Traditional Furniture

WOODSMITH CIJSTOM WOODWORKING

TraditionalFurniture

TIME ®

EIRmooKs

SHOP SAFETY IS YOUR RESPONSIBILITYUsing hand or power tools improperly can result in

serious injury or death. Do not operate any tool until

you read the manual and understand how to operate the

tool safely. Always use all appropriate safetyequipment as well as the guards that come with yourtools and equipment and read the manuals that

accompany them. In some of the illustrations in this

book, the guards and safety equipment have beenremoved only to provide a better view of the operation.Do not attempt any procedure without using all

appropriate safety equipment or without ensuring that

all guards are in place. August Home PublishingCompany assumes no responsibility for injury, damageor loss suffered as a result of your use of the material,plans or illustrations contained in this book.

WOODSMITH (USTOM WOODWORKING

TraditionalFurniture

By the editors of Woodsmith magazine

TraditionalWOODSM I TH FurnitureCUSTOM WOODWORKING

TABLES 6Curved-Front Table ..................... . .. ..................8

With curved panels and delicate inlays, this table looks like a complex project.But a table saw and a router table are all it takes to build these details.

Coffee Table................... . ....................20

This elegant table is sure to become an heirloom. The cabriole legs requireonly a band saw and some hand tools - or you can buy them ready-made.

Bow-Front End Table.................. . ....................30

The details in this piece are a reßection of your craftsmanship. The secret to

making the curved drawers is simple - build them square first.Curved-Front Table

ACCESSORIES

Oval Mirror.................. . . .....................46

This beautiful mirror is simple to make by cutting a number of short pieces,gluing them together to form an octagon, and then routing it into an oval.

am

Mantel Clock....................... ......... ....... ....................56

At ßrst, your eye will be drawn to the handsome, molded top of this clock. But

the sound of the chimes tells you there's much more. Just take a look inside.

Clas sic Fr ames ...................... .....................6 6 Mante l Clock

Each of these frames can be made in a home workshop. And all you need to

make them is a table saw to cut coves and a router to shape the moldings.

Book Stand..................... ....................76

A clever shop-built ratchet and legs that are made in short, easy sections

make this project really stand out. Square legs make building it even easier.

CABINETS

Chairside Chest ...................... .. ....................86

Handsome from any angle and featuring dovetailed drawers, this is a perfect

chaitside companion. Add double-deep drawers without changing the look.

Jewelry Cabinet .................... .. ....................96

The L-shaped doors are just plywood panels trimmed with solid wood.

And the cabriole legs are easy to make with our step-by-step instructions.

Buffet Server...................... . .. ...................l10

The classic lines of this piece make it a beautiful part of any room. The drawer,

cabinet, and flip-open top offer plenty of storage and room while entertaining chairside chest

Sources ....................... . . . ......................126

Index ....................... . ........................127

Each table in this section offers a distinctive look for a

different place in your home. In addition, each one has

a variety of options for customization.The curved-front table is perfect for a hallway or entry-

way, and can be built with your choice of leg and top details.

The cabriole legs and hand-polished top of the coffee

table are easier to make than you might think. There's a way

to make a set of these Queen Anne-style tables in a week-

end. And the solid look of the bow-front end table can be

lightened by building it with a single drawer.

Curved-Front Table 8Shop Tip: Chip-Free Rabbets. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

ShopJig:SmallMiterBox.......................11ShopInfo:FlushTrimBit.......................13Technique:Kerf Bending........................15Shop Tip: Drawing a Partial Ellipse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

Shop Tip: Router Pilot Strip . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

Shop Tip: Trimming Inlay Flush . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

Designer's Notebook: Profiled Legs & Top . . . . . . . . . . 18

Coffee Table 20Shop Jig: Leg Clamping Jig ...................... 21

Woodworker's Notebook: Factory-made Legs. . . . . . . . . 22

Shop Tip: Quick and Easy Grid. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24

ShopTip:Backrouting .........................25

Technique: Staining End Grain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26

Designer's Notebook: Three Table Set. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28

Bow-Front End Table 30Technique: Routing Flutes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33

Technique: Routing Curves. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37

ShopTip:PullLayout..........................39Shop Jig: Rub Arm............................39Technique: Bow-Front Drawers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40

ShopTip:SandingBlock........................41Finishing: Hand-Rubbed Finish. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42

I Notebook: Si gle Drawer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43

Curved-FrontTableWith curved panels and delicate inlays in the legs, this table may look like a complex project.But all you need is your table saw to bend the wood and a router table to create the inlay effect.

here's something about this method is new to many woodworkers, and table top. For the contrasting wood

Curved-Front Table that brings it's all explained in the Technique trim, I chose walnut. To build the innerout the curiosity in any article on page 15. case that the aprons are bent around, I

craftsman. How are the curved aprons LEGs. The "inlaid" legs are another used ½" fir plywood.made? Is a thick piece used and then cut example of a simple solution to a diffi- OPTIONS. Although I really like the

into a curved shape? Or is it bent cult task - how do you inlay tapered look of the inlaid legs and the inlay on

somehow? And how about the legs? strips on all four faces of each leg? the top, this table can easily be builtYou'd think some kind of fancy jig was In what could almost be called a without these features. The Designer'sused to get the inlays so tight. reverse inlay technique, I wasted away Notebook on page 18 takes this idea a

Not at all. In fact, both of these seem- the wood from the leg to leave a raised bit farther by using a solid wood topingly complex woodworkingtasks have "inlay" in the center of each face. Then, with an edge profile. The result is sim-simple solutions. I glued thin strips of contrasting wood pler, but still quite elegant.

CURVED APRONS. The curved aprons along each corner where the wood had FINI5H.To finish the table, I wiped on

of the table are made from plywood, and been removed. It's that simple. one coat of a tung oil sealer and stain.have a series of saw kerfs cut in back to WOOD. I used solid cherry for the After it had dried, I then applied twoallow the wood to bend. Since this legs, and cherry plywood for the aprons coats of a satin finish top coat.

8 TABLES

EXPLODED VIEWOVERALL DIMENSIONS: 8. 1½

36%W x 14%D x 29¾HTABLE TOP BACK TRIM

TABLE TOPINLAY

N

FRONTTRIM

05PE

BACK STAFRT

BLOCKS G

TAPER

AP N 29

APRON LEG TOP INLAYINLAY

LEG CORE

LEG CORNER INLAYS

3

LEG BOTTOM INLAY

CUTTINGDIAGRAM

O DCo(a4)s

(16)11½ x111¡ _629

1

2x4 (1½ x 3½) - 36 (1.3 Bd.

C Leg Btm. Inlays (16) ½x ½ - 3 ¾ x 7- 60 WALNUT (2.9 Bd. Ft.)

D Leg Cnr inlays (16) % x ½ - 30 rough4

48A OHENEEEOF

E Beading (1) ¼ x ¼ -30 rough ¼" HARDBOARD FOR TEMPLATEF Case Top/Btm. (2) ½ ply - 12% x 33G Support Blocks (4) 1½ x 3 - 6

½" FIR PLYWOOD - 24 x 48 ¾" CHERRY PLYWOOD - 24 x 48

H Apron (1) ¾ ply - 4 x 48I Apron Inlay (1) 1/16

x ½ -48 rough

b r ay (1)y

3

/38

x 6h

N Front Trim (1) ½ x ¾ - 54

HARDWARE SUPPLIES(16) No. 8 x 1%" Fh woodscrews(4) No. 8 x 2

"Rh woodscrews

CURVED-FRONT TABLE 9

LEGS

MITER c].TOP OF LEG

Before starting on this table, you need GAUGE6

to decide if you want to add inlays and - / FENCEdecorative beading to the legs or not.

Either way, you'll start by cuttingfour leg cores (A), 1½" square and 29"long. (Refer to detail 'a' on page 9.)

Then if you don't want the inlays or EENDOF

beading, skip to the "TAPER LEG E^cH LEGLEG CORE DADO BLADE

CORES" paragraph below, and then (Wr" SQUARE

skip to page 12.29" LONG)

INLAYS. If you want inlaid legs, thereare some cuts to make on the leg cores.

USE TAPER JIG

Although the legs appear to be made TO TAPER LEGS

from walnut with cherry inlays, I thinkit's easier to start with cherry cores and FENCE

inlay walnut into the corners, tops, and

bottoms of the legs.TOP RABBET. After cutting the cores, .

cut a wide, shallow rabbet around theNOTE:

OEN

top of each leg for the leg top inlays (B) START TAPER BOTTOMAT SHOULDER OF EACH NOTE:

(Figs. 1 and 1a). To do this, I set up a LEG TILT MlTER GAUGE

dado blade in the table saw. sgir"AOG

N

TOR PLFEENCE

Using the rip fence as a stop and the

miter gauge to keep the workpiecesquare, make the first cut to establish a position the rip fence 3" from the out- To do this, first resaw the stock so

shoulder on each face of the leg. When side edge of your dado blade (Fig. 3). it's as thick as the rabbets are deepthe shoulders are cut, waste away the Note: Since the leg is now tapered, (½"). Then cut the pieces to fit the rab-

remaining stock to the end of the leg. you need to pivot the miter gauge so the bets and glue them in place (Fig. 4).TAPER LEG CORES. After the top rab- bottom end of the leg is flat against the Note: In the next step, you'll be cut-

bets are cut on all four legs, the next rip fence. Then, cut the rabbets as you ting away the corners of each leg, so

step is to taper the legs (refer to detail'a' did for the leg top inlay. this inlay only needs to extend to theon page 9). I did this on the table saw ToP AND BOTTOM INLAYS. With the shoulders of the rabbet (Fig. 5a).

using a taper jig set to begin the taper at legs rabbeted, walnut inlay pieces can CORNER INLAY. The next thing to dothe shoulder of the rabbet (Fig. 2). be cut to fit the rabbets. Start by cutting is to rout a rabbet the length of each leg

BOTTOM RABBET. Once a taper is cut enough stock for sixteen pieces of leg for each leg corner inlay (D) (Fig. 5). I

on each face of the legs, the rabbets can top inlay (B) and sixteen pieces of leg did this on the router table. (See thebe cut for the bottom inlays. To do this, bottom inlay (C). Shop Tip at left for a way to do this

without chipout.)Now cut sixteen leg corner inlays

out of walnut (D) to fit the rabbets

, , | ÛÛ áŸ (Figs. 5 and 5b). Then, glue the strips/ to the legs and sand them flush.

When using the routertable to cut the rabbetS LEG TOP LEG BOTTOM

for the corner inlays,INLAY INLAY

the top outside edgesof the rabbets areprone to chipout (seedetail 'a' in drawing). g||

To prevent this, I cuteach rabbet in twopasses. On the first 6

pass, I set the router la

table fence so only1/16" of the bit was rabbet.) This scoring For the second pass, 60

exposed (see detail 'a'). pass great\y reduces reposition the fence to BogOM

(The bit should be set the chance of chipout make the cut to full'

TO FIT

at the full height of the on the face of the leg. width and depth.RABBETS

10 TABLES

BEADING

There's one more set of trim to add - a• INLAY LEG CORNERthe decorative beading between the flat INLAY

section at the top of each leg and the LEG CORE

tapered lower section.ROUT DADOEs. The beading fits in

shallow dadoes cut near the top of eachleg (refer to Fig. 10). I routed thesedadoes on the router table (Fig. 6). You b.could use a table saw, but the chance of

FOR A TIGHT FIT,AW EREC

A Echipout is reduced if you use a router. PLANE A SLIGHT STARTSCHAMFER ONStart by positioning the fence on INSIDE CORNER NOTE:CUT INLAY TO FITyour router table 4½" from the inside / CORNER RABBET

edge of a ¼" straight bit (Fig. 6a).Thenuse a board to back up the leg, and routthe dadoes (Fig. 6).

CUT BEADING. Once the dadoes are a ¾2"-DEEP DADO• FOR BEADINGcut, the next step is to make the beading FENG 4½

(E). Since the beading is small (¼" x

¼"), it's safest to start with a wide pieceand then cut the beading off the edge.

First, rip a strip ¼" thick (Fig. 7).

Then use a1/s" roundover bit on the

router table to round over both edges(Fig. 8). Now, the beading can be cut off

the edge of the strip safely (Fig. 9).Position the fence to cut a ¼"-wide beadon the waste side of the blade.

MITER BEADING. After the strips for 'RIP ¾"-THICK

RO

the beading are cut, the fmal step is tO, RIP FEN STER FNOGR FENCE

ROUT ½" ROUNDOVERSmiter sixteen pieces to length to fit in ON TWO EDGES OF STRIP

the dadoes on the legs (Fig. 10). I made .-¾aa miter box that made it easier to cutand "fine-tune" these small pieces to

final length (see the Shop Jig below).Note: The beading should fit tight

without clamps, but if they're loose,½" ROUNDOVER BIT

tape them in place until the glue dries.

RIP BEADING OFF

RIP FENCEFASTRE SIDE

ow do you accu- workpiece. Next, lay 45° angle on one end.BEADING rately miter and out and cut a

45° kerf Then position the work-trim small pieces such with a hand saw. piece so it extends outas the beading for the You can also trim the angled end andCurved-Front Table? miters with this miter chisel, file, or sand the

I The method I use is to box. To do this, cut a piece for a perfect fit.

make a miniature miterBEADING box with a

45° kerf to scRÌiiARD OODguide a hand saw.

To make the miter ¼"-DEEP DADO

box, start with a scrap FOR BEADING

of 1½"-thick hardwood(see drawing). Then,cut or rout a centered ACNUGLE

N

TFER BEHAEDNING groove the length of the 45°KERF ONE END

GLUE IN DADo scrap to hold your FOR SAW


CURVED-FRONT CASE CASE TOP/BOTTOM. The next step is CLAMP HOLES. Next, a series of holesto cut and trim the case top and bottom are drilled in both the top and bottom

Once the legs are completed, work can (F) from ½"-thick fir plywood (Fig. 11). (F) to allow the aprons to be clamped inbegin on the curved case. This consists To do this, trace the outline of the tem- place later (Fig. 12). I used a 1½"-dia.of two pieces of plywood held together plate onto the plywood. Then, rough-cut bit, but this can vary depending on thewith four support blocks that will also the top and bottom to within ½" of the size and number of clamps you use.

help secure each leg (refer to Fig. 15). pencil line (Fig. 11a). SUPPORT BLOCKs. Once the clampTEMPLATE.I started work on the case Now the template can be used with a holes are drilled, work can begin on the

by making a template to cut the case top flush trim bit to trim the top and bottom support blocks (G). These blocks act as

and bottom. There are two reasons for pieces to finished shape. spacers between the case top andthis template. First, you only have to lay LAY OUT NOTCHES.Once the case top bottom, and also as screw blocks for the

out one ellipse -even though there are and bottom are trimmed to size, the legs (refer to Figs. 16 and 17).three pieces on the table with this shape next step is to lay out four notches along Make the support blocks by ripping(two case pieces and the finished top). the curved edge to accept the legs. You a piece of 2x4 to a width of 3". Then cut

Second, you can use the template only need to lay out the notches on one off four 6" lengths (Fig. 13).

along with a flush trim bit to cut iden- piece. They will be cut after the support Next, center a block under each of

tical pieces for the case. (For more blocks are added later. the middle leg notches that are laid outabout using a flush trim bit, see Shop To locate the two center notches, on the case. The other two blocks are

Info on the opposite page.) Later, the make marks on the back edge of the positioned flush with the back edge for

template is used to lay out the top and case top, 7" in from each end (Fig. 12). the rear leg notches (Fig. 13).add an inlay strip. Then use a square to transfer the posi- Now, trace the outline of the case

To make the template, start by laying tions up to the front edge. onto the blanks. Then cut the supportout the ellipse dimensions on a piece of Now, hold a leg on the mark and blocks to shape on the band saw.

¼"-thick hardboard. (For details about draw the thickness of the leg toward thedoing this, see the Shop Tip on page inside of the top (Fig.12). CASE ASSEMBLY16.) To allow for the back legs and the The notches for the back legs are a

inset back piece (J), lay out the center- little different. They're narrower than The first step in assembling the case is

line of the ellipse 1¾" from the back the front notches so the legs will stick screwing each of the support blocks to

edge of the hardboard (Fig. 11). Now out beyond the back of the case pieces the case bottom.draw the ellipse. Finally, cut the tem- (refer to Fig. 17a). This allows for the Since the aprons (added later) are

plate out and sand the edges smooth. case back that's added later. glued only to the plywood top andbottom, I set the support blocks back½" from the front edge of the case

FASTEN TEMPLATE $• bottom (Fig. 14). When each block is inALONW THD UOFLeS DLANK

F

SHN MH BACEg pOSitiOR, SCreW it in pÏâce.CARPET TAPE

1¾ EDGE OF PLYWOOD TOP. After all four blocks are screwedto the bottom, the top of the case can beattached. Screwing it to the blocks is

16½ easy - but getting the top and bottomaligned with each other is not so easy. If

the case top and bottom aren't squareand aligned to each other, the aprons

ROUGH-CUT won't be square to the table top whenPLYWOOD

TO WITHIN they're glued on later.½" OF TEMPLATE To attach the top of the case, start by

placing the case bottom assembly on

¾" DEEP ¾ USE LEGS TOL

NTEC F

1½"-DIAMETERCLAMP HOLES POSITION LEG

SQUARE TOFRONT EDGE

2½ NOTE: TRIM OFF WASTE SP RT

7LAY OUT NOTCH FOR BACK LEG AFTER MARKING OUTLINE

½" LESS THAN THICKNESS OF LEG

12 TABLES

SCREW SUPPORTPLOANCEFMCASE CASE BOTTOM

BLOCKS TO BOTTOM SURFACEOF CASE USE TRY SQUARE

TO ALIGN ENDSCENTER BLOCK OF CASE TOP

ON LEG LOCATION AND BOTTOM

NOTE:

BASCKE a M#8 x 1¼" Fh

BECF

RE

MNGA

WOODSCREW TOP TO BLOC

edge with the back edge resting on a flat .surface Œig. 15). Then, use a try CUT¾"-DEEP OAFCK DEE

square to align one end of the case top NFOORTCC

R

with the bottom. Once the top and çLELGUS EDN

bottom are aligned, clamp them scREW LEGS

together. Then, slide the square aroundIN PLACE

the curved case slowly, checking to

make sure the two pieces are square SUPPORT 8.with each other. BL K ,

- ,r FRONTR ERNLD

/s

If they're not square at each support LEG PASTAC SE

block, you can shift the top or the ' ,7 , WILL BE

bottom of the case to bring them into' ' FLUSH

square. Once the case pieces arealigned properly, screw the case top to

the support blocks.Note: Countersink the screws into turn the case upside down and place it After drilling the pilot holes in the

the plywood so the table top (added on a flat surface. Then insert a leg in a back of each leg, spread glue in thelater) will sit flat on the case top. notch and hold it in place. Next, push an notches and on the back of each leg.

CUT NOTCHES. After the case is awl or brad-point bit through the shank Then screw the legs in place, makingscrewed together, the notches can be hole so it leaves a mark on the leg. sure they're perpendicular to the case.cut 3/8" deep and to fit the legs (Fig. 12).

I cut these notches on the band sawby cutting the sides of the notch firstand then removing the waste with a

'e

series of cuts. You could also use a handsaw to cut the sides and a chisel to lush trim bits are used with a the same shaperemove the waste. I template to produce an exact as the template.

Whichever method you use, it's very copy of the template. To use a

important that the back of each notch A flush trim bit is a straight bit flush trim bit,(from top to bottom and from side to with a bearing on the end that aligns first trace theside) be parallel to the front edge of the with the cutting edges of the bit (see outline of thecase. If they aren't, this can cause a drawing below). template ontocouple of problems. By running the bearing along a the workpiece.

First, the legs can twist and won't be template, a workpiece can be cut to Then you canparallel to each other. Second, the cut the work-aprons that are added later won't butt TEMPLATE FLUSH piece to roughup against the legs squarely. So, check TRIM shape, stayingthe notches as you cut them. 1/8" outside the line.

ATTACH LEGs. Once all four notches EAARNG

Next, fasten the template to theare cut, the next step is to screw the legs workpiece with double-sided carpetto the case. To do this, start by drilling a tape or screws. Then adjust the3/16"-dia. shank hole through each sum

WOR PIECEheight of the bit so that the bearing

portblockŒigs.16and17).Centerthe rides on the edge of the templatehole in the notch.

'¯ROAUTLEER (see drawing). Now you can rout the

The next step is to locate a pilot hole workpiece to final shape.in each leg. To make it easier to do this,


APRONS & BACKCUT RABBET

The next step is to make the apron thatFOR INLAY

wraps around the front of the case.CUT BLANK. The apron (H) starts as a

strip of ¾"-thick plywood, 4" wide and48" long (Fig. 18). This blank will be cutinto three sections later.

Note: The face grain of the plywood4

b.should run the length of the strip.

Before cutting the apron into sec- 48

tions, I added a walnut inlay (I) strip. To GLUE INLAY INTO RABBET

do this, rout a ¼"-wide rabbet along the' BEFORE CUUTTHINLLAPRONS

LEAVE ½"

bottom edge (Fig. 18a). Then cut the PRON THEN KERF EACH SECTION. UNKERFED

inlay strip to fit the rabbet. After it'sglued in place, sand the inlay flush.

CUT SECTIONS.Now the apron can be 10° bevel on one end of each apron back, measure the inside distancecut into three sections. To determine (Fig. 19a). Then to get an idea of the between the rear legs (Fig. 21). Thenthe rough length of each section, mea- final length, curl the apron around the measure the height (thickness) of thesure between the legs along the curved edge of the case and make a mark case to determine the width of the back.case. Then, to allow for the thickness of where the unbeveled end meets the leg Finally, cut the back (J) to size.

the plywood and for trimming later, add (Fig. 19). Sneak up on the final length RABBETS. Since the legs protrude ½"1½" to each measurement. (I cut the by taking light, 10° bevel cuts until the from the back of the case, you need to

two end sections 14" long and the apron just fits between the legs. cut rabbets that leave ½"-thick tonguesmiddle section 18" long.) After fitting all three apron sections on the edges of the back (J). Cut the

KERFS. The next step is to kerf the between the legs, they can be glued and rabbets on the ends to match the widthaprons so they will follow the curve of clamped to the case (Fig. 20). I added of the rear support blocks (Fig. 21a).the case (refer to the opposite page). I clamping strips to protect the apron and The rabbets along the top and

spaced the kerfs ¼" apart (Fig. 18b). distribute the pressure evenly. bottom edges of the back (J) match the

To make it easier to get a tight fit BACK. The next step is to add the thickness of the plywood in the case

where the aprons meet the legs, cut a back. To determine the length of the (½"). Finally, glue the back to the case.

C-CLAMPS ORADJUSTABLE

CLAMPS

SLIGHTBEVELS

sy ONFRONTEDGES

ALLOWAPRONS TO

TEST FIT APRON FIT TIGHTSECTION AND AGAINST LEG Ys"-THICK

TRIM TO FITSTRIPS UNDER CLAMPS HELPDISTRIBUTE PRESSURE EVENLY

CUT RABBETSTO FIT

THICKNESSOF PLYWOOD

CASETOP ANDBO

CUT END

4RABBETS TO

BACK T THICKNESS(¾"-THICK PLYWOOD) OF SUPPORT

BLOCKS

14 TABLES

2 | | •. . . . . . . . . . Kerf Sending

erf bending is an easy way to bend to save money and the trouble of

wood. It's just a matter of cutting a veneering, I chose cherry plywood forseries of grooves (kerfs) to relieve the the Curved-FrontTable.back of the workpiece so that it will flex. One reason plywood works well has //

to do with the ply just beneath the faceKERF DEPTH veneer (Fig. 1). When kerfing plywood, fi,

you barely score this second ply. TheWhen you cut kerfs for bending, you web that remains consists of the thickercut almost all the way through the work- second ply and the thin face veneer.piece (see photo and Fig. 1). By kerfing plywood across the face

PLYWOOD. Kerf bending works on grain, the kerf runs with the grain of thesolid wood and even hardboard (which second ply (Fig. 2). The face veneercan then be covered with veneer). But holds it together and allows it to flex.

Once it's kerfed, hardwood plywood

KERF RIBtypically bends more easily than soft- sanding as soon as all the flats disap-wood (fir) plywood. The main reason is pear - don't over-sand. Since facethat the face veneer on hardwood ply- veneers on hardwood plywood may bewood is thinner, so it's more flexible. 1/s2" thick or less, it's very easy to sand

SEæYND right through it (Fig. 3).SPACING

FACE RNISHINCaVENEER

Tll€ Spacing between kerfs not only willRIB GIVHE TREEN TH WEB affect the radius that you can bend, but Any remaining flat areas will become

also how smooth the bent piece will apparent when you apply a finish. So first,look. The reason is the "flats" that form I apply a light coat of sealer to the kerf-

KERFED PLYWOOD over the ribs between the kerfs (Fig. 3). bent piece and examine it closely. To doAs a general rule, the closer the this, I use a light at a low angle to the sur-

kerfs are together, the tighter the face of the piece, checking once more forFA E LNDKELEPs radius you can bend. But more impor- flats before applying the final coats.

FROM tant, closely spaced kerfs provide a I also recommend a satin finishCRACKING

smooth curve. In most cases, I space rather than a high gloss. The reason forIF KERFS ARE CUT the kerfs about ¼" to ¾" apart. this is if there are any flats (even small

sE SRAA NE

I

DN

If you cut the kerfs close together, ones), they'll show up more with a glossçELCEXNEDAS

LY you may still experience flats to some finish than with a satin or matte finish.degree - even if you can't see them

FACE PLY easily. But they may become noticeable KERFING JiGwhen you apply a finish.

SANDING. Small flats can be removed A simple indexing jig will help you cutSECOND PLY easily by sanding. But the wider the flat uniformly spaced kerfs.

is, the more sanding you'll have to do. To make the jig, drive a No. 4 screwTo allow the most control, I use a hard- near the bottom edge of an auxiliary

IF KERFS ARE CUTwood sanding block (not a power fence fastened to your saw's miter

A ROSES HNED

P

IN sander). Take smooth, gradual strokes gauge. Then cut off the head (Fig. 4).SECOND PLY WON'T BE ÍOllowing the contour, and constantly As each kerf is cut, just lift the board

VERY FLEXIBLE check the surface of the work. Stop and place the kerf over the screw.

rLAT

FLAT- I i FLAT

CUT HEAD OFF #4 SCREWAND USE AS INDEX PIN ON

AUXILIARY FENCE


ÎASLE TÛŸ ALK TEMPLATE FLUSH WITHCK EDGE OF PLYWOOD '

sg. PILOT I

The last step is to add the table top. I 1½STE

made the top out of cherry plywood PAGE 17)

and covered the edges with strips of·

\

'walnut. For an accent, I also added aninlay strip of walnut just inside theperimeter of the top.

TOP BLANK. Start work on the tabletop (K) by cutting a blank of ¾"-thick s/4" TEMPLATE ROS SECTIONplywood to rough size (mine was about PLYWOOD

FOR TOP

15" x 38") (Fig. 22). This blank is then -cut into a half-oval shape so it will over-hang the case by 1½" on each side and TEMPLATE USE GUIDE BUSHING

along the front edge. ON R UTR EROUT sg., ..

To do this, you could make a new 3/16" DEEP FOR lÑLAY U NE STR HT.

template that's 1½" larger than the oneused for making the case. But there's an

easier way -just enlarge the size of theoriginal template onto the plywoodblank by using a compass (Fig. 22). c,Once the layout lines are drawn, rough ¼ ½

cut the top ½" outside of the pencil line. TEMPLATEcnoss SECTION

That's great for getting the top to TABLE TOP

rough shape. But how do you use a

router to trim the top to final shapewithout a new template? Simple. Use a CUT GROOVE FOR INLAY. Once you've guide bushing and a

1/s" straight bit in

pilot strip to position the bit the correct trimmed the top, the next step is to cut a the router to rout a ¾e"-deep groove in

distance from the template (Fig. 22a). groove for a top inlay strip (Fig. 28). To the top (Fig. 23a).(For more on this, see the Shop Tip at do this, leave the template fastened to INLAY. After routing the groove, an

the bottom of page 17.) the top (K). But this time, mount a ¾" inlay strip (L) of walnut can be cut to fit.

Drawing a partial ellipse onto a Now, draw a perpendicular line from N2, and D. Then loop a piece of thinhardboard template isn't diffi- the centerpoint (B). Make it the same wire (I used 32 gauge) tightly aroundcult. All it takes to lay it out is a length as the width of the table top all three nails and twist the ends

pencil, a piece of thin wire and a (11"). Mark the top end of this line D. together. (Don't use string -itcouple of nails. Next, locate two nail points. To do stretches too much.)

Start by drawing a line 1¾" this, use a ruler or compass to find the Finally, to draw the ellipse, removefrom one edge of the hard- distance from A to B (or B to C, which the nail at D and replace it with a

board, and as long as the length should be the same). Then measure this pencil point. Keeping the wire taut,of the table top template (33") distance from point D to line AB, and draw an arc from D to A and from D

(Fig. 1). Mark one end of the also to line BC (Fig. 2). These are your to C (Fig. 3).

line A, and the other end C. nail points. Mark them N1 and N2. Note: To keep the wire fromNow find the centerpoint and So much for the hard part. The next sliding, notch the pencil tip aboutmark it B. step is to drive a nail or brad into N1, ½" from the end (Fig. 3a).

REPLACE NAIL AT (DWITH PENCIL POIAND DRAWARCS

LENGTH NEEDED MEASURE FROM (A) TO (B)FOR TEMPLATE (33") WITH RULER OR COMPASS

16 TABLES

TOP INLAY

T MSE TAPE

TO HOLD TR1M FRONTIN PLACE T M

FIRST:GLUE INLAY SECOND: THIRD•

INTO GROOVE GLUE TRIM GLUE TRIM TÓPAD AND TRIM FLUSH

EDGE OFFRONTŒE E

STRAlGHT BIT

To trim inlay

wilNLAY STRIP

TRIM. The next step is to glue on thechipout, fasten a pair of pads trim strips that hide the plies on theonto the router base with edges of the top. I glued on the backcarpet tape so the bit strad- trim (M) first (Fig. 25). A few strips of

dles the inlay. Then adjust a tape will help hold the strip in placestraight bit so it almost con- (Fig. 26). When the glue is dry, cut thetacts the table top. After trim flush with the ends of the top. ovEERUHAALNG

routing, sand the inlay flush. Then, the front trim (N) can be glued on ON BDOSTH

to overlap the ends of the back trim(Figs. 26 and 27). Again, trim it flush

At the same time, I cut the strips for the after the glue dries.back trim (M) and front trim (N) since ATTACH TOP. Now the top can bethey're all the same thickness (½"). attached to the case. Since both the top

Rip the top inlay to ¼" wide and glue and the case are made from plywood o"FACOPEDR

it into the groove (Fig. 24). (which won't expand or contract withc

oHF SHE

Note: To make it easier to glue the changes in humidity), I simply gluedinlay in place, you may want to plane a the top to the case.slight bevel on each face of the inlay. When doing this, position the top so FINISH. After attaching the top, I

When the glue dries, trim the inlay the back trim (M) is flush with the back sanded the entire table and then wipedflush with the top. The Shop Tip above (J), and so that the top (K) overhangs on one coat of an oil/urethane finish. I

shows a trick for trimming most of the an equal amount on both ends (Fig. 27). added two coats of a satin top coat oncewaste using a router. Then clamp the top in place. the oil had dried. -

$¾OFTIP.......................KouterF//otSengWhen it came time to plate. And that makes the template in place and cut- (see drawing). Try not tomake the top for the top the same shape as the ting the workpiece slightly "rock" the router alongCurved-Front Table, there template, but larger. oversize (refer to Fig. 22 the template as you trim.was a problem. I wanted To make the pilot strip, on opposite page). Then Rocking will increase thethe top to have the exact cut a small scrap of stock set the router on the distance between thesame elliptical shape as 1½" wide and 5" long. workpiece so the edge of table top and the bit.the case -only larger. The strip should be the the pilot strip rides against Clean up any unevenness

The best solution was to same thickness as the tem- the edge of the template with a final pass.find a way to use the same plate (½" in my case).template that I made for Then fasten the strip tothe case parts. the router base using a.

The technique I came up double-sided carpet tape. PILOT

with is to tape a strip of Position the strip so it just STRIP

wood to the base of the touches the edge of the TEMPLATE

router (see drawing). This straight bit you use forpilot strip keeps the router trimming (see drawing). R¶EER

bit a uniform distance Now, to use the pilot ToP

from the edge of the tem- strip, start by taping the


Even though this table is built withoutinlays, it still has plenty of details. The tapered legs have coveaccents, beads are added below the aprons, and the solid wood top features a classic edge profile.

START OFTAPER

PROFILED LEGS & TOP

CONSTRUCT NN TES: LEG DETAIL

a Construction of this table is largely a Instead of cutting rabbets or dadoes in a Then attach a blank to the top of thethe same as that for the regular Curved- the legs, a ½" cove is routed around case with carpet tape so that the backFront Table. Begin by cutting the legs each one (Fig. 1 and Leg Detail above). edge of the blank is aligned with theto width and length (see Leg Detail a With the legs completed, the case back inside corners of two legs (Fig. 3).above). Then taper all four sides. pieces can be cut to size and the case a Turn the table upside down. Then

assembled the same way as the regular transfer the locations of the edges of the. . table. Then the legs can be attached. legs onto the blank (Fig. 4).

a Next, cut the aprons to width and kerf a Next, use a compass to scribe theCHANGED PART them to wrap around the table's front. curve of the top onto the blank (Fig. 5).K Table Top (1) ¾ x 14½ - 36½ Note: Since they don'treceive an inlay, Repeat this process with the twoNEW PARTS don'trabbet the edges of the aprons. remaining bead blanks.O End Apron Beads (2) ½ x 3½ - 14 rgh.

m Glue the aprons in place, then cut the a Now the beading can be cut to shape.P Front Apron Bead (1) ¼ x 3½ - 20 rgh.

back (J) to size and glue it to the case. I used a bevel gauge to transfer the

Note: Do not need parts B, C, D, E, I, L, angle of the layout line from the blank to

M, N. BEADING my table saw's miter gauge. Then I

trimmed the ends of each blank.HARDWARE SUPPLIES n This table has heading (0, P) below Note: I cut the blanks a little wide of(6) No. 8 x 1" Fh woodscrews the aprons. Start by cutting two blanks the marks so I could sneak up to the

from ¼" stock (Fig. 2). final width, testing the fit between the

18 TABLES

legs until I had a uniform, ¼" revealalong the front of the table.m The curved fronts can be trimmed tO 4¾ ]rough shape on the band saw. Thensand up to the lines.- The curved edge of each apron bead(0, P) is rounded over using a

ik"roundover bit mounted in the routertable (Fig. 6). Routing the first side issimple. But when making the pass onthe opposite face, there isn't a flat edgefor the bearing to ride on. To remedythis, align the router table fence withthe bearing on the bit·

USE ¼"-THICK STOCKa Before gluing the beading in place,

14 i LANK OF LE05the bottom of the case needs to be cutaway so you can reach in later to screw NOTE: 3½

the top on (Fig. 7). I used a jig saw to E E LNEG

saw between the clamp holes, then LIENNE T CTEND APRON BEAD

sanded the edges smooth. To keep the (TWO PIECES)

back (J) rigid, leave a 1"-wide strip of - 20 -the case bottom along the back edge. FASTEN BEAD BLANK TO

m Now you can glue the beading (0, P) 3V2 CASE WTRH DOUAPLE-SIDED

in place below the aprons (Fig. 8). TheFRONT APRON BEADends of the beads should fit snug

against the legs.

TABLE TOP

a With the case completed, work canbegin on the table top (K). Start bygluing up a solid wood blank to a roughsize of 14½" x 36½".- Once the blank is dry, the templateused to shape the case top and bottom is

needed to lay out the shape of the table SECOND: EXTENDLINE TO EDGE

top (K) (refer to Fig. 22 on page 16). OF BLANKm Before cutting the top to shape, fastena piece of ¼" hardboard to the bottomedge using double-sided carpet tape.(After this assembly is cut to shape, the ONOCUUR EDUNEDOOF BEE

DO OW

hardboard will provide a wider surface #8 x 1" Fh WOODSCREWS

for the router bit bearing when a profile REFER TO PAGE 25 TO

is cut on the top edge of the table top.) APRON BEADROUT TABLE TOP PROFILE

a Now you can cut the table top and thehardboard to shape on the band saw.- Next, a profile is routed on the curvededge of the table top (Fig. 8). (The back SULOP RT

edge is left square.) To avoid chipoutwhere the end grain transitions intoedge grain, refer to the "PROFILE" sec- APRON

tion and the Shop Tip on page 25.m Once the profile is completed, the topcan be fastened to the case. Remove thehardboard, then place the table top onthe case. There should be an equalamount of overhang on each side andthe back of the top should be flush with '

^gPERAODN

the back of the case (Fig. 8). To allOW NOTE: CASE BOTTOMCUT AWAY CASE WITH CENTERthe top to expand and contract, drill sorrOM TO ALLOW SECTION CUT OUT

oversized shank holes through the AŒESLSEFOORSCOREW G

case, then screw the top in place.


CoffeeTableSimply elegant and easier to build than you might think, this table is sure to become an heirloom.You can make the cabriole legs with just a band saw and some hand tools, or buy them ready-made.

his mahogany Coffee Table is in APRONS. The aprons that tie the legs JOINERY. Whichever version youthe elegant Queen Anne style. It together each have a scallop along the choose to build, the aprons are fastenedfeatures graceful cabriole legs, bottom edge. One template is all you to the legs with traditional mortise and

scalloped aprons around the base, and need to lay out the profiles on both the tenon joints. And since the table top is a

an oval top with a hand-rubbed finish. front and side aprons before cutting solid wood panel, Z-shaped fastenersBut don't assume that any of those fea- them on the band saw. secure it to the aprons while allowingtures demand a lot of highly specialized PRE-MADE LEGS. If you'd rather buy the top to expand and contract.skills or tools. They don't. legs than build them, a variety of pre- FINISH. Even if you purchased legs

CABRIOLE LEGs. The legs are the made legs are available (see page 126 for the table, you can still show off a bitmost involved part of this table. But for sources). They allow you to change of handwork. The high gloss finish on

even so, it takes only three cuts on the the look of the table easily, plus it the table top is the result of hand rub-band saw to give you a roughed-out leg. speeds up construction considerably. In bing. Here again, no special skills are

Then, with some handwork, you can fact, the Designer's Notebook on page needed to handle this job. You can

bring it to final shape easily. To walk you 28 offers a set of three tables with a sim- easily buff a mirror-like finish on thethrough making them, there's a step-by- pler look. By using pre-made legs, the table top by following the steps in thestep article on page 106. entire set can be built in just a few days. Finishing article on page 42.

20 TABLES

EXPLODED VIEWOVERALL DIMENSIONS:30W x 48L x 18H

TABLE TOP

SIDE

BACK APRONAPRON

WOODA Cabriole Legs (4) 3 x 3

- 17%B Transition Blocks (8) 2½ x 2½ - 1½C Side Aprons (2) ¾ x 4 - 14

D Fr/BackAprons(2) ¾x4-28

SIDEFRONT APRON E Table Top (1) ¾ x 30 -48

APRON HARDWARE 5UPPLIESTRANSITION NOTE: TO BUILD (6) No. 8 x ¥a" Rh woodscrews

BLOCK CABRIOLE LEGS. (6) Z-shaped table top fastenersSEE PAGE 106

LEGS

CUTTING DIAGRAM¾ x 7¼ - 96 (2 Boards @ 4.8 Bd. Ft.)

3 x 3 -22 TURNING SQUARE (4 @ 1.4 Bd. Ft. Each)

¾ x 5½ - 96 (3.7 Bd. Ft.)¾ x 7¼ - 48 2.4 Bd. Ft.)

Aftercutting cabriole legs to rough riage bolt and wing nut. Once the jaw is

shape on the band saw, they still set where you need it, tighten the wingneed to be filed and sanded to their final nut to keep the tailstock from turning.shape. To do this, you need a way to Keeping the headstock from moving ,hold the leg steady that leaves room to is even easier. Just cut a notch in one L .

work around it. My solution was a jig edge to fit the jaw of the clamp (Fig. 1).

that attaches to a pipe clamp. As the clamp is tightened, both theThe jig pieces are 8" lengths of 2x4 headstock and tailstock tend to tilt

stock with a hole bored through one back. To compensate for this, I planed a -

end of each piece for the pipe (Fig. 1). slight taper on the inside edge of eachTo keep the tailstock from swiveling, piece. Finally, I added a piece of self-

I cut a kerf along the bottom edge using adhesive sandpaper to the inside face of

a band saw (Fig. 2). Then I added a car- each jaw to give it a better grip.

HEADSTOCK ADHESIVE-BACKEDSANDPAPER

TAILSTOCKCUT DIA.

HOLE FOR TAILSTOCK¾" PIPE 8

HEADSTOCK-- -

BAND SAW PLANE1¾ TAPERS ON

3½ INSIDE FACESNUT &'BOLT

COFFEE TABLE 21

CUT GROOVES INTOP EDGES OF APRONS

DADO BLADE PART ALLBURIED IN AUX. FENCE

and back aprons (D). These pieces areall the same width and each will have a 2½

The base of the table consists of the scalloped profile cut on its bottom edge 4

cabriole legs at each corner and the later (refer to Fig. 3).aprons that tie them together. Before cutting the decorative pro¯ - 14

CABRIOLE LEGs. The first thing you files, I cut the tenons on the aprons to fit 4 26½

need to do is to make the legs (A). To do the mortises in the legs (Fig. 1)·

this, refer to the Technique article on To do this, I secured a plywood auxil-page 106. Or you can buy legs already iary fence to my table saw's rip fence. 28 i

made (see page 126 for sources). If you Then I used a dado blade to cut theprefer to use pre-made legs, see the tenons, centering each one on the thick-Woodworker's Notebook below. ness of the apron (Fig. 1a). hold the Z-shaped fasteners used later

APRONS. When the legs are com- Then, after the tenons had been cut, to secure the table top to the base. Thisplete, the next step is to connect them I cut a groove on the top inside face of groove is simply a ½"-deep saw kerfwith ¾"-thick side aprons (C) and front each apron (Fig. 2). These grooves that runs the length of the apron.

W©©ÐW©2KR'S • 1Ready-made legs save you time and effort, especially with this simple block to help drill the mortises.

One option that will make the Coffee keep the leg square, I made a spacerTable and the Jewelry Cabinet (pages block to cradle it.

96-109) easier to build is to purchase It's made from two pieces of 1½"-the legs instead of making them (see thick stock glued together to form an L-

photo at right). (For sources, see page shaped block (see drawing). It holds126.) But even pre-made legs will need the cabriole leg up off the table and outmortises drilled in the corner posts to from the fence (see photo below).hold the stretchers and rails. This way, the block keeps the face of

The shape of a cabriole leg will not the corner post square to the bit. And it

allow the post to sit flat on the drill press also keeps the leg and fence aligned so

table when drilling mor tise holes. So to the mor tises are drilled in a straight line.

22 TABLES

SCALLOPED PROFILES. Now theaprons are ready for their decorative a

profiles. The nice thing is, the profile is

the same on both the side aprons and

the front/back aprons, so only one tem- PROFILE

plate is needed to lay out both. TEMPLATE

To create this template, you can lay it

out on a sheet of paper using the simple |EOEOP

grid and pattern shown below. Or to y ESLAOFE ALIGN PROFILE WITH

make things easier, you can buy a set of AND APRON TRANSITION BLOCK

full-sized patterns from Woodsmith FLUSH DFR WE PHH LVES

Project Supplies. This includes pat-

terns for the cabriole legs, aprons, and

top (see page 126 for information). TRIM TEMPLATETO LAY OUT PROFILE

With the template complete, I began ON SIDE RAILS

laying out the profile on the front and

back aprons (Fig. 4). To do this, thebase will need to be dry-assembled first.That's because the curve on the apronmust start where the transition block on

the leg ends (Fig. Ja). (It's also impor-tant to keep the top edges of the tem- ADJUST CENTER POINT,

plate and apron flush.) IF NECESSARY

Draw the profile onto the apron, thenflip the template over and draw it again,starting from the other end. The lines SECOND: CUT OUT

should meet in a shallow curve at thecURVE OF PROFILE

center of the apron (Fig. 3). a.The profile on the side aprons dupli- I, IF

E

cates part of the profile on the FIRST

front/back aprons (Fig. 5). So I simplytrimmed off the template. As with thefront/back aprons, the curve starts at

the transition block, so you may need to>

adjust the centerpoint of the profile. FIRSE CUT OUT POINT OFPROFILE (SEE DETAIL a)

After the profiles are laid out, thescalloped edges can be cut. The impor-tant thing here is to get a clean, sharp Finally, I glued and clamped the base

corner at the "point" of the profile. To together. After the glue dried, I sanded

do this, I started by cutting the point of the scalloped edges smooth, makingeach profile (Fig. 6a). Then I cut from sure the joint lines between the transi-

the ends along the curves to the point to tion blocks on the legs and the apronsremove the waste (Fig. 6). A narrow were flush (Fig. 7). A dowel wrapped

(½") blade in the band saw makes it with sandpaper makes a good sanding SAN

easy to cut clean curves. block for this curved surface.

NOTE:

COFFEE TABLE 23

With the base complete, I set about to

build the top. This is pretty simple,really. The top is just a glued-upmahogany panel cut in an oval shape.

PAPER PATTERN. The first thing to dois to create a paper pattern for the top(see pattern at right). Then I created a

hardboard template from this patternand used the template as a guide whencutting and routing.

The oval shape of this table isn't a

true ellipse. So it has to be drawn "free-hand." The Shop Tip below shows you a

way to do this.Note: There's no need to make a full ¼" HARDBOARD

pattern; a quarter pattern will do. And if(30" x 48")

• FLIP QUARTER PATTERN

you don't want to make your own, a full- TO MAKE TEMPLATE

sized quarter pattern is available. Seepage 126 for information.

HARDBOARD TEMPLATE. With thepaper quarter pattern complete, I usedit to make a full-sized template out of

¼"-thick hardboard (Fig. 8). There area couple of advantages to creating a TEMPLATE

hardboard template for this project.For one thing, if you happen to make

a mistake when cutting or sanding thetemplate, it's no big deal. Hardboard is

ITA E

cheap compared to mahogany. And it's BLANK

much easier to shape and sand a ¼"-thick hardboard template than a panelmade from ¾"-thick solid wood.

Also, I was able to use the templateSTAY

to guide the router bits as I shaped the 3o½s" FROM

TEMPLATEedge (refer to Figs. 10 and 11)· CARPET-TAPE

To make the template, I started by TEMPLATE TOBOTTOM OF PANEL

cutting an oversized blank (30" x 48")

Here's a quick way to draw freehand "hook" a pencil on the end of the With the grid drawn, plot the

curves by first creating a rough grid. tape (left and center photos). A points of the desired curve on the

To make the grid, just hold a tape finger serves as a guide along the grid. Then just connect the dotsmeasure firmly with one hand and edges of the bench. with a smooth line (right photo).

24 TABLES

and drawing centerlines on the top to e

create "cross hairs" (Fig. 8). Next, I a.drew the pattern on the blank, flipping it

around the centerlines until the layoutwas complete (Fig. Ba).

When cutting out the template, I

used a jig saw with a fine-tooth blade,'

.

staying 1/16" from the line. Then I

sanded up to the line.OVERSIZED PANEL. Now that the tem- ROUT TOP

FLUSH WITH FLUSH TRIM BITplate is complete, the next step is to TEMPLATEglue up a ¾"-thick blank for the top (E).This blank starts out the same size as

the template blank (30" x 48").When the glue is dry, plane and sand a

ROUND OVERthe panel flat. Then use carpet tape to'

BOTTOM EDGE

attach the hardboard template to the WITH SANDPAPER

bottom face of the panel (Fig. 9).

TRIM FLUSH. Like the template, I cutthe panel to rough size using the jig saw.But this time, to get the panel flush with

NOTE:the template, I used a flush trim bit in ROUT PROFILE

the router (Figs. 10 and 10a).IN TWO PASSES

However, when routing the edge of, AUXILIARY BASE FOR LARGER BIT

the table top, you re likely to run intosome chipout on the end grain. Thesolution is to backrout the edge. This Note: This bit didn't fit the opening see the Finishing article on pages 26-means taking a number of light passes in my router base, so I made an auxil- 27.) Then I applied a couple of coats of

moving the router clockwise around the iary base from hardboard (Fig. 11). varnish to all the pieces. The table toptable top (see the Shop Tip below). This profile also requires back- received a third coat. This way, there's a

Safety Note: When backrouting, routing. In this case, the router will be thicker film of finish so you can "rubhave the workpiece clamped securely easier to control if you start with only a out" the table top to a high gloss. (Referto the bench, take very light cuts and small portion of the bit exposed and to the Finishing article on page 42.)keep your arms tucked into your body then lower it slightly between passes. When the finish is done, attach thefor better control of the router. Once the profile was complete, I table top to the base (Fig. 12). -

PROFILE. Next, I routed a profile hand sanded the bottom lightly toalong the top edge of the table (Figs. 11 remove the sharp edge (Fig. 11b).and 11a). I chose a special bit designed Before attaching the table top to thespecially for table top edges. (For base, I applied the stain to everything.sources of this bit, see page 126.) (For some tips on staining end grain,

Øsokrou nga. Backrouting can prevent

Z-SHAPED FASTENER chipout where edge graintransitions into end grain.The rotation of the bit willwant to pull the routeralong, so keep a firm, bracedgrip and take light passes.

I

OUTING

b TOP REMOVES. MATERIAL

FROM FRONTEDGE OF

CUT. SINCEBACK EDGE 15

ALREADYCUT AWAY,

WOOD CAN'TSPLINTER

DIRECTION OFBIT ROTATION

COFFEE TABLE 25

here's one finishing problem thatdoesn't get a whole lot of attention:

end grain. Often after staining, the endgrain on a workpiece will look muchdarker than the face grain.

Maybe the reason why this problem ce adoesn't get much attention is that wood-workers have just learned to "live withit." Still, there are a few steps you cantake that will prevent this from hap-pening. But it helps to know why it hap-pens in the first place.

OPEN PORES. End grain naturallylooks a little different than face grain,and it also acts differently. The reasonfor this is that the end of a board is madeup of open pores that work like a bunchof drinking straws. Whatever is put onthe surface of the board won't penetratevery quickly. But any liquid substance Because the open pores exposed on the Getting the end grain to match the(like glue or stain) applied to the pores end grain absorb more stain than the rest of the project is a matter of stoppingof the end grain will be pulled deeper face grain on the surface or sides of the the stain from penetrating so deeply.into the wood. panel, the color at the end of the panel That way, all surfaces end up with about

STAIN. Applying a stain to a hard- often appears darker - not what you the same amount of stain. Fortunately,wood panel presents special problems. want in a piece like the Coffee Table. there are a number of ways to do this.

When you're staining a project with a lot grain or end grain (see photos below). I've used some stains that were the con-of exposed end grain, the easiest way to The result is that the end grain and the sistency of a thick cream. Others wereget a consistent color is to use a gel face grain end up with an even, consis- closer to being a paste.stain. A gel stain is applied like any tent color. Remember, what you want is a stainother stain - it's just a little thicker. So You might think that gel stains are all that's not going to seep into the endinstead of spreading over the surface of alike; a magic formula that some fin- grain. So when choosing a gel stain, justa workpiece, a gel stain will just sit ishing expert concocted. But while all keep in mind that a thick stain will tendthere, like a glob of pudding. gel stains are definitely thicker than to penetrate less and give you a more

LIMITED PENETRATION.Because a gel regular liquid stains, they're not all the even color.stain is thick, it won't penetrate very same. When it comes to end grain, the DRAWBACKs. Of course, gel stainsdeep into the wood, whether it's face biggest difference is their thickness. aren't the answer in every situation.

There are times when I want the stain to

penetrate as deeply as possible. When I

have a piece of figured wood, like bird'seye maple, I'm not going to use a gelstain because I want to highlight thecontrasting figures of the wood. The gelstain isn't necessarily going to "hide"

'

the grain. But it will even out the colormore than I want it to.

The other time I don't use a gel stainis when I can't find the exact color I

want. Here, I usually end up choosing a

traditional (liquid) oil or water-base.. stain. As you can guess, this presents a

Apply gel with a brush. A gel stain is Wipe off excess. After it's wiped off, challenge with the little "straws" in thejust a thick stain. Its thickness limits the you can see that the limited penetration end grain. But there are a couple of

amount it penetrates, so I usually work it of a gel stain means the end grain is the ways to address this problem (see theinto the pores with a brush. same color as the face grain. opposite page).

26

When I work with a traditional liquidstain, I usually get a more even color if I

do a little extra sanding on the end grain- to 600 grit instead of 220 (see photosat right). This works because you'reburnishing the end grain. The poreopenings are being polished so they'resmaller and don't soak in as much stain.

CURVED SURFACEs. With the CoffeeTable on page 20, the stain with the Sanded to same grit. When staining Sanded to finer grit. One solution to

color I liked happened to be atraditional end grain, a regular stain will soak deep evening out the end grain is to sand it

oil-based liquid stain.The problem was into the pores of the wood, darkening finer than the rest of the board. Here, I

the table was curved. In fact, this table the ends much more than the face. sanded the end grain to 600-grit.threw me more than one curve.

For one thing, the cabriole legs have with the face grain, I'd use a wood con- ends. Even with conditioner applied to

end grain at the top of the knees and the ditioner (see below). the face grain, this seepage would causefeet. So there's no "hard" corner where But the oval top was a different uneven staining. I didn't want lightthe end grain starts and the edge grain matter. A conditioner applied to just the streaks around the edge of the table, so

stops. So in this case, instead of sanding end grain on the narrow molded edge I went back to the sanding solution andfiner, and trying to blend the end grain would seep into the face grain from the sanded the whole edge to 600-grit.

CONDITIONERS& SEALERSWhat can be a little confusing about end dark blotches ongrain is that it isn't just limited to the the face of theends of a board. It can show up on the board (see the leftfaces of some boards, too. half of the board in

This is especially true of woods like the photo). Butpine, cherry, and maple that tend to there are stepshave knots or wild, wavy grain. When you can takethese boards are surfaced, you often before applying a

end up with a small patch of end grain stain to avoid this.on the face of the board (see drawing). CONDITIONERS. One solution is to wick up more conditioner, allowing less

BLOTCHING.When you apply a stain, brush on a wood conditioner. This is an stain to penetrate. The face grain areasthese areas of end grain can turn into oil-based product applied immediately absorb less conditioner so about the

before the stain. It is used mainly to same amount of stain as usual is

SURFACE €V€n Out stain absorption on the sur- absorbed there.END GRAIN

ÍRCOS of softwoods that tend to blotch, Just brush a heavy coat of condi-like pine or fir. The result is a more even tioner on the entire leg. After letting it

color on the piece (see the right half of set a few minutes, wipe off any excessthe board above). and apply the stain.

In some cases, wood conditioner can SEALERS. Another way to prevent thealso be used before staining the end end grain from soaking up too much

SWIRLING grain of hardwood. This is especially stain is to apply a sealer (or a wash coat)GRAIN CAN helpful in getting an even color on the before staining. This can be a thinned-EXPOSE STAIN-ABSORBING END cabriole legs, since there is no sharp down coat of finish or a one-pound cut of

RRA CON A BOARD'S corner on these pieces to separate end shellac. It is brushed on and allowed to

grain from face grain. The end grain will dry before applying the stain.

TOP COATSWhen it's time to apply a clear top coat add an amber tint to the wood anyway. lot quicker. That's because the pores in(such as an oil or varnish) over the But I've never thought this was objec- the end grain are wicking the finishstain, end grain isn't nearly as much of a tionable, so Ihaven't gone to the trouble away from the surface. Since the idea is

problem. The top coat penetrates just as of sanding any liner. to get an even coat of finish on the topdeep, and in fact, you may notice that EXTRA COAT. About the only thing surface of the workpiece, I sometimesthe end grain gets slightly darker. you will notice about putting a clear end up applying an extra coat or two to

That's because oil and varnish tend to finish on end grain is that it dries out a build up the finish on the ends.

COFFEETABLE 27

DESIGNER%N • B • • KBy buying pre-made legs, you can put together an entire set of classic tables in a weekend.

The simplified lines make it easy to cut the pieces and assemble this handsome set in very little time.

CONSTRUCTIONNOTES:m This set of tables uses pre-madecabriole legs (Fig. 1). These legs areavailable from a number of mail-ordersources (see page 126). The lengths of

the legs I used for each table are givenin the Materials List below. Dependingon the supplier, the lengths may beslightly different, but you should beable to find legs that are close to thelengths listed.e Once you have the legs, constructionof a complete set of tables can movealong quickly since the aprons are allthe same width (4") and don't need scal-loped edges. Once you're set up, rip theaprons needed for each table.m Each apron has a ½"-wide groove cut

in its inside face to accept the Z-shapedtable top fasteners (Figs. 1 and 5).a The joinery is identical on the legsand aprons for all the tables (Fig. 1). So

once you're set up, you can drill out themortises in all of the legs (refer to theWoodworker'sNotebookonpage22). THREE TABLE SETm Next, use the table saw to cut a testtenon on a piece of scrap. Once it fits themortise in a leg, you can cut all thetenons on the aprons,a The edge treatment on each of the TYPICAL MORTISE AND TENON DETAILtable tops is the same as that on the ovalCoffee Table (Fig. 5). Since these table y4

tops have 90° corners, chipout isn't as

much of a problem as it is on the edge of

TOP VIEW

CHANGED PARTS FOR COFFEE TABLE NOTE: DRILL MORTISES%" DEEP

A Legs (4) 17½ longE TableTop(1) ¾x21-36

NEW PARTS FOR END TABLEF Legs (4) 21½ long y

G SideAprons(2) ¾x4-13H Frt./Bk. Aprons (2) ¾ x 4 - 19

i Table Top (1) ¾ x 20 - 26L REE TABLE

3

INSIDEOPTIONS REQUIRE VIEW 4 3

NEW PARTS FOR SOFA TABLE7

-Sx4 - 4"

J Legs (4) 28½ long LEG SHANKS

K Side Aprons (2) ¾ x 4 - 10½L Frt./Bk. Aprons (2) ¾ x 4 - 46M Table Top (1) ¾ x 16 - 54

Note: Tables use pre-rnade legs.

28 TABLES

an oval table. So you can rout in the glue up a blank and - after the glue has a For this version, the table top mea-normal direction (left to right). The dried - trim it to 21" x 36". sures 20" wide and 26" long.ends of the panels are still prone to - Next, rout the edge profile on the top.some chipout at the corners, so rout - After applying finish to all pieces, SOFA TABLEacross the ends first. Then rout the center the top on the base and secure it

sides to clean up any ragged corners. with Z-shaped fasteners (Fig. 5). m The Sofa Table is the tallest piece inthe set. The legs I found for this table

RECTANGULAR COFFEE TABLE END TABLE were 28½" long (Fig. 4).- On this version, the front aprons are

a The base of the Rectangular Coffee - The End Table uses legs that are 46" long. Cut the end aprons to a lengthTable has the same dimensions as the slightly taller than those on the Coffee of 10½" (Fig. 4).oval Coffee Table. So the end and front Table (Fig. 3). (Mine were 21¼" long.) m The top panel for the Sofa Table is 16"aprons are cut to the same lengths as - The front aprons for the End Table wide and 54" long. After gluing up a

those for the oval table (Fig. 2). are each cut to a length of 19". The end panel this long, take extra care to makea To make the rectangular table top, aprons are cut to a length of 13" (Fig. 3). sure the surface is absolutely flat.

H R

20 END TABLERECTANGULAR OPTION

21 COFFEE TABLEOPT10N

26 1

K 36 C SIDE APRON

H FRONT/BACKAPRON SIDE

A 22 APRON 21¼18 17¼ SIDE VIEW

LEG F END VIEWSIDE VIEW END VIEW LEG

ROUT EDGE WITH OGEE STYLE BIT

16SOFA TABLE

OPTION Z-SHAPED TABLE TOP,FASTENERS

K NOTE:SIDE OVERHANG VARIES

29¼APRON

28½ ON ALLLEG THREE TABLES

SIDE VIEW END (CENTERVIEW END-TO-END

ANDSIDE-TO-SIDE)

46

¾ < 44½ 9 ¾

COFFEE TABLE 29

Bow-FrontEnd TableFrom the high-gloss, hand-polished finish to the bow-front drawers, the details in this piece are a

reflection of your craftsmanship. The secret to the curved drawers is to build them square first.

ere's a little challenge. Set this special jigs or materials. The secret is to same distance from the top and bottomend table in a room with a bunch start building an ordinary drawer with of every leg. But there's nothing com-of woodworkers and see what ½"-thick stock and machine-cut dove- plicated about the procedure. All you

they look at first. I'll bet you nine times tails. But before assembling the drawer, need is a careful setup on the routerout of ten, the bow-front drawers will be I glued a thick block to the front piece table with a common core box bit.opened first and given a close inspec- and cut the curves. For a closer look at DETAILS AND FINISH. This end tabletion. And frankly, I'd do the same thing. this process, there's a Technique article has plenty of other details to attract

The drawers are one of the most that starts on page 40. your eye: the bead profiles on the sides,intriguing features of this project. So it's FLUTED LEGs. There are a few other the curved edging, and the ogee profilenatural to be curious about how they're design details you'll want to look at a around the top. But there's one detailbuilt. Are they bent to this shape or cut little closer. Take the legs, for instance. you won't be able to resist touching -

from a thick block? And how do you join They look like square columns with the finish. Making the top of this tablethe bowed front to the straight sides? flutes on the outside faces and chamfers glass-smooth requires a few extra coats

For these drawers, I used a proce- on the corners. Here, consistency is of finish and a little elbow grease, butdure that was a little unusual, but it everything. The three flutes on each it's well worth it. The article on page 42

allowed me to build them without any face must be spaced evenly and stop the shows you how.

30 TABLES

EXPLODED VIEWOVERALL DIMENSIONS:19W x 24¾D x 24½H

DRAWERGUIDE

D WEB FRAME RAIL

C BACK

FA 5

REORNT

CURK EDGING

BRASSBAIL PULL

LEG

WOODA Legs(4) 1½x1½-23¾B Sides(2) ¾x11¼-19½C Back (1) ¾ x 11¼ - 15½D Web Frame Rails (6) ¾ x 1½ - 16

E Web Frame Stiles (6)¾ x 1¾ - 16½ CUTTINGDIAGRAMF Web Frame PnIs. (3) ½ ply - 13 x 16½G Curved Edging (3) ¾ x 2½ - 14½ ¾ x 6

- 96 WALNUT (Two Boards @ 4 Bd. Ft. Each)

H Top(1) ¾x19-25½rgh.I Dr a werF r. / B a ck ( 4) ½ x 4% -

1 4% ,w,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,eJ Drawersides(4) ½x4%-19

¾ x 6½ - 72 WALNUT (Two Boards @ 3.25 Bd. Ft. Each)K Drawer False Fr. (2) 1¾ x 4% - 14% NOTE: ALSO NEED AL Drawer Bottoms (2) ½ ply - 13¾ x 19% f. EACELEOF

M Drawer Guides (4) ¾ x9/16 - 181¡ _ _ PLYWOOD

N DrawerStops(2) ¾x%-4 M N

6 h

dSscrews1 x 5

- 96 WALNUT (6.6

(4) Nylon glide stnps(2) Bail pulls (2

" bore) ½ x 5

- 60 MAPLE (Two Boards @ 2.1 5•. Ft. Each) ½ x 5

- 30 WALNUT (1 5.. Ft.)

BOW-FRONT END TABLE 31

LEGS

Though the bow-front drawers attract BAcK

the most attention, construction of the LEGS

table begins with the fluted legs. A

CuT To SIZE. To make the legs (A), I

started with 8/4 stock that's cut 1½"square (Fig. 1). Then the legs can becut to final length. (I used walnut to NOTE: 5

CHAMFERSbuild this table, but mahogany or STOP FLUSH

cherry would also look nice for a formal WITH FLUTES

project like this.) 23

CREATE MORTISES. The legs will be'

joined by a back and two side panels. A ¾

This U-shaped case is held together BACK

with mortise and tenon joints. However,(LLEEFD

since the panels will be over 11" wide, I

wanted to keep the leg mortises as

strong as possible. So instead of a singlemortise on each face, I cut two shorterones 3/4" apart (Fig. 1a). AOD

But before carrying the legs over to NOTE:the drill press, I took the time to lay LEAVE INSIDE

EDGES OF LEGS SQUAREout the mortise locations carefully.There's nothing more frustrating than FRONT LEGS

drilling a mortise in the wrong place.Plus, the legs on this table aren't iden¯

b c· RONT CHAMFERS

tical (Fig. 1b). The back legs are mor- BAcK VIEW TOPH FLUSH

tised on two adjacent faces; the front LEGS FLUTES

legs on only one face each.To create mortises, I like to drill

FRONT 3/4

overlapping holes and clean up each LEGS

mor tise with a chisel (Fig. 2). And I typ-ically drill them 1/16" deeper than the sECTOPON

FOOT PAD

length of the tenons. This way, there VIEW ½ CREATED WITH ¼"ROUNDOVER BIT

will be room for excess glue. L / <

ROUT FLUTES. With the mortises cut,work can begin on the narrow flutes.The goal with the flutes is to get them CHAMFER EDGES. I also chamfered FOOT PADS. There's one last detail to

spaced evenly and to get them to line up the outside edges of the legs. This is the add before the legs are complete. I cut a

at the top and bottom. This is easy same basic procedure used for the "foot pad" on the bottom of each legenough to do on the router table with a flutes. But you'll need to use a chamfer (Fig. 1c). This pad is routed on thecore box bit. All you need is a long fence bit and readjust the fence and stop router table using a ¼" roundover bitand a couple of stop blocks. For more blocks so the chamfers end up even (Fig. 4). (To back up the cut, I used a

on this, see the opposite page. with the flutes (Fig. 3). miter gauge with an auxiliary fence.)

- LEG NOTE: FENCE AND STOP BLOCKS(BACK) DIFFER FROM FLUTE SETUP BOTTOM

A (SEE TECHNIQUE OF LEG

y¿ON PAGE 33) AUXIUARY MITER

FENCE DRILL BITLEG

\ GAUGE FENCE

DON'T ROUT

yINSIDE EDGE

CUT TWO MORTISESFOR EACH SIDE ANDBACK PANEL

NOTE: CLEAN UPMORTISES WITH CHISEL NOTE: CHAMFERS

STOP ½" FROM TOP

AND ¾" FROM BOTTOM

32 TABLES

.........ÑOUf///gÑU$d5any table legs are pretty basic and pad). So when setting the blocks, makedon't attract a lot of attention. But sure the grooves stop 3/ " from the

the legs on this table are "dressed up" bottom of the leg and ½" from the topwith narrow, half-round flutes. (refer to Figs. 1a and 1c on page 32).

I routed the ½e"-deep flutes on the Note: To help me remember whichrouter table, using a ½" core box bit. end of the leg went against which stopSince the flutes are stopped at each end, block, I drew an "X" on the bottom of

this is a plunge cut - at both ends. You each leg and on the stop block that theyhave to set the leg onto the spinning bit butted against (see drawing).at the beginning of the cut and lift it off Once the stop blocks are clamped inat the end. This isn't difficult though. A place, things go pretty quickly. Whenstop block at each end makes the using the spacers, I simply held them to

starting and stopping automatic. the legs as I ran them across the coreSETTING FENCE. Normally, routing box router bit (Steps 1 and 2).

three flutes on a face would require After all the flutes have been routed,three fence settings. But to keep the you may see some burn marks at thespacing even, I set the fence once and ends. If so, a drill bit wrapped in sand-then used ¼"-thick spacers to shift the paper will help remove them (Step 4).piece (Steps 1-3 below).

Your normal router fence probablywon't work though. In order to clamp a

stop block at each end, you'll need a¼"-THICK cSPACER

fence at least twice as long as the legs. I MARK BOTTOMOF LEG AND

made mine out of ¾" solid wood and "sorrOM"clamped it to the table face down so it

STOP BLOCK

LEGwas only ¾" tall (see drawing). This low syBeO M

profile allowed me to hold the legs andspacers together when routing· NOTE: HOLD SPACER(S)

There's one more thing to keep in AND LEG TOGETHERAUXILIARY WHEN ROUTING

mind when setting the fence. The FENCE

spacers take care of the spacing, but theflutes should also be centered on thewidth of the legs. The easiest way to dothis is to set the fence to cut the middle a SET LEG ON BIT AT BEGINNING

AND LIFT IT OFF AT END OF CUTflute (routed with one spacer as shownin Step 1). If this flute is centered, then SPACER

the others will be in the correct posi-tions too.

SETTING STOP BLOCKS. With thefence set, the stop blocks can be added.

The trick is that the flutes are dif-ferent distances from each end (there's i i I /an extra ¼" on the bottom for a foot

END SECHON VIEWNO SANDPAPER

Vi SPACERSP RS

SPACERS

¾2" DRILL BIT

STOPBLOCK

½" COREBOX BIT

After the fence and stop Next, place another ¼"- Finally remove both hard- 4 If there has been anyblocks have been set, rout thick spacer between the board spacers and rout the burning, wrap sandpaper

the middle flutes, using a fence and leg and rout the last set of flutes on the two around a 3/s2"-dia. drill bit andsingle ¼"-thick spacer second set of flutes. outside faces of the legs. carefully sand the flutes.


¼ ENDBACK ½ SIDE VIEW VIEW

NOTE: ¼SIDES AND NOTE: STUBBACK CUT FROM TENONS ON WEB¾"-THICK PANELS FRAMES FIT INTO (- 10¾

¼" x Me" GROOVES 1 11¼

CUT IN SIDE PANELS

SIDE & BACK PANELS

Once the legs are complete, three widepanels can be made that will connect a arr

the legs into a U-shaped case (Fig. 5). , 2eE

After that, three horizontal web framesa DE FENCE

are added to form the drawer openings.MAKE PANELS. The first thing to do is

to glue up blanks for the side (B) and ouyback panels (C) from ¾"-thick pieces of TTOOMN

stock (Fig. 5). Then the panels can be (FOA SIDE

cut to size (Figs. 5a and 5b). I

CUT TENONs. Next, two tenons can -be cut on each end of the panels to fit W---¾f-RADIUSinto the mortises you cut in the legs. BEADING BIT y

This is easier than it sounds. I simplycut one long tenon with ¼" shoulderson the top and bottom. I did this just like :

I normally would, placing the pieceS NOTE: GROOVES- ¼ FOR WEB FRAMES

face down on the table saw and using a oAco END \ CUT ON SIDES ONLY

dado blade buried in an auxiliary fence. BMDE VIEW

To create two shorter tenons out of

this one long tenon, I cut a ¾"-widenotch in its center (Figs. 6 and 6a).Again, I used my dado blade to do this, NOTE:standing the pieces on end and ogso¶y FT

NS

removing the waste in multiple passes. // x i) DADO Bl.ADE y

But I didn't raise the blade up all theway to the shoulder. That could causescore marks on the shoulders that ROUT BEADS. At this point, I added a curved edging pieces that divide the

would be visible later. Instead, I cut the small decorative bead on the bottom drawers later.) To do this, I used a ¾2"-notch a bit short and used a chisel to edge of each panel (B, C) (Fig. 7). radius beading bit. It's simply raised to

complete the notch. (These beads will also be cut on the cut a full bead with no shoulder (Fig. 7a).

34 TABLES

CUT GROOVES. Once the bead is cut,the back panel (C) is complete. The RAILsides (B), on the other hand, still need STILE

three ¼"-wide grooves that will hold STILE

the web frames (Fig. 8). The grooves at()L

the top and bottom are located ¼" fromthe edges, and the groove in the middleis centered (Fig. 5b).

ASSEMBLE LEGS AND SIDES. After thegrooves were cut, I glued the sidepanels between the front and back legS- NOTE:

16½16

(When doing this, just be sure thec

FRANMD LILES

beads end up on the outside.) As for the THICK STOCK

back, it'll be glued between the sideassemblies a little later.

WEB FRAMESÒVE 2.

While the side assemblies were drying, IN TWO PASSESEND VIEW

I started on the web frames (Fig. 9).The frames strengthen the front of the THICKNESS

OF ¼"

PLY.

case, create the drawer openings, andsupport the drawers· DO v4

RAILS AND STILEs. To determine the STILES ANDRAILS

final size of the frames accurately, I dry-assembled the side assemblies and NOTE: CENTER GROOVE

. ON THICKNESSback panel. Then I could begin cutting OF WORKPIECEthe rails and stiles to size (Fig. 9).

The rails (D) are cut to fit betweenthe grooves in the sides, so add ½" to

the interior side-to-side dimension of ENDthe case. And to find the length of the AUX. VIEW

stiles (E), measure from the inside faceFENCE

AUX.AUX.

of the front legs to the back panel (C). FENCE

Then subtract the width of the two railsand add ½" for the stub tenons. eD

E

GROOVES AND STUB TENONS. Tohold the ¼" plywood panels, I cut a

groove centered on the inside edge of

each rail and stile (Fig. 10). Then cutmating stub tenons on the ends of thestiles to fit into the grooves that werejust cut (Fig. 11). TONGUES AND NOTCHES. There are And finally, I cut a notch in each back

PANELs. Now the ¼"-thick plywood still a couple of things to do to the corner of each web frame (Fig. 13).web panels (F) can be cut to fit into the frames. First, centered tongues need to These allow the frames to fit around thegrooves in the frame pieces. Then each be created on both sides of each frame back legs inside the case. You don'tof the frame and panel assemblies can (Fig. 12). These tongues are sized to fit need an air-tight fit. I simply laid out thebe glued together. the grooves in the side pieces. notches, then cut them with a hand saw.

, NOTE:CUT TONGUES '

ON SIDE5 OF BACK EDGE •TOP SECTIONFRAME ONLY

END OF WEB FRAME VIEW

NOTE:CUT NOTCHTO FIT

FWRAnE

SIDE


CURVED EDGING

The most distinctive feature of this tableis obvious - the curves on the front.

But at firstglance, youmight miss thebead profile onthe edgingpieces aboveand below eachdrawer opening(Fig. 14a andphoto at left).You can createthis curvedprofile throughan innovativeprocess on the

router table before the edging piecesare fastened to the web frames.

CUT TO SIZE.The first thing to do is to

dry-assemble the case - without the 14½

back (Fig. 14). (You'll need access to

the back later.) Then with the caseclamped together, you can cut three . END VIEW¾"-thick curved edging (G) pieces to fit 2½ CURVED

between the front legs. But keep the sys2--RAoius EDGING

edging wide at this point. It's easier tOBEAD

U EDGING TO

cut a smooth curve on an extra-wide FRAME WITH CASEDRY-A55EMBLED

blank. (I cut mine 3" wide.)CUT CURVEs. With the blanks

roughed out, you can begin to lay outthe curves. These are the same as thecurves that will be cut on the drawers, 23

so I took a little extra time to make a1¾

reusable ¼" hardboard template (see I

the pattern above).Now the template can be used to

draw the curves on the three blanks. Itr

OVERSIZED

roughed out the curves with a band By°aLEE LNODW O

saw, saving one of the "cutoff" pieces for cONTRACT WITHCHANGES IN

later. Then I sanded to the lines with aHUMIDITY

drum sander on the drill press.CREATE PROFILE.With the curves cut,

I routed bead profiles on the top andbottom edges (Fig. 14a). This is done NOTE:

on the router table with the same bit a 1¾TOP CUT FROMEXTRA-LONG

used on the side panels earlier. ¾"-THICK PANEL

Routing the beads is just the first TOP VIEW

step. I also removed the material bbetween the beads so they would stand

4

· SIDE SECTION VIEW

out (Fig. 14a). To do this, I used a

straight bit and a cradle made from one

of the curved waste pieces (see theTechnique on the opposite page).

#8 x 1¼" Fh

GLUE EDGING TO FRAMEs. The WOODSCREW

curved trim pieces are now completeand can be glued to the front edges of

the web frames. To do this, leave the s

case dry-assembled. This way, the legs

36 TABLES

TheBow-Front End Table has curvededging pieces that dress up the

drawer openings in the case. What's spe-cURVED

cial about these pieces (besides the EDGING

curves) are the bead profiles that arerouted on both the top and bottom edges.

Creating the beads is no problem. I

used a 3/32"-radius beading bit in therouter table to cut the profile along thetop and bottom edge of each edgingpiece (Fig. 1a). With a face flat on the a END VIEW

table, the curve of the workpiece ridesagainst the bearing of the bit (Fig. 1).

However, I wanted to make the twobeads "stand proud," so I had to come ½2"-RADIUSup with some way to remove the mate- BEADING BIT

rial between the beads (see photo).Had the pieces been straight, this

wouldn't have been any trouble. Buthow do you guide a curved piece over a r cURVEDstraight bit safely and consistently? 8. NOTE:

EDGING

The solution was to use one of the VIEW SNEAKUPON i

waste pieces left from cutting the EDGING FINAL

curves on the edging pieces. I sanded ,'

GH T NMOAKEE

TWO PASSES,

this waste piece and drilled a ½"-dia. ,' FLE

N

ASESES

clearance hole in the center. This hole 2xF4ENACUEX

fits over a ¼"-dia. straight bit in therouter table. And to provide support forthe side of the edging piece, I screwed STRAILT BIT

OD

the waste piece to a scrap 2x4. Then I

clamped the fence assembly to therouter table (Fig. 2).

When routing, you'll want to sneak i 2x4 AUXILIARY

up on the height of the bit until it's flush \ -

FENCE

with the bottom of the beads (Fig. 2a).And since the ¼" bit is a hair narrower A SAFETY NOTE: MOVEU• HANDSTOFRONTOFthan the space between the beads, I PIECE AS CUT/'made two passes at each height setting, ,- - - PROGRESSES

flipping the edging piece end for end ,,*o CEU

Mbetween passes. cURVE ON EDGING

Since the bit will exit the back end of

the workpiece, move your hands to the /

front as the cut progresses (Fig. 2b).

on the sides will automatically position ASSEMBLY. Finally, the entire case is GLUE UP PANEL. The first thing to dothe edging (Fig. 14). (Just be careful ready for final assembly. This means is glue up a panel from ¾"-thick stockthat you don't glue the edging to the gluing the back panel and the three web (Fig. 15). Since the top is the most vis-legs at this point.) frames between the two side assem- ible surface on the table, I took extra

MOUNTING HOLES. With the curved blies (Fig. 15). care to choose and match some nice-edging glued to the frames, there's one looking walnut boards.last thing to do before the case can be After the glue is dry, the top (H) canglued together. The top web frame be cut to finished width (Fig. 15). I

needs some countersunk shank holes Like the legs and drawers, the top of simply sized the panel to overhang thedrilled in it so you can mount the top this table should also have a few nice legs ¾" on the sides (Fig. 15a). Andpanel later (Figs. 15a and 15b). details. The front edge is curved to though I cut the panel to its final width, I

Note: Drill the holes slightly over- match the curved edging pieces, and I left it a little long. The panel is cut to itssize so the panel can expand and con- routed the edges with an ogee fillet bit final length after the curve is formed ontract freely with changes in humidity. to give it a classic profile. the front edge.

L FRONT END TABLE 37

CREATE CURVE. The curve on the .front edge of the top (H) is a couple of

'a.

inches wider than the curved edging 23

(G), so I couldn't use the same tem-plate. Instead I simply bent a flexible 74

straightedge against a couple of blocks WASTEand drew the curve directly on the top(Fig. 16). Then it's cut out and sandedsmooth with a disk or drum sander.

ASi"eLHETEDGE

Once the curve is formed on the frontedge, cut the top to finished length(refer to Fig. 15a on page 36).

ROUT PROFILE. Next, to give the top a

traditional profile, I routed around theedges with an ogee fillet bit (Fig. 17).This is a two-step process, but you canuse the same bit in both steps.

The first pass is made with the routerriding on the top face of the top panel NOTE: ROUT

ENDS FIRST(H) (Fig. 17a). (To avoid chipout, routthe ends first, moving the router left-to- a. F SSS'

b.right.) For the second pass, you'll needto flip the top over and adjust the depth y TOP FACE

of the bit so the bearing rides along theflat edge (Fig. 17b). This means therewill be a little sanding left to do to round FOGL END SECOND yop END

the edge completely. BIT mm PMS FACE RAt this point, the top can be screwed I

to the case. But before doing this, I

applied a coat of finish to the bottom :NOTE:

# 19 DRILL HOLES FOR PULLface of the top so the panel would be AFTER APPLYING FINISH

less likely to cup· FRONT

BOW-FRONT DRAWERS

With this table, the best feature is savedfor last - the bow-front drawers are 4¾

both the main attraction and a great1

woodworkingchallenge.BUILD DRAWERS. To build each

drawer, you start by making a rectan-' 4¾

ular drawer with ½"-thick stock joined 19 NAOL

FRONT ANDwith machine-cut

NOTEONT RDE W NUT O •FRONT

STARTS

dovetails (Figs. 18 FOR SŸEP-BY-STEP ARTICLE , ARE MAPLE OUT OVERSIZED

ON BUILDING BOW-FRONTyand 18b). (The DRAWERS, SEE PAGE 40

Technique articleon page 40 takes 8· TOP VIEW ¾"-LONG

. MACHINEyou through this scREW

step by step.) I

sized the fronts (I)

and backs (I) soRASS BAIL PULL

the completed¼" DEEP

drawer would have 1/16" gaps at the top,bottom, and sides. And the sides (J)were cut 19" long. This allows for thefalse front (added next), plus a bit of and sanded smooth. Finally, a drawer ThefirstthingIdidwasaddpiecesto"breathing room." (My drawer ended bottom (L) can be added, and the guide the drawers and center themup ¾" short of the back of the case.) drawers glued together. side-to-side. The 3 4"-thick guides (M)

But before assembling the drawer, a GUIDES.There's still some work left are cut to length to fit between the frontthick false front (K) is glued to the front to do before the drawers will slide and back legs, and they're ripped justpiece. Now the front can be cut to shape smoothly in and out of the case. wide enough to guide the drawer in and

38 TABLES

out without binding (Figs. 19 and 19a). short block at the back of the case to act(Mine were ¾e" wide.) as a drawer stop (Fig. 19). Sneak up on

GUIDE STRIPS. Though the guides the final width of this stop (N) until thedirect the drawer, you don't want the drawer is properly positioned. (Mydrawer to rest directly on the web block was ¾" wide.) Then glue theframe. Eventually the drawer sides block to the back of the case.would rub through the finish and wear a DRAWER PULLS. To complete thevisible groove in the curved edging. So drawers, all that's left are the bail pulls.to avoid this, I placed nylon glide strips Note: I waited to mount the pullsinside the cabinet for each drawer to until after the finish had been appliedride on (Fig. 19b). These self-adhesive and rubbed out (refer to page 42).glide strips were roughly 1/16" thick, so The Shop Tip at right shows how tothey also established the proper gap at lay out the locations of the mounting Before laying out the loca-the bottom of the drawer. I cut the strips holes without marring the finish. Once tions of the pilot holes forso they stopped at the joint line between the locations were marked, I drilled the the drawer pulls, I appliedthe web frame and the edging strips holes for the machine screws that came several strips of masking(Fig. 196). (See page 126 for sources of with the pulls (Fig. 18a). I drilled these tape to the fronts of thenylon glide strips.) holes slightly oversize since the bail drawers to protect the finish.

STOPS. The next task is to get each back plate will have to "bend" slightly This made it easier to see thedrawer to shut so that its front face is set around the drawer. Now all that's left is lines and provided a no-slipjust behind the bead on the curved to remove the tape carefully and screw surface for my awl.edging (Fig. 19c). To do this, I added a the pulls in place. -

TOP SECTIONGUIDE VIEW

DRAWERBEHIND

16 BEADING

or most drawers, I cut the grooves a clearance hole sized to fit over the To position the arm at the rightfor the bottom panel on the table bearing on the bit. This hole should be height above the cutter, I screwed it to a

saw. But the curve on each drawer front drilled so that only ¼" of the cutter is support block that can be clamped toon the end table makes that impossible. exposed (refer to Fig. 6a on page 41). the router table.So I used a slot cutter bit in therouter table (see photo). SIZE HOLE

TO FIT OVERHowever, my slot cutter RUB ARM BEARING ON BIT

(¼" HARDBOARD (REFER TO FIG. 6arouts a ½"-deep slot - too #e6 ",REhW 1¾" x 12") ON PAGE 41)

deep for the ½"-thick drawerpieces. And I didn't have a e

larger bearing that wouldreduce the depth of the slot. So

'

I made a rub arm that fits overthe bearing (see drawing)- ., Vs SLOT

"My rub arm looks like a big . CUTTER BIT

tongue depressor cut from ¼"hardboard. The round end has


W©ilÐl 'UL4. . . . . sow-Front orswershough it may sound diffi- OVERSIZED BLANK. To buildcult, there isn't any trick to up the thickness of the drawer

"bowing" a drawer front. front, I added a 1¾"-thick falseSimply start with a thick blank, front made from 8/4 walnutcut the curves on a band saw, (see photos at right). And to

and sand them smooth. It's accentuate the curves cut later,that simple. I chose a board with a grain

However, the curved front pattern shaped like a "bulls-has to be connected with two eye" (photo at left). I cut thisstraight sides. And the tradi- blank slightly oversize andtional way to do this is with then glued it to the front of thehalf-blind dovetails. front piece. (The false front

So how do you go about cut- will be trimmed flush later.)ting dovetails on a curved At this point, the front lookspiece? You don't. For the end massive. But don't worry. Thetable, I built "square" drawers « curve gets cut on both thewith dovetails first and then . inside and outside faces, so the"bowed" the front pieces later. final thickness of the drawer

BUILD DRAWER. This drawer starts the front later will add 1½" to the depth front will only be about ½".out like most - the ½"-thick pieces are of the drawer. (I cut my sides 19" long, TRIM OVERSIZED BLANK. After thecut to size (Fig. 1). To highlight the which left about ¾" between the back glue is dry, the oversized blank can bedovetails, I used maple for the drawer of the drawer and the case.) trimmed to match the ½"-thick piece. I

sides(seephotobelow). Toconnectthesepieces,Irouted½" did this on the table saw, but theNote: When cutting the sides to dovetails with a hand-held router and a problem is that the oversized piece gets

length, you want to make sure the dovetail jig (Figs. 2 and 2a). Then I set in the way. The solution is to use a thindrawer doesn't end up too deep. Take the sides and back out of the way. It's auxiliary fence that the ½"-thick pieceinto account that a thick blank glued to time now to work on the drawer front. can ride against (Fig. 3).

AOL

FRONT STARTS OUT ¼"N AL

ETH

K

1¾

LONGER AND WIDER THAN FRONT DRAWER PIECES

FALSEFRONT

DMMR FRDRNAT ARCK

NOTE:FALSE FRONT ANDFRONT ARE WALNUTSIDES AND BACKARE MAPLE

a. END VIEW

PUSH NOTE: BLOCKBLOCK LOWERF CDEE

FRONTFRONT AND FAL NOTE: BLADE SHOULDFRONT BLANK TRIM FALSE FRONT ONLY

40

LAY OUT BOTH INSIDEAND OUTSIDE CURVES

DRAWERFRONT

a. v2TOP VIEW WASTE

WASTE

Laying out the curves was easy. I

used the same template that I used to

make the curved edging (Fig. 4). Lay NOTE:CUT TO WASTEout the starting points on the ends and SIDE OF LINES

inside face of the blank (Fig. Ja). Thensimply line up the template with the WASTE

marks and draw the curves.To cut the curves, I used the band

saw, feeding the blank as smoothly as

possible (Fig. 5). Just be sure to stay to

the waste side of the lines becauseyou'll need to do some sanding later.

Built-up Drawer Front. The Secret to SANDCURVES.Tosmooththecurves,cutting dovetails in the curved drawer I used a little elbow grease, sanding thefront is to cut them in a ½"-thick blank pieces by hand. But I did find a simplefirst (top photo). Then glue a thick false way to make a curved sanding blockfront to the blank before cutting the that made the job easier (see the Shopcurves (bottom photo). Tip at right). gg

GROOVE FOR BOTTOM. With theTo trim the oversized blank, lower drawer front smooth, grooves can be The waste piece from the

the blade and position the rip fence and cut on allthe pieces for the ¼" plywood drawer front makes a perfectauxiliary fence so the edge of the ½"- bottom. And to do this on the curved sanding block. Just addthick piece is flush with the blade. Then fronts, I used a slot cutter bit. adhesive-backed sand paper.clamp the auxiliary fence down, raise Note: I had to outfit my bit with a rubthe blade, and trim the oversized blank arm so it would cut a ¼"-deep groove NOÆ

. MAKE SANDING BLOCKS FROM(Figs. 8 and 3a). (Fig. 6). Refer to the Shop Jig on page CURVED WASTE PIECES

With the long edges of the blank 39 for details about this rub arm.flush, you can trim the ends of the With the grooves routed, I cut outdrawer front quickly using the miter the drawer bottom (Fig. 7). Here again,gauge and an auxiliary fence. I used the curved template to lay out the

DRAWER '

CUT CURVES. Now that the front has front edge before cutting it to shape. FRONT

been trimmed, it's time to create the Then the pieces can be glued together NHDE IVE ACK

curves on the inside and outside faces just as you would with an ordinaryby cutting away most of the blank. square drawer.

NOTE:USE CURVED TEMPLATE

a . D

O

EE

ELR

I T

BOM RCN END TABLE 41

Bl l20m . . . . . Hand ubbed Rn/shhoosing a finish for the Bow-Front that's somewhere between axle greaseEnd Table was easy. I knew I wanted and petroleum jelly. After saturating a

a finish that would attract as much steel wool pad with the lubricant andattention as the table without hiding the applying some more to the surface of

beauty of the wood. Plus, it had to be the workpiece, you can quickly create a

durable. That's why I settled on varnish. hand-rubbed satin finish.An oil-based varnish gives me the PASTE WAx. Another very popular

best results I can get without expensive approach is to use paste wax to lubri-spray equipment. By brushing on sev- , cate the steel wool. It cuts a bit slowereral coats and then rubbing out the top ' than the steel wool lubricant, but leavescoat, you can achieve a smooth, glossy a glossier surface when it's buffed out.finish. It also adds a warm, reddish tintto the walnut without any special stain.And it provides a lot of protection too.

PREPARE SURFACE. I began by With just a few more steps using finersanding the entire end table to 180-grit. abrasives, you can achieve a high-gloss(Refer to page 26 for tips about finish. Pumice and rottenstone are com-preparing the end grain on the front and monly used in these steps.back of the table top.) POWDER. Pumice is a white-gray

CLEAN SHOP. Next, I take some time the contours of the imperfections material that comes from volcanic ash.to clean my shop thoroughly with a you're trying to remove. You'll get a It's graded from FF (coarsest) to FFFFvacuum cleaner. Because varnish takes much better (flatter and smoother) (finest). Rottenstone is an even finer,a long time to dry, your worst enemy is finish if you use sandpaper and a black-gray powder. It's made fromdust. It settles on the wet finish and cre- sanding block to sand between coats on ground-up limestone and gets its nameates a rough surface. But be aware that flat surfaces. from the odor that's released when thecleaning can also kick dust into the air. raw material is being processed.So when I'm done, I wait until the next (Fortunately, the odor is gone by theday to start varnishing. This allows the time you open the bag.)dust to settle. After you've built up several coats of RUBBING FELT. Pumice and rotten-

finish, you might want to consider "rub- stone can be worked with a clean, softbing out" the top. This requires more cloth. But I prefer a block of rubbingtime and elbow grease, but you'll end up felt. It works just like a sanding block to

With the shop clean, you can begin with a glass-smooth surface. provide a flat surface.applying coats of varnish. For the first Basically, "rubbing out" means using USING POWDERs. Pumice and rotten-coat, you may want to thin down the var- finer and finer abrasives to polish the stone are used the same way. (Be pre-nish so it flows out a little better, but the surface. Depending on how fine an pared. It gets a bit messy.) First, a thintechnique is the same. abrasive you use, you can have a satin coat of rubbing oil is spread on the work

CROSS-GRAIN. I brushed the varnish finish or a high-gloss finish. surface. Then the powder is sprinkledacross the grain first to get the finish on Before you can begin polishing, the around. Take long, even strokes withthe wood. Then I smoothed out the coat finish needs to be "built up" so it's the rubbing felt, working with the grain.using a light brush stroke with the thicker. (I applied four additional coats Before long, the powder and oil willgrain. You'll want to apply thin coats, or to the top.) That way, you won't "cut" mix together into a creamy paste. If

the finish will run and sag. (If it does, through the finish to bare wood. there's too much oil, you won't feel anywipe it off immediately with mineral cutting taking place. If there's too muchspirits. Otherwise you'll have to sand or powder, the felt will tend to catch ratherscrape it away after it dries.) than glide over the surface.

SANDING. After the first coat dries The difference between a satin finish As you work, check the progress by

(overnight),you'll want to smooth out and a glossy finish is simply in the wiping the paste from different sectionsthe surface and remove any dust nibs amount of rubbing and the types of of the surface. Try to rub all partswith 400-grit wet-dry sandpaper and a abrasives used. evenly. (One trick is to count off thesanding block. Then you can add more BUFFING. For a satin finish, I'll buff same number of strokes over eachcoats, sanding between coats. the surface lightly with 0000 steel wool. area.) Once the finish is uniform, clean

STEEL WOOL. For polishing mold- But don't use it right out of the package. off the residue and move on to the nextings, curved surfaces, carvings, and all To create a consistent sheen without finer abrasive until you get the sheenthe nooks and crannies that are difficult cutting through the finish, you need to you like.to sand, steel wool is a good choice. use a lubricant. Once I had my table buffed the way I

However, steel wool shouldn't be used One product made specifically for wanted it, I added a coat of wax to giveon flat surfaces since it forms around use with steel wool has a consistency the table a little more shine.

42

DESIGNER'S N• OOKWith just a single drawer, this version of the ßow-FrontEnd Table has a lighter look. Since there are

fewer pieces to make and fewer joints to cut, constructiongoes more quickly, too.

CONSTRUCTIONNOTES:m This Single Drawer Table is built withthe same techniques used for the Bow-Hro

w

enr

yulyMn eehde kc

tonoe

5

long mortise on each face where twoare cut for the regular table (Fig. 1).(Refer to Fig. 1b on page 32 for loca-tions of mortises on each leg.)e All other leg details (flutes, chamfers,and foot pads) are the same as for thetwo-drawer Bow-Front End Table.- The sides (B) and back (C) are cut to

a width of 6" (Fig. 2).- Next, tenons are cut on the ends of thesides (B) and back (C) to fit the mor-tises in the legs.m After that, the grooves that accept thetongues on the web frames are cut onthe inside faces of the sides (B) (Fig. 2).a From here, construction is the sameas for the two-drawer version of the SINGLE DRA VEtable. The only differences are that youonly need to make two web frames, twocurved edging pieces, and one drawer.

NOTE: CUT ONLY ONE5½" LO MORTIRSEDENNE CRH N IDE FACE. CHANGED PARTS K Drawer False Frt. (1) 1¾ x 4% - 14%

THE SAME (SEE FIG. 1 ON PAGE 32) B Sides (2) % x 6- 19½ L Drawer Bottom (1) ½ ply - 13½ x 19¾

4 C Back (1) % x 6- 15½ M Drawer Guides (2) ¾ x 9/16 - 18½

D WebFrameRails(4) ¾x1½-16 N DrawerStop(1) ¾x%-4E Web Frame Stiles (4)% x 1¾ - 16½F Web Frame Pnis. (2) % ply - 13 x 16½ HARDWARE SUPPLIES

4 G Curved Edging (2) ¾ x 2½ - 14½ (2) Nylon glide stripsi Drawer Frt./Bk. (2) ½ x 4% - 14% (1) Bail pull (2" bore)J Drawer Sides (2) ½ x 4% - 19

NOTE: DO NOTGROOVE BACK PANEL

6

5½ FOR WEB FRAMES

¼" GROOVE,

23¾ ½" DEEP FOR 5½ 6

WEB FRAMES


> hances are if you like the way a horne is decorated,Cithas a lot to do with the accessories. The projects

in this section add the warmth of wood to yourhome's decor. Plus, each one can be customized to suit your

tastes. The molded edges of the oval mirror and the classic

fraines can be inodified in numerous ways. The mantel clock

is designed to work with either a traditional mechanicalmovement or a contemporary quartz movement. And the

book stand is perfect for a library or den, or even a hallway.

Oval Mirror 46ShopTip:SizingSplines ........................48

ShopTip:ModifyingaBit.......................49Technique: Hanging Heavy Frames . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51

ShopJig:Oval-CuttingJig.......................52

Mantel Clock 56ShopJig:TenonJig............................59Shop Jig: Molding Miter Jig......................60Designer's Notebook: Quartz Movement . . . . . . . . . . . . 61 •

Designer's Notebook: Traditional Clock . . . . . . . . . . . . 65

Classic Frames 66Shop Jig: Compound Miter Assembly Blocks. . . . . . . . . 68

FinishingTip:Stain&Paint.....................69Shop Jig: Compound Miter Sled . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71

Shop Tip: Cove Sanding Block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73

Technique: Table Saw Coves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74

Technique: Mounting & Hanging . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75

Book Stand 76Shop Tip: Centering a Mortise. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78

Shop Tip: Checking for Square . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79

Technique: Spindle Turning Template . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81

Shop Tip: Enlarging a Round Tenon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81

Shop Jig: Long Stock Drilling Jig. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82

Designer's Notebook: Square Legs. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 3

OvalMirrorThis mirror will be a pleasing addition to your foyer or front hallway. It's simple to make by cutting a

number of short pieces, gluing them together to form an octagon, and then routing it into an oval.

T he idea of building an Oval Mirrorhas always intrigued me. Butwithout some kind of jig to cut the

oval-shaped frame and rout the complexprofiles, it's virtually impossible to makea consistent oval. So after a lot of thought(there's more to cutting an oval than a

circle), I came up with a jig that made it

possible. For more about how thisworks, see the Shop Jig on page 52.

PRORLE.The most interesting aspects

of this project are how the profile is cre-

ated and how the frame is cut to size.To cut a profile like this normally

requires a shaper and an expensivecutter. But I molded this profile and cut

the oval to size with a router (mountedin the jig) and three router bits.

To rout the profile shown here and r

cut the frame, you'll need a14"

roundoverbit (without the bearing), a

34" core box bit, and a ¼" straight bit.JOINERY. The frame is made from \t

eight pieces joined together withsplined miter joints. But don't worry,even with sixteen miters, I've come upwith a simple way to make sure you end

up with nice tight joints. Plus, I used½"-thick hardboard for the splinesbecause it's very stable and less likelyto cause the joints to move duringchanges in humidity. This can be a realconcern in a project like this.

WOOD AND FINISH. To allow enoughthickness for the profile, you'll need 5/4stock (11/16" actual thickness). I usedcherry for my mirror, but another goodchoice would be walnut.

For the finish I applied two coats of a

satin polyurethane finish.MIRROR. The mirror itself is a stan-

dard ½"-thick mirror. And unlessyou're good at cutting glass, you'll prob- 4 4,4 hably have to pay a little extra to have theoval shape cut.

HARDWARE. I used a heavy braidedwire and hinged hangers to hang the Finally, for more informationon how and project supplies on page 126. It also

mirror. See the Technique on page 51 to find the hardware needed to build lists sources for the various router bitsfor ideas on hanging heavy frames. (and then hang) the frame, see Sources used in cutting the molding profiles.

46 ACCESSORIES

EXPLODED VIEWOVERALL DIMENSIONS: HINGED HANGER25W x 1¾aD x 37H

MAT BOARD

MIRROR

SIDE

B

END

A

WOODA Ends (4) 1¼e x 5

- 12½ CUTTINGDIAGRAMB Sides (4) 1¼e x 5

- 15

C Splines (8) ½ hdbd.-5/e x 2921 ex 5

- 60 (2.6 Bd. Ft.)

y NOTE: ALSO NEEDYs" HARDBOARD FOR

HARDWARE SUPPLIES SPLINES

(1) Oval mirror (cut to shape)(1) ¼6" -32" x 40" standard mat board 1 ex 5 - 60 (2.6 Bd. Ft.)

6) No 7 g zirng push points

(8) No. 5 x ½"

Fh woodscrews10' (rough) 20# braided wire(4)

½• rubber bumpers

OVAL MIRROR 47

BUILDING THE BLANK

The oval frame actually starts out as an

octagonal blank (Fig. 1). Four of the 30° MITER

pieces are identical ends (A), and theother four are identical sides (B). To cut

- 22½° MITER

all eight pieces, you'll need to set the _SPUNE

saw for three different angles· SPLINES ARE CUT

ENDS AND SIDES. To cut the ends (A) FRH AHRCDK

and sides (B), first rip all eight pieces ¯12½

from 5/4 stock (1½e" actual thickness)is·

22½° MITERto a finished width of 5" (Fig. 1). Now 22½

miter one end of each piece at 22½°. 15° MITER

Then cut each end (A) to final length s

with a30° miter at the opposite end

(Fig. 1). The sides (B) are cut to length SIDES AND ENDS

by mitering the opposite end at 15°- ivÌTcucKF OM

Once all the pieces are cut to size, thenext step is to rout grooves for splines.

ORGANIZING PIECES. It's important DRAW "X" ONwith spline and groove joinery to make T FACE SPLINE

OF EACH PIECE (Vs"-THICKsure the grooves align. So before HARDBOARD)

routing the workpieces, first organize c

them as they're going to appear in theblank (Fig. 1). Then draw an "X" on thetop face of each piece so they'll be ori-ented the same way.

RouTING GROOVES. Normally, a splineis centered on the thickness of a board. 2½

But for this project, a centered spline vs

would be exposed once the profile is

routed. So to avoid this, place the splinesoff-center (½" from the back) on the 4thickness of the frame pieces (Fig. 2).

The grooves also have to be stoppedshort so they won't be seen on the out-side of the frame. So first rout one end

' '

of each workpiece in the normal, rightto left manner stopping at a centerline How tight should a splinedrawn on both the router table and on be? When dry-assemblingone edge of the workpiece (Fig. 3). the joint, if you can't push

Note: Face the "X" away from the the spline in easily with yourrouter table fence. finger, it will be too tight

Then to rout the other end of each when there's glue in thepiece so the stopped grooves are on the joint. So the spline needs tosame side, be sure to keep the "X" side of be thinner. But, if the splinethe workpiece facing out and plunge the falls out when the workpieceworkpiece onto the bit at the centerline is turned over, it's too loose

and rout in the normal direction (Fig. 4). to hold the joint together.GLUING AN OCTAGON. When cutting ASSEMBLE MITERED

PIECES INTO TWO

miters of an eight-sided frame, there'S SPLINE SHOULD HALF FRAMES

SLIDE INTO KERFalways a good chance for error- WITH UGHT HAND ,

Each of the pieces requires two miters PRESSURE'

(one for each end) for a total of sixteen GAPS CAN

cuts. If the miter gauge is off just ¼°, the OEC USR AF

combined gap would be about ¼" when HALF-FRAMES

the pieces are assembled (Fig. 5).

HALF FRAMEs. The trick to creatingtight joints at each miter involves assem- SPLINE

bling two "half frames," then cutting theends of each to fit together tightly.

48 ACCESSORIES

So first, cut the splines from hard-board and glue up four of the pieces(half the frame). See the Shop Tip on the WORKPIECE IS

opposite page for how to size the splines. FASTENED. TOCARRIER

PLYWOOD CARRIER. After the pieces WITH CARPET TAPEare dry, I use a piece of plywood as a cut-off table for the half frames (Fig. 6). PLYWOOD a , PtYWOOD

To cut the plywood, set up the fence cARRIER • \ CARRIER

on the saw a little wider than the glued-up half frame, ripping the plywood so the '' - SHORT

TRIM ENDS OF CORNERedges are parallel. Now fasten the half HALF FRAME / 'frame to the plywood with carpet tape. FL WIRTH OVELROHNANCG

C

RRRIER

Then, if the miters are off, position LONG \ /the half frame so the two long corners CORNER

extend beyond the edge of the plywoodand the two short corners are flush tO SCREW EVERY OTHER

FRAME PIECE TOthe edge (Fig. 6a). PLYWOOD BASE

MAKING THE CUTS. Next, run the ply- PLACE SMALL PIECEW OH #D8SC

E

FS

wood carrier through the table saw, OF DOUBLE-SIDEDCARPET TAPE CENTERED

trimming off the long corners of the UNDER EACH FRAME PIECE

half frame. Repeat the procedure on theother half frame. Now the two halvescan be glued together without a gap.

MOUNTINGBLANK TO JiG ,, SE5E2TAGE

' - BUILD JIG

Now that the frame blank is complete, ,'

you'll need an easy way to rout the pro- *

LIGN FRAMEfile. To do this, I designed an oval-cutting '

CENTERS TOLAYOUT LINESjig. (For more on the jig, see page 52.) To i /'

ensure the profile is routed in the centerof the blank, the blank must be posi- Note: To ensure the router bits clear plywood once it's cut from the blanks.tioned correctly on the jig. the screws, place the holes at the center of MOUNT BLANK. Now all that's left is

To do this, first drill pilot holes for each piece within ¼" of the inside edge. to slip the frame blank onto the oval-cut-woodscrews that hold the blank to the Then center double-sided carpet ting jig, aligning the center to the layoutlarge plywood base (Fig. 7). I drilled tape on the bottom of each frame piece lines (Fig. 7). Then screw the blank to

the holes into every other frame piece. (Fig. 7). The tape holds the frame to the the plywood base.

$$$ÔPflP.........................Mod/6//ngaSitI needed a roundover bit removable rub pilot, butwithout a pilot bearing to there's a problem. Since therout the bead in the center end of this bit isn't made toof the Oval Mirror. cut wood, I had to modify

To do this, I bought a it to use it on this project.high speed steel bit and To prevent burning, I

arbor setL it has a groun

)

Hpoedon

the bit with lockingpliers and use the

• GRIND COrner Of the wheel.CONCAVE SHAPE

ON END Grind fromthe BEFORE: The bit with the AFTER: With the end ofcenter outwards, flat end is difficult to push the bit hollowed out, thebeing careful not to through the workpiece, cut is much smoother andnick the cutting edge and the friction it pro- the workpiece shows noof the router bit. duces burns the wood. signs of burning.

OVAL MIRROR 49

ROUTING THE PROFILE the first pass will :cOUNTERRC

CKWISEbegin, locate the

With the blank center of one of themounted on the end pieces (A) andoval-cutting jig, then draw a cen-you're ready to terline (Fig. 8).rout the frame's Next, mountprofile and the the ¼" roundoveroval shape. bit in the router.

ROUTER BITS. A shaper cutter can And then set themold the profile shown in the photo. But depth of the bit to

it also can be routed with three router rout ¼" deep. BEGIN FIRST RASSIN ŒNTER OF END PIECE

bits: a ¼" roundover bit without a Now adjust thebearing (see the Shop Tip on page 49), a router carriage so

¾" core box bit, and a ¼" straight bit. the outside edge of the bit is on the Note: When performing this step by

FIRST PAss. The profile is routed in inside of the centerline (Step 1). step procedure, always remember to

nine separate steps. In each step the After the router carriage is adjusted, start a little wide from where you wantrouter bit is positioned at a differentloca- follow the steps below (changing the bits to end up, then sneak up on the finaltion on the blank. To determine where and adjusting the carriage as you go). measurement of the profile.

¼" ¾" COREROUNDOVER SNEAK UP ON BOX BIT

BIT ¼" ROUNDOVER CENTERLINE SNEAK UPF SFI EED BIT

½"-WIDE BEAD C RPETB E

With a ¼" roundover bit in the router Next, readjust router carriage so the Switch to a 3/4" core bo×bit. Adjust car-position the router carriage so the out- inside edge of bit is approximately %" riage so inside edge of bit is ¼" away

side edge of the bit is on the centerline. away from the centerline. Then sneak up from the outside edge of bead. Sneak upNow rout inside half of ½"-wide bead. On centerline to complete ½"-wide bead. on the bead to create a %"-wide shoulder

¾" CORE ¼" STRAIGHT 4.BOX BIT BIT ROUNDOVER

SNEAK UP SNEAK UP BIT SNEAK UP

4 Next, reposition carriage so outside 5 Switch to %" straight bit. Then adjust Reinstall roundover bit. Repositionedge of bit is about ¼" away from carriage so the inside edge of the bit carriage so inside edge of bitis about

inside edge of the bead. Then, sneak up is about 7/s" away from the centerline. ¼" away from outside edge of the cove.on the bead to create a %"-wide shoulder Next, sneak up to leave a 3/s"-wide cove. Sneak up to leave ½"-wide shoulder

. ¼" STRAIGHTSNEAK UP

SNEAK UP STR I HT

ROUN OVER

SNEAK UP

H

Reposition carriage so the outside Reinstall the straight bit Then adjust Now, readjust ca riage so theedge of the roundover bit is appro×i- the carriage so the bit is ½6"ÝTON Íhe Straight bit is about ½s" away from

mately%s" away from inside edge of the outside roundover. Sneak up on the the inside roundover Sneak up on thebead. Sneak up to leave¾e"-wide cove. roundoverto cut the outside of the oval. roundoverand cut through the blank.

50 ACCESSORIES

INSTALLING THE MIRROR

RABBETAfter the profile has been routed, gently BIT

remove the frame from the plywoodbase. If the double-sided carpet tape

BEDE

won't release the frame, a good way to idissolve the adhesive on the tape is by

flowing a small amount of denaturedalcohol under the frame.

ROUTING RABBET. The final step in CLR

SE USE CARPETTAPEmaking the frame is to rout a ½"-wide DIRECTION TO HOLD SUPPORT

rabbet along the back inside edge forstocK TO ROUTER BASE

the mirror and mat board.To do this, I used a hand-held router MAARD

,with a rabbet bit (Fig. 9). But, because A

the back of the frame isn't really verywide, I decided to use carpet tape to

fasten a small block of wood to the base 8.'"^Ñ MRAATBET

PUSH

of the router for additional support. BOARD POINT

Then when you rout the rabbet, movethe router in a clockwise direction.

FINISH.With the frame complete, thenext step is to lightly sand the profile MIRROR-and then apply the finish- MAT BOARD

BACKING BOARD AND MIRROR. Toprotect the silver coating on the back of

the mirror from being damaged, I cut a Note: I also brought the mat board Then, install the mirror and mat boardstandard mat board to use as a backing to the glass shop so they could use it as with push points spaced evenly aroundboard (Figs. 10 and 10a). a template when cutting the mirror. the frame's inside edge (Fig. 11a). Er

....................Harig/ngHeavyFratriese braided wire used to hang this four hinged hangers to the back of the 1/s" HANGER WITH

E mirror is strung in such a way that it frame (Figs. 1 and 2). Then string °)osexo'Isig"ER

pulls the frame in towards the center of braided wire through the hangers,the mirror. This relieves some of the starting with the bottom one (Fig. 1a).pressure from the weight of the mirror. Now thread the wire through theAnd it works for both horizontal and top, left, and right hangers. Then termi-verticalmountings(Figs.1and2). nate the wire back through the top

STRINGING WIRE. The first step to hanger, and tie it off just as you did at

installing the hanging system is to screw the bottom hanger (Fig. 1a).

NOTE: WHEN STRINGING WIRE, 20 LB.

RUBBER MAKE SURE IT'S TIGHT, RAIRDEED

BUMPER WITH 1" SLACK IN SECTIONTHAT HOOKS ON WALL

a.TIE OFFAT TOP WRAP

WIRE SIXOR SEVEN

20 LB. MOUNT TOP AND TIMESBRAIDED WIRE BOTTOM HANGERS

OFF CENTER SOSCREWS MISS JOINTS

sTART ATBOTTOM RUBBER

BUMPER

F/s" HANGER MOUNT TOP AND BOTTOMWITH TWO #5 x ½" HANGERS OFF CENTER

BRASS Fh WOODSCREWS SO SCREWS MISS JOINTS

OVAL MIRROR 51

Q outing a glued-up blank into a perfect HoW THE JIG WORKS. As the router that swings up and down to allow easieri koval (ellipse) requires a trammel. orbits the platform, the two anchor access to the router's collet. It also lets

But not the type you might expect. Most points chase each other in a circular you gradually lower the bit into thetrammels swing on one anchor point, path. And while this is going on, they're workpiece at the start of each pass.

allowing you to rout a circle. But to rout also sliding back and forth in separate MATERIALS. Because many of thean oval, you need a trammel that swings tracks that are perpendicular to each pieces on the jig either rotate or slide, I

on two anchor points. other (see photos above). used hard maple for most of the parts.This oval-cutting jig does just that. It OVAL FRAMEs. This jig allows you to The exceptions are the base and

consists of a trammel platform that sup- do two things. You can rout the inside trammel platform (¾"-thick plywood)ports a large trammel arm. At the end of and outside edges of an oval frame with and some ¼" hardboard for the tiltingthe arm is a frame that holds a router in the width of the frame being equal all the base plate and a pair of shims (for

place (Fig. 1). way around. It's also good for routing a routing pieces of different thickness).As the arm rotates around the plat- complex profile on the face of the frame The hardware should be available at

form, the two anchor points are working (such as that shown on page 50). most hardware stores or home centers.together to control the orbit of the router. JIG FEATURES. If you've ever routed a

One anchor point controls the length of molding that has an ornate profile, you TRAMMEL PLA"fiORMthe oval (the longer distance across the know that you have to change bits fre-oval), the other anchor point controls the quently. To make that easy with this jig, When designing this jig, a major consid-width of the oval (the shorter distance). the router is mounted on a base plate eration was the size of the frame.

The trammel platform has to besmall enough to fit inside a glued-upblank. But it also has to be large enough

NE

TILTING so there will be plenty of track for the

THRDE3D6

R

END SEE guide blocks (C) to travelin (Fig.1).

TLOA

D

F E A Platform (1) ¾ ply - 11% x 11%WASHER B Base (1) ¾ ply - 36 x 48

C Guide Blocks (2) ¾ ply - 1½ x 4

SHIMFR ME D Shims(2) ¼x2-2

DTRAMMEL ARME FrameEnds(2) ¾x¾-10½F FrameSides(2) ¾x¾-8¾G Tilting Base PIt. (1) ¼ hdbd. - 8¾ x 8½H Tilting Base Ends (2) % x ¾-8½

ONG

UTI Pivot Blocks (2) ¾ x 2

- 8½¼" x 2½" AND WASHER

CARRIAGE BOLT HARDWARE SUPPLIES#sx 1¼•Fh (20) No. 8 x 1¼" Fh woodscrews

woooscREWS (2) ¼" x 36" threaded rodsC (4) No. 20 x %" wing nuts

(8) No.20x¼" nuts

BASE(14) 1/4" washers(2) ¼" x2½"carriagebolts

PLATFORM (2) ¼" lock nuts

52 ACCESSORIES

Note: The following measurementswork for the Oval Mirror beginning on g, 7 AUX. FENCE

page 46. But they will also work for sim- 11½

ilar-sized frames.lin

PLATFORM. The trammel platform RIP

(A) is cut from a piece of ¾"-thick ply-FENCE

wood (Fig. 2). After the blank is cut to

size, the next step is to cut the track forthe guide blockS. NOTE:

Here, I took a slightly different PLATFORM ALL FUR S

approach. Instead of cutting the track in (¾"-THICK PLYWOOD) (SEEODFEA

LNa BD DD

a large "X" across the blank, I first cut

¾" rabbets on all four edges of theblank (Fig. 2a). Then I cut the blankinto four equally sized squares (Fig. 3). SAVE FOR

GUIDE BLOCKSNow comes the different approach. I s su

turned the four squares so the rabbetsfaced in. The rabbeted edges then SAVE

create the tracks.ALIGNMENT BLOCKs. To help align 8.

the squares on a base (B), first you cut a 1½

12"-long rabbeted blank (Fig.4). (Later, CUT BLANK BOTH PIECES NEEDEDthis blank becomes the guide blocks.) INTO FOUR FOR POSITIONING

Then cut the blank into two separateEQUAL SQUARES

P F RM5S R6ES 1½

alignment blocks (Fig. 4).MOUNTING. To mount the platform,

first cut a base (B) from ¾"-thick ply- down each of the last squares in the Note: If the guide blocks are too

wood and draw alignment marks on the same manner (Fig. 7). tight in the track, you can lightly sand

base (Fig. 5). Now position the first GUlDE BLOCKS AND SHlMS. To make them as needed for smooth operation.square on the alignment marks and the guide blocks (C), cut the alignment When routing a frame that will be

screw it in place (Fig. 6). block into two 4"-long pieces (Fig. 8). thicker than ¾", you'll need to shim up

Butt the shorter of the two alignment Then drill a centered and counter- the trammel arm so that it rides flat on

blocks up against the square and screw bored hole through each of these guide the surface of the workpiece beinganother square to the base with the block blocks for a carriage bolt (Fig. 8a). routed. For the Oval Mirror, I needed to

snug between the squares (Fig. 6). Now you can just slide the guide blocks place ¼"-thick shims (D) on the guideTo complete the platform, screw into the track. blocks (Figs. 8 and 9).

USE SHORT - POSITION REMAIAUGNMENT BLOCK TO .. SQUARES IN PLACE

BASE POSITION NEXT SQUARE , USING BLOCKS(¾" PLYWOOD -

36" x 48")

DRAWINTERSECTING -CENTERLINES POSITIONPLATFORM

SOUARE IN CORNER 9"-LONG SHORY

OF AUGNMENT MARKS AUGNMENT AUGNMENT(RABBE15 FAG IN) BLOCK BLOCK

S

I E

SUD ID B KS

DRILL ¼"-DIA.SHIM OF WORKPIECE

HOLE CENTEREDON WORKPIECE 4

CUT 9"-LONGALIGNMENT BLOCK ½ WORKPIECE

4 INTO TWO 4"-LONG SAND GUIDEGUIDE BLOCKS \ / BLOCKS AS REQUIRED

FOR SMOOTH OPERATION

OVAL MIRROR 53

TRAMMEL ARMDRILL ¼"-DIA- 8½

After the platform is complete, the next FRAMEHOLES

part to start working on is the trammel SIDE

arm. This arm consists of a router car-riage and two pivot blocks connected bythreaded rods (refer to Fig. 14). Thecarriage supports the router and the yg F PIVOTpivot blocks determine the shape of the BLOCKS

oval. I started on the carriage.8¾ FRAME

CARRIAGE. When routing an oval END

frame with a detailed profile, router bits Fh W OD REW10½

need to be changed frequently. To make ¾" x ¾" SQUARE

this a quick process, the carriage is

designed so that it can be tilted up --

making it a lot easier to get to the collet.The carriage is actually a frame with TILTING ¼"-DIA.

a tilting base to hold the router. To build BASE END HOLEC ETERNR U R

it, start by cutting two ends (E) and tWO BASE PLATE

sides (F) from ¾"-thick stock (Fig. 10).Next, to accept the threaded rods, drill

¼" holes near the ends of each frame end(E). Also drill countersunk holes for thescrews that hold the frame together.

. TILTINGTILTING BASE. After the frame 1S BASE PLATE

screwed together, a tilting base plate 8. L CENTERLINE

(G) can be cut to size from ¼"-thick OF HOLEMARK AND DRILL

hardboard (Fig. 11). ODU NOPEH EGS

To support the base plate within theframe, cut two tilting base ends (H) tosize (Fig. 11). Drill a ¼"-dia. hole for a

threaded rod near one end of each piece. A .

Note: The hole is located ½" upFENCE

from the bottom of the base end - it's FENCE

not centered on the thicknessRIP

'

Finally, the base ends can be glued to'

FENCE

the plate. But first, to keep the bottom of

the plate flush with the bottom of thecarriage frame, rout rabbets along twoedges of the plate (Fig. 11). Then gluethe base ends to the plate.

BIT AND MOUNTING HOLES. Now TILTINGremove the plastic base from your BASE PLATE

router, and use it as a template to locatethe bit and screw holes for mountingyour router to the jig (Fig. 12). p,yo,

NOTCH THE BASE. After the holes are BLOCK

drilled in the base plate, there's one last TILTING ANWNASHER

step on the tilting base before it's com- BASE PLATE

plete. To allow it to sit down on the¼" WING

threaded rod (Fig. 14), a notch has tO NWUAS D

be cut at one end of each base end (H).To do this, I cut a rabbet on the edge

opposite the ¼" hole (Fig. 13).Note: You'll remove some of the

hardboard base plate when doing this.PIVOT BLOCKS. The last parts to

make for the trammel arm are the pivotblocks (I) (Figs. 10 and 14).

After cutting the blocks to size, drill a

hole in the center and two holes throughthe side of each block (Fig. 10).

54 ACCESSORIES

Note: The holes in the sides must (shown as 12½" in Fig. 15) determines Now adjust the pivot blocks soalign with the holes in the frame ends (E). the width across the oval. And the dis- they're the same distance apart as the

ASSEMBLY. Finally, assemble all the tance between the back pivot block and radius differential (6") (see Fig. 15 andwood parts, hardware, and threaded the bit (shown as 18½" in Fig. 15) deter- Adjusting The Trammelbelow).rods for the trammel arm (Fig. 1.6). mines the length across the oval. The last step is to adjust the jig forOnce the arm is completely assembled, AN EXAMPLE. The key setup mea- the size of the oval.Todo this, move theattach the pivot blocks to the guide surements for the jig are obtained from router carriage so the distance betweenblocks with washers and lock nuts. the dimensions of the oval frame you the inside edge of the router bit and the

want to make. With the Oval Mirror, the center of the front pivot block equalsSETTING UP THE jlG overall dimensions of the frame are 25" the radius of the width (12½").

wide and 37" long. (Measure from the center of the car-One thing I like about this oval-cutting The first step is to calculate the shape riage bolt in the front pivot block.)jig is that it can be used to cut ovals of dif- of the oval. To do this, first divide both DIFFERENT FRAMES. If you'referent shapes and sizes. The same jig the width and length by two. This gives designing an oval frame that's signifi-can be used to cut several combinations you the minor and major radii of the oval. cantly different from the Oval Mirror,of tall, short, wide, or narrow ovals. It all (The minor radius is 12½" and the major keep in mind the limitations of a jig builtdepends on how you set it up. radius is 18½" for the Mirror.) Then sub- with the dimensions shown here. It can

When setting up the jig for a partic- tract the smaller number from the larger only cut a certain shape and size frame.ular shape, the distance between the number to come up with the radius dif- The shape of the oval is limited to a

front pivot block and the router bit ferential. (In this case, it's 6".) radius differential of 4" to 6" (Fig. 15).

MEASURE DISTANCEBETWEEN CENTER OF POSITION OF FOR A DIFFERENT SHAPE:

CARRIAGE BOLT AND CARRIAGE CHANGES MOVE FRONT PlVOT ROUTER

INSIDE EDGE OF ROUTER BIT SIZE OF OVAL BLOCK 2" CLOSER TO REAR CARRIAGE

NARROWEST OVAL JIG IS CAPABLE OF ROUTING WIDEST OVAL JIG 15 CAPABLE OF ROUTING

ADjUSTINGTHE TRAMMEL

When setting the radius 2 Once he radus dMeren 3To rout frames with com- 4 So if the carriage anddifferential, make sure to tial is set, measure distance plex profiles, the carriage pivot block are not parallel

use the distance between the between the pivot blocks to must be moved back and to each other you'll need to

centers of the carriage bolts. make sure they're parallel. forth along the threaded rods. adjust the trammel again.

OVAL MIRROR 55

Mantel ClockAt first, your eye will be drawn to the handsome, molded top of this clock. But the sound of the chimestells you there's much more. A look through the glass sides reveals an intricate brass clock movement.

Mien ver since I was a kid, clocks have But there were other details aboutalways held a certain fascination this clock that got me excited about

14¾afor me. I think it has something to building one. Take the top of the case,do with watching all those gears and for example. It looks like a thick, solidlevers move in harmony, ticking off the piece of wood with complicated profilesseconds and striking away the hours. molded on the edges. But in reality, it'sThe problem is that with most clocks, made up of three pieces. And the profilethe mechanism is hidden inside a case. is created with just a router table and ered quartz movement. It's less expen-To me, that's like looking at an automo- some commonly available router bits. sive and you don't ever have to worrybile without being able to open the hood. TRADITIONAL STYLE. And since the about winding it. And because there

That's why I like this clock. The sides top isn't one solid piece, it's easy to cus- isn't much to look at, walnut plywoodare glass so you can see right in to the tomize the Mantel Clock for a simpler, panels are substituted for the glass inbrass clock movement inside. And a more traditional look. See the Designer's the sides (see the Designer's Notebookglass door at the front of the clock pro- Notebook on page 65 for more on this. on page 61).tects the dial but still opens, allowing you QUARTZ MOVEMENT. Another option HARDWARE. For sources of clockto wind the clock and adjust the hands. is to build the clock with a battery-pow- works and hardware, see page 126.

UPPER

EXPLODED VIEW cAPBRASS

HANDLEOVERALL DIMENSIONS:11½W x

71/sDx 14H

LOWERFh W REW

BACKD PANEL

TOP PANEL

DOO CLOC DIAL

SUPPOR

ON

BLOCKMAGNETIC

CATCH

L

FRONT/BACK

D

EERL

E

SIDE RAIL

BASEFRONT

1"x1" BASEBUTT HINGE SIDE

FRONTGLASS PANELSTOP

CUTTINGDIAGRAM/4X7-48

3/4X 7

- 48 WALNUT (2.33 Bd. Ft.)

NOTE: CUT PARTS M FROM WASTE. ALSO NEED ONE2°

x 2' SHEET OF /4" WALNUT PLYWOOD FOR FRONT,AND FILLER PANELS.

WOOD K Door Rails (2) ¾ x 1% -9 (1) Triple-chime movementA Side Rails (4) ¾ x 2

- 3¼ L Door Stiles (2) ¾ x 1% -9¾ (1) 7¾"-dia. punched dial

B Front/Back Stiles (4) ¾x 1% -9¾ M Glass Stop (1) 9/32X

5Í32 - 56 (1 pr.) 3"-long serpentine hands

C Front/Bk. Panels (2) % ply - 8½ x 9% N Support Block (1) ½ x 3-

3 (1) 4½ " ant. br. hdl. w/ thrd. studs & nuts

D Top Panel (1) ¾ x 6% - 11% (1) ½"-dia. antique brass knobE Base Front/Back (2) ¾ x 1½ - 11½ HARDWARE SUPPLIES (1) Mini brass knobF Base Sides (2) ¾ x 1½ - 7½ (4) No. 2 x %" Rh brass woodscrews (1 pr.) 1

"x 1

" antique brass hingesG Base Panel (1) ¾x 63/s - 10¾ (4) No. 4 x%" Rh brass woodscrews (1) ¾e"-dia. magnetic catch

H Fi\\er Panels (2) % ply - cut to fit (4) No. 8 x 3½" Fh woodscrews (4) %" brass turnbuttonsI Lower Cap (1) ¾ x 5¾- 10½ (8) No. 8 x 1½" Fh woodscrews (2) ½" glass panels (sides) - 2%" x 6¼"J UpperCap(1) ¾x4-8% (32) No.18x%" wirebrads (1) ½" glasspanel(front)-7%" x7¾"

MANTEL CLOCK 57

SIDES4¾ NOTE: BUILT-IN MOLDING

MUST BE TRIMMEDBEFORE CUTTING MORTISES

I thought the beautiful brass movement (SEE SHOP JIG ON PAGE 59)

of this Mantel Clock shouldn't beNOTE: RAILS AND

hidden. So to focus attention on the STILES ARE ¾" THICK

mechanical workings of the clock, I 3¼

added glass panels to the sides of thecase. This gives a clear view inside. 1¾

I built the clock from the center out.In other words, I started with the sideassemblies, then added the front andback panels, and sandwiched all of thisbetween the top and bottom panelS- SIDE

The sides of the clock are made up of RAIL

rails and stiles joined by ordinary mor-tise and tenon joints. At first glance, it

s BACKreally doesn't look very fancy. STILE

But, since each of the workpieces UB

that make up the sides are small, I 'a. FR NET

decided to add molded edges around +1¼the rails and stiles. This way, the inside 1¾

edges of the rails and stiles create a

"frame" around the glass. 14Because of the way the molding is

made, this also means that you'll have to

do a little trimming and fitting to get thepieces to fit together. Plus you'll need to

NOTE: TENONS ARE CENTEREDadd stops on the inside to hold the à / ON THICKNESS OF RAILS

glass. But all of that comes later.RAILS AND STILES. To start, I cut the

blanks for the rails (A) and the stiles (B) To make the rabbet that holds the Before you can start working on theto width from 3/4"-thick stock (Figs. 1 glass, I switched to the table saw. Using mortise and tenon joints, however,and 1a). I left the blanks slightly longer a ¾" dado blade buried slightly in an there's another detail to tend to.

than needed for the time being. auxiliary fence, I was able to cut a nice, In order to allow the rails to fit tightlyThen the molded edge is created on clean rabbet to the back edge of the against the stiles, you'll have to trim off

the router table (Figs. 2 and 2a). Set the molding (Figs. 3 and 3a). part of the molded edges at the ends of

fence so that it aligns with the outside TRIM MOLDING. Now that all the each stile. (Later on, some more trim-edge of the pilot bearing of a ¼" roundoversand rabbets have been com- ming will be done to the molding edges,roundoverbit, raising it enough to leave pleted, you can trim the rails and stiles so I left just enough extra here to createa

1/16" shoulder on the workpiece. to finished length (Figs. 1 and 1a). a small miter.)

ROUT ROUNDOVERS"

AITACH AUXIUARYON © ¾ STim FENCE 10 RIP FENCE

REMOVEMOLDED

ROUND-OVER

B1T

SECOND:DRILL MORTISE

DADOBLADE

DR LL END VIEWEND VIEW y, END VIEW BIT

¼• ROUND- LOVER BITRIP AUX. FENCE

FENCE FENCE B

58 ACCESSORIES

Trimming the built-in moldmg canbe done with a table saw by making sev-

eral passes over a dado blade. But INLAERY

wanted a shoulder that wouldn't take a

lot of time to clean up, so I used thetable saw and a simple jig that holds theworkpiece upright while making the 'cut. For more on how to do this, see theShop Jig below.

MORTISEs. After the molding on thestiles has been trimmed, I went to thedrill press and removed the bulk of the a.waste for the mortises. Then I used a

sharp chisel to square the ends andclean up the sides of each of the mor-tises (Figs.4 andía).

TENONs. With the mortises made,Il

you can now cut the tenons on the rails . DADO BLADEto fit (Figs. 5 and sa). Again, I used a i9dado blade - partially buried in an aux-iliary fence on my table saw - to makethese cuts. One other thing - on these pieces joints can actually be fitted together. As

Note: I used a scrap piece of ply- you don't have to worry about trimming I mentioned earlier, the ends of thewood as a push block while cutting the back the molded edges on the rails, molded edges must be mitered at

45°to

tenons. The push block suppor ts the since they will be removed when you cut allow the rails and stiles to fit together.small workpieces when cutting the the tenon shoulders (Figs. 6 and 6a). To miter these edges, I made a simpletenons, and also helps prevent tearout Finally, there is some trimming to be jig. (For more on this jig, see the Shopon the back side of the cut. done before the mortise and tenon Jig on page 60).

oth the side and door frames on the would've left score lines. So to get a clean fence without any slop (see drawing). (I

Mantel Clock feature mor tise and shoulder, I used a tenon jig, standing the cut dadoes in the face pieces to make it

tenon construction with built-in moldings pieces on end (see photo below). easy to assemble the jig.) Then I added(see the photo on page 56). But before The tenon jig used here consists of a vertical stop along the back edge to

you can cut the mor tises, part of the built- two face pieces and two crosspieces. (I support the workpiece and keep itin molding has to be removed. used medium-density fiberboard, also square to the table.

I could've done this by making mul- known as MDF.) The crosspieces are Usually when cutting tenons, I placetiple passes with a dado blade, but this sized so the jig slides easily along the the face of the workpiece against the

face of the jig. But to cut away the built-in molding, you'll need to set the out-

7

a.'

side edge of the piece against the face of3/4 VERTICAL y the jig. It's also a good idea to sneak up

CROSSPIECE12

STOP FRONT on the cut so you don't leave any sawsEGIWON

VER ICALmarks on the workpiece.

STOP

RIPFE CE

FENCE

NOTE:POSITION SCREW

POSITION ABOVE HIGHESTCROSSPIECE TO BIADE SETTING

CLEAR FENCE

MANTEL CLOCK 59

Evenafteryou'vecutthemortisesandThe jig is easy to make using 3/4" and clamp it in place (Fig. 2). Thentenons for the Mantel Clock sides MDF - there are only three parts secure the workpiece into a bench vise.

(and door), these pieces still won't fit (Fig. 2a). First, a spacer is glued Now you can carefully pare thetogether. That's because the built-in between two guide rails. This forms a molding with a sharp chisel. To do this,molding along the inside edge needs to pocket for your pieces to fit into. Then hold the chisel flat against the miteredbe mitered (Fig.1). the jig is mitered on one end. About the center portion of the jig, then slice

The secret to doing this without mar- only thing critical for the jig is that the down until you have cut away a smallring the workpiece is a simple, shop- spacer matches the thickness of the piece of the molding. The goalis for themade jig (Fig. 2). It fits over the pieces pieces you're trimming. rails and stiles to fit together tight. So

and guides your chisel as you miter the To use the jig to miter the molded it's a good idea to sneak up on the cut so

ends of the molding. edges, simply set it over a frame piece you don't end up with a gap.

1

aM

R

TRIM MO

STH

S

G DE

UNTIL RAIL AND ALSTILE FIT TIGHT \ /

GROOVES FOR PANELS. The time you rabbet can be cut along the back edge of FRONT & ßACK PANELSspend fitting the mortise and tenon each frame to hold the ¼"-thick ply-joints will pay off in the next step - wood back (Fig. 7). The two side frames are connected bygluing the side pieces up to create two HINGE MORTISEs. Once that is com- two ¼" plywood panels (C) (Fig. 8)."frames." Once this is done, you can plete, the next step will be to cut the Both panels are identical in size, but thestart making the grooves for the front mor tises for the hinges (Fig. 8). It's front panel has several holes drilled in itand back panels that will connect the true that the door will be one of the last to accommodate the hand shaft andtwo sides. parts added to the clock, but it's a lot winding arbor for the clock movement.

Setup for these grooves is very easier to cut the mortises for the door Note: My clock works had a stem forsimple. Start by mounting a ¼" dado hinges at this stage, before the sides are the hands, stems to adjust the time, andblade in the table saw and adding a sandwiched between the top and a key hole for winding the spring. Theregroove near the front edge of each bottom assemblies. is also a slot for a lever used to select oneframe to hold the 1/4"-thick plywood To do this, I clamped one of the sides of three differentchimes.front panel (Fig. 7a). in a woodworkingvise and used one of I used a pre-punched dial face to lay

Then change to a ¾" dado blade, and the hinges as a template for laying out out the holes in the front panel. (Foronce again use an auxiliary fence to the mortises. Then I carefully chiseled sources of dials that are pre-punched,hide a portion of the blade. Now a outeachmortise. seepage126.) Layingouttheholesin

4¾

phanne

ce

inlg

i

amc

an e

SECOND: FENCE 9 marking out the hole locations (Fig. 8a).ET Then with the dial removed, drill the

PANEL holes slightly oversize. (This allows for

NOTE: CUT GROOVE AND RABBET some adjustment later on.)TO MATCH THICKNESS OF ¼" PLYWOOD To make the slot on the right side of

4¾ gg the dial for the chime selector lever, I

simply drilled a series of overlappingholes and then used a small file to cleanup the edges (Fig. 8).

PLG oooo on If you have difficulty locating a dialthat is pre-punched, you'll need to use

60 ACCESSORIES

2 xR

S

WOODSCREW BACKPANEL

. . FRONT N PLACEUsing the mechanical movement with PANELTO

your clock, requires a key pre-punched olESdíal, and chime rods. Also needed are NOVE

C/OCk hands and hardware. DI AL TODRILL \

HOLES CH ME

the actual clock works as a template tosEL TOR

lay out the holes and slot on the back of 'g'USE DIAL AS

LOCNAGEE

the dial first. (Sources for clock workS ? TEMPLATE MORTISFS

can be found on page 126.) Then care- ogs*°" SPi°Ëfully drill and file the holes in the dial. FRONT

BOTTOM

ASSEMBLY. TO assemble these pieces, PANEL

glue the front panel into the grooves cut )

on the side frames. The back paneldoesn't get glued to the sides, but I didset it in place just to keep everything DEPTEH

square. A couple of band clamps will \ SHOULD MATCHBARREL OF HINGEhold the pieces while the glue dries.

DKSIGNEWS NOTEB OKA quartz movement and plywoodpanels make this version of the clock much more affordable.

CONSTRUCTION N TES: a The quartz movement that I used hasa separate electronic chip and speaker

a Should you plan on using a quartz for the "chimes." In order to allow themovement in your clock, there are a sound from the speaker to "escape," I

couple of things you need to know drilled a number of small (1/ie"-dia.)before you start building. holes in the back panel of the clock (see

For one thing, since quartz move- drawing). Then I mounted the speakerments don't need winding, you'll only to the back panel using the screws andneed to make one hole in the front panel retaining ring supplied with the quartz(for the hand shaft). It will also be much clock movement.easier to find a clock face for this move-ment, since only one hole is necessary.a Since there won't be very much to

look at inside theclock once the quartzmovement is installed, •

:

the glass panels on thesides of the clock casecan easily be replaced

SPEAKER onlu with plywood panels.These two 174"-thick

GLUE RETAINI IN BAm panels are glued into Quartz Clock. The quartz movementthe openings on either shown has a speaker for authentic-

ENING side, where the glass sounding chimes. A dial face, clockgoes in the regular hands, and mounting hardware are alsoclock design. needed to complete the project.

MANTEL CLOCK 61

TOP & BASE Q.

The sides, front, and back panels make SIDE CTION1V

up the "middle" of the clock. Thisassembly is then sandwiched between a #8 x 1½

Fh WOOD SCREW e y

base and a top. FRON

TOP. The top of the clock looks like itEDGE

might have been made on a shaperusing a massive molding cutter. But it's 7,

i w4 'b

actually built up out of three separate END VIEW

layers - a wide top panel and a two-piece cap. And the profile is made with a

FILLERHPANEL

series of router bits (five in all).To start, (V4"-PLYWOODCUT TO FIT)

I made the top panel and base assembly,since they're attached to the sides of theclock. Later, I added the cap.

The top panel (D) is just a piece of (, END VIEW¾"-thick stock with ½2" ogees routed , ,,on all four edges (Figs. 9 and 9b). Thechallenge here is to rout the edgeswithout any chipout. And to help with 'Is

this, it's best to start by routing the endsof the panel first.

I also used a router to create therounded lip above the ogee that wasadded to the top panel. But instead of

H d. SIDE CTION

routing the workpiece, I used a ¼"-dia.core box bit to make a sanding block.Then I simply rounded over the lip withsandpaper (Figs. 10 and 10a). Oncethat was done, I screwed the top panel 1½

to the sides of the clock (Fig. Pa).BASE. Like the top panel, the base

panel is also a piece of ¾"-thick stock.But this panel is supported by a frame

11½

made up of four pieces. Together, the E

frame and base panel create a raised ç"afNET

"platform" for the clock. NOTE:I started by making the base frame. ¡OPE SAANRDE

The base front/back (E) and base sides #sx 1½ ¾" THICK

(F) are cut from a single long blank. Fh WOODSCREWBASE

The blank is ripped to width and then SIDE

one edge is rounded over, leaving a

small ½6" shoulder (Fig. 9c).Next, the individual base pieces are To lock the base panel (G) into the is routed on the top edge (Figs. 11

mitered to length and glued up to make base frame, rabbets are cut on all four and 11a). After the panel is glued to thea base frame (Fig. 9). bottom edges (Fig. 9d). Then a ¼" cove frame, the base is screwed to the sides.

11

8. END VIEW

SANDPAPER

CREATE PROFILE WITH¼"-DIA. CORE BOX BIT

62 ACCESSORIES

FILLER PANELS. Before moving on to NOTE: DRILL CENTERED

making the top caps, I glued a couple ofHOL ,

AACED AONLEESLINHCAPUA D TOP8. SIDE VIEW

filler panels (H) to the inside of the clock 3m· APART THREADED STUDS FROMHANDLE TO ALIGN PIECES 5¾ ¡

at the top and bottom (Fig. 9). These UPPER/ 4 |

panels are cut to fit the inside of the clock. CAP LOWER I

They serve as stops for the back panel. CAP y

CAP. All that remains to complete thei a

case of the clock is to add the cap to the ytop of the clock. The cap is made up of 10½ |

two ¾"-thick pieces, each with a dif°BRAD

ferent profile routed on its edge. Theprofiles look a bit complex, but again, a

couple of router bits will do the job.I made the lower cap (I) first (Fig. 12).

The profile on this piece consists of a ½"roundover above a shallow cove. Tomake this profile, I cut the roundover first 13(Figs. 13 and 13a). In order to do this,you'll have to stand the workpiece onedge on the router table. To provide a

little more support and to prevent theworkpiece from tilting, I used the fence,even though the bit has a bearing.

After cutting the roundover, rout thecove using a ¼" core box bit (Figs. 14

and 14a). This time you can place theworkpiece down flat. But you'll still needto use the fence as a bearing surface. 14

UPPER CAP. The steps for routing theprofile on the upper cap (J) are similar,but the bits are different sizes. A ¾" coveis routed along each edge (Figs. 15

and 15a). Then a ¼" roundover is routedon the top edge, again holding the work-piece on edge (Figs. 16 and 16a).

The overall thickness of the top of -Rthe clock is nearly 2½" (longer thanmost drill bits). Because of this, I

decided to drill the holes for the handle from side to side and front to back. But sanded both sides of each cap (just likeof the clock before gluing the cap in there's a couple of tricks to achieving a you would lap the sole of a hand plane).place. I drilled a pair of holes in the good result when doing this. When it was time to glue the piecesupper cap, then transferred the hole Before starting to glue the pieces together, I used small brads to preventlocations to the lower cap and then to together, stack them up and check the the pieces from slipping under the pres-the top of the clock (Fig. 12). fit. If you can see gaps around the sure of the clamps. Just drive a few brads

ASSEMBLY. Assembling the caps is edges, the pieces aren't flat. To flatten partially into the top of the top panel andsimply a matter of gluing them to the them out, I placed a sheet of sandpaper the lower cap. Then snip off the heads,topoftheclock,thencenteringthem on top of my table saw and lightly leavingabout¼"ofeachbrad(Fig.12).

16

FENCE

F

END VIEW

MANTEL CLOCK 63

DOOR & HARDWARE g NOTE: DOOR-- yNOO SDOH

RAIELS N SOTLLES

Now that the clock case is finished, all"sŠEAENND HT ¾"-THICK STOCK

that's left is to build the door and add the AND BOTTOM

glass, hardware, and clock movement.The construction of the door is sim-

ilar to the construction of the sides of

the clock. The door rails (K) and stiles(L) each have a molded profile routedon the inside edge. And the rails are DooR

mortised into the stiles. But there are a 97

RAIL

couple of differences.First, the molded profile is slightly dif- L

ferent. Instead of a roundover, I routed 000R,

an ogee on the edge of each door pieceafter cutting it to width (Fig. 17a).

Then after cutting the rabbets for theglass, the door pieces can be cut to fin-ished length (Fig. 17).

Note: I sized the door pieces to fit theNOTE: MORTISES 9

clock opening exactly. Later, after the AND TENONS ARE

door is assembled, the top and bottOm TCENCTENREE5D5OON

STOCK ASSEMB YRIMA

AND BOTTOM OF DOORedges can be trimmed to create a gap· To CREATE ½2" CLEARANCE GAP

The other difference is in the mor-tise and tenon joints. Because the door a. 4,, b.will be subjected to more twisting and LASS /4

racking than the sides of the clock, I GLASS

made the tenons a bit longer (Fig. 17b).Otherwise, the mor tise and tenon jointsare made in the same manner. And like °oFEELE

NOTE: MITER ENDS

the rails and stiles on the sides, you'll 5/n- OF MOLDED EDGESTO

have to miter the molded edges on the i / FIT PIECES TOGETHER

door pieces (Fig. 17b).When the joinery is finished, the

door can be glued up. (Make sure to sides of the clock. These stops are ½2" clock, I pre-drilled holes in the glasscheck the door for square when wide and ¾2" thick. After the pieces are stops for the brads.clamping it together.) cut to length, they are nailed in place HANGING THE DOOR. With the

GLASS STOPs. While the glue is behind the glass (Figs. 18 and 19). But glass in place, you're just about readydrying, you can make the glass stops since the pieces are so small and there to hang the door. But there are a

(M) for the glass panels in the door and isn't much room to work inside the couple of things to take care of first.

BACK SIDE gOF DOOR ,,

GLASSNOTE:CENTER GLASS

NNOB STOP

HEIGHTOF DOOR OGEE

PROFILE #18 x%"½"-DIA. By BRAD

NOTE:PRE-DRILLHOLES INGLASS

DRILL STOPCOUNTER- FOR BRADSBOREFORKNOB

GLASS AND(7½" x 74") STRIKE

PLATE

64 ACCESSORIES

To start, you'll need to trim the top and

bottom of the door to create a slight(1/32") gap between the door and the HING

HANDLE

case of the clock. Second, you'll need tog#h4

drill a couple of countersunk screw woooscREW

holes for the door knob and the strikeplate of the catch (Fig. 186). Once this is

done, you can mount the hinges on the DRILL

door and the side of the clock and then TURN-

DHOAÍ.E,

install the rest of the hardware - the BUTTON NN EPNOOXY

door knob, magnetic catch, and handle. IN PLACE

INSTALLINGTHE MOVEMENT. Next, to

install the clock movement, screw the -

dial to one side of the front panel and the

movement to the other side (Fig. 20). a,When positioning the movement, checkto see that the hand shaft and windingarbors are centered in the dial holes.

"°

With the movement in place, set thechime rods inside the clock to deter-mine their position. In order to raise the

chime rods just below the level of thehammers, I had to make a chime rod #sx «

Fh WOODSCREWsupport block (N). It's just a piece of ,,

stock cut to match the size of the chime Fh W CREWCROSS SECTION y

rod base. I lightly chamfered the topedges of the block and then drilled a

couple of countersunk screw holes on the block to the bottom of the clock case added to the back to make it easier to

the underside of the block for the from underneath the clock (Fig. 20a). take on and off (Fig. 20). Then, four

mounting screws. With the chime rods BACK. The back of the clock also gets turnbuttons are added to the sides of the

screwed to the block, I then screwed some hardware. First, a mini-knob is clock to hold the back panel in place. -

DKSIGNWSN• • *KSimplifying the top and curving the base of the clock gives it a cleaner, more traditional look

CONSTRUCTIONNOTES:m Making this clean, traditional version . Iay out a curve on the base frontof the clock is simple, but you could also molding using the template (Fig. 2).

change the movement or the type of Then use a jig saw (or band saw) to cut

glass in the sides to change the look. the curve, and sand up to the line.a Build the side assemblies and front a Assemble the clock, counterboring and

and back panels as before. Be sure to plugging the screws in the top panel.add the hinge mortises to the sides and

drill holes for the clock works before w cOVE

adding the panels.m The top panel (D) has the same ogee

routed on the bottom edges, but now TRADITIONAinstead of adding the caps and handle, I o E

TOP PROFN.E CLOCKrouted a ½" cove in the top edge (Fig.1).

5¾

MATERIALS LISTNOTE: DRAW HALF

TEM TLORND NO NEW OR CHANGED PARTS

USING ¼" GRIDNote: Do not need parts I, J. Also do notneed the 4½ " antique brass handle withthreaded studs and nuts.

MANTEL CLOCK 65

ClassicFramesAt first glance, it may be hard to believe that these frames were made in a home workshop.But all you need to make each of them is a table saw to cut coves and a router to shape the moldings.

ver the years, I've made a good the saw at an angle, you can create a Here the use of two different coves

number of frames. But none of wide variety of coves. offers some interesting challenges.them have been quite like the And if this technique sounds a bit CRAFTSMAN-STYLE OAK FRAME. The

ones you see in the photograph above. odd or unfamiliar, don't worry. I've third and last frame design is stronglyMost of the frames I've made in the past included a separate article on how to do influenced by the Arts and Crafts move-were built up from small, narrow mold- it starting on page 74. (You'll want to ment. The use of quarter-sawn whiteingsofvariousroutedprofiles. take a look at that article before oakcomplementsthistimelessstyle,

However, these frames all feature building your frames.) but just about any wood will do.

wide, sweeping coves that really set the ELEGANT CHERRY FRAME. The first of MOUNTING. One other thing. I'dframes off. But more interesting than the frames is made of cherry (the strongly suggest that you have yourhow they look is how these coves are bottom frame in the photo above). The print, artwork, or whatever else you'remade. It may surprise you. design for this frame makes the mirror framing matted and ready to go before

No, they're not made using a router. look as if it's rising out from the wall. you build the frames. This way, you can

Instead I used my table saw to hollow CLASSIC WALNUT FRAME. Then you'll make sure that your print and glass willout the coves. And it's really not too dif- learn how to build the top frame in the fit the opening of your frame. For moreficult. By pushing the workpiece over photo above. It's made from walnut. on this, see the Technique on page 75.

66 ACCESSORIES

FRONT OF SAW

CLAMP FENCESAT

45° ANGLETO BLADE

TILTBLADE

CENTE 45°TRIM EDGES/BLANKTO CREATE /

END VIEW .END VIEW

FRAME PROFILE- 10" B DE

78 LARGE BEADMOLDING

4 SPACER

$_ MIRROR. I purchased the mirror for overall width is the width of the shoul-2 ½

SMMAOLLLD D

this frame at a local home improvement ders on either side of the cove (Fig. 3a).center and built the frame to fit around it. The last step to complete the cove

½ The Cherry Frame is unique because molding is to rip bevels along all fourit has two bead moldings. But before get- edges. These bevels aren't difficult to

3½ i ting into how to do this, first take a look make. I simply tilt the saw blade 30° andat the main section of the frame. re-position the fence for each cut. But

COVE. This frame has a wide, shallow the important thing is to rip the bevels in

ELEGANT CHERRY FRAME cove which you'll see is slightly asym- a specific sequence.This way, the work-metrical (Fig. 1). So to make this cove, piece will have at least one flat surface to

This frame is designed so the outer edge you'll first have to tilt the blade as well rest against the fence (or the table)rests flat against the wall, giving the as set up angled fences to guide the during each cut (Figs. 4 through 7).center of the frame a raised-panel look. workpiece (Fig. 2). The fences are posi- Note: To rip the last bevel you'll

My Cherry Frame is not used to tioned at a45° angle to the blade, and need to move your rip fence over to the

frame a piece of art. Instead, I used it to the blade is tilted 45°. For more on cut- opposite side of the saw blade (Fig. 7).frame a mirror. Construction is the same ting asymmetrical coves using the table Once you've completed the coves,either way. But, it goes to show that you saw, see the Technique on page 74. they need to be sanded smooth. (For a

don't have to be framing artwork to try Next, trim the workpiece to its final tip on how to sand coves easily, see theyour hand at these frames. width. But more important than the Shop Tip on page 73.)

ATTACH TALL AUXILIARY LAY WORKPIECE DOWN ON ,

FENCE TO RIP FENCE REMOVE AUXILIARY FLAT SIDE TO MAKE NEXT CUT ,FENCE, FLIP WORKPIECE

END AND MAKE NEXT CUT 21½s

VIEWTILT

BLADE30°

VIEW

END VIEWTILT TILT

BLADE BLADE30 30°

END VIEW

2½ TILT30LADE

I I \

s DE FB D OR S UT

CLASSIC FRAMES 67

LARGE BEAD MOLDING. With all thebevels ripped and the pieces sanded,the next step is to create the large beadmolding that is attached to the insideedge of the frame. I used a roundoverbit in the router table to make the beadon this piece, leaving a slight shoulderon one edge (Fig. 8). Then rout a rabbetalong the opposite edge (Fig. 9). Thisallows the bead molding to "seat" a aEND VIEgg RAISE BIT END VIEWagainst the inside edge of the frame. TO CREATE

After the large bead molding is com- I! |

SHOULDER V16

pleted, it can be glued to the frame ya

pieces. Because the rabbet in the beadmolding helps to position it on the edge '

of the frame, all you have to do is find a

way to hold it in place while the gluedries. I used rubber bands with a lengthof 1"-dia. dowel underneath them to

concentrate the clamping pressurewhere I wanted it (Fig. 10). complete. To create a rabbet on the tangular piece that is glued to the inside

Next you'll want to miter the frame inside of the frame to hold the mirror, I corner of the bead molding and edge of

pieces, but there's still one more step to added a spacer. This is just a small, rec- the frame (Figs. 11 and 11a).

CLAMP TRIM IN PLACE O SPAŒWITH RUBBER BANDS ypyg o

LARGEBEAD MOLD a.

SPACER

() GLUE SPACERTO FRAMEAND TRIM

PLACE DOWELUNDER RUBBER BANDS

TO DIRECT CLAMPING PRESSURE

T'hisassembly jig consists of four rec- bling each part of the jig is to use a When gluing and clamping the

tangular scraps, each with four framing square to make sure it will hold frames, the band clamp fits against the

dowels (Fig. 1). The key when assem- the frame pieces square (Fig. 1a). bottom of the dowels, and these dowels"capture" the top of the frame, keepingthe pressure centered and keeping the

½"-DIA. frame from falling apart.HARDWOOD ¾"

DOWEL MDF

a' '

ASSEM81.EFRAME WFTH BAND

CI.AMP AND JtG

5 5

NOTE:MAKE FOUR 8

BLOCKS FORASSEMBLY JIG TOP VIEW

68 ACCESSORIES

MITER FRAME. Once the glue is dry,you can miter the frame pieces to a.length. You'll need to construct a sled to FIRSE CUT CUT MOLDING

2"-WIDE FROM BLANKhold the frame molding while cutting BLANK FROM AFTER ROUTING

the compound miters. For more on how¼· STOCK

to do this, see the Shop Jig on page 71· WASTEAfter you've carefully mitered the

frame pieces, glue them together usinga band clamp and a simple clamping jig. ½ RE ND-

For more details on this, see the ShopJig on the previous page.

Once the glue is dry, the cornersshould be reinforced with 4d finishnails. I drilled holes for the nails to pre

USE SPACER STRIPSvent them from splitting the wood of the To uFT FRAME

frame (refer to Fig. 8 on page 73). GENTLY CLAMP BEAD MOLDINGTO OUTSIDE EDGESNote: I also staggered the nails to OF FRAME

prevent them from hitting each other. a.At this point, the frame is almost SMALL

complete. The only thing left to add is a M L NG

small bead molding all around the out-side edge of the frame. Not only doesthis soften the edges of the frame, but it

also covers up the finish nails that youused to reinforce the corners.

SMALL BEAD MOLDING. There'snothing out of the ordinary when it

comes to making the small beadmolding. As you can see, I started with ASSEMBLY. After the bead moldingsan extra-wide, ¼"-thick blank (Fig. 12). have been mitered to length, they canUsing a ½"-radius roundover bit, I be glued to the outside edges of therounded over all four edges of the blank. frame. To hold them in place, I simplyThen I switched over to the table saw clamped across the frame with severaland ripped the moldings from the blank. bar clamps (Fig. 13). But in order to

Note: Make sure you use a push center the clamping pressure directlyblock when cutting the moldings. on the bead molding, I placed ¾"-thick

The bead molding is mitered to spacer strips underneath the frame to

length to fit around the frame. In order to elevate it (Fig. 13a).help fit the molding, I mitered the end of Once the glue was dry, I sprayed ona scrap piece and clamped it to a corner a few coats of lacquer. But for anof the frame. This gave me something to entirely different look, you might wantbutt the molding up against as I fitted to try an alternative finish like the oneseach piece (refer to Fig. 11a on page 73.) discussed in the Finishing Tip below.

NNISHING TIP.....................seBhesta nine aodr aerne tng

cd nratcacnadnachievea

visible portions of thetrim before applying Contrasting colors. This creates a subtle Two-tone effect. Here the visible portionsthem to the main por- look. Themoldingsare finishednaturalwhile of the trim were painted black before theytion of the f rame. the main portion of the frame is stained. were applied to the cove molding.

CLASSIC FRAMES 69

FRONT OF SAW

a. TAKE SHALLOW CUTSUNTIL COVE IS

CLAMP FENCES ¼" DEEP

AT38° ANGLEdi TO BLADE 2 y4

38

10" SAW BLADESET AT

90°

BLADE IS

SET AT 90

½

FE E PROFILE -

1¾

I DE

AONG

FEED WORO

2¾ ·BLADE

CLASSIC WALNUT FRAME - - - a

With the Classic Walnut Frame, I beganexperimenting a bit by combining a

couple of different coves to create aEND VIEW END VIEW

more complex profile (Fig. 1)· CMOAKEE ECDENED

COVEs. First, I cut a shallow covedown the center (roughly) of the work-piece (Figs. 2 and 2a). Then to make it

easier to position the second cove, trimone side of the blank, leaving a 1"-wideshoulder (Fig. 3).

The second cove is cut by setting thefences at

15° and tilting the blade 30° After cutting the second cove, you can In order to create a flat spot for the(Fig. 4). But you'll have to pay more trim the other edge of the blank (Fig. 5). frame to rest against the wall, the nextattention when positioning the fences for To create the rounded edge of the step is to rip a couple of bevels along thethis cove. In order to get the second cove molding, use a roundover bit on the square edge of the molding. Theseto line up with the first cove, you'll need router table (Fig. 6). Rout one side, then bevels meet at a 90°angle (Figs. 7 and 8).

to position the first fence 1" away from flip the blank over and rout along the Once these bevels are cut, the work-the leading edge of the blade (Fig. Ja). other side to complete the full roundover. pieces can be sanded smooth.

'TRIM EDGE OF MOLDING ¾ i e i

i ROUND OVER EDGE'

TO CREATE ¾"-WIDE SHOULDER ' ' I 1 I i | OF MOLDING

¾" ROUNDOVER BIT

MOVE FENCE TO OPPOSITE SIDE

NOTE: ATTACH TALL OF BLADE AND TRIM OFF WASTE' AUXILIARY RIP FENCE

TILT IF NEEDEDBLADE

30°

70 ACCESSORIES

BEAD MOLDING. After sanding every-BEAD MOmlNG

thing smooth, I added a rabbet on the . BLANK

edge of the molding to hold the picture. . GROO EDSEDOWN

Because it's difficult (and unsafe) to OUND- OF BLANK

cut a rabbet on such a small piece of OfT SECOND:molding, I start with an extra-wide ÑOMMO

blank and rout roundovers on all fouredges (Fig. 9). Next, use a dado blade a. END VIEW END VIEWto cut a couple of grooves at each edge "^6

of the blank (Fig. 10). Then, all youhave to do is flip the blank over, switchto a regular saw blade, and rip themolding free (Fig. 10a).

Because of the profile of the frame I -7

molding, I made a special jig to hold thebead molding and frame pieces togetherwhile gluing and clamping (Fig. 11). ASSEMBLY. Because of the angles and Once the glue has dried, you can drill

COMPOUND MITERS. After the bead the profile of this frame, clamping it up some small pilot holes and reinforceis attached to the molding, you're ready is difficult. A band clamp alone tends to each corner of the frame with a couple of

to miter the frame pieces to length. But pull the miter joints apart as it's tight- 4d finish nails. Just be careful to positiononce again, since the molding for this ened. So to support the corners and the nails so they don't "blow out" of theframe doesn't sit flat, you'll have to use keep the joints tightly closed, I put the front or back face of the frame.the sled described in the Shop Jig below clamping jig used with the Cherry After applying a finish to the frame,to hold it in position while cutting the Frame to use again. See this jig and how just fill the nail holes in the corners of themiters (Fig. 12). to make it on page 68. frame with wood filler (or wood putty).

SET MITERGAUGE AT 45

U5E SLEDTO MITER

USE JIG TO CLAMP PIECESMOLDING IN PLACE

1

TO LENGTH SET BLADE

Sincethe picture frame moldings for LENGTH TO

the Cherry and Walnut Frames SUIT FRAME PIECES

don't sit flat, fitting the pieces togethermeans cutting a compound miter. MAKE SLED OUT OF

- PLYWOOD AND 1An easy way to cut a compound unter HARDBOARD *

on a table saw is to leave the blade at90°

MDIUNG WRHILE

and tilt the workpiece. But, the trick toI cUTTING MITERS

doing this is to hold the workpiece at

the same angle that it will be when theframe is assembled. END VIEW

To do this, I use a simple sled made 3

out of plywood and hardboard (seedrawing). The sled attaches to my mitergauge. Alip on the front of the sled helpshold the workpiece in the proper posi- WIDT T

DINGtion while cutting the miters (detail'a').

CLASSIC FRAMES 71

CRAFTSMAN-STYLEOAK cove in multiple passes, taking shallowFRAME (1/16") cuts, until the cove has reachedthe full cove width of 1½" (Fig. 2a).

The Oak Frame is probably the sim- When you've finished cutting theplest of the three frames, since it's flat coves, trim the workpieces down toand doesn't require any compound their final width. The thing to watch formiters. I made my frame out of quarter- here is that the shoulders on either sidesawn white oak, but just about any of the cove end up being the propernicely figured wood will do. width (Fig. 3).

Start by cutting the ¾"-thick blanks CHAMFER. Now take a look at thefor the frame to rough size. I made my small profile drawing of the moldingblanks 4" wide and about 9 to 10" longer (refer to Fig. 1). You'll notice that thethan my matted print. This way, you can top inside edge of the workpiece (thetrim the frame pieces to exact width and shorter of the two flat edges) has a

lÑmiter them to length after you've cre- chamfer. I made this chamfer on theated the profile. router table (Fig. 4).

CUT covEs. To cut the cove, set up a While you're at the router table, thispair of fences on your table saw at a

30°is also a good time to cut a rabbet on the

angle to the blade (Fig. 2). Again, refer back side of the frame. The rabbet willFRAME PROFILE to the Technique on page 74 for details hold the glass and picture. To do this,

on how to do this. You want to position simply change over to a straight bit andTRIM' i the fences so the cove will be roughly flip the workpiece over (Fig.5).centered on the blank. SAND COVES. Before going any fur-

Note: Unlike the first two frames, ther, you'll probably want to take somethe blade here should be square (90°) time to sand the coves smooth. This can

'to the table to cut the cove for this par- be done many ways, but I decided toticular frame piece. As before, cut the make my own "custom-made" foam

sanding block. (For more informationon how to make this sanding block, see

cE. END CENTER COVE'

the Shop Tip on the next page.) I

VIEW ON BLANK started out with 80-grit sandpaper to417/s remove the roughest marks and then

worked my way up through 100, 120,and 150-grit papers.

CUT COVE WITH MITER PIECES. Once all the sanding isA 5ERIES OF

LIGHT PASSES 10" SAW BLADE done, you can miter the pieces to lengthSET AT

90° (Fig. 6). There are a couple of things to

be aware of here. First, you obviouslywant the miters to fit together nicely. So

spend some time setting up andchecking your miter gauge.

TRIFMB NGES, ROUT Vs" CHAMFER Second, you want to make sure thatWASTE WASTE ON EDGE OF'

WORKPIECE you're cutting the pieces to the correct/* 'Is

sy, length so that when the frame is assem-bled, your glass and print will fit in theopening in the back. For some tips ondoing this, turn to the Technique for-L mounting and hanging on page 75.

ASSEMBLY. Next you'll want to startgluing up the mitered frame pieces. Thetrick here is to keep all the miters tight.

. All it takes to do this is a common bandF

UG SWEND clamp to hold the frame square whileARTWORK the glue sets up (Fig. 7).

y, Once the glue has dried completely,I like to reinforce each corner of the

AUX. frame with a couple of 4d finish nailsFENCE (Fig. 8). But to avoid breaking the glue

MITER joint when hammering in the nails, I

ENDS To drill a small pilot hole for each of theLENGTH

HaiÌS ÍÏfSt.

72 ACCESSORIES

8 TRIM.To complete the frame, I addedtrim pieces all around the outside of the

USE ANLD C MP frame. These are just strips of wood thatFRAME have been rounded over on their two top

edges (Fig. 9). Not only does the trimhelp to dress up the frame a bit, but it

ISH also covers the nail holes that you justNAIL made in the corners of the frame.

To make the trim, I start by rippingfour pieces of ¾"-thick stock 1" wide.Then, to complete the trim pieces, I

ROUND OVE'R ROLTT RABBET simply round over the edges using a ¼"EDGES OF TRIM ON TRIM PIECE roundover bit in the router table (Fig. 9).

To help position the trim, a shallowrabbet is routed on the inside edge of

each piece (Fig. 10). Then the trimpieces are mitered to length and glued

a, a. to the outside of the frame (Fig. 11). Tohelp position the molding around the

END END , frame during glue-up, I mitered the endVIEW VIEW of a small piece of scrap molding to use

as a guide (Fig. 11a). -

FIRST: MITERTRIM PIECES TO SECOND:FIT AROUND Û GLUE AND CLAMPFRAME TRIM PIECES IN PLACE

NON:CUT SHORTPIECE OF TRIM SHORTTO POSITION MITERS TRIM(SEE DETAIL a) PIECE

The best sanding block is when it came time to some custom sanding The three steps belowone that matches the smooth the large coves on blocks from 1½"-thick explain a handy way toshape to be sanded. So the picture frames, I made foam insulation board. make a cove sanding block.

First trace the outline of the cove Next, use a band saw (or even a Smooth the profile by rubbing itonto a small block of 1½"-thick hand saw and file) to cut the pro- across a piece of sandpaper stuck

foam insulation board. file to rough shape. to the workpiece.

CLASSIC FRAMES 73

The secret to creating a cove on the and clamping it down. Then place yourtable saw is to "scoop" out the wood , workpiece against this fence. Now just

by running the workpiece over the butt the second fence against the otherblade at an angle. To do it safely, first e edge of the workpiece and clamp it down

clamp a couple of fences to your table as well. Inwer the saw blade and check to

saw to guide the workpiece along the ,'

see that the workpiece slides smoothlyway. And second, remove the material between the fences without binding, butin very light passes. also without any side to side play.

ANGLE OF APPROACH. The size and CUTTING THE COVE. Cutting the cove

shape of the cove you make is con- safely has to be done gradually, in a

trolled by the approach angle (that is, series of passes. Since you're feedingthe angle between the blade and the the workpiece into the blade at an angle,fences) (Fig. 1). A steep angle of the teeth are only cutting on one side.

approach results in a narrow, elliptical- Note: If you're experimentingwith I like to start with the blade raisedlooking cove. As the angle increases, different cove profiles, you'll need to only about ½" for the first pass. Thenthe cove gets wider and rounder. determine the fence angle on your own. raise the blade no more than 1/16" at a

ASYMMETRICAL COVEs.In addition to But it's hard to "see" what the cove is time for each successive pass.

changing the approach angle, you can going to look like. So a trick I like to use Maintain consistent downward pres-

also affect the shape of a cove by tilting is to draw the profile of the cove on the sure on the workpiece, using pushthe blade. This creates an asymmetrical end of my workpiece. Then I place the blocks to keep it flat against the table.(skewed) cove (Fig. 2). The more the workpiece behind the blade and kneel And, you want to feed the workpieceblade is tilted, the more the cove looks down so I can sight down the blade at an even pace. A slower feed rate has

as if it's "leaning" to one side. (Fig. 3). Position the workpiece at dif- the advantage of giving you a smootherSafety Note: When cutting asym- ferent angles until the profile of the cut, requiring less sanding later.

metrical coves, always feed the work- blade matches the profile drawn on the Finally, make sure that the blank is

piece into the tilt of the blade. end of the workpiece (Fig. 3a). Once it facing in the same direction for eachSETUP. To set up the fences, I initially does, you can position your fences to pass. To keep things straight, I draw a

raise the blade to the desired height match this angle. directional arrow on the workpiece. All(depth) of the finished cove. This To clamp the fences in place, start by that's left is to finish sand the cove usingmakes it easier to determine the angle positioning a fence in front of the blade a sanding block, as shown on page 73.

to set your fences. (If you're cutting an

asymmetrical cove, you'll need to tilt ANGLE OF APPROACH

the blade first.) FEED DIRECTION FEED DIRECTION

FENCES. With the blade raised to the Lcorrect height, the next step is to clamp

¯ ¯

FENCEa pair of fences to the top of the saw. FENCE

Make sure they have accurate, straight FEl CE

edges and that they're thinner than the FENCE

workpiece. This way your push blockswon'thangup on the fences (see photo). S'

The first step in positioning the - , ifences is to determine their angle. For MOTOR

the picture frames, use a protractor orAS THE ANGCLE OEF PRMEAC IDNCRREASES,

your miter gauge to position the fences.

FEEDASYMMETRICAL COVES DRAW SHAPE OF

DIRECTION (BLADE TILTED 45°)CF WE ORN DE

PMROFCLHE POSITION WORKPIECESO BLADE LINES UP

WITH COVE PROFILE

74 ACCESSORIES

efore you build your frame, it's a Once the print has been mountedgood idea to get your print or art- and the dust cover is in place, the pic-

work matted. This will make it easier ture wire can be secured to the framewhen it comes to mitering the frame with a couple of D-rings (Fig. 2). Youpieces to length (refer to Fig. 5 below). can also see the special knot that is usedFor the prints in these frames, I sand- to fasten the wire to the ring. Afterwiched the print between a piece of mat pulling the knot tight, wrap the end ofboard (with a "window" cut out of the the wire around itself to prevent it fromcenter) and a piece of "foam core." Foam unraveling (Fig. 3). Then, to preventcore is a polystyrene backing material the wire from scratching or marking upthat cushions the artwork and helps pro- the wall, I like to wrap the ends withtect it from damage. I purchased both of floral stem wrap (available at craftthese items from a frame shop. stores) or masking tape (Fig. 4).

Note: If you're not comfortable cut- DUST COVER. To protect the print, it's Note: For another idea for hangingting the mat yourself, order them cut to a good idea to add a dust cover to the heavy frames, see the Technique articlesize-it's not worth risking the attempt back of the frame. This is just a piece of on page 51.

to cut them on your own. brown kraft paper that is attached to the TWO-POINT HANGING SYSTEM. TOMOUNTING THE PRINT. After you've frame with double-sided tape. Once this hang the picture, I prefer to use two pic-

built your frame, you can take it to a is in place, I like to add rubber bumpers ture hooks on the wall. This does a

frame shop and have your print profes- to prevent the frame from damaging the couple of things. First, it evenly distrib-sionally mounted. Or you can simply wall surface. utes the load so all the weight of thepurchase the materials and do the HANGING THE PICTURE. When it frame and glass, as well as the artworkmounting yourself. Although profes- comes to hanging a picture (or any or a heavy mirror, doesn't depend onsional framers use special tools and fas- other item) it's important to make sure just a single hook.teners to secure the glass and artwork the hardware you're using is strong And second, it makes it a lot easier tointo aframe, you can do the same thing enough to support the weight of the level the picture once it's on the wall.with some simple turnbuttons, kraft object you're hanging. Since these Just install the hooks about 6" apart onpaper, and double-sided tape (Fig. 1). frames are fairly heavy, I used heavy- the wall. If you have plastered walls, it's

duty picture wire and two 50 lb. picture best if one of the hooks is driven into a

hooks for each frame. (You can find stud. But this isn't necessary if yourthese items at most hardware stores.) walls are made of drywall.

FIRSE MOUNT RUBBER

oÌËc aŸÅg BUMPER2 3 4 .

TURNBUTTONS SECOND: TAPEDOWN KRAFT PAPER a)

DUST COVER

BU ND E-

TAPE

CUTTING TO SizEWhen framing your artwork, always frame. When marking the frame pieces, of the rabbet, not on the inside edge ofhave the item on hand before mitering before cutting them to length make sure the frame. Otherwise, you'll end up withyour frame pieces. This way, you can to place layout marks on the inside edge a frame that is too large for your artwork.use it as a gauge for marking your framepieces to length (Fig. 5). PLACE PRINT IN RABBET TO MARK

There are a couple of things to con-FRAME PIECES TO LENGTH /

g ALLOW Ys" GAPS• ON ALL FOUR SIDESsider. First, I like to allow for at least FOAM

½e" clearance between the edge of the CORE

artwork and the frame.Then,even if myglass or mat board is a little oversized it

should still fit in the opening (Fig. 5a).MATTED fWNT G SS

MATTED PRINTThen, I match the artwork with the

size of the opening at the back of the li à

CLASSIC FRAMES 75

Book StandThe features that really stand out on this project are a clever shop-built ratchet that makes the topadjustable and legs that are built in short, easy sections. You can also build square legs to change the look.

ypically, legs like the ones on this TOP. The top of the Book Stand is wood shelf expand and contract withBook Stand would be turned from adjustable to several different positions. changes in humidity without damagingsingle pieces of stock. But pieces Thanks to a shop-built ratchet, it can be the rest of the stand.

this long (about 40" long, including left flat or opened up to45° with four SQUARE LEGS. If you don't own or

waste at the ends) are too long to tit on a positions in between. have access to a lathe, don't worry. Alathe found in the average wood- That means you can display a large square leg design that doesn't requireworker's shop. Instead, I made each leg book (like a dictionary or an atlas) at turning can be built from plans in thefrom four shorter pieces: two turned whatever angle makes it easiest to see Designer's Notebook on page 83.sections and two square sections (see - depending on your height or the WOOD AND FINISH. I built the standExploded View on opposite page). angle of the light in the room. Or if you from solid plantation-grown Honduras

To connect the parts of the legs, prefer, you can just lay the top flat with mahogany. It looks almost like forest-round tenons on the turned sections fit the book rest against a wall to make an grown mahogany but has a slightlyinto round mortises drilled in the attractive side table. pinker color. Rather than waiting a fewsquare sections. In addition to making SHELF. Another unique feature of the years for it to darken naturally, I used a

the legs easier to turn, this method also Book Stand is the shelf -it's made like deep, dark cherry stain to "age" it andmakes assembly much simpler. a breadboard. This design lets the solid added a satin polyurethane top coat.

76

EXPLODED VIEWOVERALL DIMENSIONS:24

CLEAT

LJPPER LEGS (4)

TENON

C RATCHET TOPCORNER

p APRONBLOCK BACK

i

15½

13½ ROUND

1/2 52 11½

SHOOULEDRERS

T 1½"-DIA.APRON 1½"-DIA.FRONT -

1 1½"-DIA.APERAODN

O1 ¾"-DIA. TENON

UPPERLEG

END

LOWER LEGS (4)

CAP1 ¾"-DIA. TENON

11½"-DIA.

1½"-DIA.

1½"-DIA.

LOWER14½ ROUNDLEG

OVER13½ SHOULDERS

9¾

SHELFAPRON 1"-DIA.FRONT

ASH %"-DIA.SIDE ¾ 1"-DIA.

½"-DIA.

1¾

DDIAA.

WOODA Corner Blocks (8) 1½ x 1½ - 3½B TopAprn.Fr/Bk.(2) ¾x2¾-20¾C TopApronSides(2) ¾x2¾-12¾D Shelf Aprn. Fr/Bk.(2)¾ x 1½ -20¾E Shelf Aprn. Sides (2) ¾ x 1½ - 12¾F Dust Panel (1) % ply - 13½ x 21½ CUTTINGDIAGRAMG Apron Bead (1) ¼x ¾ -144 RoughH Shelf (1) ¾ x 14% x 20¾

¾ x 9- 96 (6 Bd. Ft.)

I EndCaps(2) ¾x1%-12J Upper Legs (4) 1½ x 1½ - 15½K Lower Legs (4) 1½ x 1½ - 14½L Top(1) %x16-24M Cleats(2) ¾Xl -111/2 ¾x6½-96 (4.3Bd.Ft.)N BookRest(1) %x1¼-23O Prop(1) ¾x1½-7½P Ratchet (1) ¾ x 1½ - 12¾ g· PLYwooD - 24•

x 24" 1¾ x 6

- 60 (5 Bd. Ft.) G

HARDWARE SUPPLIES(8) No. 8 x ¾" Fh woodscrews(4) No.8 x 1¼" Fh woodscrews(6) No. 8 x 1¼ "

Rh woodscrews(3) 1½" x2" brasshingesw/screws(4) Figure-8 fasteners

BOOK STAND 77

CORNER BLOCKS Now, rotate the blank 90° to cut a mor-tise on an adjacent face.

I built the Book Stand in four main sec- Next, turn the blank end for end, andtions, beginning with the top frame and without changing the setup, cut mor-the shelf frame. tises at the other end of the blank to .

Each of these frames starts with four form the second corner block. Û lŠÛcorner blocks (A). All eight blocks are The shelf block mortises are shorterthe same size (Figs. 1 and 2). The main than those on the top blocks, so you'lldifference between them is the length have to change the positions of the stopof the mor tises cut in them for the blocks after cutting the mor tises in two of

tenons on the aprons (Figs. 1a and 2a). the blanks. Then, cut the blocks to length.MORTISEs.I used the drill press to cut HOLES FOR TENONS. Next, drill holes

out the mor tises. And, to make cutting in the ends of the corner blocks to acceptthem easier, I made up four 7½"-long the round tenons on the legs (Fig. 4).blanks, long enough for two corner The top corner blocks have holes in theblocks with waste in between (Fig. 3). bottom end only, while the shelf blocks To center a drill bit on thick-

To cut out the mortises, first clamp a have holes in both ends (Fig.ha). ness of stock, set the fencefence to your drill press table and adjust it To drill the holes, I used a fence and so a srnall bit touches theso the width of the blank will be centered three stops blocks. To do this, center a centerline. To re-check, flipunder the bit. (See the Shop Tip at right corner block directly under the drill bit, stock end for end. Thenfor help in centering the bit.) Then clamp then clamp the fence and stop blocks switch to a ¼" mortising bit.two stop blocks to the fence (Fig. 3). The around it (Fig. 4).left stop block determines the right end CHAMFERING. Finally, chamfer theof the mortise, while the right stop block ends of the corner blocks (Fig. 5). But top corner block. But only two of theis for the left end. there's a difference between the top edges on the top end of each top block

Once the stop blocks are in position, blocks and the shelf blocks. are chamfered: the two at the front edgesdrill a hole at each end of the mor tise. Chamfer all four edges at both ends of of the front blocks (Figs. 1 and 5). ThisThen drill out the waste in between. the shelf blocks and on one end of each will allow the top to tip back at an angle.

TOP FRAME CORNER BLOCKS

a Top sHELF FRAME CORNER BLOCKS

I i i iX'DE S i i

RF BNLT

AKCE½

1½1½ 1½

TOP CORNER BLOCKSw o -li (FRONT)

MORT SING FENŒ .. y; gly

STP'' CORNERL

TOP ygn

BLOCK CO N CHAMFERS,

SL

OCKa

ggOES

OON

DRILL MORTISESDDEEEEPER

1½sSHELF CORNER BLOCKS

TH N ELENN4TH

LANK

WASTE

CORNER 1½sCHO FELRS

st'o°C OVERSIZED OPKS

78 ACCESSORIES

TOP FRAME & SHELF FRAME13¼

Once the blocks are finished, the next21¼

step is to make the four top aprons (B,C) and the four shelf aprons (D, E).

TOP APRON SIDEAll the aprons are the same thick-ness and length (including tenons)(Fig. 6). The only difference is their APRON BEAD

width - the top aprons are wider than TOPAPRON BACK

the shelf aprons.NOTE: HINGE

So begin by cutting the top and shelf cHAMFERS ON MORTISE

aprons to finished size.FRONT EDGE

F METENONS. Next, I used the table saw

to cut the tenons on the ends of the TOP APRON FRONTaprons, sneaking up on the correct size.They need to fit the mortises on thecorner blocks (Figs. 7, 8, and 9).

TOP FRAME. At this point, I set aside SHELF APRON SIDE

the parts for the shelf frame and focused E

on the top frame. Begin the top frame by SHELF APRON

cutting a groove on the inside face ofBACK

each top apron for the dust panel (Fig. 7).APRON BEAD

To be sure of a good fit for the dustpanel, first dry-assemble the frame and SHEFLLANTRON

measure the opening, including the OF5RHA

E

depth of the grooves (Fig. 6).

Now cut the dust panel (F) to fit in /

the grooves. Then, notch out the cor- FEM Fa

ners of the panel to fit snugly around the : Jcorner blocks (Fig. 6). v4

HINGE MORTISES.There's one morestep before gluing the top frame together y,- mortising the front apron for the ROUNDOVER BIT y

hinges that hold the top of the Book Stand(Fig. 9). The mor tises are "nibbled" out ina series of passes on the table saw. dry, assemble the sides to the front and

Now you can glue up the top frame. back aprons with the dust panel inStart by gluing the side aprons and place, and check the frame for squarecorner blocks together. After the glue is (see the Shop Tip below left).

SHELF FRAME. The next step is to glueup the shelf frame. It's assembled in thesame way as the top frame, except there ÑNH

N

isn't a dust panel (Fig. 6). oENNTE CD

BEADING. Finally, add an apron bead2¾

(G) to the bottom edge of each apron CUT GROOVE(Figs. 6 and 6a). Cut it to fit between the eDFEEP

UNTÛ corner blocks, gluing it to the bottom PLYWOOD Y4

edge of the apron.SAWN-OFF

CORNER AVOIDSCORNER BLOCKS SHELF

1Va 1½APRON '\c3. MOUNT

HINGE FLUSHWITH APRON

A small piece of plywood acts ouy.

as a substitute where a try 1½F

CEE

square won't fit. Cut the ply- ¼" THICK

wood at exactly 90°and trim 4CE

TNEORNED

a corner for clearance. ON STOCK y

BOOK STAND 79

SHELF20" SHOULDER-TO-SHOULDER /

(20¾" INCLUDING TONGUES) END CAP

When the shelf frame is completed, you SHELF

can start work on the shelf (H). I used TRIM TONGUES 716

breadboard ends, which allow the shelf(SEE FIG. 11)

to expand and contract with changes inhumidity without damaging the stand.

Most wood movement occurs acrossthe grain, so the shelf panel can expandand contract - it's not limited by the NOTE· NOTE:corner blocks (Fig. 10). The end capS SHELF IS GLUED-UP CUT GROOVE Vis" DEEPER

fill in the spaces between the corner ¾"-THICK PANELEND CAP

THAN LENGTH OF TONGUE

blocks. And since wood expands verylittle along the grain, the end caps cansafely abut the corner blocks. 11

SHELF BLANK. Start by cutting a shelf 8.blank to finished width (measure from ye

the outside edges of the aprons and add "gENRD-

½") and length (from corner block to BIT

corner block, plus ¾" for two tongues)(Fig. 10). Now, cut a tongue on eachend of the shelf (Fig. 10a). Then, to

allow the shelf to fit between the cornerblocks, trim 1¾" off each end of the NOTE:

. TRIM ENDS OF TONGUEStongue (Fig. 11). AT ALL FOUR CORNERS

END CAPS. The next step is to makethe end caps (I) to fit between thecorner blocks (Fig. 10). Each end caphas a groove centered on one edge to a.accept a tongue. Place a small dot of

scr°iSSN

glue in the center of each tongue only.EDGE PROFILE. Next, rout roundovers a

with shoulders on the edges of the shelf ÏËT"E FF UE

R

and end caps (Figs.12 and 12a).ATTACHINGTHE SHELF. The last step is DRILL %" Fh WO

to attach the shelf to the frame (Fig. 13). MORTISE, ½" DEEP SCREWFOR FASTENER

I used figure-8 table top fasteners i /screwed in shallow mortises drilled inthe aprons (Fig.13a).

F

EENOTE: MEASUREMENTS INDICATE

LEGS & ASSEMBLY CENTERS OF HOLES

13½

After completing the shelf and the top Ai.¡ÑMENTframe, the next step is to make the upper XMMW

1"-DIA. *

legs (J) and the lower legs (K). I turned LOWER HOLE

the legs, tapering the lower legs (refer to LEG 21½

the Exploded View drawing on page 77).Note: For legs that don't require

turning, see the Designer's Notebook ULEGER

on page 83.ASSEMBLE

The upper legs have tenons turned PARTS UPSIDE DOWN CHECK FOR

ON FLAT SURFACE SQUAREon each end. The lower legs havetenons turned on their top ends only.These tenons are sized to fit in the I found it easiest to assemble the Finally, glue the lower legs to the

round holes in the corner blocks. pieces upside down on a flat surface. To shelf frame. To help align the legs, I

ASSEMBLY. After turning the legs, you begin, apply glue to the tenons on both made a plywood template with holescan assemble the top frame, shelf, and ends of the upper legs, and insert them drilled in it to accept the legs (Fig. 15).

legs (Fig.14). I thought this was going to into the corner blocks in the top frame It holds the legs in the correct positionsbe tricky. But since the tenons fit snugly (Fig. 14). Then put the shelf on the legs. in relation to each other, and makes it

in the corner block holes, the parts were Now, use aframing square to check that easy to see and correct any racking or

easy to glue up without clamps. everything is square. twist in the legs.

80 ACCESSORIES

Whenturning a spindle on the What makes this template different is position of each contour can be markedlathe to match a pre-deter- that there are marks along both edges. with a pencil (Fig. 2).

mined pattern, all you really Along one edge of the template is a CALIPER SIDE. As the spindle is beingneed is a ruler and caliper. line of "tick" marks that serve as a ruler turned, the other edge of the template

But, if you're making multiple spin- for laying out the pattern. The other works as an indicator gauge. It shows

dles, like the four legs of the Book Stand, edge of the guide has a series of cut-out when you've reached the correct out-

it's simpler and more accurate to transfer notches used like a caliper. side diameters of beads, tenons, and

the pattern to a full-sized template first. PATTERN SIDE. The pattern side of tapers, and the correct inside diametersThen turn each leg following the tem- the template shows where the different of coves, fillets, and V-grooves (Fig. 3).

plate, and they will all be identical. contours of the leg pattern are to be A template like this helps ensure all

TEMPLATE. The template I use is a positioned along the length of the work- spindles turned from the same patternpiece of 4"-wide posterboard cut the piece. By holding this side of the tem- look identical (because they're all madesame length as the finished leg (Fig. 1). plate against the spinning block, the using the same template).

TRANSFER ALLMARK POSITIONS MARKINGS TO

OF ALL CONTOURS ROUGH-TURNEDWORKPIECE

CUT NOTCHES TOMATCH DIAMETERSOF ALL CONTOURS SUPPORT TEMPLATE

e ON TOOL REST

TOP shank holes. The oversized shank holesallow the top to expand and contract with

The last part of the Book Stand to build changes in humidity. (If the cleats wereis the top (L). glued on, the top might eventually split.)

En/ar in Ñ To start, glue up a panel and cut it to RATCHET SYSTEM. The angle of thefinished size (16" by 24") (Fig. 16). top is changed by adjusting a simple

C/M ONON EDGE PROFILE. Next, rout a profile two-part ratchet system. The prop (0) is

along all four edges. I use the same setup hinged to the underside of the top (referWhen turning a round tenon on the router table as when routing the to Fig.17on page 82).The ratchet (P) is

on a lathe, it's easy to turn profile on the shelf (refer to Fig.12a). installed inside the top frame (Fig. 18).the tenon a little too small, BOOK REST. With the profile complete, To start, cut the prop to size and cut a

meaning the tenon won't be screw a 1¼" strip as abook rest (N) to the 45° bevel at one end. Then screw onea perfect fit in the mortise. top near the front edge (Fig. 16). leaf of the hinge to the prop at the square

So how do you fix it? FÍrst CLEATS. To keep the top flat, I end (refer to Fig. 17 on page 82). Theplane a thin shaving. Then screwed two cleats (M) to the underside other leaf of the hinge is screwed to thespread some glue on the of the top (refer to Fig. 17 on page 82). bottom face of the top. Locate the barreltenon and wrap the curled Screw (don't glue) the cleats to the of the hinge 9¾" from the back edge,shaving around it (see the top through counterbored oversized and center it on the length of the top.drawing below).

When the tenon is gluedinto the mortise, the shaving BOOK REST

g,, CROSS SECTION

becomes part of the joint. BOOK RE

N

T E

INTO MORTISE24

FRONT EDGE

lb

W

BOOK STAND 81

To make the ratchet, cut the stock to

length for a close fit between the front 45°BEVEL

1

NOTE: O CROSS SECTIONand back aprons (Fig. 18). To cut the

cLEAT O

REE

4

TAHND PROP

teeth, I used a ¾"-wide dado blade tipped ½" RADIUS

at a15° angle in the table saw (Fig. 18a). /½ FERDONE

After cutting the teeth, glue the 1

ratchet to the dust panel in the top 2¾

frame, centered on the length of thetop frame (Fig. 18)· DRILL COUNTER-

ATTACHING THE TOP. The last step is BORED OVERSIZED11½ SHANK HOLES TO

to hinge the top to the front apron of the cENTER CLEAT ALLOW MOVEMENTON WIDTH TOP

top frame (Fig. 19). To do this, firstscrew the hinges into the mortises inthe apron. Then turn the top and thestand upside down, and position the RArcHET . THICK x 1½" WIDE,stand on the top centered evenly P cUT TO FIT BETWEEN

APRONSbetween the front, back, and sides.Now mark the positions of the

hinges on the bottom face of the top.This is easier than you might expect, MAsince the hinges stick out ¾" in front of AROUND RN TOP

HINGE AND STANDthe apron (Fig. 19). Mark around the UPSIDE DOWN

sides and barrel of the hinge.Next, remove the stand and take the

hinges off the apron. Now align thehinges with your marks on the top and

¾ : 4¾

FENCE

drill the screw holes (Fig. 19a). Finally,screw the top to the stand.

Note: The stand also makes an I DADO BLADE

attractive flat-top side table, perfect for asy SET AT

15° 95°)y

hallway or entryway. -

' • g.......................Long StockOn1/ingdg

D rilling a straight hole into the I glued and screwed the fence to the top of Then, install the bit you'll be using andend of a long workpiece can be a square plywood base (Fig. 1). clamp the piece in the pocket (Fig. 3).difficult, so I used this jig for the Next, cut a brace block from the Finally, position the jig on the table

drill press table to make the job easier. scrap and glue and screw it to one end so the centerpoint on the bit aligns withHOLDING jlG. The jig consists of a of the fence and base, making sure it's the center of the workpiece.

block made from 2x6 stock attached to a square to the fence (Figs. 1 and 1a). DRILL HOLEs. After you're sure thatfence and base (Fig.1). The jig holds the SETTING UP. Now, set the drill press the bit is aligned, clamp the jig to theleg off one side of the table so it's straight table so it's perpendicular to the drill bit. table and drill the hole.up and down under the drill bit (Fig. 3). First, place the jig on the table, take your Note: To drill holes the same depth,

BUILD jlG.To make the jig, first I ripped longest drill bit and align it vertically with set the depth stop on the drill press andthe block and fence pieces to width.'Iben, both the fence and the block (Fig. 2). align each piece with the top of the jig.

- BRACE CLAMP JiG8½ TO TABLE

3. ATTACH BLOCKFENCE SQUARE TABLE IS

5

TO FENCE SL AUR

F

CHUCK

ADJUSTTABLE- SO DRILL

BIT ALIGNSCLAMPING BASE IS ¾" VERTICALLYBLOCK PLYWOOD IN POCKET

82 ACCESSORIES

DESIGNRWW BOOKBuilding this stand with square legs may be your only option if you don't have access to a lathe.But you won't be sacrificing looks - it's a beautifulpiece of furniture either way.

CONSTRUCTIONNOTES:a I changed one feature - the legs - on a First, cut the taper using a tapering jigthis version of the Book Stand.This meant on the table saw. Set the jig to begin thea redesign of the joinery for the pieces of taper at the top end of the lower leg.the leg. Instead of turning tenons on the a To make the foot on each leg, use theends of the legs, I created round tenons by table saw to cut a V-groove 2" from thegluing dowels into holes drilled in the bottom end (Fig. 2). To set up this cut,ends of the legs (refer to Fig. 5). tilt the blade to

45° and set it to cut ½2"a The first step is to cut eight blanks of deep. Use the rip fence as a stop, settingsquare stock to finished length (Fig. 1). it 2" from the blade (Fig. 2a).m After the blanks are cut to length, drill m You can't use the miter gauge set at

the holes in the ends of the legs to accept 90° when cutting the grooves - the¾" dowels (Fig. 1). To do this on the ends of the grooves on the adjoiningdrill press, see the Shop Jig on page 82. faces won't align. Instead, tilt the miter

Note: There's no hole in the bottom gauge so the bottom of the leg is flatend of each lower leg. against the rip fence (Fig. 2). This is an

You need a good fit between the dowel angle of about 1½°. Now the V-groovesand the hole, so you may need to buy can be cut in the lower legs.them a little oversized and sand them a Now, the upper and lower legs can be SQUAREdowntofitintheholes. softened by rounding over the edges EGSa The next step is to chamfer both ends using the router table (Fig. 3). L

of the upper legs, but only the top end of a Once the legs are rounded, use a

the lower legs (Fig. 1). chisel to cut the chamfers evenly arounda To give the Book Stand a more deli- the corners of the V-grooves (Fig. 4). a Finally, the legs are ready to assemblecate appearance, I decided to taper the a The last step is to cut the tenons from to the other parts of the stand, just as waslower legs, and create a decorative a ¾"-dia. dowel (Fig. 5). (Cut them a bit done on the Book Stand with turned legs"foot" at the very bottom (Fig. 1). short so they'll come together tight.) (refer to Figs. 14 and 15 on page 80).

1½ 1½ U YRIP EN AU INLCAERY

RIPPINGBLADE TILT MITER GAUGE TILT RIP

SO BOTTOM OF LEG ISBLADE

UPPER LOWER FLAT AGAINST RIP FENCE \ TO45°

LEG LEG

13½ 13½UPPER

ROUND OVER LEGEDGES OF LEGS TRIM CORNERS

ROUTER TABLE OF V-GROOVES CROSS/ FENCE WITH CHISEL SECHON

¼" SHELF

ROUND- CORNEROVER TAPER BLOCK

(SEE FIG. 3) TO 1"SQUARE DOWELS

ONBOTTOM

2

¼" ROUNDOFFLOO

ER

LOL ER

OVER BIT LEG

BOOK STAND 83

Inspired by traditional cabinets of the past, the pieces in

this section offer a wide variety of woodworking challenges

and provide an equally wide variety of functions.Although the designs are inspired by traditional furniture,

they have been simplified by the use of some non-tradi-tional materials. Primarily, all three use plywood in some

places instead of solid-wood panels. This resolves the issue

of wood movement.Each cabinet offers its own challenges to your skills. The

jewelry cabinet's cabriole legs are simpler to make than youmight imagine. The chairside chest and the buffet server bothfeature dovetailed drawers, and each also has a variation ofa bead molding to provide visual interest.

Chairside Chest 86Shop Jig: Molding Miter Box. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89

Shop Tip: Drawer Openings .....................92

Shop Tip: Drawer Bottom Groove. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94

Designer's Notebook: Double-Deep Drawer. . . . . . . . . . 95

Jewelry Cabinet 96Shop Jig: Indexing Jig ..........................99

Technique: Lining Drawers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101

Shop Tip: Catch Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103

Designer's Notebook: Raised Panel Doors . . . . . . . . . . 105

Technique: Cabriole Legs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106

Buffet Server 110Shop Tip: Trimming Edging Flush . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114 gShopTip:StraightGuide.......................115Technique:BeadEdging .......................117

Hardware: No-Mortise Hinges . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118

Technique: Grooves for Splined Miters . . . . . . . . . . . . 119

Shop Tip: Spacer............................. 120

Hardware: Soss Hinges........................ 122

Designer's Notebook: Mission-Style Buffet Server. . . . 124

ChairsideChestHandsome from any angle and featuring high-contrast dovetail drawers, this cabinet is a perfect chairsidecompanion. An option for double-deep drawers gives you customized space withoutchanging the look.

ne of the most interesting fea- from the typical design. First, I for expansion and contraction with sea-

tures of this chest is the least increased the drawer height so I could sonal changes in humidity. Since a

obvious - the back of the cab- store something larger than a spool of frame and plywood panel won't expandinet is just as beautiful as the top and thread. (While I was at it, I came up with or contract significantly, it can be gluedsides. It's designed to have a finished an additional design for double-deep down to the case.

look wherever it's placed in a room. drawers that doesn't change the appear- WOOD. I used walnut and walnut ply-

The inspiration for this project was ance of the chest. Details about this are wood to build the chest. The draweran antique spool cabinet. These cabi- in the Designer's Notebook on page sides and backs are hard maple, as are

nets displayed and stored thread, and 95.) The drawers are held together with the interior web frames.they usually sat on a counter or in the machine-cut dovetail joints --- an attrac- HARDWARE AND FINISH. The knobsmiddle of the store. Since they could be tive feature in these cabinets. on the drawers are classic fluted brass

viewed from all sides, the back had to TOP.Another change is the top of this spool cabinet knobs. Many other styles

look as nice as the front. chest. It isn't solid stock, but a walnut are available (see Sources on page 126).

DRAWERS. Though frame and panel frame around a walnut plywood panel. If I finished the chest with two coats of

construction is characteristic of spool the top were solid, you'd have to figure satin polyurethane varnish, sandingcabinets, I've made a couple of changes out how to anchor it to the case to allow lightly between coats.

86 CABINETS

EXPLODED VIEWOVERALL DIMEN510NS:27½W x 17½D x 23H CASE

A Side Stiles (4) ¾ x 2- 18%

TOP FRAME X TOP PANEL B Side Rails (4) ¾ x 2 - 12SIDE

V TOP FRAME BACK C Back Stiles (2) ¾ x 2% - 18¼D BackRails(2) ¾x2-22

T MOLDING BACK E Front Stiles (2) ¾ x 1% - 18¼

U MOLDING SIDEF Side Panels (2) ¼ ply - 11¾ x 15

G Back Panel (1) % ply - 21¾ x 15

DUST PANEL P D BACK RAIL H Panel Molding (2) % x% - 192 rough

DRAWER \ TOP SPACER R

BASESIDE C BACK STILE I Kickboard Fr./Bk. (2) ¾ x 3

- 27½8 8 J Kickboard Sides (2) ¾ x 3 - 17½

F SIDE PANEL K Molding Fr./Bk. (2) ¾ x 1¾ - 27%L Molding Sides (2) ¾ x 1¾ - 17%M Splines(4) ½hdbd.-¾x12

roughCC WEB FRAMES

DRAWEM ' N Fronts/Backs (12) ¾ x 1- 23

WEB O Sides (12) ¾ x 1- 14½

z• SIDE P Dust Panels (6) % ply - 13¼ x 21¾

DRAWER Q Drawer Guides (10) ¾ x 1¾- 14½FRONT .

R Top Spacers (2) ¾ x ¾ - 14½S Facing Strips (6) ¾ x ¾ - 23TOPT Molding Fr./Bk. (2) ½ x 2½ - 27%

FACINGU Molding Sides (2) ½ x 2½ - 17%

STRIP DRAWER V Frame Fr./Bk. (2) ¾ x 2¼ - 27½GUIDE W Frame Sides (2) ¾ x 2% - 17½

WEB X Panel (1) ¾ ply - 13 x 23L

FRONT Y Splines (1) ¼ hdbd. - ½ x 72

M DENG rough

PANEL DRAWERSMOLDING Z Fronts (5) ¾ x 3% - 255/8

AABacks (5) ½ x25/s - 224

B BB Sides (10) ½ x26/s - 14¾

E ACC Bottoms (5) % ply - 145/8

x 22¾FRONT A

STILE SIDE HARDWARE SUPPLIESMOLDING

STILE(14) No. 8 x 1

"Fh woodscrews

FRONT (18) No. 8 x 1½" Fh woodscrews(10) Drawer knobs

KlCKBOARD KICKBOARD (14') Nylon glide tapeFRONT SIDE

CUTTING DIAGRAM¾ x 5

- 96 (Two Boards @ 3.3 Bd. Ft. Each) ¼" MAPLE PLYWOOD - 48 x 96 ¾" WALNUT

ww,,,wwwwwww-aswwwwwww

PLYWOOD - 16 x 24

¾ x 5- 96 (3.3 Bd. Ft.) E E

¾ x 5- 96 (3.3 Bd. Ft.)

NOTE GRAINDIRECTION

¾ x 4 - 96 (Two Boards @ 2.7 Bd. Ft. Each) 4. WALNUTPLYWOOD - 24 x 48

x 6- 96 MAPLE (two Boards @ 4 Bd. Ft. Each) R

½ x 6- 96 MAPLE (4 Sq. Ft.) O O O O

CHAIRSIDE CHEST 87

SIDE & BACK FRAMES

I began building the Chairside Chest by ALIGN RAILS

making the side and back frames of the 12E

LDS5OF LHES

case. The frames are ¾" hardwood sur- ANLOL

rounding ¼" plywood panels. 35ocKSIDE

SIDE FRAMEs. Start work on the two THICK A RAIL

side frames by cutting the side stiles (A) 18¼95|EE

and side rails (B) to size (Fig. 1).

BACK FRAME. Since the back frameand side frames have to be the sameheight, I cut the back stiles (C) and backrails (D) at this time (refer to Fig. 4)· slDE FRAME

All three frames are held togetherwith open-ended mortise and tenonjoints (Fig. 1a). STILE PL OD

MORTISEs. I cut the mortises in thestiles with a l/4" straight bit on the routertable (Fig. 2). Raise the bit ¾e" above MEMthe table, and position the fence so the '

œbit is centered on the stile (Fig. 2a).

Next, I clamped a stop block to theCK DADO

fence to limit the length of the cut. BLADE RAIL

Position the stop block 2½" from the cENTER ¼"AUXILIARY FENCE

opposite side of the bit (Fig. 2). TN

NESSRAIL

Note: The mortise only has to be 2" OF STILE

long to accept the tenon on the rail. ButI cut it ½" longer, so I wouldn't have to

square up the rounded end (Fig. 1a). I¾" DADO

TENONs. The next step is to cut ½"- BLADE

long tenons on the ends of the rails. Todo this, I cut rabbets on both faces of

the rails with a dado blade (Fig. 3). edge profile as the back stiles (C). ASSEMBLY. Finally, glue and clampSneak up on the depth of cut until the EDGE PROFILE.To dress up the edges, each of the three frames together,

tenon fits snugly into the mor tise in the rout a roundover (with a shoulder) on checking that they're square.stile. Then cut tenons on all the rails. the outside corner of each back stile (C)

FRONT STILES. With the joints com- and front stile (E) (Step 1 in Fig. 5). PANELS & MOLDINGpleted, I cut two front stiles (E) (Fig. 4). RABBET. Now, rout a ¾"-wide rabbetWhen the case is assembled, these on the inside corner (opposite the After the three frames were dry, I

pieces will be glued to the side frames roundover) (Step 2 in Fig. 5). The side routed rabbets around the inside face of

(refer to Fig. 10 on page 90). But I cut frames fit into these rabbets when the each frame to accept a ¼" plywoodthem now since they receive the same case is assembled. panel (refer to Fig. 7).

BACK FRAMESTEP 1

B

O•FS

SHO DER

FRONT STILE18¼

BACK RAILREORU D

18¼

S IS STEP 2

NOTE: CUTMORTISES AND

TENONSTHESAMEAS ON SIDE FRAMES

(SEE FIGS. 2 AND 3)NOTE: 2¾ALL STOCK ¾" THICK

STRAIGHT BIT

88 CABINETS

To do this, use a ¾" rabbet bit in the To make the panels fit, I rounded the With a zero-clearance insert aroundrouter table and raise it to equal the corners to match the rabbets (Fig. 7). the table saw blade, trim a ¾" strip offthickness of the plywood (Fig. 6a). MOLDINGs. Once the panels were in each side (Fig. 8b). And finally, cut each

PANELs.Next, cut the two side panels place, I glued decorative panel molding strip ¾" wide (Fig. 8c).(F) and the back panel (G) to fit strips (H) on the front face of each Once the molding strips were cut tobetween the rabbets. frame (Fig. 8). To make the strips, cut size, I mitered each end to fit inside the

Note: The grain runs vertically on ¾"-thick stock 1¼" wide. Then rout a frame (see the Shop Jig below). Finally,all three panels. ¾" roundoveron each edge (Fig. sa). glue the strips to the frame and panel.

a. o;HILC SODMITER ENDS OF B· 1¼

PANEL N EO

DIRECOON

NOTE:ROUT

¾" ROUND-RABBET5 y OVER BITINSIDE FACESOF ALLFRAMES

RABBET b.ZEROWASTE

CLEARANCEINSERT

FENCE

- ROUNDCORNERS /

O• GLUE ¼"PLYWOOD \ \

,TO FRAME

ZERO

WASTE

NOTE:

CLLA5REA CE

RUN GRAIN SIDE AND PANELVERTICALLY BACK FRAMES MOLDINGIN ALL PANELS

• ŠlG ...........................Molding MitarBoxForthis project, I built a special miter ¼" taller than the cutting depth of the

box for small pieces of molding. saw you'll use to cut the miters (Fig. 2).BASE. Start by cutting a base out of Next, cut the fence block into three

¾" plywood (Fig. 1). Then, to hold the sections at 45° angles, so the left (A)fence in place, cut a ¼"-deep groove and right (C) sections are both 5½"along the base ¼" from the back edge. long. Save the middle section (B).

FENCE. The fence starts out as a ASSEMBLY. To assemble the miterblock of 1½"-thick hardwood (Fig. 1). box, follow the sequence in Fig. 2.

The width of the fence (its height When using the miter box, I clamp itwhen mounted on the base) should be to my bench to keep everything steady.

B CUT FENCE C-CLAMP SECOND: PUT BACK12¼" LONG SAW BETWEEN PIECE A & B

CUT ¼" AND GLUE B IN PLACE

1½ TALLER THANDCEU NOF

4 BACK SAWSAW BLADE

BASE 12 CUT ADO CUTTING(¾" PLYWOOD) ¼" DEEP, DEPTH

1¼" WIDE FIRST GLUE3

PIECE A FLUSH WITH THIRD: GLUEEND OF BASE PIECE C IN PLACE

CHAIRSIDE CHEST 89

BASE side frames (Fig. 10a). Check that the Finally, drill pilot holes at theinside corners are square and that the marked locations and screw the base to

The base of the chest consists of a ends of each stile are flush with the top the case with No. 8 x 1¼" flathead

molding frame glued on top of a kick- and bottom of the frames. woodscrews (Fig. 105).

board frame (Fig. 9). SIDE TO BACK FRAMEs. Once theKlCKBOARD FRAME. To build the stiles have dried, glue and clamp the WEB FRAMES

kickboard frame, start by ripping the side frames to the back frame to form a

kickboard front and back (I) and sides U-shaped assembly that's open in the With the case screwed to the base, the

(J) to a uniform width (height) of 3". front (Fig. 10). Again, check that the next step is to build six web frames.Then miter the front and back pieces so assembly is square. These frames connect the cabinet sides

they measure 27½" (from long-point to SCREW ON BASE. After the glue dries, and support the drawers. The construc-long-point) and the side pieces mea- turn the case assembly over and center tion of these frames is similar to that of

sure 17½" (Fig. 9). the base on the bottom of the case. the case sides and back.To help align the miters and Then mark the locations of the screw CUT TO SIZE. Begin by cutting all the

strengthen the joint, I added a spline holes on the bottom edges of the case ¾"-thick frame pieces to a width of 1"

(M) in each corner (Fig. Pa). So before by pushing an awl through the counter- (Fig. 11). To determine the length of

gluing up the frame, tilt your table saw sunk screw holes in the molding strips. the front/backs (N), measure the dis-

blade to45° and cut a kerf in each miter.

Then cut splines to fit the kerfs.Note: Splines can be resawn from MOLDING /

solid stock or cut from hardboard. If FRONT/BACKMO D NG KICKBOARD

they are cut from solid wood, make sure 17¼L

the grain direction runs across theK'EA

assembled joint.MOLDING FRAME. After the kick- ¼

board frame is glued together, work can(cu'TSNOEFIT

begin on the pieces for the molding y SAW KERFS)

frame (Fig. 9). The first thing to do is to 2,rip the front/back (K) and sides (L) to a b 1

uniform width of 1¾". To sout,

Before mitering the pieces to fin-SEE FIG. 5

ished length, I routed a ¾" roundover27½

(with a shoulder) on the top outside i 17½

KICKBOARDedge of each piece (Fig. 9b). Also rout a FRONT/BACK

¾"-wide rabbet to fit over the kickboard ½ "-DIA. 3

frame. These are the same procedureS NOTE:KICK OEARD CO NNKER UNE

as on the front and back stiles (refer to GLUE MOLDINGTO KICKBOARD FRAME

Fig. 5 on page 88).¯

./

Now you can miter the pieces to fin-

ished length so the rabbets in themolding frame will sit on the kickboardonce it's assembled. CHFEOCR SCOURANREERS ALIGN F E5A

The base is screwed to the bottom of FLUSH ON

the case later, but it's easiest to do this ifTOP GLSU ROONT

the shank holes are drilled in theSIDE FRAME

molding frame now (Figs. 9 and 9b). ':

After the holes are drilled, glue the

molding frame on top of the kickboard TOP VIEW

frame. Keep the clamps centered over

the edge of the kickboard frame so the

top of the molding is square with thefront of the kickboard.

After the base is complete, the case

sides and back can be assembled andthen screwed to the base.

FRONT STILES TO FRAMEs. Start DRILL3/32"PILOTHOLES

assembling the case by gluing the front ON BOTTOM OF FRAME

stiles (E) over the front edges of the

90 CABINETS

tance between the case sides (24½" in WEB FRAMEmy case). Then, since drawer guides '

1

will be glued to the sides of the frame(refer to Fig. 14), subtract the thick-

WEB IDEness of two drawer guides (1½"). So I N

cut twelve web fronts/backs (N) to aFRONWBBACK

14½

length of 23" (Fig. 11).To determine the length of the web

sides (O), measure the distance NOTE:

between the front and back stiles (14½" a, cLEONT RNA ST

in my case). Now cut twelve sides to this THICKNESS

length (Fig. 11) b.T cKNHE S ODF EAN

JOINERY. The web frame pieces are 1 OPEN MORTISENOTE:joined with open mortise and tenon GLUE UPSIX

joints. To make this joint, first cut an 1FC K5FOAR

QUAREopen mortise (slot) in each end of eachof the web sides (0) (Fig. 11a). Centerthe mortise on the thickness of the DADO DADOpiece, and cut it to depth to match the a

BLADE BLADE

width of the front/back pieces (1").Next, I cut a tenon on each end of the

web front/back pieces (N) (Fig. 11b). O'

cUT PANELSneak up on the depth of the cuts until TO FIT,. ROUTER Athe tenons just fit the mortiseS- TABŒ

FEEDNow glue and clamp all six web DIRECHON

frames together, checking that eachassembly is square and flat. ROUND CORNERS

DUST PANELs.To keep a drawer from 8. DEPTH EQUALS TO FIT RABBET

catching on any items in the drawer To°DF

below, I glued a ¼" plywood dust panel a. GLUE PANEL

(P) to rabbets routed along the inside INTO RABBET

bottom edges of each frame (Figs. 12 OURABBETS .

and 13). Instead of squaring up the cor- NB O

GLUE PANELners of the rabbets, I rounded off the OF WEB FRAME ag TO BOTTOM

RABBET BIT OF WEB FRAME WEB FRAMEcorners of the plywood panels. L -/

DRAWER GUIDESDRAWER GUIDES. The ten drawer frame so that they are flush with the

Before installing the web frames in the guides (Q) are cut to a width of 1¾" and ends and bottom edge of the frame.case, I added drawer guides to five of to the same length as the web sides (O) Then, to prevent wear on the frames, I

the frames for the drawers (Fig. 14). (Fig. 14). Before gluing the drawer added self-adhering nylon glide tape to(The top frame doesn't need them.) The guides to the web frames, drill two the top of each frame (Fig. 14).guides keep the drawer straight as it's countersunk mounting holes through TOP SPACER. To keep the top framemoved in and out of the chest. They also each guide (Fig. 14a). the same width as the other frames,provide a way to secure the web frames After the holes are drilled, glue the glue a ¾" x ¾" spacer (R) on each sideinto the case. drawer guides to the sides of the web of this frame (Fig. 15).

SECOND: TOP WEB\ GLUE GUIDES TO FRAME ONLY TOPENDS OF FRAMES SPA

DRILL ½;" B• TOP WEB• COUNTERSUNK FRAME

1

SHANK HOLE

14½ 4½

NYLON DRAWER GLUE FLUSH ONGLIDE STRIP r GUIDE TOP AND BOTTOM

WEB FRAME PANEL

CHAIRSIDE CHEST 91

16

You can make several drawer openingsall the same height by using a simpleset of spacers to help position the webframes in the case. TOP WEB FRAME

SHOULD ALIGN -

To determine the size of the spacers, wlTH TOP OF CASE

measure from the bottom web frameto the top of the case (17½ "). Then,subtract the combined thickness of thefive remaining frames (3¾").

Now, take this measurement (13¾") TEMPpORY

and divide it by five (the number ofSPACERS

openings). Then rip ten spacers (one for ALL SPACERS

each side of the drawer opening) to thisUN

FHORUMœHEGHT

width (2¾") (see drawing).Next, insert the web frames in the

case and separate them with thespacers (see drawing). If the top frameisn't flush with the top of the case, gg SET

adjust the height of all the spacers. SPACERS ON

INSTALLING WEB FRAMES Note: Keep all the spacers identical.GLIDE STRIPS

The next step is to fasten the webframes in the case to form the drawer FACING STRIPS. After all of the web Underneath this panel assembly is a

openings. I used a series of spacers to frames are screwed in place, you can molding frame. This allows you to add

position the frames and to keep all five remove the spacers and glue a walnut an interesting edge profile to the chest.

drawer openings identical. facing strip (S) to the front of each MOLDING FRAME. To make theBOTTOM FRAME. Start by inserting frame (Fig. 18). Cut the strips to fit molding frame, start by resawing

the bottom web frame through the top between the front stiles (E), and clamp enough ½"-thick stock for the front and

of the case until it sits on the base them in place with C-clamps (Fig. 17). back pieces (T) and two side pieces (U)

molding (Fig. 16). Now drill pilot holes (Fig. 18). Then rip the pieces to a uni-

through the mounting holes, and screw TOP form width of 2½".the frame to the case (Fig. 16a). The next step is to rout a

3 0

SPACERS. Next, measure the inside of After the web frames and facing pieces roundover (with a ½" shoulder) on the

the case to determine the width of the are in place, work can begin on the top. bottom edge of each piece (Fig. 18a).spacers. (See the Shop Tip above for This consists of two assemblies. Once that is done, you can miter thedetails on how to do this.) The top portion is a mitered hard- pieces to length so they're 1¼" longer

ASSEMBLY. Once the spacers are cut wood frame that surrounds a ¾" ply- (long-point to long-point) than the widthto the correct height, you can remove wood panel (refer to Fig. 19). and depth of the case (27¼" and 17¼").them and begin assembly. For each

frame, insert two spacers and then a FRMOONL NACK

web fr e Tmheen drillcpilot holes and

MO D NG

27¼ 17¼

U

GLUE AND CLAMPFACING STRIPS CENTERTO FRONT OF DRILL ½2" MOLDINGWEB FRAMES PILOT HOLES ON TOP

IN CASE OF CASE

b #8 x 1" Fh MOLDING

2½

• WOODSCR1

CUT LENGTH TO FITBETWEEN FRONT STILES

¾" ya½"-DIA.

ROUND- COUNTERSUNKFACING STRIP OVER BIT SHANK HOLE

(¾" x ¾")

92 CABINETS

After the frame pieces are cut, screwthem down to the top of the case so cUT SPLINESFRAME

A LITTLE SHORTERthere's a uniform overhang on all four SIDES THAN LENGTHsides. (In my case, the overhang mea- OF PANEL

sured ¾" on all sides.)TOP FRAME. Now work can begin on

the frame and panel top. To make theframe, start by cutting enough ¾"-thickstock for a front and back (V) and tWO NOTE:side (W) pieces (Fig. 19). Then rip the NNDnGRLUE

pieces to a uniform width of 2¼". TMOLFRO CK

Before cutting the pieces to length,there are a number of routing steps to a- b GLUE TOP TOgo through (Fig. 20). First, rout a

¼n CASE MOLDING

roundover (with a shoulder) on the top ,,edge of each piece (Step 1). UNIFORM

Next, to create a decorative shadow 2¼OENRHAANG

line between the frame and the plywood sPuNE SIDES

panel, I used a straight bit to rout a very (¼" HARDBOARD)

small rabbet on the inside top corner of

each frame piece (Step 2).To keep the frame pieces and ply- TOP FRAME STEP 1 ROUTER TABLE STEP 2

wood panel aligned during glue-up, I y,-

PIECE FENCE

used splines cut from ¼" hardboard SHOULDER 16

(Fig.19). To accept the splines, Irouted¼" slots on the inside edges of theframe pieces (Step 3 in Fig. 20). (Save --this router setup for use on the top W" NOTE: yROUND- ROUT WITH TOPpanel in a later step.) OVER BIT FACE DOWN STRAIGHT

After routing the slots, miter the Rug^ÿEPS

frame pieces (V, W) to length so they're½ STEP 3 TOP ½ STEP 4¼" longer (long-point to long-point) PANEL

than the molding frame.PANEL. Next, dry-assemble the frame

and cut a ¾" plywood top panel (X) to fit

within the frame. Once the panel is cut -to size, rout ¼" slots on all four edges

¼ stor cUTTER BIT ¼" SLOT CUTTER BIT

(Step 4 in Fig. 20).ASSEMBLY. Now cut the splines (Y)

from ¼" hardboard to a width of ½" GAP FOR DRAWER DF

OTR STEP 1

(Fig. 19a). This allows room for exceSSCLEARANCE

½r> ROUTERglue. Then glue the frame around the SHOULDER TABLE

panel with the splines in place.E

GESNOF FENCE

After the glue dries, glue the frame DRAWER FRONT

and panel assembly down to the top of

the case. Center it on the case so there'sa uniform overhang (½") on all four DRAWER KNOB ¼ RERU D- STEP 2

sides (Fig.19b).

DRAWERSDRILLHOLE

TO FIT KNOB

The last step on the chest is to make the HARDWARE

drawers. The fronts are walnut, and the NYLON GLIDE STRIF2y2"

sides and backs are maple. Dovetails . STRAIGHT BIT

are used at each corner. I started bymaking the lipped drawer fronts. This allows for a ¾" lip on each edge of PROFILE EDGE. After the drawer

DRAWER FRONTS. The first thing to the drawer, less ½" for drawer clear- fronts are cut to size, rout roundoversdo is to determine the size of the drawer ance (Fig. 21). In my case, the drawer with shoulders on all four edges of eachfronts (Z). To do this, measure a drawer fronts measured 3¾" x 23¾" (refer to drawer front (Step 1 in Fig. 22). Then,opening (not including the glide strip) Fig. 24 on page 94). Then cut five to create a lip, rout a ¾" rabbet on theand add ¾" to the height and width. drawer fronts from ¾"-thick stock. back side (Step 2).

CHAIRSIDE CHEST 93

DRAWER USE ½ To prevent the grooves from showingFRONT DOVETAIL BIT

ZAND DOVETAIL JIG on the sides of the drawers, I located it

so it would cut through the dovetailsockets in the drawer front (Fig. 25).

This groove has to be in the samelocation on every drawer front, back, andside. But there's a problem - the

3½ 2/a drawer lip. It makes the drawer frontwider than the other pieces. To workaround this, I made an auxiliary fencethat fits under the lip (refer to the Shop

A Tip below). The shoulder of the drawerDRAWER DRAWER front (not the lip) rides against the fence.

SIDE BACKIf you use this same fence for all the

The contrast between the maple pieces, the grooves will be cut the samesides and the walnut fronts (22½") (Fig. 24). Finally, cut the ten distance from the shoulders on theaccentuates the dovetail joints at drawer sides (BB) 14¾" long. drawer fronts as it is from the bottomthe front of each drawer jOINERY. After all of the pieces were edges of the drawer backs and sides.

cut, I cut ½" half-blind dovetail joints on Once the grooves are completed,BACKS AND SIDES. When the drawer the corners. With dovetail joints at the dry-assemble the drawers so you can

fronts are complete, rip ½"-thick front and back of each drawer, that measure for the drawer bottoms (CC).drawer backs (AA) and sides (BB) to would be a lot of sawing and chiseling Then cut the bottoms from ¼" plywoodmatch the shoulder-to-shoulderwidth by hand. So I sped up the process con- to fit the drawers.of the drawer front (Fig. 23). (I used siderably by using a router and a dove- PULLS. Before assembling themaple for these pieces.) tail jig to cut them (Fig. 28). drawers, I drilled shank holes in the

Then cut the five drawer backs (AA) BOTTOM GROOVES. Next, cut drawer fronts to mount the knobs.to the same length as the shoulder-to- grooves in all the drawer pieces to Locate the holes 3½" from each endshoulder length of the drawer front accept the ¼" plywood bottoms (CC). and centered on the height of the

drawer (Fig. 24).

BACK Finally, I assembled the drawers and(½" THICK) finished the chest by applying a couple

o oats of polyurethane. 15

DRILL HOLE2

HOA FR

D E

23½

FRONT 3½ l(¼" THICK)

SIDE CUT ¼"-DEEP GROOVE(½" THICK) FOR DRAWER BOTTOM

THROUGH DOVETAIL SOCKET

To align the grooves forthe drawer bottom, i C-CLAMP

clamped an auxiliary BLOCK

fence to the rip fence. OFFSET FENCE(¼" HARDBOARD) ADJUST RIP FENCE

This offset fence is To cUT GROOVE TOMATCH THICKNESS

Just a piece of ¼" hard- . OF DRAWER BOTTOMboard nailed to a scrap cENTER GROOVE RIP

block (Fig. 1). Cut a kerf ON SOCKET FENCE DRAWER SIDE

in each drawer piece,then move the fenceuntil the plywood fits

¯¯

the groove (Fig. 2). I I \

94 CABINETS

DESIGNWSM• B••KAlthough it looks identical, opening the drawers of this chest will reveal two that are double-deep.The construction is the same, but each large drawer front is made bygluing two shallow ones together.

CONSTRUCTIONNOTES:a Since there are only three draweropenings, you will only need to makefour web frames. The bottom frame is

mounted as before.- Now you'll have to do a little moremath to space the web frames properly.Start again by measuring from thebottom web frame to the top of the case

(17½"). Then subtract the combinedthickness of the three remaining web

frames (2¼"). Now subtract the heightof one regular drawer opening (2¾")and divide what's left (12½") in half.This number (6¼") is the spacingbetween the web frames.

"

a I ended up making two 6¼"-highspacers for the double-deep drawersand one 2¾"-high spacer for the reg- DOUBLE-DEEPular drawer. Insert the spacers and web DR A WE R

frames in the case (as in the Shop Tipon page 92), and adjust the heights of

the spacers if necessary.m You'll still need five drawer fronts (Z). g RHOANDOVER

However, after routing the edge profile, SHOULDER

the doubledeep (tall) drawer fronts are

created by gluing together two regulardrawer fronts with a front filler (DD)between them (Fig. 1).a After the drawer front assemblies FRONT FILLER

have dried, you can rout the lip around GLUE A ½" x ¾" ROUT ¾" x ¾" RABBETS AROUND

the edge (Fig. 2) FILLER STRIP BETWEEN BACK SIDE AFTER GLUING FILLERDRAWER FRONTS BETWEEN DRAWER FRONTS

a 'Ihe large drawer backs (EE) and sides

(FF) can be cut to size and dovetailsrouted on the drawer pieces (Fig. 3).

CHANGED PARTSN Web Frts./Bks. (8) ¾ x 1

- 236

O Web Sides (8) ¾ x 1- 14½

P Dust Panels (4) % ply - 13% x213/4 DRAWER

Q DrawerGuides(6) ¾x1¾-14½ BOTTOM. W PIXWOOD)

S Facing Strips (4) ¾ x % - 23AADrawer Back (1) ½ x 2% - 22%BB Drawer Sides (2) ½ x 2% - 14¾ -

CC Drawer Bottoms (3) % ply - 145/8x 22%

NEW PARTS FFDDFront Fillers (2) % x % - 23% LARGE

EE Lg. Drwr Backs (2) ½ x 6½ - 22% DR WER

FF Lg. Drwr Sides (4) ½ x 6% - 14¾ NOTE: (½" THICK)ADJUST SPAGNG OF WEB FRAMESTO ALLOW ROOM FOR DOUBLE-

HARDWARE SUPPLIES DEEP DRAWERS (6¼"-HIGH OPENINGS)

8' of nylon glide tape

CHAIRSIDE CHEST 95

JewelryCabinetPlywood panels trimmed with solid wood make constructionof this case simple. The elegant cabriolelegs can be made by following simple step-by-step instructions - or can be purchased ready-made.

ears ago, jewelry was often one

of the most valuable things a

family owned. So these preciousitems were stored in a special case orbox - something out of the ordinary.That's what I had in mind when I

designed this Jewelry Cabinet.The cabriole legs and curved aprons

give the base an elegant look. The caseincludes built-up moldings at the topand bottom. But I think the most inter-esting feature is the doors.

DOORS. The doors are L-shaped, so

they wrap around the front and sides of

the case. Since they're attached at the

back, you don't see any hinges. Theyfold out like wings on each side of the

case, revealing a set of drawers andstorage for necklaces. The photo shows

flat paneled doors, but you may like thelook of raised panels instead. TheDesigner's Notebook on page 105shows how to build this option.

DRAWERS. The drawers also havesome neat features. They can beremoved from the case so you can findsmall items quickly. And the specialpadded inserts are shop-made.

You might think that all these detailsrequire special skills or equipment. Butthis entire project is built with ordinarywoodworkingtools and methods.

Even the fancycabriole legs arestraightforwardto

make. The step-by-step Techniquearticle beginningon page 106shows you how.Or if you prefer,you can purchasepre-made cabriole

i legs from one of

several mail-ordercompanies (seeSources on page126 for further

De a information).

96 CABINETS

EXPLODED VIEWOUTER PANELOVERA1L2L DIMEONSIONS:

NANEL

BALL-TIPPEDCA5E EDGING BRASS NECKLACE BACK HINGE

MAGN ICB

PEG A

DOOR SIDEPANEL

OO

DOOR FRONTPANEL

P

DRAWERFRONT

DRAWER UIDEK

SIDE

CASE RAIL

B Case Edging (4) ¾ x ¾- 201¡S INNFERR PNANELE

C Side Panels (2) ¾ ply - 11 x201/8 EDGING INNER PANEL

D Guides (18 ¼ x9/16 - 5¾ F DOOR

E Inner Panels (2) ¾ ply - 7½ x 13½ EDGING

F Fr. Inr. Pnl. Edging (4) ¾ x ¾ -16 roughG Sd. Inr. Pnl. Edging (4)¾ x ¾ -10 rough

SIDEH Outer Panels (2) ¾ ply - 17 x 13 INNER PANELI Fr.Out. Pnl. Edging (4)¾ x 1¾ - 17 rough EDGING

J Sd.Out.Pnl.Edging(4)¾x1¾-11rough SIDE APRONK DrawerFronts(9) ½x2-77/s -

U

L DrawerBacks(9) ½x2-73/sM Drawer Sides (18) ½ x 2 - 56/s

N Drawer Bottoms (9) ½ hdbd. - 53/ax 7%

O Door Side Panels (2) ¾ ply - 6½ x 18½P Door Fr. Panels (2) ¾ ply - 5½ x 18½Q Door Edging (1) ¾ x ¾- 192 roughR CatchRails(2) ¾x¾-8BASE

FRONT/BACK APRONS5 Cabriole Legs (4) 3 x 3 - 17¼T Transition Blocks (8) 2½ x 2½ - 1½ rU SideAprons(2) ¾x4-8 T

V Fr./Bk. Aprons (2) ¾ x 4 - 14 TRANSITIONBLOCK

HARDWARE SUPPUES CABRIOLE LEG

(6) No. 8 x%" Rh woodscrews(10) No. 8 x 1½" Fh woodscrews(2 pr.) 2" x 1%" ball-tipped hinges(9) ½" x ½" brassknobsw/studs(4) S/16"-dia. magnetic catches w/ strikes(2) 1½"-tall teardrop pulls w/ 1 "-dia. backplates(2) No. 8-32 x 1

" brass Rh machine screws(6) Z-shaped table top fasteners(4) 3/16"-dia. rubber O-rings(8) 1½" brass necklace pegs

JEWELRY CABINET 97

CUTTING DIAGRAM

¾" WALNUT PLYWOOD - 48 x 48 ¾ x 6½ - 96 WALNUT (4.3 Bd. Ft.)

¾ x 5- 96 WALNUT (3.3 Bd. Ft.) R

-

3 x 3- 24 WALNUT TURNING BLANK (4 Needed)

CASEGU DE i .

y4

This Jewelry Cabinet is constructed intwo parts. A storage case containingnine drawers is fastened to a base withcabriole legs. I built the case first, then

F

TENON

sized the base to fit.RO

BACK PANEL. I started with the back(A) of the case (Fig. 1). This is a piece of

¾"-thick plywood cut to size. The sidesof this panel are edged with ¾" solid bwood case edging (B) to hide the plies.

• EDGING DETAIL

(The edging also provides a solid woodsurface for the hinge screws when the 2nys NG

doors are added later.) I cut the edging H

a little thicker than the panel is wide PLYWOOD

(Fig. 1b). That way, after the glue is dry,the edging can be cut perfectly flushwith a flush trim bit in the router C. *

Next, I cut two ¼"-wide grooves on |

the inside face of the panel to accept lys

tongues that will be cut on the edges of

the side panels (Fig. 1a).SIDE PANELS. With the back panel

complete, I cut two plywood sides (C).But before gluing edging to the sides, I cASE EDGING CASE EDGING

CHAMFER

cut a series of dadoes on the inside face

AUX. FENCE

AUX. FENCE )

DADOBLADE

TOP GROOVE INDEX PIN11yl6 STOP BLOCK

TO BUILDINDEXING INDEXING JIG

NOTE. SEE SHOP JIG

CUT FIRST DADO 1'Yl6' liaON PAGE 99

FROM TOP END

98 CABINETS

cuF GORNGUE CROSS SECTIONIN BACK PANEL

DADO BLADE AUX.BURIED IN ENCE

AUXILIARY FENCE NOTE:

ND

of each panel. These ¼" x ¼" dadoes Once these cuts are made, you can (Fig. 1c). These guides are simply thinwill hold the drawer guides. In order for use the jig to help you cut the remaining strips of solid wood that support andthe drawers to slide in and out without dadoes across the panels (Fig. 3). guide the drawers.binding, each pair of guides must line After all the dadoes were completed, To make the guides, I planed downup exactly when the case is assembled. I cut rabbets on the back edge of each a blank to ¾e" thick, cut it to length,

To accomplish this, I used an case side (C). This forms a tongue that and then ripped ¼"-wide strips from it

indexing jig. (See the Shop Jig box fits snugly into the groove already cut in (Fig. 5). Use a push block to keep thebelow for details about building this.) the back panel (Fig. 4), guides from getting pinched betweenBut before using the jig, you'll need to Finally, I added case edging (B) to the saw blade and the fence.cut the top dado on each side (C). This the front edges of the side panels to After they've been cut to size, thedado is 10/16" from the end (Fig. 2). To hide the plywood edges and the dadoes guides are glued into the dadoes, tightensure that the dadoes would line up for the drawer guides (Fig. 1). against the case edging. Then using a

between the two sides, I fastened an DRAWER GUIDES. Before assembling sanding block, I formed slight chamfersauxiliary fence to my miter gauge and the sides and back, I added drawer on the edges of the guides to help thethen clamped a stop block to the fence. guides (D) to the dadoes in the sides drawers operate smoothly (Fig. 1c).

Withjust a piece of scrap and a MAKING THE)!G. To make the jig, Adjust the fence so the indexing pin is

couple of screws, you can make start by cutting a shallow notch in the 11916" from the blade (Fig. 2a). Thenthis simple jig for cutting the dadoes in fence that's the same width as the fasten the jig to the miter gauge with a

the sides of the Jewelry Cabinet. dadoes in the sides of the cabinet (¼") couple of screws.It's just a ¾"-thick auxiliary fence (Fig.1). Cut the notch only Ÿ16" deep to USING THE JIG. To cut the dadoes,

that's attached to the miter gauge on allow clearance between the pin that place the side panel against the fence so

the table saw. Then a small locating pin will be added to the notch and the that the first dado fits over the indexingis mortised into the bottom edge. Once bottom of the dado in the side panel. pin. After running the panel over theyou've cut the first dado near the top Next, make a pin so it fits snug in the blade, move the newly cut dado over theedge of the side panel, the dado is notch and glue it in place (Fig. 2). pin. Then just repeat this procedureplaced over the pin, automatically posi- SET UP. To set up the jig, temporarily until you have all the dadoes cut in eachtioning the workpiece for the next cut. clamp it to your miter gauge (Fig. 2). of the side panels (Fig. 3).

INDEXING JIGFIRST ADD PIN

TO NOTCAUX. FENCE

SECOND: CUTANOTHERNOTCH 11¥m"

FROM PIN .

IN AUFENHCE

JEWELRY CABINET 99

SIDE AND BACK ASSEMBLY. With theguides in place, the sides and back i , (°NER

$• TOP VIEWpanel can be glued together (Fig. 6). To i PANEL

keep the top and bottom edges of thepanels flush, I stood the assembly on

#8 x 1½" NOTE: SCREW

end as I clamped it together. Fh WOODSCREW INTO HARDWOODEDGING 7½

Note: To keep the side panels i

square to the back when gluing themup, I cut a piece of plywood to use as a

squaring block' SQUARINGThe top and bottom panels are both BLOCK

made up of an inner and outer layer of

edged plywood.INNER PANELS. The inner panels (E)

are made of ¾" plywood. These panelsare wrapped on all four sides with ¾"- in

wide inner panel edging (F, G) (Fig. 6).

This edging is mitered at the cornerS NOTE:

and glued in place. Then a cove is routed y"oE BELEOCS

DES

around one face of the panel (Fig. 7). Eg04|RDEURNG b. CROSS SECTION

Once the edge profiles are routed, ASSEMB YE

attach the inner panels to the case with ,7 BOTTOM

screws. Make sure to screw into the pNANNEERL

solid wood edging on the sides and

back (Figs. 6a and 6b).F

#8 x 1½"

OUTERPANELS. The outer panels are FRONT GFh WOODSCREW

built the same as the inner panels, with INNEEDR NANEL SIDE lENDNERNPANEL

a few exceptions. First, the outer panel(H) is slightly smaller than the innerpanel (Fig. 8). But once the 1¾"-wideouter panel edging (I, J) is added, the NOTE: ATTACHpanel ends up wider and longer than the EDGING TO PANELS

inner panel (Fig. Ba). The wider edging , BEFORE ROUTING PROFILE

not only looks better, but it will holdscrews more securely when the case is

attached to the base.m

*'°sN

Another difference is the edge pro- INNER PANE

file. I routed ½" roundovers on the out- y coveEDGlNG

side edges and then ½" roundovers on str¼" SHOULDER

the inside edges (Figs. 8a and 8b).

Then the outer panels are simply gluedin place (Figs. 9 and 9a).

CROSSCROSS SECTION SECTION

FRONT OUTER PANEL ¼"EDGING SHOULDER

OUTER PANEL

100 CABINETS

DRAWERSNOTE: DRAWERS

5½ ARE BUILT FROMWith the cabinet case completed, I DRAWER ½"-THICK STOCK

began making the set of nine drawers SIDE

that fit inside. Since all the drawers arethe same size, you can quickly build

$OCHT FREER

themin an assembly line fashion. DRAWER IS ASSEMBLED)

To start, I cut all the drawer fronts(K), backs (L), and sides (M) to sizefrom ½"-thick stock (Fig. 10).

Note: The drawers are sized to allowfor 1/16" clearance gaps around eachdrawer. This makes a ½" gap between "Z6

HA ARD5½

drawers. (My drawers ended up 2" talland 7¼" wide.) 'y / DRAWER

JOINERY. The drawers are held 7 SIDE

together with a series of rabbets. First, 'a SIDEb

'c. caoss a

rabbets cut on each end of the front SECTION

piece accept the sides (Fig. 10a). Andby closing one end of the grooves thatare cut in the drawer sides, the fronts

calso serve as drawer stops.Next, each side piece receives a

rabbet at one end to hold a back piece i SIDE

(Fig. 10b). Then, to allow the drawersto ride on the drawer guides, cut a cen-tered groove along the length of eachside piece (Fig. 10c). a.

After cutting the rabbets and sidegrooves, I added a ½"-wide groove to slDEeach piece for a drawer bottom VIEW

(Fig. 10c). Now dry-assemble thedrawers and cut the bottoms (N) to size

PARE AWAYfrom 1/s"-thick hardboard. Then glue MATERIAL TO

and clamp the drawers (including the cM RP

ING

bottoms) together. Check each drawerfor square as you assemble it.

FINAL TOUCHES. Once the glue haddried, I worked on a few more details on chisel, I created a "bird's mouth" removed from the cabinet (Fig. 11).the drawers. First, I routed a

1/s" opening at the end of each groove. This And finally, I added velvet-coveredchamfer around the inside to soften the makes it easier to place the drawer onto drawer liners and ring holders (as

sharp edges (Fig. 10). Then using a the drawer guides after it has been shown in the Technique box below).

Liners. / lined some of the drawer bot- Custom Foam Insetts. For a couple of ered the blocks with fabnc. Press thetoms with velvet-coveredpieces of the other drawers, I made foam inserts fabric into the kerfs with a straightedgeposterboard. Mount the fabric with for rings by cutting kerfs in blocks of and tape it in place. Then carefully sliptape and spray adhesive. rigid insulation (blueboard). Then I cov- the inserts into the drawers.

JEWELRY CABINET 101

DOORS

With the drawers completed, the case is

ready for the doors (refer to Fig. 15).FIRST: GLUE EDGING

Each door is made up of two pieces of TO DOOR FRONT

plywood joined together in an L-shape. AND SIDE PANELS

This way, the doors swing open to allOW SECOND: WITHaccess to necklaces and other jewelry EDGING IN PLACE,

GLUE SIDE PANELhanging from the sides of the case. TO FRONT PANEL

I started on the doors by cutting sidepanels (0) and front panels (P) to fin- 20

ished size (Fig. 12). Then to hide theedges, I cut and glued door edging (Q)to the panels. WHEN GLUING UP

The front panels are edged on allSeTYE

four sides. But the side panels are only SQUARE

edged on three. Then the side panelsare glued to the front panels. I used a

square to help glue them together at a

perfect right angle (Fig 12a).Then to complete the doors, I drew

layout lines and used a hand-held routerto rout ½" stopped chamfers on the out-side corners (Fig. 13). EDD NR

HANGING DOORS. Finally, I com- g/"THICK

pleted the case of the jewelry cabinet by" WIDE)

hanging the doors with 2" butt hinges(Fig. 14). These are mortised into thecase back but are simply screwed to theinside faces of the doors. NÂ

When hung correctly, the doorS SIDE

should be centered top-to-bottom, and"^oNEL

the sides should end up flush with themolded edging on the top and bottom of

'

the case.MAGNETIC CATCH RAILS. To keep the ye

doors closed, I used magnetic catches. CHAMFER

These catches are installed in a pair of

¾"-thick rails (R) (Fig. 15). The rails fit

between the side panels of the case. I

14

RA L

NOTE:DRILL1½f-DIA.HOLE FORMAGNETICCATCH

e

CATCH

. ,

PLA

RAIL

r," MAGNETICBARREL CATCH

102 CABINETS

SHO‡ TIP MSESA

E 2.¾" DEEP

CatchInstallationTo get magnetic catchesflush with the surface of the s y

rail, use a C-clamp to helppress the catches in. FRONT/BACK ASIRDEN 'bAPRON

RAIL

R/ NOTE: Ms

ALL APRON LEG

PIECES CUT FROM¾"-THICK STOCK

APRONUSE C-CLAMPTO PRESS DOORCATCHE5 IN PLACE

sized mine to create a1/16" gap between 4

the rails and the drawers (¾" wide in t

my case). Before gluing them in place, IL3

3

drilled two holes for the catches. L* ' / \ 14

I used C-clamps to help install thecatches in the holes (see the Shop Tipabove). Then I screwed the catch platesin place (Fig. 15a). To adjust the doorsin or out, I used a rubber O-ring as a

spacer under each catch plate.

BASE

With the case complete, I turned my HARDBOARD

attention to building the base. There'STEMPLATE

nothing too unusual about the construc-tion of the base: just four cabriole legs a. slDE VIEW 'b.joined by aprons. i i

LEGS. To make the base, I startedwith the cabriole legs (S) (Fig. 16). The _ GRID

interesting thing about cabriole legs iS 4 -R USthat they look a lot more complicated to - -

build than they actually are. 41

For this project, Ikept the legs basic. NOTE: CURVE ON APRONSHOULD MATCH LEGSAll you need is a band saw, a drum

sander, and some rasps or files - nocarving and very little shaping arerequired. Refer to page 106 for step-by- The case will be attached to the base these profiles is that they have to matchstep instructions. later with metal table top fasteners. To up with the curves on the transition

Note: You can also buy completed accommodate these fasteners, I cut a blocks of the legs (Fig. 17).legs with all the work done for you (see ½"-wide groove ¾" deep on the inside The side aprons have a simple cen-page 126 for sources). face of each piece (Fig. 16b). tered radius (Fig. 17a). This can be

The legs are mortised to receive the After cutting the grooves, tenons are drawn right on the aprons, cut out with¾"-long tenons that will be cut on the cut to fit the mortises in the legs. I cut a band saw, and sanded smooth.aprons (Fig. 16a). them with a dado blade on the table saw. For the front and back aprons, I

APRONS. Once you have the legs PROFILE. After cutting the tenons, the made a hardboard template that's laidready, they can be connected with side next step is to dry-assemble the base out using a grid pattern (Fig. 17b).aprons (U) and front/back aprons (V) and lay out the decorative profiles on After tracing the pattern onto the(Figs.16cand16d).Istartedbycutting the aprons (Fig. 17). The important front and back aprons, cut the profilethese pieces to finished size. thing to remember when laying out with a band saw and sand it smooth.

JEWELRY CABINET 103

ASSEMBLY

With the aprons complete, you can gluecASEand clamp the base together. Just check

to make sure the base remains squareafter tightening the clamps.

Once the glue dries, set the case on Z-SHAPED TABLE

the base and center it front-to-back and -TOP FASTENER

side-to-side (Fig. 18). ,,Then install Z-shaped table top fas-

teners in the grooves and attach theother ends to the case bottom with a.screws (Fig. 18a),

FINISH AND HAROWARE. To completethe Jewelry Cabinet, I applied two coats ½of varnish that were then rubbed out toa high sheen (see the Finishing articleon page 42 for details). Once that wascompleted, I installed the door anddrawer hardware (Fig. 19).

To finish off the cabinet and give it

an extra touch of elegance, I used brasshardware. I mounted brass "teardrop"pulls on the cabinet doors (Fig. 19a). •The drawers each received a simplebrass knob centered on the drawerfront (Fig. 196).

Finally, I added specially designedbrass pegs on the case sides to hang NOR APPlYnecklaces and bracelets (Fig. 19c and FINISH BEFORE

photo below). These are epoxied into $°o o"asLLS

shallow holes.Note: See page 126 for mail-order

sources of pulls and other hardware. m

104 CABINETS

Adding raised panels to the door fronts adds an extra touch of character to the Jewelry Cabinet.All you'llneed is solid wood instead of plywoodand a special bit for the raised panel profile.

CONSTRUCTIONNOTES:a Adding a little extra character to the These raised panels have a specificface of the Jewelry Cabinet is as easy as profile (refer to Fig. 3). Start by cut-replacing the old doors with raised ting the panels to finished size (mea-panel doors (see the drawing at right). sure the opening in the frame and

Note:Thisdesignoptioncallsforsolid add 3/4" tO the length and width forwalnut instead of walnut plywood for the the grooves).front door panels. You'll need enough for a To rout bevels for the raised panels,two panels, four stiles, and four rails. use a router table and a 17/16"-dia.

m Start by making the door side panels raised panel bit (Sears bit No. 25465)(0) the same as before, with 3/4"-thick (Steps 1 and 2 in Fig. 4). Each beveledging along the top, bottom, and back. is routed in a series of passes.a You don't need edging for the door a After making a final pass on thefront panels (P), because you'll be bevel, you can complete the profilemaking a door frame to hold each one. by turning the panel over andStart by cutting the rails (X) and stiles routing a shallow rabbet along the(W) to length and width (Fig. 1). back (Step 3 in Fig. 4).a Next, cut a groove on the inside edge Note: It's a good idea to finishof each rail and stile (Fig. 2). This ¾"- the panels before assembling thedeep groove is offset so it will hold the doors. That way no bare wood willpanellater. show if the panel contracts witha Now you can also cut offset tenons changes in humidity.on the ends of the rails. These tenons a Assemble the doors, but don'tare ½" long to fit the grooves in the glue the panels in the framesstiles(Fig.2). (they should float so they can RAISED PANELa Now the door frames are complete. expand and contract). Then add DOORSIt's time to start work on the panels (P). them to the Jewelry Cabinet.

S'/4 MATERIALS LIST4½

78 1¼ CHANGED PARTS NEW PARTSP Door Fr. Panels (2) ¾ x 5

- 18 W Door Stiles (4) ¾ x 1¼ - 20- - -5

Q Door Edging ¾ x ¾ -7 ft. rgh. X Door Rails (4) ¾ x 1 ¼ - 5¼

TOP VIEW PANEL PROFILE1¼

RAIL (CROSS SECTION)

20 18 DOORPANEL + ½ O ½

NOTE: CUT GROOVE ON INSIDEEDGE OF EACH FRAME PIECE

STEP 1 STEP 2 STEP 3

ROUT BEVEL'

MOVE 'USE RABBETING BIT

IN A SERIES FENCE1 o

TO COMPLETE THEOFPASSES ANDM EL syge PROFILE

RAIL

D R

ANELPASS

ABINET 105

abriole legs look more like sculp-%eture than woodworking. And thatmay scare you away from trying yourhand at them. But they really aren't thatdifficult to make. While some designs asiacan get fancy, I kept these cabriole legs apretty basic. After a few cuts on the ,xband saw, you'll be holding the roughshape of the leg in your hands. Thenwith some handwork, you can bring thelegs to final shape. All you need to do is

follow the steps below.TURNING BLANKS. Cabriole legs start

out as thick, square blanks. To avoidjoint lines, I don't laminate thinnerpieces of wood. I use solid stock to

make the legs. The problem is findingpieces that are thick enough.

To get blanks this size, I use 3" x 3" PATTERNs. Once you've squared up Note: Though the same leg patternturning squares. I buy them extra long, the turning blanks, the next step is to works for the Jewelry Cabinet (pagesso I can also cut the transition blocks create patterns for the leg. (I made 96-109) and Coffee Table (pages 20-29),from the same blank.This makes a nice mine out of ½" hardboard.) There are the patterns for the transition blocksmatch in color and grain patterns. two patterns: one for the leg (Fig. 1) are slightly different (Figs. 2a and 2b).Turning squares often come rough cut, and another that's used for the inside CORNER POST. After the shape of theso you may need to square them up faces of the transition blocks (added leg is laid out (Steps 1 and 2), it's time to

before you can begin on the legs. later) (Figs. 2a and 2b). work on the blank. I start by drilling the

LEGTEMPLATE

ORNER

3" x 3" SQUARE CORNER POSTTURNING BLANK

4 To draw the pattern, position template Next, use a square to draw referenceRANSITION BLOCK Å

(SEE FIG.2)- A 50 the back edge of the corner post lines around all four faces of the

aligns with inside corner of blank. Flip blank to indicate where the corner posttemplate and repeat on adjacent side. meets the knee.

17¼

CABRIOLELEG r '

PATTERN aAUXILIARYFENCE .

FORSTNER FENCEBIT

- NOTE: NOTEDRILL MORTISESUSE ¼7/s" DEEP BAND SAW

FOOTBLADE

STOP BLOCK

1" LAYOUT At this point, cut the mortises on the Set up a band saw to make the faceGRID

. (WO faCOS with the patterns. Drill a cuts on the corner post. Use a fence to

series of overlapping holes. Then clean up guide the leg and clamp a stop block to

the cheeks with a chisel. the fence to set the depth of cut.

106 CABINET

mortises (Step 3). Then two cuts aremade on each corner post (Step 4). 1½"

TRANSITION RAD.These cuts stop at the reference lineS BLOCK

drawn in Step 2RŸCTION OF

TRANSITION BLOCKS. Before making END GRAIN ONBLANK AND

the cuts that shape the curves of the BLOCKS2½legs, you'll have to add two rectangular

transition blocks (Fig. 2). These blockses,"D

are glued on over the knees of the legs. ENFEERENCETRANSITION BLOC

They should also line up with the refer- (JEWELRY CABINET)

ence lines between the corner post andthe knee so they end up square. ¾" RAD. ¯ 3

CUTTING THE LEGs. After the transi-don blocks are in place, redraw the legpattern and transfer the transition blockpattern to them (Steps 5 and 6). Then 2½

make the band saw cuts to complete thecorner post (Step 7). TRANSITION BLOCi

¯

Now, it's time to cut out the leg. This (cOFFEE TABLE) ;is done in two steps. First, all the cutsare made along one face of the leg(Steps 8 and 9). Since these cutsremove part of the pattern on the adja- REDRAW

PÄTTERN ONcent face, you need to save the waste TRANSITIONpieces. Then you simply tape them back BLOCK

onto the blank and cut the curves on theadjacent face (Steps 10 and 11).

Now, while the leg is still relativelysquare, I sand the faces with a drumsander on the drill press (Step 12).(You'll need an auxiliary table to sup-port the leg as you do this.) All you need Glue on transition blocks, then redraw A second pattern is used to trace pro-to do here is sand until the saw marks knee on blocks. Reference line on pat- files on inner faces of transition blocks.have been removed. tern should align with transition block. Place pattern in corner and mark outline.

RNE WASTE K ET OTEESWM E

Start sawing at corner post by aligning To cut front face of leg, start at knee Cut back of leg just like the front Ablade with top of transition block Saw and saw around to foot in one smooth second cut is needed to form the tran-

to kerf Repeat the cut on adjacent face. pass. Be sure to save the waste piece. sition block. Again, save the waste pieces.

DRUMSANDER AUX.

PRESS

MASKINGTAPE

H

10 The waste pieces are needed when Non; finish roughing out leg b At this point, the "square" legscutting remaining faces of leg blank. repeating cutson frontandback faces. can be sanded with a drum sander

Tape the pieces to blank in onginalpositions. Again, work from the knee down to the foot to remove the saw marks.

JEWELRY CABINET 107

SHAPING THE LEG4

\ NOTE: At this point, the blanks are beginningENMC TEER

tO ÏOok like cabriole legs. Now it's timeWITH FRONT to do the final shaping that will softenCORNER OF LEG

the square edges.4 I WOrk from the bottom up, starting

with the foot and moving up to the tran-sition blocks at the knee.

FEET. One of the tricks to makingWASTE ,

gT cabriole legs is to get four legs that lookCENTERUNE similar. And the feet are probably the

most noticeable. So I shaped the feet on

To begin shaping the legs, first make a 14 Now that the template has been all four legs and then set them side by

template to help you draw the outline made, the top of the foot can be laid side to compare them. If one was notice-of the foot 7his is a piece of 1/e" hardboard out Set the template on top of the foot and ably smaller, I worked on getting thewitha 17/a"-radiuscutout trace the outline. others to match it. But don't be too crit-

ical. After all, when the project's built,no one will be able to compare them as

closely as you can now.The first step for each foot is to lay

out the final radius on the top. Then theOONnNECT

F NA

K

AO COTHerS can be sawed off (Steps 13-16).CORNERS TO FIND To do the shaping, I used a rasp andCENTERPOINT

a half-round file (Steps 17-19). The raspREMOVE /A allows you to remove the wood quickly.cORNOEORT But the file gives you a cleaner cut. Both

have a curved edge for cleaning up thetop of the foot and a flat edge for

COMPASSBLOCK shaping the sides of the foot.

½" RADIUS m OnR,

i LEGs. Once the feet were done, I

SURFAG started on the legs. There's not much to

these. The front and back corners of the

15 Tum the leg over and find the center- Next, hold the leg upright and cut legs get small, tapered roundovers withpoint on the bottom of the leg. Then away the front and side comers of the a file and some sandpaper. But these

use a compass to draw a%"-radius circle on foot with a hand saw held at a slight angle. roundoversaren't the same for the frontthe bottom of the foot Cuton the waste side of the layout lines. and back.The front gets rounded over a

USE

HALF- RAWROUND AND FILE

FILETO SHAPE ,

e' / FOOTTO ' ROUND

LAYOUT LINES OVER HEELTO BOTTOM

1

OF FOOT

TO AVOID CHIP-. BOTTOM VIEW . BOTTOM VIEW

OUT, DON'T RASPOR FILE TOPEDGES OF FOOT

NØiE: / ,USE CURVED FAGFOR SMOOTHING HEEL

' HEEL

TOP OF FOOT BOTTOM OF BOTTOM OFFOOT FOOT

Still holding the leg upright file the top Clamp the leg in a vise and finish Once the sides and front are round,

face of the f oot Remove the sharp rounding the front and sides of the shape the taperon the back of the heel

lines from the center and feather it out across foot, working from the top of the foot to the by blending the radius on the bottom of the

the top of the leg. bottom to prevent chipout foot into the back of the ankle.

108 CABINETS

little more (Steps 20 and 22). The side KNEES. The last area of the leg to fully -a scratch in the corner post from

corners are softened with sandpaper. work on is the knee, including the tran- the chisel will be a chore to remove.To hold the legs during this process, sition block. There's not much shaping Next, I dry-assembled the aprons

I came up with a shop-made carver's to do. It's mostly just cleanup. and marked the locations of their out-cradle by adding wooden extenders to To begin, I removed the ridge side faces (Step 24). Then I roundedthe jaws of a common ¾" pipe clamp between the corner post and the knee over the top of the transition block with(refer to the Shop Jig on page 21). with a chisel (Step 23). But work care- sandpaper to blend the edges (Step 25).

DRAW TAPEREDLINES TO

'

LAY OUTe

ROUNDOVER "CARVER'SCRADLE"

(SEE PAGE 21)

2 0 Next lay out marks to show the Now with a file and some sandpaper

tapered roundover on the front carefully round over the front edge of

corner Connect the marks by drawng lines the leg, until you reach the layout lines that

up and down the leg. were just drawn.

NOTE:FILE TAPEREDROUNDOVER ON - OBACK EDGE

PARE RIDGE WITHSHARP CHISEL

SAND

The back edge also gets a tapered Between the corner post and the

roundover - though not as large as beginning of the knee, there may be a

the front Lay out guide lines similar to those small ridge This can be pared away carefully

used on the front edge of the leg. with a sharp chisel

Set the aprons in place and trace the Finally sand the leg to 220-grit. If

front edges onto the leg. Remove the applying a liquid stain, you might want

aprons and round oær the hard edge to the to use a wood conditioner before staining.

line with a chisel and sandpaper See pages 26-27 for more about this.

Nt i 109

Buffet ServerWhen it's open, the top provides extra room to set trays and dishes while serving guests. Closed, thecabinet top is smooth and uncluttered.The secret is a special set of hinges that hide out of sight.

t's easy to see how handy this Buffet ware. That's because I usedServer can be. Fold out the top a special type of "hidden"during those large family gatherings hinges - Soss hinges. (For

so you never have to worry about step-by-step instructions onhaving enough room at the table. And installing these, see thewith the wings folded in, the server article on page 122.)doesn't take up much room and still pro- DOORS. I used another set of non-tra- metal drawer guides would look out ofvides plenty of storage. ditional hinges in this project. The inset place, so I used wooden guides.

FOLDING TOP. So how does the doors are mounted on "no-mortise" Traditional dovetail joints are used tofolding top work? It's pretty simple hinges. Unlike regular butt hinges, fasten the drawer sides to the front.really. The top is divided into four parts. these hinges are easy to install and One problem with wide drawers likeThe two inside pieces pivot out on allow for quite a bit of adjustment when this one is that they have a tendency tohinges and are supported by the two it's time to hang the doors. rack and bind as they're opened andoutside pieces (see photos). DRAWER. Although the top and doors closed. To avoid this, I used runners

But what I really like is that when the use special hardware, I took a different along both sides and simple guidestop is folded in, you can't see any hard- approach with the drawer. I thought underneath the drawer.

110 CABINETS

EXPLODED VIEWOVERALL DIMENSIONS:35½W x 21D x 35½H

O

FOLDINGTOP

SOSSHINGE SUB-TOP

N

EDGING

RUNNER TOP

FALSEFRONT

BB

BRASS \DRAWER

PULL DRAWERDOOR FRONTKNOB

BACKSUPPORT

FRONT CLEAT

BEADEDGING SIDE

RBASE CLEAT

FRONT

DOOR RAIL NOTE: DOORS CORNERARE INSET BLOCK L

IN CASE BASESPLINE SIDE

P

DOORSTILE

CARCASE N Sub-top (1) ¾ x 20% - 34¾ BB False Front (1) % ply - 5½ x 31%A Case Sides (2) ¾ ply - 19½ x 30 O Folding Top (1) ¾ x 21 - 35½ CC Edging (1) ¾ x ½ - 80 roughB Top/Bottom (2) ¾ ply - 19½ x 32¾ DOOR AND DRAWERC Edging (1) ¾ x ¼ - 260 rough P Door Stiles (4) ¾ x 2¼ - 23 rough HARDWARE SUPPLIESD Back (1) ¼ ply - 29% x 32¾ Q Door Rails (4) ¾ x 2¼ - 17 rough (6) No. 8 x ¾" Fh woodscrewsE Stretchers (2) ¾ x 2

- 32¾ R Bead Edging (1) ¾ x ¼ - 320 rough (13) No. 8 x 1

"Fh woodscrews

F Shelf (1) ¾ ply - 17¾ x 31¾ S Splines (8) % x 3½ - ½ (22) No. 8 x 1%" Fh woodscrewsG Shelf Edging (1) ¾ x ½ - 31% T Door Panels (2) % ply - 1113/32

x 17% (10) No. 8 x 1½" Fh woodscrewsBASE AND TOP U Drawer Front (1) ½ x 5¼ - 31½ (2) No. 8 x 2" Fh woodscrewsH Front Cleat (1) ¾ x 1

- 33% V Drawer Sides (2) ½ x 5¼ - 18 (2) Brass drawer pulls w/ machine screwsI Side Cleats (2) ¾ x 1

- 18¾ W Drawer Back (1) ½ x 4¾ - 31% (2) Door knobs w/ back platesJ Back Supports (2) ¾ x 4 - 6 rough X Drwr. Bottom (1) % ply - 17¾ x 31¾ (2pr.) 13/96" partial-wrap no-mortise hingesK Base Front (1) ¾ x 4 - 36 rough Y Side Runners (2) ¼ x ¾ - 17 (2 pr) ¾" No. 101 Soss hingesL Base Sides (2) ¾ x 4 - 22 rough z Guide (1) ¾ x 1

- 16¾ (4) Spoon-style shelf supportsM Corner Blocks (4) ¾ x ¾ - 3 AACenter Runners (2) % x ½ - 17½ (4) Ball catches

BUFFET SERVER 111

CUTTING DIAGRAM¾ x 5

- 96 CHERRY (3 3 Bd. Ft) ¾ x 7½ -84 CHERRY (4.4 Bd. Ft.)

¾ x 4½ - 96 CHERRY (3 Bd. Ft.)- -------¯¯¯¯¯"

¾x5-84CHERRY(2.9Bd.Ft)

½ x 6- 72 SOFT MAPLE (3 Sq. Ft.)

½ x 4½ - 36 MAPLE (1.1 Sq. Ft.) ¼ x 2- 48 MAPLE (.7 Sq. Ft.)

-- Y AA

¾" CHERRY PLYWOOD - 48 x 96 ¼" CHERRY PLYWOOD - 48 x 48

AL50 NEEDED:ONE 18" x 32"PIECE OF ¼"-THICKMAPLE PLYWOOD

CASE SIDES, TOP, AND BOTTOM. To begin But the edging isn't added just yet. Aconstruction on the case, I cut the sides series of ¼"-wide dadoes needs to be

There are a lot of different parts to this (A), and top and bottom (B) to size from cut on the side panels first (Fig. 1).Buffet Server, but the place to start is ¾" plywood (Figs. 1 and 2). These dadoes will hold the top andwith the case. Most of the case is made Note: When sizing the panels, I bottom and the stretchers.with plywood that's edged front and allowed for ¼"-thick hardwood edging The next thing to do is to create ¼"-back (Fig. 3). However, to create the strips that will be added to the front and thick tongues on the top and bottomopening for the drawer, there are two back later to hide and protect the edges panels that fit into the dadoes on thehardwood stretchers as well. of the plywood. sides (Fig. 2a). These tongues are cre-

2¾ EDGING DRILL COUNTERSUNK19½ 8• FRONTC

Me"-DIA. SHANK HOLESSECTION FOR ATTACHING TOP

7 VIEW

¾"-THICKPLYWOOD

30EDGCING

32¾

19½

8. FRONT SIDE

GRO FR

O FOR

EDGING)

BOTTOM

112 CABINETS

ated by cutting rabbets on the ends ofthe panels (Fig. 2a).

PLYWOOD EDGING. At this point, theplywood panels are ready for some ¼"-thick edging (C) (Fig. 3). To do this, I

glued extra-wide strips to the panelsand trimmed them with a flush trimrouter bit. (See the Shop Tip on the nextpage for more about this).

Note: The edging doesn't run theentire length of the top and bottompanels. It stops flush with the rabbets onthe ends (Fig. sa).

CASE BACK. After the edging hasbeen trimmed flush on the top andbottom panels, the next piece to make is

a ¼"-thick plywood back panel. Thispiece does more than just close off theback. It also strengthens the case andkeeps it square.

To hold the back, first cut ¾"-deepgrooves along the back edges of the NOTE:

sides, top, and bottom panels (Figs. 1, Ëo 'OMNNED

2b, and 3b). Make sure the width of ig.AENDDGING

these grooves matches the thickness of EDGING

the plywood, which isn't exactly ¼".After the grooves for the back have

been cut, the case back (D) can be cutto size (Fig. 3). To determine its size, I

dry-assembled the case and measuredthe opening. (Just remember to allowfor the depth of the grooves.)

STRETCHERS. The last two pieces of

the case are the ¾"-thick hardwoodstretchers (E) (Figs. 3 and 4). Thesepieces are ripped 2" wide and are cut to

the same length as the top and bottom shelf that's added later (Figs. 1 and 1a). stretchers into their grooves. Then I

panels (32¾"). Then I drilled countersunk pilot holes added the back and the other side panelThe stretchers fit in the grooves in in the top panel (B) (Figs. 2 and 2a). on top, stood the case upright and

the side panels just like the top panel - These holes will be used to secure the clamped it together. This is not a quickwith tongues (Figs. sc and 3d). Here top later on. assembly, so be sure to dry-assemble allagain, all you have to do is cut rabbets Now the case can be assembled. To the pieces first to make sure everythingon the ends to create ¼"-thick tongues do this, I laid a side panel down on my goes together well and use a slow-set-(Figs. Ja and 4b). shop floor and fit the panels and ting glue. (I used white glue.)

The only difference between the twostretchers is that the one in front alsorequires a notch in each tongue. This BAcKallows it to fit flush with the front of the STRETCHER

edging on the sides of the case (Figs. 3c

and Ja). This notch is easy to cut - youcan use the same fence setting that you FRONT ¼

used to cut the rabbets. All you need to STRETCHER32¾

do is set the stretcher on its front edge Oand lower the blade so it cuts a notchthe same thickness as the edging (¼").

ASSEMBLY. At this point, the casecould be assembled, but first I took theopportunity to drill some holes while

NOTE: NOTCH FRONT TONGUES SOit's easy to get at the inside faces of the STRETCHER IS FLUSH WITH EDGING (SEE

pieces. On the case sides (A), I drilled FIG. 3c)

holes for ¼" shelf pins that will hold a

BUFFET SERVER 18

SHELF plies, the front of the shelf is edged like mitered to wrap around the front andthe case panels, except this time, I used sides of the case. These pieces have

With the case assembled, you can step ½"-thick edging (G). ogee profiles on their top edges, and theback and take a deep breath. All that's front piece has a curved profile cutleft with the case now is to add a shelf BASE along its bottom edge.inside (Fig. 5). I ripped the ¾" plywood CLEATS. But you can't simply add theshelf (F) 17¾" wide and cut it to length With the case complete, I added the base pieces to the case - you needso there was a

1/16" gap at each side. base next (see the photo on the oppo- something to attach them to. So first, I

(Mine was 31½" long.) To hide the site page). It's made up of three pieces added front and side cleats (H, I) to the

NOTE:DRILL ¥m"- DIA.OFFSET SHANKHOLES BEFORE

ATTACHINGCLEATS

suPACKRT2 OFF ET

After the edging is gluedto the side panels of the ROUTING DIRECTIONBuffet Server, it needs tobe trimmed flush with theplywood. To do this, I useda router with a flush trim

c ple of

rpresented a

First, it's difficult to bal-onceerhenbaheenarrhow

edgeof the workpiece. As a

result, it's easy to gouge bridge the gap created by along, just clamp the sides tion (see drawing). The bitthe edging. the dado, all that's needed together with a 2x4 may grab the workpiece if

Second, the bearing on is a filler strip (see photo). spacer sandwiched in you run the router in thethe router bit will drop Cut the strip so it fits sriug between (see photo). The wrong direction.into the dadoes cut on the in the dado and is flush spacer separates the sides Finally, after the edginginside faces of the side with the face of the ply- so you can rout the is trimmed flush with thepanels - which can also wood. (I sanded my filler edging on both faces of faces, it can be trimmedgouge the edging, strip to get it flush.) the panel at one time. to length. I use a chisel

Fortunately, both prob- To create a wider surface One thing to keep in and carefully pare awaylems are easy to solve. To for the router to ride mind is the routing direc- the excess on the ends.

114 CABINETS

The bottom edge of straight as pos-the base front has dec- sible, I used a

orative curves at each flush trim bit in

end (see the photo at a router table.left). The portion of However, thethe base between bearing of thethese curves is straight. bit needs a sur-

An ogee curve at each end of the base Forming this profile is face to ride on.front echos the ogee profile routed on done in several steps. So I fastened a straight into the inside cornerthe top edge of the base. By cutting The curved portions piece of scrap to the where the straight por-away the base between the ogees in a are cut to rough shape base with double- tion begins. So stopstraight line, "toe room" is created. The on the band saw. Then sided carpet tape (see the cut just short ofShop Tip at right shows how to do this. use a drum sander to photo above). this point, then com-

sand up to the lines. You'll still have some plete the profile bybottom of the case (Fig. 6). The cleats To make the edge touch-up to do since using a chisel to squareare 1" tall and have two sets of counter- between the curves as the bit won't reach up the corners.sunk pilot holes drilled in them. One setis for screwing the cleats to the case,and the other is for attaching the base base front (K) and sides (L) can be Before attaching the base pieces, I

pieces to the cleats. added (Fig. 7). These ¾"-thick pieces laid out and cut the curved profile onNote: The holes for attaching the are ripped 4" wide. But before mitering the front (Fig. 7c). The straight section

base pieces are countersunk from the them to length, I routed the Roman was shaped by roughing out the lineback side of the cleat. ogee profile along the top outside edge with the band saw and then routing it

The cleats sit back ½" on the front of each piece (Fig. 7a.) straight with a flush trim bit and a

and sides of the case (Fig. 6a). But they Now the three base pieces can be straightedge (see Shop Tip above).stop ¾" short of the back edge. This mitered so they wrap around the case CORNER BLOCKS. When the basecreates room for two back supports (J) with a ½" shoulder, starting with the pieces have been glued and screwed tothat can be added next. These are cut base front (Fig. 7). And when the the supports, I glued short, ¾"-squarethe same height as the base pieces (4"). miters on the front corners are com- corner blocks (M) into the front and

BASE PIECEs. After the back supports plete, the back ends of the sides can be back corners of the base to strengthenare glued and screwed to the case, the cut flush with the back of the case. this joint (Fig. 7).

FRAOSNEP

EAC EES

34¾

4 CORNEROGEE ß

FRONTSECTION BASE STANDS

VIEW ½" PROUDOF CASE

GLUE BASE TOBACK SUPPORTS

NOTE:4

ADD FOUR ¾" x ¾"CORNER BLOCKS (M)AFTER BASE PIECES

ARE ATTACHED4 5

BUFFET SERVER 115

TOP8 . . - - . -

Now the buffet can be set right side upso you can add the top. The top is made .-up of two hardwood panels: a sub-topand the folding top (Fig. 8).

SUB-TOP. The first thing to do is to

glue up a ¾"-thick panel for the sub-top(N) (Fig. 9). When cutting this panel to

size, it should end up flush with theback edge of the case but overhang thefront and each side ¾" (Fig. 9). (Mysub-top was 20¾" x 34¾".)

With the panel cut to size, next I

routed a ½" cove profile on the frontand side edges (Figs. 9 and 9a). Then I

drilled four countersunk pilot holes oneach end. (Countersink the bottom - - . .

face.) These are for securing the foldingtop to the sub-top later.

FOLDING TOP. Next, I started on thefolding top (O). It starts out as anotherlong, ¾"-thick panel (Fig. 9). First I

ripped the folding top 21" wide so itwould overhang the front edge of thesub-top ¾" (Fig. Ba).

NOTE: ROUT PROFILEThe folding top overhangs the sub- ON TOP (O) BEFORECUTTING INTO PIECEStop ¾" on the sides, too. But when ini-

21 (SEE FIG. 8)

tially cutting the panel to length, I added¾" to the final length to allow for thethree saw kerfs that will be made whencutting the panel later. (My panelstarted off 35¾" long.)

Before cutting the panel, I routed a

profile along its front and side edges.Using a

1/4" roundover bit, the first thing NOTE: BOTH343/4

2 /s

to do is to round over the bottom edge THOA AWR /4 -THICK

(Step 1 in Fig. 9b). Then flip the panelover for a second pass. But this time, ,raise the bit to create a ½" shoulder 8. FAOCPE

b TP BOTTOMalong the top edge (Step 2 in Fig. 9b). FAcE FACE

Now the folding top can be cut intofour pieces (Fig. 10). To do this, I usedmy rip fence, cutting the long panel in L ,,half first and then cutting off the 4"-long cOVE BIT

pieces at each end.TOP ASSEMBLY. Before the folding

top can be attached to the sub-top, thetwo halves of each folding top must bejoined with Soss hinges. (For more on SECOND

installing these hinges, see page 122.)cuT

With the hinges mortised into the4

x~folding top, the 4"-long end pieces can

. .

be glued and screwed to the ends of thesub-top (Fig. 8). The backs of thesepanels are flush and the folding top is

centered side-to-side. But the important 'thing here is the gaps between the

cUT IN 'folding top halves should match the HALF

's

gaps where the halves are joined withFIRST

the hinges (Fig. sa).

116 CABINETS

With the folding top and sub-top 11

screwed together, all that's left is to .screw them to the case, making surethe tops overhang the case the same oneach side (Fig. 8a). . .-

DOORS

Next I turned my attention to the twodoors (Fig. 11). These doors are inset,and their frames are joined with rein-forced miter joints. A bead edgingwraps around the door frame.

FRAME PIECEs. To build the doors, I

started with the frames. The stiles (P)and rails (Q) are cut to width (2¼")from ¾"-thick stock (refer to Fig. 12 onnext page). But before these pieces canbe cut to length, you need to make andadd the bead edging (R) to both edges(see the Technique box below).

After the edging is on and has beentrimmed, the stiles and rails can be •••· ·· · •

mitered to size (Fig. 12). When doingthis, I allowed 1/16" gaps around andbetween the doors (Figs. 11a and 11b).

Usually I build an inset door to fit its The reason these doors can't be yet, cutting right through the molding).opening exactly. This way, I can trim it trimmed much is because of the bead So when mitering the rails and stiles to

slightly so the gaps around the doors edging that's applied around the edges. finished length, you need to be as accu-are all the same. But this method won't It's too thin to allow you to trim much rate as possible so any trimming will bework with these doors. off without it being noticeable (or worse kept to a minimum.

.............................SeadEdgi'i-ighe trick with the bead edging is simple solution: I used a groove to

I attaching it to the frame pieces so it "lock" the edging in position. Then after' k ' stands proud the same amount all the edging is attached, the excess can

around the door. But I came up with a be trimmed on the table saw.

EDG NG

DADO NOTE: USE

BLADE FEATHERBOARDEDGINGBLANK

NOTE: USE TRIM EDGINGPUSH BLOCK LUSH WITH BAC

NOTE: USE 5 FACES OF RAILSPUSH BLOCK, WASTE AND STILES

a. a. yr WASTE A. FENG EB NNG

WASTE

EDGINGBLANK

½" ROUND-½ > a y OVER BIT

First, cut %"-deep grooves 2 Next, rip two ¼"-thick Now, using a %" roundover 4 After the edging is glued to

on both faces of a 3/4"-thick edging strips from each bit and the router table the rails and stiles, trim theblank. Size the grooves to hold blank. Use a push block when fence, rout both outside edges back edge of the moldingthe door pieces. making this cut. of each strip. flush, using the table saw

BUFFET SERVER 117

SPLINES AND DOOR PANELs. With the. NOTE: DOOR FRAME IS

¾"-THICK SOLID WOODdoor pieces cut to size, the next thing I PANEL IS ¼" PLYWOOD. 8.did was cut some ¼"-deep grooves 152"A CROSS SECTION

along the inside edges and along theends of each piece (Figs. 12 and 13).

The grooves on the edges will hold a ¼"plywood panel. And the grooves on the -Cends will hold some splines, which will STILE 2¼

strengthen the miter joints. P

RAILUnfortunately, to cut these grooves,

you can't use a dado blade because ¼"plywood is just a little bit less than ¼"thick. So for each groove, I made two Vi PLY

passes with a regular blade (Fig. 13).'

y,

And because of the bead molding on theedges, the inside face has to stay ,7 \ ' /against the fence. So to sneak up on the 22ys

final width of the grooves, you need to U. TRIM SPLINES AFTERmake a pass on the edge and end of BRASS KNOB GLUING DOOR TOGETHER

each piece before nudging the rip fenceAND BAEC

over a bit for the second pass.Note: As I cut the grooves in the BEAD

door frame pieces, I also cut a groove in EDGING N EN

a piece of scrap. Then I used the scrap R DIRECTION

as a test piece to help position the fence NOTE: SIZE DOORSOF SPLINE

properly for the second pass. gy(Ig. ,E OPENING

Cutting the grooves on the long SPLINE S

/

edges of the frame stiles and rails is

easy (Fig. 13). But when it's time to cut

the grooves on the ends, the pieces are,

,

'

too narrow to pass over the blade safely.

So I decided to add a little extra support- To cuTHOE

GROOVESThe Technique box on the opposite ENCESHESEEENDES HUEE sp CF

T 17

NG

VE

page shows how I did this. ON PAGE 119 PLY N

Once the grooves are cut on the ,y

edge and ends of each piece, dry-assemble the door frames and measurefor the plywood panels (T) (Fig. 12). Besure to figure in the depth of thegrooves in the rails and stiles. (My o°"syns

panels were 1113/32" x 17¾".) //

Oneproblem with traditional butt INSTALLATION. To mount these When the door ,

hinges is that they require some hinges, I screw them to the case first. fits, the last two

precisely cut mortises. So with this pro- Next, I set the door on a couple of ½e"- screws "lock" theject, I tried a type of hinge I hadn't used thick shims inside the case opening. door in place. |5before: a no-mortise hinge. With these, This sets the gap along the bottom of

the leaf attached to the case fits around the door, so you can reach inside and

the leaf attached to the door. So there mark the position of the slotted pilotare no mor tises to cut. holes on the back of the door.

But what I really like is that there's Now, the pilot holes can be drilled,some built-in adjustment. The hinge and the door can be mounted in thehas slotted shank holes in the leaves case. Next, you need to step back and

that allow you to move the door side to check the gaps around the door. And if /side and up and down. This is very needed, you can even out the gaps by

useful when fitting inset doors. adjusting the hinge screws.

118 CABINETS

utting a groove in the end of a work- (Fig. 1). I used a wood clamp pad to flip it around so the workpiece is angledpiece for a splined miter joint is usu- avoid damaging the bead molding. in the opposite direction (Fig. 2).

ally pretty simple. All you have to do is And to prevent chipout as the blade I found it was easiest to cut themake a couple passes over the table exits the workpiece, I clamped a grooves in the ends while I was set upsaw, flipping the piece between each mitered scrap block to the runner, to cut the grooves in the edges. Thispass to center the groove. behind the workpiece. way the grooves for the splines and the

But cutting the grooves on the ends The bead molding on the edges of door panels will align. Start by making a

of the door frame pieces of the Buffet the mitered pieces raised another con- single pass on each edge and end of theServer is a different story. For starters, cern. Because this molding stands frame pieces. Then instead of flippingIwasconcernedaboutkeepingthelong proud of the front face of the frame the workpiece to widen the grooves,mitered pieces steady while at the same piece, only the back face can be placed you'll have to reposition the rip fence.time keeping the end flat on the table as against the rip fence of the table saw. After making the initial pass on eachit passed over the blade. This keeps the groove centered on the of the ends, reposition the fence to

Fortunately, the solution to this thickestportionoftheworkpiece. sneak up on the final width of theproblem is simple. I just clamped a Note: In order to cut a groove on the groove (Fig. 1a). Once the fence is setscrap to the workpiece to act as a opposite end of each workpiece, you'll and locked, finish cutting the rest of therunner along the top of the rip fence have to unclamp the backer block and grooves on the edges and ends.

RUNNER

x x - BACKERBLOCK

FLIP BACKERCLAMP PAD BLOCK TO

CUT GROOVE //ON OTHER END

UPONWIDTHOFGROOVE

TEA

ME

ASSEMBLY. Before gluing the doors MOUNTING THE DOORS. Now thattogether, I made hardwood splines (S) the doors are completed, the next stepto fit the grooves in the corners. These is to mount them in the case. Sincecan be planed and cut from scrap, but to these are inset doors, it's important thatmake them as strong as possible, make they end up with even gaps all the waysure the length of the grain runs across around. To make this part of the jobthe joint (Fig. 12b). easier, I used no-mortise hinges, which

As you position each spline, be allowed me to adjust the position of thecareful that it doesn't extend into the doors somewhat. (There's more aboutgrooves on the inside corner of the this in the Hardware box at left).workpieces. Otherwise, the plywood HARDWARE. With the doors mounteddoor panel won't fit in. The splines in the opening, I added the other piecesshould stick out along the outside cor- of hardware. First, I mounted brassners of the door frames (Fig. 12b). This knobs with back plates to the insideallows you to trim them perfectly flush door stiles (Fig. 12). Then to hold the A hardwood spline ateach corner of thewith a chisel and some sanding after the doors closed, I added double ball door frame helps reinforce the miterdoors are assembled. catches at the top and bottom of each joint, since this is an end grain to end

I glued and clamped the doors door (refer to Figs. 11a and 11b on grain joint. The splines are planed totogether on a flat surface so I could page 117). For sources of hardware, thickness from scrap to fit the groovescheck for any twist in the frames. refer to page 126. cut in the ends of the frame pieces.

BUFFET SERVER 119

NOTE: USE ½"-THICK

DRAWER 'a. TW VIE1M18

N :D P

BOTT M

All that's left now is to add the drawer. ,,MACHINE- IS ¼" PL

The trick with adding a wide drawer is 1 cUT DOVETAILS (17¾" x 31¾")

to get it to slide in and out smoothly. To N

make this work, the weight of thedrawer is supported at the sides, but thedrawer is guided in and out of the 15 , , , . .

opening by a couple of runners on the O · · • : •.

bottom of the drawer that straddle a

drawer guide fastened to the case.FRONT AND SIDEs. The first thing to

do is to measure the opening in thebuffet. (Mine was 5½" x 32".) The front(U) and sides (V) are ripped ¼" shorterthan the opening (5¼") (Fig. 14). (Afalse front will be added later.) And thefront (U) is cut ½" less than the width of

the opening (31¼").To join the front and sides of the

drawer, I routed ½" half-blind dovetailswith a dovetail jig (Fig. 146). Then tohold a ¼" plywood drawer bottom, cut a

¼"-deep groove along the bottom of

each piece. Just as you did for the doorframes, these grooves are cut bymaking two passes over the saw blade.

Then, to hold the back between the

sides, cut a ¼"-wide dado across eachside toward one end (Fig. 14a).

BACK AND BOTTOM. Now the drawer each side piece to accept some side run-back (W) can be cut to size from ½" ners (Fig. 14). Then the drawer can bestock. It doesn't match the height of the glued together.sides. The back is only 4¾" high SIDE RUNNERS.To mount the drawer, Sppggybecause it stops flush with the groove at the first thing I did was add the ¼"-thick I

the bottom. And it's cut to length to fit side runners (Y) to the case. These The combined width of thebetween the dadoes in the sides. hardwood runners support the weight spacer and drawer runner

Note: When the drawer is assem- of the drawer (Fig.15). Round the front should be 1/16" more thanbled, the back sits on top of the drawer ends of the runners to match the the distance from the top of

bottom. This makes a smooth surface grooves in the drawer sides (Fig.15a). the groove to the bottom of

the depth of the drawer for attaching To allow the drawer to slide the drawer side.

the runners later (refer to Fig. 17). smoothly, the runners have to be posi-

To get the back to fit between the tioned so the drawer will sit just above

sides, cut a rabbet on each end of the the stretchers. The easiest way to do

back piece to create tongues that fit in this is to cut a spacer to set the runnerthe dadoes (Fig. 14a). Then I dry- on (see the Shop Tip at right). (The run-assembled the drawer and cut a bottom ners butt against the back of the case.)

(X) from ¼" maple plywood. GUIDE. The next piece to add is theBefore gluing the drawer together, ¾"-thick drawer guide (Z) inside the

rout a stopped groove on the outside of case (Fig. 15). It's cut 1½" longer than

120 CABINETS

16

e DRAWER

CENTERRUNNER

(V4" x ½" - 17½")

8. FRONT SECTION VIEW

SHOP TIP·

WHEN INSTALLING RUNNERS, CUTSPACER TO MATCH WIDTH OF GUIDEAND TAPE IT TO DRAWER BOTTOM

the distance between the front and back 18stretchers (E). Then a ¾" x ½" rabbetis cut on each end (Fig. 15a).

To add the guide, all you need to dois center it in the opening and glue it inplace. The critical thing is that it's par-allel to the sides and square to thestretchers (Fig. 15b).

CENTER RUNNERS. The guide (byitself) doesn't keep the drawer alignedas the drawer moves in and out. To com-plete the guide system, you need to addtwo center runners (AA) to the bottomof the drawer. These ¼" x ½" pieces areeasy to make, but positioning themtakes a bit more work.

To do this, I set the drawer in placeand centered it side-to-side. Then I

reached inside the case and traced theguide onto the drawer bottom (Fig. 16).After removing the drawer, I cut a

spacer the same size as the guide andclamped it between the layout lines.Now it's a simple matter to glue the run-ners in place (Fig. 17).

FALSE FRONT. All that's left now is to

add the false front (BB) to the drawer.The trick is cutting it to final size. That'sbecause you have to account for the ½"edging just like on the doors.

To do this, I started with the draweropening (5½" x 32") and then sub-tracted from each edge 1/16" for the gapbetween the drawer and case and ½"for the edging.

With the false front cut to size, I

added the edging (CC) around the out-side (Fig. 18a and the Technique boxon page 117). (This is similar to theedging on the doors, but this time, thestrips have to be mitered to final sizebefore they're glued in place.) Once the Now all that's left is to add the finish. plywood and solid wood.) Then I

edging is applied, you can center the I removed the hardware and stained the applied a few coats of a wipe-onfalse front on the drawer front, screw it buffet with a cherry stain. (This evens polyurethane finish. This provides a

in place, and add the pulls (Fig. 18b). out any color differences between the durable finish on the buffet top. -

BUFFET SERVER 121

hen it came to the top, the template shouldselecting hinges for always be placed on the out-

the folding top of the Buffet side face of each workpiece.Server, I was concerned with Note: To position the tem-two things --- strength and plate, I drew a line on myappearance. So I selected workpiece to align with theSoss hinges. template's centerline.

Soss hinges are a type of With the template in"invisible" hinge. Instead of a place, mark the four holehinge pin, the two leaves of locations for each hinge withthe hinge are connected by a a a sharp awl (Step 1)."knuckle" made of inter- TRANSFER LOCATIONS.locking fingers. When the After marking the center-hinge is closed, the knuckle points of the holes, use a

joint folds into itself, within a square and a sharp pencil to

pocket in the hinge (see - si draw guidelines throughphoto). The result is a con- each centerpoint (Detail 'a'cealed hinge that provides strong mortise, a Soss hinge requires a inStep1).Theselinesareneededlatermechanical support. rounded, deep mortise (see photo on for aligning a dowel jig.

MORTISES.Like a butt hinge, a Soss opposite page). Now the hole locations can be laidhinge fits into a pair of mortises cut on Normally, I would make each mor- out on the other piece. But this calls foreach piece. But that's where the simi- tise by drilling a series of holes on a drill some creative thinking. In order for thelarity ends. Instead of a shallow, square press and then cleaning up the mor tises two pieces to line up once the hinges

with a chisel. But because the folding are installed, both sets of hinge mor-top pieces of the buffet that receive the tises must be laid out identically. But

H E hinges are too tall to be supported on a using a tape or ruler to lay out identicaldrill press, I had to use a hand-held drill. hole locations isn't a reliable method,This created some interesting chal- since it's easy for errors to creep in.

DRILL lenges (more on that later). Instead, I transferred the hole loca-HU DE tions directly from the first piece to the

¼" DEEP LAYOUT second piece. To do this, hammer foursmall brads halfway into the hole loca--E To help lay out the holes that create tions on the first workpiece. Then snip

each hinge mor tise, Soss provides a off the heads of the brads, leaving about

FOLD I I E

paper template (see drawing at left). ¼" exposed (Step 2).LINE

HODLEEES ½" To use the template, simply fold it Now to transfer the hole locations,over on the line and place it on the edge simply place both workpieces on a flatof the workpiece where you wish to surface against a straight edge. (I usedinstall the hinge (Step 1). the rip fence on my table saw.) The

Just keep in mind that since the mor- fence ensures the ends of the pieces aretises aren't centered on the thickness of flush. A quick rap with a mallet trans-

AUGN WORKPIECES

PATTER

Place the template on the edge of the workpiece and use an To transfer the hole locations, drive a small brad into each ofawl to mark the four hole locations foreach mortise. To aid in the holes made by the awl. After snipping off the heads of

positioning a dowel jig later draw layout lines on the edge of the the brads, butt the mating workpieces together and tap themboard through each of the holes (detail 'a'). with a mallet to mark the locations on the adjoining workpieces.

122 CABINETS

fers the locations from one to another first (Detail 'a'in Step 3). Then a series(Step 2). Then remove the brads. of deeper holes are drilled in the center.

(For the hinges used on the buffet, I ,

INSTALL ATION used a ¾"-dia. drill bit.)The depth of the shallow end holes is

Now that the layout is complete, you important since they determine thecan begin drilling the mortises. position of the hinge once it's installed.

DOWEL jlG. When it comes to drilling (The hinge should sit just a hair belowthe holes for the mortises, there are the surface.) Unfortunately, there isn'tthree things to look out for. First, the any way to test the fit until after the mor-holes have to be drilled to the right tise is completed. But if you drill the enddepth. Second, they have to be parallel holes ¼" deep, the hinge should sit at Stepped mortise. A Soss hinge is mor-with the face of the workpiece. And justtherightheight. tised into the edges of mating work-finally, they have to be drilled straight. Note: I wrapped a piece of masking pieces. Each mortise is "stepped." It's

Instead of trying to steady the work- tape around my drill bit to serve as a deeper in the middle to accommodatepieces on edge while drilling the mor- depth guide (Detail 'a'in Step 3). And the bodyof the hinge.tises on the drill press, I used a hand- once Ihad the tape positioned correctly,held drill and a dowel jig (Step 3). The I drilled the end holes for all the mor- Once all the holes have been drilled,dowel jig keeps the holes lined up and tises at this time. clean up the sides of the mortise care-prevents the drill bit from wandering in The center section of the mortise is fully with a chisel (Step 5).the tough end grain of the workpiece. deeper than the ends to provide room Note: To prevent splitting the thin

Note: If you have a self-centering for the main body of the hinge (see wall of the mortise, I clamped the work-type of dowel jig, you'll need to place a photo at right). This pocket is created piece and a support board in a vise.spacer between the jig and your work- by drilling three ½"-deep holes to Installing the hinges is simple - it'spiece in order to drill off-center holes. remove the waste (Step 4). just a matter of inserting each leaf into a

DRILLING THE HOLES. The waste is Note: The depth of these holes isn't mortise and using the screwholes as a

drilled out in two steps. Shallow holes as critical. Just make sure they are at guide for drilling pilot holes (Step 6).are drilled at each end of the mortise least ½" deep. Then screw the hinges in place.

DRILL ALL END REPOSITIONHOLE5 FIRST / / TAPE DEPHi

.(

USE AND DRILL 3. TAPE MARKS

D THCENTER HOLES M MUFM

/ OWEL

AUGN JIG H

WITH LAYOUT UNE I

ii If II I /Align the dowel jig with the first layout line. Then using a 3/e"- 4 After drilling the end holes in all the pieces, reposition thedia. brad-point bit, drill a %"-deep hole. Use a piece of tape depth stop to drill a ½"-deep hole. Then drill out the

masking tape on the bit as a depth gauge. Drill all the end holes waste in the center of the mortises, again using the layout linesfor all hinges before readjusting the masking tape depth gauge. to align the dowel jig.

PLAŒ SUPPORTBOARD AGAINSTSIDE OF WORKPIECE

CLEANUP SIDESOFMORTISEWITH

5 After drilling all the holes, the mortise can be cleaned up with To install the mounting screws (No. 5 x 3/4"), place the hingea chisel. To prevent splitting the thin sidewall of the offset in the mortise and drill pilot holes, using the hinge itself as a

mortise, clamp a scrap piece to the side of the workpiece for guide. Be careful not to overtighten the screws or the threadsadditional support. will strip out the end grain.

BUFFET SERVER 123

DESIGNERESNWEB• •KSimple things change the look of the buffet server entirely, like adding muntins to the door panels andusing stub tenons and grooves to connect the rails and stiles. New hardware completes the design.

CONSTRUCTIONNOTES:

a The base front (K) and sides (L) onthis mission-style buffet server will stay ------:the same as before, except that the basefront (K) has a differentprofile (Fig. 1).

¯¯

Start by making this profile before cut-ting the miters on the ends (Fig. 1).Once that's complete, rout 1/2" cham-fers along the top edge of the base frontand sides, see chamfer detail below.

Note: See page 115 for a tip on usinga straight guide to keep the newly cutedge of the base piece straight.a Next, make the sub-top (N) with thesame 1/2" chamfers that were added to

the front and side base pieces (Fig. 2).m After the folding top (O) has been cutto size, use sandpaper to ease the sharpedges all the way around (Fig. 2). Then .J

cut it into four pieces as before, and addthe hinges.a The new drawer false front (BB) willhave a routed raised panel. The edging --

(CC) is removed as well (Fig. 3).a First, make the drawer false front MISSION-STYLE(BB) fromsolidwood,crosscuttingand BUFFET SERVERripping it to size. To determine the sizeof this version, add ½" to the width and

¼" to the length of the drawer front(U). (My false front is 5¾" x 31½".)m To cut the raised panel, I rabbeted thefalse front using a

3/4" straight bit in my CHANGED PARTS NEW PARTS

router (mounted in a router table). K Base Front (1) ¾ x 4 - 34¾ DD Vert. Muntins (4) ¼ x ½ - 18½

Partially bury the bit in the router fence, L Base Sides (2) ¾ x 2- 22 rgh. EE Horz. Mu ntins (4) ¼ x ½ - 12

P Door Stiles (4) ¾ x 2 -22½ Note: Do not need parts R, S, or CC.leaving 1/2" exposed. Raise the bit to the

Q Door Rails (4) % x 2 - 12¾desired height (¼") above the table and T Door Panels (2) ¼ ply -12 ¾ x18¾ HARDWARE SUPPLIESrout the rabbet (Fig. 3). BB False Front (1) % x 5¾ - 31¼ Need two pair of 2" butt hinges and four

Note: Rout the end grain of the mission-styleringpullsw/#8-32x1½"drawer first, using a piece of scrap to machine screws.

back it up to minimize chipout.

-SAND Ys" CHAMFER

TOP -

BS4

45

SUBERH NGS

CHAMFER DETAIL1

124 TRADITIONAL FURNITURE

m Now center and mount the drawer 3false front as before, making sure toleave ½" reveals at the top and sides.a Finally, lay out the location of the miersion-style ring pulls and drill the holes forthe mounting screws (Fig. 3). Add thepulls after the fmish has been applied.m I also changed the look of the doors.Once again, I eliminated the beadedging (R). And instead of framing thedoor panels with mitered rails andstiles, I used stub tenons and grooves.m Start by ripping and crosscutting thestiles (D) to length (Fig. 4). They'resized to leave ½6" gaps at the top andbottom, once the doors are installed.- To determine the length of the rails(Q), measure the width of the dooropening and subtract the combined a.width of the four stiles. Divide thisnumber by 2 and add ¾" to their lengthto allow for the stub tenons (Fig. 4).(My rails were 123/4".) 12¾ NON

UEm Once the rails and stiles are cut to 4½ ANDlength, cut centered grooves on their ENTO

D

inside edges. These grooves will accept ON STOCK

the stub tenons and the door panel. I cut 1ENONAND GROOVEeach groove in two passes using a reg- DETAIL

ular saw blade in my table saw. It's sizedto hold the ¼" plywood panels. 22½

a Now cut the stub tenons on the rails, .sizing them to fit the grooves (Fig. Ja).m Next, cut the door panels (T) to sizeand glue up the doors (Fig. 4).m Before going on to the muntins, you'llhave to mortise the doors to hold thedoor hinges (Fig. 4). The mortises arethe full depth of the hinges. I laid them A 2

out (as shown in Fig. Ab), and cut themST LEwith a sharp chisel. RAIL

Note: You may have to trim ¾4" fromthe inside edges of the doors to fit theopening of the server. You want to end upwith a

1/16" gap between the doors aftermounting the hinges. 18½ s

a Next, I made the vertical (DD) andhorizontal (EE) muntins. They're rippedfrom solid stock. An easy way to do tliiS 2 ½ VERTICAL MUNTIN

is to use an extra-wide blank for all of the12NOTE: WIDTH ¼muntins and then cut the half-laps acrOSS OF HALF-LAPS

the blank before ripping them to size. "MAUNT DTH

- To locate the half-laps, set the table -2 I HORIZONTAL

saw's rip fence to cut the first half-lap. MUNTIN

After cutting a half-lap on one end of themuntins, flip the piece end-for-end tocut the half-lap on the other end. Finally,rip the muntins to width (Fig. 5)

a Now all that's left is to glue themuntins to the door panels (Fig. 5a).Once the glue for the muntins has setup, you can add the door and drawerhardware and hang the doors.

BUFFET SERVER 125

SOURCES

One of the first things we take into con-sideration when designing projects at MAIL ORDER SOURCESWoodsnuth is whether the hardware is

affordable and commonly available. Most Some of the most important "tools" one or more of these catalogs. Manyof the hardware and supplies for the pro. you can have in your shop are your even offer online ordering.jects in this book can be found at local mail order catalogs. The ones listed Note: The information below washardware stores or home centers. below are filled with special hardware, current when this book was printed.Sometimes, though, you may have to order tools, finishes, lumber, and supplies August Home Publishing does nothardware through the mail. If that's the that can't be found at a local hard- guarantee these products will be

case, we've tried to find reputable sources ware store or home centers. You available nor endorse any specificwithtoll-freephonenumbersandwebsites shouldbeabletofindmanyofthesup- mail order company, catalog, or(see the box at right). plies for the projects in this book in product.

In addition, Woodsmith ProjectSupplies offers hardware for some of the TNE WOODSMITH STORE LEE VALLEY TOOLS LTD,projects in this book (see below). 2625 Beaver Avenue P.O. Box 1780

Note:Westronglyrecommendthatyou Des Moines, IA 50310 Ogdensburg, NY 13669-6780have all of your hardware and supplies in 800-835-5084 800-871-8158hand before you begin building any project· Our own retail store with tools, jigs, www.leevalley.comThere's nothing more discouraging than hardware, books, and finishing sup- Several catalogs actually, with toolscompleting a project and then finding out plies. We don't have a catalog, but we and hardware. In the hardware cat-that the hardware you ordered doesn't fit do send out items mail order. alog you'll find pulls, hinges, mag-or is no longer available. netic catches, and necklace pegs.CONSTANTINE'S

1040 E. Oakland Park Blvd. WOODWORRER'S SUPPLYWOODSMRH Ft. Lauderdale, FL 33334 1108 North Glenn RoadPROJECT SUPPLIES 954-561-1716 Casper, WY 82601

www.constantines.com 800--645-9292At the time this book was printed, One of the original woodworking mail www.woodworker.comthe following project supply kits order catalogs. Find hinges, pulls, You'll fmd a good selection of pullsand hardware were available from and finishing supplies including gel and hardware, router bits, and mag-Woodsmith Project Supplies.The stains and rubbing compounds. netic catches.kits include hardware, but youmust supply any lumber, plywood, ROCKLER WOODWORKING & VAN DYKE'S RESTORERSor fmish. For current prices and HARDWARE

P.O. Box 278availability, call toll free: 4365 Willow Drive Woonsocket, SD 57385

1-800-444-7527 Medina, MN 55340 800-558-1234800-279-4441 www.vandykes.com

Coffee Table www.rockler.com An amazing collection of reproduc-(pages 20-29) Avery good catalog of hardware and tion hardware, plus cabriole legs, fin-

This kit contains full-size patterns accessories, including dovetail jigs, ishing supplies and lots more.

for the apron and table top.pulls, hinges.

ADAMS woon PRODucTs..........No. 8005224 _wooocRAFT

974 Forest DriveMantel Clock 560 Airport Industrial Park Morristown, TN 37814(pages 56-65) P.O. Box 1686 423-587-2942This kit contains only the shop

Parkersburg, WV 26102-1686 www.adamswoodproducts.com

drawings. Clock works can be800-225-1153 They specialize in turning blanks and

obtained from sources listed atwww.woodcraft.com cabriole legs of all sizes and in many

right.............................No. 7119250 kmost everythingyou'd need, from types of wood.layout to hardware to finishing sup-

Chairside Chest plies. Agood selection of hinges and BLACK FOREST IMPORTS(pages 8&95) router bits, plus dovetail jigs. 22865 Savi Ranch Pkwy., Unit "D"The nylon glide tape is available Yorba Linda, CA 92887by the foot. ..................No.1006104 800-824-0900

www.blackforestimports.comKEY:TL10 A wide variety of traditional clock

works and accessories.

126 SOURCES

INDEX

A BCDE jKL Sizing splines, 48

Backrouting, 25 Jewelry Cabinet, 96-109 Straight guide, 115Bead molding, 11, 68, 69, 117 Jigs Trimming edging flush, 114Book Stand, 76-83 Compound miter assembly jig, 68 Trimming inlay flush, 17

Bow-Front End Table, 30-43 Compound miter sled, 71 Spindle turning template, 81

Buffet Server, 110-125 Indexing jig, 99 Splines, 48, 93, 118, 119Cabriole legs, 22, 28, 103, 106-109 Long stock drilling jig, 82 Grooves for, 93, 119

Leg-clamping jig, 21 Leg clamping jig, 21 Square-Leg Book Stand, 83

Sources, 126 Molding miter box, 89Chairside Chest, 86-95 Molding miter jig, 60 TUVClassic Frames, 66-75 Oval-cutting jig, 52-55 TablesClock Rub arm, 39 Bow-Front End Table, 30-43

Mantel, 56-65 Small miter box, 11 Coffee Table, 20-29

Quartz, 61 Tenon jig, 59 Curved-FrontTable, 8-19

Coffee Table, 20-29 Joinery Single Drawer, 43

Compound miters, 71 Dovetail, 94, 120 Profiled Legs and Top, 18

Coves, 67, 70, 72, 74 Dowel, 83 Three Table Set, 28-29

Sanding block, 73 Mortise and tenon, 78-79, 88, 91 Templates, 12, 16, 23, 24, 36, 41, 81,

Curved-FrontTable, 8-19 Kerf bending, 15 103, 106, 122

Curves, routing, 37 Legs Three Drawer Chest, 95

Doors, 64, 102, 117-118 Cabriole, 22, 28, 103, 106-109 Traditional Clock, 65

Drawers, 38, 93-94, 95, 101, 120-121 Factory-made, 22

Bow-front, 40-41 Fluted, 32-33 WXY IFalse-front, 121 Tapered, 10, 83 Web frames, 35, 90-92

Lining, 101 Turned, 80

Edging, bead, 117MNOMantel Clock, 56-65

Finishing Oval Mirror, 46-55Gel stains, 26

Hand-rubbed, 42 PQRLiquid stains, 27 PatternsStaining end grain, 26 Bow-Front Table edging, 36

Stain and paint, 69 Buffet Server ogee curve, 115Wood conditioner, 27 Cabriole leg, 106

Flush trim bit, 13, 25 Coffee Table apron, 23

Flutes, 32 Coffee Table top, 24

Routing, 33 Jewelery Cabinet apron, 103Frames Raised Panel Jewelry Cabinet, 105

Classic, 66-75Hanging heavy frames, 51 5

Mirror, 46-55 Shop TipsMounting and hanging, 75 Backrouting, 25

Catch installation, 103H I Centering a mortise, 78

Hardware Checking for square, 79

Brass pegs, 104 Chip-free rabbets, 10

Drawer pulls, 39, 94, 104, 121 Cove sanding block, 73

Hinges, 64-65, 79, 102 Drawer bottom groove, 94

Magnetic catches, 64, 103 Drawer openings, 92

No-mortise hinges, 118 Drawing a partial ellipse, 16

Nylon glide tape, 91 Enlarging a round tenon, 81

Push points, 51 Modifying a bit, 49

Soss hinges, 122-123 Pull layout, 39

Sources, 126 Quick and easy grid, 24

Teardrop pulls, 104 Router pilot strip, 17

Z-shaped fasteners, 25, 29 Sanding block, 41

Inlay, 17 Spacer, 120

INDEX 127

AUGUST HOMEÁ L únLismiNa cou ÄNy

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