Last month’s conference hosted scholars not only from Pisa, Rome to study at the Accademia di San Luca, and in 1683 became Turin, Florence, and Rome, but also from Budapest, Vienna, and professor of Architecture and Perspective there. This led to Prague. The Martinelli Project in Dvorak (2007) had already important contacts, and by 1690 he had transferred to Vienna. honoured Martinelli’s architectural genius, exhibiting his drawings that normally are kept in Milan at the Castello Sforzesco.

In Lucca, among Martinelli’s creations are the Crucifix altar in San Michele in Foro, the Rosario altar in Sant'Angelo in Campo, and the S. Ignazio Chapel in San Giovanni & Reparata Church. Martinelli's letters, drawings, sketches and notes are conserved at the State Library and State Archive of Lucca.

The recently-published book Don Domenico Martinelli, Architetto Lucchese by Francesca Pisani (maria pacini fazzi editore) contains numerous illustrations of his works, especially in Lucca. These are beautiful to study, and make us appreciate the man’s talents even more than words can do.

– by Norma Jean Bishop

www.fondazionebmlucca.it


The plaque in Saints Paolino & Donato Church

Don Domenico Martinelli(30 November 1650 - 10 September 1718)

Lucca architect celebrated in Europeinterpreter of the Roman Baroque

professor at the Accademia di San Luca in Rome

on the 300th anniversary of his death the city remembers him

in the place where his remains were laid to rest

Lucca, Saints Paolino & Donato Church 19 September 2018

No Man Is a Prophet in his own Land

Don Domenico Martinelli, Architect

(in translation)

Saints Paolino & Donato Church

S. Ignazio Chapel inSan Giovanni & Reparata Church

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Editorial

October is the month when the autumn season finally arrives, the leaves change color, then beautifully fall on the city walls and pathways, where we can take enchanting strolls or bike rides. At least we hope so, Nature being so capricious lately (our gardening expert, Simone, expresses some doubts).

When the tourist crowds thin out, Lucca becomes the peaceful, quiet place where many of us have chosen to put down roots. That holds true until the five days of Comics and Games madness at the end of the month (31 October to 4 November). If you like costumes, youthful festivities, and photo ops, get ready, here it comes! If not, this may be a good time to take a little trip. Carol Tomlinson offers one suggestion, with her article entitled “Escape to the Coast”. Off-season is a great time to visit the seaside!

Grapevine invites you to join us on an outing into the peaceful Pisan hills near Calci, to the olive-growing area known as Valgraziosa. Here, on 3 November, we will enjoy lunch at a wonderful restaurant in the hills, and visit a spectacular site, La Certosa, which many will consider inaccessible without a car. All you have to do is relax while we show you one of our region's many hidden treasures. However, if you have been following the news, you are certainly aware that a huge forest fire has (as we go to print) destroyed hundreds of acres here in late September. Since this hurts not only the olive crop but also the recreational and tourist use of the area, let's show solidarity with the people living in this area by continuing with our plans. Anna-Livia Walker has offered to perform a concert at the ancient Carthusian monastery, also in solidarity with those hit by this tragedy. Please, book early! See the article on page 10.

Later in the month, on 22 November, Grapevine will hold its annual Thanksgiving lunch at La Cantina di Carignano, where Chef Paolo Monti creates his own abundant expression of the traditional feast. (See Francis' article about Thanksgiving on page 25.) This is a great time for us to meet new friends and old, of various nationalities. Being thankful is good for the soul, so join us and tell us what you are especially grateful for. In her article about Teresa (in the series Altri Tempi, Anni Fa), Judith reminds us that longevity is one of Italy's gifts, for this we can certainly give thanks!

I hope you enjoy the articles in Grapevine this month, and that you participate in the readership survey so that we can make the magazine even better.

Best wishes from Norma and the entire Grapevine team!


We can interpret these works as we will: in some we will envisage a landscape beyond a wall; others will seem aquatic even if blue, a color beloved of Finkbeiner, can never be the sea for him; we will see cosmic circles there where the many circles are not cosmic. And the artist will not be displeased, his work is always a gift that the observer must make his own.

Fear, joy, modesty and relief are Finkbeiner's feelings towards these works: fear of having risked too much, joy in having done so, modesty in offering the new, and the solace of seeing that however, in spite of himself, there are still fragments of continuity, reminiscences of things past that have become the signature of this artist.

– by Chiara Calabrese

In many of the geometries Finkbeiner creates, the natural color of the paper, a pale yellow, is part of the composition; in one plate we find him using the technique of collage. In the diptychs, once the first of the two paintings is completed, the second is already in the mind of the artist, born out of opposition or complementarity. As we shift our gaze from right to left or from top to bottom, we follow the evolution of his thought; we see it take shape before our eyes as well as in his mind. The diptychs are the dormers or attic windows from which we observe the expansion of thought into form. We can then speak of forma mentis in a literal sense, but also as the new way Finkbeiner conceives the genesis of his art. A new way that coincides with an important moment in his life: the time of the painstaking renovations of old farmhouses, to which he dedicated himself for decades, is finished. Those abandoned places remain in his heart but now he must travel in other directions.

Ristorante

In the heart of Lucca's Centro Storico, between Piazza San Francesco and Piazza Anfiteatro, you will find the restaurant Ammodonostro. A new, young, friendly eating place where it will be our pleasure to

create and offer you dishes of the highest quality. At lunchtime, there are daily specialities - simple and quick - in addition to the menu. Bookings welcomed.

This restaurant can accommodate individuals on gluten free diets

Via della Fratta 22, 55100 ~ Lucca tel 0583/953828 Open 11.30am-10pm - Closed Tuesday

www.ristoranteammodonostro.it - [email protected]


n 20 October at 6 pm, David Finkbeiner will open his new exhibition, Changing Places, at Galleria Bacci di Capaci Contemporanea in Via del OBattistero, Lucca. The exhibition will be on until 20

November.In a way, Changing Places is a work in progress. David

Finkbeiner is exhibiting 30 of the 40 works he has made since September 2017 in this new show, but they are part of a larger series that is not finished: the artist is still engaged daily in creating new work – single paintings, diptychs with horizontal or vertical juxtapositions, pairs of paintings meant to be displayed side by side. The technique is that of gouache on paper or on mylar. and colors. Even the view from a window, so beloved by the artist,

At first glance, the pictorial language of enlivened geometries creates a link with the past, albeit directed towards future things.strikes us as more urban and abstract Finkbeiner's new way of art mak-than in his earlier work. Almost ing interrupts the series of works immediately, however, we under- inspired by ruins and abandoned stand that the separation is not total; spaces that characterized 30 years of there is a continuity with the past. his production. It all began with a There has always been an abstracting series of small paintings, part of an process in Finkbeiner; abstracting in exhibition in spring 2017, that came the sense of separating, isolating into being almost by chance: in a fragments of reality so as to highlight period in which personal commit-the play of lines, shapes, light and ments limited the time he could color. It is the place his art inhabits devote to his art, Finkbeiner made that has now changed: it is no longer himself go to his studio every morn-the world, but the mind to which his ing at seven, limited himself to one path has led; it is from there he now piece of paper, three colors, and one selects and abstracts the details that hour of work to produce small works give life to his works. His art now that mark the origins of the ones he draws on his thought, an exercise of shows here.the mind reflecting upon itself, creating its own world of formal In Changing Places, however, the artist does not choose the relationships. The mind, moving freely between form and color, colors a priori nor limit their number, but lets the work evolve in shapes itself. Rarely is there a direct reference to external reality, the both the compositional forms and in the choice of colors. When coherence of the work is internal to the work itself. ruins were his inspiration, Finkbeiner knew where to start and

Yet experience still serves to leaven thought, so that from time where he wanted to go, with photography as an important support. to time quotes reappear from the past in a form that the observer But now the creative process has changed. Like an expert chess experiences as déjà vu. Looking at some of them, for example, one player, he sometimes sits for hours watching the work come into gets the impression that Finkbeiner used a magnifying glass to being, he waits in contemplation before deciding his next move, meticulously observe a work from his Bugnano series (2014-2015), and if it is the wrong move, the artist will let himself be taken by sur-identifying interesting details and revealing the texture of shapes prise with the unexpected patterns of play that appear before him.

Changing PlacesA new exhibition by David Finkbeiner

VIA ACQUACALDA 192 (opposite the Cantoni factory), tel 0583/496920. Vast selection of second-hand furniture, clothes, toys, videos, etc. Visit our store on eBay and our page on Facebook.

Open 10.00-12.30 / 15.30-19.30 CLOSED MONDAY www.mercatinousatolucca.it On-line sales

House clearance - Removals.

isa’s Teatro Verdi opera season programme (see page 28), under the artistic direction of Stefano Vizioli and with the grant-in-aid of the Italian Ministry for Arts and Culture for Tuscany region, can only be described as fabulously enterprising. True, there PPare immortal favourites like La Bohème (16 and 17 February 2019), Lucia di

Lammermoor (18 and 20 January 2019), and Mosè in Egitto (9 and 11 November 2018), but there is also a more unusual and not-to-be-missed repertoire.

How about John Gay's Beggar's Opera (20 and 21 October), which so subtly changed the course of opera in England? This year it's a new version by Burton and Carsen, musically conceived by William Christie. Or Giuseppe Sellitti's (or Sellitto's) La Vedova Ingegnosa (9 December), written in that golden operatic age, the Neapolitan eighteenth century? And if La Vedova isn't enough to whet your appetite, it's a double bill with Il Maestro di Musica, a Pergolesi-based pasticcio.

Don't get too much of an Oedipus complex, for it's not Stravinsky's but Leoncavallo's Edipo Re, that's being performed on March 1st and 3rd. This is the Pagliacci master's last, uncompleted opera (finished off by Pennacchio and first fully staged in 1958 in Siena), performed in another double bill with Poulenc's La voix humaine. If you've ever had a dramatically love-lorn conversation with electronic interference on your telefonino then this is definitely one for you….

(P.S. If I could I'd book all of them!)

Ticket sales for all operas start from Saturday 13 October and by phone (+39 050 941 111) from Tuesday 16 October.

On line bookings at Teatro Verdi's website at www.teatrodipisa.pi.it

or the Vivaticket channel.For further details and booking options see

http://www.teatrodipisa.pi.it/calendario-operaAll performances start at 8.30 pm,

except for Sundays when they start at 3.30 pm.

– You can follow Francis Pettitt's blog at http://longoio3.wordpress.com

for 2018-19

A Truly Well-Seasoned Seasonat Pisa’s Gorgeous Teatro Verdi

Beggar's Opera

Giovanni Battista Pergolesi

Ruggero Leoncavallo

Francis Poulenc


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electric gates. With either garden or panoramic balcony. APE class B. 150sqm € 200,000 to € 235,000. 75sqm € 125,000 to € 135,000.

Conversations in San Francesco: The Italian Constitution


www.eventiintoscana.it

fter the Fascist period and the

chaos of the war years, the

Italian Constitution was Acreated by the Constituent

Assembly, which was selected by popular

vote in 1946. This document defining the

fundamental principles of the new Italian

Republic was drafted in 1947 and

approved on 1 January 1948.

To celebrate the Constitution's

seventieth year, the Fondazione Cassa di

Risparmio di Lucca is hosting a conference

series in the beautiful Church of San

Francesco, in Piazza San Francesco,

entitled Le parole della Constitutione, 70

anni dopo (The words of the Constitution, 70 years later). From 5 words in the Constitution, about which there is still lively debate

October to 6 December, esteemed Italian scholars will talk about today.

the meaning of this precious document up to the present time. Italy’s Patrimonio Culturale, or cultural heritage, has always

The first talk, on Friday 5 October, will be given by Michele been a subject of discussion. Indeed, it has been said that Italy has

Ainis, an expert on the Constitution. He will provide an more treasures than any other country in the world, and it ranks

introduction to the Constitution and explain the key terms number 1 for UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Salvatore Settis,

contained in the first 12 articles, known as the Fundamental former director of the Scuola Normale di Pisa and an attentive

Principles. critical observer of Italy’s cultural reality, will speak on

On Saturday 13 October, journalist and writer Marcello Patrimonio Culturale on Saturday 1 December.

Veneziana will talk about the term Patria, while on Friday 19 Finally, on Thursday 6 December, the word Lavoro will be

October Paolo Bolpagni and Valdo Spini will discuss Arte and addressed by Enrico Giovannini, former Labor minister and

Cultura, in Italy but also in Europe. Bolpagni is an art historian president of ISTAT (labor statistics office). This word from the

and director of Lucca's Fondazione Ragghianti, while Spini is a first line of the Constitution is still one of its most debated: L'Italia

former politician and currently President of the Associazione è una Repubblica democratica, fondata sul lavoro. Italy is a

delle istituzioni di cultura italiane. democratic Republic founded on work. And yet, a conundrum: its

On Saturday 17 November, the topic will be Razza (race), in youth unemployment is among the highest in Europe (exceeded

memory of the Racial Laws of 1938. A brief film will present the only by Greece, Spain, and Portugal)….

testimony of a survivor of the racial persecutions. The speakers Non-native speakers of Italian will have to make an effort to

will be Michele Battini, historian of Judaism, and writer Alfredo follow these discussions, but what a golden opportunity to really

De Girolamo. Special guest audience: Lucca students. appreciate what it means to be Italian!

Saturday 24 November will be the occasion for three writers

to present three words: Massimo Onofri will speak about All the Conversations begin at 9pm except for 17 Nov.

Sovranità, Carmen Pellegrino about Eguaglianza, and Elena (in the morning, but exact time not yet defined)

Stancanelli about Libertà. They will address the meaning of these and are free to the public.

GRAPEVINE

October 2018 pull-

out events calendar


General markets Books and prints Arts and crafts

Lucca, Piazza San Giusto last Sat/SundayLucca, Corte del Biancone DailyLucca, S. Francesco. fruits/vegetables Wed 4-7pmLucca, Corso Garibaldi 2nd weekend of the month

Lucca, near the fairground Wed & Sat a.m.Antiques Marina di Pietrasanta Wednesday afternoons

B. Giannotti, Foro Boario Sat a.m. Lucca 3rd Sat/Sunday Castelnuovo Garfagnana 1st weekend of the monthS. Maria a Colle Thurs a.m. Altopascio 2nd Sunday Pieve Fosciana last Sunday

Ponte a Moriano Tues a.m. Montecarlo 2nd SundayPlants and flowers

Forte dei Marmi 1st Sat/Sunday S. Maria del Giudice Mon a.m. Lucca, Corso Garibaldi Friday morningsPietrasanta 1st SundayPietrasanta Thurs a.m. Pietrasanta 3rd SundayBarga 2nd Sunday

Marina di Pietrasanta Sat a.m.Viareggio 4th Sat/Sunday Markets in Florence (the biggest)

Tonfano Sat a.m. Bientina 4th Sat/Sunday Piazza San Lorenzo 7-2 daily, 7-5 Sat, closed SundaysCastelnuovo Garfagnana Thurs a.m. Pescia 4th Sunday Parco delle Cascine Tuesdays 7am to 2pmPescia Sat a.m. Querceta Saturday mornings Piazza dei Ciompi Flea Market 9am to 7.30pm daily

Ma

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WHAT’S ON IN & AROUND

The Arc of the Sun A Special Evening of English Poetry

Join us for the first event of our new 2018/2019 season! University of Pisa Professor Anthony L. Johnson will delight us with readings of both his own poetry, including selections from his published collections The Arc of the Sun and Marigolds, Stilts, Solitudes: Selected Poems, 1956-1984, as well as other famed English poets who have influenced him (T.S. Eliot, W.B. Yeats, Peter Russell). Most poems will be accompanied by Italian translations, by Italian poet and translator Ariodanta Marianni and others.

The reading will be followed by an open discussion with Prof. Johnson, during which wine and catered refreshments will be served. Professor Johnson's talk on Byron, Shelley and The Pisan Circle was the first event we did in collaboration with Palazzo Blu as part of our joint series, Crossroads. That event drew an overflow audience and has remained an unforgettable talk for all those who were in attendance. This event on 6 October promises to be the same, if not better, due to its more personal and intimate nature.

Where: NEW YORK ENGLISH ACADEMY, Via San Paolo 11, Pisa (right near Chiesa della Spina)When: Saturday, 6 October, 5.30pm to 7.30pm

Contribution: 12 euro / 10 euro for NYEA and all other studentsSpace is very limited, so we kindly ask you to reserve in advance through [email protected].

Our next event will feature writer and art-historian Silvia Panichi who will present her new book, Roma Antica e la Nuova America (Donzelli, 2018), which explores the profound influence of Ancient Rome on the Founding Fathers of the United States – another beautiful opportunity to explore the nexus of Italian and Anglo-Saxon cultures and history. Stay tuned for more details!

Visiting the

Valgraziosaow many of you have been dreaming of an escape from the busy life you lead? Wouldn’t it be HHnice to relax in a corner of paradise!

Well, you can and not too far from Lucca, through a tunnel leading towards Pisa and then a bend to the left, along a road skirting the mountains, until you reach the aptly-named Valgraziosa (gracious valley). These hills lush with olive trees separate Pisa from Lucca. It’s fair to say that most Lucchesi have never visited this quiet place, with the majestic architecture of its Carthusian monastery (founded in 1366) known as La Certosa di Calci It would be wonderful to stay here for a few days or longer, but the last monk left in 1969 and La Certosa was closed to habitation. We can, though, visit the cellars where the monks meditated and relaxed in peace, the refectory where they ate, the gardens, the canteens, etc.

carciofi, gnocchetti conventino (zucchine, pomodoro e pecorino di fossa) poi melanzane alla parmigiana, dessert, caffè e bevande. In English: tomato/bread soup, vegetable quiche, polenta with toppings, fried pasta dough, artichoke risotto, gnocchi with zucchini, tomato and pecorino cheese, eggplant parmigiana, dessert, coffee, and beverages.

All-inclusive menù di carne: salumi, crostini, pappa al pomodoro e pasta fritta, maltagliati alla fattoressa (ragù e funghi porcini), tagliata di maialino con cipolle di Tropea, patate al forno, dessert, caffè e bevande. In English: cold meats, polenta with toppings, tomato/bread soup, fried pasta dough, pasta with ragù and porcini mushrooms, pork with Tropea onions, roasted potatoes, dessert, coffee, and beverages.

After a bit of a walk, or a rest next to the “book crossings” tree, we will return to the Certosa to visit one of Europe’s oldest museums, created in

On S rd, Grapevine the 1600s in Pisa and transferred to the Certosa site in the 1970s. It is filled with age-old curiosities of natural history. scenic trip to this region. Leaving Lucca from Porta San Pietro by

Finally, Anna-Livia Walker will offer a brief harp concert in private bus (11 am), we will arrive at Calci in 30 minutes and visit this magical setting, then our coach should have us back in Lucca the Certosa A guardian will unlock the doors so we can see how by 5.30 pm.the monks lived and worked. Claudia Casoli and Norma Bishop,

who have both written about the Certosa in Grapevine, will provide information in English and Italian.

Leaving La Certosa, our bus will take us through wandering All inclusive price: 65 euros.lanes and tiny villages, a short 10 minute drive to a lovely hilltop

restaurant, Il Conventino, at the village of Tre Colli. In this A minimum of 20 people (max. 30) panoramic spot, after lunch some will want to linger over coffee

are needed to confirm. and dessert, while others may want to take a walk along a hiking Deadline for booking & payment, 18 October. trail or through the village. Weather permitting, we may have

Please note: payment is non-refundablecoastal views stretching from Livorno to Pisa, and even to some except for 50% up to 5 days before departure.islands. As for the food, these are the menus:

All-inclusive menù vegetariano: pappa al pomodoro, To book, email [email protected] di verdura, crostini e pasta fritta / primi piatti risotto ai

.

aturday November 3 is sponsoring a

.


The listings published by Grapevine are taken from reliable sources and reproduced in good faith.

However, to avoid disappointment, readers are advised to check information

before setting off.

Puccinielasualucca for its summer season (31 March to 31 October)

offers daily concerts at the Church of San Giovanni at 7pm. Tickets are sold at the door, or call 340 8106042.

www.puccinielasualucca.com - [email protected]

Program: Mondays Puccini & Mozart, Tuesdays Puccini’s Women, Wednesdays Italian Opera Recital, Thursdays Puccini & Verdi, Fridays Puccini Opera Recital, Saturdays A Night at the Opera,

Sundays Puccini & the Neapolitan Song Tradition

17Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine October 2018 WHAT’S ON IN & AROUND

25 26 275pm, Lucca, Santa Caterina Church (corner Via V. Emanuele & Via del Crocifisso). Concert by Cluster composers with the Yugen

Ensemble. Organized by Stefano Teani. 6pm, Lucca, Boccherini Auditorium, Piazza del Suffragio. Boccherini Gold concert. Gilberto Rossetti (piano). www.boccherini.it9.30pm, Picciorana (Lu), GreenheArt Gardens & Lifestyle by Marino Favilla, Via di Picciorana, 262/A. Grande, grande, grande. L'ultimo concerto (1978-1918), scenes &musical narration by Enrico Marchi & Elisa Martini, with the participation of Romina Malagoli, Giulio D'Agnello & Massimiliano Mornelli. Donations will be given to the Casa dei Diritti dei Bambini, Casermetta San Paolino, in Lucca. Tel. 392 2661159, [email protected], www.greenheartfavilla.it

46pm, Lucca, Boccherini Auditorium, Piazza del Suffragio. Boccherini Gold. Flute concert (students). www.boccherini.it

129.15pm, Lucca, Real Collegio. Lucca Jazz Donna concert with Cecilia Sanchietti for Blu Jazz-Chicago, Nicoletta Noè & Silvia Valtieri for Filibusta Records & Giulia Galliani for Dodicilune, with exhibit I Segni della Musica, drawings/paintings of jazz/blues/rock musicians by Bruno Pollacci. www.luccajazzdonna.it

59pm, Lucca, Boccherini Auditorium, Piazza del Suffragio. Boccherini Gold. Bach concert (students). www.boccherini.it9pm, Lucca, San Martino Cathedral. Concert by the Hamburg Elmshorn Chorus with organist/director Christian Schneider & organist Giulia Biagetti. www.flamlucca.it9pm, Capannori, Teatro Artè. Concert by Gloria Trapani Quartet, with exhibit I Segni della Musica, drawings/paintings of jazz/blues/rock musicians by Bruno Pollacci. www.luccajazzdonna.it10pm, Barga, Barga Jazz Club. Angelo Lazzeri Trio. www.bargajazz.it, tel. 0583 723860.

69pm, Vorno, Tenuta dello Scompiglio, The Sinking of the Titanic, concert in primo assoluto by composer/double bass Gavin Bryars. With viola, cello, flute, bass clarinet, keyboard, electric guitar. Info: 0583 971125.9.15pm, Capannori, Teatro Artè. Lucca Jazz Donna concert & art by Bruno Pollacci. www.luccajazzdonna.it

189pm, Lucca, Boccherini Auditorium, Piazza del Suffragio. Musica Ragazzi. Schumann

between Imagination & Folly.

Leonore Orchestra. Associazione Musicale Lucchese Project Floema. Free admission.

Friday Thu

198.30pm, Lucca, Teatro del Giglio opera season. Suor Angelica & Gianni Schicchi. Tel. box office 0583 465320.

205pm, Lucca, San Giuseppe Oratorio, Piazza Antelminelli. Music by

George Crumb for voice & piano by Maria Elena Romanazzi & Raffaella Ronchi. Assoc. Cluster. Tel. 347 1856883.6pm, Lucca, Boccherini Auditorium, Piazza del Suffragio. Boccherini Gold. Leonardo Lucchesi,piano.8.30pm, Pisa, Teatro Verdi, Beggar’s Opera. See article on page 9.

134pm, Lucca, Liceo Musicale Auditorium, Piazza Sant’Augustino. Student performances for Lucca Jazz Donna. www.luccajazzdonna.it6pm, Lucca, Boccherini Auditorium, Piazza del Suffragio. Boccherini Gold concert. Agata Minnocci & Veronica Tripodi (piano). 9.15pm, Lucca, Real Collegio. Lucca Jazz Donna. Sarabande Elettra Capecchi & Carlotta Forasassi, Laura Avanzolini & Sara Jane Ghiotti Quartet + exhibit I Segni della Musica by Bruno Pollacci. 11pm, Caffè

delle Mura, Jazz Donna jam session. www.luccajazzdonna.it 9.30pm, GreenheArt Gardens & Lifestyle by Marino Favilla, Via di Picciorana, 262/A – Picciorana (LU). L'inutile occorrente e altre

brevità, concert & reading by Luca & Beatrice Benicchi. Tel. 392 2661159, [email protected], www.greenheartfavilla.it

Saturday

Coming UpTeatro del Giglio opera season: 23 & 24 November Ultima Chisciotte, 18 & 20 January, Otello. 22 & 24 February, Lucia di Lammermoor. 16 & 17 March, La bohème. New subscriptions can be made from 25 August to 6 September. The box office is open Wednesdays to Saturdays 10.30am to 1pm & 3 to 6pm.Teatro del Giglio, 9pm 15 Nov. blues guitarist Robben Ford. Organized by D’Alessandro & Galli. Pre-sales at TicketOne - Infoline 0584 46477.Pisa, Teatro Verdi opera season. 9 & 11 Nov. Mosè in Egitto, 9 Dec. La Vedova Ingegnosa & Il Maestro di Musica, 18 & 20 Jan. Lucia di Lammermoor,16/17 Feb.

La Bohème, 1 & 3 March Edipo Re & La voix humaine. See article in October Grapevine.

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To locate the venues, see the map & list on page 13.

Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine October 2018 12 WHAT’S ON IN & AROUND

79.15pm, Lucca Animando concert (Il Settecento Musicale a

Lucca), Santa Maria Dei Servi Church. Music for violin & orchestra, by Francesco Barsanti, Alfredo D’Ambrosio, Laura Bortolotta, Christian Sebastianutto. Orchestra Nuove Assonanze with Alan

Freiles. www.animandolucca.it

145pm, Lucca, San Micheletto. Music by Francesco Saverio Gemignani with reading of T. Tasso’s Gerusalemme liberata. Elisa Baciocchi Baroque Ensemble & Piero Nannini. Lucca Chamber Music Festival. €10/€7. Tel. 340 3181193, https://luccachambermusicfestival.org

15 166pm, Lucca, Boccherini Auditorium, Piazza del Suffragio. Boccherini Gold concert. Ezio

Guerra (violin). www.boccherini.it

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24

108 9 6pm, Lucca, Boccherini Auditorium, Piazza del Suffragio. Boccherini Gold. Piano concert by Cristiano Cappagli. www.boccherini.it

2 3

214pm, Lucca, Teatro del Giglio opera season. Suor Angelica &

Gianni Schicchi.5pm, Lucca, San Giuseppe Oratory, Piazza Antelminelli. Concert

in honor of 4 recently-deceased artists: Claudio Giosè Boncompagni, Daniele Lombardi, Fabio Neri, Joseph Vella. Ilaria

Baldaccini (piano) performs their music, also that of Francesco Cipriano & Girolamo Deraco. Assoc. Cluster, Tel. 347 1856883.9pm, Lucca, San Francesco Church. Conversation / concert

with Irene Grandi. www.luccajazzdonna.it3.30pm, Pisa, Teatro Verdi, Beggar’s Opera. See article on page 9.

Wed Mon Tues Sunday

236pm, Lucca, Boccherini Auditorium, Piazza del Suffragio. Boccherini Gold concert. Ezio Guerra (piano). www.boccherini.it

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Music & TheatreOctober 2018

285pm, Lucca, Santa Caterina Church (corner Via V. Emanuele& Via del Crocifisso). Concert by Cluster duo Alberto

Cavallaro (sax) & Federico Tramontana (vibraphone). 5pm, Lucca, San Micheletto Auditorium, Elisa Baciocchi Chamber Music Festival. L. Boccherini String Quintet: Carlo Alberto Valenti, Valeria Barsanti, Claudio Valenti, Tommaso Valenti, Carlo Benvenuti. https://luccachambermusicfestival.org

Tonfano

Florence 90km

Prato

Capannori

San Gennaro

Viareggio32km

Massa Carrara

Forte dei Marmi

Pietrasanta

Seravezza

Camaiore

Abetone

Barga

Ponte a Moriano

Castelnuovo Garfagnana

Bagni di Lucca26km

AAA

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I2J1

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Via S. PaolinoVia S. Croce Via Elisa

Via F

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o

Montecarlo 20km

Porcari14km

Tassignano

Torre del Lago

Vecchiano

PISA 26km Vorno

DF

LT

SS W,X,Y,YY,Z1,Z2,Z3,Z4

H1

M1M2

M3

M4

H2

Capannori

San Giuliano Terme

Lucca: Around Lucca: S. Seravezza, Palazzo Mediceo, Viale L.

L. Vorno: Tenuta dello Scompiglio. Via di Vorno Amadei 230. Every day 5pm to midnight, also A. San Francesco Church Complex. 67. www.delloscompiglio.org Sat-Sun 10.30am to 12.30pm (noon). 0584 AA. ex Casa del Boia.

M1. Montecarlo: Pasquinelli Gallery, Via Carmignani 20. 757443.B. Lu.C.C.A. Museum of Contemporary Art, Via M2. Porcari, Fondazione Lazzareschi. SS. Torre del Lago. Art for the Puccini Festival

della Fratta 36. www.luccamuseum.comM3. Tassignano, Artemisia Cultural Center & (www.puccinifestival.it). Puccini Theatre Foyer.

C. MUST, Urban Museum of Lucca, Palazzo Library, via dell’Aeroporto 10. 0583 936427.Guinigi, Via Guinigi 29. History, archaeology, M4. San Gennaro, Palazzo Bocella, Via Celli 52. Pisa:photography. N. Ponte a Serraglio: Grapevine Cultural Assoc. T1. Palazzo Blu, www.palazzoblu.it

La Rondine Gallery, Via V. Emanuele. D1. Fondazione Banca del Monte, Pza San T2. Piazza dei Miracoli. www.opapisa.it O. Ponte a MorianoMartino 12. www.fondazionebancadelmonte.it T3. SMS Centro Espositivo Museale. Via S. Barga: D2. Banca del Monte, Piazza San Martino. 0583 Michele degli Scalzi 176. 050 544767. P1. Town Hall Gallery, Via di Borgo 18. T4. Graphics Museum, Palazzo Lanfranchi 450278.P2. Mount Tabor Ecumenical Center, Via delle Lugarno G. Galileo. 050 2216060. E. Fondazione Ragghianti, San. Micheletto. 0583

Mura 12. www.mounttabor.it.T5. San Giuliano Terme, Roncioni Villa. 467205. P3. Villa Libano, Via del Sasso, 7. Nuovo Circolo

F. Cathedral Museum, Pza Antelminelli. 0583 dei Differenti. Art exhibitions with live music. Prato:

490530, [email protected], www.facebook.com/circolodifferenti.U. Palazzo Pretorio.

P4. Fondazione Ricci, Via Roma 20.www.museocattedrale.lucca.itwww.palazzopretorio.prato.it

Versilia:G. Villa Bottini, Via Elisa 9. V. Textile Museum. Via S. Chiara. Q1. Pietrasanta. Sant’Agostino Museum, Pza H1. Palazzo Ducale, Pza. Napoleone. www.museodeltessuto.it

Duomo. 0584 795268.H2. Palazzo Mansi, Via Galli Tassi 43. tel. 0583 V V. Teatro Metastasio. Via B. Cairoli 59.

Q2. La Meridiana Gallery, Via Barsanti 29. 55570 www.luccamuseinazionali.it

Q3. Viareggio. Mercurio Arte Contemporanea 43.Florence:I1. Santa Giulia Church, Pza del Suffragio. Corso Garibaldi 116.W. Palazzo Strozzi. www.palazzostrozzi.orgI2. San Cristoforo Church, Via Fillungo. Q4. Viareggio. L. Viani Gallery of Modern & X. Accademia Gallery. Via Ricasoli 58/60. J1. State Archives, Piazza Guidiccioni. Contemporary Art. 0584 976510, www.gamc.it

www.unannodarte.itQ5. Viareggio. Villa Paolina, Via Machiavelli. J2. State Archives, Piazza Macelli. Y. Palatina Gallery. www.unannodarte.itQ6. Viareggio. Villa Argentina, Via Fratti 44 (ang. New exhibition space. YY. Villa Bardini, Costa San Giorgio 2. Via Vespucci).

J3. Domus Romana archaeological site. Via C. Z1. Argenti Museum. www.unannodarte.itForte dei Marmi:

Battisti 15. 0583 050060. Tues & Thurs Z2. Palazzo Medici Riccardi. R1. Villa Bertelli, Viale G. Mazzini 200, 0584 10am to 5pm www.domusromana.it Z3. Uffizi. www.unannodarte.it280292, www.villabertelli.it

K. Uscher Gallery, Via della Zecca 15. Z4. Gucci Museum. Piazza della Signoria 10. R2. Satire Museum, Pza Garibaldi 1. Daily 5pm KK. Real Collegio, Pza del Collegio 13. www.guccimuseo.comto midnight.

Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine October 2018 16

Art Exhibition Venues from A to Z


Porcari

Capannori

Colle di Compito & Pieve di Compito

Viareggio32km

Massa Carrara

Forte dei Marmi

Pietrasanta

Sant’Anna di Stazzema

Camaiore

Corsanico (Massarosa)

Tonfano

Torre del Lago

San Rossore Park

PISA

26km

Vorno

Gattaiola

San Giuliano Terme

Abetone

Celle dei Puccini(Pescaglia)

Benabbio

Villa Basilica

Pieve a Elici

Tofori

Ponte aMoriano

Camigliano

Barga


Bagni di Lucca26km

Lucca: Outside Lucca: 34. Pisa, Teatro Verdi, Via Palestro 40. 05094111, www.teatrodipisa.pi.it

20. Sinfonia Music Association, Via N. Sauro, 527 35. Pisa, Scuola Normale Concerts. www.sns.it,1. Lucca Summer Festival, Pza Napoleone.21. Montecarlo, Teatro dei Rassicurati 050 941111 or 050 94118836.0584 46477 www.ticketone.it22. Porcari: Auditorium Vincenzo Da Massa 36. Pisa, Music under the Tower (OPA).2a/b. San Giovanni and Dei Servi Churches.

Carrara & Piazza Felice Orsi www.opapisa.it See page17.www.puccinielasualucca.com 23. Capannori, Artè, Via Carlo Piaggia. 37. Florence, Maggio Musicale Fiorentino.www. sagramusicalelucchese.com24. Tenuta dello Scompiglio, Via di Vorno 67, www.operadifirenze.it3. Lucca Opera Festival, Oratorio Angelo

Vorno. 0583 971125, 38. Florence, Teatro Verdi, Via Ghibellina 99.Custode, Via degli Angeli Custodi.www.delloscompiglio.org www.teatroverdionline.itwww.iconcertidegliangelicustode.com

25. Ponte a Moriano 39. Florence, Santo Spirito, Piazza Santo Spirito4. Fond. Ragghianti, San Micheletto, AML,a. Teatro I. Nieri, Piazza Cesare Battisti, www.accademiadelispiritati.orgLucca In Musica. 0583 469960,0583 465320. 40. S. Anna di Stazzema Peace Organ Festival,www.associazionemusicalelucchese.itb. Accademia Montegral, Convento 0584 772025, www.santannadistazzema.org5a. Teatro del Giglio, Pza Giglio. 0583 465320, dell'Angelo, 0583 406300. 41. Tonfano, Marina di Pietrasanta, Teatro Sant’closed Mondays and Sundays,

26. Celle dei Puccini, Pescaglia. Puccini Antonio, Via Verdi, 335543579, 3471305764.www.teatrodelgiglo.comMuseum. 42. Torre del Lago Puccini, Festival Pucciniano.

5b. Teatro San Girolamo, 27. Altopascio. Via Francigena Festival, 0584 359322.www.puccinifestival.it

www.teatrodelgiglio.comGemignani Music School. 43. Pieve a Elici (Massarosa), AML 0583469960,

6. Real Collegio, Piazza del Collegio28. Colle di Compito and Pieve di Compito, www.associazionemusicalelucchese.it

7. Boccherini Institute Auditorium, Pza DelCompitese Culture Centre. 44. Corsanico (Massarosa) Organ Festival.

Suffragio, www.boccherini.it29. Camigliano (Capannori) www.corsanicomusica.it

8. San Francesco Church, Pza San Francesco30. Bagni di Lucca, Teatro Accademico, Via 45. Gattaiola, Villa Rossi

9. San Michele Church, Pza San MicheleRoma. www.prolocobagnidilucca.it/ 46. Pietrasanta, Teatro la Versiliana. Viale Morin

10. San Paolino Church, Via San [email protected] (320 6320032) 16, Marina di Pietrasanta. 0584 265757,

11. San Romano Auditorium 31a. Barga, Villa Libano. Nuovo Circolo dei Complete program www.laversilianafestival.it12. Palazzo Pretorio Loggia, Pza San Michele Differenti. 47. San Giuliano Terme. Villa Roncioni (loc.13. Santa Maria Corteorlandini Church 31b. Opera Barga. 0583 711068, Pugnano). Costumes & hats. Tuesdays to14. Piazza Cittadella, Puccin’s birthplace, [email protected], www.operabarga.it Sundays 4pm to 8pm. 050 817900,

museum. 31c. Barga Jazz. 0583 724418, [email protected], www.fondazionecerratell.it15. Botanical Garden concerts, www.bargajazz.it 48. Montecatini Terme, Estate Regina Music

www.ortobotanicodilucca.it, 0583 442160. 31d. Belcanto in Barga. 340 5831419, Festival, at the Terme & Teatro Verdi. Until 416. San Martino (Duomo) [email protected] Oct. 0527 78903, www.estateregina.it17. Amphitheatre Jazz, www.belcantoinbarga.com 49. Forte dei Marmi, Villa Bertelli, Viale Mazzini

www.comune.lucca.it/anfiteatrojazz. See 31e. Il Ciocco, Castelvecchio Pascoli. 0583 7691. 200. 0584 787251 www.villabertelli.itarticle in June Grapevine. 33a. Castelnuovo Garfagnana, IAM Music 50. Prato, Teatro Metastasio, Via B. Cairoli 59.

18. Santa Caterina Church, Via Vittorio Veneto Festival, www.iamitalia.com 51. Badia di Camaiore Organ Festival,19. Palazzo Ducale, Sala Tobino 33b. Teatro Alfieri, Castelnuovo G., 0583 644185. www.camaioreorganfestival.it

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Montecarlo 20km

Montecatini Terme

Altopascio

Prato

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37,38,39


Music & Theatre Venues


Don’t miss the “last days” of exhibits, shown in red on the calendar below.

To locate the venues, see the map & list on page 16.

15Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine October 2018 WHAT’S ON IN & AROUND

WORTH THE TRIP ...Firenze,

Val d’Aosta (Bard),

Firenze,

Rovigo (Veneto),

Firenze,

Feltri (Bolzano),

Firenze,

Ferrara,

Palazzo Strozzi. Marina Abramovic, The

Cleaner. 10am to 8pm/Thursdays 10am to 11pm. Until 20 Matisse.

Jan. 2019. Tel. ‘055 264155, palazzostrozzi.org7 July to 14 October. €9. www.fortedibard.it

Ferragamo Museum, Piazza Santa Trinità 5. Italy

in Hollywood (1915-1927, the years Ferragamo was in Palazzo the USA). 10am to 7.30pm. €6. Until 10 March. Rovarella. Art & Magic, the www.ferragamo.com/museo fascination of the esoteric in

Europe. 28 Sept. to 27 Jan. Gallerie degli Uffizi, Aula Magliabechiana. The 2019. www.palazzorovarella.com

Leicester Codice of Leonardo Da Vinci, l’acqua microscopio della natura. €20/10. 29 Oct. to 20 Jan.2019. Castello Vescovile. New Feltri & Belluno Diocesan Museum. A

complete restoration of the Bishops Palace at the summit of the Via del Paradise, Salone Donatello in Basilica of San Lorenzo & western quadrant of the so-called “Vertical City” & its millenarian architecture. 27

Opera Medicea Laurenziana. Natus, sculptures by Ugo rooms of art, including frescoes by Mantegna & others.Riva, accompanied by a book of poetry by Davide Rondoni (ed. CartaCanta). Hours: Mon. to Sat. 10am to 5pm. Free Palazzo del Diamanti. Courbet & la Natura. 22 Sept. 2018 to 6 Jan. admission. From 8 Nov. 2018 to 7 Jan. 2019. Tel. 055 2019. 9am to 7pm daily. €13. Reservations: 0532 244949. 214042, www.operamedicealaurenziana.org www.palazzodiamanti.it

25

18

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12

19OPENING: 9.30pm, at GreenheArt Gardens & Lifestyle by Marino Favilla, Via di Picciorana, 262/A – Picciorana (LU). The Secret of Time: artworks by Sergio Fortuna, Paolo Staccioli & Maria Stuarda Varetti. Followed by a chat with the artists, by Maurizio Vanni. Tel. 392 2661159, [email protected], www.greenheartfavilla.it

26Lucca, LAST DAY: Galleria BessArte, via

Sant’Andrea 45, near Torre Guinigi. Silence,

Paintings by Guido Morelli. www.mercurioviareggio.com/morelli.htm

11Pisa,OPENING: Palazzo

Blu, Lungarno Gambacorti 9. From Magritte to

Duchamp, 1929: Il Grande Surrealismo dal

Centro Pompidou. Monday to Friday 10am to 7pm, Sat/Sun 10am to 8pm. €12/10/5. Until 17 Feb. Tel. 050 2204650, www.palazzoblu.it

6Lucca,OPENING: Real College, Piazza del Collegio. A life of Prejudices, photographic

event. www.iniziativaturistica.org Until 21 October.

13Lucca,OPENING: Corso Garibaldi.

Artisticamente, monthly handicrafts market 2nd weekend of each month. www.confcommercio.lu.it

27

Saturday Thu

20Lucca,

Lucca,

OPENING:

OPENING:

Via del Battistero, Galleria Bacci di Capaci Contemporanea. David Finkbeiner, Changing Places. 30 works produced since 2017. Until 20 November. Inauguration at 6pm. See article on pages 6-7.

Piazza dei Servi, Centro Culturale Agorà. Carta d’Epoca. 10am to 7pm. 30 exhibitors of fine & historic prints. Two days only.

Friday

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Carta d’Epoca at Agorà

GreenheArt

Exhibitions,

October 2018


ONGOING EXHIBITIONS:Lucca,

Viareggio,

Lucca,

Viareggio,Lucca,

Viareggio, Pisa,

Villa Guinigi Museum, Via della Quarquonia. Treasures tracing the history of Lucca. In January the Cristo Eucaristico, a polychrome terracotta by Matteo Civitali (1436-1501), was returned to Lucca by the Italian police & placed in the museum more than 70 years after it was stolen by the Germans from Santa Maria della Rosa Church in February, 1944. The museum is open (summer hours) Tuesdays to Saturdays Villa Paolina, Via Machiavelli 2. Magnifiche 8.30am to 1.30pm & (for accompanied visits) 3.30pm to 5.30pm. Tel. 0583 496033. Presenze: D’Annunzio, Puccini, Pascoli. Painter Sandra Rigali

& photographer Sandra Caterina Westbrooke. Hours: Wed to Palazzo Mansi Museum. Summer hours: Tuesdays to Sat. 3.30pm to 7.30pm, Sun. 9.30am to 1.30pm, 3.30pm to

Saturdays 9.30am to 11.30am & 2.30pm to 4.30pm. Closed 7.30pm. www.comune.viareggio.lu.it on Sundays, holidays & holiday Mondays.

Centro Matteucci per l’Arte Moderna. Ghiglia &

Modigiliani, Classico & Moderno. Until 4 Nov. Tues. to Sat. 5.30pm to 10.30pm, Sat/Sun 10am to 1pm & 5.30pm to 10.30pm. centromatteucciartemoderna.it

GAMC Museum. Possenti, di segni & di sogni Palazzo Blu, Lungarno Gambacorti 9. Pisa Città della

(of signs & of dreams). Until 11 Nov. Tel. 0584 581118, Ceramica. Until 5 November 2018. Tel. 050 2204650, www.gamc.it www.palazzoblu.it

Lu.C.C.A. Lucca Center of Contemporary Art, Via della Fratta 36. Henri Cartier-Bresson in America 16 June to 11 November. Tuesdays to Sundays 10am to 7pm, closed Mondays. See article in August Grapevine.

23

29 30 31OPENING: Lucca

Comics & Games, Until 4 Nov. Throughout the historic center. See article on page 24.

24

14LAST DAY:

LAST DAY:

Lucca,

Lucca,

Corso Garibaldi. Artisticamente, monthly handicrafts market 2nd weekend of each month. www.confcommercio.lu.it

Via della Fratta. Lu.C.C.A. Center of Contemporary Art. Elio De Luca, Amore, Canto dei Cantici. In LuCCA Lounge & Underground. Hours: Tu-Th 10am to 7pm, closed Mondays.

16 17

98 10

21LAST DAY: Lucca, Piazza dei Servi, Centro Culturale Agorà. Carta d’Epoca. 9am to 6pm. 30 exhibitors of fine & historic prints. Two days only.

28LAST DAY:

LAST DAY:

Lucca,

Seravezza,

Porta S. Pietro, on the wall at Lucchesi nel Mondo offices. Gelaterie di Lucchesia, history of an art & a Lucca emigration. Photographic/documentary exhibit. 10am to noon, 4.30pm to 6.30pm. www.lucchesinelmondo.it

Fondazione Arkad. 289 Viale Leonetto Amadei. CAVA,

exhibit honoring 500th anniversary of Michelangelo in Versilia. The cave of white marble as a work of art sculpted by nature. Over 100 works by 78 different artists. Monday to Friday 10am to 1pm, Sat/Sun 5pm to 8pm & by appointment. [email protected], 0584 757034.

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7LAST DAY: Pisa, Palazzo Blu, Lorenzo

Mattotti, Immagini tra arte, letteratura e

musica. Until 7 October 2018.

Wed TuesMon Sunday

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Exhibitions, October 2018

Cruciword adapted from Helen Askham

Clues in English have Italian answers. Clues in Italian have English answers.

With

Brio!

September solution

ACROSS

3 Chestnuts (8)

7 Sticky tape (6)

8 Beautiful, airy, cheery, a Sardinian wine (7)

9 Brillante (6)

10 Cosa dire quando ricevo #8 across (6)

11 I create (4)

13, 5 down Have a good day! (5,8)

15 Stock cube (4)

17 Quello che si può dire di un vino non

buono (6)

18 Football coach (6)

19 Bestia (6)

20 Nordico (6)

21 Unheard-of male (8)

DOWN

1 Marcatore (6)

2 Stygian (6)

3 Castle in ... France (7)

4 Therapy (7)

5 See 13 across

6 Rubber band (8)

11 Lucca composer (8)

12 Nth female (6)

13 Brigante (7)

14 Not even (7)

15 Desiderio (6)

16 # in music (6)

Quality TranslationsEditing & Book Preparation

Consulting

Tel. 333 8617962Fax 0583 164254

email: [email protected]

Editions

GRAPEVINE

closed Sunday evening

and Monday

Via della Cervia - LUCCA

Tel. 0583 55881

Fax 0583 312199www.bucadisantantonio.it

[email protected]

See

for total hair care

Shampoo and dry €17.00Cut €13.00/25.00Colour €30.00Manicure €14.00Hair drying self-service €5.00

Hours: Monday 13.30 to 18.00

Tuesday to Saturday 8.30 to 18.30Piazza San Frediano 3 - Lucca

Tel/fax 0583 467375 [email protected]

We now have a barber for men.

Since 1860

Traditional Lucca cuisine

Lucca - Via Anfiteatro, 5-7-9tel. and fax 0583 [email protected]


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S C O T R O O MS A A S P A GP U L I Z I A I N N OA C I N M O TD U O M O T R E D I C IE L N A E S CS M I L E S T R E N O


HOLIDAYS, TRADITIONS, SPORTS, OUTDOORS CONFERENCES

MEET-UP GROUPS & GRAPEVINE ACTIVITIES

COMING UP

CINEMA

All Saints Day (Ognissanti) on November 1st is a sacred na- Pisa, New York English Academy. Poetry reading in English. tional holiday when Italians remember their loved ones. 6 October 5.30pm. Details on page 11.Chrysanthemums are purchased for the graves.

Lucca, San Francesco Church. Conversations: The Italian November 2nd is known as the Day of the Dead. Constitution 70 Years Later. In Italian. 7 discussions held from

5 October to 6 December. Free admission. See details on page 8.November 4th is the day of national unity.

Lucca, Fondazione Banca del Monte di Lucca, Piazza San March for Peace & Brotherhood #perugiassisi, 7 Oct. Martino 7. 6 Oct. 6pm. Napoleon’s Egyptian Campaign, Perugia to Assisi. Departure by pullman 5am from Lucca, Borgo

1798-99 by Silvia Giselli & Vittorio Lino Biondi. In Italian. Free a Mozzano, Camaiore, Capannori, Castelnuovo Garfagnana,

admission. www.ciscu.eu, www.napoleoneparigitoscana.itGallicano, Pietrasanta, Viareggio. Reservations by 3 Oct. General information: Scuola per la Pace, tel. 0583 417481,

Lucca, Biblioteca Statale, Saloni Monumentali. On Mondays email [email protected]

8,15,22,29 Oct. at 5pm, & continuing until next February:

Readings & discussions (in Italian) of Virgil’s Enede (Guido Lucca, on the Walls at Baluardo San Salvatore. 7 Oct. begin-Padano tr.). Free & open to the public.ning 3pm (in case of rain, 14 Oct.). Festival of Bastardini

(mixed-breed dogs) to benefit Pontetetto dog & cat shelter. MIAC Lucca, International Paper Industry Meeting, 10/11/12 Oct.Lottery drawing at 5.30pm. Prizes to cutest pup, Mr. & Mrs. Dog,

Barbetta Bianca, Best in Show. Associazione C.A.ni (ex-canile Andante ... con brio. Teatro del Giglio, 14 Oct. 3pm to 6pm. of Arliano) to help needy dogs.Guided visit to Lucca focusing on the city’s musical tradition: Puccini, Catalani, Gemignani, Boccherini, Chet Baker, & the LucCanina, non-competitive dog marathon from Villa Bottini, WineRolling Stones. €15 (€5 under 14 accompanied by a paying Via Elisa 12. 20 Oct. 3pm to 5pm. €6. Prizes for the first to arrive 21 October Riana (Fosciandora) from 11am

& the most simpatico. www.luccamarathon.it adult). www.turislucca.com

PumpkinsLucca Marathon & 30K. 21 Oct. www.luccamarathon.it First annual Lucca Internet Festival for web influencers, 28 October San Romano in Garfagnana. Fun for kids! Tel. 320

bloggers, etc., with live cooking show. Grand Hotel Guinigi, Via 2469330, www.selvadelbuffardello.itBarga, 14 Oct., Slow-Barga, market of typical products. Romana, 27 Oct. 9am to 7pm. €49. Tel. 0583 1646249 or 347

4480000. www.ecoeventi.comLucca Carta D’Epoca, Engravings/antique books. 20-21 Oct.

Thursday evenings 8.15pm, Grapevine conversation Lucca, Foro Boario, 27-28 Oct. Mercanti per Casa, Flea

group at Des Artes Bistro (Piazza San Giusto). 333 Market. Fun! To request a stand (cost €36), call 333 1606368 or

8617962.visit the site www.mercantipercaso.com

Monday 4pm international conversation group at Osteria Lucca Comics & Games, 31 Oct. to 4 Nov. Throughout the his-San Salvatore on the Lucca Walls near Casa del Boia. toric center. Exhibit stands will be set up beginning 13 Oct. See

article on page 24.Luccalele group, convivial group for ukelele fans. To participate

contact Paolo at 380 4358318 or email [email protected], Alfa Day, car rally. 9 October.www.kursaalcarclub.it/eventi

Pisa Food & Wine Fair at Stazione Leopolda. 19/20/21 October. 5pm to 11pm Friday, 10am to 11pm Sat/Sun. pisafoodwinefestival.it/2018/

Montecarlo Chocolate 20-21 Oct.Carnival in Viareggio, 9/17/23 February & 2/5 March. Satirical

Montecarlo, Montecharloween, 31 Oct. 8pm to midnight. floats, neighborhood parties, & more.Sponsored by Arciconfraternità di Misericordia.

2019 opera season at Torre del Lago: Bello & Buono, fund-raiser La Fanciulla del West 12 & 26 Julyfor Associazione Il Sogno.Turandot 13 & 19 July, 17 August

October Fair (mushrooms, truffles, chestnuts, ...), Castiglione Florence, Odeon Cinema, films in original language. Piazza Bohème 20 July, 3 & 10 AugustGarfagnana. 14 Oct. 9am to 6pm. Strozzi, 2. Tel. 055 214068 www.odeonfirenze.com Madama Butterfly 27 July, 12 & 23 August

October: Aida by Verdi 2 August20-21 Oct., SuperAbile days.1/2/3 L’Amica Geniale (It. version) Manon Lescaut (concert form), 4 August

Celle dei Puccini Autumn Festival, 27 October. 2/3 Michelangelo Infinito (It. version) Tosca 11,18,24 August4/5/6/7 Pope Francis, A Man of His Word Le Villi 16 AugustCamporgiano, Polenta in the tradition. 7 Oct. from 12.30pm. 8/9 Imagine: John and Yoko OnoTel. 329 3248546.10 Illuminazione & Tantrismo (One World University) In its 3rd year, the 2019 Grapevine boat trip to Torre del Lago

Pieve Fosciana, Sapori d’autunno. 21 Oct. 10 Krishnamurti, the Challenge of Change Opera is planned for Aida (2 Aug.) & Turandot (17 Aug.). This 11/12/13/14/17/18/19/21 A Star Is Born year we will reserve seats in the 3rd section, so the all-Chestnuts (La Castagnata)15/16/17 Mirai (It. version) inclusive price is 115 euro per person: a/c coach to & from 7 Oct. Metello, Castelnuovo di Garfagnana, from 3pm15 Mayerling (Royal Opera House) Lucca, boat with local narrator crossing Lago di Massaciuccoli, 7 Oct. Cascio (Molazzana)18 Once Upon a Time in the West buffet dinner with wine on board, opera ticket, and escort with 14 Oct. Trassilico (Gallicano), from 2.30 to 7pm22/23/24 Klimt & Schiele (It. version) information about the opera. Reserve now to have the best 21 Oct,. Careggine, 10am to 6.30pm25/26/27/28/29/30 Bad Times at the El Royal seats possible!27-28 Oct. Castelnuovo di Garfagnana, Loggiata della Porta, 28 Valchiria (Royal Opera House)with music by the church Chorale. From 2.30pm

www.turismo.lucca.it is another source for events & tours.28 Oct. Lago di Pontecosi (Pieve Fosciana), noon to 7pm 29/30 Nureyev, Il Mondo, Il Suo Palco (It. version)

VILLAGE FESTIVALS

(www.turismo.garfagnana.eu)

Castelnuovo Garfagnana 7 Oct.,


NEW: Camaiore cultural exchange: English/Italian speaking.

Meetings, activities & aperitivi. Register on the website

CamaioreCulturalExchange.com

Calci, 3 Nov. 11am to 5.30pm. A trip to visit the Carthusian

monastery near Pisa, lunch in the Valgraziosa hills, harp music.

See article on page 10.

Thanksgiving lunch at Cantina di Carignano in Sant’Alessio

(near Lucca). Thursday 22 November 12.30 to 3pm. See article

on page 25.

DESCO Sapori & Saperi

(Tastes & Talents). Lucca, Real Collegio. 30 November/1,2,7,8,9 December. Displays & tastings of food & drink from the region, conferences, entertainments. Not to be missed.

In early November, Garfagnana Terra Unica, gathering of as-sociations, their products & traditions, held in the Tenso-structure of Castelnuovo.

Botteghe & Dimore, Loggiato di Palazzo Pretorio. Artisans’ Christmas decor on display in December.http://bottegheedimore.wixsite.com/bottegheedimore

ear Friends, summer, at least according

to the calendar, is nearly over. However,

September's temperatures and even Dthose predicted for October seem to

speak another language – not that of autumn, maybe

not even that of summer, rather perhaps that of

springtime. A few days ago I went to inspect a garden,

and I saw a fruit tree in full bloom. At first I said to

myself, Am I dreaming?

I couldn't accept what I saw, and thought that

maybe my trip to reach the garden in question had taken

so long that we were already in springtime, when this

plant should be blooming. While the client was talking,

I continued to be distracted by this gracious tree. It spoke to me with If the mild weather continues, let’s hold off pruning until it’s a

some alarm in its voice, whispering both from embarrassment and bit cooler. Towards the end of the month we can begin to prepare

so as not to be heard by its “owner”. The tree seemed to be asking the flower beds, putting in bulbs that will bloom in the spring. We

me, Simone, what's happening? Shouldn't autumn be arriving? should wait to turn off the automatic watering system until we see

Shouldn't I be losing my leaves and preparing for my winter that the rains are ready to return. For now it's enough to reduce the

dormancy? Why am I all in bloom and full of energy? frequency and duration of the watering cycle. Despite the

During pauses in my conversation with the client, I tried to seasonal ups and downs, the first leaves will soon begin to fall and

respond to the tree, but I couldn't find a way to reassure it. Finally we can enjoy watching them dance under the blue sky. After

I told myself: Why scare it, tell it that everything is okay and that having admired the magnificent scenes that they create on a

this year autumn will probably arrive late (or maybe it won't lovely green lawn, with beautiful chromatic effects, we should

arrive at all). rake up the leaves so that the grass can breathe.

Friends, I think that many of these “strange events” are We continue to cut the grass regularly. By applying a

caused by the environmental contamination of recent decades, fertilizer with magnesium-potassium sulfate, we make the lawn

which has caused and is still causing almost irreversible and more resistant to disease, and more able to survive through

irreparable harm to Nature. All this will have a negative impact, winter.

and rightly so, on us as well. Let's try in our own small way to The current season is also the best time for creating new

show more respect for the environment and for the planet that lawns, so let me remind you of the correct procedure to prepare

kindly hosts us (even if lately we don't seem to deserve it). for new seeding. First, apply a good weed killer to the area of the

Our regional weather center predicts that in early autumn new lawn. Second, after waiting a few days for the weed killer to

temperatures will be slightly above average, with a lower-than- take effect, clean the area well. Third, if you need to run irrigation

average number of rainy days. Let's wait and see, and for now turn or illumination tubes under the ground, now is the time to do so.

to what we need to do in this season. Fourth, cover up the excavations (I recommend placing the pipes

at a depth of at least 35 to 40

cm) and press the soil down

firmly, even though some

settling of the soil will probably

appear over the next few

months. Fifth, turn over the soil

with the appropriate tool and

spread organic fertilizer evenly

over it. Finally, using rakes,

create a level surface, then

distribute the seed evenly and

cover with soil. Considering the

mild weather this year, you

should have excellent results in

just a few days!

Happy gardening to all!

– by Simone Lippi

Il Cerchio Verde

Tel. 0583 316713

Cell. 335 8354437

www.ilcerchioverde.it

Not Yet Autumn?


ctober 1st is now called the 'Day of Older Persons', and of the 27 million people over 80 living in the EU two thirds are women. The number of centenarians has tripled in the Opast 15 years and 83 percent of these are women. In the

tiny village of Acciaroli (Salerno Province) in south-western Italy one in ten of their population of 700 live to be over 100 years old. So what's it all about?

Emma Morano who died in 2017 at the ripe old age of 117. said remaining

Our very own centenarian Teresa (in the single and raw eggs were her secrets. painting by the author, below) was also born Yet others say the diet of rosemary for in 1902. She died in 2002, a few weeks after brain function (see Grapevine the 100th birthday celebrations organised by September 2017 page 21) home-grown the Commune of Barga, to her great vegetables, locally-caught game, olive satisfaction. Little is recorded about her oil and fresh vegetables (see Grapevine childhood, but as one of the first young October 2014 page 19) are the answer, workers at the Metallurgica factory she plus the gioia de vivire that comes from walked to work from Barga to Fornaci each breathing good air and maintaining a day, as did all the other Barghigiani. Some good appetite for sex, among other steep hike! She became a firm friend of ours things. So take your pick. All good, as in her old age, and we watched her stomp up the young say!and down the now sadly overgrown path At the beginning of July 2018 an outside the walls to feed her chickens. item caught my eye in the local paper: What a contrasting picture she was, Giuseppina Projetto (photo below from dressed in her traditional flowery workday Wikipedia), born in 1902, died in coveralls, with her large feet firmly laced Florence when she had reached the up in huge modern trainers. Right up to the grand old age of 116 years and 37 days – last few months of her life, you could see strange how we even count the days at her ploughing her way up and down the the beginning and end of lives, never in steep hills of old Barga, with her bags full the middle. Love and family were her of shopping, a smile on her face and a wry secrets for successfully living life well, comment for everyone she met. Sharp right to the end.mind, high spirits...what an example to us all.

She had, it must be said, scant regard for the 'cultural' events of old Barga. I well recall her and her daughter Giovanna, (pictured above with Andrew, my husband), both of whom had piercingly loud voices, walking through the Piazza and up the steep and long stone steps to the Duomo, chattering away, while we ‘signori’ sat in stunned silence between the movements of some musical offering I can't now recall.... Giovanna was a town character, always loud, glamorous and with a cigarette in her mouth, and the funeral bell tolled for her, solemn and long, on August 18, 2018. From peasant stock and proud of it, Teresa's grand-daughter married into a much grander family that lived on the hill outside the town, but gladly came to visit her grandmother in her declining years in her tumbledown stone house near the church. 'Declining years' – well, she didn't really decline much – or so I recall. On quiet days now I fancy I can still hear her cackling laugh coming from the piazza as she enjoys chiacchierata with the other old women much younger than her, opposite our house. If she had been able to join the conversations about Altri Tempi Anni Fa – and how good that would have been – we would have been reaching way back in the 19th century, bringing back to life some of the old ways of eating and being. What a loss it still seems, but she enriched our own lives by living hers to the fullest, and she made Barga a more sparkling and vivid place.

– by Judith Edwardswww.cansurviving.com

www.judithedwards.co.uk

Altri Tempi, Anni Fa....Teresa & the Long-Lived Women of Italy


Escape to the Coast

few days without guests at Casa Carolina B&B gave us the chance to escape, not to Athe Versilian coast but up to

the Italian Riviera at Lerici. We caught the train to Sarzana and then the bus to San Terenzo. Here we discovered a host of local and British links.

San Terenzo is named after a wealthy Scottish pilgrim who became the local patron saint. It is situated next to Lerici on the Gulf of Poets, so called because of the links with the British Romantic poets. Shelley and his wife lived at the beautiful Villa Magni for a few years and Shelley tragically lost his life in the bay when a storm blew up and his boat went down. Byron also loved the area. Lerici once belonged to Lucca, who sold it to the Genovese in the Middle Ages. nearby, neither place is as touristy as the

Lerici and San Terenzo are two Cinque Terre, but from here you can get a kilometers apart, joined by a walkway boat to all of these popular resorts, as well called the castle-to-castle walk, as it links as to La Spezia and Portofino. Both the castles in Lerici and San Terenzo. The locations have small yacht harbours, castles were built for defense but now which are pretty at sunset.serve as a museum and an events space, Off the main squares in both towns respectively. The walkway is a lovely there are picturesque streets leading up place to do the passeggiata, especially the hills away from the beach. The with coloured flags to guide you and squares themselves are full of restaurants beach bars to stop at along the way. looking out to sea. The houses are multi-

At San Terenzo there is a very coloured and a number of them display shallow beach – much of it free, which is the trompe-l'oeil wall decorations typical ideal for children. There are sandy beaches and rocky beaches in of Liguria. The food is a mixture of Tuscan and Ligurian, so you both Lerici and San Terenzo. Because there is no train station can get excellent meat as well as seafood.

Unfortunately, we were only able to stay one night. So a return to these very Italian seaside resorts is a must.

– by Carol Tomlinson


At this doorway, shaded by an oak treein July 1822,

Mary Godwin & Jame (sic) Williams awaited with tearful anxiety

Percy Bysshe Shelleywho sailed from Livorno on a fragile wooden boat,

who arrived by unlucky destiny at the shore of the isles.

Oh blessed beaches where love, liberty, and dreams

have no chains.

Elysian

PROPERTIES FOR SALE BY OWNER

For more information: [email protected]

Lido di Camaiore

500m from the BEACH

Large home (240 sqm) with garden on 3 sides. 4 bedrooms, 3 baths. Fully equipped kitchen. Wrap-around terrace at 1st floor. Garage. Spacious attic & downstairs rooms. 580,000 euros.(Ref. 1194)

An enchanting 18th century

villa that sleeps 14 (8 bedrooms w i t h A / C , 6 b a t h r o o m s ) , already booked b y s e a s o n a l renters for much of the summer. In its 2 hectares of beautiful gardens & forests you will find a gazebo, green-house, swimming pool, rare plants, even parrots!

3.5 million euros.C o n v e n i e n t l y located in a quiet village just a short bike ride from the s e a , b e t w e e n Lucca and Pisa. Buses pass the gates hourly. . (Ref. 1197)

SAN GINESE (CAPANNORI). Delightful country property that can be used as a farmhouse or renovated into an elegant es-tate. South-facing. Currently 3 bedrooms with study + large at-tic (2 more rooms), bath, country kitchen, living room. Adjacent laundry/workroom with upstairs storage room & additional cantinas. Total 380 sqm. On a hill overlooking the Compitese villages & Lago di Bientina. Approx. 4000 sqm of land (grapes/ olives/forest). Cl. G IPE 255,20. € 430,000. (Ref. 1165)

Excellent opportunity to acquire a lovely home in a select gated

community in Tuscany, 5 minutes away from the walls of Lucca in

beautiful, peaceful, semi-rural surroundings with wonderful views. 15 minutes to Pisa, 25 minutes to the seaside (Forte dei Marmi, Viareggio,

Pietrasanta), 25 minutes to Pisa airport, 35 minutes to Pistoia, 45 minutes to Florence. Summer swimming pool at local tennis club 5 minutes' walk.

The detached 3-storey house can be sold with or without furniture and is composed of: double gated entrance with intercom, security alarm, 3-4 bedrooms, large converted loft space, open lounge/kitchen/diner, covered patio, secluded garden, plenty of storage, garage & laundry room, 3 toilets, 2 bathrooms, 2 showers. Air-conditioning on 1st & 2nd floors, underfloor heating throughout, pellet stove. Space for 2-3 cars in front of the house and 2 car spaces in communal parking area. Satellite dish for international TV.

€350,000 negotiable. For further information please e-mail: [email protected] or [email protected] (Ref. 1209)


Looking for a fun way to learn about Lucca's legends and urban geography? The Lucca Comic Book, Mysteries and Legends, conceived by Rugiada Salom, written by Antonio De Rosa, and illustrated by Riccardo Pieruccini and Pierfrancesco Buonomo, was published last year in its Italian edition and reviewed by Grapevine in November 2017. This year an English edition has been published (translated by Valentina Braccini and Michela Sgammini). The cost is a mere € 6 and the book can be purchased from mariapacinifazzi editore in Via Sant'Andrea 12.

The tale of Lucida Mansi, who made a pact with the Devil, reaches its climax at midnight in 1676 at the Torre delle Ore in Via Fillungo, when the Devil comes for her in his carriage. After a crazed ride on the walls he throws her into the pond at the Botanical Garden, where, some say, she can still be seen on some moonlit nights. A perfect story for Halloween, reminiscent of Oscar Wilde's Dorian Gray. Other legends in this Comic Book are of Ilaria del Carretto, Lucrezia Buonvisi, The Stone of San Michele, Santa Zita, and The Holy Face (Volto Santo).

Illustrations: Riccardo Pieruccini (left), Pierfrancesco Buonomo (right).

The Lucca Comic Book

superb Cantina di Carignano for last year's traditional Thanksgiving Olunch, organized by Grapevine magazine's indefatigable editor Norma Jean, I found myself a thousand miles away walking in a part of London which has deep resonance with the original idea of American Thanksgiving.

Rotherhithe is a former area of docks which has now largely been given over to new housing. Yet the romance and hardship of sea-faring journeys, the close-knit warehouse alleys, and the Thames-side pubs which once served mariners and smugglers still permeate this district. Nowhere is this felt more than in the vicinity of Saint Mary the Virgin's church, in whose graveyard is buried Christopher Jones, the captain of the Mayflower.

This iconic ship gave passage to one hundred and two of the first English Puritans – the pilgrim fathers (and mothers) – in a stormy passage lasting two months to finally land them in the New World by Cape Cod, surviving the most terrible winter with few supplies and insufficient clothing. And it was from where I stood in Rotherhithe that the eighty-foot-long cargo vessel began her epic voyage from the shore of one of the oldest riverside pubs in London, aptly called The Mayflower.

I lingered by the old river and, in Conradian mind, pondered on the history that has flowed down this great waterway. I thought of those latter-day refugees fleeing from religious persecution and realised that Thanksgiving is more than just a harvest festival: it's a thanks-giving for the freedom of thought that so much of the world, despite ever present menaces, is able to enjoy thanks to the courage of so many of our forefathers and our contemporaries.

n the same day that friends and fellow writers met up at Paolo Monti's

Thanksgiving

The Mayflower, signed lithograph

by Montague Dawson (1895-1973)

Join Grapevine friends this year on 22 November for lunch

(12.30 am for a welcoming drink, then lunch from 1 to 3 pm).

The cost is €30. Vegetarian option available.

Why do we celebrate Thanksgiving in Lucca? Those of us who have had the opportunity to move here voluntarily know that freedom is a great gift. While our ancestors may have been pushed out of their home countries, or struggled in the pursuit of religious or economic freedoms, we have the luxury to follow our hearts, even if the economic and practical realities are not always what we may imagine.

So we give thanks for the wonderful friendships we have made, for the beauty of nature and Italian culture, and for the food of course. As the season changes and winter looms ahead, we give thanks for our good fortune in not having to face great suffering and hardship, and we hope to share this in some way with others. Below are some reflections by Grapevine writer Francis Pettitt.

Crema di Zucca alla Mayflower

Pilgrim’s pumpkin ravioli

Baked Sweet Potato with lime Mashed Potatoes and Butternut Squash with sage and butter

Torta di zucca speziata & Pumpkin Tiramisù

Spiced traditional Pumpkin Pie with cranberries and a pumpkin Tiramisu

Stuffed Turkey Roast Tuscan StyleTuscan style turkey roast with pancetta, sausage, lemon & rosemary

(by request, vegetarian alternative: rice with vegetables)

Ravioli di Zucca “Pilgrim”

cripsy prosciuttoa secret pumpkin recipe by the Italian stowaway with sage fried shrimp or

Insalata di frutti di Mare “Nuovo Mondo”

Seafood salad “New World” with shrimp, squid, mussels, peppers and baby corn

Thanksgiving !!!

Aperitif at noon,

(including wine, water, coffee & sparkling moscato wine with dessert)

Lunch at 12.30

to reserve: 333 8617962 or [email protected]

Ask about

ride-sharin

g ...

Alla Cantina di Carignano with Chef Paolo Monti

22ND


historic center for the 52nd time at the end of this month. To give you an idea of T the size of this event, last year 342,000 tickets were sold. In preparation for this year’s events, you will soon see white tents rising in many piazzas and streets. During the festivities, Lucca’s fine restaurants will set up booths in the piazzas, selling panini, hotdogs and hamburgers to feed the youthful invaders.

The best way to enjoy Comics is to roam the streets, where fantasy reigns. Dedicated fans will be eager to buy and sell comic books and illustrations, attend seminars by experts in the sector, watch animations, play video-games and other virtual games, and parade in costumes.... There are special activities for children (born after 1 January 2009), who enter the Festival for free.

For fans of Japanese pop culture, don’t miss Japan Live, open free to the public.The exhibit stands will begin appearing on 13 October; and the Festival itself runs

from 31 October to 4 November. Tickets can be purchased for one or two days or for the entire festival. All the details are on the web-page.

www.luccacomicsandgames.com

Photos from previous Festivals

by Carol Tomlinson

he biggest, boldest Comics and Games festival anywhere will be back in Lucca’s


Lucca Comics!

ENGLISH-SPEAKING PROFESSIONAL SERVICES LESSONS, TRANSLATIONS & COURSES

Private Italian classes Italian woman, speaks fluent English, offers individual/group lessons. Beginners, intermediate, advanced. Help with interpreting and assistance with relocating. Can travel from Lucca. Anna Cell. 347 9194155 [email protected] (Ref. 267)

Translations Italian to English and English to Italian by experienced mother-tongue translators. Contact Grapevine (Ref. 817)Spoken English private lessons. Contact Grapevine. (Ref. 1186)

Accountants Vannucci & Associates. Viale San Concordio 710, 55100 Lucca. Tel. +39 Martina, bilingual student saving up to attend university, seeks 0583 316636, fax: +39 0583 419451, email employment, part-time or full, babysitter or other. 334 3105182 or [email protected] - www.vannuccieassociati.it (Ref. 1103) [email protected] (Ref. 1216)Accountant Paola Girolami (Universities of Pisa and Bristol). Via Delle

Aurora, bilingual graduate with Laurea in tourism, seeks employment, Ville 354/A, Lucca. Tel 0583 471734, fax 0583 952349.possibly in a restaurant or hotel. Long experience as babysitter & pre-Dental Surgeon Dr. Barbato & Dr. Cumbo. Via Fillungo 91, 55100 Lucca.

Tel. 0583 492853. school teacher. [email protected] (Ref. 1217)Dental Surgeon Dr. Carlo G.F. Martini – Studio Odontostomatologico Martini – Via Romana 231, 55100 Lucca. Tel 0583 467975, email: [email protected] Surgeon Dr. Rogier Staal (University of Amsterdam). Via Farnesi 25a, Lucca. Tel. and fax 0583 953633. Dutch/English/Italian/French/ German. [email protected] Daria Mariani (English spoken). Real estate, contracts, inheritance, accident, family, commercial, auctions, etc. Tel. 0583 316110, cell. 340 8672443, [email protected] (Ref. 1191)Lawyer Alberto Del Carlo. Admitted to the Italian High Courts, Piazzale

For Sale: (1) KUVINGS Estrattore / Whole Slow Juicer B6000, in Ricasoli, 241 – 55100 Lucca. Tel. 0583 494952, fax 0583 492352. email original box, manuals in Italian/English, 220-240V, 10 year guarantee. (2) [email protected] In the real estate field, Mr. Del Carlo is in strict Tastiera / Keyboard YAMAHA PSR-433 + FC5A pedal + PROEL-EL250 connection with surveyors (geometri) who speak English fluently.Keyboard support. All items in excellent condition. Call Chris 340 10 Lawyer Ilaria Cipriani (Anglo/Italian). Via Nottolini 733, 55100 Lucca. 99449. (Ref. 1215)Tel. 0583 1892444, fax 0583 1770173. [email protected]

Lawyer Enrico Lattanzi. Viale Giacomo Puccini n°75, Lucca. Tel. (+39) Wanted, English speaker to play with & read to a 4-year-old Italian child

0583 584981, fax (+39) 0583 316172, cell. (+39) 347 4479061. in a home at Massa Macinaia (accessible by car or bike, 15 minutes outside [email protected], www.lawfirminitaly.com (Ref. 1204) of town). Tel. Elisa at 3282660846, or email [email protected] design & Garden maintenance. Call Tommaso at cell. 349 284 5399 or email [email protected] www.luccalandscape.it (Ref. 572) UK TV in Italy, all UK channels from £11.99 a month. 14 day catch-up. Let Removals Local, National, European and International relocation service. us show you how! Contact Grapevine for referral. (Ref 1142)Servicing the UK with regular trips every 2-3 weeks. Full professional packing & export wrapping service. Friendly, experienced, professional Kiwi service. Contact Richard at [email protected] or 340 8748222. (Ref. 771)

Bilingual American student with tutoring/teaching experience, attending Univ. of Pisa, living in Lucca, available for English language, math and science tutoring or homework assistance. Tel. 324.796.7323 or email [email protected]. (Ref. 1214)

JOB SEARCH

VARIOUS

Moving Sale Lucca Whole house contents of quality for sale including antiques, wardrobes, furniture, mirrors, paintings, etc. Please email [email protected] for list. (Ref 1083)

U.S. TAX RETURNS FOR AMERICANS IN ITALY

Alexander v.Pinoci

PAAL SERVICES USA, LLC (UStaxItaly)

email: [email protected] pec: [email protected]

Website: http://www.ustaxitaly.com/

Michigan USA tel: +1-808-316-0719

Rome ITALY tel: +39-06.9294.7508

cell: +39-328.162.0531 fax: +39-06.233.241.949

Grapevine cannot evaluate all the advertisements and assumes no responsibility for their content.


Design and installation gardens terraces and watering systems

Garden maintenanceTypical Tuscan gardens

tel 0583 316713Simone 335 [email protected]

www.ilcerchioverde.it

Il Cerchio Verde

335 6777833

via De Gasperi n° 279 • 55100 Lucca

[email protected] • www.ri-struttura.it

195cm

x 1

24cm

x 5

3cm

Near Devil's Bridge (Borgo a Mozzano). Country estate. Large kitchen/dining room, pantry, 2 sitting rooms, fireplace, study/office, 2 bedrooms, 2 baths downstairs. 3 bedrooms, 3 baths upstairs. Large swimming pool. English garden. 1.5 hectares for strolling through mead-ows & forest. Wheelchair access & large park-ing area. Photovoltaic & solar systems. € 695,000. By owner. Contact Grapevine for confidential transactions. (Ref. 1147)

Please use the form on our webpage or send us an email at:

[email protected]

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www.luccagrapevine.com

In the Compitese hills near Lucca, semi-detached house from 1733. P1: dining, living, kitchen, large bath, P2: 3 bedrooms, attic. Courtyard with cantina & pizza-oven. Solar panels. Land (pool possible) nearby but not adjacent. Possibility of 2nd bathroom. €130,000. Tel. 349 7146953 (Ref. 1205)

Country house 8 km west of Lucca in a small hamlet overlooking the valley. Restored while respecting the original style. Large rooms on 3 levels: PT living room with fireplace, spacious kitchen, bedroom, bath. P1 2 bedrooms & bath. P2 spacious loft with beautiful views in all directions. Garden & pleasant terrace for outdoor dining. €320,000. Contact Grapevine. (Ref. 1201)

Albiano (near Barga). Independent apartment (approx. 150sqm) with panoramic garden & terrace (50sqm, On two floors: entrance hall, living room, dining room, kitchen/dining room on ground floor. 3 bedrooms on 1st floor. Bathroom with bathtub. Oil fired central heating (boiler installed in 2014). Double glazed windows with aluminum shutters. Energy Rating: G. Bus stop @ 40mt, train station @ 5 km, post office @ 4.5 km, news agent @ 4.5 km, café/restaurant @ 50mt. Price € 165,000. Tel. 348 6559698. (Ref. 1188)

In the heart of Lucca, near Via Fillungo & Torre delle Ore. Beautiful, luminous 3rd floor apartment. 220 sqm. Large entrance hall, 4 bed-rooms, 2 baths, spacious kitchen from the 1500s, enormous living room, loft area with 2 rooms & laun-dry. Ceilings up to 4 meters high, floors in terracotta & tessieri, wood beam ceilings, wood panelled living room ceiling. € 800,000. (Ref 1184)

Lucca a or sale partment f

San Marco area, 5 minutes from the wall (Porta S. Jacopo) on 3rd floor, consisting of 3 rooms, new kitchen, bathroom, 2 balconies, pellets oven , fully furnished, cellar/storeroom, garage. price € 125,[email protected] (Ref 1216)

House renovated into 3 separate apartments in traditional style for a total of 210sqm. With forest land, garden, above-ground pool. Ideal for bed & breakfast. Contact Grapevine. (Ref. 1200)

Fabbriche

di Casabasciana

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TUSCANY’S October 2018 GGRRAAPPEEVVIINNEEContents Tuscany’s EG RAPEVIN Magazine October 2018 3...

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