Time Dependent Impact Load on Rope

download Time Dependent Impact Load on Rope

of 12

Transcript of Time Dependent Impact Load on Rope

  • 8/11/2019 Time Dependent Impact Load on Rope

    1/12

    Research ArticleDOI: 10.1002/jst.62

    Time-dependent behavior of ropes under impact loading: adynamic analysisIgor Emri, Anatoly Nikonov, Barbara Zupancic and Urska Florjancic

    Center for Experimental Mechanics, University of Ljubljana, and Institute for Sustainable Innovative Technologies,

    Ljubljana, Slovenia

    In this paper, we present new methodology based on a simple, non-standard

    falling-weight experiment, which allows for the examination of the

    functionality and durability of ropes beyond the findings from Union

    Internationale des Associations dAlpinisme experiments. The

    experimentalanalyticalnumerical treatment allows for the examination of

    the time-dependent viscoelasto-plastic behavior of ropes exposed to arbitraryfalling-weight loading conditions. Developed methodology allows for the

    prediction of the impact force and the jolt (the derivative of the acceleration/

    deacceleration acting on the climber); the viscoelastoplastic deformation of

    the rope; stored, retrieved, and dissipated energy during the loading and

    unloading of the rope; and the modification of the stiffness of the rope within

    each loading cycle. By means of parametric error analysis, we showed that

    the relation between the error of calculated data and the error of input data is

    extremely non-linear. This demands careful and precise experiments. It was

    shown that the accuracy of prediction of all sought-after physical quantities

    could be obtained within the acceptable limits, which confirms that the

    proposed experimentalanalytical methodology may be used for analyses of

    the functionality and durability of ropes and the safety of climbers. &2008

    John Wiley and Sons Asia Pte Ltd

    1. INTRODUCTION

    Climbing is becoming one of the fastest growing extreme

    sports. In this sport, ropes are probably the most critical part

    of the equipment. Climbing ropes are designed to secureclimbers, and for that reason, they are dynamic; this means

    that they are designed to stretch under a high load so as to

    absorb the shock force. This protects the climber by reducing

    fall forces. In comparison, static ropes are more durable and

    resistant to abrasion and cutting, but they lack the necessary

    protection against shock loads produced in a climber fall. For

    that reason, they are used only in situations where such shock

    loads would never occur (e.g. rappelling, canyoneering, and

    spelunking) [1].

    Ropes should have good mechanical properties, such as

    high-breaking strength, large elongation at rupture, and goodelastic recovery. The Union Internationale des Associations

    dAlpinisme (UIAA) has established standard testing proce-

    dures to measure, among other things, how ropes react to se-

    vere falls [2,3]. The international standard test for climbing

    ropes is based on a standard dynamic drop test . Ropes are

    drop tested with a standardized weight and procedure simu-

    lating a climber fall. This tells us how many of these hy-

    pothetical falls the rope can withstand before it ruptures.

    Different rope categories have different norms, but the stan-

    dard requires climbing ropes to withstand a minimum of five

    such test falls. Virtually all of the ropes on the market can

    withstand the minimum number of test falls, while some are

    *Center for Experimental Mechanics, Faculty of Mechanical Engineer-

    ing, University of Ljubljana, Pot za Brdom 104, 1000 Ljubljana,

    Slovenia

    E-mail: [email protected]

    Keywords:. ropes. impact. viscoelasticity. time-dependent behavior

    . jolt

    . energy dissipation

    & 2008 John Wiley and Sons Asia Pte Ltd Sports Technol.2008, 1, No. 45, 20821908

    Time-dependent behavior of ropes

  • 8/11/2019 Time Dependent Impact Load on Rope

    2/12

    rated to withstand a much higher number. The second thing that

    a standard drop test measures is the amount of force that is

    transmitted to the falling climber. For all of the tests, these forces

    must stay within a certain range. The standard also rates factors,

    such as rope stiffness, sheath slippage, and rope stretch under

    body weight. Different simplified testing procedures are pre-

    scribed for each of these properties. For example, rope stiffness

    in a standardized test is measured by tying an overhand knot,exposing the knot to a 10-kg load, and then measuring the size of

    the hole in the knot. This test is known as the knot-ability test,

    which indicates the handling and suppleness of a rope. Ac-

    cording to the procedure prescribed by the standard, the hole

    must measure less than 1.1 times the rope diameter. By all

    means, these are very practical ways for rapid testing; however,

    they provide no information on the underlying mechanisms that

    govern the time-dependent behavior of ropes.

    The standard says little about the durability of ropes,

    which is more difficult to define or assess with simplified pro-

    cedures commonly used by rope manufacturers. Durability in

    this case does not mean just failure of the rope, but rather,

    deterioration of its time-dependent response when exposed toan impact force. The experiments prescribed by the existing

    standard are not geared to analyze the time-dependent de-

    formation process of the rope, which causes structural changes

    in the material, and consequently affects its durability.

    In this paper, we present a comprehensive dynamic analysis

    of a simple, non-standard falling-weight experiment, which

    allows for the examination of the time-dependent viscoelas-

    toplastic behavior of ropes exposed to arbitrary falling-weight

    loading conditions. Developed analytical treatment is subse-

    quently examined by using the synthetic experimental data.

    By means of the parametric error analysis, we determine the

    required precision of all measured physical quantities used in

    the derived analytical equations for physical quantities thatdetermine the durability of ropes and the safety of climbers.

    2. THEORETICAL TREATMENT

    The time-dependent response of a rope under dynamic

    loading generated by a falling mass may be retrieved from the

    analysis of the force measured at the upper fixture of the rope.

    This force is transmitted through the rope and acts on the

    falling weight (mass), as schematically shown in Figure 1. In

    such experiments, a mass is dropped from an arbitrary height,

    hp2l0, where l0 is the length of the tested rope.

    Force measured as function of time, Ft, may be expressedas a set ofNdiscrete data pairs:

    Ft fFi; ti; i 1; 2; 3; ; Ng 1

    An example of such measured force is schematically shown in

    Figure 2. The diagram is subdivided into three distinct phases:

    A, B, and C.

    In phase A, the weight (mass) is dropped at t50, and it

    falls freely until t t0ffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi

    2h=gp

    , whereh indicates the height

    from which the mass was initially dropped. Here the rope

    becomes straight, which is indicated in Figure 2 as point T0. If

    we neglect the air resistance, the velocity of the mass at point

    T0is v0 ffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi2ghp . Point T0represents the end of the free-falling

    phase of the mass, and the beginning of phase B, which is the

    beginning of the rope deformation process.

    At point T0 in phase B, where t t t0 0, the falling

    mass starts to deform the rope. Neglecting the air resistance,and the wave propagation in the rope, the equation of motion

    of the moving mass between points T0 and T7 may be written

    as:

    m xt mg Ft 2

    Here, m is the mass of the weight, and g is the gravitational

    acceleration; xt denotes the second derivative of the weight

    displacement, xt, measured from point T0. Thus, xt re-

    presents the time-dependent deformation of the rope. The

    solution of equation 2 gives the displacement of the weight as

    the function of time, which is equal to the viscoelastoplastic

    deformation of the rope:

    xt gt2

    2 1

    m

    Z t0

    Z l0

    Fudu

    dlC1tC2 3

    Constants C1 and C2 may be obtained from the initial condi-

    tions at point T0:

    xt 0 0; and _xt 0 v0 ffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi

    2ghp

    4

    Therefore:

    C2 0 5

    and

    C1 v0 1

    m

    Z t0

    Fldl

    t0

    v0 6

    l0

    mg

    mm

    F(t)

    F(t)

    F(t)

    F(t)

    m

    h

    t = t0

    l0

    mg

    mm

    F(t)

    F(t)

    F(t)

    F(t)

    mm

    h

    t = t0

    Figure 1. Schematics of the rope exposed to the falling mass. Here m

    is the mass of the falling weight,his the height from which the mass is

    initially dropped. F(t) is the measured force that is generated in the

    rope,l0is the initial length of the rope, t5 t0is the time when the rope

    becomes straight,g is gravitational acceleration. Reproduced from [3]

    by kind permission of Taylor & Francis.

    Sports Technol. 2008, 1, No. 45, 208219 & 2008 John Wiley and Sons Asia Pte Ltd www.sportstechjournal.com 2

    Time-dependent behavior of ropes

  • 8/11/2019 Time Dependent Impact Load on Rope

    3/12

    Displacement of the weight, which is equal to the deformation

    of the rope, may be expressed now as:

    xt gt2

    2

    1

    m

    Z t0

    Z l0

    Fudu

    dlv0t 7

    Since the deformation of the rope and the displacement of the

    weight are the same, we may now calculate the velocity, the

    acceleration/deacceleration, and the jolt acting on the weight,

    that is, the climber, respectively:

    vt _xt gt 1

    m

    Z t0

    Fldlv0 8

    at xt g Ft

    m 9

    jt _xt 1

    m

    dFt

    dt 10

    At point T1, where t t1, the force acting on the rope

    becomes equal to the weight of the mass, Ft1 mg. At this

    point, the velocity of the weight reaches its maximum value:

    vmax vt1 gt11

    m

    Z t10

    Fldlv0 11

    The location of T1, where t t1 may be found numerically

    from

    dvt

    dt g

    Ft1

    m 0 12

    At T2, the jolt will reach its negative extreme value,

    t t2 tj jmin, where:

    jmin jt2 MIN 1

    m

    dFt

    dt

    13

    The force acting on the rope and on the weight has its max-

    imum at T3, where: t t3 tFFmax, and

    Fmax Ft3 MAXfFi; i 1; 2; 3;. . .;Ng 14

    The deformation of the rope at this point is:

    st3 xFFmax xt3

    gt23

    2

    1

    m

    Z t3

    0

    Z l

    0

    Fudu

    dlv0t3 15

    If the properties of the rope would be elastic, the location of

    the maximum force should coincide with the location of the

    maximal deformation; however, because of the viscoelastic

    nature of the rope, its maximal deformation, s max, will be de-

    layed and will take place at t t4, that is, at point T4, where

    the velocity of the weight is equal to zero:

    v4 vt4 gt4 1

    m

    Z t40

    Fldlv0 0 16

    The time, t4, may be retrieved numerically from equation 16.

    The maximum deformation of the rope is then:

    smax xt4 gt24

    2

    1

    m

    Z t40

    Z l0

    Fudu

    dlv0t4 17

    Now we can calculate the viscoelastic component of the rope

    deformation by subtracting equation 15 from 17:

    svesmaxst3 xt4 xt3

    gt24t

    23

    2 v0t4t3

    1

    m

    Z t4t3

    Z l0

    Fudu

    dl

    18

    The unloading phase of the rope starts at point T4. The elastic

    component of a ropes deformation will be retrieved and will

    Time - t

    Force-

    F(t)

    T4

    T6

    t90 t0 t4t1

    T1mg

    First loading cycle Second loading cycle

    CA B

    t6

    T0

    T4

    T7

    Fmax

    T3

    T9

    t2 t7

    T2 T5

    T8

    0

    t3 t5 t8

    1

    2

    3

    4

    5

    6

    7

    8

    9

    Figure 2. Schematics of the force measured during the falling mass experiment (phases AC). ti, absolute time of individual events in deformation

    process of the rope; ti, relative time of individual events in deformation process of the rope; Fmax, maximum force in the rope;m, mass of the falling

    weight;g, gravitational acceleration;T0, beginning of the loading phase of the rope; T1, the moment when the force in the rope is equal to the weightof the mass; T2, the moment of the extreme negative value of the jolt; T3, the moment of the maximum force in the rope; T4, the moment of the

    maximum deformation of the rope when the velocity of the weight is equal to 0; T5, the moment of the positive extreme value of the jolt; T6, the

    moment when force in the rope is equal to the weight of the load; T7, the moment when the force in the rope is equal to 0 and the weight starts to fly

    in upwards;T8, the moment when the weight reaches the maximum upper point of its free fly in the vertical direction; T9, the beginning of the second

    loading cycle.

    www.sportstechjournal.com & 2008 John Wiley and Sons Asia Pte Ltd Sports Technol.2008, 1, No. 45, 20821910

    Research Article I. Emri et al.

  • 8/11/2019 Time Dependent Impact Load on Rope

    4/12

    accelerate the weight in the opposite (upward) direction. At

    t t5, indicated as point T5, the jolt will reach its positive

    extreme value: t5 tj jmax, where

    jmax jt5 MAX 1

    m

    dFt

    dt

    19

    At T6, where t t6, the force acting on the rope again be-

    comes equal to the weight of the load, Ft6 mg. At thispoint, velocity will obtain its extreme value in the opposite

    (negative) direction:

    vmin vt6 gt6 1

    m

    Z t60

    Fldlv0 20

    Time t6 may be again easily determined numerically from

    Ft6 mg. At point T7, where the force acting on the rope

    becomes equal to zero, Ft7 0, the weight will start its free

    fly in the upward (vertical) direction. The velocity of the weight

    at point T7 may be calculated with equation 8:

    v7 vt7 gt7 1

    m

    Z t70

    Fldlv0 21

    We can also calculate the elastic part of rope deformation, sel,which is equal to the weight displacement during the unloading

    of the rope that takes place between points T4 and T7:

    sel xt4 xt7

    1

    m

    Z t7t4

    Z l0

    Fudu

    dl

    gt27t24

    2 v0t7t4 22

    Furthermore, we can calculate the viscoplastic deformation of

    the rope, svp, by subtracting the recovered elastic deformation,

    sel, from the ropes maximum deformation, smax. Therefore:

    svpsmaxsel xt7 gt27

    2

    1m

    Z t70

    Z l0

    Fudu

    dlv0t7

    23

    By subtracting the viscoplastic (equation 23) and the viscoelastic

    (equation 18) components, we can calculate the plastic compo-

    nent of rope deformation:

    spl svpsve xt7 xt3 xt4 24

    In phase C, point T7 represents the beginning of phase C, in

    which the weight has no interaction with the rope, that is,

    Ft7 0, and starts to fly upwards with the initial velocity: v7,

    v7 vt7 gt7 1

    m

    Z t70

    Fldlv0 25

    It then returns back at point T9 to start the second cycle of the

    rope deformation process. From the velocity,v7, we can calculate

    the time of the weight vertical flight:

    tu v7

    g t7

    1

    mg

    Z t70

    Fldlv0

    g 26

    Furthermore, we are also able to calculate the height, sb, to which

    the weight will be bounced:

    sb v7tugt2u

    2 27

    At point T9, the second loading cycle of the rope starts, which

    may be analyzed with the same set of equations derived for

    phases B and C.

    2.1. ForceDeformation Diagram of the Rope Deformation

    Process: Energy Dissipation

    Energy dissipation during the rope deformation process,

    that is, between points T0and T7, is one of the most important

    rope characteristics, and should be used for comparing the

    quality of ropes. Force,Ft, measured during the loading and

    unloading of the rope in phase B, may be expressed as the

    function of the rope deformation, FFs, as schematically

    shown in Figure 3. Notations used in the Figure are later ex-

    plained.

    The discrete form of FFs interrelation may be

    obtained by calculating the isochronal values of the ropedeformation corresponding to each discrete value of the

    measured force between points T0 and T7:

    Fi Fti; sixti gt2i

    2

    1

    m

    Z ti0

    Z l0

    Fudu

    dlv0ti; 0ptipt7; i 1; 2;. . .;M

    28

    Here, M is the number of measured force data points within

    the time interval 0; t7.

    Fo

    rce

    F(s)

    T0

    Fmax

    T1 T6

    T7

    smax

    selsvp

    Wdis

    kend

    kinit

    T3

    T4

    mg

    s1

    s6

    Deformation - s

    Figure 3. Force deformation diagram of the rope loading and

    unloading phase (phase B). Fmax, maximum force in the rope; m,

    mass of the falling weight;g, gravitational acceleration;T0, beginning

    of the loading phase of the rope; T1, the moment when the force in therope is equal to the weight of the mass; T3, the moment of the

    maximum force in the rope; T4, the moment of the maximum

    deformation of the rope when the velocity of the weight is equal to

    0;T6, the moment when force in the rope is equal to the weight of the

    load;T7, the moment when the force in the rope is equal to 0 and the

    weight starts to fly in upwards; s1 and s6, deformations of the rope

    when the force in the rope becomes equal to the weight of the mass;

    smax, maximum deformation of the rope; svp, viscoplastic part of

    deformation of the rope; sel, elastic part of deformation of the rope;

    kinit, stiffness of the rope at the beginning of loading cycle; kend,

    stiffness of the rope at the end of loading cycle; Wdis, dissipated

    energy of the process.

    Sports Technol. 2008, 1, No. 45, 208219 & 2008 John Wiley and Sons Asia Pte Ltd www.sportstechjournal.com 2

    Time-dependent behavior of ropes

  • 8/11/2019 Time Dependent Impact Load on Rope

    5/12

    The deformation energy of the rope at any stage of

    deformation may be expressed as:

    Wt

    Z st0

    Fxdx

    Z t0

    Fl@xl

    @l dl

    Z t0

    Fl gl 1

    m

    Z l0

    Fuduv0

    dl

    29

    and should be equal to the sum of the kinetic, Wkt, and the

    potential energy, Wpt, of the falling weight at any time:

    Wt Wkt Wpt 30

    We are particularly interested in the stored energy, which is the

    only source of energy absorption (neglecting the air resistance),

    and consequently the reduction of the force acting on

    the climber:

    Wstore

    Z smax0

    Fxdx

    Z t40

    Fl@xl

    @l dl

    Z t4

    0

    Fl gl 1

    m

    Z l

    0

    Fuduv0

    dl

    31

    Since the stored energy must be equal to the total potential

    energy of the weight, then:

    Wstore mghsmax

    mg hgt24

    2

    1

    m

    Z t40

    Z l0

    Fudu

    dlv0t4

    32

    During the unloading phase, the elastic component of the rope

    deformation is retrieved and it accelerates the weight in anupward direction:

    Wret

    Z smaxsvp

    Fxdx

    Z t7t4

    Fl@xl

    @l dl

    Z t7t4

    Fl gl1

    m

    Z l0

    Fuduv0

    dl

    33

    The retrieved energy must be equal to the kinetic energy of the

    mass at point T7. Thus:

    Wret mv27

    2 mg xt4 xt7

    m

    2 gt7

    1

    m

    Z t70

    Fldlv0

    2

    mg xt4 xt7

    34

    The dissipated energy within a loading and unloading cycle,

    represented as the shaded area in Figure 3, can be expressed as:

    WdissWstoreWret

    Z t40

    Fl gl1

    m

    Z l0

    Fuduv0

    dl

    Z t7t4

    Fl gl 1

    m

    Z l0

    Fuduv0

    Z t70

    Fl gl1

    m

    Z l0

    Fuduv0

    dl

    35

    Alternatively:

    Wdiss mghsmax mv27

    2 mg xt4 xt7 36

    2.2. Increase of the Rope Stiffness

    An important parameter for comparing the performance of

    different ropes could be the modification of their stiffness within

    each loading cycle. The rope becomes stiffer in each loading

    cycle, which means that the performance of the rope is de-

    creasing. Thus, an indicator of the quality and rope durability

    could be the ratio of the stiffness at the beginning,kinit, and at

    the end, kend, of the rope deformation process. Therefore:

    w kinit

    kendp1 37

    Stiffness, kinit and kend, may be calculated from the slope of the

    force-displacement diagram Fs at points T1 and T6, as sche-

    matically shown in Figure 3:

    kinit dFx

    dx

    xs1

    38

    Table 1. Physical quantities representing the functionality and durability of ropes.

    n Physical quantity Symbol Corresponding equation

    1 Maximum force Fmax 14

    2 Maximum deformation smax 17

    3 Elastic part of rope deformation sel 22

    4 Viscoplastic part of rope deformation svp smaxsel 23

    5 Viscoelastic part of rope deformation sve 18

    6 Plastic part of rope deformation spl svpsve 24

    7 Stored energy Wstore 31 or 32

    8 Retrieved energy Wret 33 or 34

    9 Dissipated energy Wdiss WstoreWret 35 or 36

    10 Stiffness of the rope at the beginning of deformation kinit 38

    11 Stiffness of the rope at the end of deformation kend 39

    12 Ratio of the stiffness w kinit=kend 3713 Jolt j 10

    www.sportstechjournal.com & 2008 John Wiley and Sons Asia Pte Ltd Sports Technol.2008, 1, No. 45, 20821912

    Research Article I. Emri et al.

  • 8/11/2019 Time Dependent Impact Load on Rope

    6/12

    and

    kenddFx

    dx

    xs6

    39

    where s1 and s6 are rope deformations at corresponding points

    T1 and T6, indicating the beginning and the end of the rope

    deformation process beyond the deformation caused by the

    weight of the falling mass. The stiffness of both is indicated in

    Figure 3.

    3. PARAMETRIC ERROR ANAYLIS

    Based on the measured force, Ft, acting on a rope and a

    climber during the falling-weight experiment, we derived a

    variety of different physical quantities that may be used as

    criteria in the evaluation of the functionality and the durability

    of climbing ropes and the safety of climbers. These physical

    quantities are summarized in Table 1.

    Preliminary experimental investigations [4,5] showed that

    calculated physical quantities (listed in Table 1) are very sen-

    sitive to the precision of the input data, that is, the mass of the

    falling weight, height from which we drop the weight, length ofthe rope, measured force, time at which measurements

    were performed (sampling rate), and number of significant

    digits in gravitational acceleration. To evaluate the effect

    of the input data precision on the accuracy of the

    calculated physical quantities, we will use a synthetic

    error free reference signal, Ft, which closely mimics the

    measured signals:

    Ft F1cos20t Ht H t p

    10

    h iN 40

    where Ht is the Heaviside (step) function, that is,

    Hto0 0, and HtX0 1. The reference signal is shown

    in Figure 4. In addition, we used

    F4000 N; m 80 kg h l 3:263 m

    t9 1:2 sec; and g 9:80665 m=s2

    41

    3.1 Calculation of the Error-Free, Sought-After Physical

    Quantities

    For the parametric error analysis of the characteristic

    physical quantities (Table 1), we will first calculate the

    reference error-free values. We will first need to determinethe characteristic times: t3, t4, and t7. From equation 40,

    it is easy to see that the maximum force, Fmax F, will

    appear at t3 p=20 sec. We determine the location of

    the maximum deformation at T4 by combining equations 40

    and 16:

    gF

    m

    t4

    200

    m sin20t4 v0 0 42

    whereas the location of T7 may be found directly from the

    chosen reference signal, equation 40. Thus:

    t3 p=20 sec t4 0:176026 sec andt7 p

    10

    sec 43

    Introducing equation 40 into equations 7 and 8, we obtain the

    evolution of the rope deformation process, and the

    corresponding velocity of the weight:

    xt gt2

    2 v0t

    F

    m

    t2

    2

    1

    400cos20t 1

    Ht H t p

    10

    h i

    20p

    m 20tpH t

    p

    10

    ;

    44

    Figure 4. Synthetic reference signal F(t). Heret idenotes relative time

    of individual events in deformation process of the rope; Fmax,

    maximum force in the rope; m, mass of the falling weight; g,

    gravitational acceleration;T1, the moment when the force in the rope is

    equal to the weight of the mass; T2, the moment of the extreme

    negative value of the jolt;T3, the moment of the maximum force in the

    rope;T4, the moment of the maximum deformation of the rope when

    the velocity of the weight is equal to 0; T5, the moment of the positive

    extreme value of the jolt; T6, the moment when force in the rope is

    equal to the weight of the load; T7, the moment when the force in the

    rope is equal to 0 and the weight starts to fly in upwards.

    Figure 5. Evolution of the rope deformation process (solid line), and

    the velocity of weight (dashed line). Here tidenotes relative time of

    individual events in deformation process of the rope; t3, the moment

    of the maximum force in the rope; t4, the moment of the maximum

    deformation of the rope when the velocity of the weight is equal to 0;

    t7, the moment when the force in the rope is equal to 0 and the weight

    starts to fly in upwards; smax, maximum deformation of the rope; svp,

    viscoplastic part of deformation of the rope; sel, elastic part of

    deformation of the rope; sve, viscoelastic part of deformation of the

    rope.

    Sports Technol. 2008, 1, No. 45, 208219 & 2008 John Wiley and Sons Asia Pte Ltd www.sportstechjournal.com 2

    Time-dependent behavior of ropes

  • 8/11/2019 Time Dependent Impact Load on Rope

    7/12

    vt gtv0F

    m t

    1

    20sin20t

    Ht H t p

    10

    h i

    400p

    m H t

    p

    10

    45

    The two relations are shown in Figure 5 , where the solid line

    represents the deformation of the rope, and the dashed line

    represents the corresponding velocity of the weight. In thesame Figure, the characteristic components of the rope de-

    formation, s max, sve, sel, and svp, are also shown. These quan-

    tities and spl may be obtained from equations 17, 18, 2224,

    respectively:

    smaxt24

    2 g

    F

    m

    v0t4

    F

    400 mcos 20t41 46

    sve gF

    m

    t24t232

    v0t4t3

    F

    400 m

    cos 20t4cos 20t3

    47

    sel gF

    m

    t24t272

    v0t4t7

    F

    400 mcos 20t4cos 20t7

    48

    svp smaxsel 49

    and

    spl svpsve 50

    Taking into account values in equations 41 and 43, we find

    their true (error-free) values:

    smax1:0266 m; sel 0:4968 m;

    svp 0:5298 m sve 0:0159 m

    spl 0:5139 m spl 0:5139 m

    51

    Using equations 40 and 44, we can now calculate the corre-

    sponding force and displacement data points:

    fFi Fti; sixti; 0ptipt7; i 1; 2;. . .;Mg 52

    We are also able to express the force as function of deforma-

    tion, FFs. This relation is shown in Figure 6, where we

    also show the elastic,sel, and the viscoplastic,svp, part of rope

    deformation, and the stiffness of the rope at the beginning,

    kinit, and at the end of deformation, kend.

    The stiffness of both and their ratios, w, may be calculated

    from:

    kinit dF

    ds

    tt1

    dFdtdsdt

    tt1

    200F sin20t1

    g Fm

    t1

    200m

    sin20t1 v0

    53

    kenddF

    ds

    tt6

    dFdtdsdt

    tt6

    200F sin20t6

    g Fm

    t6

    200m

    sin20t6 v054

    and

    wkinit

    kend

    sin20t1

    sin20t6

    g Fm

    t6

    200m

    sin20t6 v0

    g Fm

    t1

    200m

    sin20t1 v055

    where t1 and t6 are given with the relations:

    t1 1

    20Arccos 1

    mg

    F

    0:03185 sec 56

    and

    t6 p

    10

    1

    20Arccos 1

    mg

    F

    0:28231 sec 57

    Figure 7. Synthetic curve of the deformation energy as a function of

    time, t. Here ti denotes relative time of individual events in

    deformation process of the rope; T4, the moment of the maximum

    deformation of the rope when the velocity of the weight is equal to 0;

    T7, the moment when the force in the rope is equal to 0 and the weight

    starts to fly in upwards; Wstor, stored energy of the process; Wdis,

    dissipated energy of the process;Wret, retrieved energy of the process.

    Figure 6. Force acting on the rope as function of its deformation. m,

    mass of the falling weight; g, gravitational acceleration; T1, the

    moment when the force in the rope is equal to the weight of the mass;

    T3, the moment of the maximum force in the rope; T4, the moment of

    the maximum deformation of the rope when the velocity of the weight

    is equal to 0; T6, the moment when force in the rope is equal to the

    weight of the load;T7, the moment when the force in the rope is equal

    to 0 and the weight starts to fly in upwards; smax, maximum

    deformation of the rope; svp, viscoplastic part of deformation of the

    rope;sel, elastic part of deformation of the rope; kinit, stiffness of the

    rope at the beginning of loading cycle; kend, stiffness of the rope at the

    end of loading cycle.

    www.sportstechjournal.com & 2008 John Wiley and Sons Asia Pte Ltd Sports Technol.2008, 1, No. 45, 20821914

    Research Article I. Emri et al.

  • 8/11/2019 Time Dependent Impact Load on Rope

    8/12

    The deformations of the rope at these two points are

    st1 0:2589 m, and st6 0:6813 m.

    Introducing equations 40 and 44 into equation 29, we canobtain the relation describing the evolution of the rope

    deformation energy, which is shown in Figure 7. Therefore:

    Wt F gF

    m

    t22

    t

    20sin20t

    F

    400g1cos20t

    FF

    800msin2 20t

    v0

    20sin20t v0t

    n o58

    In the same Figure, we show also the corresponding stored,

    Wstore Wt4, dissipated, Wdiss Wt7, and retrieved

    (elastic) energy,Wret WstoreWdiss. Their true values are

    given as:

    Wstore F gF

    m

    t242

    t4

    20sin20t4

    F g

    4001cos20t4

    FF

    800msin 2 20t4

    v0

    20sin20t4 v0t4

    h i;

    59

    Wdiss F gF

    m

    t27

    2

    t7

    20sin20t7

    F g400

    1cos20t7

    FF

    800msin 2 20t7

    v0

    20sin20t7 v0t7

    h i60

    and

    Wret F gF

    m

    t24t272

    t4

    20sin20t4

    t7

    20sin20t7

    g

    400cos20t7 cos20t4

    5

    msin2 20t4 sin

    2

    20t7 v0

    20sin20t4 sin20t7 v0t4t7

    o: 61

    The numerical values for the three energies are Wstore

    3365:35 Nm, Wdiss 2119:11 Nm, and Wret 1246:24 Nm,respectively. According to the law of conservation of energy,

    the sum of the kinetic and the potential energy of the falling

    mass,Wmt Wkt Wpt, and the deformation energy of

    the rope, Wt, should be constant at all times (neglecting the

    dissipation due to the air resistance): Wmt Wt const.

    This is demonstrated in Figure 8, where the solid line re-

    presents the evolution of the rope deformation energy, Wt,

    and the dashed line represents the sum of the kinetic and the

    potential energy of the falling mass Wmt Wkt Wpt.

    For completeness, we also show, with thinner solid and dashedlines, the kinetic, Wkt, and the potential energy, Wpt, re-

    spectively. In the same Figure, the corresponding characteristic

    times t t0, t4, and t7, which correspond to t0 0,

    t4 t4 t0, and t7 t7t0, respectively are also shown.

    Similarly, we can find jolt

    jt 20F

    m sin20t 62

    which is shown in Figure 9.

    The absolute values of the minimum and the maximum

    jolts are the same:

    jjmaxj jjminj 1000 m=s3

    63

    The calculated true values of the characteristic physical

    quantities will now be used in the parametric error analysis to

    determine the accuracy of the calculated physical quantities,

    which represent the functionality and the durability of the

    tested rope and the safety of a climber.

    3.2. Error Analysis

    The goal of the parametric error analysis is to determine

    the effect of the error of the input data on the accuracy of the

    calculated physical quantities (Table 1).

    Figure 9. Jolt as a function of time. Here tidenotes relative time of

    individual events in deformation process of the rope; T2, the moment

    of the extreme negative value of the jolt; T3, the moment when the

    force in the rope reaches its maximum; T5, the moment of the positive

    extreme value of the jolt;T7, the moment when the force in the rope is

    equal to 0 and the weight starts to fly in upwards; jmin, the extreme

    negative value of the jolt; jmax, the extreme positive value of the jolt.

    Figure 8. Evolution of the rope deformation energy in relation to the

    sum of the kinetic and potential energy of the falling mass. Heretiand

    ti denote absolute and relative time of individual events in

    deformation process of the rope; T0, beginning of the loading phase

    of the rope; T4, the moment of the maximum deformation of the rope

    when the velocity of the weight is equal to 0; T7, the moment when the

    force in the rope is equal to 0 and the weight starts to fly in upwards;

    W(t), the energy of the rope as a function of time; Wm(t), the energy of

    the mass as a function of time; Wk(t), kinetic energy of the mass as a

    function of time; Wp(t), potential energy of the mass as a function of

    time.

    Sports Technol. 2008, 1, No. 45, 208219 & 2008 John Wiley and Sons Asia Pte Ltd www.sportstechjournal.com 2

    Time-dependent behavior of ropes

  • 8/11/2019 Time Dependent Impact Load on Rope

    9/12

    It is easy to see that Fmax may always be determined di-

    rectly from the source data of measured force,

    Fmax MAXfFi; ti; i 1; 2; 3;. . .;Ng. Therefore, an error in

    the predicted maximum force, Fmax, is given directly with the

    accuracy of the force sensor, and the sampling rate of the data

    acquisition. Error estimation of the rope deformation com-

    ponents, smax, svp, spl, sel, and sve, is much more complex. It

    depends on errors in numerical integration in equation 7, er-rors in determiningt3,t4,t7, and errors in the input data ofg,

    m, h, and Ft. The same is true for Wstore, Wdiss, and Wret,

    where we need to integrate equation 29. The physical quan-

    tities, Wret, svp, and spl, are linear combinations ofWstore and

    Wdiss, and smax, sve, and sel, respectively. Thus, we need to

    analyze the influence of the error of the input data on the last

    five quantities only.

    Assuming that the accuracy of the measured time,ti, at the

    moment when we measure the force, Fi, may be considered as

    error free (which is a reasonable assumption), then the mea-

    sured force may be expressed as:

    Fti Fi Ft 64

    where Fi is the measured strength of the force, and Ft is its

    error-free time dependency. Consequently, the expressions for

    smax, sve, sel, Wstore, and Wdiss may be rearranged as:

    smax xt4 gt24

    2 t4

    ffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi2gh

    p

    F

    m

    Z t40

    Z l0

    Fudu

    dl 65

    svext4 xt3 gt24t

    23

    2 t4t3

    ffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi2gh

    p

    F

    m

    Z t4t3

    Z l0

    Fudu

    dl

    66

    sel xt4 xt7 gt24t

    27

    2

    t4 t7ffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi

    2ghp

    F

    m

    Z t7t4

    Z l0

    Fudu

    dl

    67

    Wstore Wt4 Fg

    Z t40

    lFldl Fffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi

    2ghp Z t4

    0

    Fldl

    F

    2

    m

    Z t40

    Fl

    Z l0

    Fudu

    dl

    68

    and

    WdissWt7 FgZ t7

    0

    lFldl F ffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi2ghp Z t7

    0

    Fldl

    F

    2

    m

    Z t70

    Fl

    Z l0

    Fudu

    dl

    69

    The errors of calculated smax, sve, sel, Wstore, and Wdiss may

    now be estimated from the sum of their partial derivatives with

    respect to g, m, h, F, t3, t4, and t7. Therefore:

    Dsmax @x

    @g

    tt4

    Dg

    @x@m

    tt4

    Dm

    (

    @x

    @h

    tt4

    Dh

    :

    @x

    @F

    tt4

    DF

    @x

    @t

    tt4

    Dt

    ) 70

    Dsve

    @x@g

    tt4

    @x@g

    tt3

    Dg

    @x@m tt4 @x@m tt3

    h iDm

    @x@h

    tt4

    @x@h

    tt3

    h iDh

    @x@F tt4 @x@F tt3

    h iDF @x@t

    tt4

    @x@t tt3 h iDt

    8>>>>>>>>>>>>>:

    9>>>>>>>=>>>>>>>;

    71

    Dsel

    @x@g

    tt7

    @x@g

    tt4

    Dg

    @x@m tt7 @x@m tt4

    h iDm

    @x@h

    tt7

    @x@h

    tt4

    h iDh

    @x@F tt7 @x@F tt4

    h iDF @x@t

    tt7

    @x@t tt4 h iDt

    8>>>>>>>>>>>>>:

    9>>>>>>>=>>>>>>>;

    72

    DWstore

    @W@g

    tt4

    Dg

    @W@m tt4Dm

    @W@h

    tt4

    Dh

    @W@F

    tt4

    DF

    @W@t

    tt4

    Dt

    8>>>>>:

    9>>>=>>>;

    73and

    DWdiss

    @W@g

    tt7

    Dg

    @W@m tt7Dm

    @W@h

    tt7Dh

    @W@F tt7DF @W@t tt7Dt

    8>>>>>:

    9>>>=>>>;

    74

    where DFis defined as the maximal error in the measured force

    throughout the experiment, and Dt is the maximal error in

    determining t3, t4, and t7. Therefore:

    DF MAXfjDFij i 1; 2;. . .;Ng 75

    and

    Dt MAXfjDt3j; jDt4j; jDt7jg 76

    0

    10

    20

    30

    40

    50

    60

    70

    80

    90

    100

    0 0.5 1.0 1.5 2.0

    n(

    %)

    W

    W

    s

    s

    s

    (%)

    Figure 10. Relative error, n, of smax, sve, sel, Wstore, and Wdiss as a

    function of the relative error, k, ofg, m, h, Fand tc. The symbols used

    in the Figure denote the following physical quantities: smax, maximum

    deformation of the rope; Sve, viscoelastic part of deformation of the

    rope; sel, elastic part of deformation of the rope; Wdiss, dissipated

    energy of the process; Wstore, stored energy of the process.

    www.sportstechjournal.com & 2008 John Wiley and Sons Asia Pte Ltd Sports Technol.2008, 1, No. 45, 20821916

    Research Article I. Emri et al.

  • 8/11/2019 Time Dependent Impact Load on Rope

    10/12

    Equations 7074 may be expressed in a matrix form as:

    Dsmax

    Dsve

    Dsel

    DWstore

    DWdiss

    2666666664

    3777777775

    a11 a12 a13 a14 a15

    a21 a22 a23 a24 a25

    a31 a32 a33 a34 a35

    a41 a42 a43 a44 a45

    a51 a52 a53 a54 a55

    2666666664

    3777777775

    jDgj

    jDmj

    jDhj

    jDFj

    jDtj

    2666666664

    3777777775

    D

    jDgj

    jDmj

    jDhj

    jDFj

    jDtj

    2666666664

    3777777775

    77

    Individual components, aij, of the matrix D are given in

    Appendix I.

    We still need to comment the errors in estimating the

    stiffness at the beginning, kinit, and at the end, kend, of the

    impact loading cycle, and the error in the calculation of the jolt(derivative of the acceleration/deacceleration). These require

    numerical derivation of the measured force for rope de-

    formation and time, respectively. Numerical derivations may

    often be troublesome; however, it is a standard, well-known

    numerical problem, which has been properly addressed in

    commercial mathematical softwares, such as Mathematica,

    and does not need any additional comment.

    3.2.1 Sensitivity of the error of calculated data to the error of

    input data

    Let us first assume that the relative error of all input

    physical quantities, g, m, h, F, and tc 2 ft3; t4; t7g, is equal:

    Dg

    g

    Dm

    m

    Dh

    h

    DF

    F

    Dti

    ti; i 3; 4; 7

    78

    Of course, this assumption is not realistic. However, it will help

    us to understand which of the calculated physical quantities,

    Wstore and Wdiss,smax,sve, andsel is most sensitive to the error

    of input data. The relative error of the calculated data is de-

    fined as:

    Z DC

    Ctrue 100% 79

    where DCrepresents Dsmax, Dsve, Dsel, DWstore, and DWdiss, and

    Ctrue is their corresponding error-free values, respectively.

    Equivalently, we may define the relative error of the input data

    g, m, h, F, and tc as:

    k D

    true

    100% 80

    where Drepresents Dg, Dm, Dh, DF, and Dt, whereas true is

    the error-free values of g, m, h, F, and tc. Here, tc again

    represents t3, t4, and t7. Figure 10 shows the results

    of these error analyses, shown as Z Zk for each of the

    five sought-after physical quantities. From the Figure, it

    can be seen that the accuracy of prediction of the viscoelastic

    component of rope deformation, sve, is most sensitive to the

    errors of input data, followed by sel, Wdiss, Wstore, and smax.

    The most important observation is that the errors of the cal-

    culated data are up to 100 times larger than the error of input

    data. Thus, in order to utilize the derived theory for analyzingthe durability of ropes and the safety of climbers, we need to

    carry out experiments very accurately.

    3.2.2 Example for realistic measuring setup

    Let us now turn to the analysis of a realistic situation,

    which corresponds to the experimental setup used in our

    laboratory. The errors of the input data in our experiments

    are typically: Dg 0:00001 m=s2, Dm 0:02 kg,

    Dh 0:01 m, DF 5N, and Dt 0:0001 s. According

    to equation 77, this leads to the following absolute errors of

    calculated data: Dsmax 0:002959 m, Dsve 0:001568 m,Dsel 0:00639153 m, DWstore 11:0115 Nm, andDWdiss 27:5671 Nm. The corresponding relative errors are

    then: dsmax 0:29%, dsve 9:88%, dsel 1:29%, dWstore

    0:33%, and dWdiss 1:3%, respectively.

    As predicted previously, the largest error appears

    in the prediction of the viscoelastic component of rope

    deformation, sve. However, the prediction is still within the

    acceptable limit. Predictions of all other physical quantities

    are very good, which confirms that the proposed experi-

    mentalanalytical methodology may be used for the analyses

    of the functionality and durability of ropes and safety of

    climbers.

    4. CONCLUSIONS

    We have presented the methodology based on a simple

    non-standard falling-weight experiment, which allows for

    the examination of the functionality and durability of ropes

    beyond the experimental findings of the UIAA. The experi-

    mentalanalyticalnumerical treatment allows for the

    examination of the time-dependent viscoelastoplastic

    behavior of ropes exposed to arbitrary falling-weight loading

    conditions. A developed methodology can be successfully

    applied for calculating the following important physicalparameters: the impact force and jolt (the derivative of the

    acceleration/deacceleration acting on the climber); the viscoe-

    lastoplastic deformation of the rope; stored, retrieved, and

    dissipated energy during the loading and unloading of the

    rope; and modification of the stiffness of the rope within each

    loading cycle.

    A developed analytical treatment was subsequently ex-

    amined by using the synthetic experimental data. By means

    of the parametric error analysis, we analyzed the required

    precision of all measured physical quantities used in the cal-

    culation of physical quantities that determine the durability of

    ropes and safety of climbers.

    Sports Technol. 2008, 1, No. 45, 208219 & 2008 John Wiley and Sons Asia Pte Ltd www.sportstechjournal.com 2

    Time-dependent behavior of ropes

  • 8/11/2019 Time Dependent Impact Load on Rope

    11/12

    The parametric error analysis showed that that the errors of

    calculated data are up to 100 times larger than the errors of input

    data. Thus, in order to utilize the proposed methodology, one

    needs to carry out experiments very accurately. When doing so, the

    accuracy of prediction of all sought-after physical quantities are

    within the acceptable limits, which confirms that the proposed

    experimentalanalytical methodology may be used for the analyses

    of the functionality and durability of ropes and safety of climbers.

    Acknowledgements

    We would like to acknowledge the financial support provided by

    the Slovenian Research Agency (http://www.arrs.gov.si/en/

    dobrodoslica.asp). The contribution of our coworker Pavel

    Oblak, University of Ljubljana, Slovenia in standardizing the

    experimental procedures is also greatly appreciated.

    5. APPENDIX I

    5.1 Components of the Matrix D

    a11 @x

    @g

    tt4

    t

    24

    2 t4

    ffiffiffiffiffih

    2g

    s

    a12 @x

    @m

    tt4

    Fm2

    Z t40

    Z t0

    Fldl

    dt

    a13 @x

    @h tt4

    t4 ffiffiffiffiffig

    2hr a14

    @x

    @F

    tt4

    1m

    Z t40

    Z t0

    Fldl

    dt

    a15 @x

    @t

    tt4

    gt4

    ffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi2gh

    p

    F

    m

    Z t40

    Fldl

    a21 @x

    @g

    tt4

    @x

    @g

    tt3

    t24t

    23

    2 t4t3

    ffiffiffiffiffih

    2g

    s

    a22 @x

    @m

    tt4

    @x

    @m

    tt3

    Fm2

    Z t4

    t3

    Z l

    0

    Fudu

    dl

    a23 @x

    @h

    tt4

    @x

    @h

    tt3

    t4t3

    ffiffiffiffiffig

    2h

    r

    a24 @x

    @F

    tt4

    @x@F

    tt3

    1

    m

    Z t40

    Z l0

    Fudu

    dl

    1

    m

    Z t30

    Z l0

    Fudu

    dl

    a25 @x

    @t

    tt4

    @x@t

    tt3

    gt3ffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi

    2ghp

    F

    m

    Z t30

    Fldl

    gt4ffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi

    2ghp

    F

    m

    Z t40

    Fldl

    a31 @x

    @g

    tt7

    @x

    @g

    tt4

    t

    27t

    24

    2 t7t4

    ffiffiffiffiffih

    2g

    s

    a32 @x

    @m

    tt7

    @x

    @m

    tt4

    Fm2

    Z t7t4

    Z l0

    Fudu

    dl

    a33 @x

    @h

    tt7

    @x

    @h

    tt4

    t7t4

    ffiffiffiffiffig

    2h

    r

    a34 @x

    @F

    tt7

    @x@F

    tt4

    1

    m

    Z t70

    Z l0

    Fudu

    dl

    1

    m

    Z t40

    Z l0

    Fudu

    dl

    a35 @x

    @t

    tt7

    @x

    @t

    tt4

    gt

    7ffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi2ghp

    F

    mZ t7

    0

    F

    l

    dl

    gt4ffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi

    2ghp

    F

    m

    Z t40

    Fldl

    a41 @W

    @g

    tt4

    F

    Z t40

    lFldl F

    ffiffiffiffiffih

    2g

    s Z t40

    Fldl

    a42 @W

    @m

    tt4

    F

    2

    m2

    Z t40

    Fl

    Z l0

    Fudu

    dl

    a43 @W

    @h

    tt4

    F

    ffiffiffiffiffig

    2h

    r Z t40

    Fldl

    a44 @W

    @F

    tt4

    g

    Z t40

    lFldl

    2F

    m

    Z t40

    Fl

    Z l0

    Fudu

    dl

    ffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi

    2ghp Z t4

    0

    Fldl

    www.sportstechjournal.com & 2008 John Wiley and Sons Asia Pte Ltd Sports Technol.2008, 1, No. 45, 20821918

    Research Article I. Emri et al.

  • 8/11/2019 Time Dependent Impact Load on Rope

    12/12

    a45 @W

    @t

    tt4

    Fgt4Ft4 F ffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi2ghp Ft4

    F2

    mFt4

    Z t40

    Ftdt

    a51 @W@g

    tt7

    FZ t7

    0

    lFldl Fffiffiffiffiffi

    h2g

    s Z t70

    Fldl

    a52 @W

    @m

    tt7

    F

    2

    m2

    Z t70

    Fl

    Z l0

    Fudu

    dl

    a53 @W

    @h

    tt7

    F

    ffiffiffiffiffig

    2h

    r Z t70

    Fldl

    a54 @W

    @F

    tt7

    g

    Z t7

    0

    lFldl2F

    m

    Z t7

    0

    Fl

    Z l

    0

    Fudu

    dl

    ffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi

    2ghp Z t7

    0

    Fldl

    a55 @W

    @t

    tt7

    Fgt7Ft7 F ffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi2ghp Ft7

    F2

    mFt7

    Z t70

    Ftdt

    REFERENCES

    1. Jenkins M, ed. Materials in sports equipment. Woodhead Publishing Limited:Cambridge, 2003. ISBN 1 85573 599 7.

    2. EN 892:2004 (E). Mountaineering equipment. Dynamic mountaineeringropes. Safety requirements and test methods.The European Committee forStandardization, November 2004.

    3. http://www.theuiaa.org/upload_area/cert_files/UIAA101_DynamicRopes.pdf.[15 March 2008]

    4. Oblak P. Development of the methodology for dynamic characterization ofropes (Dissertation). University of Ljubljana: Ljubljana, 2007.

    5. Emri I, Udovc M, Zupancic B, Nikonov AV et al. Examination of the time-dependent behaviour of climbing ropes. In: Fuss FK, Subic A, Ujihashi S, eds.The Impact of Technology on Sport II. Taylor & Francis: London, 2008; 695700.

    Received 1 May 2008

    Accepted 9 June 2008

    Published online 6 January 2009

    Sports Technol 2008 1 No 4 5 208 219 & 2008 John Wiley and Sons Asia Pte Ltd www sportstechjournal com 2

    Time-dependent behavior of ropes