CULTURALTOURISM

Ajrak: A Sindhi Tradition and Living craft

58Islamic Tourism – Issue 35 – May-June / 2008 For more information, visit our website www.islamictourism.com

Indus River

> By M.Zubair TahirPhotos: Faraz Ahmed

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Ajrak is a block printed cloth with deep crimson red and indigo blue background,bearing symmetrical patterns with interspersed unprinted sparkling white motifs,mostly stars. Made of cotton its suppleness reminds us of smooth silk. More than afabric, Ajrak is a Sindhi tradition, traceable from the earliest archeological finds of theold Indus civilization of Moen –Jo-Dero. It has been equally popular from timesimmemorial till today among its urban, rural and nomad users.

A jrak is literally used in Sindh from thecradle to the grave. It is used as a

hammock for infants, headgear for girls, abridal accessory, a turban and a shawl, a

bed cover, a table cloth, a gift item andtoken of respect to honor a guest, as aweather protection being cool in summerand warm in winter and last but not least

as a farewell wrap, like a flag to honor thedeparting dear souls. Most of the stateheads and dignitaries of Pakistan have usedAjrak in their public meetings to show�

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CULTURALTOURISM

Islamic Tourism – Issue 35 – May-June / 2008 For more information, visit our website www.islamictourism.com

respect and as a token of solidarity forSindh province.To get a first hand idea of how it is made wevisited the small towns of Mityari, Bhit Shahand Hala located in and nea Mityari districtof Sind province of Pakistan.Bhit Shah is known on account of the shrineof the great Sindhi mystic poet "Shah AbdulLatif Bhittai" whose famous poetic

masterpiece "Shah Jo Risalo" (Shah’sjournal)" occupies a place next to none inold and modern Sindhi literature. A visit toBhit Shah opens the door to "Sindhology"the specialization of the Indus (Sindh) valleycivilization – as " Egyptology' is to theancient Egyptian civilization. Mitiari isknown for ajrak craftsmanship, whereasHala town is the marketplace of all the

handicrafts including Ajrak, Sindhiembroidery, lacquered woodwork, typicalglazed tiles in blue and white "Kashi"artwork, terracotta and some typical wovenfabrics like "Soosi'.The urge to mention the stunning beauty ofthe scenic panorama along the highwayduring a drive from Karachi to these placesis simply irresistible. The misty twilight, the

Local Sindhi people óæ°ùdG á≤£æe »a »dÉgC’G

Finished ajrak á«FÉ¡ædG ¬à∏Môe »a ∑GôLC’G

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Ajrak printing ∑GôLC’G ™ÑW

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CULTURALTOURISM

Islamic Tourism – Issue 35 – May-June / 2008 For more information, visit our website www.islamictourism.com

Mustard field ∫OôîdG π≤M

wide stretches of green and yellowmustard fields in full bloom, attractivebanana and mango plantations,widespread lush green fields of wheatinterspersed with working village girlsdressed in luminescent yellow, green,crimson and orange colors, with occasionalcolorful floral nurseries in full bloom, and

Printing mixture

pure white migratory birds in their elegantflight over the old Sindh River are only a fewglimpses of the tour. The legendary Pakistani folk singer "AllanFaqir" with his down to earth personalityhas been an inspiring performing artist withhis stylish Ajrak attire including his dancingpeacock like turban made of Ajrak. Color is

the continuous phase of the "music in thecolour emulsion" of Sindhi society.The Muslim rulers used to award "Khilat"(anexpensive gown) in recognition of the servicesof their courtiers. I think Muslim Sindhi rulersalso continued the tradition andawarded"Ajrak" in recognition of outstandingperformances or the valuable services rendered

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Processing ajrak ∑GôLC’G πªY

Printed ajrak ´ƒÑ£ªdG ∑GôLC’G

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CULTURALTOURISM

Islamic Tourism – Issue 35 – May-June / 2008 For more information, visit our website www.islamictourism.com

by individuals, as it is customarily conferredeven today upon respectable guests.Considering the different processes involved,particularly printing which is the heart of thecraft, Ajrak making seems to be a scientificart. The technique of resist printing allowsexclusive absorption of a dye in the desiredareas only and prevents absorption on theareas intended to be left uncolored. It seemsto be like differential staining used inmicroscopy wherein different microbes arestained and fixed selectively.On February 22, 2008, the two hundredsixty first anniversary of Shah Abdul LatifBhitai was celebrated and a public holidaywas observed throughout Sindh province. The famous German orientalist Marry AnneSchimmel visited this shrine twice. Well-known scholar Mrs.Elsa Qazi translatedShah –Jo-Risalo selectively in verse. It is apure spiritual delight to know howbeautifully Shah Latif Bhittai created thedivine melody from his earthy, aridenvironment, and how finely Mrs.Elsa Qazicaptured its essence. Symbolic use of camel,saltbush and washing etc. strongly suggests

that Ajrak was very much in use at least inShah Latif Bhittai’s times;

"Like fresh pan-leaves are shawls theywear of shimmering emerald silk'

"Beautiful like roses sweetare robes of damsels fair"(Elsa Qazi from Mumal and Rano)

There was a time when princely Hoatmy clothes to wash did choose;Now even camelmen refuseto take me with themselvesMy gown is at my shoulders torn;alas my head is bareO sisters in Bhambore fairwhat have I now to do?(Elsa Qazi from Saui:Hussaini)

I bound him near some glorious treeThat he some buds may eatIll-mannered camel, on the slyStill finds the saltbush sweet.Woes me-I know not how to treatCamel that so confounds(Elsa Qazi from Sur Khumbat)

Washing before printing ¬©ÑW πÑb ∑GôLC’G π°ùZCamels ∫ɪL

Wooden printing blocks á«Ñ°ûîdG ™Ñ£dG ÖdGƒb

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