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Be eat t e sk l g t-dotted dome a s xtee t -ce tubat ouse, m Tu k s atte da t, hus a, v go ousl sc ubbedme f om eck to toe as i la o t e commu al gbek tasi ( eated ma ble platfo m), just a few feet f om w e e mf e d, Jea e, was be g doused w t wate f om a la ge,somew at co g uous plast c bucket.

T s was def tel ot ou t p cal s o e excu s o . W cwas exactl w at t e two of us wa ted.

W e id f st floated t e dea of a c u se as a eff c e twa to v s t t e Easte Med te a ea , Jea e a l felo g

depe de t t avele was skept cal, fea g excu s o sw t boss flag-wav g gu des, f xed sc edules, a d l ttleflex b l t . But we we e d g to v s t ista bul a d Ve ce, a dholla d Ame ca L es 12-da Med te a ea Emp es vo agep om sed bot c t es, plus v s ts to t e seduct ve G eek sles.T e cl c e : T e sa l g was aboa d t e swa k Nieuw Amsterdam , a ew s p mak g waves fo ts sleek new yo kC t st le te o s a d $3 m ll o a t collect o .

A c u se made pe fect se se, we ult matel ag eed, espec allw e do e ou wa . read: depe de t explo at o , ple t off ee t me to c ll, a d adve tu es off t e t p cal tou st ada .

hav g bee t e e, do e t at, e e a e ou suggest o s oow to ditc t c d , id t clic , nd xp i nc

t M d ( nd t ld in g n l) m lik l c l.

1efe depe de t t avel but love t e pe ks a d u pack-o l -o ce co ve e ce of a c u se? anit C min s a es 12 ways To have IT boTh ways o ou ext vo age.

Choose cruises with overnight calls and late departures , which allow

time to absorb the local culture (as well as key sights) and take in the vibrantnightlife. Youll have an entirely different impression of Venices Piazza SanMarco come nightfall when strains of string quartets fill the air, lovers strollthe square, and the moon hits your eye like a big pizza pie. In Istanbul, fallinto step with the hip after-work crowd for a stroll down trendy IstikllCaddesi (Independence Avenue), the mile-long pedestrian boulevard lined withboutiques, art galleries, cafs, and nightclubs. Join the backgammon-playing andnargileh (water pipe)-smoking Istanbulites for a cup of Turkish tea at one of theside-street outdoor teahouses.

In addition to overnights in Venice and Istanbul, our cruise offered an 11:00p.m. departure from Greek party-town Mykonos and a full 12-hour call atKusadasi, permitting time to visit ancient Ephesus, shop for Turkish carpets inthe Grand Bazaar, and people-watch over Mythos beers in a pier-side caf.

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The Med your way

f m t p l ft: Istanbuls Blue Mosque;(first bud of an artichoke) harvested

ce; Turkish tea; an Istanbulite baker; andace on Santorini.

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In port, get up early and explore the city on foot beforethe throngs of tourists arrive. In Venice, youll have PiazzaSan Marco, and the labyrinth of streets leading from it, all toyourself. Stop for a breakfast cappuccino and brioche in one of the tiny cafs where you can chat with the Venetians. Foodies

will want to hit the Pescheria (fish market) located by the RialtoBridge early (it opens at 5:00 a.m. on weekdays) for a look at thefresh sardines, octopus, and enormous whole swordfish beforethe market fills with amateur shutterbugs.

Escape the crowds of the main piazzas and squares. Itgoes without saying that the most popular piazzas and townsquares are also the most crowded and expensive. On a sunny Saturday in Venice, Jeanne and I stumbled across a nearly deserted, unnamed, not-in-any-guidebook square within blocksof Piazza San Marco. Thats where we lunched on grande slices of traditional margherita pizza and ice-cold Italian beer purchased

from a nearby pizzeria.

Venture out of the port towns. On the Greek isle of Santorini,while nearly everyone else on the ship was visiting Fira Town, weheaded to Oia (pronounced eee-ya), a straight-out-of-the-moviesvillage of blue-domed churches, whitewashed buildings, anddrop-dead-gorgeous views, perched on the northwesternmosttip of the island. To get there, we opted for a self-guided HollandAmerica shore excursion. Tip: Book any tour to Oia as soon asyou can.

Take the train and other public transportation ; youllnot only feel like a local, youll meet the locals. In some cases(Ku sadasi to Ephesus, for instance), it makes sense to opt for ashore-excursion bus. But in Greeces seaside town of Katakolon,its just as easy, considerably less expensive, and fun to take thetrain to ancient Olympia. In the morning, Jeanne and I enjoyedwatching the townspeople setting off on their errands; in theafternoon, we got a kick out of the exuberant teenagers (theyrethe same the world over) heading home after school.

Get the inside scoop from the folks who live there. Without exception, I find shopkeepers, restaurant patrons, andfellow bus riders more than happy to offer suggestions on theirfavorite places to eat and shop. A proprietor at Istanbuls SpiceBazaar directed us to Pandeli Restaurant (a fixture since 1901)for authentic Turkish coffee and badem kurabiyesi (almondcookies). A shopkeeper in Mykonos insisted we try Opa Tavernafor its fresh calamari. She even left her shop unattended, leadingus through the maze of narrow lanes, to introduce us to Sava,the tavernas amusing and chatty owner.

A Greek Orthodox church in Oia and (above)caf culture in Venices Piazza San Marco.

The spice of life in Istanbul and (below)traditional Turkish coffee.

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7Consult your ships savvy staff. Theyll point you to the non-touristy spots theyve discovered whiletraveling the globe. The best placeto get an authentic Turkish bath inIstanbul? We asked the spa girls inHolland Americas Greenhouse Spa.(Investigating the top spa spots is oneof their favorite activities in port.)They directed us to the 427-year-oldemberlita s Hamami, told us whereto catch the bus to get there, andwhich stop to get off. Also helpful:the ships travel guide. The Nieuw Amsterdams Tom Vercillo was a wealth

of information on where to go, what tosee, and what to avoid. In addition tohis lectures, Tom stationed himself inthe Atrium for plan your day ashoreadvice sessions throughout the cruise.

Opt for small specialty restaurantson your ship and youll enjoy anexperience akin to dining in a favoritevenue at home. Aboard the Nieuw Amsterdam , we ate in the hip PanAsian restaurant, Tamarind, and inthe intimate Pinnacle Grill where, onenight, we splurged on a Master Chef dinner of seven courses, each pairedwith wine.

Book a verandah stateroom or suite. That way, you can lounge outdoorsin your pajamas in the morning, andunwind in glorious peace and quiet after

a long day ashore. Everyone will tell you:A verandah is well worth the money.

While On BOard. . .

Next to godliness: Istanbuls 4 27-year-oldember litas Hamami (bathhouse) .

Ship shape: a Deluxe Verandahaboard the Nieuw Amsterdam . More Med Your Way on page 34 P

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SEE

Holland America Line offers a choice of 52Mediterranean itineraries in 2011. Among them: the12-day Mediterranean Empires voyage. Sailing round-

trip from Venice, the 2,106-passenger Nieuw Amsterdam visits Split, Athens, Istanbul, Mykonos, Ku sadasi,Santorini, and Katakolon. Departs April 30; May 22;July 28; and September 9, 2011. Ocean-view fares from$2,189; Verandahs from $2,999.

STAY

For cruises beginning and/or ending in Venice, extendyour vacation with a stay at Hotel Cipriani & PalazzoVendramin . Located amid lush vineyards and gardenson the tip of Giudecca Island, this legendary hotel isjust a five-minute boat ride from Piazza San Marco but

light years away in the peace-and-quiet department.In addition to an enormous outdoor saltwater pooland garden-side spa, the Cipriani boasts the elegantVenetian-glass-adorned Fortuny Restaurant and themore casual Cips Club complete with floating terrace.Virtuoso guests receive a room upgrade on arrival,if available; full breakfast daily; one US$100 resortcredit during stay; and more. From EUR837 (approx.US$1,142) per room, per night.

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Order room service for breakfast. (Theres no extracharge on many cruises, including those from HollandAmerica Line.) True, theres something very civilizedabout a white-tablecloth breakfast in an elegant diningroom but, most days, Jeanne and I preferred the at-homeinformality of drinking coffee and nibbling on toastwhile simultaneously catching up on the news andgetting ready for the day ahead.

Find your own little paradise. More cruise lines arenow offering, for an additional fee, exclusive areaswith an upscale resort-like ambiance. On the Nieuw Amsterdam, you can while away your sea days (or portdays, for that matter) with fresh-fruit skewers, Evianspray misters, and personal iPods in a private cabana onthe top deck.

Sign up for the ships small-group enrichmentprograms. Learn to salsa or tango. Take a wine-tastingclass. Practice yoga. Or pick up tips on taking better travelphotos.

Interested in perfecting your kitchen skills? Enrollin a hands-on cooking class. You never know whichluminaries you might meet. On our Med voyage, celebrity Chef Richard Chamberlain dished and dazzled in theNieuw Amsterdam s Culinary Arts Center.

The Nieuw Amsterdam at sea and (above)the ships posh and private Cabana Club.

Dining in the Hotel Ciprianis Dogaressa Suiteand (below) the hotels legendary facade.

Photos Genivs Loci