ANNALS OF THE UNIVERSITY OF ORADEAFASCICLE OF TEXTILES, LEATHERWORK

THE RAPPORT OF CLOTHING’S PRODUCTS PROPORTIONS AND HUMAN BODY

Phds .Vladlen Babcinetchi, Prof. phd. Ing. Stan Mitu , Phds Ala Dabija

Technical University “Gh.Asachi” of Iasi ,Faculty of Textiles-Leather and Industrial Management

Vladlen Babcinetchi , vbabcinetchi@tex.tuiasi.ro

Abstract: The use of the effectuated studies in the domain of anthropometry sustains a fundamental element in the constructive design of clothing. The dimensions of the human body are used for particular characterization, as well as for establishing vital statistics upon the physiological evolution of mankind. The measurements ascertain the anthropometrical points on which it can be established usefull proportions in many areas of activity.In the current paper the authour studied the projection of clothing , discovering a proportioning method relyed on anthropometrical points.Key words: : points, proportions , projection , anthropometrism, design

1. INTRODUCTION

Nowdays, the textile production has an important role in the mass consumption’s sphere, on which it can be identified an active process of generating new production structures .Various firms, factories and companies have fulfilled clothes for the wide public, as well as for paticular purpose( miliraty equipments, uniforms and other) , certifying the existence of many specialized workshops that execute individual oders.The series production itself, along the retail market’s requirements has entailed an advanced technology in the companies,the producers’s attention was concentrated on making high quality products. These aspects have determined the use of a high qualifyed personnel for using the new technology, also to quicken creating .The harsh competition of this specific domain of clothing design strongly requires a high level criteria of the products , because of the many specialists that work in designing , engineering, chemistry, anthropometry.The character of the produsctis is diversified depending on their destination , the primary level in designing is to analyse the anthropometrical data base , the technic, aesthetic,qualitative details.The series production depends a lot on the fashion’s fluctuations , reaction that impower designers in establishing their own production rhythm and the entire aspect af the clothes.The variety of clothing products is always diversifying owing to the new types of materials, technologies and , implicitly, modern aesthetic criteria.

2. THE DESIGN OF CLOTHING PRODUCTS BASED ON ANTHROPOMETRICAL POINTS

2.1 The proportioning of clothing on human figure (11 pt, bold)

The human figure has always been the main study object for different sciences, ever since ancient times . Over the decades these studies diversifyedin the rhythm of human society’s evolution. The anthropometry science , as a branch of anthropology, beside anatomy and the proportion study, offers a substantial volume of knowledge in regarding the physiological evolution of human body.Its dimentions are used for individual characterisation , as well as for establishing statistics on the human race’s evolution, classifyed on age and geographical sections.the measurements effectuated determine

anthropometrical points on which it can be established usefull proportions in vaious domains of work. Understanding that these points mark the extremities of the muscles and of the articulations, using the anthropometrical studies consists a fundamental element in constructive desigh of clothing. From an aesthetic angle , the human characterisation is being realised through the study of proportions , through the relation between the different parts of the body with its unit. .(Fig.1a)

Fig1a. Proportioning the human body

Fig.1b. Proportioning the clothes

In the domain of artistical creations had appeared over the time proportional systems and specific canons , which varies depending on the making technique . So , the Policlet’s seven heads canon, the Praxiteles’seight heads , the Durer’s canons or the Le Corbusier’s Modulator , all these express different visions , used till today in many artistic compositions, architectural projects and clothing design (Fig.1b)

Fig.1c Fig.1 d

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ANNALS OF THE UNIVERSITY OF ORADEAFASCICLE OF TEXTILES, LEATHERWORK

Beginning by proportioning the height of the body into eight equal segments,using as a module the height of the head,lines of the knee , the pelvis, waistline, breasts and shoulders will be underlined , all these are fundamental points in designing clothes, supporting the shoulders and the waistline.These exemples from the figures1b, 1c, 1d, 1e represent an elementary method of construction , the clothing’s shapes and the sizes being established mainly by the confort factor.Using the given proportions , clothes are obtained whom dimentions varies by its destinations (Fig.1d , Fig.1e), also the particular aspects of the human body(Fig.1c- the length of the trousers). After that, a complex design is instaled , using the advanced study proportion , or simultaneitly different methods of construction.Therefore, the assembly shape of the costume can correspond the human figure , as well as to many elements naturally and geometrically inspired , so the clothes could be classifyed into ,,sculptural,, and ,,decorative,, . The sculptural figures point out the shape of the human body , in this case are underlined the qualities and the anatomical disproportions .These figures are characterised through their volumetric expressivity and their lateral contour.The decorative figures hide the natural line of the human body , because of the optical deformations and the compositional details , which are completely detached from the figure. In this case the clothes will sustain the base on the shoulders.

Fig.1e

The process of constructive design of clothing contains the final form of the assembly (the figure), the outline of the object’s details as well as the achievement of the volumetric elements in the space and relating them with the \human figure .During this process the functionality and the resistance of the costume is very important, also the entire structure that reflects the scientific, technical and aesthetic level of the society.

2.2.Results and work methods

Designing clothes requires a real anthropometrical data base , which achieve the standardized dimensions of the design.Also, to sustain the aesthetic function of the designed objects, the artist uses proportions, geometrical compositions, various types of materials and accessories.By studying different proportion studies , we can notice the presence of the golden rapport in most of the relations between the human body’s elements.This rapport, using Fechner’s studies, presents a definition of the beauty , where its shapes and the sizes attract the attention of the eye, in the pleasant sense of the

meaning,therefore man identifies the presence of the golden section everywhere in the nature , architecture, art , more or less conscious of this.Analysing the main anthropometrical points of the human figure( fig.2)proportions can be determined , to be applyed in designing clothes, therefore achieving parallels between the created object and the human figure.

Fig.2 –The main anthropometrical points of the human figure

To aesthetically obtain optimum results , the clothes projects themselves on the golden proportion . So, it can be opting for proportioning the piece of clothing in a relation with the body’s entire height or for applying the golden rapport between different pieces of clothing and various of its elements. Certain anthropometrical points ascertain distances that connect in a golden rapport. Its corresponding points will be marked on the clothes with regular and staple buttons, or other accessories, to create interest spots into the composition of the costume.Also, certain distances and relevant segments used to express the golden section will be marked through stitches and handpockets .(Fig 3a ,Fig.3b, Fig.4) It is therefore established a method of projecting the clothing pieces, relyed on anthropometrical points of the human body, so the proportioning could be effectuated in the key of the golden rapport. For the costume expresivity , it is recommended to use various types of contrasts in its composition( line contrasts of the surfaces, volume, colour and structure), the harmony of the assembly being established by the practice of proportion knowledge. The model, the colours, the relations between the shapes, as well as finding naturally the proportional relations of various elements of the clothes depend directly on the talent and the liberty of each artist. This particular method has succeded to attenuate the use of the human body’s elements , also obtained corresponding results of the artistical creations.

3.CONCLUSIONS

The technological and the scientific development of the textile production’s field has conditioned the evolution of an interdisciplinary activity within the brotherhood of clothing designers, a task which requires solid knowledge from various domains of activity.The current paper analyses the resemblances between anthropometry and the study of proportions, making a contribution in the field of constructive design of clothing .The conclusions of the study will be used mostly in individual creations,intended for specialized workshops which fulfill few orders.In regarding the mass production

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ANNALS OF THE UNIVERSITY OF ORADEAFASCICLE OF TEXTILES, LEATHERWORK

the marking of anthropometrical points on clothing will disappear ,for not corresponding to the dimensional standards. The golden proportions of the clothes will remain in use , to try idealizing the common human being.

Fig.3a Fig.3b Fig.4

4.REFERENCES

[1]Stan Mitu ,Mihaela Mitu –“The technological concepts of clothing design” , vol.1 , Edited by “Gh.Asachi” ,Iasi , 1998, ISBN 973-9178-59-6

[2] Emilia Filipescu – “Antropomorphological guide lines in designing man clothes” , Edited by “Performantica” , Iasi , 2003,ISBN 973-7994-27-2

[3]H.E.Timerding – “The golden section” , Edited by URSS, Moscow , 2008, ISBN 978-5-397-00006-2