This isn't your typical run of the mill kukri from Nepal, nor From the ‘States.

Perhaps, to call it a Kukri is technically correct given it's designation is made in Nepal in a proper workshop and is forged via traditional and refined methods.

However, the design is a real radical dep[arture from what the international export and village Kukris that locals use day to day. For sure it's quite american in design, given it's product description of event the Jason Knight from Forged in fire is impressed by it.

Coming at an american fulltang, with a bit of taper to the end, to deliver more weight to the blade, it's scales are a smooth rosewood handle, with brass or copper pins to secure it. The bolster is steel, seemingly molded into the blade, which has no notch, or chira, instead it's a finger choke for finer control.

Perhaps it's a fighting knife, hunting applications, light survival chopper for sure.

The options are quite vast given how much functional thought was put into its compact stature, you can do quite a bit with a mere 10 inch blade, other than lack of reach

( but then again, jumping and lunging is another last ditch option)

Given it's rather radical departure from the typical kukri designs and the fact it's very "american" in the design and intent behind it. It's not a bad thing to be "american", since they are good at what they are good at, knives are one of them, and their willingness to be 80s tastic about it is a bit of a charm to it too.

Given it's full tang construction, batoning wood is going to be short work, unless you want to split logs and highly unadvised to do so, get a maul or axe for that level of work, that's base building.

Given it's a kukri, naturally, it's going to be exceedingly great at two things.

Chopping and Dismembering.

* will let you think about it on your own time there.

Given it's steep grind bevel ("jungle grind" is another term) and still convexed to a good degree

for use, it has made short work of slicing meat and sausages out in the field, impressive for whatit is.

And because it’s sharp, having that initial bite into the wood for batoning makes it easy for splitting, Sharpness counts, since you always want that “bite” to aid in a follow-up via the bevel.If others think their knife is sharp, tell them to try out the fingernail test or see if they can do feather sticks and the infamous paper cutting test.

It’s sweet spot is either in the inner curve, or the clearly outer curve area, but then again it;s dependent on what you want to get done with it.

The spine area, there are few clues to its function, for the pointer or middle finger to sit on the spot, and aids in control for finer work or straight up skinning a large game of sorts. The front area is reinforced to withstand impact of a thrust, much like a spear or pike.

The base area of the blade is rather thick, but the angular taper reduces it down, not to mention the single fullers on both ends, aiding in not only weight reduction, but still holds up the blade's stress durability.

Lanyard, either you hate or love, the hole is there. Up to you if you just want to hang bling, swag, trophies, or other EDC knick knacks. In my case, just a basic adjustable wrist holder.

The Scabbard, it's quite minimal in nature, due to the fact the kukri has none of the two other

standard issue tools with it, it's overall weight is reduced despite being a full tang, even the carrier for it, weighing little to stop it from sagging or weighting up your belt or rig.

The Finish of the leath is this natural color with black accents, and the fully riveted loops.

One last thing to note about this design, how to sheath and unsheath it.

Due to it's blade profile, it's not exactly the most smooth inserection due to the spine.

The best way found so far is to know where the hump is, and carefully “notch” it into the scabbard.

Overall, it's something that I would no recommend for most people, it's a rather niche blade that has but quite an american approach, and warfare comes into mind with it's thrust tastic profile,

It has its Perks too.

-full tang, heavier in body and handle but batton is easier and much more durable

-lanyard hole, your call on what to do with it

-no notch, a choke groove instead, finer control takes priority over tradition.

-scabbard is ultra basic, but great quality. A good blade protector and carrier comes a long way, hard to beat.

-steep grind/bevel, convexed, cuts deep, but might roll or chip if abused beyond it's intended weight class, don’t bother with logs.

-has a Kukri as base designs, but has functions and intent of an american hunting knife for big game, or just a really cool looking survival knife that can hold up to its claims.

Visit the GGK(Great Gurkha Kukri) site and it’s Kukri listings here.

https://www.greatgurkhakhukuri.com/

https://www.greatgurkhakhukuri.com/shop/special/10-jungle-king-khukuri/

*to have easier access to the PDF

consider this freeware here

https://www.sumatrapdfreader.org/download-free-pdf-viewer.html