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Think of Victoria’s Bellarine Peninsula as the attractive, but overshadowed, Charlie’s Angel Kate Jackson. It stands alongside the sexy Mornington Peninsula in the Jaclyn Smith mould, whereas the curves of the Great Ocean Road could be, say, Farrah Fawcett.

To stand out amid knockout co-stars requires extra depth, so the Bellarine, like Kate, does this by being extra comforting, even wholesome. It harks back to those

classic coastal holidays, preserving a relaxed, rural-meets-seafaring culture.

For many people, the Bellarine conjures the Queenscliff Music Festival, SeaChange and family-friendly beaches, but lesser-known charms are upping the ante. Its wine industry is evolving, making the most of a maritime climate and adding pinot gris to its existing champion varietals, chardonnay and shiraz. Factor in a dining scene bolstered by a new

destination restaurant, Drysdale’s Loam, and the area appears to be returning to the days when Mietta’s Queenscliff Hotel drew foodies from far and wide.

The Bellarine also double-dips with Port Phillip Bay’s placid waters and the Surf Coast’s coveted waves, sometimes minutes apart, and the commute from Melbourne is even easier, thanks to Geelong’s expanding ring road. Now that’s what we call angelic.

Though sometimes overlooked for its flashier neighbours on the Victorian coast, the Bellarine Peninsula has plenty to offer, from produce-driven fine diners to pub nosh and boutique wineries.

WORDS michael shafran PHOTOGRAPHY john dennis

where to eatloamIf you visit just one restaurant in the Bellarine, make it Loam, which in an instant has rocketed into the elite ranks of regional Victorian dining. Here, chef Aaron Turner combines passions for high-flying cuisine, foraging for edible flowers and wild greens, and sourcing ingredients from traditional-method artisan producers. Aaron, a one-time head chef at Athelstane House, was slated to join uber chef Charlie Trotter in Chicago, and had been biding his time at famed restaurants Noma in Denmark and Spain’s El Celler de Can Roca. Unfortunately, his

visa never arrived, but Chicago’s loss was Bellarine’s gain when he returned home to launch Loam this past winter. The menu successfully tightropes creativity and preserving the purity of its ingredients, from slow-cooked egg yolk with pumpkin puree, spring flowers and smoked eel; to Wycheproof squab between a rhubarb puree and a milk ‘skin’, then topped with ‘beach herbs’ – saltbush and others that Aaron scavenges daily from wild stretches of coastline. The calming space overlooks olive trees and is decorated with a centrepiece timber-and-steel table hand-crafted by Aaron’s mother. 650 Andersons Rd, Drysdale, (03) 5251 1101.

athelstane houseOne-hatted Athlestane has taken over the area’s fine-dining mantle since the Queenscliff Hotel dropped the Mietta’s name. Former Press Club apprentice Tyler Vakidis’ modern cuisine tilts to Asia and Europe. A salt-and-vinegar chocolate, gleaned from George Calombaris, is used to accent an ocean trout tartare, while Eastern flavours stand out in dishes such as five-spiced battered quail and yellowtail kingfish with glass noodles, miso and enoki mushrooms. For dessert, try the chocolate mousse, lightly oak-smoked and topped with burnt marshmallows. 4 Hobson St, Queenscliff, (03) 5258 1024.

Clockwise from far left: Portarlington; Aaron and Astrid Turner at Loam; Loam’s dining room; Portarlington Pier is popular for fishing; Bellarine Estate’s sugar-cured ocean trout with fresh herb salad; Bean Pod Cafe; Amy Ames at Bean Pod; Loam prides itself on fresh ingredients from local artisan producers; Athelstane House.

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Bean Pod cafeThe vibe is funked-up surf shack, but despite appearances, Bean Pod isn’t run by a local surfie. Instead, it’s Texas-bred Amy Ames, who took over a year ago. Here, you can chill out under tables shaded by grass-skirt umbrellas in front and rear courtyards, enjoy Genovese coffee atop a giant wooden spool-turned-table, or crash among the vintage furniture in the living-room-like interior. The menu is popular for its eggs benedict, but it’s hard to bypass Amy’s Lone Star influence: breakfast burritos smothered in green chilli, and real-deal fish tacos with white lime sauce. Housemade baked beans are also popular, using chilli and herbs from the garden. There’s talk of doing full-blown Tex Mex dinners and a pending liquor license that has margaritas written all over it. 37 Hitchcock Ave, Barwon Heads, (03) 5254 2288.

oakdene vineyards restaurantAn iron gate spells “Grubb Room” as it opens to a dining space clad in blood-orange walls, dark brown leather chairs, tables on industrial wheels, and quirky art and conversation pieces, such as boudoir lamps with leggy bases that invoke a Moulin Rouge feel. That it all works is due to the brilliance of ex-fashion designer Liz Hooley, who owns Oakdene with husband Bernard. Welsh chef Marty Chichester matches the vibe with bold flavours, from house-smoked duck breast – theatrically hidden beneath vapours in an upside-down tumbler – to compressed watermelon

with nut-encrusted tuna or creamy cauliflower with tempura oysters. Bring friends to share the dessert tasting plate, a decadent chequerboard of nine desserts comprising of anything from white chocolate bavarois to Campari and rhubarb sorbet or cherry ripe ice cream. 255 Grubb Rd, Wallington, (03) 5255 1255.

Bellarine estate restaurantChange is afoot at the site formerly known as Julian’s, with Brett MacKay replacing Simon Fawcett as head chef, and the adoption of the adjoining winery’s moniker (see ‘Where to Drink’). Geelong-raised Brett, formerly of The Ol’ Duke, maintains the direction with a focus on sustainability and regional ingredients. He’s particularly partial to seafood, so try sugar-cured ocean trout with asparagus and mixed herb salad, or local flathead poached in a smoky laksa broth. Abalone is another special, with the coveted fresh stuff often on offer, sliced and tender. The wine list is generous, keeping most of its bottles between $25 and $45. It’s all enjoyed in a bright room overlooking chardonnay, pinot and shiraz vines, with comfy lime-cushioned wood chairs, polished pebbled floors and the sweeping gull-wings of a tin roof. 2270 Portarlington Rd, Bellarine, (03) 5259 3355.

aPostle QueenscliffYes, there are those other apostles further down the coast, but this one feeds you Mediterranean-focused food and local wines. Katherine Bourke (ex-Athelstane

House and Merrijig Inn in Port Fairy) bought the freehold of this 1888 church two-and-a-half years ago, transforming what had been a bric-a-brac shop into a buzzy, modern-meets-Methodist space dominated by impressive iron chandeliers, gothic-style stained glass and a grand barrel-vaulted Kauri pine ceiling. Relaxed breakfasts and lunches are served by day while more formal dinners appear at night, with signatures including bouillabaisse, housemade gnocchi, and saag paneer (spiced ricotta and pea curry) with date chutney, raita and roti. Sun-worshippers can also sneak out of church and enjoy their gluttony guilt-free in a side courtyard. 79 Hesse St, Queenscliff, (03) 5258 3097. Queenscliff hotelRealising their mod Oz menu wasn’t so modern anymore, the Queenscliff crew decided to change direction and go back – way back – to basics. Working with the Queenscliff Historical Museum, they dug up original hotel menus dating back to the early 1900s, and it’s these that chef Glenn Waddell uses to form his “Old-fashioned Fare” menu. Expect stuffed roast sirloin with horseradish sauce and mini Yorkshire pudding; pan-fried snapper with a mussel and scallop chowder; and corned beef with mash, baby carrots and parsley bechamel sauce. It’s all the more authentic served in the hotel’s immaculately preserved dining room, teeming with Victorian-era tables, artwork and objects. 16 Gellibrand St, Queenscliff, (03) 5258 1066.

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Left to right: peanut-encrusted tuna at Oakdene; Bellarine Estate; Bellarine Estate Restaurant.

Clockwise from top right: Queenscliff at sunset; owners David and Lyndsay Sharp at Leura Park

Estate; Lonsdale’s Kelp; Banks Road’s cellar door; the cellar door at McGlashan’s; Barwon Heads,

the setting for popular ABC TV series SeaChange.

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By the time you read this, the new Queenscliff Harbour Marine Precinct (Larkin Pde, Queenscliff) should have opened its doors, offering a 150-seat fine diner, observation tower and 11 shops, including a cafe, wine bar and providore.

kelPAsk locals about their favourite cafe, and Kelp is likely to be cited more than any other. By day, its reputation is for comforting breakfasts and casual lunches, and by night for the more formal menu, with shellfish linguine and locally sourced mussels. It’s run by David Osborne, a former surfer who used to produce wetsuits for Rip Curl. The perch across from the beach a coincidence? We think not. 67 Point Lonsdale Rd, Point Lonsdale, (03) 5258 4797.

Grow naturallyForget the holistic name and come here for the morning decadence of Karen Hermann’s impressive muffins. Get in early; she only cooks a batch of three dozen each day and only one flavour at a time, perhaps rhubarb and apple; raspberry and white chocolate; or cinnamon, pear and date. They’re made with yoghurt, freshly squeezed fruit juice, wholemeal flour and no milk – who knew? 59 Point Lonsdale Rd, Point Lonsdale, (03) 5258 2508.

And for passionate foodies, it’s worth veering slightly off the Peninsula to Pettavel Winery & Restaurant (65 Pettavel Rd, Waurn Ponds, (03) 5266 1120), where the wines often dictate the direction of one-

hatted chef Matt Dempsey’s European-style dishes, with possibilities including smoked trout with lemon and turnips or braised ox cheek with spring vegetables.

where to drinkleura Park estateSince owners David and Lyndsay Sharp took over more than two years ago, Leura Park has undergone a vibrant transformation: there are seven new wines, a new offsite winemaker, a line of olive oils, and an on-site winery due to open this month. That said, what’s garnered the most attention is ‘The Pod’, a modern, bulbous tent situated on the front lawn that’s frequented by bands on weekends. It’s the perfect spot to enjoy the stellar Block 1 Chardonnay or the lightly wooded Voix de la Terre Sauvignon Blanc. 1400 Portarlington Rd, Curlewis, (03) 5253 3180.

mcGlashan’sRussell McGlashan is a car enthusiast, so you’ll find his Jaguar E-Type V12 outside the cellar door along with a few other classic cars loaned by fellow auto-lovers. Inside there’s car memorabilia, oddly joined by an old diving outfit and an abalone display – explained by the fact that Russell is an abalone diver. So while you’re tasting the award-winning pinot noir or cellar-door-only shiraz, you can try some of his wild abalone catch, when available, or farmed stock from nearby St Leonards. 225 Swan Bay Rd, Wallington, (03) 5250 5760.

Bellarine estateThe wines here are a family affair: the OMK Viognier is named after owner Peter Kenny’s mum, Olga; Phil’s Fetish Pinot Noir after his father; and James Paddock Chardonnay and Julian’s Merlot after his sons. So the name of his award-winning Two Wives Shiraz might raise an eyebrow. It turns out a former female vineyard manager would be regularly mistaken for Peter’s wife. Visitors come here as much for the beer as the wine, sampling the several bottles under the Bellarine Brewing Co. label, including a honey-fermented Queenscliff Ale and a Mussel Stout, based on a British oyster stout, which uses real mussels but is thankfully dominated by coffee notes. 2270 Portarlington Rd, Bellarine, (03) 5259 3310.

Banks roadThe drive past a well-curated sculpture garden sets a creative tone as visitors ascend the hill to Banks Road’s glass house of a cellar door. The view frames the diverse works, including steel trees constructed by owner Will Derham’s father, Jim, better known for producing the steel cobweb encasing Melbourne’s Federation Square atrium. The hand-harvested wines have an equally artisan bent, cropped for low yields on five hectares to produce just 2000 cases each year. Highlights include the pinot gris, reserve pinot noir, Geelong-sourced shiraz and a delicate Chablis-style chardonnay. 600 Banks Rd, Marcus Hill, 0418 171 661.

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Clockwise from opposite, far left: Lighthouse Olive Grove; ocean views at every turn; Vue Grand; The Portarlington Bakehouse; The Ol’ Duke; SeaBounty’s Lance Wiffen; Barwon Heads Caravan Park; Queenscliff Hotel.

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scotchmans hill This regional pioneer’s cellar door at historic Spray Farm is a must-visit. Scenic views aren’t in short supply on the peninsula, but Scotchmans Hill boasts some of the best. And after more than 20 years in the business, the wines are top-notch, too: chardonnay and pinot noir are specialties, but don’t ignore the often-excellent shiraz. Serious wine-lovers can book a tutored vineyard tour, and they also make wine for some of the region’s smaller wineries that lack their own facilities. Spray Farm, 2275 Geelong-Portarlington Rd, Bellarine, (03) 5251 3176.

Other worthwhile Bellarine cellar doors include Oakdene (see ‘Where to Eat’), with its quality chardonnay and garden dotted with quirky design pieces; Barrgowan (30 Pax Pde, Curlewis, (03) 5250 3861, by appt), a micro-vineyard producing only 200 cases of hand-picked, basket-press shiraz. Also Grassy Point (145 Coatsworth Rd, Portarlington, 0409 429 608, by appt); Hat Rock Vineyard (2330 Portarlington Rd, Bellarine, (03) 5259 1386); and pinot-centric Curlewis (55 Navarre Rd, Curlewis, (03) 5250 4567, by appt).

where to shophesse streetThe main drag in Queenscliff, Hesse Street, is the Bellarine’s best stretch for retail therapy. Start off at e.k design (78 Hesse St, (03) 5258 4888), where Eve Kelly channels a fine arts degree into procuring handmade jewellery, homewares and quirky trinkets. Australian-designed bags and homewares are the calling card of Citrine (17 Hesse St, (03) 5258 5378). In what used to be an old drapery store you’ll find a modern array of paintings and sculpture at Salt.Contemporary.Art (33-35 Hesse St, (03) 5258 3988), framed by the exposed wood ceiling and treated concrete floor. Around the corner is Queenscliff Farm Foods (1 Symonds St, (03) 5258 4744), where Julian Melican – the original chef at Julian’s (now Bellarine Estate Restaurant) – stocks gourmet foodstuffs, many from small Victorian producers. Come here for local Pik Nik jams, Bannockburn walnuts and Otway free-range pork.

liGhthouse olive GroveThere’s plenty of olive oil grown in the area, but few producers can boast 10 varietals from 11,000 trees. Lighthouse’s shop, located under Loam restaurant, allows visitors to choose from single-varietal olive oils, such as leccino, koroneiki, kalamata and frantoio, and citrus-infused versions, including a ruby grapefruit one that goes well with feta. Also on offer are wines from small local producers that don’t have their own cellar door. 650 Andersons Rd, Drysdale, (03) 5253 2133.

the Beach house lolly shoPOcean Grove might be lacking in reputable restaurants, but it’s worth a stop for more basic needs, such as distracting the kids with this selection of 200-plus treats, including Sherbies, Redskins, Wizz Fizz, Fantales and Fruit Tingles. Shop 3, 11 Park Ln, Ocean Grove, (03) 5255 5461.

If the idea of watching the grommets on a sugar high doesn’t appeal, maybe head next door for Rolling Pin Pies & Cakes (12 Park Ln, Ocean Grove, (03) 5256 1517). Its award-winning pies include a beef steak version that took gold at the Great Aussie Pie Comp in 2008, plus last year’s silver-medal-winning curry scallop pie.

If you’re a bit further north, visit The Portarlington Bakehouse (48 Newcombe St, Portarlington, (03) 5259 2274) for its pastries and woodfired breads.

where to stayathelstane houseIt may be Queenscliff’s oldest guesthouse, but Athelstane’s clean, bright-and-cheery style and restrained use of antique Asian furniture is a world away from the area’s many vintage hotels and B&Bs. Built in 1860, the property’s original 20 rooms have been combined into nine more spacious abodes, where sunlight and sea breezes diffuse through sheer curtains. Some have private balconies and eight feature spas. From $170 per double including a gourmet breakfast. 4 Hobson Street, Queenscliff, (03) 5258 1024, athelstane.com.au.

To get your stay off to a relaxing start, try the neighbouring Queenscliff Day Spa (2 Hobson St, Queenscliff, (03) 5258 4233).

the ol’ dukeThis 1855 building is one beauty of a bargain. Portarlington’s oldest hotel has been renovated into six comfy rooms – three with bay views – plus two split-level apartments out the back. It’s an easy stroll to Portarlington Pier and the local beaches, while the hotel’s eponymous restaurant is well-regarded for its mod Oz fare – think green-tea salted calamari, or green curry with coconut chicken. From $125 per double. 40 Newcombe St, Portarlington, (03) 5259 1250, theolduke.com.au.

vue GrandMost of the 32 rooms at this hotel stick to a heritage brief, so it can be a surprise to discover three newer suites with modern fit-outs. The grandest is the glass-encased Turret Suite, which sports spectacular views of Queenscliff and Port Phillip Bay. All three have king beds, leather seating and double showers. From $250 per double with breakfast. 46 Hesse St, Queenscliff, (03) 5258 1544, vuegrand.com.au.

Barwon heads caravan ParkForget the van and go one better with the handful of small villas here, which have a glorious beachfront possie steps from the mouth of the Barwon River. “Laura’s Beach House”, featured in TV’s SeaChange, has two bedrooms and a deck. From $180 per double. Ewing Blyth Dr, Barwon Heads, (03) 5254 1115, barwoncoast.com.au.

For posterity’s sake, Diver Dan’s old pad is just around the corner – although these days it’s restaurant and bar At The Heads (Jetty Rd, Barwon Heads, (03) 5254 1277).

oakdene vineyardsLike the restaurant (see ‘Where to Eat’), Liz Hooley’s design aesthetic is imprinted on Oakdene’s three boutique rooms. The most impressive is the Marilyn Monroe, a ruby-and-slate coloured space with a modern sleigh bed, all-glass bathroom and folding screen with a motif of the famed actress. The Water Room, is named for the corrugated iron tank that’s been converted into an ensuite. From $260 per double with breakfast. 255 Grubb Rd, Wallington, (03) 5255 1255, oakdene.com.au.

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things to dosea all dolPhin swimsThere are plenty of places to swim with seals and dolphins in Australia, but fewer places where you have the chance of doing both. This three-and-a-half-hour trip takes snorkellers to a swim in Port Phillip Bay with a small group of fur seals, then sets off for a two-hour bay cruise where there’s a high probability of dolphin-encounters. It’s $125 to snorkel, or $70 to merely watch, though those who opt for the latter usually regret it. Queenscliff Boat Harbour, Queenscliff, (03) 5258 3889.

PortarlinGton PierIf you fancy a spot of recreational fishing, stroll down to Portarlington Pier. In years past, Port Phillip Bay supplied 60 per cent of Australia’s mussels, with the bulk coming through the pier. Recently, though,

an unsolved blight linked to climate change has reduced blue mussel stocks, so suppliers are turning to farming. One such outfit is the organically certified SeaBounty (160 Old St Leonards Rd, St Leonards, (03) 5257 1343). Operator Lance Wiffen hopes to receive approval soon to take visitors onboard to see the rearing and harvesting process, before cooking up some of the day’s catch. For now, SeaBounty can be called in advance to share some of its, well, bounty. Alternatively, buy mussels at the pier from arriving boats on weekend mornings, or try nearby Aussie Blue Mussels (42 Geelong-Portarlington Rd, Portarlington, (03) 5259 3088). d.Thanks to Tourism Victoria for assistance with this story. For info, visit: visitvictoria.com.au. 774 ABC Melbourne broadcasts to the Bellarine area, and you’ll find their food-related features and podcasts at abc.net.au/melbourne

map keyApostle Queenscliff ..5At The Heads ..........10Athelstane House ....5Aussie Blue

Mussels................4Banks Road ..............7Barrgowan ...............1Barwon Heads

Caravan Park .....10Bean Pod Cafe ........10Bellarine Estate .......3Curlewis ...................1Grassy Point .............4Grow Naturally .........6Hat Rock Vineyard ....3Hesse St Shopping ...5Kelp ..........................6Leura Park Estate ....1Lighthouse

Olive Grove ...........2Loam ........................2

McGlashan’s .............8Oakdene Vineyards ..8Pettavel Winery

& Restaurant .....11Portarlington

Bakehouse ...........4Queenscliff Day Spa .5Queenscliff

Farm Foods ..........5Queenscliff Harbour

Marine Precinct ...5Queenscliff Hotel .....5Rolling Pin Pies ........9Scotchmans Hill .......3Sea All Dolphin

Swims ..................5SeaBounty ................4The Beach House

Lolly Shop ............9The Ol’ Duke .............4Vue Grand ................5

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