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Our Definitive Guide to

A crocheted installation by

Brazilian artist Ernesto

Neto at the new Faena Arts

Center, in Puerto Madero.

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South Americas cultural hub is thriving,thanks to avant-garde museums,

sophisticated new hotels, and creative

restaurants that span the citys

colorful barrios. By Colin Barraclough

LOCAL TAKE

A dizzying mix of Europe and Latin

America, colonial and contemporary,

laid-back and fast-paced, Buenos Aires

has a buzz all its own. In recent years,

forward-thinking gallery directors,

hoteliers, and chefs have reinvigorated

the city with innovative projects,

from the contemporary Faena Arts

Center, in Puerto Madero, to the

wine-themed Mo Buenos Aires hotel,

in tony Recoleta. And with much-touted

dance and music festivals on the

horizon (including next months tango

celebration), the stylish capital is

now more appealing than ever. Buenos

Aires at your fingertips? Look no further.

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BUENOS AIRES

Lay ofthe LandA guide to the citys essential

neighborhoods .

LA BOCAThe working-class district

retains a lavor o the citys earlyimmigrant days, rom theaades o Caminito to unsungItalian trattorias.

MICROCENTROBest or daytime sightseeing,downtown has the lions shareo landmark buildings.

PALERMO VIEJOBuenos Airess young and hipconvene here or the edgyboutiques and bars set

in ivy-covered town houses.

PUERTO MADEROWeekenders come to therestored port to stroll across theSantiago CalatravadesignedPuente de la Mujer bridgeand dine at upscale restaurants.RECOLETAArgentinas oldest moniedamilies live in this well-heeledenclave. Blue-chip boutiquesand elegant hotels attract thecitys sophisticated set.

SAN TELMOBy day, this historicneighborhood shines with itscobblestoned lanes. At night,a savvy crowd is drawn to theater-midnight bar scene.

GETTING AROUNDThe Subte, or metro,is the mosteicient means o transportation.Expect to do a lot o walking.Taxis are also a great option andare aordable and easy to hail.

Buenos Airess hottest hotelopenings. Plus, the classics we love.

HOTEL BOCAJUNIORSThe worlds irstsoccer-themed hotelpays homage to BuenosAiress much-adoredteam Boca Juniors.Uruguayan architectCarlos Ott is responsible

or the creative design,in which concave glasswalls allow sunlight tolood the ample rooms.BEST FORFtbolanatics. 243 Tacuari;hotelbocajuniors.com. $$

HOTEL CLUBFRANCSSince its opening in1866, the storied FrenchClub has drawngenerations opoliticians and writers.

While the citysintelligentsia stillcongregates at the lobbybar, the upper loorwas recently turned intoa 28-room hotel illedwith antiques and periodurniture. BEST FORTravelers with a passionor history. 1832Rodrguez Pea; hotel

clubfrances.com.ar.$$$

HOTELPULITZERHidden in Microcentro,this whimsical hotelearns our praise or itsnautical interiors. Thehighlight: steel-trimmedmodular urniture.BEST FOR Stylishaordability.907 Maip;hotelpulitzer.com.ar. $

MOBUENOSAIRESDoors ashioned outo wine-stained barrelslats, hardwood loors,and bathtubs maderom caldn tree trunkswarm the interiors atvintner Csar Catenas

newcomer. BEST FORIn-the-know oenophiles.465 Avda. Presidente

Manuel Quintana;

miobuenosaires.com.

$$$

THE CLASSICSAlgodon Mansion

Although only two yearsold, this Belle poquegem has already becomethe standard-bearer orluxury. algodonmansion.com. $$$

Alvear Palace Hotel

International A-listers,rom Prince Charlesto Donatella Versace,have stayed at this80-year-old grandedame. alvearpalace.com. $$$

Four Seasons HotelBook a suite in theoriginal 1920 building,decorated withornate mirrors andtoile de Jouy wallpaper.fourseasons.com.$$$

Palacio Duhau

Park Hyatt Thisstylish Recoletaproperty includes aNeoclassical mansionand a contemporaryminimalist tower.park.hyatt.com. $$$

Algodon

Mansions Chez

Nous restaurant,

in Recoleta.

Below: A suite at

Hotel Pulitzer,

in Microcentro.

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EPENDENCIA

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Shop

BEYOND THE CITY Visit criollo and gauchoartisans in the colonial town oSan Antonio de Areco,a two-hour drive northwest. Carve out an aternoonor the two-hour trip east toCarlos Keen, a reurbishedormer railway station that hostsart shows.

I youre looking or outdooradventure, head to Tandil,a popular hub or hiking, biking,and rock climbing our hourssouth o the city.

See+Do

Silversmith 1 Marcelo Toledo(462 Humberto

Primo; marcelotoledo.net) is one of the finest jewelry

designers in the city. We love his re-creations of EvaPerons gem-encrusted necklaces. Aromatic herbs

sourced from Patagonia and the Pampas region infuse

the perfumes at 2 Fueguia(1680 Avda. Alvear; fueguia.

com). For slim cocktail dresses in black and white,

dont miss 3 Ramrez (587 Per; pabloramirez.com.ar).

Brazilian clothing designer Oskar Metsavaht creates

sleek silhouettes from organic materials at 4 Osklen

(1245 Posadas; osklen.com).You cant beat the selection

of colorful leather jackets at 5 Murillo 666(666 Murillo;

murillo666.com.ar). Rug maker 6 Graciela Churba

(1774 Godoy Cruz; gracielachurba.com.ar) crafts her

patterns in ochers by hand-dyeing sheeps wool beforeweaving on a traditional loom.

Five standouts in the style-obsessed city.

A tour of the citys art and historicalgems for culture hounds.

Housed in a renovated

grain mill, thejust-opened FAENAARTS CENTER(1169 Aim Pain;

faenaartscenter.org) isa cathedral-sizemuseum dedicated toworks by artistssuch as Cuban duoDagoberto Rodrguezand Marco Castillo,who are known asLos Carpinteros.

Swing by MUSEO DE

ARTE MODERNODE BUENOS AIRES(350 Avda. San Juan;

museodeartemoderno.

buenosaires.gob.ar)

to see 20th-centurypieces in the industrialand video arts.Highlights includeAntonio Segusilk-screen prints andAlberto Herediasculptures.

RUTH BENZACAR

(1000 Florida;ruthbenzacar.com),

in Retiro, is a mustor lovers o avant-garde art. The spaciousgallery showcasesthe best rom bothemerging andestablished Argentineartists (Flavia DaRim and Miguel ngelRos, to name two).

At MALBA(3415

Avda. Figueroa Alcorta;malba.org.ar), youllind a permanentcollection o more than500 paintings,sculptures, and objectsrom top LatinAmerican talent.Theres also ascreening room thatshowcasesindependent ilms.

Museo de Arte Moderno,

in San Telmo.

Clockwise from

above: Owner Julian

Bedel at his shop,Fueguia; a leather

tote bag from Osklen;

silverware from

Marcelo Toledo.

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BUENOS AIRES

KitchenConfidentialWhat could be better than an

intimate dinner party thrown

at the house of a local chef?

In Buenos Aires, puertas

cerradas (or underground

supper clubs) are drawing

in-the-know travelers.

At Almacn Secreto Club(3266 Gregoria Perez;

almacensecretoclub.blogspot.com;

$$), bee-and-bean locro stewsare matched with Malbecs.

Christina Sunae serves Thai-stylepork and green curries atCocina Sunae(Roseti and 14 deJulio; cocinasunae.com; $$).

Paladar Buenos Aires(Acevedo and Camargo;

paladarbuenosaires.com.ar; $$),in the Villa Crespo barrio, isone o the city s most sought-ater tables, thanks to che PabloAbramovskys resh market are.

Craving grilled steak? Just-caught fish?Four spots guaranteed to please your palate.

The bar at Palermos Leopoldo,

left. Below: Merluza fish

at Sanbenito, in Belgrano.

Join us for a Facebook

chat with expert Colin

Barraclough on Buenos

Aires and all things South

America. July 18 at 2 p.m.

EDT on facebook.com/travelandleisure.

118 JULY 2012 TRAVEL+LEISURE

1For years, onlyshermen couldaccess the jetty thatjuts rom the AvenidaCostanera into theRo de la Plata. Thischanged with theopening oEl Muelle,an excellent seaood

spot on the pier thatquickly won a loyalollowing with saladso resh king craband grilled wrecksh.Avda. Costanera

Rafael Obligado and

Avda. Sarmiento;

elmuellerestaurante.

com.ar.$$$

2Che Diego Gerawhips up intenselyavored signaturedishes such as crisp-skinned suckling pigpaired with quincepure at the purple-hued Leopoldo, inPalermo. Afer dinner,

head to the restaurantspatio or cocktailsand live DJ music.3732 Avda. Cervio;

leopoldorestaurante.

com.ar.$$$

3Afer scoringhits with steakhouse Sucre andlounge Gran BarDanzn, restaurateurLuis Morandi openedSanbenito, an ArtDecostyle restaurantin Belgrano that

serves hearty comortoods, rom tenderosso buco with gnocchito braised lambshoulder accompaniedby carrot pure andRsti (ried potatopancake). 2136 Avda.Federico Lacroze;

sanbenitorestaurante.

com.ar.$$$

4RenownedArgentine cheDaro Gualtieri recentlytook the reins at thelong-loved bistroSocial Paraso. Hismission: to shake upthe menu with cutting-edge dishes like

Patagonian prawnscooked in palm oiland coconut milk andSichuan-pepper icecream with passion-ruit mousse. Its nosurprise that patronskeep coming back.5182 Honduras; 54-

11/4831-4556. $$

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Aldo GrazianiSommelier, AldosI opened the bar

Tercer Tiempo in

the late eighties,

when Palermo wasmostly residential.

These days the neighborhood is full

of hip spots. For lunch, locals go to

La Pulpera(1667 Uriarte; 54-11/4833-6039; $$), an old-fashioned

diner that serves a delicious

oyster-mushroom sandwich.

Nearby, Bolivia(1581 Gurruchaga;

54-11/4832-6284) stocks a great

selection of mens clothing, from

casual f loral-print shirts to

slim-fitting suits. Come nighttime,

I love Mundo Bizarro(1222 Serrano;

54-11/4773-1967), a cocktail lounge

with a great rock-and-roll vibe.

Gabriela HorvatJewelry designerI live near the

Paran River delta

in Tigre, a

30-minute drivefrom downtown

Buenos Aires. Every morning

I take my dog for a walk on the

riverbank Paseo Victorica.

Afternoon tea on the veranda at

the Tigre Boat Club(156 Paseo

Victorica; tigreboatclub.org.ar) is

lovely; you can watch hundred-

year-old boats on the water. For a

culture fix, go to the restored

Museo de Arte Tigre(972 PaseoVictorica; mat.gov.ar), which

features Argentinean paintings

from the late 19th through the

20th century.

YADID

LEVY(3).ILLUSTRATIONS

BYLAUREN

NASSEF

Alejandro DigilioChef, La Vinera deGualterio BolvarSan Telmo was

pretty rough around

the edges until adecade ago. Around

that time tourists began discovering

the areas hidden jewels. The

antiques stores on Defensa and the

retro housewares at Cualquier

Verdura(517 Humberto Primo;

cualquierverdura.com.ar) are fun

to browse, but I also love whats

left of old San Telmo: the covered,

19th-century Mercado de San

Telmo(Carlos Calvo and Bolvar;

mercadodesantelmo.com) and the

caf Aconcagua(502 Estados

Unidos; 54-11/4362-3826;$), a spot for

the old guys from the barrio.

Three insiders share theirfavorite places in the city.

Sharpen your milongamoves with our dance-illed itinerary.2 p.m. Book a class at the salon Confitera Ideal(confiteriaideal.com), in a grand 1912mansion in Microcentro.10 p.m. Watch Rojo Tango, the hottest tango show in town, live at Faena Hotel &Universes El Cabaret (rojotangoshow.com).12 a.m. Ready to strut your stu? Head to San Telmos CentroRegin Leonesa(1462Humberto Primo; 54-911/4147-8687). Its the best place to dance with locals.

TangoBeats

From left:

Housewares shop

Cualquier Verdura,

in San Telmo;

Tigres Paseo

Victorica; clothing

boutique Bolivia,

in Palermo.