Theory of Dyeing-F. Jones

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    THE THEORY OF DYEING

    15

    The Theory

    of

    Dyeing

    F.

    JONES

    Department of Colorir Chemistry and Dyeing, University of Leeds, Leeds LS2

    9JT

    Introduction

    Previous reviews of research work directed toward

    a

    greater

    understanding

    of

    the way in which dye molecules are transferred

    from th e dyeing medium to the polymer

    or

    substrate phase have

    stressed that

    a

    unified fundamental theory, applicable to all

    dyeing processes, is still

    far

    f rom

    a

    reality and may never be

    attained. The main reason for this is that in any dyeing process

    there are many variable parameters, some

    or

    all of which are

    mutually dependent. T o achieve any progress in such studies, it is

    necessary to control these parameters

    so

    that the effect

    of

    each

    on

    the dyeing system can be determined. This may not always be

    possible. Thus, altering the dye concentration within an aq ueous

    dyebath in order

    to

    study the concentration changes of dye

    within a substrate may, even where

    all

    other conditions can be

    maintained constant, produce

    a

    change in the structure

    of

    the

    solvent and

    a

    possible alteration in th e nature of the dye species

    partaking in dyeing.

    Some

    of

    these variable parameters in the molecular dyeing

    theory for ionic and non-ionic systems have been discussed

    recently by McGregor a nd Peters

    1).

    Structural features of both

    dye and polymer which may influence the thermodynamics and

    the kinetics of dyeing includ e:

    I ) the nature, conce ntration, distribution and degree of ionisation

    of

    ionisable groups in the dye in the solvent and subs trate phases

    (2)

    the molecular and ionic interaction s of all the species present in

    both phases

    (3)

    the volume fraction, configuration and distribution

    of

    both

    the crystalline and th e amorphous regions, and the degree

    of

    ionisa-

    tion

    of

    ionisable groups, in the s ubstr ate

    4)

    the existence of reversible and non-reversible stresses within

    the polymer before

    and

    during coloration

    5 )

    structural changes

    in

    the solvent distributed betwaen the

    two

    phases.

    Since these changes are not independent, the researcher has to

    adopt several simplifications and use model experiments where

    variables can be contro lled.

    The

    results obtained in this manner can be compared with

    calculated results obtained from theoretical models utilising th e

    same number of variables. Model systems can therefore be used

    only

    to

    illustrate specific poin ts in dyeing theory. One su ch model

    (2) ,

    used to illustrate the equilibrium values and kinetics

    of

    dyeing of non-ionic dyes, is based on simple mixing theory in

    which dye molecules may be treated as occupying mean positions

    in a quasi-crystalline

    or

    liquid (substrate) lattice. The funda-

    mental concept

    is

    identical with that

    (3)

    describing the thermo-

    dynamic behaviour of non-ionic solutes in which the solute

    structure in the solvent is com parab le with that

    of

    a supercooled

    liquid. It can thus be shown that the partial molar enthalpy of

    solution,

    AE,

    of disperse dyes in the fibre is directly related t o th e

    melting point of the dye according to the expression

    where

    4

    and

    4

    represent the site fraction

    of

    the dye at tempera-

    tures T and

    Tm,

    the dyeing temperature and melting point,

    respectively. The value 0,,, may be obtained by extrapolation.

    Eqn

    1

    is equally valid for th e solution

    of

    disperse dyes in water.

    As certain non-ionic dyes can exist as metastable liquids

    at

    temperatures as low as 20°C

    4),

    the possibility

    of

    interpretation

    inherent within this model m ay fruitfully bear fu rther examina-

    tion. The model

    is,

    however, subject to serious limitations. It

    applies only to ideal systems, i.e. those

    of

    low equilibrium dye

    concentration, and can

    be

    applied only when it is known that

    water plays

    no

    part in determining the equilibrium saturation

    value

    of

    the dye in the substrate. More recent work

    5 )

    on the

    adsorption

    of

    azobenzene and p-nitroaniline vapo urs by subs-

    trate films in the presence and in the absence

    of

    unsaturated

    water vapour has shown that the equilibrium saturation values

    of

    these compounds in second ary cellulose acetate are inversely

    related to the amount

    of

    water vapour absorbed.

    The

    simple

    binary mixing theory

    of

    dyeing may be more successfully

    applied to hydrophobic polymers such as polypropylene, where

    water plays an insignificant role in the abs orpti on

    of

    dye.

    By using the same basic assumptions

    ( 2 ) .

    with regard to the

    state and distribution of dye within the polymer, and applying

    phenomenological equations, it can also be shown from this

    model that the kinetics

    of

    dyeing of hydrophobic fibres can be

    expressed by

    C =

    S[I -exp(-8r)l

    . 2)

    where

    Cr

    s the total amoun t

    of

    dye absorbed at time

    t ,

    S

    is the

    solubility

    of

    the dye within the fibre and

    8

    is

    a

    rate constant.

    Comparison

    of

    experimental rates of dyeing with Eqn 2 for

    assumed values

    of

    shows good agreement, although this

    expression does not ta ke into account

    a n y

    localised variation

    of

    activities existing at surfaces an d phase boundaries.

    Much published research

    on

    dyeing and coloration is directed

    towards the further understanding of practical commercial

    processes, and comparatively little

    is

    published on what is

    sometimes regarded

    as

    academic dyeing theory. Many experi-

    mental results from the former group would be

    of

    more value to

    the theoretician

    if

    the chemical structures and purity

    of

    additives

    in the dyeing process, dyes and polymers could be disclosed and

    the conditions during dyeing systematically defined. Although

    much is published, this review has therefore had to be limited

    to

    salient pape rs in which these restriction s have been met.

    Dyeing theory is concerned with the thermodynamics and

    kinetics

    of

    processes occurring within th e dyebath, the interaction

    between dyeing species and the internal an d external surfaces of

    fibres, transfer from these surfaces by diffusion processes to

    equilibrium positions within the substrate and the behaviour of

    dyes once this type

    of

    equilibrium has been achieved. It is

    proposed therefore to discuss recent advances in dyeing theory

    under these headings and to include recent work carried out in

    less conventional systems, such as heat-fixation methods. Since

    coloration with reactive dyes entails simultaneous physical

    absorption and chemical reactions within the dyebath an d within

    the substrate, this topic will be considered separately, although

    this division is somewhat unreal. By this means it is hoped t hat

    the reader will

    be

    given a more comprehensive view

    of

    dyeing

    theory without any artificial division based on s ubst rate types.

    State

    of

    Dyes

    in Solutions

    and

    Dispersions

    Concepts concerning the structural nature

    of

    water

    (6),

    the

    presence

    of

    cavities a nd ice-like clusters

    of

    water molecules that

    are not ‘inter-cluster’ hydrogen-bonded, and the influence of

    solutes in changing these structures have meant tha t ideas

    on

    the

    structure

    of

    aque ous dye solutions h ave been modified in recent

    years. This has been particularly relevant to studies of the

    phenomenon of association of dye species in the solution.

    Coates

    7)

    has surveyed the forces of interaction between like

    ionic species which can lead to d imerisation an d higher degrees of

    association and has discussed this process from its thermo-

    dynamic and kinetic aspects. Although the standa.rd free-energy

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    16

    REVIEW

    OF

    PROGRESS

    IN COLORATION; JONES

    change involving both enthalpy change and entropy change in the

    dimerisation for any dye can be determined from the equilibrium

    constant governing the reversible formation of dimer from two

    monomeric species and its temperature dependence, the values

    obtained in practice depend on the accuracy of the means by

    which the equilibrium constant is obtained.

    Thus,

    to

    a first approximation the dimerisation of a number of

    ionised monosulphonated dyes and of some positively charged

    basic dye cations is accompanied by standard entropy changes of

    from - 0 to -20 cal deg-1 mole-1. This decrease is made up in

    part by a

    loss

    in translational entropy of the monomeric ion and in

    part by a gain in entropy of the water. This gain of entropy by the

    solvent is due to the probable decrease in the structural order of

    the water promoted more effectively in the vicinity of a mono-

    meric ion than in the region of

    a

    dimeric species. Conversely,

    entropy values obtained for non-ionic dye vapours, which exist

    mainly

    in

    the form of dimers

    a),

    show that, under anhydrous

    conditions, the decrease in entropy related to dimer formation is

    only of the order of -1.0 to

    -2.0

    cal deg-1 mole-1. This

    decrease is therefore much less than that generally observed for

    dimerisation in solution. It must, however, be pointed out that

    association in the vapour is between molecules that, although

    polarisable, do not possess a fully developed charge. It appears

    then that the structural nature of water promotes association and

    explains the large equilibrium shift towards monomer formation

    at high temperatures, since the structure of the solvent is strongly

    dependent on temperature. If association of dye molecules were

    dependent only on the forces of interaction contributing to

    hydrophobic bonding, then the phenomenon would also be

    observed in other solvents. Since association is much less marked

    in organic solvents of low dielectric constant, it can be concluded,

    at least for basic dyes possessing a non-localised positive charge

    9), that increased water-water interactions overcome the

    repulsion forces acting between dye ions of similar charge.

    The possibility that dye ions associate in solution is very real

    and, if this is not taken into account, errors in determining such

    parameters as ionisation constants can be considerable. The

    problem can be overcome to some extent by using very dilute dye

    solutions, where the probability of collision may reasonably be

    expected to be low. Even so, self-associationoccurs at concentra-

    tions as low as one milligram of dye anion per litre of solution

    (10). In determining ionisation constants for a number of

    monosulphonated 00'-dihydroxyazo mordant dyes, it was

    necessary to use mixtures of dioxan and water to overcome

    association effects and extrapolate the ionisation constants to

    values for pure water. It was then possible to compare the effect

    of association on the ionisation constant related to the ionisation

    of the first hydroxyl group in these dyes. This is increased when

    association occurs. Under more alkaline conditions both

    hydroxyl groups are ionised and association is minimised or

    eliminated since the repulsion forces between the trivalent fully

    ionised entities are much larger.

    The influence of additives such as urea

    I I ) ,

    formamide

    (12),

    N-alkylacylamides

    (13)

    and alcohols

    (9)

    on the structure and

    properties of dye solutions has recently been studied. It is

    generally accepted that additives of this type induce disorientation

    of the water structure in the vicinity of the dye ion, thereby

    reducing aggregation attributed to

    loss

    of hydrophobic interaction.

    It has been pointed

    ou t

    14) that this mechanism has not been

    conclusively proved, although no doubt a decrease in dye-dye

    interaction by the action of urea on dye solutions does occur, and

    leads to increased rates of dyeing. The swelling action on protein

    substrates and reduction of hydrophobic interaction in the

    substrates by urea also contribute to an increase in the rates of

    dyeing, thus illustrating the interdependence of parameters

    mentioned earlier.

    Non-ionic disperse dyes possess very low solubilities n aqueous

    dispersions at the dyeing temperature, and association, which

    may occur in.the absence of formally charged structures, may be

    very difficult to detect by conventional means. Anomalies in

    rates of dyeing found by McDowell and Weingarten

    15)

    n

    applying four pure disperse dyes to polyester material have, on

    the other hand, been interpreted in terms of an increase in

    particle size of the dye, leading to lower aqueous solubility. This

    reasoning assumes that the rate of dyeing

    is

    directly related to the

    concentration of dissolved dye molecules. When the pure dye is

    pretreated in boiling water, the rate of dyeing in some cases

    decreases and in others increases. These authors had earlier

    16)

    drawn attention to the classical equation relating solubility to

    particle size and molecular weight, viz.

    3)

    where S, is the mean solubility of a particle of radius r,

    y

    is the

    free surface energy,

    p

    is the density of the solid and

    S

    is the

    minimum solubilitywhen the particle size

    is

    increased. There must

    be a maximum value of r for the condition Sr =S nd this can be

    shown 17) to be approximately

    10-2

    pm, which is much less than

    the mean radius of disperse dye particles. Further, the anomalies

    in rates of dyeing were inconsistent, and it is now suggested that

    the inconsistency may be explained by the formation of different

    structural modifications

    of

    the solid dye during dyeing. These

    modifications could be verifiable from X-ray diffraction data.

    That this possibility has not been put forward by the authors is

    surprising, since in another context 18) it is stated that X-ray

    diffraction data are obtained as a matter of routine.

    Solid-state transitions and polymorphic changes occurring

    through solution and recrystallisation mechanisms are well

    established in non-ionic dyes and pigments. In azo pigments

    transitions occur on heating the pigment in an aqueous environ-

    ment 19), and Apperley (20)has recently studied the influence of

    surface-active agents on the morphology of

    C.I.

    Disperse Yellow

    3

    at the coupling stage.If such changes are occurring

    in

    dyebaths,

    then further research on specific systems from this aspect may

    throw considerable light on anomalous results obtained in

    dyeing research.

    J h e t i c s of

    Dyeing

    Diffusion processes in dyeing are essentially those describing

    the mass transfer of dye from the external aqueous phase to the

    interior of the substrate, and the distribution of dye within this

    substrate up to its saturation equilibrium value. A complete

    description of transfer mechanisms should therefore include

    possible formation of a boundary layer in proximity to the fibre

    within the aqueous phase, the boundary conditions at the inter-

    face between this layer and the fibre, a possible diffusion layer

    between the interface and the fibre interior, and the mechan-

    ism by which the dye is transferred to the centre of the fibre.

    When possible changes with respect to concentration and the

    effect

    of

    additives other than dyes in the above phases are con-

    sidered, in relation to structural changes occurring within the

    substrate, it can be seen that the overall dyeing mechanism is very

    complex. Fundamental studies of rates of dyeing are therefore,

    where possible, limited to conditions that will allow assessment of

    transfer processes with a minimum of dependent parameters.

    Weisz and Zollinger

    (21)

    have considered the transfer of dye in

    solution within substrate capillaries in which partial sorption or

    immobilisation of the diffusant occurs. In this model, where

    sorption of this type is reversible, he apparent diffusion coefficient

    DA s defined by

    . 4)

    where

    P

    is the fraction of the substrate accessible to diffusion

    processes,b is a tortuosity constant, which is less than

    4 3 ,

    Cf/C,

    is the ratio of the total concentration

    of

    dye,

    Cj;

    per unit

    volume

    of fibre to an external dyebath concentration

    C,,,

    at equilibrium.

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    THE THEORY OF DYEING

    17

    n

    is the equilibrium partition coefficient between the mobile

    portion of the internal dye concentration and the external dye

    concentration, and

    D

    is the true diffusion coefficient

    of

    the

    mobile

    dye molecules within th at region of the su bstra te accessible

    to diffusive motion. T he co nstant

    a

    depends on the particular

    form

    of

    the absorption isotherm and falls within the range

    1

    * l a6 depending on the affinity of th e dye in th e system.

    Eqn 4 is of general applicability and has been applied to an

    earlier model for diffusion in cellulose

    (22)

    when the dye is

    considered to be migrating along water-filled pores with simul-

    taneous adsorption. By assuming that t he accessibility parameter,

    P,

    an

    be

    equated with a fractional uptake

    of

    water by th e fibre

    and that the dye concentration is the same in the internal and

    external aqueous phases, i.e.

    n

    =1, for dyes

    of

    high affinity where

    a

    approaches

    1

    ‘6,

    the eq uation ha s been successfully applied t o

    previously published results on diffusion. Although there must be

    some reservation on the assumed values

    of

    n and

    a,

    t is interest-

    ing to observe that, for a direct dye, the value of th e true diffusion

    coefficient, D,

    of

    the m obile dye molecules within the fibre is very

    similar in magnitude to the value fo r th e diffusion coefficient of

    dye molecules within the bulk aqu eous phase. It i s concluded that

    for this dye the pore model with partial dye sorptio n is adeq uate

    to account for the kinetics of dye transpo rt. Agreement is not as

    good for acid dyes on nylon, but, with further assumptions abo ut

    the aqueous solubility of disperse dyes, values for D obtained

    from the general Eqn

    4

    for disperse dyes applied to polyesters and

    cellulose acetates closely follow the

    D

    values for diffusion in

    water alone.

    Th e general applicability of this equa tion ca nno t, however, be

    substantiated until further quantitative dat a on dye solubility and

    free aqueous diffusion coefficients have been obtained. Very

    little recent information is available on t he latter. Murfet

    (23)

    has

    determined the relative diffusivity

    of

    C.I. Acid Red

    1

    using

    a

    vertical diffusion cell with

    a

    sintered-glass membrane. A lthough

    the true aqueous diffusivity of the dye cannot

    be

    determined,

    since the tortuosity and effective area of the sinter are not

    amenable to absolute measurement, it is interesting to n ote tha t

    relative diffusivity decreases in t he presence of urea, in co ntras t

    with the fact that ur ea causes an increase in the rate of dyeing of

    this dye on wool

    14). One possible interpretation is that urea

    accelerates dyeing by influencing other parameters such as the

    structure

    of

    the boundary layer and the substrate, while having an

    opposing effect on th e migration

    of

    dye in the internal aqueous

    phase.

    Although Fick‘s equations are often used as

    a

    basis for

    diffusion studies, it is now accepted that theoretically determined

    rate curves are comparatively insensitive to initial and boundary

    conditions and to differential equations used in their derivation.

    To

    gain more detailed information on t he diffusion mechanisms,

    it is necessary to obta in concentration-distance profiles, usually

    by cross-sectioning fibres or films and determining dye distribu-

    tion by microdensitometry. This has been done

    ( 2 4 )

    for the

    dyeing of various polymer films with disperse dyes in the presence

    and in the absence

    of

    carriers. That in conventional dyeing

    processes there are at least three components-dye, sub strate and

    solvent-leads

    to

    a complex situation. Th e addition of carrier is

    a

    further complication. Even with the simplest systems rates

    of

    dyeing cannot be adequately dealt with in Fickian terms, since

    the latter are expressly concerned with a binary system.

    According to McGregor

    et al. (24) ,

    each component will

    occupy

    a

    definite fraction

    of

    the fibre phase,

    so

    that, when

    restrictions are imposed on this total volume, we might expect

    that a n inward flow or volume flux of dye would

    be

    accompanied

    by an outward flow

    of

    dyebath medium and that these opposing

    flows might interact. This relative motion

    of

    molecules in

    a

    multi-component system can cause

    a

    change in volume or a

    hydrodynamic bulk flow

    of

    the system. It becomes necessary

    then, particularly at high diffusant concentrations, t o correct the

    measured diffusion

    flow

    to take account of any hydrodynamic

    transfer of the component under investigation. This could be

    achieved by taking into account

    a

    frame

    of

    reference within

    which the diffusion process is measured. T he reference frame may

    be delineated in several ways. By conducting diffusion experi-

    men ts in pre-swollen fibres

    or films,

    t can be assumed that no

    furth er change in volume occurs o n dyeing, and he re the reference

    frame is fixed with respect to the surface of the fibre

    or

    film.

    Under these conditions Fick‘s laws do appear to apply and

    reference-frame effects may become important only in carrier

    dyeing and in dyeing fibres that have not been pre-swollen.

    Irreversible changes in polyester structures have recently been

    observed

    (25)

    n carrier dyeing with disperse dyes.

    A method f or determining concentration-distance profiles

    without cross-sectioning an d thereby standardising the frame-of-

    reference effects still furth er ha s been developed by Blacker and

    Patterson (26). The m ethod utilises the continuou s changes in

    transmitted monochromatic light when

    a

    dyed filament, of

    circular cross-section, is scanned across its longitudinal axis by

    moving th e filament across

    a

    narrow slit. A microspectrophoto-

    meter is used for this purpose, the results being suitable for

    com pute r calculation to determine the dye distribution across the

    fibre. Changes in profile shap e for

    a

    number of disperse dyeings

    on polyester and nylon 6.6 filaments over

    a

    range

    of

    dyeing times

    were obtained. The profile shape and the observation that in all

    cases

    a

    time-dependent increasing surface concentration

    of

    dye

    occurs showed that th e rate of transpo rt of dye to a boundary

    just within the surface

    of

    the substrate

    is

    no higher than that at

    which dye is transferred

    to

    the interior. It is also interesting to

    observe that fo r nylon

    6.6

    this latter rate

    is

    extremely high, even

    durin g the initial stages of dyeing, since horizo ntal profiles were

    obtained. This behaviour is difficult

    to

    interpret unless it is

    assumed either that th e subs trate is behaving like

    a

    liquid or th at

    the driving force

    for

    diffusion is

    a

    variation in activity and not

    concentration

    of

    the diffusing species.

    When the dye and the substrate possess charges

    o f

    opposite

    sign, which usually applies to t he nylon-acid dye system und er

    acid conditions, the charge on the fibre becomes increasingly

    negative during dyeing. This happens in the dyeing of nylon

    with Orange I (C.I. Acid Orange 7), the surface potential

    becoming increasingly more negative

    as

    dye concentrations both

    within

    ( 2 7 )

    and on the surface

    ( 2 8 )

    increase. The initial surface

    potential depends on the history

    of

    the substrate. Bell

    ( 2 9 )

    has

    found that rates of dyeing

    of

    acid dyes on nylon 6.6 are directly

    proportional to the surface area and the saturation equilibrium

    value

    of

    the dye on th e substrate. Th e latter values ar e considered

    to be directly related to ami ne end-group con tent, bu t, in contrast

    with Suzawa a nd Saito’s results

    (28) ,

    it is assumed that there is

    no possibility of adsorption

    of

    dye on the surface. Bell’s con-

    clusions must therefore be taken with som e reservation, p articu-

    larly when it is noted th at dye concentrations in the fibre phase

    were estimated solely on the basis of changes in dye concentration

    occurring within the dyebath.

    When the ion and the substrate are oppositely charged,

    interaction between species can lead t o additional factors in the

    interpretation

    of

    molecular diffusion processes. Some attention

    has been paid to this problem by Mayer

    (30)

    in the dyeing

    of

    acrylic fibres (negative sites) with cationic basic dyes under

    commercial conditions. Diffusion is satisfactorily achieved only

    below a certain temperature and strict temperature control is

    necessary t o achieve

    a

    reasonable rate of dyeing consistent with

    levelness. Above this maximum temperature, bond formation,

    represented by salt linkage, inhibits the attainment of adequate

    rates

    of

    diffusion. Information to investigate this problem in

    a

    fundamental way is, however, lacking a t present.

    A generalised treatment for explaining non -Fickian behaviour

    has been given recently

    (31) .

    This type of diffusion, usually

    attributed to substrate changes, can also occur when a second

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    REVIEW OF PROGRESS IN COLORATION; JONES

    independent process such as a n immobilising chemical reaction

    is superimposed with a comparable time scale. The presence of

    blind pores acting as diffusant sinks in a porous subs trate can

    also have this effect. Anomalous diffusion may also arise in

    systems in which thermody namic diffusion coefficients, theo-

    retically determined from practical diffusion coefficients an d

    diffusant solubility, depend both on activity and on penetration

    distance

    in

    such a way that activity and distance variables canno t

    be separately assessed. Solutions to this general problem require

    a large amount

    of

    computation and are wcrthwhile only

    in

    particular circumstances.

    The molecular interpretation of diffusion of dyes in polymeric

    systems is based on the strong dependence of the apparent

    diffusion coefficients D A on temperature, which often follows a

    simple Arrhenius eq uatio n, viz.

    D A -

    Do exp - E / R T )

    . . 5 )

    where

    D,,

    s a pre-exponential

    or

    proportionality constant and E

    is the activation energy of diffusion. This energy is required by

    the diffusing molecule to enable it

    to

    jump from one absorption

    site

    to

    a vacant neighbour. The pre-exponential factor is related

    to

    the jum p distance and entropy

    of

    diffusion. For more hydro-

    phobic fibres, the activation energy

    of

    diffusion is related to the

    energy

    of

    hole formation

    within

    the polymer which allows the

    dye molecule to diffuse.

    I n

    this respect it has been observed

    (32)

    that the activation energy

    of

    diffusion for disperse dyes

    in

    unmodified polypropylene

    is

    higher (by approximately

    14

    kcal/

    mole) than that observed when the same dyes are applied

    to

    cellulose acetate. T he difference may be du e t o the temperature

    dependence of interchain bonding

    in

    polypropylene and to the

    swelling of cellulose acetate caused by absorbed water.

    In

    confirmation,

    it

    has previously been found that deso rption from

    vapour-dyed polypropylene film occurs simply on cooling,

    whereas desorption from vapour-dyed cellulose acetate occurs

    only in

    the presence

    of

    water vapour.

    I t

    is therefore possible that

    at high temperatures diffusion into polypropylene is a process

    simply of mixing.

    Thermodynamics of Dyeing Processes

    When diffusion is allowcd to contitwe

    unt i l

    n o further dye is

    absorbed, the dye-substrate-solvent system can be considered

    to be

    i n

    a state of dynamic equilibrium p rovided th at the physicril

    and chemical forces appertaining to the processes of adsorption

    are completely reversible, there being, for instance, n o perm anent

    change in the structure of the substrate during dyeing. The

    variation

    with

    temperature of the amount

    of

    dye absorbed at

    equilibrium (the equilibrium sorption value) allows thermo-

    dynamic quantities such as the standard affinity or free-energy

    change, and heat and entropy of dyeing to be determined.

    Application of these concepts to dyeing systems, however,

    requires certain assumptions about the ideal behaviour

    of

    the dye

    species in the solvent, the internal solution and substrate phases.

    Assumptions have also

    to

    be made abo ut the internal o r available

    volume in the substrate within which absorp tiono ccurs .

    The free-energy change,

    lc n

    the transfer

    of

    one mole of dye

    from

    its standard state

    in

    solution

    to

    its standard state

    in

    the

    fibre is given by

    . . 6)

    where lF is the standard enthalpy or heat-content change

    in

    the

    process and

    15

    s the corresponding entrop y change. Th e stan-

    dar d stat e of the dye may be arbitrarily defined for both phases.

    Energies

    of

    bonding between dye and substrate for different dyes

    may

    be

    compared only on this basis within the limits

    of

    the above

    assumptions. High heats o f bonding between dye and substrate

    molecules indicate a large change

    in

    entropy or decrease

    in

    randomness

    of

    dye molecules on absorption, but

    it

    has been

    pointed out

    ( 3 3 )

    that such correlations may be spurious when

    LIZ'

    nd

    .IF'

    re obtained from the same set

    of

    data, and con-

    firmation is required by mathematical transformation.

    i c

    ~

    lF

    - - T A T

    lyer

    el a/ ( 3 4 )

    have applied Eqn

    6

    to show that a relation

    between

    A H '

    and

    4 3

    does exist in the dyeing

    of

    cellulose with

    Chlorazol Sky Blue

    FF C.1.

    Direct Blue

    1

    and that

    4Ec

    alues

    increase with increasing size of alkali-metal cations present

    during absorption. Calculated values

    of

    activity

    of

    the dye in

    solution were used together with a variable substrate-volume

    parameter defined previously

    35)

    as the product of the surface

    area available for dye sorption and the thickness

    of

    the diffuse

    double layer existing between the bulk dyebath phase and the

    oute r surface of cellulose.

    As A i r

    ncreases in this manner there

    is a corresponding increase

    in

    the value

    of

    the entrop y change

    uhic h is considered t o be due t o different packing arrangements

    of dye molecules at the surface of the substrate. The interpreta-

    tion of these results, however, in terms of a breakdown in water

    structure

    in

    the vicinity of the cellulose in the presence

    of

    large

    cations (as is done by the authors) must be treated cautiously,

    since thermodynamic data are concerned only with differences

    in initial and final states and can give no information on the

    mechanism by which the final sta te is appro ached . It is interesting

    in this connection to note th at, in the dyeing

    of

    cellulose with the

    leuco ani on of a non-sym metrical vat dye-a process similar to

    the application

    of

    direct dyes-stacking or associ ation

    of

    the dye

    anion occurs on the fibre, and this leads to an oxidised dyeing

    in which associates are present before oxidation

    (36).

    More attention has been paid recently to research on the

    dyeing

    of

    wool an d nylon with acid dyes. Interaction has generally

    been considered as electrostatic bonding between dye anion

    and positively charged sites such as protonated amine groups

    existing

    in

    the substrate under acid conditions. This conclusion

    has been deduced from studies of sorption isotherms where no

    further increase in dye sorption beyond the value equivalent

    to

    the number

    of

    charged sites has been obtained. T he possibility

    that van der Waals forces arising from dipole-induced dipole

    interaction an d dispersion forces also operate must not be exclu-

    ded. Possible substrate changes, particularly when the attainment

    of equilibrium is prolonged, leading to the exposure of sites at

    which interaction with dye anions may occur, must also be con-

    s

    dered.

    One approech to reduce the number of these parameters

    (37)

    has been to study the absorption of dye anions that normally

    have no substantivity for cellulose, by a cellulose substrate

    modified by conversion of some of the hydroxyl groups to

    8-aminoethyl groups. Any dye bonding occurring should there-

    fcre be specific

    to

    the amino groups. Thermodynamic affinities

    and heats of dyeing show that t he dye anion has interacted with

    the protonated amin o group. Changes in accessibility compared

    with unmodified cellulose are shown to be negligible, but the

    modification reaction in which polyethyleneimines having

    substantivity for the substrate

    (38)

    are formed may lead

    to

    a

    substrate

    in

    which more than one type

    of

    adsorption site

    is

    present. The assumption of lack of substantivity of these acid

    dyes for cellulose and their precise mode

    of

    interaction with

    amin o groups have been called into question 39), but in a simpler

    system

    ( 4 0 ) ,

    when the same dyes have been applied to amino-

    polypropylene under acid conditions, the correlation between

    protonated amino groups and equilibrium sorption values has

    been explained on the basis

    of

    a simple ion-exchange model.

    Although Langmuir-type adsorption isotherms indicate

    a

    probable stoichiometric relation, amounts of dye absorbed over

    and above th e limiting value (overdyeing) give rise to Freundlich-

    type isotherms. This phenomen on is attributed t o th e presence. of

    associated dye species within the dyebath. Theoretical expressions

    describing differences

    in

    the two types of isotherm for acid dyes

    on nylon depend not only on the degree

    of

    association of dye in

    the dyebath but also

    on

    the equilibrium established between

    sorbed and mobile dye anions within the polymer phase 41).

    This latter type

    of

    equilibrium behaviour has been considered

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    THE THEORY OF DYEING

    19

    by Marshall

    42),

    particularly for Orange I1 applied to a wool

    substrate at the isoelectric point. By using

    a

    model based on

    DoMan equilibrium partition and applying the condition

    of

    electrical neutrality in internal and external solutions, variations

    in dye-sorption isotherms can be attributed to the influence

    of

    dye Concentration

    on

    the equilibrium between absorbed dye and

    mobile dye in the internal solution. In approximating estimated

    values of this equilibrium constant over a range of concentra-

    tions, it was necessary to vary th e equilibrium constant to give the

    best fit to the experimentally determined isotherms. This variation

    may be used to determine the activity coefficient and hence th e

    degree of association

    of

    the dyes within the internal aqueous

    phase, and, when this w as calculated, the values of the activity

    coefficient were similar to thos e calculated for the external dye-

    bath phase.

    In the thermodynamics

    of

    dyeing hydrophobic fibres with

    disperse dyes, isotherms that are linear up to th e point of satura-

    tion with respect to the dyebath phase are usually obtained.

    Since most disperse dyes have very limited solubility in water,

    even at the dyeing temperature, experimental difficulties arise in

    determining whether such solutions a re monomolecularly dis-

    persed or contain associated species. Recent research by

    McDowell and Weingarten

    18)

    has no t revealed any conclusive

    results on this point, but it was shown that at

    120°C

    non-linear

    isotherms could

    be

    obtained with 1 amino-4-hydroxyanthra-

    quinone on polyester film. The isotherms were linear up to the

    saturation solubility of the dye in the aqueo us phase, the gradual

    approach to

    a

    maximum value for up take within th e film beyond

    this point being attributed to changes in the substrate. Th e heats

    and entropies of dyeing

    for

    a

    number of dyes, when determined

    from absorption isotherms, were higher than the values deter-

    mined from the temperature coefficient of the ratio of solubilities

    of the dye in polyester to the solubilities in water. In thermo-

    dynar+ c terms this difference is explained

    43)

    by the Fact that

    the heat of dyeing determined from sorption isotherms is an

    integral heat of dyeing where the total heat evolved is due not

    only to the interaction between dye and subs trate molecules but

    also, in the later stages, to the interaction between entering dye

    molecules and substrate that already contains dye molecules.

    The heat of dyeing obtained f rom solubility ratios approaches the

    value for a heat of interaction between dye molecules and

    a

    substrate containing dye. In the limit th e difference between the

    two is equal to

    RT,

    which at 150°C (the maximum dyeing tem-

    perature used) is 0.84 kcal/mole. T he experimentally determined

    difference is greater tha n this value an d lies in th e range 1.78-4.45

    kcal/mole

    for

    the dyes considered. Two contributory causes are

    possible. The first is that association of dye could

    occur

    in the

    substrate and the second that contributions to the experimentally

    determined heats of solution of the dyes in water may arise fro m

    heats of solid-state transitions occurring in the dye-solid suspen-

    sion. Whether disperse dyes are associated in the substrate is

    still an open question

    (see

    below) and the possibility of solid-

    state transitions occurring in disperse dye suspensions needs to

    be more fully investigated.

    Chemical Reaction with Substrates and Fibres

    Although use is made of conventional physico-chemical

    concepts in elucidating the mechanisms

    of

    reaction

    of

    coloured

    compounds with substrates, discussion of the subject has been

    arbitrarily divorced from normal dyeing theory in the past

    since reactive-dyeing mechanisms involve no t only interaction by

    physical ionic and dipole-induced dipole and dispersion forces

    but also formation of covalent bonds with the substrate. With

    reactive dyes, simultaneous hydrolysis

    of

    the dye by water in

    both external and internal phases can occur. The resultant

    changes in chemical structure

    of

    both dye and substrate during

    dyeing therefore lead

    to

    more complex mechanisms of abso rptio n

    and fixation.

    Rattee has recently reviewed

    44)

    the chemistry

    of

    these

    reactions from

    a

    kinetic stan dpoint. I n view of the heterogeneous

    nature of the dyeing process, the initial model system used has

    been one in which a homogeneous reaction phase-soluble

    reactive dye, soluble alcohol acting a s the sub strate and water-

    is considered. Reaction of dye with alcohol is analogous with

    fixation

    of

    dye o n cellulose. The fixation a nd hydrolysis reactions

    are bimolecular, although the total reaction norm ally behaves as

    a

    pseudo-unimolecular reaction because water and alcohol are

    present in excess. It can be shown that, under conditions where

    the alcohol is very slightly ionised, th e ratio

    of

    the rate constants

    of fixation and hydrolysis, i.e. the reactivity ratio, Z, must

    be

    cons tant at any temperature an d be independent of pH co nditions.

    At higher pH values, the ionisation of the alcohol may become

    significant and th e reactivity rat io in this case is no longer con-

    stant but depend s on pH. W hen the model is extended

    to

    include

    cellulose, which contains ionisable primary and secondary

    alcoholic groups, the situation becomes more complex, since

    reactions may proceed at different rates in the fibre and

    in

    the

    aqueous phase. The distribution of dye between the two phases

    assumes

    a

    greater significance und er these conditions and the rate

    of

    diffusion into the fibre also plays a part. Hydrolysis occurs

    both in th e dyebath and in the internal water phase, but for the

    purpose of this discussion the latter effect can be shown to be

    minimal. Simultaneous reaction

    of

    the dye with the fibre and

    diffusion

    of

    the dye within the fibre can be accommodated by

    applying

    a

    simplified Danckwerts’ equation

    44) i,n

    which the

    efficiency of fixation E, defmed as the ratio of th e rate of reaction,

    dfldr, to the rate of hydrolysis, dhldt, is given by

    where

    [ D ] F

    s the con stant surface dye concentration,

    [Ills

    is the

    dye concentration in the dyebath,

    Z

    is the previously mentioned

    reactivity ratio, [C-] is the concentration

    of

    ionised hydroxyl

    groups in the cellulose and KH

    is

    the bimolecular hydrolysis

    constant. The apparent argument therefore is that the prime

    factor determining the efficiency

    of

    fixation is the ratio

    [ D ] F / [ D ] , ,

    the substantivity ratio. The diffusion coefficient, D, and the

    reactivity ratio have only minor effects,

    as

    d o

    pH

    conditions.

    The last-named play

    a

    secondary role since the hydroxyl-ion

    concentration i n th e external phase

    ([OH -I,,)

    influences the value

    of [C-1.

    Strictly, this hydroxyl-ion concentration is related to the

    hydroxyl-ion concentration within the internal aqueous phase

    and the situation is in practice more difficult to interpret.

    Changing the pH

    of

    the dyebath will cause

    a

    more

    or

    less

    negative potential to develop at the substrate surface and,

    where the surface potential becomes more negative, mutual

    anionic repulsion between the surface and dye anion will cause

    the value of

    [D]F

    to decrease.

    Assuming that the dyebath

    concentration is constant, the substantivity ratio will also

    decrease. This effect, however, can

    be

    mitigated by increasing

    the pH, which causes an increase in the diffusion coefficient.

    Fro m a practical point of view, therefore, any process that leads

    to a high degree of exhaustion

    of

    the dye will tend to give

    a

    high

    substantivity ratio and consequently improve the overall efficiency

    of the dyeing operation. It is interesting to observe 46) that the

    influence

    of

    urea in improving the efficiency

    of

    reactive dyeing

    cannot be due solely to an increase in dye solubility, since this

    effect would reduce the substantivity ratio where the amount

    of

    bonded dye

    [ D ] F

    s unchanged. Improved efficiency is therefore

    attrib uted to a n increase in the diffusion coefficient on increasing

    the concentration

    of

    dye in the bath.

    Practical confirmation of the validity of th e modified Danck-

    werts’ equation

    7 )

    cannot be obtained under conditions where

    dye hydrolysis and fixation occur simultaneously. Sumner

    and

    Taylor

    47)

    have attempted to overcome this problem in a

    serni-quantitative way by considering the dyeing behnviour of

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    20

    REVIEW OF PROGRESS IN COLORATION; JONES

    reactive dyes when hydrolysis is at a m inimum. This occurs under

    slightly acid conditions for reactive dyes on cellulose. If, now , the

    dyeing behaviour of dyes containing non-reactive residues but

    similar in structure t o reactive dyes is observed over a ra nge of

    pH values, it can be assumed that the changes in affinity and

    rates of diffusion of these inert dyes will be paralleled by similar

    but theoretical changes occurring with the reactive dyes. The

    affinity and diffusion coefficients of

    t he

    latter can therefore be

    determined over a p H range by extrapolation.

    For

    two out of the

    three dyes examined in this way, calculated values of D increased

    and values of

    [ D ] F

    decreased with increasing alkalinity. In

    contrast, the third dye exhibited a minimum in its D values and

    a ma xi mu m f or [ D l ~ a tH

    I 1 *5 .

    Hydrolysis in the dyebath of dichlorotriazine reactive dyes in

    which

    the

    chromogen is linked to the reactive residue through an

    imino group may no t be a simple second-order reaction b ut may

    be complicated by the presence

    of

    a deprotonated imino form

    (-i;j:)Bxisting as a result of acid-base equilibrium between the

    latter and the imino form (-NH-) itself

    (48).

    The products of

    hydrolysis of each form

    will

    be identical, although the rate

    constants for hydrolysis for each fo rm will differ. These constants

    and the acid-base equilibrium constant cannot be determined

    without a knowledge of the activity coefficients

    of

    each species.

    Products

    of

    activitycoefficientsand rateconstants can, however, be

    approximated by computer processes. When this approximation

    is carried out, the derived activation energies of hydrolysis are

    found

    to

    depend on temperature with a maximum curvature at

    30°C. This illustrates a comm on feature either in the dye struc-

    tures

    or

    in the system as

    a

    whole. Th e observation

    of

    a minimum

    in the mean activity coefficient in solutions

    of

    Orange

    11

    at this

    temperature (49) determined by differential vapour-pressure

    manometry is relevant in this context and may indicate structural

    changes in the aqueous solvent in the vicinity

    of

    t he

    dye anion

    at this temperature.

    More recently, the emphasis in reactive-dyeing theory has

    shifted towards protein substrates and the investigation of sub-

    structures within the protein that can react with the dye. The

    elucidation

    of

    reaction mechanisms is more difficult than with

    cellulose, since reactions are possible with a greater number

    of sites of different types, the possibility of fibre degradation

    is higher and fibre morphology is more complex. Very little

    quantitative information was available until S hore, in an a dm ir-

    able series of papers 50) and adopting the approach previously

    taken for the reaction of dyes with cellulose, examined the r ate

    of

    reaction of a monoch lorotriazine dye with a number of model

    compound s related

    in

    structure

    to

    the amino-acid residues

    in

    pro-

    teins. If it is assumed t ha t the reactivities or dissociation constants

    of

    the groups

    in

    the protein are unaffected by their neighbours

    then their reaction rates and activation energies will be com-

    parable with those of model compo und s in aqueous solutions.

    By such comparison the order of relative reactivity in water-

    soluble proteins is cysteine thiol

    >

    N-terminal amino > histidine

    > imidazolyl, etc., down to lysine amino and serine alcoholic

    groups. This assumes that the availability of

    t he

    groups in the

    protein to the reactive dye is equally as great as their availability

    as model com pou nds in a homogeneous solution, but this

    is

    not

    very likely. By extending the s tudy

    51)

    o include water-insoluble

    proteins of known composition the most important groups to

    react

    were again shown to be the cysteine thiol, the primary amin o

    groups

    of

    lysine and N-terminal amino-acid residues.

    It

    is

    important to note that the thiol groups are reactive over the

    whole pH range, whereas primary amino groups exert an influ-

    ence only under alkaline conditions. Conditions with respect to

    p H

    in

    kinetic a nd therm odynamic studies will differ from those

    adop ted in t he reactive dyeing of cellulose. It is not possible then

    to

    adopt comparative techniques such as those

    of

    Sumner and

    Taylor 47),

    since the dye reacts readily un der n eutral

    or

    slightly

    acid conditions.

    By using

    a

    mixture of hydrolysed and reactive dye and applying

    an equation resulting from a combination of Danckwerts

    equa tion an d Hill s equation for diffusion into an infinite cylinder

    with the condition of a satur ated fibre surface, Shore has shown

    52)

    that under acid conditions the diffusion coefficient of both

    dye species increases with pH . Abov e p H 4.0 eaction of the dye

    with wool predom inates a nd below this p H reactive dye preferen-

    tially hydrolyses. Under neutral conditions the reactivity of the

    dye for a wool substrate was less than the theoretical level,

    suggesting that there m ay be specific chemical hindrance to the

    reaction in the solid phase. A similar observation had been made

    previously in comparing the rate constants for reaction of

    a

    dye

    with a w ater-soluble alcohol an d with cellulose

    (53).

    Independent confirmation that hydrolysis of reactive dyes is

    minimised i n

    the

    pH range

    4-6

    had been given by Lewis and

    Seltzer

    54) .

    In the pad-batch dyeing

    of wool

    at roo m temperature

    with dichlorotriazines under weakly acid conditions, the degree

    of fixation app roach ed unity, particularly in the presence of

    additives such as sodium metabisulphite. It is considered that th e

    high rate

    of

    reaction may be due to th e formation

    of

    thiol groups

    in the wool arising from the reduction of disulphide bonds. It

    may also be ad ded that in the absen ce of reducing agents, under

    acid conditions, protonation of the triazine nitrogen atoms may

    increase the activity

    of

    the dichlorotriazine dye and allow

    increased reaction with un-ionised thiol groups. Simultaneously,

    the hydrolysis reaction would be minimal since a very low con-

    centration of hydroxyl ion would be present.

    The

    specific

    reaction with thiol groups in model compounds and substrates

    requires furthe r investigation.

    CHROME MORDANTING

    Although not usually regarded as reactive dyeing in any sense,

    the chrome mordanting of wool also entails direct chemical

    reaction of the chromium with the fibre. Chromium is usually

    applied as a hexavalent cation, in which form it is able

    to

    diffuse

    into the wool. During application, the effect of heat accelerates

    the reduction to trivalent chromium, probably by the action of

    the substrate. The

    Cr(1II)

    can then react with the wool at

    a

    comparatively low rate. Hartley

    55)

    has considered the possible

    reaction sites, reaction being excluded at amin o, thiol or phenolic

    groups

    56),

    and concludes from pH changes during absorption

    and from spectral data that the ionised carboxyl groups

    in the

    wool

    take part in

    the

    formation of metal complexes.

    This reaction is interpreted in terms

    of a

    prob able first-order

    nucleophilic reaction whereby the presence of at least one

    strongly negative ligand, e.g. sulphate, in a water-saturated

    6-co-ordinated chromium cation facilitates the loss of a water

    ligand. Thi s

    loss

    occurs as the rate-controlling step in the reaction

    by the displacement

    of

    charge from the strongest negative ligand

    to the central metal cation. The resultant penta-co-ordinated

    transition-state entity is then in a sterically favourable orientation

    to react with an ionised carboxyl group in the substrate. In

    support

    of

    this reasoning, the more negative ligand remains

    co-ordinated with the chromium after reaction. Although this

    proposed mechanism still leaves room for 1

    I

    dye-chromium

    complexes to be formed by ligand replacement, the existence

    of

    this type

    of

    complex in wool has never been proved. Th e forma-

    tion of 2:l dyeechromium complexes requires displacement of

    a

    wool-carboxyl-ligand, and furthe r research is necessary.

    High-temperature Dyeing under Anhydrous Conditions

    The process of padding a fibrous material with a dispersion

    of

    a

    non-ionic dye, drying and then heating the treated fibre to

    a

    high (190-220°C) temperature

    for

    a

    short period to produce a

    dyeing is by now familiar. The greatest use of such a process,

    e.g. the Thermosol method, is in the coloration of polyester-

    cellulose mixtures to dye the polyester component. Dyeing occurs

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    THE

    THEORY

    OF

    DYEING

    21

    under high-temperature anhydrous conditions. The mechanisms

    by w hich dye molecules

    are

    transferred from the solid particle

    to

    the substrate have been variously described as particle dissolution

    in the substrate 57),

    a

    partial co ntact mechanism 58)

    or

    an

    evaporation and dye-vapour absorption process

    (59).

    By similar

    but independent experiments Datye 60) nd Sumner

    et al

    61)

    have shown that, on padding and drying, the dye particles and

    solution are preferentially ta ken u p by the cellulose component,

    whereas in the fixation stage the dye

    is

    preferentially absorbed

    by the polyester component. It follows, therefore, that the

    vaporisation

    of

    the dye plays an imp ortant pa rt in the transfer

    mechanism. Contribution s

    to

    the dyeing mechanism by transfer

    of dye across dyed and undyed fibres throu gh sites of contact o r

    by transfer through t he medium

    of

    additives may or may not be

    relatively important.

    Both Sumner

    et

    al

    and Datye have found that dispersing

    agents or migration inhibitors have no effect on the rate of

    transfer. By determining the amount

    of

    dye absorbed when the

    polyester subst rate is placed at various fixed distances from the

    source of dye, an approximately linear relation between the

    amoun t absorbed an d distance is found, from which the amoun t

    absorbed a t zero distance, i.e. w hen th e dye sou rce and polyester

    are in contact, can be extrapolated. Since there is good agreement

    between these extrapolated values and those experimentally

    determined, for a number of disperse dyes over

    a

    range

    of

    temperatures, Sumner

    et al.

    conclude that a single transfer

    mechanism, viz. by vaporisation and absorption of dye vapour,

    is adequate t o explain the amo unt

    of

    dye absorbed. Confirmation

    is given from linear plots

    of

    ln[D]/, where [D]/ is the amount

    of dye absorbed in unit time, against reciprocal temperature,

    It is assumed that the rate of abso rptio n is controlled specifically

    by the rate

    of

    diffusion d[D],/dt of the dye vap our in air. The

    rate is directly related to the diffusion coefficient in air,

    D

    nd

    to the vapour pressure

    of

    the dye

    p

    and inversely related to the

    distance x between source and substrate, i.e.

    . . . 8)

    Sincc In

    D

    is proportional to reciprocal temperature and by

    applying the Clausius-Clapeyron relation between

    p

    and

    T,

    Ean 8 mav be exmessed as

    In(d[D],/dr)

    In

    D

    +

    Inp

    - n x

    In(d[D],/dr)

    In K +

    C

    n x --

    where K,

    C

    and

    N

    are constants and

    L

    is the latent heat of

    sublimation

    of

    the dye at

    a

    total pressure of one atmosphere.

    Plots

    of

    In[rate of transfer] or ln[D]+ at unit time against

    1/T

    should therefore be linear and of negative slope independent of

    x .

    This has been fou nd experimentally to

    be

    the

    case

    even when the

    value

    of x

    is zero. On the other hand, the relation between [D]/

    and

    x

    determined by Daty e

    60)

    as mor e curvilinear and extra-

    polation to

    zero

    distance could lead to results indicative of an

    additional small contribution by a direct contact mechanism.

    Dyeing by application

    of

    unsaturated dye vapour

    to

    both

    polyester and nylon substrates at high temperature has been

    adequately dem onstrated 62). t is of interest t o observe

    5 )

    hat,

    when model comp oun ds such as p-nitroaniline an d azobenzene

    are applied to cellulose acetate by vapour-absorption methods

    in the presence of unsaturated water vapour, the sorption

    equilibrium values decrease as t he con centration

    of

    water vapour

    within the substrate increases. Since sorption occurs under

    equilibrium conditions, the decrease cannot be attributed to a

    reduced rate of dye transfer by th e presence of water vapour, but

    is possibly due to increased competition fo r sites between sorb ate

    and water or

    to

    changes in subst rate structu re influenced by the

    presence

    of

    water. In conventional dyeing, the amount

    of

    water

    present in the substrate cannot be controlled in this way. The

    comparatively high saturation values and their rapid attainment

    obtained in high-temperature fixation or solvent-dyeing processes

    may therefore

    be

    explained by the absence

    of

    water in addition

    to

    the high thermal energy

    of

    both dye and substrate molecules.

    It h as been noted recently 63) hat the total amount

    of

    a

    dye

    in

    a

    mixture absorbed by the substrate under heat-fixation

    conditions can be less tha n tha t absorbed when the dye is applied

    separately and tha t long er fixation times a re required. In view of

    these observations, it is possible that the vapour pressure of the

    dye solid is reduced to that of a more stable polymorph, the

    solid-solid transition taking place more readily

    in

    the presence

    of

    a second vapour component. Th e question of the heat stability

    and the possibility of structural transitions

    of

    disperse dye

    particles under conditions

    of

    high-temperature fixation requires

    furthe r investigation, since n o research has been published in this

    field.

    The Physical State

    of

    Dyes

    in

    Polymers

    U p o this point we have considered t he state

    of

    dyes in solution

    and the kinetics and thermodynamics of dye transfer from the

    dyebath to the substrate. Since this transfer process is dynamic

    in natu re, it is possible that fur ther changes in the physical state

    of the dye molecules in the polymer can take place outside the

    environment

    of

    the transfer medium and more particularly when

    the dyed material is heated, washed or exposed

    to

    light. It is

    generally accepted tha t changes

    in

    colour occurring in the soaping

    of vat and azoic dyeings can be attributed to the formation of

    aggregates within the cellulose and some evidence has already

    been given 36) hat association of vat-dye anions takes place

    within the substrate during dyeing.

    At present, it is not known with any real certainty whether

    disperse dyes in hydrophobic sub strates exist as monomolecular

    dispersions or whether they associate to fcrm large

    or

    small

    aggregates. Giles

    et

    al.

    have drawn attention

    to

    this probleni and

    consider tha t associates

    of

    non-ionic dye molecules are present in

    dyed nylon, polyester and cellulose acetates. Thcy base their

    conclusions on two main arguments. Firstly (64,

    65)

    by measur-

    ing the rate

    of

    fading,

    as

    expressed by changes in optical density

    of

    the dyed subs trate with time when exposed to light, the ord er

    of

    the fading reaction can be classified according to whether the

    rate

    of

    fading changes approximately exponentially or linearly

    with time. Some dyes may fade according to a combination

    of

    these orders of reaction, w hereas other (ano malo us) dyes exhibit

    an initial increase in the optical density

    of

    the dyed film.

    These

    differences in reaction order

    or

    ra te

    of

    fiiding are attributed to

    the presence and growth

    of

    aggregates

    o f

    dyc molecules within

    the

    film

    on exposure to light. Secondly

    6 6 ) ,

    or those dyes con-

    taining two absorpticn bands

    in

    th e visible region

    of

    their spectra,

    the ratio of the molar extinction coefficientsof each band increa-

    ses with increase in dye concentration

    in

    solution. Changes

    in

    the

    ratio are related to changes

    in

    the degree of association as the

    concentration

    of

    dye is varied. F rom similar changes in the spec-

    tra of dyed hydrophobic films arid dyed films exposed to light

    for different periods, it is concluded by analogy that such films

    contain both monomolecularly dispersed and aggregated dye

    molecules and that the average aggregation number increases as

    fading proceeds.

    It has been pointed ou t

    67)

    hat, since the spectrophotometric

    technique used to examine dyed films utilises monochromatic

    light that is partially plane-polarised, changes

    in

    extinction ratios

    may be due to dichroic effects within the

    film.

    It has also been

    observed 26) hat the dichroic orientation factor

    of

    dyed

    filaments increases as the amount of dye present increases, since

    the dye molecules first occupy the least oriented parts of the

    substrate and th e zones

    of

    higher orientation are occupied only

    at higher concentrations

    of

    dye.

    If

    t he

    aggregation number

    of

    the dye increases during fading,

    then there must b e

    a

    contribution to rates of fading from a dye-

    migration mechanism. By studying the change in the dichroic

    orientation factor of dyed polyester films with temp erature, any

    reversible dye migration taking place as

    a

    consequence

    of

    heat

    treatment would

    be

    indicated by

    a

    reversible change in the

  • 8/17/2019 Theory of Dyeing-F. Jones

    8/8

    22

    REVIEW

    OF

    PROGRESS

    IN COLORATION;

    JONES

    dichroic orientation factor. Nakayama e t

    al (68)

    have shown

    that, provided the amorphous polymer structure does not change

    irreversibly, the orientation factor is in fact reversible. It is

    concluded that, even

    if

    dye migration occurs at higher tempera-

    tures, the dye molecule reverts to the same type

    of

    absorption

    site on cooling.

    The view that disperse dyes are at least initially monomolecu-

    larly dispersed

    in

    hydrophobic fibres is favoured by Husy e t al.

    69).

    In

    their more recent experiments they qualitatively show that

    exposure to light of cellulose acetate dyed with an azo disperse

    dye

    in

    which a trans+ rearrangement can take place is

    accompanied by contractions in the dimensions of the substrate.

    With dyes that

    do

    not undergo this phototropic change, the

    dimensions

    of

    the substrate remain unchanged. These results

    indicate a close interaction between dye and substrate molecules

    which is favoured more by

    a

    molecular dispersion than by an

    associated state.

    Conclusions

    A

    reading of this review will show that no new theories of

    dyeing have been postulated and that a comprehensive theory of

    dyeing is still far from reality. In

    a

    recent survey, Valko (70)

    suggests that, whereas thermodynamic studies of dyeing can

    make useful contr ibutions to the general theories ofintermolecu-

    lar forces, diffusion processes and the influenceof parameters such

    as concentration, temperature, electrolyte concentration and

    polymer structure

    on

    these processes remain largely uninvesti-

    gated and would be

    of

    greater relevance to application methods.

    As is shown in this review, however, when equilibrium studies are

    carried out and assessed

    in

    conjunction with the growing amount

    of information

    o n

    the structure of water and aqueous solutions,

    their relevance to dyeing theory should not be underestimated.

    Dyeing theory has been previously retarded by lack of knowledge

    about non-ideal behaviour, but it is now possible, e.g. by differen-

    tial manometry or vapour-pressure osmometry, to determine the

    mean activity coefficients

    of

    dyes in solution. This may be the

    first

    step

    in

    determining activity coefficients of dyes in the

    internal aqueous phase and inthesubstrate. Finally,muchresearch

    is still needed on the heat stability

    of

    dye dispersions and solids

    and on the thermodynamics and kinetics of heat-fixation

    processes.

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