Trip Report - The Overland Forum · Trip Synopsis The trip plan was originally conceived by Peter...

Trip Report

Western Botswana and Northern Namibia

2 – 27 April 2010

Visiting

Ghanzi, Lake Ngami, Drotsky’s Caves, Khaudum GR, Grootfontein, Lake Otjikoto, Ruacana Falls, Kunene River Lodge, Epupa Falls, Van Zyls Pass, Marienfluss, Hartmann’s Valley, Khumib River,

Hoarusib River, Sesfontein, Khorixas, Twyfelfontein, Brandberg, Ugab River, Henties Bay, Swakopmund, Walvis Bay.

Compiled by

Peter Tiedt

Botswana/Namibia 2010 Peter Tiedt 1 of 45

Travelling Group Peter Tiedt (2002 Land Rover Defender 110 CSW) John, Marilyn and Ian Wells (2008 Toyota Land Cruiser 70) Richard and Emily von Berg, Lothar Wortmann (1998 Land Rover Defender 110 CSW) Glenn and Gail Jones (Land Rover Discovery 1) Bill and Lisa van Dongen (after week 1, as passengers in the Cruiser)

Back (L-R) Glenn Jones, Richard Von Berg, Ian Wells, John Wells, Peter Tiedt, Lothar Wortmann, Bill Van Dongen.

Front (L-R) Marilyn Wells, Gail Jones, Lisa Van Dongen, Emily Von Berg

Trip Synopsis The trip plan was originally conceived by Peter and was based on reports from friends, other Trip Reports on the Overland Forum, and advice from previous travelers. The basic plan was to take in the 'eyes' of Northern Namibia, and due to the distance from KZN, to try and do it in one longish trip. Previous travelers had indicated that the trip should not be rushed, so three weeks was set aside for the trip. This was later extended to 26 days to include two chill days at Swakopmund before starting the long haul back to Durban. Some en-route chill days (or very low km days) were also factored in to ease the strain of continuous daily travel. While in the area we decided to take in Lake Ngami, Drotsky's Caves and the Khaudum Game Reserve, leaving Tsodilo Hills for another visit. In the end, the basic planned route was followed, but some sections had to be skipped due to adverse river conditions (Hoarusib riverbed, Hoanib / Amspoort, Kunene from Swartbooisdrift to Epupa) and these were substituted with a two day trip down the Ugab River from Botswana/Namibia 2010 Peter Tiedt 2 of 45

Brandberg to the Skeleton Coast Park boundary. In the end, this riverbed drive turned into a trip highlight. Van Zyl's Pass was everything we expected. The Marienfluss was wonderfully green with waving grass, and the contrast between the eastern and western sides of Hartmann's Valley was breathtaking. The stony gravel plains between the Khumib and Hoarusib also provided a further striking contrast in this land of wonderful vistas. Khaudum was wonderful for its solitude, but very few animals were sighted. The sand track leaving Khaudum to the north was at its vicious best. The White Lady of the Brandberg was a little disappointing - a long footslog up the river valley, only to be greeted by a faded small painting under an overhang - in some ways a bit like seeing the Mona Lisa for the first time and being confronted by the small painting. The Twyfelfontein rock engravings were very interesting, as was the Petrified Forest in the area. But watch out for community run 'petrified forests' which are mostly a total rip-off (we were nearly caught). The sight of Ruacana Falls and Epupa falls in full flood was another trip highlight, and the highly creative names of the Cuca shops in Ovamboland brought on many chuckles in the vehicles. Drotsky's Caves were visited, quite a few geocaches were located and one was placed at the top end of Hartmann’s valley. An attempt at Confluence Point S20 E22 was unsuccessful due to overgrown tracks, but the Confluence Point at S20 E21 on the Namibia / Botswana border was successful. The trip section from Ruacana to Kunene River Lodge turned into a five-hour (some after dark) adventure because of flooded sections of the river road, and we had to enquire of the detours from the local Himba people. Also the trip from Sesfontein to Twyfelfontein was only completed after dark because of an unplanned shopping detour to Khorixas. Otherwise the 4-finger rule was followed (if we were not very close to camp, and the sun was less than four fingers above the horizon, we stopped and bush-camped). The planned bush camp at Lake Ngami was avoided because of excessive local presence, lots of mud and squadrons of mozzies. But the birding was excellent! The vehicles all performed well, with minor problems only - a shredded tyre between Rooidrom and Bloudrom (Td5), worn universal joint (Tdi), and suspension bushes on the Discovery. Quite a few new tracks were recorded for T4A, and numerous extra POIs identified and marked.


Highlights Water in Lake Ngami Drotsky's Caves Geocaching and Confluence Hunting Solitude in Khaudum Ruacana and Epupa Falls in flood Kunene River Lodge Van Zyls Pass Marienfluss with Oryx and Springbok Hartmann's Valley, especially the northern and western sections. The repainting of Rooidrom. Khumib and Ugab Rivers Purros Community Camp Wonderfully contrasting landscapes almost everywhere. Fishy Corner in Henties Bay for their mussel soup and grilled kabeljou. Kucki's Pub in Swakopmund Last but not least - a well-knit bunch of fellow travelers who all pulled together, especially in the tough sections. Lowlights No desert elephants seen Very little game in Khaudum Ongongo Camp Begging Himbas Getting Home :-) Pre planning After the initial route concept, an article asking for travel buddy interest in the magazine of the KZN LROC elicited responses from Glenn and Richard. A later meeting at a Kingsley Holgate book launch in Ballito brought John into the group, and Lothar Wortmann, Bill van Dongen and Lisa joined in later. A number of 'pub planning sessions' were arranged to knock things into shape, then a series of braais at various member's homes nailed down the final planning, and who would carry what equipment - we didn't need four first aid kits, eight tow ropes, four shower cubicles, umpteen gas bottles etc. The final planned route was as follows: (BC = Bush camp) Durban - Kanye - Lake Ngami (BC) - Drotsky’s Caves - Sikereti - Khaudum - Sikereti - Grootfontein - Ruacana - Epupa Road (BC) - Epupa falls (2 nights) - Otjihende - Camp Syncro (2 nights) - Hartmann's valley (BC) - Khumib River (BC) - Purros - Twyfelfontein - Brandberg (2 nights) - Soutgat / Henties Bay - Swakopmund - Gobabis - Kanye - Durban. As will be seen in the detailed report which follows, this was largely followed. Departure was scheduled from the BP Oasis near Inchanga at 04h00 on 2 April, with return to Durban being planned for the evening of 27 April.


Daily Reports Day 1, Friday 2 April, Durban to Kanye All tar, 947 km As planned, we met at 04h00 and after a quick cup of coffee set off. A refuel stop was made at the truck stop in Harrismith (price saving) and breakfast was taken at the Bethlehem one-stop. Then we went on to Kroonstad via Steynsrus (R76) and on to Klerksdorp via Viljoenskroon and Orkney. The section from Bethlehem to Steynsrus must be one of the worst tar roads in the country – or should I say potholes with occasional tar. From Klerksdorp we went to Lichtenburg via Hartbeesfontein and Coligny on the R503. From Lichtenburg we routed via Mafikeng to Ramatlabana, where we entered Botswana. After clearing border facilities, we went on to Kanye and Motse Lodge via the A1 and A2. Motse Lodge has reasonable camping facilities behind the hotel. Some noise was evident from locals enjoying drinks in the hotel, but it was not too annoying. Supper was pre-cooked chicken and prawn curry.

The group of 9, just before departure from

Cato Ridge on 2 April 2010.

First night campsite at Motse Lodge, Kanye.

Day 2, Saturday 3 April, Kanye to Ghanzi All tar, 602 Km Day 2 started with a refuel at Kanye, then onto the Trans Kalahari Highway routing via Jwaneng and Kang where we had a breather. Virtually the entire verges of the TKH were covered with literally millions of bright yellow flowers - an amazing sight. We went on towards Ghanzi, finding a geocache along the way and then visited Ghanzi Trail Blazers, (where the cache was missing). We decided to stop over here for the night. Ghanzi Trail Blazers is a very comfortable community-run camp with three campsites and good reed ablutions with flushing facilities.


Bright yellow flowers lined almost the entire length of the Trans Kalahari Highway. Wood was expensive but we negotiated a better price. Supper was lamb stew, also precooked.

Roof top tent all set up at Ghanzi Trail

Blazers.

Campfire at Ghanzi Trail Blazers.


Day 3, Sunday 4th April, Ghanzi Trail Blazers to Caves Road bush camp Tar and Gravel, 345 Km The Easter Bunny paid a visit in the early hours and left Easter eggs at the doorway of each tent. From Ghanzi Trail Blazers we provisioned in Ghanzi town (at the Spar) and refueled. We then headed for Lake Ngami, finding a geocache at D'Kar along the way. We tried to find the track to Masalanyane Pan en-route to Lake Ngami, but this track was overgrown and impassable. At Lake Ngami we took the road that crossed the pan but saw no water at all, just locals and plenty of their cattle. After crossing the pan we met some locals and were advised to look further east for the water, so went off in that direction, eventually negotiating some very sticky patches until we reached the lake shore. Birding was excellent, but field conditions not good with plenty mosquitoes and other bugs, as well as decidedly muddy conditions, so we agreed to press on northwards and bush camp along the road to Drotsky's Caves, possibly finding confluence point S20 E22 along the way. We refueled at Sehitwa and headed onto the Caves road. After taking the junction at S20.10408 E22.10192 we found the track to be totally overgrown and trashed by animals (ellies?). So we abandoned the idea of doing this confluence point, backtracked towards the junction and bush camped close by at S20.10089 E22.09754. Supper was German sausages with sauerkraut, mustard and foiled potatoes.

Lake Ngami – water for the first time in 20+ years. Magnificent birding. Botswana/Namibia 2010 Peter Tiedt 7 of 45

Antbear Camp on the Caves road.

Evening campfire at the Caves Road Bushcamp. Day 4, Monday 5th April, Caves Rd to Namibia/Botswana Border Bush camp 185 km, all dirt. We made an early start and headed off towards the Caves, which were reached without incident. But not without passing through many muddy patches. It appears that the Botswana authorities are building facilities at the caves as there was an entrance gate, with toilets - under construction, but almost complete. The existing track bypassed this and there was no one on duty so we went on to the caves.


A wonderful vista of Botswana, near Drotsky’s caves. After inspecting the two campsites, one was occupied by a large group, and the other was pretty barren and uninteresting so we decided to do the caves visit and then head for XaiXai near the Botswana / Namibia border, visiting the confluence at S20 E21 at the same time. The caves were duly visited, but no one spent too much time there. They are interesting, but not enthralling. The best feature of the caves is that they are still largely untouched (read unmessed) by vandals.


Amazing stalactites and stalagmites in Drotsky’s Caves.

Off we went again, and made enquiries at the XaiXai police post about the track to the border (not on T4A) which I had seen on Google Earth. The cops were helpful and pointed us in the right direction - so we headed down a very pleasant track to the border fence. At the border we found (also seen on GE) a North / South track running along the fence. We turned southwards and eventually stopped near the CP, getting out and locating and documenting the exact position of S20 E21. Success!! The confluence was very easy to locate, being only about 200m on the Botswana side of the border track. Then it was time to head for the Dobe border post, along the border track. The track went right through the Aha hills, making detours around the hills when they got in the way. We bush camped just after one of these detours, right against the border fence and decided to braai after collecting wood, which was plentiful in the area.


More of the formations in the caves.

GPS at S20.00000 E21.00000

Day 5, Tuesday 6th April, Namibia / Botswana Border to Sikereti 151 km, all dirt Another early-ish start (not too early as we were close to the border post) saw us completing the north-bound track to the border (new T4A recording) and checking out of Botswana and into Namibia. Of course as we got into Namibia it was a case of making sure we had no meat in the fridges. Of course we didn't. The Namibian vet guys made sure they thoroughly sprayed the wheels of the vehicles, but weren't too concerned about the underside of the vehicles, or the mud. Makes one wonder just what they hope to achieve. The border facilities were completed relatively quickly.

Striking camp on the Botswana / Namibia

border.

The track from Aha Hills to Dobe BP.

A note on this border post - you cannot buy the Namibian road tax here as the border post is designated as a local crossing point and there is no customs facility. We were advised to buy the road tax permit on exit. In any event, the only time we were Botswana/Namibia 2010 Peter Tiedt 11 of 45

asked for the tax permit was at a police check near Walvis Bay, when we passed on the advice we were given at Dobe. And were waved on.

Dobe Border Post.

The track from Tsumkwe to Khaudum GR.

We went on to Tsumkwe, where we found the filling station had plenty of fuel, so those who needed fuel filled up. We also laid in a few supplies at the first shop we had seen since Sehitwa on Day 3. We also bought our first (of many)Tafel Lagers!!! The road to Khaudum Game Reserve and Sikereti was then taken, stopping for lunch at the Dorslandboom. This must have been a magnificent (and gigantic) baobab when it was still standing.

Panoramic shot of the Dorslandboom.

Later in the afternoon we arrived at Sikereti (and because we were a day behind plan at this stage), decided to cut our Khaudum visit to two nights, one each at Sikereti and Khaudum, then to exit via the northern sand track and get to Grootfontein via Rundu.


Sikereti Office – Khaudum Game Reserve

Campsite #1 - Sikereti

The facilities at Sikereti are very run down, but the thatch shelters are still functional. If there is water, then the toilets work. Showers are cold. We rigged our own facilities (used their shower enclosure and Richard's Alva shower system). Day 6, Wednesday 7th April, Sikereti Camp to Khaudum Camp 106 km, all dirt We planned a route taking in Leeupan to get to Khaudum. Not much game, but plenty of standing water. There was plenty of greenery, but very few animals. We stopped at Leeupan for lunch, and went on to Khaudum where we took the river view campsite.

Monster Shongololo at Khaudum camp.

My wood carrier net in action, near Khaudum. The tap was supplied by the game scouts (screw the fitting into a valve situated below ground). This is to deter the ellies from ripping everything up to get to the water.


Khaudum Riverview camp.

Khaudum sunset..

We enjoyed a pleasant evening around the campfire with the last of our meat before restocking in Grootfontein the next day. Once again we rigged Richard's shower facility. Day 7, Thursday 8th April, Khaudum to Grootfontein 489 km (about 60 km sand, balance tar) Instead of taking the Sikereti / Tsumkwe / Grootfontein road we decided to brave the 55km of thick sand to the Caprivi highway and reach Grootfontein via Rundu as there was more tar on this route and it would probably be quicker. The sand road was extremely tough going, but once tyres were deflated to 1.3 bars the going became much easier. Part of the tough going was a NWR truck which kept ahead of us (and which had a wider track) which really messed the ruts for the following narrower track vehicles.

The infamous northern sand track from Khaudum to

the Rundu road.

Mobile butchery in Rundu. Not for me ☺

Once we hit the tar it was a short hop to Rundu (after re-inflating tyres) where we refueled and bought pay as you go cards for the cell phones. From Rundu we headed for Grootfontein, driving through a heavy thunderstorm just before reaching the town. There we hit the Spar, butcher and bottle store in quick succession, restocking for the northern Namibia leg of the trip. By now we had been on the road for a week and were looking forward to a good shower in the municipal campsite.


But first we decided to take in the Hoba Meteorite. After visiting the meteorite (an impressive chunk of mostly iron and nickel) we celebrated my birthday with champagne brought all the way from Durban. Then we went to check in at the campsite and scrub up before a good birthday meal at the Meteor Restaurant (accompanied by many Jagermeisters).

The Hoba Meteorite near Grootfontein.

Day 8, Friday 9th April, Grootfontein to Kunene River Lodge 601 km (about 45 km dirt, balance tar) Leaving Grootfontein, we passed the Tsumeb turnoff, and stopped for a while at Lake Otjikoto where the Germans dumped all their artillery and arms prior to their surrender to the South Africans in 1915. After visiting the lake (which has impressive displays of bushman poison plants, fossils, animal sculptures and wildlife murals) we headed towards the Rooilyn vet gate and then through Ovamboland, chuckling at the creative and funny names of the Cuca shops which virtually lined the road.


Views of lake Otjikoto.

At Ondangwa we stopped at the airport to pick up Bill and Lisa van Dongen who had flown in that morning. We were now 11 and the travelling group was complete. Lunch was taken next to the road just outside Ondangwa and we pressed on to Ruacana where serious refueling took place, including jerry cans and rooftop tanks. This was to be our last fuel stop before Sesfontein or Palmwag, 1000+ km and 10 days away.

A very wet Ovamboland.

Four heavily laden vehicles left Ruacana filling station and descended the escarpment to the Kunene River. As we descended, we saw the spray from the Ruacana Falls. A very worthwhile stop was made to admire and photograph the falls which were in full flood. These falls are usually empty because the power station uses all the river flow, so we were really lucky to see this sight! From Ruacana Falls we had the option of stopping off at Hippo Pools Community camp, or heading for the more upmarket Kunene River Lodge, a further 43 short km down the road. We decided to go for Kunene River Lodge, but after the point of no return realised that we had made a big mistake!


Ruacana Falls in full flood. Because of the high levels of the river, many parts of the road were flooded and more than a meter under water for stretches of many hundreds of meters. Previous travelers had forced detours through the bush, but these were not always obvious (nor were they on T4A). This meant stop, decide if the flooded section was fordable by walking it, and if not, looking for a detour. Fortunately, in many places the local Himba pointed out the detours to us and this made going easier. In one place Himba kids ran with the vehicles to direct us to the detour, earning themselves a few N$ as a reward. Night fell and we were still about 25 km from KRL, but the decision was made to push through rather than bush camp (too many Himbas around).

Flooded Kunene River road.


I got stuck when the vehicle dug up a boulder and balanced on it. Fortunately a quick tug and hi-lift jack sorted that out. Then I got stuck in some mud trying to find a detour and again the tow strap had to come out. Later the Discovery needed a pull up a particularly steep section. In the end, we all got through and eventually pulled into Kunene River Lodge at about 21h30, muddy, hungry and tired.

Recovering a bogged Land Rover.

Struggling through one of the many detours A chill day was summarily declared for the next day which pleased the ladies no end as the laundry was piling up! Everyone slept well that night!! Day 9, Saturday 10th April, Kunene River Lodge 0 km The day was spent doing laundry, chilling on the deck with very cold Tafels and watching the level of the Kunene slowly rising towards the deck. Local knowledge advised us that the 10 hour trip to Epupa falls was taking 19 hours and more. Judging from the previous night, we fully believed this and were really not into 19+ hours of looking for detours and wading flooded sections of road. So the decision was made to take the C routes to Epupa falls after visiting the Dorslandtrek Memorial. A good braai was held that evening and a well rested group prepared for the quickish trip to Epupa falls.

Just the place to spend a kuk day in Africa!


Kunene River Sunset Day 10, Sunday 11th April, Kunene River Lodge to Epupa Falls 174 km, all dirt Because of the relatively short drive along good roads, we were not in a tearing hurry the next morning. After leaving KRL we headed to Swartbooisdrift, had a look at the Dorlandtrek memorial, then the sodalite quarry on the hill nearby, collecting a few specimens of the blue coloured rocks. The Zebra Mountains were looking good with the sun in the east. After turning onto the C43 we collected some wood for the evening campfire and went on to Epupa. Just before reaching the campsite we drove to the top of the hill overlooking the falls and stood in awe at the volume of water pouring over the falls. T4A indicated that there is an N$10 fee for driving to the top of the hill, but as no one was around we did not pay. As we were about to leave a local arrived and demanded payment, but we refused as no facilities were provided (apart from a run-down shelter). A note on this - I support community initiatives 100%. But I do not support blatant milking of tourists. If facilities and services are provided by the community, and they are value for money, I will gladly shell out the bucks. But if someone comes up to me with a grubby unofficial looking clipboard and says I must pay for looking at a waterfall, and has not provided any facilities (such as seating, toilets, nice shelter, perhaps a kiosk selling cold drinks) then I will not pay. That is a tourist rip-off. End of rant.


We then checked in to the Epupa Falls Community Camp and spent a lazy afternoon either on the deck overlooking the falls, or just lazing around the campsite. Some went off to find a geocache and others visited the community craft market. Decided to head off towards Van Zyls the next day and take the rest day somewhere else.

Epupa Falls in flood.

Epupa Falls

Epupa Falls Campfire.

The continual noise from the river tumbling over the falls was quite something!!` Day 11, Monday 12th April, Epupa Falls to Van Zyls Pass Community Camp 151 km, all dirt


The going was easy until Okangwati where we did a bit of shopping for cool drinks and snacks, then the track to Van Zyls started, with the incongruous 80 km/h speed limit sign for the D3703. No serious problems along the road, although we all needed guiding along some of the difficult sections.

Zebra Mountains

Wood Carrier Net being put to use.

We reached the Otjihende Community campsite early in the afternoon and were glad we had decided to break here. Anyone who does the Epupa Falls to Marienfluss trip in one day has got to be completely mad. Van Zyls is best done in the morning with the sun behind you. This community camp is well worth the N$60 charge with very good facilities for a community camp. Nice spacious showers with hot water, and flush toilets, plus wash up facilities on good working areas.

The road to VanZyl’s pass


Here I had to change the right rear tyre because of a leaking valve stem, which pulled out when I tried to re-inflate. Net result, one perfectly good tyre, with a very nice valve housing, but no insert. On with spare #1.

The road to Van Zyl’s pass


Day 12, Tuesday 13th April, Van Zyls Pass Community Camp to Camp Syncro 74 km, all dirt

The Marienfluss valley from the Van Zyl’s Pass Viewpoint Van Zyls Pass was everything we expected. Mostly easy(-ish) stuff, but the three or four sections where guiding is necessary are really tricky (probably Grade 3 to 3.5), and would be almost impossible without someone telling you where your wheels are and should be going. Ian Wells did an admirable job of directing everyone down while Marilyn shot the footage for posterity. The compulsory stop was made at the bottom and our stone was placed with all the others. Then a lunch break before heading through the green grass-covered Marienfluss with its fairy circles, springbok and gemsbok. This was truly a magic and memorable drive (but we didn't know what was still coming).

More Marienfluss Views


Descending Van Zyl’s pass

We booked into Camp Syncro, and were hardly settled when we asked to move to higher ground outside the camp as there was a report that additional sluices had been opened at Ruacana Dam and the river was expected to flood the camp. Earlier we had stuck thorns into a fever tree to act as markers for the flood waters, and sure enough, the water was rising, albeit slowly. So we scampered for high ground about 2km from the camp and set up a bush camp (fortunately we had showered and eaten, so it was straight to bed).

Our stone at the bottom of Van Zyl’s Pass (Limestone from the Port Shepstone area) and the happy

group celebrating.


Camp Syncro, and the emergency bushcamp to keep clear of the rising Kunene River. Day 13, Wednesday 14th April, Camp Syncro to Bush camp Hartmann’s Valley 165 km, all dirt In the morning, we broke camp and headed back to Syncro to pay and have a shower - of course the campsite was bone dry and what we had seen the previous evening was the peak of the flood. Oh well, safer was better. So we showered and set off down the eastern side of the Marienfluss towards Rooidrom. This side was even prettier than the western side and we saw many herds of springbok.

More Marienfluss views, this time on the western side of Mt Ondau. Reaching Rooidrom, we got out the red paint and proceeded with the promised re-painting of this famous Kaokoland landmark. Marilyn had agreed to paint the co-ordinates on the drum and this was duly done - in the late Jan Joubert's preferred format of degrees minutes and seconds as a form of honour to his memory.


Rooidrom with a new coat of paint.

One x shredded BFG T/A tyre. 80% tread left.

After Rooidrom we went towards Bloudrom and Oranjedrom to turn up the Hartmann's Valley. On the section from Rooidrom to Bloudrom, I shredded the right rear tyre, which fortunately did not deflate. On with spare #2. That was me out of tyres until repairs could be made. After reaching Bloudrom and Oranjedrom (with the compulsory photo moments) we headed north towards the top of Hartmann’s Valley. The first long section of this road was extremely corrugated and stony and we were relieved to reach the dune section in the north where the going was much easier.

Our Rooidrom stone..

Mascots at Bloudrom Prior to leaving, we had obtained three possible bush camp sites from members of the Overland Forum and had decided on the view over the canyon. On reaching this point we were all blown away by the view and decided to bush camp right there so that we could watch the sunrise the next morning. Soon after setting up camp a desert thunderstorm arrived. We were so hot that we all stood in the rain and had free showers. Some of the guys decided to wash their hair, which of course caused the rain to stop as soon as they had lathered up.


Thunderstorms in Hartmann’s Valley

Very nice composition by Janputte.

The absolutely incredible view at the top of Hartmann’s Valley. Mindblowing!


Day 14, Thursday 15th April, Hartmann’s Valley to Khumib River Bush Camp 174 km, all dirt In the morning we explored the beautiful grass-covered dunes of the northern Hartmann's valley before setting off for Groendrom and the Khumib River. A few Skeleton Coast Safari vehicles were seen, who were all friendly. But we stayed away from the roads close to their concession.

Sunrise over the Hartmann’s Valley Bushcamp

Hartmann’s Valley dunes. Deciding on the western road down the valley we were confronted by vista after vista of beautiful arid landscapes. In some places the barchan dunes are advancing westwards and have covered the existing tracks. This must be one of the most beautiful areas of Namibia. In addition, the road to Groendrom is in much better condition than the road to Oranjedrom, so I would recommend that all travelers rather use this road into and out of Hartmann's Valley.

Hartmann’s Valley must be one of the most beautiful places on the planet!

After reaching Groendrom and the compulsory Kodak moment, we headed off across the gravel / stony plains towards Orupembe and the Khumib River. Some vehicles were running low on water, and everyone was low on beer so at Orupembe we filled up with water from the very friendly Namibian Police Station and filled up with Tafel


and Windhoek from the Orupembe Shop #1. I think we cleaned them out of Tafels and Windhoek, so the locals coming along to buy their beer might just have been disappointed at the zero stock levels after we had departed.

Looking south in the western Hartmann’s Valley

Beautiful Desolation and barchan dunes. From Orupembe we entered the Khumib riverbed and enjoyed the drive to the bush camp spot recommended by Francois Visagie (S18.22006 E12.61432). A good campfire and braai celebrated the end of the northern valleys and the start of the river trails.

Travelling south along the Khumib just after Orupembe.

Bushcamp along the Khumib River.

Day 15, Friday 16th April, Khumib River to Purros 83 km, all dirt After clearing the bush camp area of all signs of our passing, we carried on down the Khumib, but no elephants were to be seen, not even fresh droppings. We exited the river at the Hoarusib transit road towards Purros, passing through incredibly desolate, yet hauntingly beautiful landscapes. The degree of mineralisation in the rocks in this part of Namibia is incredible, as are the mudstone formations.


Reaching the Hoarusib, we found it to be flowing quite strongly and the T4A crossing point was washed away and impassable. While some of the group parked off for a bite to eat, others went off to find a new crossing point.

Cruising down the river, on a Friday morning.

The gravel plains between the Khumib and the Hoarusib Rivers.

Panoramic view from the gravel plain. It was obvious that the riverbed trail was out of the question and that we would have to follow the trail along the bank. The explorers returned, having found a suitable (but tricky) crossing. Bad news was that Purros Community Camp was on the right bank of the Hoarusib (and we were on that bank) so that crossing the river to the left bank meant that we would have to cross again to reach Purros. Oh well. This is what makes trips interesting....

Uncrossable Hoarusib.

Hoarusib lunch stop. The crossing was successful with slightly deflated tyres. We then set off on an uneventful drive alongside the river and crossed again easily about six or seven km before Purros. Botswana/Namibia 2010 Peter Tiedt 30 of 45

At Purros we were given Campsite 3 as we were a big group (11). We were very happy with the ablutions being secluded in a copse of trees, and with the other facilities at each spacious campsite.

Crossing the Hoarusib River, a bit further upstream

The second crossing of the Hoarusib River, near Purros.

We immediately booked a game scout for a guided trail the next day, and also recruited the wife of one of the game guards to do some laundry. Day 16, Saturday 17th April, Purros 43 km, all dirt The game scout pitched up on time, and advised that there were elephants and lions in the river(s). But he was not sure where they were. Great.

The community campsite at Purros (Campsite #3)

Hoarusib River (Jan Joubert koppie on the left). But if we took him to the Skeleton Coast Tented Safaris camp just down the road, he would ask his brother. So, we went there. After some rapid Herero speak, off we went, back to the river crossing about 6 km north of camp. Nope, no tracks, the lions must be lying up in the bush. "Let's go look for elephants - I heard that they are in


the Gomatum River" was the advice. Back past camp, through Purros village and onto the D3707 (which had been graded!) and into the Gomatum River, which was dry. No elephants, only one giraffe, and a python track. End of game drive. One richer game scout, 11 poorer travelers. Such is life.

Panoramic view of the Hoarusib River from the viewpoint near Purros (S18.70543 E12.93298). We then did some shopping in Purros village and went back to camp, to chill for the rest of the day. In the evening we had sundowners at the lookout point at S18.70543 E12.93298.

Sundowner views at the Hoarusib Viewpoint. Another kuk day in Africa.

Day 17, Sunday 18th April, Purros to Ongongo Community Camp 194 km, all dirt Plan for the day was to travel through the Purros Canyon and then down to Amspoort, and on to Sesfontein. We soon discovered that because of the river level, there was no way we could even enter the canyon, let alone travel through it. Plan B was called into play and we headed from Purros, onto the D3707 and then onto a track which led directly to Amspoort. We made good progress along this track and we nearing the entrance to the Hoanib River when we spotted a local vehicle coming towards us. Driving it was Herman, one of the managers of Palmwag Lodge who was en-route to Palmwag via a very long detour. He gave us the news that the Hoanib was impassable due to water, and that the powder dust was now very sticky mud. No way through. Luckily he knew of a short-cut to Sesfontein along a track which was not on T4A, and offered to lead us through. This track will be submitted to T4A so that future travelers in the same situation can also find it. The track passes over some steep hills (requiring low-range near the


summit) and then descends through a beautiful game-rich valley as the track drops towards Sesfontein.

Getting bad news and plotting a route for Plan B.

Outside the Fort at Sesfontein We duly arrived in Sesfontein, helping Hermann with a puncture along the way, did some shopping and had a look at Fort Sesfontein. No fuel available in Sesfontein, but fortunately we all had enough to reach Palmwag. We had an invitation from Herrman to camp at Palmwag Lodge, but the long drive did not appeal to us, so we opted for Ongongo Community Camp. Bad choice. The campsite needs low range to navigate, campsites are small and uneven, the ablutions are not good, and there are leeches in the rock pool. We were all low on food and beer, so it was simple suppers all round. Day 18, Monday 19th April, Ongongo to Twyfelfontein via Khorixas 379 km, about 10 km tar, balance dirt Leaving Ongongo we headed for Palmwag and refueled then went off to the Lodge for a good breakfast and for tyre repairs. Glenn also needed some welding done to his spare wheel brackets, which had developed cracks. We passed through the Vet gate (unusually diligent) and headed for Twyfelfontein. Along the road to the petrified forest there are numerous community run "petrified forests" which are mostly a rip-off. We avoided them. The official petrified forest is worth a visit, and there are also displays of Welwitschia along the guided walk. A good Kiosk and ablutions are available.


The road between Sesfontein and Palmwag.

A log in the Petrified Forest near Khorixas. We then headed for the Spar at Khorixas as we had no provisions. Fortunately we were able to obtain meat here, as well as just about all provisions (even Guinness!). From here we headed down the C35 and then the D2612 towards Aabadi Mountain camp. Just after turning onto the D2612, we stopped to celebrate Richard clocking 400 000 km on his Tdi. Then, we had to drive into the setting sun and were forced to stop for 10 minutes to let the sun set as it was impossible to see the road due to glare. We eventually reached Aabadi camp about an hour after sunset and gratefully settled down for the night. Wood was free, and we made a good campfire and very hot water for the showers.

Ducky’s achievenment – 400K km.

Ducky’s crew – Emily and Richard Von Berg. Day 19, Tuesday 20th April, Twyfelfontein to Brandberg 157 km, all dirt Before heading off to Brandberg, we visited the Rock Engravings, Burnt Mountain and the Organ Pipes, plus found a geocache near Burnt Mountain.


Rock engravings at Twyfelfontein.

Lunch stop, the Brandberg in the distance. Back along the D2612 and C35 until the turnoff just after Anixab and direct to Brandberg White Lady Lodge, with a lunch stop along the way. The afternoon was spent chilling around the pool at the lodge and discussing plans for the next day. We decided to speak to Eugene, the owner of the lodge about the possibility of driving down the Ugab River to the coast. We already knew about some sticky patches in the river, and that a section of the river had no T4A tracks along it. Eugene arrived from Uis about 7pm and his advice was that there was one sticky patch 4km downstream which was passable with careful driving, but that after 35 km we would have to leave the river (because of an impossible muddy section) and head across the Welwitschia Plains towards the D2342, which in turn led to Rhino Ugab Camp and back into the river bed, passing the abandoned Brandberg West Tin Mine en-route. From there, his advice was that we could reach the coast along the riverbed, but would have to exit the river at the Skeleton Coast Park Boundary and take a side road to the coast.

Different faces of the Brandberg. Heartened by this, we had supper and slept well. Little did we know what awaited us the next day! Day 20, Wednesday 21st April, Brandberg to Ugab River Bush Camp 138 km, all dirt At 7am, a group went off to do the walk to the White Lady painting. The walk is not difficult, but takes 45 - 55 min (one way) with some mild boulder hopping. The end Botswana/Namibia 2010 Peter Tiedt 35 of 45

result is a bit of an anticlimax, as the famous white lady is pretty faded and quite small, and against an overhang in a small cave. But it is a tick on the bucket list.

The White lady of the Brandberg.

Brandberg Lizard. Then back to camp and the departure along the riverbed trail. We found the T4A track easily, navigated the first muddy section without getting stuck and continued along the river. Every turning brought a different view, most of them quite wonderful and many stops were made for pictures. We reached the second muddy patch exactly where we were told to expect it, and sure enough it was unlikely that we would get through. So we left the river and followed the track along the western side of the Brandberg massif, enjoying even more great views. A lunch stop was taken along this road and then we continued along the Welwitscia plains, where we saw literally thousands of these amazing plants, living in the harshest of harsh conditions among sun baked rocks and gravel. We reached the D2342 and turned north again. On visiting the abandoned Brandberg West Mine we were saddened by the lack of rehabilitation carried out. Overburden was left in piles instead of being put back into the pit. Buildings had just been dynamited and left in ruins. Bad one, Goldfields!

Abandoned Brandberg West Tin Mine.

Another Brandberg Lizard. But, we had fun scratching through the overburden and collecting pretty mineralised rocks of all colours.


Scenes along the Welwitschia Plains – Stunning scenery. The Rhino Ugab camp was visited, but we decided not to stay as facilities were very plain and basic, and shade was minimal. We backtracked, then took the road leading down to the river and rejoined the river about 2 km below the camp. A section of very difficult track awaited us, with some steep river banks to climb. Once again almost everyone had to be recovered, and the recoveries ate time up very fast. The sun was sinking fast when we finally managed to find a bush camp spot against a massive cliff.

Along the Ugab River near Brandberg.

Magnificent Ugab River scenery.

Ugab River Campfire. Ugab River Bushcamp spot.


Day 21, Thursday 22nd April, Ugab River Bush camp to Henties Bay 214 km, all dirt On this day we broke camp and continued down the riverbed, sometimes having to search for the track which was barely perceptible. As on the previous day, each bend in the river brought in new magnificent views, including an amazing cliff of sedimentary rocks in alternating layers of black and almost white. The folded canyon sides reminded me of some of the southern Cape passes. Again, many photo stops were made as we enjoyed the views. We reached the river section where there were no T4A tracks, and found a lightly used track continuing along the river. This turned out to be slow going as in some places the track was invisible and we had to pick our own way through the rocks, shrubs, acacia trees and the banks. But the rewards were certainly there in the magnificent scenery. Gradually the height of the canyon walls dropped and the desertification increased. Rounding a bend we came across the sign mentioned by Eugene indicating that there was no entry further to the west as we would then be in the Skeleton Coast National Park. Here we left the river and moved onto the banks where we found the track leading to the coast.

Magnificent Ugab River scenery.

There was much excitement as we saw the Atlantic Ocean in the distance and on reaching the salt road, we turned off onto the beach and dipped our feet into the icy Atlantic. We had crossed the sub-continent, taking three weeks, many adventures, and having seen stunning panoramas almost every day.

More magnificent Ugab River scenery.


Even more magnificent Ugab River scenery. On to Mile 108 where we refueled. Only after my tank was almost full did I see the diesel price - about 75c/l more expensive than Henties Bay, a few kilometers down the coast. Ouch! I should have just put in a splash and dash. Old Brown Sherry was also R40 per bottle at the shop! Another ouch!

Contrasting black & white layers of sedimentary rocks laid down over millions of years. Then we travelled down the salt road to Henties Bay where we checked in at Bucks Camp. Very nice with individual ablutions for each site and electrically heated water! And waterborne sewerage! We all hit the showers and (on local advice) decided to head for Fishy Corner for a good restaurant meal - the first since Grootfontein, two weeks earlier.


The last stretch of the Ugab River trail was followed by our arrival at the coast and our first views of the

Atlantic Ocean. Fishy Corner is a cosy restaurant in central Henties Bay and the food is outstanding! Many had the Cream of Mussel soup as a starter (delicious) and followed that with Kabeljou (or Kabeljou and Calamari). Both were pronounced excellent, and the portions were huge! Some of the ladies could not finish their portion and took doggy bags. More about this later.... It was a very satisfied group that headed (waddled) back to camp after an excellent meal. Day 22, Friday 23rd April, Henties Bay to Swakopmund (Mile 4) 106 km, salt road Yep, we did some shopping in Henties, drove around the town, and then took the salt road for the short drive to Swakopmund. We were booked for Alte Brucke for the next night and were hoping that we could be given two nights, but no luck, so off to the rather barren Mile 4 campsite for the night. We enjoyed the Crystal Gallery in Swakop, as well as some of the other sights of this pretty town, and also went off to Kucki's bar to book our table for the end of trip party the next night.

The coast between Swakopmund and Walvis Bay, and the curio market in Swakopmund. That night we befriended a solo overland traveler (a German from Australia) who was doing Africa from south to north, then Asia and back to Singapore. We had great fun Botswana/Namibia 2010 Peter Tiedt 40 of 45

around the fire and donated my water trap funnel to him so that he could screen any dodgy fuel on his way north through Africa. The left over kabeljou from the previous night, coupled with avocadoes from the Spar made an excellent avocado Ritz - thanks girls. This was followed by a braai, and then my famous Bush Cocoa. Day 23, Sat 24th April, Swakopmund to Walvis Bay and return (Alte Brucke) 127 km, all tar This was to be a total chill day, and Lothar and I decided to take a drive through to Walvis Bay for some birding, while the others went for the adrenalin activities on the dunes. The birding along the Walvis Bay shoreline past the Salt Works was really great, and we checked into Alte Brucke in mid afternoon after a Wimpy lunch. Alte Brucke is an excellent campsite (the most expensive of the trip) with good individual ablutions and grassed stands. Glen and Gail decided to skip the extra night in Swakopmund, and to start the long journey back, giving them an extra recovery day in Durban.

Flamingoes and Cormorants in Walvis Bay, then the trip conclusion dinner at Kucki’s Pub in Swakopmund. That evening we went off to Kucki's bar and had a truly memorable meal of German Cuisine with the compulsory Jagermeisters. We very loudly celebrated a fantastic trip (my best yet), great teamwork among the entire group, wonderful vistas, fantastic camping and excellent fun. The next day we had planned to head for Zelda's near Gobabis, but were told of an imminent strike by Namibian border officials in two days time - when we were due to cross the border. Suddenly plans were changed and we decided to make an early start, and get past the Namibia / Botswana border the next day, then take our chances on finding a campsite or a bush camp in Botswana. Day 24, Sunday 25th April, Swakopmund to Charles Hill Bush Camp 783 km, all tar At 07h00, we refueled and left Swakopmund for Windhoek and Gobabis. The trip was uneventful and Bill and Lisa were dropped of at Windhoek airport, where they had Botswana/Namibia 2010 Peter Tiedt 41 of 45

flights back to SA. On we went towards Gobabis, hoping to get some good Namibian biltong, but virtually the entire town was closed for the Sunday afternoon siesta. The Namibian border facilities were quick. We weren't asked for the road tax receipt, and we didn't press the point. Checking into Botswana was just as quick and we set off down the Trans Kalahari Highway, refueling at Charles Hill. We had been driving in overcast conditions for most of the day and now it started to rain. There were no formal or community campsites nearby, so we started looking for a bush camp spot. At last the road became unfenced and we found a spot a few hundred meters off the road and settled into a damp camp. Around the fire, some discussed taking an extra day to get back. This was not on for Lothar and I, so it was agreed that we would set off earlier than the others and leave them to follow, taking the extra day if required.

The final bushcamp near Charles Hill in Botswana, and the group in the Khaudum Omarumba. Intermittent rain the entire night. Not pleasant, because it meant having to pack a wet tent the next morning. Day 25, Monday 26th April, Charles Hill to Pinetown. 1637 km, all tar Up at first light, fortunately the rain had stopped, but everything was still wet. Oh well, pack away the wet RTT and hope to get a chance to dry it out soon. We set off for Kang where we grabbed a bite to eat, and then on to Jwaneng and Kanye, where we refueled. At this stage we were toying with the idea of pushing right through to Durban, the GPS indicating an ETA of 01h00. We decided to go for it, and cleared into SA at Lobatse, which was fairly quick. On to Lichtenburg, then Orkney and Kroonstad where we stopped for supper. Then to Senekal and Bethlehem (many stop / go road works between Senekal and Bethlehem, and more towards Kestell - these cost us at least 45 min). Then Harrismith for a refuel, and on to Durban, where we arrived just after 02h00. I quickly took the valuables out of the Landy, then hit the sack after an exhausting 19 hour drive, fortunately shared with Lothar. The end of my best trip to date.


Picture Credits The whole group is acknowledged – I have borrowed freely from everyone’s pictures – thanks for sharing them with me. Daily Travel Record

Kaokoland 2010 ‐ GPS Log Date Place

LR Odo Km

Odo Daily

Odo Cumul

GPS Daily

GPS Cumul

01-Apr-10 Pinetown 250 080

02-Apr-10 Kanye (Motse Lodge) 251 027 947 947 920 920

03-Apr-10 Ghanzi 251 629 602 1 549 586 1 506

04-Apr-10 Bushcamp – Caves Road 251 974 345 1 894 335 1 841

05-Apr-10 Bushcamp – Bots/Nam

border 252 159 185 2 079 180 2 021

06-Apr-10 Sikereti Camp 252 310 151 2 230 146 2 167

07-Apr-10 Khaudum Camp 252 416 106 2 336 103 2 270

08-Apr-10 Grootfontein 252 905 489 2 825 473 2 743

09-Apr-10 Kunene River Lodge 253 506 601 3 426 585 3 328

10-Apr-10 Kunene River Lodge 253 506 3 426 3 328

11-Apr-10 Epupa Falls Comm Camp 253 680 174 3 600 168 3 496

12-Apr-10 Van Zyls Pass Top 253 831 151 3 751 145 3 641

13-Apr-10 Camp Syncro 253 905 74 3 825 73 3 714

14-Apr-10 Bushcamp - Hartmann's

Valley 254 070 165 3 990 160 3 874

15-Apr-10 Bushcamp - Khumib

River 254 244 174 4 164 167 4 041

16-Apr-10 Purros Community Camp 254 327 83 4 247 81 4 122

17-Apr-10 Purros Community Camp 254 370 43 4 290 41 4 163

18-Apr-10 Ongongo Community

Camp 254 564 194 4 484 188 4 351

19-Apr-10 Twyfelfontein

(Mountain Aabadi Camp) 254 943 379 4 863 368 4 719

20-Apr-10 Brandberg White Lady

Lodge 255 100 157 5 020 152 4 871

21-Apr-10 Bushcamp - Ugab River 255 238 138 5 158 132 5 003

22-Apr-10 Henties Bay) 255 452 214 5 372 207 5 210

23-Apr-10 Swakopmund

(Mile 4 Campsite) 255 558 106 5 478 103 5 313

24-Apr-10 Swakopmund (Alte

Brucke) 255 685 127 5 605 123 5 436

25-Apr-10 Bushcamp - Charles Hill 256 468 783 6 388 758 6 194

26-Apr-10 Pinetown 258 099 1 631 8 019 1 556 7 750

27-Apr-10 Pinetown (refueled) 258 105 6 8 025 6 7 756


Fuel Record

Kaokoland 2010 ‐ Fuel Log

Date Place Odo Rang

e litres

Amount Local

Amount ZAR

Amount

Actual Curr

Rate Local

Rate ZAR

1-Apr-10 Open Refuel

Km

1-Apr-10 Trip Start Km 250 080

2-Apr-10 Harrismith T/S 250 369 289 35.000 513.85 513.85 255.85 ZAR 7.31 7.31

3-Apr-10 Kanye 251 031 662 81.080 480.00 552.00 552.00 BWP 5.92 6.81

4-Apr-10 Ghanzi 251 645 614 80.760 491.00 564.65 564.65 BWP 6.08 6.99

4-Apr-10 Sehitwa 251 881 236 33.000 321.70 369.96 369.96 BWP 6.07 6.98

8-Apr-10 Rundu 252 589 708 105.440 783.41 783.41 783.41 NAD 7.43 7.43

9-Apr-10 Grootfontein 252 906 317 43.130 320.46 320.46 320.46 NAD 7.43 7.43

9-Apr-10 Ruacana 253 426 520 63.420 1064.21 1064.21 1064.21 NAD 7.42 7.42

19-Apr-10 Palmwag 254 658 1 232 174.240 766.15 766.15 766.15 NAD 7.35 7.35

22-Apr-10 Mile 108 255 349 691 93.950 776.05 776.05 776.05 NAD 8.26 8.26

25-Apr-10 Swakopmund 255 687 338 41.440 310.00 310.00 310.00 NAD 7.48 7.48

25-Apr-10 Charles Hill 256 396 709 98.361 600.00 690.00 690.00 BWP 6.10 7.01

26-Apr-10 Kanye 257 125 729 109.460 648.00 745.20 745.20 BWP 5.92 6.81

26-Apr-10 Harrismith T/S 257 807 682 90.300 703.43 703.43 703.43 ZAR 7.79 7.79

27-Apr-10 Marianhill T/S 258 102 295 34.255 262.05 262.05 262.05 ZAR 7.65 7.65

Totals 8 022 1083.836 8421.42 8163.41 7.33

Less Fuel in cans

213.81 213.81 7.13

Nett Fuel 1083.836 8207.61 7949.60 7.33

Avg km/l 7.40 R/km 0.99

Totals

Avg l/100 km 13.51 R/100 km 99.10


Bird List

1 7 8 49 56 57 62 67 71 81 85 87 89 91 93 96 97 99 102 106 108 115 116 123 124 126 127 131 137 142 146 153 158 160 161 162 180 194 199 203

Ostrich Blacknecked Grebe Little Grebe (Dabchick) White Pelican Cape Cormorant Bank Cormorant Grey Heron Little Egret Cattle Egret Hamerkop Abdims Stork Openbilled Stork Marabou Stork Sacred Ibis Glossy Ibis Greater Flamingo Lesser Flamingo Whitefaced Duck Egyptian Goose Cape Teal Redbilled Teal Knobbilled Duck Spurwinged Goose Whitebacked Vulture Lappetfaced Vulture Yellowbilled Kite Blackshouldered Kite Black / Verreaux's Eagle African Hawk eagle Brown Snake Eagle Bateleur Augur Buzzard Black Sparrowhawk African Goshawk Gabar Goshawk Pale Chanting Goshawk Eastern Redfooted Kestrel Redbilled Spurfowl Swainsons Spurfowl Helmeted Guineafowl

213 230 239 246 255 258 272 281 283 284 294 295 297 298 312 316 344 347 349 352 353 354 355 356 358 367 373 390 396 402 428 440 447 452 457 459 538 541 547 548

Black Crake Kori Bustard Northern Black Korhaan Whitefronted Plover Crowned Plover Blacksmith Plover Curlew Sandpiper Sanderling Broadbilled Sandpiper Ruff Avocet Blackwinged Stilt Spotted Thickknee Water Thickknee Kelp Gull Hartlaubs Gull Namaqua Sandgrouse Doublebanded Sandgrouse Rock Pigeon Redeyed Dove African Mourning Dove Cape Turtle Dove Laughing Dove Namaqua Dove Greenspotted Dove Rosyfaced Lovebird Grey Go-away Bird Senegal Coucal African Scops Owl Verreauxs Eagle owl Pied Kingfisher Blue-Cheeked Bee Eater Lilacbreasted Roller Redbilled Hoopoe African Grey Hornbill Yellowbilled Hornbill Black Cuckooshrike Forktailed Drongo Black (Cape) Crow Pied Crow

567 586 595 613 615 618 621 625 658 710 703 713 732 735 738 739 744 746 756 762 763 764 770 771 779 788 799 800 801 819 821 824 844 849 861 862 870 886

African Redeyed Bulbul Mountain Chat/Wheatear Anteating Chat/Wheatear Whitebrowed Scrubrobin Kalahari Scrubrobin Herero Scrubrobin Chestnut-Vented Tit-babbler Icterine Warbler Barred Wren-warbler Paradise Flycather Pririt Batis Cape Wagtail Common Fiscal Shrike Longtailed/Magpie Shrike Swamp Boubou Crimson Breasted Shrike Blackcrowned Tchagra Bokmakierie Southern Whitecrowned Shrike Burchells Starling Meves Long Tailed Starling Cape Glossy Starling Palewing Starling Yellowbilled Oxpecker Marico Sunbird Dusky Sunbird Whitebrowed Sparrow-weaver Sociable Weaver House Sparrow Redheaded Weaver Redbilled Quelea Southern Red Bishop Blue Waxbill Cinderella Waxbill Shafttailed Wydah Long Tailed Paradise Wydah Blackthroated Canary Cinnamon Breasted Bunting


Trip Report - The Overland Forum · Trip Synopsis The trip plan was originally conceived by Peter...

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