travelogue and glass Rome - MAXXI · the Galleria Doria Pamphilj, on the Via del Corso, which...

Vanity Fair Supplement N° 643

Whoa,

Ilan!

Rome

maynothavebeenbuilt in

a daybut it

sometimesseemedas if

nothinghadbeenbuiltsincethetime

of JuliusCaesar

,

thatLaDolceVitawasforeverAnitaEkbergsplashing in theTreviFountainandthattheEternalCityneededromanticallydustingoffpostAudrey HepburnandRomanHoliday.NopalacehotelslikeParis

,

noiconic

Cipriani likeVenice,

or VillaSanMichelelikeFlorence

,

or anythinghappeningrecentlyotherthanTheDaVinciCode

,

a travelogue onchurches.Butthen if you' re TomHankson a

mission to savetheworld, youhaveno

time to idleawayonboutiquechic.Suddenly , everything hashappened in

Rome at once . Checkboutiquechic:all

thehotels,

withtheexception of theDeRussie

,

seemedstuck in anotherdecade

PHOTOGRAPHS BYNATHALIEKRAG

TheStateArchives in Rome,

and a

view of theZahaHadid-designedMAXXINationalMuseum

of the21stCenturyArts.

HOLIDAYIfyouhaven'

t been to Romefor a while, you're in for a pleasantsurprise.

A suddenexplosionof happeningnewhotels

,

clubsandgallerieshasbroughttheEternalCitybangup to date

, saysJAMESREGINATO

thantheoneweare in. NowJ.K . Place

Romahasopened ina palazzooffthe

ViaCondotti;

theslickPalazzoManfredioverlookstheColiseum

,

with a glassrestaurantgorgingontheview

;

andFerragamo' s

PortraitSuites is alllimedwoodsanddovegrey ,

witha divine

rooftopdeck . Check fitness : MadonnahasexhortedRomans to

" Getready to

sweat! " byopeningherlatestHardCandygym ,

athree-storied luxury

N° and issue date : 643 - 01/03/2014Circulation : 86000Frequency : Random

Web Site: -

Page : 94Size : 85 %2030 cm2

Copyright (Vanity Fair (Supplement)) No reproduction without authorisation1 / 4

-


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T BEAPPIA

Clockwisefrom topleft :

a view of theViaAppiaAntica,

ontheoutskirts of Rome;

theGasometro in Ostiense,

anindustrialneighbourhoodon

thebanks of theTiberthathasbecomeanentertainment

andnightlifehub;

theFioranowineestate

, lookingfromthevineyardstowards themain

house;

works of artondisplay at theGalleriaLorcan

O' Neill;

tables inthebar

at thenewlyopenedJ.K.PlaceRoma.


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Page : 95Size : 85 %2030 cm2


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palace of pumpingandperspiration.Checkrestaurants :

when in Rome,

oneneverfailed

to eat atDalBolognese ,

Al

Moro( trying to distinguish Valentino

fromthepolishedwood)

or DaNino .It

wouldhavebeenrudenot to

,

ratherlikeneglecting to

visitone' s grandmotherwhen in town .

Now thehottablesare at

CaffePropaganda ,

whitebrick' n' zincleader of thepack of newbar

/

restaurant

hybridsthathasintroducedRome to thecocktail in a Balthazarway . Checkcontemporaryart : contemporary , why?Thepoint of Rome is theoldstuff

,

butLarryGagosianhassweptintotown

,

ZahaHadidhasdesignedtheMAXXImuseumandIrishdealerLorcan O'

Neill, very

TraceyEmin,

hasmovedfromTrastevere to

thePalazzoPassolini

.Checknightlife :

allhappening at

Gasometro in

Ostiense,

theHoxton of Rome,

a working-class andindustrialquartergoneedgy in thesouth of

thecity . Theabandonedgasometer

,

a circularmetalskeleton92metreshighthat is thetallest of

itskind in Europe ,

is thelynchpinof surroundingpop-upbarsandclubsontheTiber

.And

whilebravingOstiense,

checkoutgastronomicmegastoreEataly ,

likeWholeFoodsonspeed ,

in theformerair-terminalbuilding.

Indubitably

thenewJ.K .PlaceRoma

hasuppedthecity' s credfromclassic to

cool. Previously ,

themostwowplaceyoucouldstaywastheResidenzaNapoleone III

,

a privateapartment onViaFontanellaBorghesethat is pureGrandTour . HotelierOriKafri'

s J.K .Places in FlorenceandCapri

aretheSohoHouses(

seepage67)

of

Italy : clubby ,

scrambled eggs at 4pm in

thelibrary if youwant it

,

anhonestytrayloadedwithhomemadepastries.

" Guestscanhaveanything , anytime . We

1111111110"

---

92VANITYFAIRONTRAVELwww.vonityfoir.corn

DOME,

OPENCITY

SunriseoverRome,

seenfromtheJaniculum . Below :

AudreyHepburn andGregoryPeck in RomanHoliday ,

1953 . Opposite : theColiseum,

seenfromtherestaurant at

Palazzo Manfredi.

likethem to feelthatthey' re in a privatehouse

,

"

saysKafri . HisRomepropertyonlyhas30rooms

, registershugeonthebathroomscales

( bigbathroomsarethenewessential in hoteldom

)

,

and is

lavishedwithlush-but-funkydesignbyMicheleMilan . Thestaffareyourfriends

, gentlebutmodern, nothing

Carsonaboutthem . A P.G . Wodehousebutlerwithiceformingonhisupperslopes is sonotJ.K .

Thisis a cocoon of

thesimple luxury of feelingcomfortable,

beingthreeminutesfrom a shoppingaccident in theCondotti or a

selfieontheSpanishStepsandthen

retreating toa nourishing

cocktail .It

makestheoldguard of

hotelslookveryancientRome.Ofcourse

,

allroadsleadthere,

buteventheViaAppiaAntica,

theworld '

sfirsthighway , dating

from312Bc,

hashada

shot in thearm . TheruttedvolcanicstonesarethesameonesuponwhichRomansoldiersmarched

,

thereareoldmausoleumsamongthemajesticcypress treesalongtheroadsideandsheepsafelygrazeamidtheruinsof aqueducts.

Onepasseshighgates ,

behindwhicharehithertomysteriousvillas

;

butoneestate,

Fiorano,

hasnowopened . It belonged to PrinceAlbericoBoncompagniLudovisi

,

aneccentricaristocrat-farmer

MARCH2014

PHOTOGRAPH

,

PARAMOUNT

/

THE

KOBAL

COLLECTION

(

HEPBURN

,

GRANT

)


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-


who introducedorganic farming to Italyin

the1930shere, producingwines

,

growingcropsandraisinglivestock.A decadeafterhisdeath

,

hisgranddaughters"sisters Alessia

, AllegraandAlbieraAntinori

,

the26thgeneration of

theItalianwinedynasty"haverevivedtheestate

, closelyadhering to theirgrandfather' s organicmethods

. At

weekendsthegirlsnowoperate a rusticcucinaaperta ,

a farm-to-tablefantasy .

" Wetakeguestsoutintothegardenandtheycanpickthevegetablestheywantfortheirmeal

,

"

saysAlessia.

Enoughwork . Onethenleavesit up to

chefSaraBugiada to choosetherightingredientsfromthemultitude

of goodthingsproducedonthefarm

, includingfruits

,

nuts, honey , grainsandcheese.

Thefirstvintage of theorganicwinebeingproducedon theestate is due

to beintroducednextyear . BugiadaalsousesthemotheryeastthatwashandeddownbyPrinceBoncampagni to makecrustycountryloaves

,

focacciaandpizzabases.Takeone of herpicnicswithyouon a

bicycle to explorebeautifulLazio,

oftenoverlooked in therace to Tuscany.

Fiorano

is nownottheonlyprincelyestablishment whereonecanpeekbehindthescenes.

Beento

theGalleriaBorghese (

staggering BerniniandCanovamasterpieces )?

SeentheCapitolineMuseum(

classicalRomanartfromthe8thcenturyBC

)?

Thengo to theGalleriaDoriaPamphilj ,

ontheViadelCorso,

whichPrinceJonathanDoria-Pamphiljhasrecently renovatedanddottedwiththeusualsuspectsfor a Renaissance palace :

Raphael ,

Titian, Caravaggio . Thentotter

twominutesfromthere to theGalleriaColonna"so beautiful"home

to

ColonnapopesandmilitaryheroesandnowPrinceProsperoColonna

, begun in

the13thcenturyandfinished in Roman

Holiday . AudreyHepburn' s farewellscenewasfilmed in thegallery ,

one of

theworld '

s mostbreathtaking spaces . A

cannonballfiredbytheFrenchduringtheirsiege of Rome in 1849 remainswhere it landed

,

embedded in theelegantmarblestepsjustbelowthefamilythrone.

SotheoldRomewelove is vibrant.Everydecade of civilisationhasleftitsmarkhere

,

theepochsmerginggracefullyintooneanother . Yet it is good to

seetheoldgirlkickingupherheelswiththenewanddifferent.

Ciao,

bella .Q

VANITYFAIRI

Travelsto...

ROMEWAYTO60

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NEED TOKNOW

JohnFort is a greatman,

themostfunandthebestguide to Rome . Contacthim

throughBelliniTravel(

bellinitravel.com) ,

whowillalsosortyour travel . Bellini' s founder,

LadyEmilyFitzRoy ,

hastheinsider infoonshoppingandhotbars.

READON

TheLuxeguide to Rome( luxecityguides.com )

delivers indispensible ,

irreverentbrillianceonallthe latestandgreatest in

a light ,

convenientconcertina shapethatyoucanpop in yourpocket . Tellsyouhandythings like "

Scowling ownerFrancocanbe a rightgrumpy ol

' sod "

atAl Moro.

MARCH2014www.vonityfair.com VANITYFAIRONTRAVEL93


Web Site: -

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travelogue and glass Rome - MAXXI · the Galleria Doria Pamphilj, on the Via del Corso, which...

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Transcript of travelogue and glass Rome - MAXXI · the Galleria Doria Pamphilj, on the Via del Corso, which...