Thread Catcher pattern

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Thread Catcher Fabric Requirements . 4 - 2&1/2 x 8&112 rectangles in primary fabric ~ 4 - 2&1/2 x 8&1/2 rectangles in coordinating fabric [-::-.\ 12" on~-inch wide double-fold binding (optional) **Note: you can just use one fabric color for the entire project, including the binding. Directions I) Lay a strip of primary fabric on sewing surface like you are getting ready to sew it. Then lay a rectangle of coordinating fabric on top, right sides together, with the length of this rectangle directed to the left (see drawing). It will look like an L upside down and to the left. Sew pieces together but stop 'i4 " away from the end of the coordinating piece and backstitch. You will not have intersecting seams later so backstitching is crucial. Press open. Repeat process with the other three "sets" of rectangles ~\ ~f'bl'rTc P\e.c.e. 0.-+ It4 3) Now sew the spokes together. For instance, take a primary spoke and twist it so that it is right sides together with the coordinating spoke next to it. The coordinating spoke will end up being much shorter than the primary spoke and it will be on the bottom as you sew the seam. Don't worry that the comer where the spokes meet isn't perfect, just line the fabrics up as best you can. Be sure and backstitch at the beginning because there aren't really any intersecting seams here. What you are making is going to look like a box with seams on the outside. Repeat process with other set of spokes and you'll have two boxes. . 2) Lay two sets of rectangles next to each other so that one rectangle faces in each direction, like four spokes. Flip one set on top of the other, you'll notice that your seams automatically lock. Backstitch and sew 'i4" from the top and finish with a backstitch 'i4" from the end. Press open. Repeat process with the other two sets of rectangles. 4) Tum one box inside out so that the seams are on the inside, this will be the outer shell of your thread catcher. The other box will be the lining of your thread catcher. You may find it helpful to finger press the seams of the spokes just to help them lay a little flatter. Place the lining box inside the outer box, lining up the comers of both boxes with each other as best you can. Trim the upper edges of the boxes even with each other so that you can apply binding or fold and topstitch them. 5) You have two choices for finishing the thread catcher. You can fold the top edges in towards each other and topstitch together or you can apply the double-fold binding. I like to pin my binding all the way around and overlap at the starting point. Make sure that you are catching both the inside and outside edge of the binding as you sew around. I usually do a quick satin stitch to cover up the raw edge of my binding where it overlaps the beginning.

Transcript of Thread Catcher pattern

Page 1: Thread Catcher pattern

Thread Catcher

Fabric Requirements .4 - 2&1/2 x 8&112 rectangles in primary fabric ~4 - 2&1/2 x 8&1/2 rectangles in coordinating fabric [-::-.\12" on~-inch wide double-fold binding (optional)**Note: you can just use one fabric color for the entire project, including thebinding.

DirectionsI) Lay a strip of primary fabric on sewing surface like you are getting readyto sew it. Then lay a rectangle of coordinating fabric on top, right sidestogether, with the length of this rectangle directed to the left (see drawing). Itwill look like an L upside down and to the left. Sew pieces together but stop'i4 " away from the end of the coordinating piece and backstitch. You will nothave intersecting seams later so backstitching is crucial. Press open. Repeatprocess with the other three "sets" of rectangles ~\~f'bl'rTc P\e.c.e. 0.-+ It4

3) Now sew the spokes together. For instance, take a primary spoke andtwist it so that it is right sides together with the coordinating spoke next to it.The coordinating spoke will end up being much shorter than the primaryspoke and it will be on the bottom as you sew the seam. Don't worry that thecomer where the spokes meet isn't perfect, just line the fabrics up as best youcan. Be sure and backstitch at the beginning because there aren't really anyintersecting seams here. What you are making is going to look like a box withseams on the outside. Repeat process with other set of spokes and you'll havetwo boxes. .

2) Lay two sets of rectangles next to each other so that one rectangle faces ineach direction, like four spokes. Flip one set on top of the other, you'll noticethat your seams automatically lock. Backstitch and sew 'i4" from the top andfinish with a backstitch 'i4" from the end. Press open. Repeat process with theother two sets of rectangles.

4) Tum one box inside out so that the seams are on the inside, this will be theouter shell of your thread catcher. The other box will be the lining of yourthread catcher. You may find it helpful to finger press the seams of the spokesjust to help them lay a little flatter. Place the lining box inside the outer box,lining up the comers of both boxes with each other as best you can. Trim theupper edges of the boxes even with each other so that you can apply bindingor fold and topstitch them.

5) You have two choices for finishing the thread catcher. You can fold thetop edges in towards each other and topstitch together or you can apply thedouble-fold binding. I like to pin my binding all the way around and overlapat the starting point. Make sure that you are catching both the inside andoutside edge of the binding as you sew around. I usually do a quick satinstitch to cover up the raw edge of my binding where it overlaps the beginning.