GardenChatter

The Official Publication of Laclede County Master Gardeners

Merry

Christmas Christmas Dinner – Dec. 4th- 6:

December - 2014

Laclede County Master

Gardeners 186 N. Adams Ave. Lebanon

Ph. 532-7126

President

Pam Smith, 417-839-5610

psmith@durhamcompany.com

Vice President

Glennie Kinnett 417- 588-0198

GlennieKinnett03@gmail.com

Secretary

Barbara Thompson 417-533-8148

Treasurer

Don Davis

Newsletter Editor

Robert “Bob” Smith III, 417-532-5783

onevol90@gmail.com

Master Gardeners of Laclede County

186-D N. Adams Ave.

Lebanon, Missouri 65536

Phone: 417-532-7126 •

Fax: 417-532-4587

University of Missouri Extension does not

discriminate on the basis of race, color,

national origin, sex, religion, age, disability or

status as a Vietnam-era veteran in

employment or programs.

Christmas Dinner – Dec. 4th- 6:30 p.m.

Bring a heavy snacks and appetizers

Meat and Drinks furnished by the Extension

Council

Congratulations for the Name Change of the FFA Facility

Mr. Bill Hash, a long-time supporter of Lebanon FFA and who also contributed the land for the FFA facility

congratulations longtime ag teacher and our 4-H Chief Sam Lower in the renaming of the facility. Sam

shares this honor with Keith Davis who is also a long time Vo-Ag teacher. The building will now be knows

as “The Sam Lower and Keith Davis Learning Center Building”. From all of us at the Extension Office and

Program offer our heartiest Congratulations for this well-deserved great honor.

4-H Float in The Christmas Parade

First Catalog of the Season Arrived in the Mail 11-24-14

December Gardening Calendar

Category Week Activity

1 2 3 4

Houseplants x x x x Water houseplants with tepid water. Cold tap water may shock plants.

x x x x Be sure newly purchased indoor plants are well protected for the trip home.

Exposure to icy temperatures for even a few moments may cause injury.

x x x x Overwintering geraniums like bright light and cool temperatures. Keep soils on

the dry side.

x x x x On cold nights, move houseplants back from icy windows to prevent chilling

injury.

x x x

Holiday poinsettia plants do best with sun for at least half the day and night

temperatures in the 50's or 60's. Keep plants away from drafts, registers and

radiators and let the soil should dry only slightly between thorough waterings. Be

sure to punch holes in decorative foil wraps to prevent soggy soil conditions.

x x x x Hairspray works well to keep seed heads and dried flowers intact on wreaths and

arrangements.

x x x x

If you plan to have a live Christmas tree, dig the planting hole before the ground

freezes. Mulch and cover the backfill soil and the planting hole to keep them dry

and unfrozen. When you get the tree, store it outdoors in a cool, shady, windless

area until the last minute and mulch the roots to prevent cold injury. Don't allow

the tree's roots to become dry and spray the needles with an anti-transpirant to

reduce moisture loss. Set the tree up in your coolest room. Don't keep the tree

indoors for more than one week and plant outdoors promptly.

x x x x

Be sure the root zones of azaleas and rhododendrons are thoroughly mulched.

Any organic material will do, but mulches made from oak leaves, shredded oak

bark, or pine needles are preferred.

x x x Christmas trees hold needles longer if you make a clean, fresh cut at the base and

always keep the trunk standing in water.

x x x Only female holly trees bear the colorful berries. There must be a male tree

growing nearby for pollination, if fruits are desired.

x x x Hollies may be trimmed now and the prunings used in holiday decorations.

Miscellaneous x Apply mulches to bulbs, perennials and other small plants once the ground

freezes.

x

All power equipment should be winterized before storage. Change the oil and

lubricate moving parts. Either drain fuel systems or mix a gas stabilizing additive

into the tank.

x Clean and oil all garden hand tools before storing for winter.

x If you feed rabbits corn or alfalfa, they may leave fruit tree bark unharmed.

Overwintering Geraniums

Geraniums are wonderful, easy-to-grow plants that bloom on and on in the garden all summer. Their

blooms just seem to last forever. And as the weather cools, they usually put on a great show, so it's no

wonder many gardeners want to bring them indoors during the winter and save them for spring. Of all

your outdoor summer bloomers, geraniums will probably make the transition indoors the most

successfully. There are several methods for over wintering geraniums.

What Kind Of Geraniums Can I Save? There are several types of geraniums grown successfully in our area and some are better suited to over

wintering than others. Perennial geraniums (genus Geranium) simply stay out in the garden with all the

other perennials. Another common name for perennial geraniums is Cranesbill. These are also called true

geraniums. All the rest of the geraniums we grow in our area are in the genus Pelargonium. This

grouping includes the traditional zonal (cutting) geraniums as well as Ivy, Scented, Seed and Regals

(a.k.a. Martha Washington). Zonal, Scented, Seed and Ivy geraniums are the most likely to winter

successfully indoors. Regal (Martha Washington) geraniums are difficult to work with. They really

should be considered just a pot crop that provides a breathtaking display of bloom for several weeks.

Storing Them Dormant Often you will read or hear about storing geraniums bare root and dormant in the basement over winter

The success of this method will depend on the place you have to store them. When people had cold

cellars or pump rooms, it worked quite well. The temperatures were cool but it was humid. Most modern

basements are much too dry and too warm. To try this method, dig the plants up before a killing frost in

the fall. Cut the branches back about half way. Remove as much of the dirt from the roots as possible.

You will have to do this carefully, because geraniums are rather brittle. At this point, they were

traditionally hung from the rafters until spring. If you don't have rafters, you can bag them separately in

paper grocery sacks. Leave the sacks open for ventilation. Check on your plants every month of so to see

if they are getting too dry and shriveling. If necessary, spray them with water. If they get so dry the stems

begin to shrivel, take them out and soak them for an hour or two in tepid water. Remove them from the

water and allow their surfaces to dry before putting them back in the paper bags. Plants that have been

over wintered in this manner may take several weeks to begin growing again in the spring. Soak the

geraniums, roots and all, in water overnight before planting. To get an early start, they can be potted up

indoors several weeks before the last frost and transferred into the ground later. When planting directly

outdoors, be sure to wait until after all danger of frost.

Keeping Them Growing

Geraniums do well as house plants if you can provide them with a cool location and lots of light. Dig

them up and pot them just before frost and cut them back. Check the plants over carefully to make sure

they are free of insects or disease. Wintering indoors is stressful, so only take indoors plants that are in

good condition. Water the plant thoroughly when you first bring them in. Geraniums prefer to stay

relatively dry compared to most plants.

Cuttings It is possible to take cuttings instead of bringing in whole plants. A cutting is simply a piece of the

mother plant. For the best success rate, use tip cuttings. Tip cuttings are made by cutting off the last 3-5

inches of a branch. Try to avoid branches that are blooming. Remove the leaves from the lower half of

the cutting and dip the cut end into a rooting hormone. Place the cuttings around two inches deep into a

loose potting soil or vermiculite. For the first few weeks, keep the cuttings in good light, but out of the

direct sun. The potting material should stay evenly moist. After 3-4 weeks, the cuttings will have

developed several strong roots. Cuttings can be rooted in individual pots or several cuttings can be rooted

in one container. After they have begun to root, they will need to be individually potted. When you begin

to see new growth, move them to a cool, sunny location and feed monthly with a water soluble fertilizer

such as Bachman's Excel Gro 15-35-15. If you don't have adequate light indoors, geraniums do very well

under fluorescent or incandescent plant lights. Given enough light, geraniums will develop into well-

branched, strong plants by spring. If light is not adequate, they may tend to grow rather tall and spindly.

Remember, geraniums like it on the dry side.

Next Season Geraniums that have been over wintered can make very satisfactory plants the next season. Those

brought through as cuttings will be completely new, productive young plants, just like those you might

buy in spring. The geraniums you over winter actively growing should be larger plants with heavier

stems. They will bloom almost as much as a young plant. Geraniums that have been over wintered

dormant take several weeks to recover in the spring and often need to be cut back to improve their shape

and productivity. No matter how you over winter your plant, be sure to wait until after danger of a killing

frost before putting them back outdoors.

Daisies in Winter

By Audrey Stallsmith

The idea of daisies that grow on trees during winter sounds like something a wistful gardener would dream up after smoking the wrong plant! Those daisy trees do exist, however, though they flourish only in areas with what we northerners would consider wimpy winters--namely USDA zones 9 through 11.

The idea of daisies that grow on trees during winter sounds like something a wistful gardener would dream up after smoking the wrong plant! Those daisy trees do exist, however, though they flourish

only in areas with what we northerners would consider wimpy winters--namely USDA zones 9 through

honor of Mexican politician and botanist Luis Montana. Some more closely resemble large shrubs than trees, but shrubs with seriously substantial leaves--up to 18 inches across--and

often heavily lobed.

The usually white flowers, which vary from 1 1/2 to 3 inches in diameter, appear in clusters at some point between September and February. They reportedly smell of chocolate, or possibly vanilla, depending on whom you ask. Some people diplomatically assert the fragrance is that of cupcakes. Those flowers often are followed by decorative seed heads made up of chartreuse bracts.

Montanoas are cloud forest trees. The San Francisco Botanical

Garden describes the cloud forest as "occupying mountain ridges from 4000 to 10,000 feet, running from Mexico to Peru

with mild temperatures, plenty of moisture and little variation."

I first stumbled across the genus when someone sent me a Yucatan daisy (Montanoa atriplicifolia) like that below in a trade. (Atriplicifolia means "with leaves like Atriplex, AKA saltbush.") Generally considered a woody vine, it can also be grown as a sprawly shrub. I keep forgetting that it's

supposed to be a vine and cutting it back, which could be why I've yet to see any flowers!

One of the most popular montanoas, the Mexican daisy tree (Montanoa bipinnatifida or "two-pinnated") has deeply lobed leaves and apparently comes in both double and single versions. Blooms of the double type above, sometimes called pompom bush, resemble white chrysanthemums. Some sources hold that it is actually a variation of the "large-flowered" tree daisy (Montanoa grandiflora) pictured in the thumbnail instead. Other varieties likely to be available include the cherry-scented leucantha var. arborescens, whose name means "white-flowered and tree-like" or the massive tubu (Montanao guatemalensis), which we will assume originated in Guatemala.

The tree daisies like rich, well-drained and well-watered soil in full sun, preferably sheltered from wind as their bamboo-like stems break easily. Some of them can survive temperatures down to 20 degrees Fahrenheit, though cold

that severe may kill them back to the ground temporarily.

They should be cut back in spring, to ensure more flowers the following winter, and because they grow rapidly enough to become rangy if not heavily pruned. Some of the tree daisies shoot up so fast that they were once used as annual foliage plants to contribute a tropical look to Victorian landscapes.

Therefore, they can be invasive. The anzac flower pictured above (Montanoa hibiscifolia), "with leaves like hibiscus," has hand-shaped foliage and is considered a weed in both Hawaii and South Africa. For gardeners elsewhere,

however, daisies at Christmas time could be a pipe dream come true!

Photos: The thumbnail photo is by Annie's Annuals and the bipinnatifolia photo by vossner, both from the Dave's Garden PlantFiles. The enhanced hibiscifolia photo is by Forest and Kim Starr, courtesy of Flickr Creative Commons and this license. The cropped and enhanced atriplicifolia photo is by Brent Miller and the seedpod photo by David Midgley, both courtesy of Flickr Creative Commons and this license. The antique image is by M. Smith from a 1907 issue of Curtis's Botanical Magazine, courtesy of plantillustrations.org.

About Audrey Stallsmith

Audrey is the author of the Thyme Will Tell mystery series from WaterBrook Press (Random House) and an e-book of humorous rural romances titled Love and Other Lunacies. In addition to digging up plots--both garden variety and novel--the former Master Gardener writes free articles on plant history and folklore for her Thyme Will Tell site and posts her photos at GardenPhotographs.net . Audrey also designs hay-seedy stuff and nonsense for her Rustic Ramblings Zazzle store, and indulges in mystery novels, apologetics, cryptic crosswords, old lace, beads, and Border Collies. Follow her on Google.

Overwintering Plants Inside the House

By Marie Harrison (can2grow) November 19, 2014

My house has a Florida room. Originally a front porch, it has been enclosed and made a part of the main house. This long, narrow room has wrap-around windows on three sides. The other side opens into the dining room on one end and a music room on the other end. This Florida room, as I call it, offers a sweeping vista of my garden, but it becomes very important to the welfare of some of my plants during the winter. much.

At present, I count some 75 plants overwintering in the heated

comfort of the Florida room. A few of them are permanent residents and serve as floral or horti-décor, as well as air purifiers. My prized Aglaonemas, a beautiful Cherita that blooms in waves throughout the year, and the heart-leaf philodendron (Philodendron hederaceum) and satin pothos (Scindapsus pictus) that decorate the top of the piano in the music room are present year round. The room would be diminished without the presence of the burro’s tail (Sedum morgianum) that drapes gracefully from a pedestal in one corner. Much of my cactus and succulent collection is housed in this room year round.

Added to the collection in December, however, is a room full of plants that were just too pretty to stuff in the overfilled greenhouse with all the other plants that need to be protected from cold weather. Plants line the window sills, cover the surface of every table, and fill every corner of the room. Several days were spent washing plants with the hose, finding drip trays to fit each container, and coverings to protect my furniture and floors. The mélange includes several bromeliads that spent the summer on cypress knee stumps near the entry of the house. They are temporarily planted in pots for overwintering in the Florida room. Bright red-orange spikes or “flaming swords” are emerging on the Vriesia ensiformis and will be showy for months. The “painted fingernails” on the green leaf tips of Neoregelia spectabilis vie for attention. The

Aechmea fulgens discolor is saved from commonness by the leaves that curl just enough to reveal some of the reddish purple undersides. Rounding out the bromeliad display is an assortment Billbergias that for a couple of weeks regale me with iridescent purple, chartreuse, and pink blossoms that hang downward like queens’ tears. Several brightly colored earth stars (Cryptanthus) and assorted Tillandsias round out the bromeliad show. My collection of brightly colored crotons (Codiaeum) was just too pretty to go to the greenhouse where nobody could see them. The large leaves of C. var. pictum are a kaleidoscope of reds, yellows, greens, and pinks, and all colors in between. Some cultivars have leaves that spiral, some have leaves that are so narrow as to be almost threadlike, and some curl back on themselves. Some are interrupted as a leaf blade stops and only the midrib is present for an inch or so, and then the leaf blade continues. ‘Aureo-maculatum’ with its green leaves spotted with yellow are often confused with the similar looking Japanese aucuba (Aucuba japonica). Hanging baskets have been brought inside to decorate four pedestals Amiable Spouse built for me. A sambac jasmine (Jasminum sambac ‘Maid of Orleans’) blooms just enough to keep the room perfumed. A speckled hoya (Hoya carnosa) thrives in its corner, and an Epipremnum that became thick and beautiful under a shade tree this past summer drapes long strands of foliage to the floor. Then, of course, there is the single leaf cutting of a beautiful little cut-leaf philodendron given by a Flower Show School instructor to each student. I look forward to using its leaves in floral design as well as growing it up a totem pole. It has a long way to go, but it is well rooted and on its way. How lucky I am to have such a room for plants during the winter! They keep me from being so starved for greenery and flowers during a time when so few are blooming outside. They refresh my outlook and lift my spirits. Every once in a while about this time of year, I vow to get rid of some of my tropical plants. I never quite manage to do it, though. I like them all too much.

About Marie Harrison

Serving as a Master Flower Show Judge, a Floral Design Instructor, instructor of horticulture for National Garden Clubs, and a University of Florida Master Gardener immerses me in gardening/teaching activities. In addition to these activities, I contribute regularly to Florida Gardening magazine and other publications. I am author of four gardening books, all published by Pineapple Press, Sarasota, Florida. Read about them and visit me at www.mariesgardenanddesign.com.

Recipe of the Month

BREAD & BUTTER PUDDING

6 tablespoons lightly salted butter, softened

6 slices thick white bread

1/3 cup mixed dried fruit, such as golden raisins,

currents, and raisins

2 tablespoons candied peel

3 extra-large eggs

1 1/4 cups milk

2/3 cup heavy cream

1/4 cup granulated sugar

whole nutmeg, for grating

1 tablespoon demerara sugar (or other raw sugar)

PREHEAT the oven to 350°F. Use a little of the butter to great an 8x10-inch baking dish and the remainder to

butter the slices of bread. Cut the bread diagonally into quarters and arrange half of them overlapping in the

prepared baking dish.

SCATTER half of the dried fruit and candied peel over the bread, cover with the remaining bread slices, and

add the remaining dried fruit and candied peel.

WHISK the eggs well in a large pitcher, then mix in the milk, cream and granulated sugar. Pour the mixture

over the bread and let stand for 15 minutes so the bread soaks up some of the egg mixture.

TUCK the dried fruit and candied peel under the bread slices so they don’t burn. Grate a little nutmeg over the

top of the bread, according to taste, and sprinkle over the demerara sugar.

PLACE the dish on a baking sheet and bake at the top of the preheated oven for 30-40 minutes, until just set

and golden brown. Remove from the oven and serve warm.

ONE HOUR YEAST ROLLS

1 cup of warm water

1/4 cup sugar

1/3 cup oil

2 tablespoons yeast

1 teaspoon salt

1 egg, beaten

3 1/3 cup flour

1.) In a large bowl, mix together warm water, sugar, oil and yeast. Let stand for 15 minutes until yeast mixture

is bubbly.

2.) Stir in salt and beaten egg to yeast mixture.

3.) Gradually add flour. Dough will be kind of sticky, but add enough flour until it's manageable. Let dough

rest in the bowl for 10 minutes. I cover mine with a towel. This allows the dough to rise more.

4.) Spray hands with non-stick cooking spray (such as Pam) and form dough into balls. Place balls so they don't

touch on cookie sheet. Let rise for 20 more minutes.

5.) Bake in 375 degree oven for 10 minutes.

6.) Mix 2-3 tablespoons of melted butter with honey (to taste) and brush the top of hot rolls with the honey

butter.

7.) Enjoy these holidays – they are just great with gobs of butter – real butter that is!

Cashiers are adding a ‘cash back’ amount when people check out, even though the

customer did not ask for cash back. The cashier then pockets your ‘cash back’ amount.

When using a credit or debit card, check your receipts before you leave the check-out

line. If you see a ‘cash back’ amount, demand to see the manager. Do not leave the

counter. Make them cancel the ticket, credit your account and ring the entire order

anew — do not take the money. If you take the cash it could trigger an overdraft

charge or a cash advance charge. This is not limited to any one store or chain; it is

happening everywhere, even grocery stores.

10 Interesting Facts about Poinsettias No flower says Christmas like the beautiful poinsettia. Learn a few facts about this traditional Christmas plant.

Poinsettias are part of the Euphorbiaceae or Spurge family. Botanically, the plant is known as Euphorbia

pulcherrima.

Many plants in the Euphorbiaceae family ooze a milky sap. Some

people with latex allergies have had a skin reaction (most likely to the

sap) after touching the leaves. For pets, the poinsettia sap may cause

mild irritation or nausea. Probably best to keep pets away from the

plant, especially puppies and kittens.

Poinsettias are not poisonous. A study at Ohio State University

showed that a 50-pound child would have to eat more than 500 leaves

to have any harmful effect. Plus poinsettia leaves have an awful

taste. You might want to keep your pets from snacking on poinsettia

leaves. Eating the leaves can cause vomiting and diarrhea.

The showy colored parts of poinsettias that most people think

of as the flowers are actually colored bracts (modified leaves).

Poinsettias have also been called the lobster flower and the flame-leaf flower, due to the red color.

Joel Roberts Poinsett introduced the poinsettia plant to the United States from Mexico. Poinsett was a botanist,

physician and the first United States Ambassador to Mexico.

In Mexico the poinsettia is a perennial shrub that will grow 10-15 feet tall.

There are more than 100 varieties of poinsettias available today. Poinsettias come in colors like the traditional

red, white, pink, burgundy, marbled and speckled.

The Paul Ecke Ranch in California grows over 70% of all Poinsettias purchased in the United States and does

about 50% of the world-wide sales of Poinsettias.

December 12th is Poinsettia Day, which marks the death of Joel Roberts Poinsett in 1851.

What's in a Name?

Poinsettias are part of the Euphorbiaceae or Spurge family. Botanically, the plant is known as Euphorbia

pulcherrima.

In Nahuatl , the language of the Aztecs, the Poinsettia was called Cuitlaxochitl (from cuitlatl, for residue, and

xochitl, for flower), meaning "flower that grows in residues or soil."

Today the plant is known in Mexico and Guatemala as ""La Flor de la Nochebuena" (Flower of the Holy Night,

or Christmas Eve).

In Chile and Peru, the Poinsettia is called the "Crown of the Andes".

In Spain the Poinsettia has a different holiday attribution. It is known there as "Flor de Pascua", meaning

"Easter flower".

Poinsettias have also been called the lobster flower and the flame-leaf flower, due to the red color.

Poinsettias received their name in the United States in honor of Joel Roberts Poinsett, who introduced the plant

into the country in 1828. Poinsett was a botanist, physician and the first United States Ambassador to Mexico.

He sent cuttings of the plant he had discovered in Southern Mexico to his home in Charleston, South Carolina.

The word Poinsettia is traditionally capitalized because it is named after a person.

Anatomy of a Poinsettia

The showy colored parts of Poinsettias that most people think of as the flowers are actually colored bracts

(modified leaves). The yellow flowers, or cyathia, are in the center of the colorful bracts. The plant drops its

bracts and leaves soon after those flowers shed their pollen. For the longest-lasting Poinsettias, choose plants

with little or no yellow pollen showing.

Many plants in the Euphorbiaceae family ooze a milky sap. Some people with latex allergies have had a skin

reaction (most likely to the sap) after touching the leaves.

Despite rumors to the contrary, Poinsettias are not poisonous. A study at Ohio State University showed that a

50-pound child would have to eat more than a pound-and-a-quarter of Poinsettia leaves (500 to 600 leaves) to

have any side effects. The most common side effects that have been reported from Poinsettia ingestions are

upset stomach and vomiting. The leaves are reportedly not very tasty, so it's highly unlikely that kids or even

pets would be able to eat that many! But be aware that the leaves can still be a choking hazard for children and

pets.

In nature, Poinsettias are perennial flowering shrubs that were once considered weeds.

Poinsettias are not frost-tolerant. They will grow outdoors in temperate coastal climates, such as Southern

California beach communities. In the ground, they can reach 10 feet tall.

The colors of the bracts are created through "photoperiodism", meaning that they require darkness (12 hours at a

time for at least five days in a row) to change color. On the other hand, once Poinsettias finish that process, the

plants require abundant light during the day for the brightest color.

Great Moments in Poinsettia History

Poinsettias are native to Mexico. They are found in the wild in deciduous tropical forest at moderate elevations

from southern Sinaloa down the entire Pacific coast of Mexico to Chiapas and Guatemala. They are also found

in the interior of Mexico in the hot, seasonally dry forests of Gurerro and Oxaca.

December 12th is Poinsettia Day, which marks the death of Joel Roberts Poinsett in 1851.

In Mexico, the Poinsettia is displayed in celebration of the "Dia de la Virgen", which is also coincidentally,

December 12th.

The Aztecs used the Poinsettia bracts to make a reddish purple dye for fabrics, and used the sap medicinally to

control fevers.

Montezuma, the last of the Aztec Kings, had Poinsettias delivered to him by caravan to what is now Mexico

City, because Poinsettias could not be grown in the high altitude.

Paul Ecke Jr. is considered the father of the Poinsettia industry due to his discovery of a technique which caused

seedlings to branch. This technique allowed the Poinsettia industry to flourish. The Paul Ecke Ranch in

California grows over 70% of all Poinsettias purchased in the United States and about 50% of the world-wide

sales of Poinsettias. As of August 2012, the Ecke Ranch, which was family-owned and operated for nearly 100

years, announced that it had been acquired by the Dutch-based Agribio Group.

The Ecke family had a secret technique that caused every seedling to branch, resulting in a fuller plant. In 1991,

a university graduate student published an article that described a method for causing Poinsettias to branch.

With the secret out and available to everyone, competition flourished, especially from Europe, resulting in a

decrease of Ecke's share of the market.

An NCAA college football bowl game in San Diego is named the Poinsettia Bowl. The first bowl was played in

December of 1952 and was created as a military services championship game, with the Western and Eastern

military services champions competing against each other.

Poinsettias By the Numbers There are over 100 varieties of Poinsettias available. Though once only available in red, there are now

Poinsettias in pink, white, yellow, purple, salmon, and multi-colors. They have names like 'Premium Picasso',

'Monet Twilight', 'Shimmer', and 'Surprise'.

The red Poinsettia still dominates over other color options. 'Prestige Red'--one of many poinsettias patented by

Ecke--ranks among the best-selling hybrids.

Poinsettias contribute over $250 million to the U.S. economy at the retail level.

California is the top U.S. Poinsettia-producing state.

Poinsettias are the best selling potted plant in the United States and Canada.

Poinsettias are the most popular Christmas plant. Most Poinsettias are sold within a six-week period leading up

to that holiday, representing some $60 million worth.

It is estimated that women account for 80% of Poinsettia sales.

The most common question people have about Poinsettias is how to get them to rebloom in successive years.

History & Legends

The Aztecs called poinsettias "Cuetlaxochitl." During the 14th - 16th century the sap was used to control fevers

and the bracts (modified leaves) were used to make a reddish dye.

Montezuma, the last of the Aztec kings, would have poinsettias brought into what now is Mexico City by

caravans because poinsettias could not be grown in the high altitude.

In the 17th century, Juan Balme, a botanist, noted the poinsettia plant in his writings.

The botanical name, Euphorbia pulcherrima, was assigned to the poinsettia by the German botanist, Wilenow.

The plant grew through a crack in his greenhouse. Dazzled by its color, he gave it the botanical name,

Euphorbia pulcherrima meaning "very beautiful."

Joel Roberts Poinsett was the first United States Ambassador to Mexico being appointed by President John

Quincy Adams in the 1820's. At the time of his appointment, Mexico was involved in a civil war. Because of

his interest in botany he introduced the American elm into Mexico. During his stay in Mexico he wandered the

countryside looking for new plant species. In 1828 he found a beautiful shrub with large red flowers growing

next to a road. He took cuttings from the plant and brought them back to his greenhouse in South Carolina.

Even though Poinsett had an outstanding career as a United States Congressman and as an ambassador he will

always be remembered for introducing the poinsettia into the

United States.

William Prescott, a historian and horticulturist, was asked to give

Euphorbia pulcherrima a new name as it became more popular. At

that time Mr. Prescott had just published a book called the ‘Conquest

of Mexico’ in which he detailed Joel Poinsett’s discovery of the plant.

Prescott named the plant the poinsettia in honor of Joel Poinsett’s

discovery.

A nurseryman from Pennsylvania, John Bartram is credited

as being the first person to sell poinsettias under its botanical name,

Euphorbia pulcherrima

In the early 1900's the Ecke family of southern California grew

poinsettias outdoors for use as landscape plants and as a cut flower.

Eventually the family grew poinsettias in greenhouses and today is

recognized as the leading producer of poinsettias in the United States.

Caring for Poinsettias

The length of time your poinsettia will give you pleasure in your home is dependent on (1) the maturity

of the plant, (2) when you buy it, and (3) how you treat the plant. With care, poinsettias should retain

their beauty for weeks and some varieties will stay attractive for months.

After you have made your poinsettia selection, make sure it is wrapped properly because exposure to

low temperatures even for a few minutes can damage the bracts and leaves.

Unwrap your poinsettia carefully and place in indirect light. Six hours of light daily is ideal. Keep the

plant from touching cold windows.

Keep poinsettias away from warm or cold drafts from radiators, air registers or open doors and

windows.

Ideally poinsettias require daytime temperatures of 60 to 70°F and night time temperatures around

55°F. High temperatures will shorten the plant’s life. Move the plant to a cooler room at night, if

possible.

Check the soil daily. Be sure to punch holes in foil so water can drain into a saucer. Water when soil is

dry. Allow water to drain into the saucer and discard excess water. Wilted plants will tend to drop

bracts sooner.

Fertilize the poinsettia if you keep it past the holiday season. Apply a houseplant fertilizer once a

month. Do not fertilize when it is in bloom.

With good care, a poinsettia will last 6-8 weeks in your home.

Fall Garden Cleanup By the end of November, many gardeners are a bit “battle weary” from performing gardening

chores. Fighting insects and diseases as well as other problems throughout the growing season

can leave one ready for a break. However, November is the time of year when, in the garden,

we should follow Benjamin Franklin’s adage: “An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of

cure.” The latter takes the form of fall cleanup which can add significantly to the success of

next year’s garden. It is still not too late to finish up your clean up.

Garden cleanup does more than just improve the appearance of the garden during the

(seemingly) lifeless of winter. It is an important part of preparing the garden for the coming

growing season by reducing the amount of disease inoculum and insect infestation that might be

present. Prevention is the best cure for any plant-related problem. While disposing of the

remnants of this year’s garden might not totally prevent problems from occurring next year, it is

certain to lessen them.

Fall clean-up starts with removing all plant debris from the garden and disposing of it

properly. Remaining vegetables (other than winter vegetables) and annuals should be

pulled. Healthy plant material can be added to a compost pile; debris from diseased or insect

infested plants should be discarded. When in doubt, discard plant material removed.

Herbaceous perennials can be cut back to their crowns any time after they have gone

dormant. This usually occurs after the first hard freeze of the fall. Mulch those perennials that

benefit from winter protection after several freezes have occurred and the soil has cooled. The

same is true for winterizing roses.

Additionally, thoroughly weeding garden space in the fall will help to curb weed populations

the following growing season. Careful hand or mechanical weeding is best, although non-

selective herbicides such as glyphosate can be used on living weeds. However, keep in mind

that post-emergence herbicides applied in cool or cold weather take longer to kill target

weeds. Using rates at the high end of labeled recommendations is advised whenever the air

temperature falls below 65o F.

Weeds that already have matured and set seed should be carefully removed from the garden. It

has been estimated that one large pigweed can produced between 100,000 and 600,000

seeds. Carelessly pulling a weed and dragging it out of the garden is a good way to spread

seeds and insure a large population of weeds next growing season. Instead, cut the weed and

carefully place it in a large plastic bag before removing it from the garden.

Fall also is an ideal time to improve garden soil. The addition of compost, well-rotted manure

or other forms of organic matter is more easily accomplished in the fall when the soil

(generally) is more workable. For annual flower beds and vegetable gardens, incorporating

several inches of well-decomposed organic matter is consider a “best management practice” for

gardens. Limestone and other slowly soluble fertilizers can be incorporated at the same time, if

called for by soil tests.

Also, turn off and frost proof irrigation systems. Drain hoses and store them out of the

sun. Drip irrigation systems should be carefully removed and stored for use next year. Fall is a

good time to clean and store garden tools. Metal surfaces should be free of soil and covered

with a thin film of soil before storing. Tools with a cutting edge should be cleaned and

sharpened in preparation for next year’s growing season.

Power garden equipment such as mowers and tillers can be winterized at this time as

well. Check the owner’s manual for how this should be accomplished. If mechanical problems

developed over the past gardening season, now is a good time to have them resolved. Garden

equipment mechanics are much busier in the spring than in the fall.

Finally, think spring. While the image of this year’s garden is still vivid, start making plans for

next year. What were the major problems/disappointments of the recently-completed growing

season and how might they be prevented next year? Which varieties worked well and which

did not? Do those that were disappointing deserve a second chance or is it time to try

something new? Since time tends to dull the memory of most, sketch a planting plan for next

year and start to form a gardening “to do” list. Remember, winter is only 90 days long.

How to care for Knock Out Roses

By Debbie Wolfe (DebbieWolfe) November 17, 2014

Maintaining a rose garden can be a lot of work. But, believe it or not, there is a rose variety that is tough and requires very little. Here are some tips and tricks to help you successfully grow the world's easiest rose.

The Knock-Out rose bush is one of the most popular roses in North America for good reason. It's a prolific grower and needs little in the way of maintenance. It is very disease resistant and will continue to produce cheery blooms without the need to deadhead them. For gardeners who like roses in their flower gardens, but without all the fuss, then the Knock Out rose is for you.

General Plant Characteristics

Knock Out roses grow to 4 feet tall and 4 feet wide. With no pruning they have reached over 6 feet at my home. A smaller bush can be maintained through pruning. They have a 5 to 6 week bloom cycle. There is no need to dead-head the blooms in order to get more flowers. They are a self-cleaning rose bush and will continue to produce flowers throughout their bloom cycle.

Growing Requirements

Knock Out Roses are hardy to zone 5. They like well-drained and fertile soil in full sun. A two or three inch layer of mulch will moderate the soil temperature and conserve moisture during hot, dry weather, minimizing summer stress. In northern areas, mulch may be more important in winter, but here in the mid-South I make sure it is refreshed going into summer.

Feeding and Watering

At planting time, use a starter fertilizer to help establish a deep root system. Water deeply after planting, and monitor soil moisture to keep it consistently moist but not wet. An established Knock OutÆ rose only requires supplemental water in the driest weather. Do not water roses with overhead sprinklers, because that can lead to leaf spot and powdery mildew. Instead, hand-water or use soaker hoses. Feed Knock OutÆ roses with a rose fertilizer (organic or conventional) in spring as the foliage emerges and again after the first bloom cycle has finished.

Pruning

Prune Knock Out roses hard in the late winter by removing 25-30% of the plant, including any dead, spindly or congested branches. The branch structure after pruning should be somewhat vase shaped

and balanced. Remove all pruned material from your property to minimize the chance of spreading pathogens to other roses which may not have the same resistance as the Knock Out rose. Regular pruning during the growing season happens between bloom cycles; the primary goals being to remove spent blooms before rose hips begin to form, and size maintenance. When a rose is pollinated, the fruit that forms is called a rose hip, if rose hips are allowed to form, it greatly lengthens the amount of time between bloom cycles. Remove spent blooms to shorten the time between bloom cycles. As for size considerations, a Knock Out rose will grow approximately 16 inches to produce it ís bloom cluster; so removing 16 inches of bloomed-out growth at the end of a bloom cycle will maintain the plant is current size. If your goal is to let the plant grow larger, remove only the spent blooms themselves. To reduce the size of the plant you can cut a bit more than 16 inches; however, the harder you cut, the longer and weaker the branches tend to grow back. Try to keep the mid-season pruning to 15% or less of the overall plant size. If you find that the winter pruning is not keeping the rose small enough, you may need to transplant the rose to a place with more room.

Family Members

Knock Out Roses are available in several different color and style varieties. Colors range from bright yellow, to a soft mauve, pink and deep red. They look great planted in large groups as a hedge or individually among other perennials and annuals in mixed beds and borders. Here are some of the varieties: Knock Out Rose, Double Knock Out Rose, Pink Knock Out Rose, Pink Double Knock Out Rose, Rainbow Knock Out Rose, Blushing Knock Out Rose, and Sunny Knock Out Rose.

Virus Alert

In the past few years, rose rosette virus has been a growing concern for Knock Out rose enthusiasts. The virus is transmitted from plant to plant by a mite which feeds on young leaves. The disease travels through the vascular system of the plant without symptoms until it has reached the root system. At this point new growth will show signs of infection. Left unchecked, it can spread throughout the plant and to any other roses in the area. This new disease is cause for concern because the infamous disease resistance of Knock Out roses does not prevent them from succumbing to it. Further, there is no spray or other treatment that can be applied to infected plants: they must be removed and destroyed. The telltale signs of rose rosette include thread-like or misshapen new growth, thick stems that are densely thorny, a deep red color to the new growth (more-so than the normal red of Knock Out roses). If you notice these symptoms, get a second opinion from a trusted horticultural source, like your county extension agent, before removing the plant. If you have had an infestation of rose rosette, do not replant roses in that location for at least three years and be sure to eliminate any suckers that may sprout from the roots of the previous plant.

Christmas Cacti Care

By Geoff Stein (palmbob) November 20, 2014

There are several plant species that are called Christmas cacti, but the true Christmas cactus is the plant discussed below, Schlumbergera x buckleyi, a hybrid of some very similar holiday cacti, and is a very common plant in cultivation. These are relatively easy plants to take care of, safe (no spines or toxins) and can live a long time (generations). The following is a brief discussion of these plants and their year round care.

Natural History:

The true scientific name for this plant is a bit unclear. In PlantFiles, these

are entered under both Schlumbergera truncata as well as

Schlumbergera x buckleyi. It appears that the ‘true’ Christmas cacti

are indeed hybrids of S. buckleyi and possibly S. truncata. Some call this

plant a Zygocactus species, but that is definitely a synonym genus, not a

currently accepted one for this species. Closely related plants include the

Thanksgiving Cactus (again, due to the timing of the plant’s natural

affinity to bloom around Thanksgiving) or Crab Cactus, (due to the

overall shape of the plant) and Easter cacti. These plants are nearly

identical to Christmas cacti but tend to either have sharper node tips, or

much blunter node tips and bloom at different times of the year.

flowers coming from tips of branches

Schlumbergeras are epiphytes in nature (grow on other plants or non-soil surfaces), from the high elevation

jungles of Brazil. Their natural environment is a relatively cool even temperature, high humidity, bright light

with little direct sunlight, and frequent rain. Considering their tropical source and epiphytic nature, however,

they do amazingly well as potted plants in normal cactus soil and in a warm temperate climate, or indoors.

A particularly large and old plant- these do well as hanging plants thanks to their epiphytic nature

Though these are indeed true cacti, they do not look like the cacti most are normally used to seeing. These

plants are fleshy, green, segmented plants that, over time, develop woody, thick stems. Thankfully they are

basically spineless (aka 'user-friendly'). They also have no leaves, though some sources refer to the segments as

cladophylls, or a form of leaf. However, the segments are usually called cladodes and are similar in general

form to those that make up Opuntia cacti. Flowers develop in fall from the tips of the last cladode of each

segmented arm.

old plant with woody stem (photo by pdb George4tax)

Care:

Not surprisingly, Christmas cacti require different care than do most cacti. Though from the tropics, they live in

a relatively cool environment and therefore do NOT like high heat like most cacti do. Basically all cacti are

summer growers and spend winte r basically comatose or at

least very inactive in terms of growing or flowering. And this is

still true of Christmas cacti, despite their blooming in winter.

They do very little growing in winter, but it is the best time of year

to enjoy Christmas cacti, when the days are shortening and

the temps cooling down. They don’t like temps much over 80F

anyway. On the other hand they cannot tolerate freezes either,

and prefer temps above 55F (though outdoor plants seem to cope

with temps into the low 30s well- just not very happy about

them). So if keeping them outdoors and cold weather is

coming, it’s time to bring them in. note the color change of

leaves in winter, due to cold on this outdoor plant

And unlike most cacti, Schlumbergeras do not like full sun,

particularly when it’s hot. But they do like bright light and grow and flower best if the light is very bright.

Fortunately they do tolerate low light situations for short periods of time, and that is why they do so well as

indoor plants. A few days in the middle of the table far from windows will not do them much harm… but they

do need to be returned to an area of bright light soon after, or blooming might cease early. For those in cold

climates, these cacti do best if kept outdoors under a shady tree or porch when it’s warm and moved back

indoors near a bright window as it gets colder. In warmer climates these can be kept outdoors year round, but

still don’t try to grow them in the garden like one would a regular cactus. I have tried this over and over

unsuccessfully, though I can sometimes get them to grow in raised beds on the north side of a house if watered

well all year round. Freezes will damage them, but it takes a pretty severe freeze in southern California to kill

one.

These are sale plants in a nursery in low light. There were probably greenhouse plants until just recently. Note

the buds on the plant in second photo. Perhaps this one will still be blooming around Christmas, but as this is

November, it may not be. Best to get a brand new plant a week before Christmas if you want to be blooming

then.

They still are cacti, though, and need to be planted in well draining soil. Remember that in the wild they

basically live in soilless situations, so water needs to drain past the roots easily, or they could rot. I have

personally found that they do not rot all that easily, though, and some carelessness about watering is tolerated.

But certainly not recommended! Underwatering will kill a Christmas Cactus, too, but a lot more slowly. There

is plenty of time to intervene should the cladodes appear flattened and wrinkled. Schlumbergeras are from high

rainfall and high humidity environments and do appreciate being watered regularly. These plants tend to do well

in soils with a good portion of peat moss, something that, if it dries out, will be hard to get wet again. So be

careful not to let soils get too dry if using peat moss. Use clay pots if growing these in humid climates, and

plastic pots if growing in arid climates. Leach the soil 2-3x a year of accumulated salts.

Once the days shorten (usually in October), back off on watering. Some recommend NO water the entire month

of October, and then resume again in November. Then it is recommended to withhold water again once

blooming is over for a bit longer than a month this time. If signs of new growth appear, it’s time to start

watering again. This is also a good time to repot the plant and put it in some new, clean, well-draining soil.

Repotting is recommended every few years.

First photo is of my outdoor plant on Thanksgiving, and then a week later.

Fertilization should be with half strength water soluble formulas and only in warmer weather (not during or

after flowering, until new growth is seen and time for repotting). If using a granular fertilizer, it is best to be

stingy- these plants do tolerate fertilizers better than do most cacti, but still, be careful. 10-10-10 is the best ratio

to use.

For plants that are not flowering as expected, be sure the soil is not too dry, or plants are not next to a cold or

hot source (air conditioner, heater etc.). If there is some night light on the plant, it might retard it from blooming

well. Put these plants in a totally dark room for a minimum of 13 hours a night. This will also help these plants

bloom when wanted, and not too early (like around Thanksgiving which is probably more ‘normal’ for most

plants). These plants may need longer light to simulate early fall, rather than late fall, to keep them from

blooming too early. Then do the total darkness thing about 4-6 weeks before the time blooming is desired, every

night until buds form and the plants can be returned to their location near the window or table. And be sure the

daytime temps are in the 60s (hot houses will prevent these from blooming) and night temps are not much

below 50F. Sometimes a little liquid fertilizer with extra potassium can help stimulate blooming. Once

flowering starts, it is recommended not to move these plants too much, in terms of overall heat and light, or they

may abruptly stop blooming and drop all their buds.

Problem insects include fungus gnats, mealy bug and scale. The first one can often be controlled by simple

insecticidal soap and trying not to keep the soils too wet. The other two usually need systemic insecticides,

particularly scale, and can really damage a Christmas Cactus in a hurry. Plants kept in areas where there is good

air circulation (such as hanging outdoors under a tree) usually have less problems with insects.

My plant right from the seller in photo on left above, where it has been kept indoors and happy, to outdoor life

on the right- note all the blooms fell off and hardly any flowering, despite only being a week later- went into

shock from the change of environment

Problem insects include fungus gnats, mealy bug and scale. The first one can often be controlled by simple

insecticidal soap and trying not to keep the soils too wet. The other two usually need systemic insecticides,

particularly scale, and can really damage a Christmas Cactus in a hurry. Plants kept in areas where there is good

air circulation (such as hanging outdoors under a tree) usually have less problems with insects.

Pruning of plants once the flowering season is over is a good way to make the plants bushier or fuller. This also

provides one with a number of cuttings for making more plants.

These are pretty easy plants to propagate, by just taking cuttings of 1-4 cladodes long and letting them sit in a

cool dry place for 2-3 days, then planting them in a pumice or well draining soil/germinating mix until new

growth is seen. Water only sparingly at first, but once roots form or new growth is seen, water regularly. It is

best to do this when it’s warm, but possible to do just about any time of year.

These plants come in a variety of colors now as hybridization practices become more refined. Photos from left

to right: mine, pdb_vince, jnana and Grasmussen

These are long lived plants and if taken well care of, repotted regularly and keep from rotting or drying out too

much, they can become fairly large, woody-based plants and become family heirlooms for generations.

The following link is to a site which is the best I have seen for explaining the differences between Christmas

Cacti, Thanksgiving Cacti and Easter Cacti:

http://cactus.biology.dal.ca/paulS/christmas/christmas.html#christmas

Read more: http://davesgarden.com/guides/articles/view/381/#ixzz3K46vlfjC

Free World War II Food Ration Stamps for Digital Designers

During World War II some countries rationed food, fuel and other supplies using ration stamps. This collection

includes several sheets of stamps as well as the booklets they were carried in.

These American ration stamps were issued through the United States Office of Price Administration in 1943 as

World War II was building momentum. These ration stamps are a beautiful piece of history! Six books of ration

stamps and four booklet covers.

Remember Pearl Harbor – Dec 7th, 1941

A prayer for those men and women who died that day that we might enjoy this day

God Bless America