The O'Hara Designs Portfolio for the Australian Wool Fashion Awards 2010

8/3/2019 The O'Hara Designs Portfolio for the Australian Wool Fashion Awards 2010

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The Australian Wool Fashion Awards

Portfolio for Entry 0412Entry Names: Kash and Clare OHara

Entry Number: 0412

Entry Section: Section Four- Woven. An outfit for any

occasion using woven wool rich fabric, i.e. race wear, day

wear, suits.

Judging Criteria

Technical skills - garment assembly and construction- 50%

Design Skills - creativity, visual impact - 45%

Portfolio - inspiration, presentation suggestions - 5%


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Contents

Chapter 1: Inspiration ....................................................................................................................................................................................................................................4

Brief ............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................4

Theme .........................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................5

Colours ........................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................6

Race wear inspiration .................................................................................................................................................................................................................................7

i) Race wear fashion dos ...........................................................................................................................................................................................................7ii) Race wear fashion donts ........................................................................................................................................................................................................7

Australian racing style icons in black and white .........................................................................................................................................................................................8

Fashions on the Field entrants .................................................................................................................................................................................................................10

Style icon- Coco Chanel ............................................................................................................................................................................................................................11

Designer inspiration- Catwalks .................................................................................................................................................................................................................12

Boater hats ...............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................15

Gloves .......................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................16

Chapter 2: Fabric Construction....................................................................................................................................................................................................................17

Fabric content ...........................................................................................................................................................................................................................................17

Chapter 3: Garment Construction ...............................................................................................................................................................................................................18

Design sketches ........................................................................................................................................................................................................................................18

Patterns ....................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................22

Cutting ......................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................23

Sewing ......................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................24


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Chapter 4: Final Design ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................27

Final Design ..............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................27

Chapter 5: Resources used for research......................................................................................................................................................................................................28

Websites...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................28

Magazines ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................29

Newspapers..............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................29

Books ........................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................29


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InspirationMy Design Brief: To create a womans race wear outfit made from woven wool fit to win

the Myer Fashions in the Field at the Sydney Autumn.

Whenever I sit down to start designing a particular garment or an outfit, I always look at

the design brief or I create my own so that it gives me something to work towards. In

this case, since it is a competition, the design brief was very broad Section Four-

Woven. An outfit for any occasion using woven wool rich fabric, i.e. race wear, day

wear, suits. This is great because it allows me to get really creative and set my own

brief within that.

BriefMy Design Brief: To create a race wear outfit, made from woven wool, fit to win the

Myer Fashions in the Field at the Sydney Autumn Carnival.

After reviewing the criteria for the Australian Wool Awards as well as the criteria for the

Fashions in the Field at the Golden Slipper Festival 2010, I wanted to create an outfit

that epitomises style, sophistication, originality and elegance. I wanted to design a

fashionable cutting edge dress with a jacket so it is appropriate for autumn racing as

well as a wool or felt hat (straw hats are not appropriate for autumn racing), gloves and

stockings that all tie in with the theme of the design.

Before looking for inspiration I need to be specific in a theme and colours so it gives me

a direction to where I am going.

Chapter 1: Inspiration


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Theme

I have decided on a nautical inspired autumn/ winter look for my race wear design. I chose

an autumn/ winter carnival look because its most appropriate when designing an outfit

from wool.

I chose a nautical look because it has a classic and timeless appeal. Moving the style into a

sophisticated direction broadens the allure of the nautical trend, working for youth as well

as a more mature market which is what race wear is about.

The nautical trend is a trans-seasonal and extremely wearable look. It's one of those rare

trends that transcends ages and markets, looking great when dressed up into a classic race

wear look. It has been prevalent in a lot of recent runway shows for both Spring/ Summer

and Autumn/ Winter, and I want to take this trend and create my own designs.


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Archetypal monochromatic tones range from flawless black, and warm or cool greys to purest white.

PANTONE Black C

PANTONE Black 4C

PANTONE Black 6C

ColoursI decided on a black and white colour scheme.

One of the key Autumn/ winter 2010 colour palettes taken from Fashion forecasting website WGSN is black, grey and white. Black and white always looks

stylish, sophisticated, and classy and is often seen in nautical inspired looks. These colours are often worn by the winners of the Fashions on the Field too.

Outer: White with black trimmingsInner: Black and white stripes and a black and white patterned fabric.


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Race wear InspirationTo truly understand race wear looks, it is important to look at the history of

womens fashion at the races and to look at the traditions that have stayed in

these looks over the years. One clearly evident tradition is a woman has always

worn a hat to the races. In recent times this has extended to fascinators and

headwear but in my design I wanted to go back to the early tradition of a hat.

Other traditions for dressing for an Autumn/ winter carnival have been women

have always covered their shoulders by either wearing a dress with a sleeve or a

jacket over the top of their dress or skirt and top. Women have always worn

gloves and stockings with closed toed shoes too.

To create a perfect race wear look I must also look at whats appropriate and

whats not and after reviewing the fashions on the field criteria, looking at the AJC

dress regulations, looking at past winners of fashions on the field, looking at racing

style icons, and using my own tuition, I have created my own list of dos and

donts for designing a race wear look.Race Wear Fashion dos for designing.

Design a dress or a skirt and top (covered

shoulders for Autumn/ winter). Pants, shorts

or jeans are definite NO.

Design an outfit that will be flattering on a

womans body but still sophisticated. Opt for a

knee-length style, or an empire-line. You can

get away with a shorter dress if youre covered

up top i.e. showing your boobs and legs is toomuch!

A Hat is a must. Wool or felt is a must for

autumn/ winter, not straw.

Gloves are a must.

Stockings and closed toes shoes are best for

autumn/ winter looks at the races.

And donts.

No lycra or sequins!!

(The Australian

Wool Awards have

set the criteria to

make the garment

at least 60% wool so

this helps with

deciding on

materials)

No micro-minis.

Dont use your

everyday bag or any

big handbags- opt

for a stylish clutch or

a little purse.


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Australian Racing Style icons in Black and WhiteTo gain further inspiration for my design, I looked at some of the famous Australian women racing style icons. The following photos are

pictures of these women in black and white outfits.

Kate

Waterhouse

Megan Gale


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Jennifer

Hawkins

Gai and Kate Waterhouse

Miranda

Kerr Emma Freedman

and Zoe Foster

Jennifer

Hawkins

Megan Gale


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Fashions on the Field EntrantsTo gain further inspiration for my design, I looked at some of the fashions on the

field entrants and winners.


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Style Icon- Coco ChanelWhen designing any garment from wool, its hard not to look at Coco Chanel. Coco Chanel is the perfect style icon for this design brief as she loved creating beautiful

and stylish garments from wool, and she loved black and white. She always created garments that were stylish, feminine, sophisticated and always unique. A lot of her

garments looked the same but it was in the detailing or the fabric choice that made each piece beautiful and unique.

Coco Chanel also loved the nautical inspired look and loved completing an outfit with hats and gloves.


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Designer Inspiration- CatwalksWhen creating a new garment or a new outfit, I always look to the trends on the catwalks too which helps to design a fashion forward outfit.

There are a lot of current designers who have been using black and white in their colour scheming and using wool fabrics. There has also been a return to classic styles

and femininity with a modern edge.

Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel
http://www.wgsn.com/members/retail-talk/features/rt2005dec15_015154?image=/public/images/content/retail-talk/rt015154_19.jpg&caption=Chanelhttp://www.wgsn.com/members/retail-talk/features/rt2009oct20_089615?image=/public/images/content/retail-talk/rt089615_22.jpg&caption=Chanel


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Valentino

Givenchy Burberry

ChristianDior

Armani


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Jean-Paul Gaultier

ZacPosen

Christian Lacriox

KarenWalker


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Marc Jacobs

Boater HatsTo complete a race look it is important to have the right hat.

The boater makes a welcome comeback as a hot accessory option for women because of new shapes and detailing. The Boater hat is a trans-seasonal hat

which ties in perfectly with a nautical inspired wool outfit, and the classic look and style the boater projects is perfect for the races.

I wanted to look at the summer straw boater hats for inspiration but the main source of inspiration will be the felt or wool boater which were both seen in

the Marc Jacobs and Chanel Autumn/ Winter 2009/2010 runway shows.

Chanel


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GlovesTo complete an autumn/ winter race look it is important to wear gloves.


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Chapter 2: Fabric Constructionabric Construction

Garment Fabric Content

Outer: The dress and jacket is made from 100% wool woven into a textured cross waffle weaved design. The wool was already woven and purchased from the

Fabric Shop, Surry Hills, NSW.

Fusing: A medium weight woven fusing was used. This was purchased from E & M Greenfields, Surry Hills, NSW.

Trimmings: A 7mm black nylon braid was used for the trimmings. This was used to create stripes and give the garment further detailing and more of a nautical

look. This was purchased from E & M Greenfields, Surry Hills, NSW.

Fabric Lining


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Chapter 3: Garment ConstructionGarment ConstructionDesign Sketches

To create the perfect dress and jacket to achieve the design brief of a race wear outfit made from

wool, I took in all the inspiration and began to sketch some ideas. A number of sketches were

drawn and I then chose the design that I thought incorporated a nautical theme and was true to

the autumn/ winter season, as well as being a classic design that would look great when made of

wool. The final outfit (dress and jacket) as well as the hat and gloves are all my own original

designs.

I always like to sketch ideas down but my designs always evolve as start to make the garment.

Some of myinitial

sketches


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Some of my initial sketches


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Some of myinitial

sketches


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Sketch ofdress


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Patterns

Garment: Once the final designs for the garment were finalised, I created the patterns using Gerber. I made the pattern to a size 10 but I made some alterations

to the pattern as I went along.

Hat: I purchased a straw boater hat then traced around it to create a pattern for the hat.


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Cutting

Garment: The fabric was laid out on my table and I then pinned the

pattern to the fabric before cutting out each piece individually.

Pinning the binding to sleeve pieceCut garment pieces


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Sewing

Jacket:

Main fabric and lining fabrics were cut

Medium weight woven fusing was applied using an iron to fuse the fabrics together. This gives the fabric some stiffness and gives the garment

a structured look in particular with the collar and cuff.

1.5cm seam allowance was used on all seams.

7mm nylon braid was pinned, stitched and sewn to the sleeve heads, cuffs and around collar. The braid was secured using topstitching.

The sleeve head was gathered and set into the armhole.

Main and lining fabrics were sewn right sides together, leaving a small panel on the jacket to turn through.

Inner sleeve lining was slipstitched around the cuff.

Hook and eye was applied to the centre front.

Sewing the jacket A sleeve of the jacket


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Dress:

Main fabric and lining fabrics were cut.

1.5cm seam allowance was used for all inner seams.

Darts were sewn.

Front and back panels were joined together at shoulder seam.

The skirt piece was sewn around the bottom of the back panel.The shell of the garment was placed on the mannequin and left to hang for a period of 24hours to allow the fabric hemline to drop to an even level. After

assessing the skirt hemline the fabric had dropped, so the piece was cut around the base of the hem to level out the hemline.

7mm nylon braid was sewn around the hemline of the front panel in 3x layers.

Lining was placed inside the dress and pin-stitched around the outer shell.

Bias binding was sewn around the neckline and outer perimeter of the fabric.

Roulette loops and buttons were attached to Back Panel (which fastens to the front)

Button was attached to CB of Front panel.

Sewing the dress


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Gloves:

Gloves were purchased from MYER

7mm nylon braid was sewn around the knuckles of the gloves in 2 rows

Hat:

Straw hat was purchased from EBAY

Main wool fabric was cut to size to cover hat.

Striped lining was cut and sewn to the underside of the hat.

2x rows of 7mm nylon braid were applied around the crown of the hat.

Bias binding was sewn around the perimeter of the hat

Gloves The boater hat with the under lining


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Chapter 4: Final Design


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Resources used for researchWebsites

www.wgsn.com

www.net-a-porter.com

http://www.racingfashion.com.au

http://theslipper.com.au/festival_race_days_events/myer_fashions_on_the_field.html

www.tawfa.com.au

www.ragtrader.com.au

www.ajc.com.au

www.fashiontrendsetter.com

www.fashioninformation.com

Chapter 5: Resources Used for research
http://www.wgsn.com/http://www.wgsn.com/http://www.net-a-porter.com/http://www.net-a-porter.com/http://www.racingfashion.com.au/http://www.racingfashion.com.au/http://theslipper.com.au/festival_race_days_events/myer_fashions_on_the_field.htmlhttp://theslipper.com.au/festival_race_days_events/myer_fashions_on_the_field.htmlhttp://www.tawfa.com.au/http://www.tawfa.com.au/http://www.ragtrader.com.au/http://www.ragtrader.com.au/http://www.ajc.com.au/http://www.ajc.com.au/http://www.fashiontrendsetter.com/http://www.fashiontrendsetter.com/http://www.fashioninformation.com/http://www.fashioninformation.com/http://www.fashioninformation.com/http://www.fashiontrendsetter.com/http://www.ajc.com.au/http://www.ragtrader.com.au/http://www.tawfa.com.au/http://theslipper.com.au/festival_race_days_events/myer_fashions_on_the_field.htmlhttp://www.racingfashion.com.au/http://www.net-a-porter.com/http://www.wgsn.com/


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Magazines

Vogue

Harpers Bazaar

Grazia

Madison

Rag Trader

In Style

Newspapers

Essential Style, Sydney Morning Herald

S Sydney Morning Herald

Sunday Life, Sydney Morning Herald

Books

Pattern Making for Fashion Design- Third Edition, by Helen Joseph- Armstrong, Prentice-Hall Inc, 2000

Chanel- Collections and Creations, by Danielle Bott, Thames & Hudson, 2009
http://www.wgsn.com/http://www.wgsn.com/

The O'Hara Designs Portfolio for the Australian Wool Fashion Awards 2010

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