THE THE NEW FALL SLEEVES - Library of CongressThe waist that ls worn wfth this is shell pink...
1
- The waist that ls worn wfth this is shell pink taffeta, with wide Irish lace cuffs and a deep Irish lace collar. All sleeves, no matter what may be their shape or size or previous condition of seivitude, are finished with a little white around the hand. Thi3 vogue for white is very pronounced and while it means expense in the way of lace and laundry bills it is, nevertheless, so pretty that you do not begrudge the money and the trouble. The making of the little lace cuff is now quite as much an industry as the making of the lace collar and the prettiest possi- ble piece of fancy work is the knitting of cuffs and collars to turn over tho new fancy sleeves. Since these wrist bands form so Import- ant a dress adjunct it is not superfluous to describe pair worn by Airs. Stuyve- sant Fish, whose dress is extremely ele- gant always and who is noted for her originality as well as her precision. These cuffs were of white taffeta cut with a point and on top of the wrist over the taffeta there were roses applied and leaves of lace- and ecru tint, around the roses and around the leaves, and border- ing the taffeta cuff there was a catstitch- ing design. Catstitching Is employed more and more and in the decoration of the fall gowns it is very conspicuous. Zibeline dresses, rough and looking very much like camel's hair, are trimmed with stitched bands and between the rows of stitching there ls a trimming of catstitch- ing. Often the bands are catstltched to the gowns. Sleeves are particularly trimmed In this way and cuffs are catstitched or cross stitched and shoulder capes are trimmed in the same way. Lady de Grey, who is th« Mrs. Stuyve- sant Fish of England wears a black satin coat which was admired by Queen Alex- andra. This coat is called the Marie Stu- art, although why It should have received this name no one knows. .It Is cut tight fitting and short like an 'Eton and the front has no lapels, but ls cut away at the throat to show a very wide vest. The distinguishing feature of this coat is its applique. Holes are cut- In it hers and there In Irregular fashion and under these holes are set pieces of white taffeta, and over the white taffeta pfeces there are appllqued lace flowers. The coat ls very much cut up and taffeta ls set un- der all the holes. The description is od- ious, but you will get the idea, '¦-. . . The wrist puffs which are worn with this coat— which should be called th» Lady de Grey coat— for It ls so known to the dressmakers of Paris, are very full and are made of white chiffon. Over the chiffon there are looped bands of whit* lace Insertion; the whole finally comes into a cuff of black satin trimmed with brilliant green embroidery and a brilliant green belt ls worn wltn tills. The Sleeve That Widens. An Immense puff like this would never in the . world fit into the sleeve of any winter coat that was ever -invented and so there is a sleeve which is especially made for wearing over such, a waist as this.. , The sleeve which ls a coat sleeve la small at the shoulder, but -widens Ulc» a. cornucopia; at th« hand It ls immense. There is a delidously old fashioned look to this sleeve, for it ls lined and padded and the very latest touch of daintiness shows it filled with sachet powder, so that as my lady waves her hand at you. you get the delicate odor of her favorite scent. • • - . For afternoon the ~ knife plaited sleev* ls very good. This sleeve is laid Incount- less plaits at the shoulder and the lams plaiting is preserved at the wrist. Be- tween the shoulder and the wrist .there is, of course, a great shapeless puff which somehow takes a certain grace of its own. The pointed lace cuff with a sharp point which comes to the knuckles will be very much In evidence. It ls sometimes two fingers wide and the point reaches quite to the finger tips. The cuff is tight around the wrist, with Its long point coming; down to the fingers. If you have a pair of lace cuffs you can give them a touch of great elegance by embroidering the lace in Russian fash- Ion. Take the most brilliant - silks you can find with green predominating and work regardless of the pattern of the lac» embroidery and design. Be sure that you have a tree or two In the pattern and a wolf, for the wolf embroidery ls to be very smart this year. Russian Embroideries. There ls every indication that the na- ture of embroidery willchange, for It has too long borne a certain conventional pat- tern. In fact, the rose and the rose leaf, the daisy* and pansy and the dear little designs have begun to cloy a little upon the jaded senses and one longs for some- thing new in the world of art embroidery, and this will be satisfied in the animal designs. 'You will see a wolf with a pack >f hounds in pursuit. A horse will fol- .ow, all racing - through the woods, and this will be used for the front of a tunio. or, Ifit is done very small, it will deco- rate the bust of the gown. - There is a sleeve which is very new In- deed and it is to be worn upon house gowns. It ls two yards wide at the wrist and as small as can be made at the shoul- der. The widening of the sleeve Is neces- sarily abrupt to get this immense fullness at the wrist. The sleeve Is bordered with white lace which falls over the hand. * Nothing pret- tier for a breakfast gown could be Im- agined than this and it will be a feature of the French house dresses. The making of the automobile coat. ¦• that-it can be worn over the new sleeves of winter, calls for a distinct art of th» dressmaker. Three new sleeves have com* In; one is a coat sleeve which ls of course wider at the wrist than at the top aiid which has a big velvet cuff. The cuff sets out like a Robespierre cuff and is verv heavy. This auto ls three- quarter length and ls made of winter melton. It is In a shade of automobile red. but could be made In yellow green with black : stitchlngs and bands. Another coat, also . an auto, which la built for wearing over fancy shirt waists has the full sleeve, but it Is very wide at the hand and is built without a cuff It Is trimmed with a stitched band. Tha coat is an automobile green; which Is al- most s. pea green, and the sleeves are lined with black satin. New Auto Colors. • There Is a new blue in town and Itla called automobile blue. It ls a little paler than a cadet blue and it is Inthree-quar- ter length with a box plait in the front and one in the back. The sleeves are something like leg of mutton sleeves, for they are tight at the top and they are- brought Into a full puff right below the. eir-ow. Below this there is a long tight '". 1he collars of the new auto coat ar« very interesting. There is a deep squara sailor collar slightly shaped in the front, •£?^ th £ ba wK ls b °r dered wlth a stitched band of doth. There is another sailor- •SgS&*WV9-4S&J2j£i? back Sa^| • pieces were Joined with catstlchlng, very narrow, and in black silk. Cloth of silver and cloth of gold were put together in strips, and button hole .stitched, while narrow lace, very delicate, was laid over the whole. Lace is so decided in tone that one for- get? to look at its reality. The term "real lace" seems to have gone - out and one looks not for the "real" lace, as once un- derstood, but for lace that is artistic and adapted to the needs of the garment on which It is to be worn. There are mor9 and more of these laces appearing and you can get something for every purpose to which you may desire to put lace. While it is a season of change it is also one of thankfulness, for there is a pretti- ntss about the new sleeves which dresses up the waist and secures a certain style, women who have always been extremely p.aln in figure are now looking dressy, al- most picturesque, and it is all due to the new sleeves. Rules in Making Sleeves. In the vernacular of the dressmaker each sleeve has a name, but to the ama- teur the sleeves are fancy ones, each dif- fering from the other in some fashion. And here are the rules for the amateur to go by, or what may be called the guld- shfevts f0I> the maklng of the new All sleeves are in two materials at least, ana many are in three or four. The outer or upper material ls the heavier one, while the lower or under ma- terial is of lighter grade. .Lace, gimp, silk insertion. Persian em- broidery. Oriental passementerie and silks in brilliant metallic hues are used for tha trimmings and, instead of being put on in conventional ways, are arranged 1 ' in de- • cidedly novel methods. A sleeve which ls too long to be a di- rectoire is made of silver silk covered • with a braided design. This sleeve ls not £* tight enough to hug the arm, but is cut " in coat sleeeve fashion, rather large, and below the elbow it is turned back and the * cuff is braided to match the upper sleeve. The cuff ls trimmed with stitched bands of silk. There is ten under sleeve of silver colored taffeta, which ls finished with a lace cuff, which is lined with silver satin. The rest of the waist may be interest- ing:; it is in silver silk, all fancifully braided, and is cut down to a point in the front, while the back ls chopped off. It suggests a directoire coat Just a little, for its collar ls a directoire collar and . th§re is a full'lace vest. The Vivian Sartoris Sleeve. •¦ There is a street sleeve which ls very .popular just now. It is part of an Eton § coat and the Eton is cut off so that it is quite short enough to reveal the* waist underneath. This coat is in the trousseau . of Mrs. Scovel, who was Miss Vivian Sar- lorts. It Is brown satin cloth and the . back ls laid in full box plaits and the front ls cut in the same manner. The back extends only a little below the shoulder b.aae3, giving a certain smart look to the coat. The front is of the same length, just 'over the bust, and the whole coat is lined with shell pink taf- feta. Mrs. Scovel's sleeves are very large and there is a -box plait on top of the shoul- - der. At the elbow the sleeve flares and Is very large around so that it makes an im- who Is ".the dressiest of .the royal girls, wears a pongee colored satin dress, not at all expensive, but Very lively.* Itisia din- ner gown ar.d the skirt describes the clinging Grecian cut, , with .straight front breaJth'and straight side breadths. But the back is full and falls away in a wide sweep, v,: ¦ .. . There Js a hJp yoke of lace and -there are tleeve trimmings of lace put on at the shoulder. In cap fashion with the sugges- tion or- a fullness. .. ¦ . • ; ¦•¦' The sleeves are very tight with an outer sleeve of chiffon, which is fastened around the upper arm with a band of lace. Again at the.^wrist it is fastened with another band of.lace. Between the wrist and the eIb ., 0W . *9 d , ab t ? v < !! ' t there ls an Immensely full bagr'of the chiffon, laid in side plaits and. showing a great fullness- which is brought-. Into something like a- neat ar- rangement by the close little plaitings at the top and at the wrist. . - - . Sleeves can best bk described as. won-' derfuL ' %Vhatever .eccentricities and va- garies they may have taken on the past few years have all been collected and ex- pressed in the new sleeves of fall. The statement that no sleeve can bVout of 6tyle,- ; providing it bag somewhere is not so '?far out of the way. Yet there is a place for the sleeve to bag and a place for it jta be tight and the woman who is making her new sleeves would better -study the distinction and learn. the differ- ence. U^i\. •¦¦...... v •.-.-. A luncheon Bieeve worn by the Duchess of Marlborough Is lovely. Its color was Oh, dear, what can the matter be? Dear, dear, what can th« matter »>?? THAT is the cry of the woman of September as she takes out htr la*t year's fall gown and looks at it. And she doe* not have to study it long before she discovers what the The Sleeve of a Princess. The Princess Margaret of Connaught, matter is. The sleeves are wrong—all wrong. And the worst of It is that they cannot be fixed. The old sleeves must be taken out and cast to the rag bag and new ones put in. That is the oniy way you' can re- juvenate an old gown. But isn't this easier than ' remaking It entirely, and isn't it better than putting in a new vest and a new collar? The Eleeve material need not exactly match the waist, for it can be a lace or a chif- fon or a net. Or it can be silk, if the gown be nilk, combine:! with something else that goes well with the gown. The sleeves of the new gown are of the. color of the gowns, but they are not nec- essarily of the same stuff, and all sleeves have two materials in them. This makes it simple for the home dressmaker who is gcin? to make an old gown look like a newly Imported French creation. The hint which was given early in the summer that by fall there would be a re- turn to the bciloon shoulder has not been realized. Shoulders are trimmed and very much trimmed, but the trimmings are put on flat end in a way that has been called the cap trimming. Little lace shoulder cap* of heavy lace are placed upon the shoulders of satin dresses and on cloth dresses. These caps are fitted and extend down the arm a little, but there is noth- ing of the ruffle about them. ' "^!ack and Its material taffeta. . itJtu hese are possibilities for the woman of mtans. • . , The sleeve was laid in knife p'aits at i he shoulder and the plaits were con- tinued to the very elbow, wh»re - they were suddenly released. This left a very, wide flowing sleeve, 'which bung: full around the lower arm, below the elbow: The Marlborough Slseve. i If you will take a piece of. goods and [knife plait it from the shouluer nearly to the elbow and will release the plaits gradually Just above the eibow, end if ycu will let the sleeve hang full from the wrist, you will get the idea. . The sleeve* of the Duehtss were lined with turquufte blue satin. The outside was trimmed* around .the bottom of tne sleeve' 'with- a narrow band of blue and white passementerie. '¦' • Another Bieeve, somewhat similar, was worn by Miss Cynthia Burke-Roche, the •debutante, .at a luncheon." The sleeve, which was' a tobacco brown taffeta, was tuckeeV downward from the shoulder, with the tucks standing out. ' Below the elbow it was very full and the outside was trimmed with embroidery in green leaves, while the inside was lined with .white taffeta embroidered in the same fashion. Sleeves are not altogether limp. , There is a, certain stiffness of, texture about them .which . keeps, them in form, thus accentuating their size. To get this ef- fect sleeves are made of heavy materials, or if they be of the lighter ones they are lined. V ¦: • " • " * Flowing sleeves are for the most part liiied and in the decoration of the lining there is another- chance for, pretty hand work. ,--.•¦¦..¦ ¦' • ¦ - . ' ¦¦ ¦:.¦ ¦„«. The directoire sleeve will be seen- upt>» some of, the new cloth dresses and.is.al- ways neat and pretty. ':. r In. the coats it is better than in- the house sleeves. A very smart directoire sleeve was made in black silk, flowered with tiny roses, which were put on in prim little wreaths. The sleeves, which were only elbow length, were skin tight and were finished with a wide turn- back cuff of green sating setting out from the arm. Under this , coat was worn a green silk shirt waist with baggy lower sleeves: These when pulled out from un- der the coat sleeve made just -the right fall at the wrist v/Fhw TTato- TrtTnTT^Tigff, .* The. new. sleeves are to be decorated with all the new trimmings. There come stitched bands of zibeline for the making of cuffs.' There are vegetable silk braids, brilliant in their metallic qualities. There are gimps and very pretty silk and metal passementeries. .' ;>"! *.- ¦ v - The | new gimps - and beaded trimmings of all sorts are remarkable for their bril- liancy, i-They Bhow bright j-ose-and gay green and the most- beautiful .blues in sapphire and turquoise. The Oriental and Persian * gimps are remarkable in this way and the . most beautiful trimmings can be obtained for •-' the decoration 1 of sleeves and yokes and for waist decora- tions generally. The embroidered bands are good used Sae-aM^S -.¦' .¦.'.' "".'.¦ j ¦ ¦ . • for ' cuffs / and ¦ for , the heading of puffs. They are done by hand and show a bright coloring . and not a little artistic i taste. These can -be stamped : and embroidered, or; the home, decorator can get up her own design, . copying some well known bordering, or following in the footsteps of Bome of those who have been in the busi- ness of designing. '.:»^/.,r!> > A pair of Persian cuffs resembled In no email degree the crazy quilts of a few years since. Bits of Persian embroidery, none longer than a silver quarter, were pieced together Inirregular shape and the mense ruffling for the arm. Bits of white lace insertion are set in the sleeve and under the insertion there are bits of tur- quoise satin. ' square. The front is cut in sharp notched so that there are three sharp points at each side of the front and a sharp polni on each shoulder. *~"*« THE ¦.•¦f.TTNDAY CALL. 10 THE NEW FALL SLEEVES
Transcript of THE THE NEW FALL SLEEVES - Library of CongressThe waist that ls worn wfth this is shell pink...
-The waist that ls worn wfth this is shell
pink taffeta, with wide Irish lace cuffsand a deep Irish lace collar.
All sleeves, no matter what may betheir shape or size or previous conditionof seivitude, are finished with a littlewhite around the hand. Thi3 vogue forwhite is very pronounced and while itmeans expense in the way of lace andlaundry bills it is, nevertheless, so prettythat you do not begrudge the money andthe trouble.
The making of the little lace cuff is nowquite as much an industry as the makingof the lace collar and the prettiest possi-ble piece of fancy work is the knittingofcuffs and collars to turn over tho newfancy sleeves.
Since these wrist bands form so Import-ant a dress adjunct it is not superfluousto describe pair worn by Airs. Stuyve-sant Fish, whose dress is extremely ele-gant always and who is noted for heroriginality as well as her precision.
These cuffs were of white taffeta cutwith a point and on top of the wrist overthe taffeta there were roses applied andleaves of lace- and ecru tint, around theroses and around the leaves, and border-ing the taffeta cuff there was a catstitch-ing design.
Catstitching Is employed more and moreand in the decoration of the fall gowns itis very conspicuous.
Zibeline dresses, rough and looking verymuch like camel's hair, are trimmed withstitched bands and between the rows ofstitching there ls a trimming of catstitch-ing. Often the bands are catstltched tothe gowns.
Sleeves are particularly trimmed In thisway and cuffs are catstitched or crossstitched and shoulder capes are trimmedinthe same way.
Lady de Grey, who is th« Mrs. Stuyve-sant Fish of England wears a black satincoat which was admired by Queen Alex-andra. This coat is called the Marie Stu-art, although why Itshould have receivedthis name no one knows. .It Is cut tightfitting and short like an 'Eton and thefront has no lapels, but ls cut away atthe throat to show a very wide vest.
The distinguishing feature of this coatis its applique. Holes are cut- In it hersand there In Irregular fashion and underthese holes are set pieces of white taffeta,and over the white taffeta pfeces thereare appllqued lace flowers. The coat lsvery much cut up and taffeta ls set un-der all the holes. The description is od-ious, but you willget the idea, '¦-. . .
The wrist puffs which are worn withthis coat—which should be called th»Lady de Grey coat— for Itls so known tothe dressmakers of Paris, are very fulland are made of white chiffon. Over thechiffon there are looped bands of whit*lace Insertion; the whole finally comesinto a cuff of black satin trimmed withbrilliant green embroidery and a brilliantgreen belt ls worn wltn tills.
The Sleeve That Widens.An Immense puff like this would never
in the .world fit into the sleeve of anywinter coat that was ever -invented andso there is a sleeve which is especiallymade for wearing over such, a waist asthis.., The sleeve which ls a coat sleeve lasmall at the shoulder, but -widens Ulc» a.cornucopia; at th« hand It ls immense.There is a delidously old fashioned lookto this sleeve, for it ls lined and paddedand the very latest touch of daintinessshows it filled with sachet powder, sothat as my lady waves her hand at you.you get the delicate odor of her favoritescent. • • - .
For afternoon the ~knife plaited sleev*ls very good. This sleeve is laid Incount-less plaits at the shoulder and the lamsplaiting is preserved at the wrist. Be-tween the shoulder and the wrist .thereis,of course, a great shapeless puff whichsomehow takes a certain grace of itsown.
The pointed lace cuff with a sharp pointwhich comes to the knuckles willbe verymuch In evidence. It ls sometimes twofingers wide and the point reaches quiteto the finger tips. The cuff is tight aroundthe wrist, with Its long point coming;down to the fingers.Ifyou have a pair of lace cuffs you
can give them a touch of great eleganceby embroidering the lace in Russian fash-Ion. Take the most brilliant
-silks you
can find with green predominating andwork regardless of the pattern of the lac»embroidery and design. Be sure that youhave a tree or two In the pattern and awolf, for the wolf embroidery ls to bevery smart this year.
Russian Embroideries.There ls every indication that the na-
ture of embroidery willchange, for Ithastoo longborne a certain conventional pat-tern. In fact, the rose and the rose leaf,the daisy* and pansy and the dear littledesigns have begun to cloy a little uponthe jaded senses and one longs for some-thingnew in the world of art embroidery,and this will be satisfied in the animaldesigns. 'You will see a wolf witha pack>f hounds in pursuit. A horse will fol-.ow, all racing
-through the woods, and
this willbe used for the front of a tunio.or, Ifit is done very small, it will deco-rate the bust of the gown.
-There is a sleeve which is very new In-
deed and it is to be worn upon housegowns. Itls two yards wide at the wristand as small as can be made at the shoul-der. The widening of the sleeve Is neces-sarily abrupt to get this immense fullnessat the wrist.
The sleeve Is bordered with white lacewhich falls over the hand.
*Nothing pret-tier for a breakfast gown could be Im-agined than this and it willbe a featureof the French house dresses.
The making of the automobile coat. ¦•that-it can be worn over the new sleevesof winter, calls for a distinct art of th»dressmaker. Three new sleeves have com*In; one is a coat sleeve which ls ofcourse wider at the wrist than at the topaiid which has a big velvet cuff.
The cuff sets out like a Robespierre cuffand is verv heavy. This auto ls three-quarter length and ls made of wintermelton. It is In a shade of automobilered. but could be made In yellow greenwith black :stitchlngs and bands.
Another coat, also .an auto, which labuilt for wearing over fancy shirt waistshas the full sleeve, but it Is very wideat the hand and is built without a cuffItIs trimmed with a stitched band. Thacoat is an automobile green; which Is al-most s. pea green, and the sleeves arelined withblack satin.
New Auto Colors.•There Is a new blue in town and Itlacalled automobile blue. Itls a little palerthan a cadet blue and it is Inthree-quar-ter length with a box plait in the frontand one in the back. The sleeves aresomething like leg of mutton sleeves, forthey are tight at the top and they are-brought Into a full puff right below the.eir-ow. Below this there is a long tight
'". 1he collars of the new auto coat ar«very interesting. There is a deep squarasailor collar slightly shaped in the front,
•£?^th£bawK
ls b°rdered wlth a stitchedband of doth. There is another sailor-•SgS&*WV9-4S&J2j£i? back Sa^|
• pieces were Joined with catstlchlng, verynarrow, and in black silk.
Cloth of silver and cloth of gold wereput together in strips, and button hole
.stitched, while narrow lace, very delicate,was laid over the whole.
Lace is so decided in tone that one for-get? to look at its reality. The term "reallace" seems to have gone
-out and one
looks not for the "real" lace, as once un-derstood, but for lace that is artistic andadapted to the needs of the garment onwhich It is to be worn. There are mor9and more of these laces appearing andyou can get something for every purposeto which you may desire to put lace.
While it is a season of change it is alsoone of thankfulness, for there is a pretti-ntss about the new sleeves which dressesup the waist and secures a certain style,women who have always been extremelyp.aln in figure are now looking dressy, al-most picturesque, and it is all due to thenew sleeves.
Rules inMaking Sleeves.In the vernacular of the dressmakereach sleeve has a name, but to the ama-
teur the sleeves are fancy ones, each dif-fering from the other in some fashion.And here are the rules for the amateurto go by, or what may be called the guld-
shfevts f0I> the maklng of the newAll sleeves are in two materials at least,
ana many are in three or four.The outer or upper material ls the
heavier one, while the lower or under ma-terial is of lighter grade..Lace, gimp, silk insertion. Persian em-broidery. Oriental passementerie and silks
in brilliant metallic hues are used for thatrimmings and, instead of being put on inconventional ways, are arranged 1
'in de- •
cidedly novel methods.A sleeve which ls too long to be a di-
rectoire is made of silver silk covered• with a braided design. This sleeve ls not£* tight enough to hug the arm, but is cut"in coat sleeeve fashion, rather large, andbelow the elbow itis turned back and the*cuff is braided to match the upper sleeve.The cuff ls trimmed with stitched bandsof silk. There is ten under sleeve of silvercolored taffeta, which ls finished with alace cuff, which is lined with silver satin.
The rest of the waist may be interest-ing:; it is in silver silk, all fancifullybraided, and is cut down to a point in thefront, while the back ls chopped off. Itsuggests a directoire coat Just a little,for its collar ls a directoire collar and
. th§re is a full'lace vest.
The Vivian Sartoris Sleeve.•¦ There is a street sleeve which ls very.popular just now. Itis part of an Eton
§ coat and the Eton is cut off so that itis quite short enough to reveal the* waistunderneath. This coat is in the trousseau. of Mrs. Scovel, who was Miss Vivian Sar-lorts. It Is brown satin cloth and the. back ls laid in full box plaits and thefront ls cut in the same manner. Theback extends only a little below theshoulder b.aae3, giving a certain smartlook to the coat. The front is of thesame length, just 'over the bust, and thewhole coat is lined with shell pink taf-feta.
Mrs. Scovel's sleeves are very large andthere is a -box plait on top of the shoul--der. At the elbow the sleeve flares and Isvery large around so that itmakes an im-
who Is ".the dressiest of .the royal girls,wears a pongee colored satin dress, not atall expensive, but Very lively.*Itisia din-ner gown ar.d the skirt describes theclinging Grecian cut, , with.straight frontbreaJth'and straight side breadths. Butthe back is fulland falls away in a widesweep, v,: ¦ . . .
There Js a hJp yoke of lace and -thereare tleeve trimmings of lace put on at theshoulder. In cap fashion with the sugges-tion or- a fullness. .. ¦ . • ;¦•¦'
The sleeves are very tight with an outersleeve of chiffon, which is fastened aroundthe upper arm with a band of lace. Againat the.^wrist it is fastened with anotherband of.lace. Between the wrist and theeIb.,0W. *9d,ab
t?v<!!'t there ls an Immensely
full bagr'of the chiffon, laid in side plaitsand. showing a great fullness- which isbrought-. Into something like a- neat ar-rangement by the close little plaitings atthe top and at the wrist. . - - .
Sleeves can best bk described as. won-'derfuL'
%Vhatever .eccentricities and va-garies they may have taken on the pastfew years have all been collected and ex-pressed in the new sleeves of fall.
The statement that no sleeve can bVoutof 6tyle,-;providing it bag somewhere isnot so '?far out of the way. Yet there isa place for the sleeve to bag and a placefor it jta be tight and the woman whois making her new sleeves would better-study the distinction and learn. the differ-ence. U^i\. •¦¦...... v •.-.-.
A luncheon Bieeve worn by the Duchessof Marlborough Is lovely. Its color was
Oh, dear, what can the matter be?Dear, dear, what can th« matter »>??
THATis the cry of the woman of
September as she takes out htr la*tyear's fall gown and looks at it.
And she doe* not have to study itlong before she discovers what the
The Sleeve of a Princess.The Princess Margaret of Connaught,
matter is.The sleeves are wrong—all wrong. And
the worst of It is that they cannot befixed.
The old sleeves must be taken out andcast to the rag bag and new ones putin. That is the oniy way you' can re-juvenate an old gown.
But isn't this easier than'remaking It
entirely, and isn't it better than puttingin a new vest and a new collar? TheEleeve material need not exactly matchthe waist, for it can be a lace or a chif-fon or a net. Or it can be silk, if thegown be nilk, combine:! with somethingelse that goes well with the gown.
The sleeves of the new gown are of the.color of the gowns, but they are not nec-essarily of the same stuff, and all sleeveshave two materials in them. This makesit simple for the home dressmaker who isgcin? to make an old gown look like anewly Imported French creation.
The hint which was given early in thesummer that by fall there would be a re-turn to the bciloon shoulder has not beenrealized. Shoulders are trimmed and verymuch trimmed, but the trimmings are puton flat end in a way that has been calledthe cap trimming. Little lace shouldercap* of heavy lace are placed upon theshoulders of satin dresses and on clothdresses. These caps are fitted and extenddown the arm a little, but there is noth-ing of the ruffle about them.
'"^!ack and Its material taffeta. . itJtuhese are possibilities for the woman of
mtans. • . ,The sleeve was laid in knife p'aits at
ihe shoulder and the plaits were con-tinued to the very elbow, wh»re - they
were suddenly released. This left a very,wide flowing sleeve, 'which bung: fullaround the lower arm, below the elbow:
The Marlborough Slseve.i Ifyou will take a piece of. goods and[knife plait it from the shouluer nearlyto the elbow and will release the plaitsgradually Just above the eibow, end ifycu will let the sleeve hang full fromthe wrist, you willget the idea.. The sleeve* of the Duehtss were linedwith turquufte blue satin. The outsidewas trimmed* around .the bottom of tnesleeve' 'with- a narrow band of blue andwhite passementerie. '¦' •
Another Bieeve, somewhat similar, wasworn by Miss Cynthia Burke-Roche, the
•debutante, .at a luncheon." The sleeve,which was' a tobacco brown taffeta, wastuckeeV downward from the shoulder, withthe tucks standing out.
'
Below the elbowit was very full and the outside wastrimmed with embroidery in green leaves,while the inside was lined with .whitetaffeta embroidered in the same fashion.
Sleeves are not altogether limp.,Thereis a, certain stiffness of, texture aboutthem .which . keeps, them in form, thusaccentuating their size. To get this ef-fect sleeves are made of heavy materials,or if they be of the lighter ones theyare lined. V ¦: • "
•" *
Flowing sleeves are for the most partliiied and in the decoration of the liningthere is another- chance for,pretty handwork. ,--.•¦¦..¦ ¦' • ¦
-. ' ¦¦ ¦:.¦ ¦„«.
The directoire sleeve willbe seen- upt>»some of,the new cloth dresses and.is.al-ways neat and pretty. ':.rIn. the coats it isbetter than in- the house sleeves. A verysmart directoire sleeve was made in blacksilk, flowered with tiny roses, which wereput on in prim little wreaths. The sleeves,which were only elbow length, were skintightand were finished with a wide turn-back cuff of green sating setting out fromthe arm. Under this ,coat was worn agreen silk shirt waist with baggy lowersleeves: These when pulled out from un-der the coat sleeve made just -the rightfall at the wrist
v/Fhw TTato- TrtTnTT^Tigff,.* The. new. sleeves are to be decoratedwith all the new trimmings. There comestitched bands of zibeline for the makingof cuffs.' There are vegetable silk braids,
brilliant in their metallic qualities. Thereare gimps and very pretty silk and metalpassementeries. .' ;>"! *.- ¦ v-
The |new gimps-and beaded trimmings
of all sorts are remarkable for their bril-liancy, i-They Bhow bright j-ose-and gaygreen and the most- beautiful .blues insapphire and turquoise. The Oriental andPersian * gimps are remarkable in thisway and the.most beautiful trimmingscan be obtained for •-' the decoration 1 ofsleeves and yokes and for waist decora-tions generally.
The embroidered bands are good used
Sae-aM^S -.¦' .¦.'.' "".'.¦ j¦
¦ . •
for'cuffs / and ¦for , the heading of puffs.
They are done by hand and show a brightcoloring .and not a little artistic itaste.These can -be stamped :and embroidered,or; the home, decorator can get up herown design, .copying some well knownbordering, or followingin the footsteps ofBome of those who have been in the busi-ness of designing. '.:»^/.,r!>
> A pair of Persian cuffs resembled In noemail degree the crazy quilts of a fewyears since. Bits of Persian embroidery,none longer than a silver quarter, werepieced together Inirregular shape and the
mense rufflingfor the arm. Bits of whitelace insertion are set in the sleeve andunder the insertion there are bits of tur-quoise satin.'
square. The front is cut in sharp notchedso that there are three sharp points ateach side of the front and a sharp polnion each shoulder. *~"*«
THE¦.•¦f.TTNDAY CALL.10
THE NEW FALL SLEEVES
