The Mini Rough Guide to Teesside - Teesside University · Shopping 52 Music and entertainment 54...

66
TEESSIDE THE MINI ROUGH GUIDE to

Transcript of The Mini Rough Guide to Teesside - Teesside University · Shopping 52 Music and entertainment 54...

TEESSIDETHE MINI ROUGH GUIDE to

TEESSIDETHE MINI ROUGH GUIDE to

TEESSIDETHE MINI ROUGH GUIDE to

CreditsAuthor: Linda BlackburneSenior Editor: Ros Walford

Designer: Nicola ErdpresserFactchecking: Stuart Forster

Proofreading: Alex WhittletonCartographer: Ed Wright

Senior Prepress Designer: Daniel MayProduction: Olivia Jeffries, Stephanie McConnell

Account Manager: Michael StanfieldPublisher: Keith Drew

Teesside University contributors:

Editorial: Michelle Eaves, Laura HaveronPhotography: Judy Hume, Rachel Lonsdale

Middlesbrough Council contributors:Editorial: Rachel Grey, Yaffa Phillips

This second edition published 2016 by Rough Guides Ltd, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL

Copyright © 2014, 2016 Rough Guides Ltd.

Maps © Rough Guides Contains Ordnance Survey data © Crown copyright and database rights 2014

002–299429–Jun/16

ISBN: 978-0-2412-8689-0

Published in association with Teesside University and Middlesbrough Council

The publishers and authors have done their best to ensure the accuracy and currency of all the information in this book. However, they can accept

no responsibility for any loss, injury, or inconvenience sustained by any traveller as a result of information or advice contained in the guide.

Contents

Canopy by Martin Donlin

Introducing Teesside 4Highlights of Teesside 4Map of Teesside 6Teesside’s history 8Captain Cook 10Did you know? 12Who’s who 14Cultural events 16Teesside University 18Green spaces 20Galleries and museums 22Sculpture trail 24Sports 26Outdoor activities 28Walking and cycling routes 30Children’s activities 32

Around Teesside 34Middlesbrough 34Map of Middlesbrough 36Stockton-on-Tees, Preston Park

and Yarm 42Darlington 44The River Tees 46By the sea 48Beyond Teesside 50

Things to do 52Shopping 52Music and entertainment 54Theatre, cinema and comedy 56Where to stay 58Where to eat 60Drinking and nightlife 62Picture credits & resources 64

Teesside is known for its eclectic mix of

industry, culture and striking scenery.

From the working docks of the Tees

Estuary to the area’s vibrant towns and

glorious countryside, this is a place

where old and new, urban and rural,

and culture and commerce converge.

Driving alongside the River Tees through

the towns of Middlesbrough, Stockton-on-Tees and Yarm, you’ll come across

two top attractions that are inextricably

linked to the region’s industrial past: the

iconic Tees Transporter Bridge, one of

only a few bridges in the world to use

a gondola for transportation, and the

watersports haven of the Tees Barrage.

While these remnants of Teesside’s

maritime past are preserved for posterity,

industry is still in full swing at Teesport,

the UK’s third-largest port, which handles

40 million tonnes of cargo a year.

In Middlesbrough, a regeneration

project has transformed the dockyards

Highlights of Teesside

Centre Square, Middlesbrough

mima; leafy Albert Park; Middlesbrough Football Club

4 INTRODUCING TEESSIDE

TEESSIDE

Parks and nature reserves punctuate

Teesside, which lies only a stone’s

throw from the heritage coasts of

Northumberland and North Yorkshire.

Middlesbrough’s Albert and Stewart parks offer lovely open spaces, while

the Teesmouth National Nature Reserve, located between Hartlepool

and Redcar, is home to many rare plants

and some 20,000 migratory water birds.

Roseberry Topping, known as the

“mini Matterhorn” of the North York Moors National Park, lies 11km south

of Middlesbrough. This distinctive

peak, much loved by Teessiders, was

a favourite of the British explorer and

Middlesbrough son Captain Cook

almost 300 years ago. Today, the North

Yorkshire-born mountaineer Alan Hinkes,

who has scaled the world’s fourteen

highest peaks, still climbs it regularly.

area, known as Middlehaven. Here,

you can eat at fine-dining restaurants

beside the waterfront and the gigantic

sculpture Temenos, by Anish Kapoor.

The town is also home to one of the UK’s

leading contemporary art galleries – Middlesbrough Institute of Modern Art (mima) – as well as the much-loved

Middlesbrough Football Club.

The town is a burgeoning business

hub. The Boho Zone attracts creative

companies, while the regeneration

of Baker Street and Bedford Street

has seen many independent eateries,

micropubs and vintage shops flourish.

Baker Street hosts the town’s first artisan

street-food market, the Orange Pip Market. South of the centre, the restored

Grade-I-listed Acklam Hall provides

Middlesbrough with a wonderful new

venue for weddings and conferences.

Middlehaven at dusk

CoulbyNewham

N O R T H Y O R K S H I R E

D U R H A M

Saltburn-by-the-Sea

Marske-by-the-Sea

Skelton

Brotton

Yarm

Egglescliffe

GreatAytonStokesley

HuttonRudby

Osmotherley

Heighington

Shildon

Ferryhill

BowburnBrandon

Willington

Boulby

Loftus

Staithes

RunswickBay

Kirkleatham

SeatonCarew

Sedgefield

GreatBroughton

Battersby

Danby

Glaisdale

Goathland

Grosmont

Egton

Billingham

Spennymoor

SeahamHetton-le-Hole

Ravenscar

Sleights

FylingthorpeSleights

Cloughton

Stockton-on-Tees

NewtonAycliffe

BishopAuckland

Peterlee

Guisborough

Redcar

Whitby

Whitby

D u r h am H e r i t age Coa s t

N o r t h Yo r k s h i r e a n d C l e v e l a n d H e r i t a g e C o a s t

N o r t h Yo r k s h i re a n d C l e ve l a nd H e r i t a g e Co a s t

Darlington

Durham

Hartlepool

LONDON

Middlesbrough

Tees Link Cleve l and Way

Cleve

land W

ay

England Coast Path

Teesdale Way

Teesdale Way

Cleveland Way

Cleve land Way

A690

A1 M

A688

A6072

A68

A66

A66

A19

A174

A171

B125

7

A171

A171

A169

A171

A169

A174

A172

A689

A19

A19

A179

A689

A66

A1

A167

Saltholme

HMS Trincomalee& Hartlepool’s

Maritime Experience

OrmesbyHall

Eston Nab

Cleveland IronstoneMining Museum

Captain CookMemorialMuseum

FlattsLane

CountryPark

Captain Cook’sMonument

Guisborough Forest

Tees Barrage

Billingham Forum

River Tees Watersports Centre

Preston Park

Head of SteamRailway Museum

Train

RailwayMuseum

MiddlesbroughSports Village

UnicornCentre

Captain Cook Birthplace MuseumAcklam Hall

Teesmouth NNR

DurhamTees Valley

InternationalAirport

North YorkMoors Railway

Esk ValleyRailway

Stewart Park

N O R T H Y O R K M O O R S

N A T I O N A L P A R K

N O R T H Y O R K M O O R S

N AT I O N A L PA R K

DalbyForest

Teesport

Tees-mouth

River Tees

River LevenRiver Esk

Rive

r Ske

rne

River Wear

Robin Hood’sBay

E s t o n M o o r

RoseberryTopping

North Gare Sands

SealSands

South Gare PeninsulaCoathamSands

Old Peak orSouth Cheek

Ness Point orNorth Cheek

N O R T H S E A

TEESSIDE

International airport

Point of interest

Statue/monument

Museum

Stately home

Archeological site/ruin

Country park

Nature reserve

Peak

Thirsk (9 miles), Sutton Bank (14 miles) & York (32 miles)Leeds (47 miles)

Newcastle upon Tyne (11 miles) & Northumberland (20 miles) Newcastle upon Tyne (17 miles) & Northumberland (24 miles)

Lake

Dist

rict (

50 m

iles)

Rievaulx Abbey (9 miles) Hole of Horcum (3 miles), Go Ape Dalby Forest (7 miles) & Flamingo Land (14 miles)

SEECONTINUATION

ABOVE

SEEMIDDLESBROUGH

MAP

N 100 kilometres

50 milesTEESSIDE

NORTHEAST ENGLAND

6 MINI ROUGH GUIDE TO TEESSIDE

CoulbyNewham

N O R T H Y O R K S H I R E

D U R H A M

Saltburn-by-the-Sea

Marske-by-the-Sea

Skelton

Brotton

Yarm

Egglescliffe

GreatAytonStokesley

HuttonRudby

Osmotherley

Heighington

Shildon

Ferryhill

BowburnBrandon

Willington

Boulby

Loftus

Staithes

RunswickBay

Kirkleatham

SeatonCarew

Sedgefield

GreatBroughton

Battersby

Danby

Glaisdale

Goathland

Grosmont

Egton

Billingham

Spennymoor

SeahamHetton-le-Hole

Ravenscar

Sleights

FylingthorpeSleights

Cloughton

Stockton-on-Tees

NewtonAycliffe

BishopAuckland

Peterlee

Guisborough

Redcar

Whitby

Whitby

D u r h am H e r i t age Coa s t

N o r t h Yo r k s h i r e a n d C l e v e l a n d H e r i t a g e C o a s t

N o r t h Yo r k s h i re a n d C l e ve l a nd H e r i t a g e Co a s t

Darlington

Durham

Hartlepool

LONDON

MiddlesbroughTees Link Cleve l and Way

Cleve

land W

ay

England Coast Path

Teesdale Way

Teesdale Way

Cleveland Way

Cleve land Way

A690

A1 M

A688

A6072

A68

A66

A66

A19

A174

A171

B125

7

A171

A171

A169

A171

A169

A174

A172

A689

A19

A19

A179

A689

A66

A1

A167

Saltholme

HMS Trincomalee& Hartlepool’s

Maritime Experience

OrmesbyHall

Eston Nab

Cleveland IronstoneMining Museum

Captain CookMemorialMuseum

FlattsLane

CountryPark

Captain Cook’sMonument

Guisborough Forest

Tees Barrage

Billingham Forum

River Tees Watersports Centre

Preston Park

Head of SteamRailway Museum

Train

RailwayMuseum

MiddlesbroughSports Village

UnicornCentre

Captain Cook Birthplace MuseumAcklam Hall

Teesmouth NNR

DurhamTees Valley

InternationalAirport

North YorkMoors Railway

Esk ValleyRailway

Stewart Park

N O R T H Y O R K M O O R S

N A T I O N A L P A R K

N O R T H Y O R K M O O R S

N AT I O N A L PA R K

DalbyForest

Teesport

Tees-mouth

River Tees

River LevenRiver Esk

Rive

r Ske

rne

River Wear

Robin Hood’sBay

E s t o n M o o r

RoseberryTopping

North Gare Sands

SealSands

South Gare PeninsulaCoathamSands

Old Peak orSouth Cheek

Ness Point orNorth Cheek

N O R T H S E A

TEESSIDE

International airport

Point of interest

Statue/monument

Museum

Stately home

Archeological site/ruin

Country park

Nature reserve

Peak

Thirsk (9 miles), Sutton Bank (14 miles) & York (32 miles)Leeds (47 miles)

Newcastle upon Tyne (11 miles) & Northumberland (20 miles) Newcastle upon Tyne (17 miles) & Northumberland (24 miles)

Lake

Dist

rict (

50 m

iles)

Rievaulx Abbey (9 miles) Hole of Horcum (3 miles), Go Ape Dalby Forest (7 miles) & Flamingo Land (14 miles)

SEECONTINUATION

ABOVE

SEEMIDDLESBROUGH

MAP

N 100 kilometres

50 milesTEESSIDE

NORTHEAST ENGLAND

7INTRODUCING TEESSIDE

Teesside has been inhabited since

ancient times. The rocky promontory

of Eston Nab, which overlooks

modern-day Middlesbrough, formed

part of an Iron Age fortress, and in

Anglo-Saxon times, the town was

the site of a chapel belonging to

nearby Whitby Abbey (see p.49). In

fact, the name “Middlesbrough” is

Teesside’s historya modern form of the Saxon name

“Mydilsburgh”, which is thought to

refer to the town’s “mydil” (middle)

position between the Christian

centres of Durham and Whitby.

It wasn’t until the 1820s, however,

that Teesside really earned its place

in history, when engineer George

Stephenson built the world’s first

public railway, the Stockton and Darlington Railway. The event

revolutionized global transportation,

proving that horses and carts were

no longer needed and increasing

transport speed to a previously

unimaginable extent.

In 1830, Middlesbrough was home

to only three farms and 25 people.

In 1831, Joseph Pease, manager of

the Stockton and Darlington Railway

Company, bought the 500-acre estate

for £30,000 to extend the railway

line from Stockton to Middlesbrough

for coal export. The route from the

Durham coalfields to the east coast

led to the export of 1,500,000 tonnes

of coal from Middlesbrough in 1840;

the endeavour was so successful that

other industries, including brickyards,

potteries and shipyards, soon sprang

up across the region.The imposing Tees Transporter Bridge

8 MINI ROUGH GUIDE TO TEESSIDE

Where alchemistsWere bornBelow Cleveland’s hillsA giant blue dragonflyAcross the TeesReminds us every nightWe built the worldEvery metropolisCame fromIronopolisIronopolis by Ian Horn can be seen in

Middlesbrough on a wall on Bridge

Street East and at The Southfield pub.

industrial target to be bombed. The

destruction of more than 200 buildings

forced extensive redevelopment in

the town centre, but some impressive

examples of Victorian architecture still exist today, mainly in the Albert

Park and Linthorpe Road Conservation

Area and in the streets surrounding

the train station.

Not many places can lay claim to

coating half the planet in metal, but

Teesside did just that. The nineteenth-

century ironstone boom that led to

the construction of the Tees Transporter

Bridge, Newcastle’s Tyne Bridge and

Australia’s Sydney Harbour Bridge has

not been forgotten.

The following year, the discovery of

ironstone deposits in the Eston Hills by

Henry Bolckow, a German accountant,

and John Vaughan, a Worcester

ironworker, triggered Middlesbrough’s

commercial metamorphosis. Mills,

foundries, steel-manufacturing companies and engineering works evolved here at a dizzying rate. The

town’s rags-to-riches transformation

was unprecedented in England, and by

1890 – despite a cholera epidemic in the

1850s – the population had ballooned

to 90,000 and the town became known

as Ironopolis.

During World War II, Middlesbrough

was the first major British town and

9INTRODUCING TEESSIDE

The eighteenth-

century explorer

and navigator

Captain Cook is

Middlesbrough’s

most famous son.

James Cook was

born in a humble

cottage in the town

in 1728, a stone’s

throw from what is

now the Captain Cook Birthplace Museum (see p.41).

After helping his

father on a farm at Great Ayton (see

p.50), a village on the edge of the North

York Moors, and working at a grocer’s

shop in the fishing village of Staithes

(see p.49), Cook became determined to

go to sea. He began as a sailor and rose

through the ranks to become lieutenant

of HM Bark Endeavour in 1766.

The Admiralty – the control centre of

the Royal Navy – promptly dispatched

Cook to search for a “Great Southern Continent”, and so he set off on

three great voyages across the Pacific

Ocean to find it. During this time, Cook

charted New Zealand and the east

coast of Australia and searched for the

Captain CookNorthwest Passage – a route through

the Arctic to connect the Atlantic and

Pacific oceans. He became the first

man to sail around the world in both

directions and redrew the world map.

He also kept the terrible disease of

scurvy at bay by making sure his crew

had fresh fruit and vegetables regularly.

His work was of international interest

in his own time, and he became a hero

among the scientific community.

Cook died on the Pacific island of

Hawaii after villagers stole his small

cutter vessel. Cook and his crew had

attempted to take the local leader,

Kalaniopuu, hostage in order to

negotiate the safe return of the boat,

but a mob of villagers descended on the

seamen and the captain was struck on

The illustrious sea captain in battle

Statue of Cook, Great Ayton

10 INTRODUCING TEESSIDE

the head and stabbed to death. He was

not eaten by cannibals, as is sometimes

believed; instead, the Hawaiians baked

his flesh to expose the bones, which

they used as religious icons.

Tributes abound to this colossus

of the emerging British Empire. In

Teesside, they include a primary

school, shopping square and university

hospital named after the great sailor,

a monument in the North York Moors

National Park and the Bottle of Notes

sculpture (see p.24) in Middlesbrough’s

Centre Square. There is a full-size replica

of HM Bark Endeavour (see pp.42–3)

at Castlegate Quay in Stockton, while

further afield, the Southampton-

berthed RRS James Cook was built

in 2006 to replace the RRS Charles

Darwin in the UK’s

Royal Research Fleet.

The most remarkable

tribute to Cook is

found on the other

side of the world: his

father’s home

on Bridge Street

in Great Ayton was

dismantled and rebuilt

in Fitzroy Gardens in

Melbourne, Australia,

in 1934 (see pp.50–51).

Inside the Captain Cook Birthplace Museum, Middlesbrough

Captain Cook Monument

✪ Oscar-winning film director Ridley Scott, who grew up in Stockton-on-Tees,

based the opening of the Hollywood

film Blade Runner on the view of the old

Imperial Chemical Industries (ICI) plant at

Wilton. Also, nearby Redcar featured in

the blockbuster film Atonement.

✪ The late rock star David Bowie collected the work of the

internationally renowned artist

William Tillyer, who was born in

Middlesbrough in 1938. The British

Businessman Charles Saatchi is

also a collector of Tillyer’s work.

Did you know?

✪ The imposing Dock Clock Tower at

Middlehaven Dock in Middlesbrough

has four sides, but only three clock faces – this is because employers did

not want the dockers to clock-watch.

Sydney Harbour Bridge, Australia

“There’s a walk from Redcar. I’d cross a bridge at night and walk above the steel works. It always seemed to be rather gloomy and raining, and I’d just think: ‘God, this is beautiful.’” – Ridley Scott on his

inspiration for the opening of 1982

Hollywood blockbuster Blade Runner

12 MINI ROUGH GUIDE TO TEESSIDE

✪ Australia’s majestic Sydney Harbour Bridge (1932) and

Newcastle’s iconic New Tyne Bridge

(1928) were made in Middlesbrough

by Dorman Long and Co. Ltd. – in

fact, many metal structures across the

world were built in the town.

✪ The Tees Transporter Bridge in

Middlesbrough is the only place in

England where you can bungee jump

from a bridge. It’s also possible to

abseil here.

✪ The Tees Transporter Bridge

featured in the successful British

TV comedy Auf Wiedersehen, Pet

(1983–2004). It also appeared in the hit

film Billy Elliot.

✪ In 2009, presenters of the BBC

Two show Top Gear came to the

area to find out whether cars are

more popular than modern art. They

curated an exhibition of automotive

art at mima (see pp.39–40),

Middlesbrough’s renowned gallery.

Among their publicity stunts for

the event was an appearance at

a Middlesbrough Football Club

match wearing Newcastle United

shirts. The stunt attracted record

numbers to mima.

✪ Several of the handcrafted ales

made by Middlesbrough’s much-loved

Truefitt Brewing Company have

been inspired by the town’s illustrious

industrial heritage – why not try Erimus

Pale Ale, Ironopolis Stout, Mydilsburgh

India Pale Ale and North Riding Bitter.

✪ Steve Cochrane, the founder

of Middlesbrough’s multi-award-

winning designer department store,

Psyche (see p.53), regularly mixes

with the great and the good of the

international fashion scene, including

designers Vivienne Westwood, Zandra

Rhodes and Tommy Hilfiger.

An art exhibition at mima

13INTRODUCING TEESSIDE

Teesside has produced its fair share

of distinguished figures over the

centuries, from a war hero and ocean

explorer to acclaimed scientists, artists,

writers, entertainers and athletes.

A bronze statue near the cenotaph

on Linthorpe Road commemorates

Middlesbrough’s Sergeant Major Stan Hollis, who was awarded the Victoria

Cross for storming a German pillbox on

the Normandy beaches on June 6, 1944.

He was the only Allied soldier to have

won the award for action on D-Day.

It was another kind of courage that

took Captain James Cook, also from

Middlesbrough, on his three voyages

around the world (see pp.10–11). The

great sea captain charted New Zealand

and the east coast of Australia for the first

time, and redrew the world map.

Stockton was the home of the chemist

John Walker, who invented the friction

match in 1827 after seeing that a stick

coated with chemicals burst into flames

Who’s who

when scraped across his hearth. A more

recent scientific star from the area is the

award-winning former Chief Medical

Officer to the UK, Sir Liam Donaldson.

Teesside is also well represented on

the international art scene. Glasgow-

born Christopher Dresser, the

father of modern industrial design,

established the Linthorpe Art Pottery

(see p.22) in Middlesbrough; William Tillyer, the highly acclaimed artist, was

born in Middlesbrough and has had his

work displayed at mima (see pp.39–40);

and Sir Antony Gormley’s Gateshead

sculpture, the Angel of the North, was

created in the Tees Valley.

The autism campaigner Anna Kennedy OBE also comes from

Middlesbrough. The mother, author

and advisor is an honorary graduate of

Teesside University for her work with

children on the autistic spectrum.

Local literary luminaries include

Richard Milward, who was awarded

Antony Gormley’s Angel of the North

Championships; wheelchair racer Jade Jones, who studies at Teesside University

while training for the Paralympics; and

the British Olympic swimmer Aimee Willmott, who trained at the Neptune

Centre pools in Middlesbrough.

Celebrities with strong Teesside

connections include Hollywood film

director Sir Ridley Scott, who grew

up in Stockton; Hollywood actor

Jamie Bell; Franc Roddam, director

of the film Quadrophenia and founder

of TV show Masterchef; musicians

Paul Rodgers, Chris Rea and David Coverdale; comedians Bob Mortimer

and Vic Reeves; and BBC Breakfast

television presenter Steph McGovern.

Comedians Vic Reeves and Bob Mortimer

BBC Breakfast presenter Steph McGovern

an Honorary Doctorate from Teesside

University and is considered one of the

country’s most inventive young writers,

and Pat Barker, who won the Booker

Prize in 1995 for The Ghost Road.

In sport, Teessider Brian Clough,

the charismatic football manager,

is honoured with a bronze statue in

Albert Park. Self-made millionaire Steve Gibson is the chairman and owner of

Middlesbrough Football Club. Chris Tomlinson held the British long-jump

record continuously from 2002 to

2009. Beth Mead is a prolific striker

with Sunderland in the Women’s Super

League. Up-and-coming local athletes

include pro cyclist Harry Tanfield, who

has completed one Tour de Yorkshire;

sprinter Richard Kilty, who won gold

for the 60m at the 2014 World Indoor

15INTRODUCING TEESSIDE

With world-class art and dance, exciting

live-music and a lively boating scene,

Teesside offers some dazzling dates for

the diary. Dates may vary each year.

February✪ Animex (mid-Feb) This international

festival of animation and computer

games, held at Teesside University, is the

largest of its kind in the UK.

March✪ Stockton Calling (month varies) A

one-day festival held on Easter Sunday,

featuring some of the best up-and-

coming acts from the UK and beyond.

April✪ Darlington Beer Festival (month

varies) Enjoy thirty independent

ales, ciders and perries, and music

at the Forum.

Cultural events✪ Stockton Duathlon Festival (end

Apr) This run-cycle-run challenge

attracts both novices and elite athletes.

✪ Whitby Goth Weekend (also Oct)

A weekend celebrating alternative

lifestyles linked to Whitby’s connections

with Bram Stoker’s novel Dracula.

May✪ Stockton Beer Festival (month

varies) Held at various venues, this beer

bonanza offers more than eighty brews

on tap.

✪ Tees Regatta (mid-May) The only

buoyed, multi-laned event in the north

of England, this Stockton festival attracts

rowers of all ages and abilities.

June✪ Stockton Cycling Festival (month

varies) A four-day celebration of

cycling, with bundles of family appeal.

Billingham International Folklore Festival

16

In 2016, The British Cycling National

Road Championships takes place over

the same weekend.

July✪ The Cleveland Show (late Jul) An

agricultural show held at Stewart Park

in Middlesbrough. Highlights include

craft and horticulture contests and the

presence of a host of farm animals.

✪ Middlesbrough Mela (month varies

according to Ramadan) The northeast’s

best multicultural celebration in

Centre Square features international

food and live music.

August✪ Stockton International Riverside Festival (SIRF) (early Aug) Street

theatre, circus, dance, music and

pyrotechnics define this four-day arts

event along the Tees.

✪ Billingham International Folklore Festival (mid-Aug) A must for lovers of

traditional dance and song from around

the world.

✪ Whitby Regatta (late Aug) Four days

of boat races, free entertainment and

fireworks, held every year since 1847.

✪ Stockton River Rat Race

(mid-Aug) A 5km or 10km obstacle

race around the Tees ending with

a fun walk-the-plank challenge off

HM Bark Endeavour.

September✪ Festival of Thrift (mid-Sep) A fun

celebration of the art of saving money.

✪ Middlesbrough Town Meal (mid-

Sep) This communal feast celebrates

local and sustainable food.

✪ Staithes Festival (mid-Sep) More

than 100 cottages and public buildings

are transformed into pop-up galleries

with works by local and visiting artists.

October✪ Discover Middlesbrough Festival (late Oct) A celebration of the town’s

heritage with a “Magical History Tour” in

a vintage bus, talks and exhibitions.

✪ Twisterella (early Oct) A music

festival held in various venues around

Middlesbrough that showcases

up-and-coming bands.

November✪ Bonfire night (early Nov) Held at

Acklam and Middlesbrough rugby

clubs, Stockton Riverside, Seaton Carew

seafront and Skinningrove.

✪ Christmas lights and Reindeer Parade (end Nov) The fabulous switch-

on ceremony in Middlesbrough.

December✪ Stockton Sparkles Festival (end

Nov–Christmas Eve) A winter festival

with music and dancing.

17

Teesside University

A massive investment programme is transforming campus facilities in both

Middlesbrough and Darlington. Teesside University attracts around 20,000 students

from more than 100 countries. So what’s life like here from the students’ perspective?

HARRY TANFIELD, 21

Home town: Great Ayton, North Yorkshire

Civil Engineering student and professional cyclist

“I chose the university because it’s local to me, has excellent

sports facilities and a support network. The course offered

everything I was looking for. If I’m not at uni, I’m riding my bike.

I go racing and training on the cycle track and new velodrome at Middlesbrough

Sports Village on Marton Road. They have high-quality facilities.”

ROSEMARY STUBBS, 23Home town: Middlesbrough

Cultural History MA student

“Growing up in Middlesbrough meant I knew just how great it is to

live and study in this town. Middlesbrough is a really exciting place

to be. With so many great independent venues across the town,

there is always something new to check out. Teesside has countryside and seaside

to enjoy, and is well connected to major cities in the North East and beyond.”

EMMA ROCHE, 24

Home town: Newcastle upon Tyne

Food and Nutrition student

“Out of the three universities I visited, this was the one that made

me feel most welcome. From the first open day I attended, I felt

the lecturers were approachable and that I would be supported

at this university. I also like that everything is on one site and is easily accessible. In

my spare time, I enjoy bowling, going to the cinema, shopping and walking.”

18 MINI ROUGH GUIDE TO TEESSIDE

BRUNA SILVA, 22Home town: London

Chemical Engineering student and 2016–17 Student Union President

“I was born in Goiânia, Brazil, and moved to England when I was

10 years old. I chose Teesside University due to its chemical-

industry connections around the area and its accredited course.

I like how the student community feels so close and everything you need is only a

short walk away. That goes for the shops, a good selection of restaurants serving

European and global cuisines, plus the greenery and open spaces of Albert and

Stewart parks. Middlesbrough is ideal for a night out, as the pubs and clubs are all

within walking distance, which is so much easier than in a big city like London. I also

like being so close to places where I can go walking – Roseberry Topping is one of

my favourite locations. By the seaside, at Saltburn-by-the-Sea, they do the best fish

and chips I’ve ever eaten.”

The new Curve building on the Middlesbrough campus

19INTRODUCING TEESSIDE

The towns of

Teesside are not

only blessed

with a surprising

number of green spaces, but

are also close

to magnificent beaches and

the beautiful rolling hills of the North York Moors National Park. In fact,

outdoorsy visitors to the region will

be spoilt for choice: you might head

to the expansive sand dunes between

the Gare peninsula and Redcar for a

spot of birdwatching; join the joggers

in Middlesbrough’s Albert Park and

Stewart Park (see p.41); or opt for a lazy

cruise on the Teesside Princess down the

River Tees to the old port of Yarm.

In Middlesbrough, Albert Park is a big

hit with roller-skaters, tennis players

Green spaces

and boating enthusiasts, while over at

Stewart Park – location of the Captain Cook Birthplace Museum – you’ll find

some lovely historic parkland, lakes, a

pet corner and an assault course.

Teesmouth National Nature Reserve (see p.47), over near the

coast, is 3.5 square kilometres of

wilderness right beside one of Britain’s

largest concentrations of industry.

Look out for grey seals basking on the

mudflats in the harbour; if you visit in

late June or early July, you might even

see the pups.

Seal Sands, a few miles to the south,

is one of the largest areas of intertidal

mudflats on England’s northeast coast.

When the tide is out here, you’ll see

hundreds of waders, including redshank

and dunlin, pecking through the mud

looking for food. Close to Seal Sands

Snow in Albert Park

Sunset over Seal Sands

“Middlesbrough offers the ability to be able to escape to the country... The countryside and coast around Middlesbrough are very special.” – William Tillyer,

Middlesbrough-born, internationally

renowned artist and mima exhibitor

20 INTRODUCING TEESSIDE

lies Saltholme (see p.47), an RSPB

wildlife reserve with a state-of-the-art

visitor centre, a café and spectacular

views out over the wetlands. You can

also buy all manner of birdwatching

paraphernalia here.

Travel a little way further south, to the

southern outskirts of Middlesbrough,

and you’ll come across the scenic Flatts Lane Woodland Country Park. This

spot is known for its stunning views of

the Eston Hills, industrial Teesside and

the North York Moors. Untamed Eston

The lovely North York Moors National Park

Moor, the Eston Nab Iron Age hillfort,

the distinctive hill known as Roseberry Topping (see p.31) and glorious

Guisborough Forest (see p.51) are all

within walking distance of the park.

Further afield lies the ruggedly

beautiful North York Moors National Park, famous for its purple heather. Be

sure to visit the ruins of Rievaulx Abbey

and the Hole of Horcum, one of the

most spectacular features in the park

– a huge natural amphitheatre that is

122m deep and about a kilometre wide.

The starting place for art-lovers in

Middlesbrough has to be mima, on

Centre Square – an award-winning

building designed by Dutch architect

Erick van Egeraat that exhibits exciting

contemporary art and craft including

superbly designed jewellery (see also

p.39). Don’t miss the Giovanni Corvaja

bracelet, made using 2km of fine gold

and with an estimated value of £40,000,

or the snake-like necklace by Nel

Linssen, made from hundreds of folded

pieces of paper.

Displays at the Platform-A Gallery (see p.39), at Middlesbrough Railway

Station, showcase emerging and

established artists, while the Heritage Gallery at Cargo Fleet (see p.39), on

Middlesbrough Road, explores the

Galleries and museumshistory of Teesside in creative ways.

At the Dorman Museum, on Linthorpe

Road, tribute is paid to Christopher

Dresser (see p.14), who revolutionized

industrial design. Its Linthorpe Art Pottery gallery – an important part of

the town’s artistic heritage – contains

hundreds of ceramic pieces based

on his designs. It also exhibits many

everyday objects by Dresser, including

the stylish toast racks and chairs he

made for Victorian families.

If history’s your thing, then you’ll

be spoilt for choice with the region’s

many memorials to Captain Cook

(see pp.10–11). The Captain Cook

Left: The Dresser Gallery at the Dorman Museum Above: A chocolate sculpture by the Cercle d’Art des Travailleurs de Plantation Congolaise at mima

22 INTRODUCING TEESSIDE

Birthplace Museum (see p.41) in

Stewart Park chronicles the life and

times of the great British explorer. Then

there’s the Captain Cook Schoolroom Museum at Great Ayton (see p.50),

where he spent some of his youth, and

the Captain Cook Memorial Museum

at Whitby, to the east. The full-size

replica of Cook’s beloved HM Bark

Endeavour (see pp.42–43) is berthed at

Stockton’s Castlegate Quay and can be

viewed by appointment.

To delve further into local history,

visit Ormesby Hall (see p.41), an

eighteenth century National Trust

mansion in Ormesby. Don’t miss

the impressive plasterwork or the

fascinating model-railway exhibition.

Another residence in the area that’s

open to the public is the recently

restored Preston Hall (see also p.43).

Nestling alongside the River Tees, this

museum, inside the former Georgian

home of industrial magnate Robert

Ropner, tells the story of the vital role

the river played in the region’s industrial

development.

Further afield, at Hartlepool’s Maritime Experience, you can climb

aboard the 1817 HMS Trincomalee

(see also p.48), the oldest British warship

that is still afloat today. Find out about

the “iron men” who sailed this historic

vessel, and view The Wingfield Castle,

a restored River Humber paddle

steamer dating from 1934.

The Captain Cook Birthplace Museum

Jewellery on display at mima

A series of impressive sculptures can be

viewed on a public art walk through

Middlesbrough (see map, pp.36–37),

allowing visitors the opportunity to

explore the town’s rich artistic character.

Begin at the statue of the football

legend Brian Clough in Albert Park,

created by Vivien Mallock. Nearby, you’ll

see the cenotaph and Brian Alabaster’s

bronze depiction of World War II soldier

Stan Hollis in a crouched charge,

machine gun in hand. Hollis won the

Victoria Cross in 1944 (see p.16). From

here, walk north to Victoria Road where

you’ll find Starhead by Paul Neagu and

then on to see Simeon Nelson’s Cactal

– a piece of floating art attached to

Teesside University’s Phoenix Building.

Further north, in Centre Square, admire

the 9m-high Bottle of Notes by American

sculptors Claes Oldenburg and Coosje van Bruggen, which was inspired by

Captain Cook’s maritime achievements.

Next stop is Linthorpe Road to

see the colourful Canopy by Martin Donlin, who won a competition

to design a meeting place for local

people. At the junction of Linthorpe

Road and Newport Road, you’ll

find Peter Freeman’s Spectra-Txt, a

10m-high mirrored column with a

futuristic form that recalls the sci-fi

blockbuster Blade Runner, directed by

South Shields-born Ridley Scott.

Next, head for Middlehaven Dock

to see the impressive Temenos by

Anish Kapoor. This huge sculpture

features an iconic pair of £2.7-million

metal rings, which are pulled together

by a mesh of steel cable (see also

p.38). Nearby, you’ll find the turquoise

40,000 years of Modern Art by Bernard Carpenter and Kandi Sky by Pierre

Sculpture trail

The Stan Hollis memorial

24 MINI ROUGH GUIDE TO TEESSIDE

Diamantopoulo – a 22m-wide

abstract representation of a learning

curve that forms the gateway arch to

the award-winning Middlesbrough

College building.

From the Dock, it’s worth taking

a short ride east to the Cargo Fleet

roundabout to see the Blaze sculpture

by Ian McChesney, which catches the

light beautifully. Further along the A66,

at the Nelson Street roundabout, is

the impressive Ladle of Steel by Steve Tomlinson. When it’s lit up at night, this

atmospheric tribute to Teesside’s “men of

steel” really does look like molten metal

pouring out of a giant bucket.

xxPaul Neagu’s Starhead

Bottle of Notes, by Claes Oldenburg and Coosje van Bruggen

25INTRODUCING TEESSIDE

Sports

Middlesbrough’s Riverside Stadium, lit up at night

The must-see sight for football fans

in Middlesbrough is the Riverside Stadium, situated on the banks of

the River Tees. Explore the home of

much-loved “Boro” – Middlesbrough Football Club – on a guided tour,

which allows access to restricted

areas, including the press box, the

control room and the players’ dressing

rooms. The team was saved from

liquidation in 1986 by local millionaire

businessman and “Boro” fanatic, Steve Gibson, and went on to win the

League Cup in 2004. Check out the

boulevard outside the stadium, which

is paved with bricks adorned with

messages from 3000 supporters and

50 former players and managers.

Rowing is another source of regional

pride. Teessider Kat Copeland rowed to

Olympic Gold in 2012 with teammate

Sophie Hosking. The star, who learnt to

row at Yarm School and Tees Rowing Club in Stockton, was awarded the MBE

and named joint winner of the BBC North

East Sports Personality of the Year in

2012. Her achievement was a huge boost

for Tees Rowing Club, which, in 2014,

celebrated its 150th anniversary and

employed a professional coach for the

first time. The club runs the Tees Regatta

(see p.16) – the only formal rowing event

of its kind in the north of England, which

attracts competitors aged 14–74.

The arrival of the Tour de Yorkshire

in Middlesbrough in May 2016 has

26 INTRODUCING TEESSIDE

coincided with major improvements

in facilities for cyclists. The superb

Middlesbrough Sports Village, an

£18-million development, includes

an Olympic-size velodrome and the

Middlesbrough Cycle Circuit (see also

p.31). Among its many other facilities

are an athletic stadium, a sports hall,

grass pitches, a skate park and a gym. Both Teesside University and

Middlesbrough College also boast

first-class sports facilities, from

floodlit, artificial turf pitches to smart

new fitness suites. Tennis World,

which is adjacent to Stewart Park in

Middlesbrough, is a long-established

club, which features four indoor tennis

courts, four floodlit clay courts, three

artificial grass courts and three

high-performance cushion courts.

There are climbing walls at GoClimb inside Billingham Forum (a sports

and leisure complex which also has an

ice rink), at Teesside University and

at Rockantics on Warelands Way in

Middlesbrough.

The athletic track at Middlesbrough Sports Village

Teesside offers endless fun for lovers

of the great outdoors. For the most

adventurous types, there’s white-water

rafting, surfing and bungee jumping

and, for those who prefer more relaxing

outdoor pastimes, there’s fishing,

bowling and trail walking.

Adrenaline junkies should not miss

skydiving with Skydive St George

at Durham Tees Valley Airport or

go-karting at Teesside Karting, which

boasts “the world’s longest and fastest

karting circuit”. There’s hair-raising water

sports at the Tees Barrage White Water Rafting Centre, where a £4.6-million

redevelopment project has created a

Outdoor activitiesworld-class playground for both skilled

boatmen and novices. Test out one of

the powerboats or try your hand at

flat-water canoeing, bell boating or

sailing. This is also where you’ll find the

new Air Trail Tees Barrage, the tallest

high-ropes course of its kind in the UK.

If you want to improve your boat-handling skills on the River Tees, the

Teesside Nautical Studies training centre

at the Tees Transporter Bridge promises

an exciting experience on its powerboat

courses. The bridge, which is the largest

working transporter bridge in the

world and a symbol of Middlesbrough’s

engineering might, is the only bridge in

Rafting on the Tees Barrage International White Water Course

28 INTRODUCING TEESSIDE

England from which you can bungee jump. You can also abseil from it. At

Stockton, the River Tees Watersports Centre – the home of Tees Rowing

Club – caters for rowing, canoeing and

kayaking. Even closer to the white water,

though, is Saltburn-by-the-Sea’s surfing

community. Go and see the experts in

action, join a surf school or hire a board

and simply give it a go yourself. Saltburn

is reputed to be one of the top ten places

in the UK for surfing.

Middlesbrough Skate Park in Prissick

Plaza, right next to Stewart Park, is one

of the area’s best skate parks. The huge,

floodlit space is ideal for BMX bikes,

skateboards, scooters and inline skates. An Olympic-size velodrome

opened in 2015, as part of the new

Middlesbrough Sports Village.

For those who want to explore rural

Teesside, Middlesbrough’s Unicorn Centre offers riding therapy and

training for disabled

adults and children,

as well as able-bodied

riders. Other activities

around the region

include bowls in

Albert Park and golf

at Wynyard Hall and

Rockliffe Hall (see p.58)

– Europe’s longest

golf course. Cycling

and walking are also popular; for more

information on these, see pp.30–31.

Surfer, Saltburn-by-the-Sea

Unicorn Centre

Walking and cycling routesorienteering and assault courses, a

sculpture trail and cycling. Walking

and wildlife enthusiasts should check

out Saltholme wildlife reserve (see

p.47), just north of Middlesbrough, and

Teesmouth National Nature Reserve

on the coast. At the Tees Barrage,

you might spot seals, newts, otters,

kingfishers, cormorants and deer while

you walk and cycle.

Further afield, the North York Moors National Park offers good walks for

all abilities; for more information,

head to the visitor centres at Sutton

Bank and Danby. The Cleveland Way

The distinctively shaped Roseberry Topping

Teesside’s gorgeous, rolling countryside

offers the perfect environment for

walkers and cyclists who are looking

for breathtaking scenery, some good

exercise and a large dose of fresh air.

The Teesdale Way is a must for

walkers who are intent on discovering

Middlesbrough’s industrial heritage.

The 148km trail follows the banks of

the River Tees as it passes from the high

moorlands of Cumbria and Durham to

the industrial landscapes of Teesside.

From Middlesbrough Dock, the

17km Tees Link walking route links

up to the Cleveland Way national trail

(see p.51). Hikers will find picturesque

routes in nearby Guisborough Forest (see p.51), which also offers

30 INTRODUCING TEESSIDE

passes through the park, which also

encompasses much of the “dinosaur

coast” – so called because of the fossils

found along it (see p.49). Alternatively, be

one of the first walkers on the Hartlepool

to Sunderland section of a new National

Trail – the England Coast Path.

Perhaps the area’s best-loved walk,

however, is the path to the summit of

Roseberry Topping, a hill located on the

northwestern edge of the park. Captain

Cook loved this spot, which has also

long been a special place for renowned

local mountaineer Alan Hinkes OBE.

Keen cyclists should head for

the Olympic-size Middlesbrough Velodrome, which opened at

Middlesbrough Sports Village in 2015,

or to the Middlesbrough Cycle Circuit,

a 1km enclosed route with a 6m-wide

tarmac surface at the same location.

For details of eight cycling routes in

and around town, visit Middlesbrough

Council’s website (lovemiddlesbrough.

com/cycling). Cycling, both for families

and for serious pedal pushers, is catered

for in the North York Moors National Park, where there are purpose-built

tracks and bikes for hire at visitor centres.

The Middlesbrough Cycle Centre is

a fantastic support hub for cyclists that

provides secure parking for your bike in

the town centre, advice and training.

The North York Moors National Park

Cyclists on the Cleveland Way

Teesside offers every kind of activity

imaginable to keep the kids happy.

The skateboarding and roller-blading

at Middlesbrough Skate Park, pets

corner and a Captain Cook-themed

play area in adjacent Stewart Park,

pedalo boats in Albert Park and

bowling at Teesside Shopping Park

are just the tip of the iceberg.

For toddlers, indoor soft-play areas

can be found at the Fun Village at

Middlesbrough Sports Village and

Children’s activities

at Our Funhouse at Coulby Farm in

Middlesbrough; Fun City and Preston Farm in Stockton; Noahs Ark Family Centre and Crazy Corner in Thornaby;

and, further east, at Wacky Warehouse

at Wheatlands Farm in Redcar.

If you’re looking for child-friendly

culture, Middlesbrough Theatre offers

an exciting family programme. At

mima, there are year-round events for

youngsters, while the Dorman Museum

offers craft sessions for children.

On a zip wire at Go Ape, Dalby Forest

For the latest films, make for the

14-screen Showcase Cinemas at

Teesside Shopping Park or the 11-screen

Cineworld Cinemas in Middlesbrough.

Facilities at myplace on North Street – a

state-of-the-art centre for young people

– include a theatre, a recording studio

and an alcohol-free nightclub (see p.57).

Young swimmers are well catered for

in Middlesbrough. Try the Rainbow Leisure Centre in Coulby Newham,

south of the centre, and the Neptune Centre on Ormesby Road, where

Olympic swimmer Aimee Willmott

started out. Splash, at Stockton, boasts

a 25m pool with a wave machine.

Wildlife-lovers can interact with farm

animals at Newham Grange Country Farm in Coulby Newham, where you

can also lose yourself in a willow maze

and visit the farm shop. A daytime

boat trip on the Teesside Princess

always goes down well with families;

the cruise begins at Castlegate Quay

in Stockton, goes through Preston Park (see p.23) and on to the charming

market town of Yarm.

A more energetic option is Jump 360 in Stockton, an indoor trampoline

park with more than 100 connected

trampolines for all ages, a dodgeball

court, basketball lanes and foam pits.

For a special day out, take a trip to the

Lightwater Valley theme park, where

kids can ride a roller coaster, explore

the atmospheric “Skeleton Cove” or

have fun at the Angry Birds Activity

Park. Another option is Go Ape at Dalby

Forest in the North York Moors National

Park. This tree-top adventure course has

wires, Tarzan swings and rope ladders,

while Flamingo Land, to the south of

the national park, is a theme park, zoo

and holiday resort combined. Finally,

Hartlepool’s Maritime Experience is

a real winner with children, with its full-

size, wooden adventure play ship.

Middlesbrough Skate Park

Playing with crafts at mima

33INTRODUCING TEESSIDE

MiddlesbroughThis proud town on the River Tees was

once the industrial powerhouse of the

world. Today, Middlesbrough’s industrial

heritage forms a striking backdrop to a

thriving town that boasts world-class

cultural attractions, an outstanding

university and great shopping,

entertainment and nightlife.

The work of Teesside steelworkers

stretches right across the world and

includes many famous bridges – the

Sydney Harbour Bridge in Australia, the

Bangkok Memorial Bridge in Thailand,

and, closer to home, the Tyne Bridge

in Newcastle and Middlesbrough’s

very own Tees Transporter Bridge. Anish Kapoor’s Temenos sculpture

Paddling in the rock pools at Robin Hood’s Bay; Stockton International Riverside Festival; a ram in the North York Moors National Park

34

AROUND TEESSIDE

AROUND TEESSIDE

Since opening in 1911, this bridge has

been a local landmark and it’s now the

only bridge of its kind still operating in

England. A gondola suspended 49m

above the water by steel cables carries

cars and pedestrians across a 259m

stretch of the river. The bright-blue

structure, which reopened in 2015

following a £4-million restoration,

looks like a bridge on tall legs – or, with

a bit of imagination, two steelworkers

clasping hands over the Tees. The

bridge was designed to allow the

masts of large sailing vessels to pass

underneath. You can now take the

Bridge Lift to the top and visit the

Transporter Bridge Visitor Centre.

The iconic structure sits at the

threshold of the town’s Middlehaven

district – a vibrant dockland area

that is, after years of decline, being

transformed into a new urban quarter.

Settle in at the Brasserie Hudson Quay (see p.60) restaurant and admire

the panorama over the regenerated

1842 Middlesbrough Dock. Here,

the Tees Transporter Bridge and Dock Clock Tower, dating from 1847, stand

alongside more modern structures,

including new Community In A Cube (CIAC) eco-home apartments, the

awarding-winning Middlesbrough College building, the Riverside Stadium (see p.26) – home of

The Tees Transporter Bridge

Tees Link

ESHWOODSQUARE

EXCHANGESQUARE

ALBERTBRIDGE

HILL

ST

METZBRIDGE

HEYW

OOD STREET

A1032

N E WPORT R OAD

N E W P O RT ROA D

LINT

HORP

E RO

AD

BRIDGE STREET WESTNORTH ROAD

B6541 N

E WPORT R

OAD

SHEPHERDSON WAY

CARGO FLEET ROAD

LONG

FORD

STR

EET

U N I O N S T R E E T

PA R K ROA D N O RT H

AY R E S O M E S T R E E T

PARK

RD

STH

LANSDOWNE RD

DOUGLAS STREET

ROSEBERRY RD

BILSDALE RD

BRECKON HILL ROADWELLESLEY ROAD

P A R L I A M E N T R O A D

CRESCENT ROAD

MILLS ST

CARL

OW S

TREE

T

KILD

ARE S

TREE

TES

SEX

S

TREE

T

COST

A ST

AIRE

STW

ORCE

STER

STRE

ETLEVEN S T

LEINSTER ST

FINS

BURY

ST

CRAV

EN ST

TENN

YSON

ST

LAYCOCK ST

ORWELL ST

LAM

PORT

ST

VICTORIA STREET

GRETA STDERW

ENT STREET

ENFI

ELD

ST

OUTRAM STREET

GRESHAM ROAD

GLEBE RD

ALBERT TERR

GRANVILLE ROAD

PARK LANEPARK LANE

KENSINGTON ROADCLOUGH CLOS E

ACTO

N

S

T

AUBR

EY

ST

ERRO

L

ST

HADD

ON S

T

ROSC

OE S

T

V I C TO R I A R OA D

WATE R LO O R OAD

S O U T H F I E L D R O A D

B O R O U G H R OA D

B O R O U G H R OA D

GRANGE RD

LINT

HORP

E RD

ALBE

RT R

D

ALBE

RT R

D

CLARENDON RD

STEP

HENS

ON S

T MEL

ROSE

ST

MAP

LE ST

MYR

TLE

STAB

INGD

ON R

OAD

NEW

LAND

S

ROA D

TALB

OT S

T

SOUTHFIELD LANE

WILT

ON ST

PARK

VALE

ROA

D

PARK

VAL

E RO

ADCR

OYDO

N RO

AD

BYELANDS STLOTHIAN ROAD

NEWSTEAD RD

ANGLE STREET

EGMONT ROAD

MARTON ROAD

MARTON ROAD

NUT LANE

HUTTO N ROAD

SALTWELLS ROAD

WARE

L ANDSWAY

LYTTON STREET

NORTH ORMESBY ROAD

LIVERTON AVE

BISHOP ST WES T LANE

A IDAN COURT

AYRE

SOM

E RO

AD

C A N NON

ST

CANNON STREET

MARSH STREET CANNON PARK ROAD

CECIL ST

CANNON PARK WAY

LEES ROAD

WENTWORTH STMANOR ST

WALPOLE ST PRINCES ROAD

PRINCES ROAD

KINGSTON ST

PEEL ST

PELH

AM

S

TRU

BY S

T

PEAR

L ST

GARNET ST

BOW ST CLIFTON STREET

ATHO

L ST

PERC

Y ST

ALBA

NY S

TPO

RTM

AN

S

T

STOW

E ST

ST PAUL’S ROAD

ST PAUL’S ROAD

GRANGE ROAD

BREN

TNA L

L ST

GILKES ST

HARR

IS ST

BEDFORD STBAKER ST

NEWPORT RD

WIL

SON

ST

WILSON ST

ALBE

RT M

EWS

CO R P O R AT IO N ROAD

OAK ST

ELM

S

T

FRY ST

ABIN

GDON

RD

BRIG

HT

S

T

GRANGE ROAD

RUSSELL ST

GRANGE ST R E E T

ELSTONE R OAD

WEST TERRACE

ALPHONSUS STREET

WINDWA R D WAYTHE LEEWAY

STATION STREETMARSH ROAD

SNOW

DON ROAD

GOSFORD ST

RICHMOND ST

ALBE

RT ST

SCOTT’S ROAD

DOCK STREET

BRIDGE ST E AST

GRAY

STRE

ET

LOWER EAST ST

EAST ST

LOWER FEVERSHAM ST

FEVERSHAM ST

NILE ST

BROUGHAM ST

LLOY

D ST

STOCK

TON ST

COMMERCIAL STREET

VULCAN STREET

CHARLOTTE ST

ITALY

ST

MARSH ROADFO

RTY

FOOT

ROA

D

RIVE

RSID

E PA

RK R

OAD

METZ BRIDGE RD

CLEV

ELAND ST

DUND

AS M

S

DUND

AS ST

T HE HALYARD

LINT

HORP

E RD

THE BOULEVARDCENTRE SQUARE

B1272

WEST ST

NORT

H ST FE R RY R D

DURH

AM ST

REET

TOWERGREEN

A 1 0 L O N G L A N D S R O A D

A172

H A R T I N G TO N R O A D

A 1 032

B127

2

A178

A66

A66

Brian CloughStatue

Cenotaph &Stan Hollis

Memorial

Temenos

Kandi Sky

40,000 Yearsof Modern Art

Bottle ofNotes

Starhead

Cactal

Spectra-txt

Canopy

TeessideUniversity

Students’Union

TheSouthfieldPub

DormanMuseum

ForbesBuildings

Riverside Stadium(Middlesbrough FC)

ClevelandCentre

Hill StreetCentre

MiddlesbroughCycle Centre

DundasArcade

TownHall

GalleryTS1 Jurys Inn

TeessideArchives& House ofBlah Blah

The Empire

Cineworld

MiddlesbroughCollege

Dock ClockTower

CIAC

Tees(Newport)Bridge

mima CentralLibrary

Holiday InnExpress

Old TownHall

Tees Transporter Bridge

BohoZone

Python Gallery

Platform AGallery

myplace

CaptainCook

SquareTravelodge

TeessideUniversity

ConstantineGallery

BrasserieHudson Quay

Alber t Park

AyresomeGardens

LinthorpeCemetery

Rail Station

Bus Station

Riv

er T

ees

R iver Tees

MiddlesbroughDock

MIDDLEHAVEN

NEWPORT

Cargo Fleet Wharf

Hartlepool

Stoc

kton

-on-

Tees Blaze, Heritage Gallery & Ladle of Steel

Neptune Centre

Middlesbrough Sports Village, Tennis World, Stewart Park & Middlesbrough Skate Park Middlesbrough TheatreTees Barrage, Tees Leisure Park, Teesside Shopping Park & Darlington

N

2500

yards

MIDDLESBROUGH

36 MINI ROUGH GUIDE TO TEESSIDE

Tees Link

ESHWOODSQUARE

EXCHANGESQUARE

ALBERTBRIDGE

HILL

ST

METZBRIDGE

HEYW

OOD STREET

A1032

N E WPORT R OAD

N E W P O RT ROA D

LINT

HORP

E RO

AD

BRIDGE STREET WESTNORTH ROAD

B6541 N

E WPORT R

OAD

SHEPHERDSON WAY

CARGO FLEET ROAD

LONG

FORD

STR

EET

U N I O N S T R E E T

PA R K ROA D N O RT H

AY R E S O M E S T R E E T

PARK

RD

STH

LANSDOWNE RD

DOUGLAS STREET

ROSEBERRY RD

BILSDALE RD

BRECKON HILL ROADWELLESLEY ROAD

P A R L I A M E N T R O A D

CRESCENT ROAD

MILLS ST

CARL

OW S

TREE

T

KILD

ARE S

TREE

TES

SEX

S

TREE

T

COST

A ST

AIRE

STW

ORCE

STER

STRE

ET

LEVEN S T

LEINSTER ST

FINS

BURY

ST

CRAV

EN ST

TENN

YSON

ST

LAYCOCK ST

ORWELL ST

LAM

PORT

ST

VICTORIA STREET

GRETA STDERW

ENT STREET

ENFI

ELD

ST

OUTRAM STREET

GRESHAM ROAD

GLEBE RD

ALBERT TERR

GRANVILLE ROAD

PARK LANEPARK LANE

KENSINGTON ROADCLOUGH CLOS E

ACTO

N

S

T

AUBR

EY

ST

ERRO

L

ST

HADD

ON S

T

ROSC

OE S

T

V I C TO R I A R OA D

WATE R LO O R OAD

S O U T H F I E L D R O A D

B O R O U G H R OA D

B O R O U G H R OA D

GRANGE RD

LINT

HORP

E RD

ALBE

RT R

D

ALBE

RT R

D

CLARENDON RD

STEP

HENS

ON S

T MEL

ROSE

ST

MAP

LE ST

MYR

TLE

STAB

INGD

ON R

OAD

NEW

LAND

S

ROA D

TALB

OT S

T

SOUTHFIELD LANE

WILT

ON ST

PARK

VALE

ROA

D

PARK

VAL

E RO

ADCR

OYDO

N RO

ADBYELANDS ST

LOTHIAN ROAD

NEWSTEAD RD

ANGLE STREET

EGMONT ROAD

MARTON ROAD

MARTON ROAD

NUT LANE

HUTTO N ROAD

SALTWELLS ROAD

WARE

L ANDSWAY

LYTTON STREET

NORTH ORMESBY ROAD

LIVERTON AVE

BISHOP ST WES T LANE

A IDAN COURT

AYRE

SOM

E RO

AD

C A N NON

ST

CANNON STREET

MARSH STREET CANNON PARK ROAD

CECIL ST

CANNON PARK WAY

LEES ROAD

WENTWORTH STMANOR ST

WALPOLE ST PRINCES ROAD

PRINCES ROAD

KINGSTON ST

PEEL ST

PELH

AM

S

TRU

BY S

T

PEAR

L ST

GARNET ST

BOW ST CLIFTON STREET

ATHO

L ST

PERC

Y ST

ALBA

NY S

TPO

RTM

AN

S

T

STOW

E ST

ST PAUL’S ROAD

ST PAUL’S ROAD

GRANGE ROAD

BREN

TNA L

L ST

GILKES ST

HARR

IS ST

BEDFORD STBAKER ST

NEWPORT RD

WIL

SON

ST

WILSON ST

ALBE

RT M

EWS

CO R P O R AT IO N ROAD

OAK ST

ELM

S

T

FRY ST

ABIN

GDON

RD

BRIG

HT

S

T

GRANGE ROAD

RUSSELL ST

GRANGE ST R E E T

ELSTONE R OAD

WEST TERRACE

ALPHONSUS STREET

WINDWA R D WAYTHE LEEWAY

STATION STREETMARSH ROAD

SNOW

DON ROAD

GOSFORD ST

RICHMOND ST

ALBE

RT ST

SCOTT’S ROAD

DOCK STREET

BRIDGE ST E AST

GRAY

STRE

ET

LOWER EAST ST

EAST ST

LOWER FEVERSHAM ST

FEVERSHAM ST

NILE ST

BROUGHAM ST

LLOY

D ST

STOCK

TON ST

COMMERCIAL STREET

VULCAN STREET

CHARLOTTE ST

ITALY

ST

MARSH ROAD

FORT

Y FO

OT R

OAD

RIVE

RSID

E PA

RK R

OAD

METZ BRIDGE RD

CLEV

ELAND ST

DUND

AS M

S

DUND

AS ST

T HE HALYARD

LINT

HORP

E RD

THE BOULEVARDCENTRE SQUARE

B1272

WEST ST

NORT

H ST FE R RY R D

DURH

AM ST

REET

TOWERGREEN

A 1 0 L O N G L A N D S R O A D

A172

H A R T I N G TO N R O A D

A 1 032

B127

2

A178

A66

A66

Brian CloughStatue

Cenotaph &Stan Hollis

Memorial

Temenos

Kandi Sky

40,000 Yearsof Modern Art

Bottle ofNotes

Starhead

Cactal

Spectra-txt

Canopy

TeessideUniversity

Students’Union

TheSouthfieldPub

DormanMuseum

ForbesBuildings

Riverside Stadium(Middlesbrough FC)

ClevelandCentre

Hill StreetCentre

MiddlesbroughCycle Centre

DundasArcade

TownHall

GalleryTS1 Jurys Inn

TeessideArchives& House ofBlah Blah

The Empire

Cineworld

MiddlesbroughCollege

Dock ClockTower

CIAC

Tees(Newport)Bridge

mima CentralLibrary

Holiday InnExpress

Old TownHall

Tees Transporter Bridge

BohoZone

Python Gallery

Platform AGallery

myplace

CaptainCook

SquareTravelodge

TeessideUniversity

ConstantineGallery

BrasserieHudson Quay

Alber t Park

AyresomeGardens

LinthorpeCemetery

Rail Station

Bus Station

Riv

er T

ees

R iver Tees

MiddlesbroughDock

MIDDLEHAVEN

NEWPORT

Cargo Fleet Wharf

Hartlepool

Stoc

kton

-on-

Tees Blaze, Heritage Gallery & Ladle of Steel

Neptune Centre

Middlesbrough Sports Village, Tennis World, Stewart Park & Middlesbrough Skate Park Middlesbrough TheatreTees Barrage, Tees Leisure Park, Teesside Shopping Park & Darlington

N

2500

yards

MIDDLESBROUGH

37MIDDLESBROUGH

Middlesbrough Football Club – and the

Temenos sculpture. This magnificent

work, which features in the new

British passport, was created by the

internationally renowned British

sculptor Anish Kapoor with the help

of architect Cecil Balmond. Standing

at 50m high and 120m long, Temenos

is a magnificent public artwork. Stand

underneath it to get a sense of its

enormous scale – it’s even taller than

Antony Gormley’s famous Angel of

the North sculpture at Gateshead.

“Temenos”, which means “sacred

ground” in Greek, is a reference to both

Middlesbrough and the home of the

town’s beloved football club. A fine steel

mesh, resembling a bridge across the

Tees, pulls the £2.7-million sculpture’s

pole and two rings together. Kapoor’s

aim was to create a structure that

had a “fragile” appearance, despite its

kilometre of steel cable.

Step back in time on a walk through

the streets around Ferry Road. On

nearby East Street you’ll see the

Old Town Hall, which was built in

1846, and the impressive Vulcan Street wall – the southern wall of

the old Cleveland Salt Works, dating

from 1887, which operated on the

land between here and the River

Tees. Don’t miss the 1837 Custom House on North Street, which has

been transformed into myplace, a

state-of-the-art meeting place for

Ironopolis by Ian Horn on Bridge Street East

exhibitions. The most exciting art

collection in town, however, has to be

the landmark mima (see also p.22).

Behind this building’s glass facade lies

a wonderful collection of art by such

groundbreaking artists as Grayson

Perry, Bridget Riley and Tracey Emin.

Inside the innovative gallery, don’t miss

the specialist collections of drawing and

British ceramics (make sure you book

on a collection tour). There’s also a great

collection of contemporary jewellery in

the Centre for Social Making, which

features the work of international jewellery artists, including Ted Noten,

Karl Fritsch and Wendy Ramshaw.

Middlesbrough Dock Clock Tower

young people (see pp.33 and 57).

Middlesbrough’s founding fathers –

the ironmasters, mayors and brothers-

in-law John Vaughan and Henry

Bolckow – lived side by side in the

three-storey brick buildings marked

with a plaque on Cleveland Street.

A short bus ride away to the east,

on Middlesbrough Road, is the

Heritage Gallery at Cargo Fleet,

which focuses on art relating to

Teesside’s industrial heritage. This

restored former headquarters of

British Steel shows work from

established artists and emerging

talent, in all styles and media.

Head into the town centre to take

your pick from a number of other

impressive art galleries, including the

contemporary Platform-A Gallery (see

p.22), the innovative House of Blah Blah in Exchange Square and Gallery TS1, on Corporation Road, with its

high-quality, affordable arts and crafts

by local artists. There’s also the Python Gallery on Gosford Street and Teesside

University’s Constantine Gallery, both

of which feature regular changing

39MIDDLESBROUGH

In addition, the venue hosts some

fascinating temporary exhibitions,

events and family-friendly programmes.

It’s not just the exhibitions and events

that make mima such an absorbing

place – the impressive building is a

sight in its own right. Take a moment to

look into its fully glazed, north-facing

exterior and observe the mesmerizing

movement on the inside, as well as

the impressive slate and limestone

staircase that reaches from the ground

floor up to the roof terrace. This superb

structure, designed by the Dutch

architect Erick van Egeraat (who also

designed Centre Square, just outside

the gallery), was completed in 2007.

Highlights of Centre Square include landscaped gardens, the

majestic Victorian Town Hall and

its accompanying row of listed red

telephone kiosks, the Central Library

and the iconic Bottle of Notes sculpture

– a 9m-tall work by Claes Oldenburg

and Coosje van Bruggen, which was

inspired by the journals of Captain Cook.

A stone’s throw from mima and

Centre Square lies historic Exchange Square, which has been cut in two by

the A66 flyover – a fast track for heavy

traffic that keeps the town’s streets free

from congestion. Don’t let that put

you off, though. The square is worth a

visit for the graceful, curved facade of

the Zetland Buildings and the statue

of one of Middlesbrough’s founding

fathers, Henry Bolckow.

Beyond the town centre, off Linthorpe

Road, lies King Edward’s Square, which

is home to some Teesside University

accommodation in the form of an 1890

Middlesbrough Town Hall

Brian Clough statue, Albert Park

terrace with arched windows and a

decorative cornice. A bit further down

Linthorpe Road, you’ll find the beautiful

Forbes Building, an old Victorian

bakery and stables that now houses a

variety of shops.

Just south of the university is the

lovely open space of Albert Park – a

gift from ironmaster Henry Bolckow

to the people of Middlesbrough

in 1868. The Grade-II-listed park

comprises an ornate bandstand, a

statue of football legend Brian Clough

(see p.15) and a cannon from the

Crimean War. The Dorman Museum,

beside the cenotaph on Linthorpe

Road, overlooks the park. As well as

celebrating Middlesbrough life, its

collections include everything from

natural history, social history, geology,

astronomy, to Victorian arts and craft.

Stewart Park , located in the

suburb of Marton, is another lovely

green space on the outskirts of town.

The park is home to the fascinating

Captain Cook Birthplace Museum – a

purpose-built building positioned near

the granite urn that marks the site of

the cottage where Cook was born.

The museum tells the story of one of

the world’s most famous navigators

and mariners (see pp.10–11) through

themed galleries and artefacts from

the lands the great sailor explored.

To the east of Stewart Park lies

Ormesby Hall, a Georgian mansion

that was owned by the Pennyman

family for nearly 400 years. Colonel

Jim Pennyman and his arts-loving wife

lived here, as did “Wicked” Sir James

Pennyman, who earned his nickname

by gambling with the family fortune

in the eighteenth century. The hall is

known for its exquisite plasterwork,

paintings and furnishings, its

magnificent Georgian stable block and

fabulous model-railway exhibition.

41MIDDLESBROUGH

Infinity Bridge, Stockton

There are some splendid attractions to

the west of Middlesbrough, from the

market towns of Stockton-on-Tees and

Yarm to the glorious Georgian house and grounds at Preston Park.

Stockton was a flourishing centre of

heavy industry during the Industrial

Revolution. In 1822, an event took

place here that changed the world

forever – engineer George Stephenson

built the world’s first public railway,

which ran from St John’s Crossing on

Stockton-on-Tees, Preston Park and Yarm

Bridge Road to Darlington, and onward

to the collieries at Shildon in County

Durham. Before the birth of

the railways, coal was pulled by horse

and cart over the hills to the sea.

The fast movement of coal by train

soon became a lucrative business,

and the line was extended to

Middlesbrough in 1833.

Almost a century earlier, the famous

mariner Captain Cook was redrawing

the map of the world (see pp.10–11).

42 MINI ROUGH GUIDE TO TEESSIDE

Stockton’s Castlegate Quay is home

to a full-size replica of his ship, HM Bark Endeavour. Book a guided tour

to learn more about life at sea in the

eighteenth century or join one of the

fantastic on-board lunches.

Five minutes’ walk away from the

quay is the High Street – reputed to be

the widest in the UK – which features

a 1735 town hall and a Georgian-style

market hall. A huge, historic outdoor market is held here every Wednesday,

Friday and Saturday. Speciality markets

offering vintage crafts and antiques

are also held here on most weekends

during the summer.

Tucked away just off the High Street

is the charming Green Dragon Yard

– an enclave of restored warehouses.

Here you’ll find the Green Dragon pub and Green Dragon Studios

– a music facility that was opened in

2007 by Feargal Sharkey, the former

lead singer of the New Wave band

The Undertones. Also of note here

is the 1766 Georgian Theatre (see

p.55), one of Britain’s oldest surviving

Georgian theatres.

Further to the east, around the bend

in the river, is the bowstring Infinity Bridge, which links the north bank

of the Tees with Durham University’s

Queen’s Campus. The bridge, which

measures 240m, was opened in

2009 for pedestrians and cyclists

as part of Stockton’s North Shore

Redevelopment Project.

The lovely Preston Hall (see p.23) is

a few miles upriver from Stockton. This

Georgian estate, which has recently

undergone restoration work, features a

Victorian Street, nature reserve, a walled

kitchen garden and the wonderful

Butterfly World. A museum contains

more than 90,000 items focusing

on the River Tees and the former

inhabitants of Preston Hall.

Further along the Tees is the small

and scenic town of Yarm, with

its olde-worlde charm, upmarket

shops and contemporary bars and

restaurants. A plaque outside the

George & Dragon hotel recalls the

1820 meeting during which plans for

the Stockton and Darlington Railway

were discussed.

Victorian street, Preston Park Museum

43AROUND TEESSIDE

The market town of Darlington is

famous for having been the terminus

of the world’s first passenger railway.

This part of its history is celebrated at

the Head of Steam railway museum,

where visitors can walk around

George Stephenson’s legendary

Locomotion No. 1. This engine hauled

the first train along the Stockton and

Darlington Railway (see p.42). Exhibits

in the museum include station signs,

old uniforms and vintage posters.

Darlington’s contribution to the

railways is commemorated by David

Mach’s striking 1997 Train sculpture,

which is perched alongside the A66.

This life-size sculpture of a steam

locomotive emerging from a tunnel

was modelled on the 1938 engine

Mallard, which set a railway speed

Darlingtonrecord of 126 mph. The piece was

made from 185,000 bricks, cost

£760,000 and took a team of 34

bricklayers, labourers and apprentices

five months to build.

Darlington’s town centre offers

visitors a two-hour heritage trail. Beginning at the town hall, follow the

coin-markers and you’ll come across

Pease House, once home to Edward

Pease, who was a railway pioneer like

his father, Joseph (see p.8); Michael

Pinksy’s award-winning Market Cascade water feature; and High Row, the town’s best-known street,

which formed part of the Great North

Road from London to Edinburgh

until 1965. Look out for the Clock Tower, set amid attractive Quaker

Darlington’s train station

David Mach’s Train sculpture

44 MINI ROUGH GUIDE TO TEESSIDE

architecture, and stop for a drink at

the Edwardian Hole in the Wall pub

in Horsemarket, which is thought

to take its name from the town’s

medieval boundary wall.

Darlington is a thriving town

where modern enterprise keeps on

developing. There’s an award-winning

business park at Lingfield Point and an urban regeneration project

in Central Park, where Teesside

University opened its £13-million

landmark building in 2011.

There are also some peaceful spots,

such as the Grade-II-listed South Park – it opened in 1853 and was

the first Victorian park in England’s

northeast. Here, you can step into the

sensory rock and rose garden, sit

on a south-facing seat and watch the

wildlife on the lake.

A panel from the Joseph Pease statue

High Row, with its statue of Joseph Pease

45AROUND TEESSIDE

February 2016. This high-ropes course is

the tallest of its kind in the UK, reaching

heights of 18m.

The barrage itself is fascinating to

walk around, and landscaped gardens

and pathways give you a good view of

the floodgates and the watersports in

action. A “fish pass”, which visitors can

observe from a viewing area, allows

fish to navigate the barrage. There is

currently no access to the barrage itself.

A mere kilometre from the barrage

is the nature reserve of Maze Park.

This oasis of calm, slap-bang in the

middle of an urban landscape, includes

woodland, open grassland and a

varied selection of wildlife, including

The meandering River Tees has long

been the lifeblood of the region. With

its industrial heritage, wealth of wildlife

and huge outdoorsy appeal, the river

is – both literally and metaphorically –

at the very heart of Teesside.

Midway between Stockton and

Middlesbrough lies the mighty Tees Barrage. This feat of engineering was

designed to prevent flooding in the Tees

Valley; it took four years to build and

used 650 tonnes of steel. The structure

opened in 1995 at a cost of £4.6 million,

at the same time as the Tees Barrage International White Water Centre

– an artificial white-water course.

Here, you can also try water-skiing,

kayaking, rowing, dragon-boat racing

and powerboating. The Air Trail Tees Barrage opened on the same site in

The Riverside Stadium, beside the Tees

The River Tees

A lesser redpoll at Saltholme

46 MINI ROUGH GUIDE TO TEESSIDE

This industrial hub handles more than

5000 vessels and 40 million tonnes

of cargo a year. Steel, petrochemical

and engineering companies, as well as

high-street shops and supermarkets, all

use the port. You can watch cargo ships

and tankers coming in and out of the

port at Coatham Sands beach, to the

northwest of Redcar. While you’re here,

take a walk to the 1884 lighthouse

on the South Gare peninsula for a

spectacular view of the estuary.

On the other side of the river lies

Teesmouth National Nature Reserve

(see also p.20). This 3.5-square-kilometre

reserve, another natural gem in an

otherwise industrial setting, is home to

abundant flora and fauna. North Gare is

an area of dunes populated by flocks of

curlews, short-eared owls and skylarks,

and at Seal Sands (see also p.20), you’ll

see waders pecking in the mud and

seals basking beside the tidal channels.

Colourful fishing boats at South Gare

twelve species of butterflies and a small

colony of sand martins. The riverbanks

are the perfect vantage point from

which to observe the seals that prey on

salmon as they negotiate the fish pass.

A riverside track runs through

Middlesbrough to Saltholme wildlife

reserve (see p.21), where the air is filled

with birdsong. This haven is home to

foxes, hares and one of the largest

colonies of common terns in the UK.

Lapwings, peregrines, water rails and

yellow wagtails also thrive here. There’s

a seal-viewing platform at nearby Greatham Creek.

Teesport – the UK’s third-largest port

– sits at the mouth of the River Tees.

47AROUND TEESSIDE

By the sea

The historic seaside town of Redcar,

to the southeast of Teesmouth, boasts

a splendid sandy beach stretching for

16km from the South Gare peninsula

in the north to Saltburn-by-the-Sea in

the south. Another must-see sight in

town is the purple-and-yellow Redcar Beacon, known locally as the “vertical

pier”. Head to this seafront viewing

tower to take in the 27-turbine offshore

wind farm, cargo ships waiting to sail

into Teesport and tourists searching

for crabs on the Redcar Rocks. Redcar’s

Zetland Lifeboat Museum, which

contains the world’s oldest-surviving

lifeboat, is well worth a visit, as is the

nearby Kirkleatham Museum, with its

inspiring local-history displays.

Teesside’s industrial coastline harbours

some surprising gems, from bustling

towns and charming fishing villages

to windswept promenades and sandy,

fossil-strewn beaches.

Historic Hartlepool, to the north

of Teesmouth, is home to the superb

1817 HMS Trincomalee (see also p.23),

the oldest British warship still afloat

today. Visitors can board the ship to get

a flavour of life on a naval frigate two

centuries ago. Hartlepool’s Maritime Experience recaptures the atmosphere

of an eighteenth-century seaport, while

sleek, modern boats jostle for space in

the nearby marina. A promenade leads

from here to Seaton Carew, where

there’s a fine, sandy beach.

A coastal view of historic Hartlepool

48 MINI ROUGH GUIDE TO TEESSIDE

At Saltburn-by-the-Sea, a Victorian

spa town and surfing hotspot (see

p.29), the 1869 pier has been retained

and the 1884 cliff lift still transports

holiday-makers to the beach below.

In the eighteenth century, the town

was a centre for smuggling – goods

were passed from caves through secret

tunnels to inns that had hidden rooms

and false floors.

Head southeast to the dramatic,

54km-long North Yorkshire and Cleveland Heritage Coast, between

Saltburn and Scalby Mills, which forms

part of the North York Moors National Park. Boulby is known for its huge cliff,

which, at 203m, is one of the highest

in the country. Fossil-hunters will love

the shores around the villages of Robin Hood’s Bay and Ravenscar, where

you don’t need to poke around in the

sand for long before finding dozens of

the relics. Smuggling was rife along

the Yorkshire coast, and in both Robin

Hood’s Bay and Staithes, further up the

coast, tightly packed cottages, alleyways

and stepped lanes helped smugglers go

about their stealthy business.

Tourists flock to the seaside town of

Whitby in summer, whether it’s to visit

the ruins of Whitby Abbey or to soak

up its literary heritage – part of Bram

Stoker’s novel Dracula is set here. If you

don’t like crowds, head to Runswick Bay, where you’re guaranteed a quiet

day on a sheltered, sandy beach.

The summer resort of Whitby

The former smuggling centre of Staithes

The pier at Saltburn

49AROUND TEESSIDE

Picturesque Great Ayton

Teesside is the perfect base from

which to explore the superb attractions

of the wider northeast area. The cities

of Durham, Newcastle, Sunderland

and York are on its doorstep, while

the Yorkshire Dales and Lake District national parks are also accessible. There

are also lesser-known sights, within

much easier reach of Teesside, which

make for wonderful days out.

The pretty village of Great Ayton,

which lies 11km to the southeast of

Middlesbrough, was the boyhood

Beyond Teesside

home of Captain James Cook (see

pp.10–11). The Captain Cook Schoolroom Museum tells the story

of Cook’s early life, education and

adventures at sea.

The Cook family home on Bridge Street was built by James’s father in

1755. In 1933, in a patriotic attempt to

prevent the house from being taken to

the United States, the owner made it a

condition of sale that the building must

remain in England. However, she was

persuaded to change “England” to “the

50 MINI ROUGH GUIDE TO TEESSIDE

The ruins of Gisborough Priory

Cleveland Way signpost

Empire”, and accepted an Australian bid

of £800. So each stone was numbered

and transported to Melbourne, where

it was painstakingly reconstructed in

1934 as an exact replica of the original.

A granite obelisk now marks the spot

where the cottage stood.

To the southwest of Great Ayton is

Stokesley, an elegant market town

where the seventeenth-century Pack

Horse Bridge crosses the Riven Leven.

The town’s historic high street is lined

with fine Georgian architecture and

independent shops and restaurants.

Another market town, Guisborough,

lies to the northeast of Great Ayton.

Here, the ruined Gisborough Priory

dates from the twelfth century and the

distinctive Gisborough Hall, an 1856

reconstruction of the Jacobean original,

is now a hotel (see also p.59). While

you’re here, don’t miss the chance to

stretch your legs on the 177km-long

Cleveland Way national trail, which

passes close to Guisborough on its

route to Saltburn. Alternatively, follow

the historical De Brus Trail, taking

in the towns of Hartlepool, Yarm,

Guisborough, Skelton, Danby and

Staithes, which all have a connection

with the De Brus dynasty. Their most

famous clan member was Robert the

Bruce, the Scottish King who secured

independence from England.

Finally, the Cleveland Ironstone Mining Museum at Skinningrove is

a must for history and engineering

buffs. Ironstone mining led to the

development of Teesside and shaped

its industrial landscape, and at this

captivating museum, you have the

chance to venture into an old mine.

51BEYOND TEESSIDE

Stockton is also home to a wide range

of independent shops, including luxury

bakers, jewellers and clothes shops.

Middlesbrough’s town centre is your

best bet for high-street chains. There’s

the Cleveland Centre (clevelandcentre.

co.uk), the Hillstreet Shopping Centre (hillstreetshopping.co.uk) – which has

both Debenhams and House of Fraser

– the Captain Cook Square Shopping Centre (captaincookshopping.com)

and the Dundas Shopping Centre (dundasshoppingcentre.co.uk). To the

southwest of town lies the vast Teesside Shopping Park (teessideshoppingpark.

co.uk). Nearby, you’ll also find Lazy Joe’s The stylish department store Psyche

ShoppingNewcomers are likely to be pleasantly

surprised at the great shopping on offer

in Middlesbrough, which boasts huge

shopping malls, national chain stores

and quirky independent boutiques.

Posters in a shop on Baker Street; Middlesbrough Theatre; the shop at mima

52 THINGS TO DO

THINGS TO DO

independent shops, vintage boutiques,

hair salons, cafés and pubs, and hosts the

wonderful Orange Pip Market once a

month (see p.60).

Middlesbrough also has some popular

specialist shops. Forbidden Planet

(forbiddenplanet.co.uk) on Dundas

Street is a big hit with comic-book

and sci-fi fans. Arty types should visit

the shop at mima (see pp.39–40)

and Gallery TS1 (facebook.com/

GalleryTS1) on Corporation Road, which

sells high-quality works by emerging

and established artists. If it’s a dose

of nostalgia you’re after, visit Sound It Out (sounditoutrecords.co.uk) on

Yarm Street in Stockton, where you can

buy vinyl, cassettes and CDs. By far the

most curious shop in Middlesbrough,

though, is Shelly’s Reborn Dolls

(shellysreborndolls.com) on Wilson

Street, which sells lifelike human dolls –

and monkeys, too!

(lazyjoesclothing.bigcartel.com), an

American vintage clothing store on

Newport Road, and the academic-

book emporium Fahrenheit Books

(facebook.com/FahrenheitBooks) on

Wilson Street.

For something a bit different, walk

south down Linthorpe Road, where

you’ll find delightful independent shops.

Begin at the award-winning designer

department store Psyche (psyche.co.uk),

then take your pick from the rest: fashion

store Triads I (triads.co.uk); Steven James Guitars (northeastguitar.co.uk),

established by the former bassist of the

rock band Dogs D’Amour; Kate Fearnley Boutique for women’s party and

wedding dresses (katefearnleyboutique.

co.uk); and European and Chinese

supermarkets.

Baker Street, one of the town’s

most fashionable streets, is just north

of the university. It’s lined with quirky

Independent outlets on Bedford Street

Whether you’re after live music or DJs,

you’ll find it in Teesside. The region

offers a vast and varied selection of

concerts and club nights covering a

spectrum of musical genres.

Middlesbrough Town Hall (middlesbroughtownhallonline.co.uk)

on Albert Road is one of Teesside’s best

entertainment venues. This beautiful,

Grade-II-listed, Victorian concert hall

has hosted classical concerts, as well as

pop, rock and comedy acts. Big names

that have performed here include rock

bands Oasis, The Clash and Radiohead,

and the comedian Jimmy Carr. In

January 2016, the hall began a major,

Music and entertainmenttwo-year refurbishment to return the

building to its former glory.

Teesside University Students’ Union

(tees-su.org.uk) has had a £1-million

makeover, with improved facilities

alongside its two award-winning

venues: The Terrace Bar and The Hub (see

also p.62). Professor Green, Calvin Harris

and Example have all performed here.

Entrance restrictions apply; check the

website for details. At the Medicine Bar

(facebook.com/medicine.bar) nightclub

and cocktail bar on Corporation Road,

you can dance to indie, alternative and

trash music on Thursdays and vintage

indie and pop punk on Saturdays (see

also p.63). On the same street, Mink Bar is a gorgeous music venue built

from salvaged bricks, driftwood and

local scrap. The Westgarth Social Club (westgarthsocial.com) on Southfield

Road has gigs by up-and-coming bands.

Back on Corporation Road

there’s another historic hotspot:

The Middlesbrough Empire

(themiddlesbroughempire.co.uk). Since

opening in 1897, this Grade-II-listed

club and music venue has hosted

comedian Charlie Chaplin, escape

artist Harry Houdini and the American

pop-rock band the Scissor Sisters. The low-lit Mink Bar

54 THINGS TO DO

The Empire features in local author

Richard Milward’s acclaimed debut

novel, Apples (2007).

You can see live bands on Linthorpe

Road at TS One (facebook.com/

ts1.middlesbroughltd) and Sticky Fingers Café and Rock Bar next to

Steven James Guitars. Alternatively,

head to Doctor Browns (facebook.

com/docbrownsmiddlesbrough) on

Corporation Road or The Longlands Club (longlandsclub.co.uk) on Marton

Road, which features tribute acts and

touring musicians. TeesValley Arena

(teesvalleyarena.co.uk), a venue for

more than 3000 people, has played

host to rapper Tinie Tempah.

Centre Square hosts outdoor events

throughout the year, including films on

the Big Screen, pop concerts with big

names such as Snoop Dogg and the

Middlesbrough Mela (see p.17).

Tucked away in a courtyard just off

Stockton’s riverside is The Georgian Theatre (teesmusicalliance.org.uk).

Built in 1766, this is one of the oldest

Georgian theatres in the country.

The Empire, in all its dazzling glory

The exterior of The Empire

Teesside isn’t short of colourful cultural venues to keep you entertained in the

evenings. Whether you love the stage

or the silver screen, this vibrant region

really does have it all.

The superb Middlesbrough Theatre (www.middlesbroughtheatre.co.uk),

Theatre, cinema and comedy

located on The Avenue in the south

of town, opened in 1957 after a thirty-

year campaign to build a theatre on

site of an old opera house. Designed

by London architects Elder and De

Pierro, the 486-seat venue is now

a thriving theatre, boasting a busy

Cineworld in Middlesbrough

56 MINI ROUGH GUIDE TO TEESSIDE

For the latest films, go to the

14-screen Showcase Cinema

(showcasecinemas.co.uk) at Teesside

Shopping Park or Middlesbrough’s

11-screen Cineworld Cinema

(cineworld.co.uk). Arc in Stockton also

has a cinema, which regularly screens

theatrical performances as well as

feature films. Finally, if you are – or

have ever been – a student of Teesside

University, you can join the Cinema Society at Teesside University, which

specializes in world, classic, cult and

independent cinema.

performance programme featuring

everything from tribute bands to

drama and dance.

You’re invited to an evening of rib-

tickling fun at the Big Mouth Comedy Club (bigmouthcomedy.co.uk), the

biggest comedy club in the northeast.

Shows will be held at the town’s Jurys

Inn hotel (see p.58) while its regular

home, Middlesbrough Town Hall (see

p.54), undergoes refurbishment. For

more laughs, as well as music, dance,

drama and screened National Theatre

live performances, head to Stockton’s

arts centre, Arc (arconline.co.uk),

on Dovecot Street.

At the excellent Forum Theatre

(forumtheatrebillingham.co.uk) on

Queensway in Billingham, a busy

programme of events includes

song, circus, comedy and tribute

bands. Further afield is the beautiful

Edwardian Darlington Civic Theatre

(darlingtoncivic.co.uk). The theatre is

undergoing refurbishment from May

2016 until the autumn 2017, when it

reopens as the Darlington Hippodrome.

Middlesbrough’s innovative myplace (see also p.33) is a youth activity centre

and venue that boasts a theatre, TV

studio and two theatre schools, where

classes include drama workshops,

street dance and musical theatre.

Poster for the Big Mouth Comedy Club

57THINGS TO DO

You’ll be spoilt for choice when it comes

to accommodation in Teesside, with

its range of excellent hotels, historic

country houses and chic, modern

apartments to suit all budgets.

As part of a major regeneration project

in Middlesbrough, a former office block

has been transformed into the 138-room

Holiday Inn Express Middlesbrough – Centre Square (hiexpress.com). You can’t

beat this hotel for convenience, as it’s

right in the town centre close to Teesside

University. Nearby, the four-star Jurys Inn (jurysinns.com) is an excellent choice

for both business and pleasure, with

132 rooms, function rooms, a pool, gym,

jacuzzi, sunbed, sauna and steam room.

Another high-end option is the

lovely Wynyard Hall Country House Hotel (wynyardhall.co.uk), set in

sprawling parkland to the north of

Middlesbrough. The elaborate interiors

of this 1846 manor house reflect the

ostentatious style of French King Louis

XIV. An equally idyllic weekend could

be spent at the Rockliffe Hall Hotel (rockliffehall.com) golf and spa resort,

set in an eighteenth-century estate in

The stunning Wynyard Hall Country House Hotel

Beautiful Blackthorn Gate

Where to stay

Hurworth-on-Tees, near Darlington. Its

restaurant, The Orangery, holds three

AA rosettes and is regarded as one of the

finest dining experiences in the region.

Other grand hotels in the area include

the Jacobean-style Gisborough Hall (macdonaldhotels.co.uk) and Yarm’s

outstanding offerings: the handsome

Crathorne Hall (handpickedhotels.co.uk)

and the Judges Country House Hotel at

Kirklevington Hall (judgeshotel.co.uk).

If you’re on a tighter budget, try The Old Mill (bedandbreakfastyarm.com)

in Yarm, which dates from 1750 and

was converted into a house in 1968.

Nearby, you’ll find the Stables at the Vale (thestablesatthevale.co.uk), a bed

and breakfast in a converted barn at

High Leven, Yarm. Other affordable

options include the Best Western Parkmore Hotel and Leisure Club

(bestwestern.co.uk) in Stockton and

the Travelodges (travelodge.co.uk) in

Middlesbrough and Hartlepool.

There are self-catering lodges at

award-winning Blackthorn Gate

(blackthorngate.co.uk) on Eastfields

Farm at the foot of Roseberry Topping

(see p.31) – Teessiders’ much-loved “mini

mountain” in the North York Moors

National Park. Tees Valley Apartments (teesvalleyapartments.co.uk) provide

centrally located, serviced rooms in

Middlesbrough.

Teesside has some fantastic camping

and caravan sites too. The White Water Park Caravan Club Site (caravanclub.

co.uk) is close to the Tees Barrage, and

Lordstones (lordstones.com), on the

North York Moors at Carlton Bank, offers

camping and luxury camping pods.

Hydrotherapy pool at Rockliffe Hall

A luxury camping pod at Lordstones

59THINGS TO DO

When eating out in Teesside, you must

leave your calorie concerns at home

and try the local delicacy, “parmo”.

The tasty dish is made of flattened,

breadcrumbed chicken topped with

bechamel sauce and melted cheese.

If this indulgent feast doesn’t appeal,

there are plenty of other options, from

Mediterranean, North African and

Indian fare to nouvelle cuisine and

traditional English grub.

Middlesbrough has an exciting, new

foodie hub. The former workers’ houses

on Bedford Street are now home to

independent cafés and restaurants,

including The Curing House (thecuring.

house), an excellent charcuterie

bar-restaurant; Mohujo’s Burrito Bar (mohujos.co.uk), with its Mexican

Where to eatfavourites; and Rounton Coffee’s Bedford Street Coffee house (rountoncoffee.

co.uk). On the last Saturday of every

month, nearby Baker Street hosts the

Orange Pip Market (facebook.com/

OrangePipMarket) – Middlesbrough’s

first artisan street-food market, where

you can sample regional food and enjoy

live music, arts and performances.

For chic dining, try Brasserie Hudson Quay (brasseriehudsonquay.com),

which overlooks the old Middlesbrough

Dock (see p.35). The contemporary

restaurant serves classic dishes, such

as sixteen-hour braised beef-cheek

bourguignon and poached local pork

fillet with North Sea shellfish.

Stunning Acklam Hall has had a

makeover. Middlesbrough’s only

Grade-I-listed building now features

The Brierley (thebrierley.co.uk), where

you can enjoy à la carte menus in its

formal Dining Room or afternoon tea in

The Salon, a cosy hideaway.

On Linthorpe Road, don’t miss the

award-winning Akbars (akbars.co.uk),

a superb Indian restaurant where

there’s a picture of former Top Gear

presenter Jeremy Clarkson (see p.13) in

the window with the quote: “One of the

best curries in my life”. The Dosa Houze Brasserie Hudson Quay

60 MINI ROUGH GUIDE TO TEESSIDE

(dosahouze.co.uk) serves southern

Indian curries and pancake-like dosas.

Oven Restaurant, which serves

affordable gourmet cuisine, is a new

arrival on Linthorpe Road.

Middlesbrough Football Club’s

Riverside Restaurant (mfc.co.uk) is an

unexpected foodie hotspot. TV cook

and Norwich City supporter Delia Smith

put this place on the map when she

pronounced the food “the best in a

football club ever!” At La Pharmacie

(lapharmacie.co.uk) on Corporation

Road, you can choose from an express

lunch menu or take your time browsing

the bistro board (see also p.63), while the

classic Italian and creative international

dishes at Al Forno (al-forno.co.uk) on

Southfield Road are mouthwatering.

Further afield, the award-winning

vegetarian restaurant The Waiting Room (the-waiting-room.co.uk) at

Eaglescliffe offers inspiring European

and Middle Eastern dishes. At

Hartlepool marina, you can sample

North African and Mediterranean food

at Portofinos (portofino.co.uk). Oven Restaurant

Go on a café crawl and taste the best

cakes in Middlesbrough – but don’t

try them all at once. Start on Grange

Road, where you can sit beneath

tasselled lamps in the homely The Olde Young Tea House (facebook.

com/oldeyoungteahouse). Stroll to

Bedford Street for creative cupcakes at

the Songbird Bakery (songbirdbakery.

com). On the corner of Baker Street,

rest your legs in one of the comfortable

leather armchairs of the Baker Street Kitchen (thebakerstreetkitchen.co.uk).

A Middlesbrough Cake TrailFurther along the street, try freshly

baked flapjacks at the hip, wood-walled

Chilli Cake Deli (chillicakedeli.com). At

Sugar Craft (sugarcraftmiddlesbrough.

co.uk), on Borough Road, the white

walls and tables mimic the icing on the

wedding cakes at the entrance.

Head along Linthorpe Road to tuck

into waffles and pastries at De Melo

(demelo.co.uk). Dresser’s Tea Room,

on the ground floor of the Dorman

Museum, is a quaint spot with lace

tablecloths and parquet flooring.

61THINGS TO DO

Lose yourself among hundreds of

people in one of Middlesbrough’s

large clubs, sip cocktails in a swanky

bar or enjoy a pint in the quiet comfort

of a tiny micropub (see box opposite).

Teesside has exciting nightlife options

both for serious party-goers and more

retiring types.

The town offers many historic pubs

to choose from. Try the former county

court on Wilson Street, now the

Isaac Wilson (jdwetherspoon.co.uk)

Wetherspoon pub, which is named

after a Middlesbrough industrialist.

Drinking and nightlifeDoctor Browns (01642 803648), on

Corporation Road, was originally three

terraced houses and was licensed as a

pub in 1866. TS One (facebook.com/

ts1.middlesbroughltd) on Linthorpe

Road is a former bank with a beautiful

balustrade roof.

There are a huge number of watering

holes on and around Linthorpe Road.

Head there, or explore the upmarket

streets of the old port of Yarm, which

is awash with chic bars and a few

contemporary restaurants.

Entertainment at the multi-award-

winning Hub, a 1000-capacity Teesside University Students’ Union (see also

p.54) venue, includes themed nights,

comedy acts and live music. Southfield

Road runs through the university

campus and is popular with night-time

revellers: try the Dicken’s Inn and

Dickens 2 (thedickensinn.co.uk), The Star (thestar-middlesbrough.co.uk) or

TS One

The Hub, Teesside University Student’s Union

62 MINI ROUGH GUIDE TO TEESSIDE

Corporation Road. This Middlesbrough

institution, which opened in 1897, boasts

three floors devoted to a range of genres,

including dubstep and heavy-metal.

Don’t miss the Medicine Bar (see p.54)

– a cellar club and cocktail bar beneath

La Pharmacie restaurant (see p.61) that

hosts indie, alternative and trash nights.

Tiny (facebook.com/clubtiny) on

Albert Road, Middlesbrough, is the only

bespoke LGBT venue in Teesside. Some

venues host club nights: try Avalon (facebook.com/AvalonDarlington) or

Harvey’s Late Bar (facebook.com/

harveysdarlo) in Darlington or Club Ice (clubice-stockton.co.uk) in Stockton.

The Southfield (thesouthfield.co.uk).

Bedford Street also has some great new

cocktail bars, including The Nuthatch

(the-nuthatch.co.uk).

For a taste of true “Boro” fervour, visit

the landmark Navigation Inn (01642

226857) on Marsh Road. The regular

haunt of Middlesbrough Football Club

fans now stands alone in what was once

a bustling dockside area.

Clubbers should make for Spensley’s Emporium and Atik (01642 218484),

which is housed in a Gothic building

on Albert Road and embraces all kinds

of music, from indie folk to dance.

Then there’s the Empire (see p.54) on

Britain’s pub scene may be in decline,

but Middlesbrough’s micropubs are

booming. Most are independent,

compact pubs of just one room serving

locally brewed real ales.

The Infant Hercules, on Grange

Road, takes its name from a description

of Middlesbrough by former Prime

Minister William Ewart Gladstone. His

words are emblazoned on a wall, along

with framed prints of the town.

On Bedford Street, you’ll find The Chairman, a hip bar with brick walls

and an open kitchen. The Twisted Lip (thetwistedlip.co.uk) on Baker Street

A Craft-Beer Trailis decorated with antique-style bric-a-

brac and hosts live music on Fridays.

Sherlocks, a couple of doors along, has

a stove heater and its window bears the

distinctive profile of Sherlock Holmes.

On Borough Road, you’ll come to The Devil’s Advocate, whose wood seats are

strewn with cushions. Round the corner,

on Linthorpe Road, Sticky Fingers Café

and Rock Bar (stickyfingersrockbar.

co.uk) shares premises with a guitar store

and features live music (Fri and Sat).

A 15-minute walk to Roman Road is

worth it for the beer at Dr Phil’s Real Ale House (drphilsrealalehouse.co.uk).

63THINGS TO DO

Picture credits

Resources

All images are courtesy of Teesside University, Middlesbrough Council and Stockton Council except:

(Key: b-bottom; c-centre; l-left; r-right; t-top)

Alamy: John Warburton-Lee Photography 12bl, Edward Westmacott

14, Zak Hussein / WENN.com 15tr; Andrew Jones: 54bl; Harry Murphy: 46br.

Jacket images All cover images are the copyright of Teesside University except: back (cr) © Eve Photography.

Download a digital version of this guide at tees.ac.uk/roughguides

Darlington ✪ For tourist information, visit: thisisdarlington.com/visit or

www.darlington.gov.uk/leisure-and-

culture/visitor-information/

Hartlepool ✪ Tourist Information Centre: Tel: 01429 869706 destinationhartlepool.com

Middlesbrough

✪ For a guide to Middlesbrough, visit: lovemiddlesbrough.com facebook.com/lovemiddlesbrough twitter.com/lovembro

✪ For more information about Teesside University, visit: tees.ac.uk youtube.com/user/UniversityofTeesside

✪ For all events held at mima, visit: visitmima.com/whats-on

✪ For information about sports facilities

in Middlesbrough, visit:

everyoneactive.com

Redcar ✪ Tourist Information Centre: Tel: 01642 471921 redcar-cleveland.gov.uk/visit

Stockton ✪ For an events guide, visit: events.stockton.gov.uk

Walking and cycling ✪ For information about trails, visit: www.lovemiddlesbrough.com/downloads www.stockton.gov.uk/arts-culture-and-leisure/cycling-and-walking