The Lesser Sundas

October 2016

Komodo Dragon, Komodo Island Sumba, Rote, West Timor, Alor, Flores, Komodo, Lombok

1

The Lesser Sundas, October 2016:

Sumba, Rote, West Timor, Alor, Flores, Komodo, Lombok

Introduction

This report details a month long trip around the most accessible parts of the Lesser Sundas. The trip

was undertaken with Shaun Coyle, Duncan Wilson, and Jon Gallagher. Early logistics and itinerary

pre-planning came from Shaun, with input from the rest of us.

Pre-trip Logistics

The various trip reports posted on Cloudbirders (www.cloudbirders.com) for the region were accessed

prior to the trip. Another top resource, the Birds Indonesia website (www.burung-nusantara.org), was

also used in trip planning. The trip reports we used most in the field were:

Erwin & Peter Collaerts, Tom Theuwis (2011) Birding Trip Report to The Lesser Sundas.

From the “traditional” places to the adventures of a few smaller islands, Sumba – Roti – Alor

– Pantar – Flores – Komodo. June 19 – July 17 2011.

Hervé & Noëlle Jacob (2015) Lesser Sundas: Sumba, West Timor, Rote Island, Flores

Henk Hendricks (2008), Lesser Sundas (Nusa Tenggara), 23 July-20 August 2008;

George Wagner (2009), Islands of the Lesser Sundas and Remote Moluccas, 12 August – 7

October and 27 October – 7 November 2009

Jon Hornbuckle (2012) Eastern Indonesia 26 Sept to 25 Oct 2012 (info on Alor);

Other trip reports on Cloudbirders were also downloaded and used for background reading and for

useful information on sites and logistics.

Reports from bird tour companies provided additional information. The two main tour companies to

have included the Lesser Sundas as part of their portfolios in the recent past are Birdtour Asia and

Birdquest. Bird2Asia and Rockjumper also provided tour reports from 2015; with all the tour reports

linked through Cloudbirders.

Bird calls were obtained from the excellent Xeno Canto (www.xeno-canto.org).

Thanks are extended to all above who have provided information and/or resources. Additional thanks

go to Peter Collaerts, who kindly provided further details and GPS points from his trip in 2011.

Field Guide & Nomenclature

An excellent new Indonesian field guide was published whilst we were in Indonesia, this is a must for

birders visiting this region: James A. Eaton, Bas van Balen, Nick W, Brickle, Frank E. Rheindt (2016)

Birds of the Indonesian Archipelago. Greater Sundas and Wallacea, Lynx Publications

This report has attempted to follow the taxonomy & nomenclature provided in the new field guide.

Alternative common names, and occasionally potential further splits (mentioned in the book’s text),

are provided in brackets.

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A Note on Timing/Weather

September/October is the end of the dry season in the Lesser Sundas. During the trip the only

significant rain we experienced was on Sumba and Flores, particularly the Ruteng area, where it

rained every afternoon until near dark.

Locations

Overview Map

The map below shows the general locations visited

GPS locations

GPS files for birding sites and logistics are provided as a .KMZ file here for each Island. The

locations of these files can also be seen on this Google Maps page. The aerials maps below are

derived from these.

We used the free android App. Navigator available on a tablet/smart phone as a Sat Nav and GPS.

The base map for Indonesia is downloadable so can be used off line, and although it doesn’t include

every road on these remote islands, was a great resource to getting us to the locations. The GPS refs

can be uploaded on the mapping via a second App. KML/KMZ Waypoint Reader (can then be used as

a sat nav to locate sites and waypoints).

Costs

The currency in Indonesia is the Indonesian Rupiah (IDR) at the time of visit the exchange rate was

£1 = IDR16,500 through a money changer at Jakarta International Airport.

Flights

My long haul flight with Garuda Indonesia was £390.00 (a return London Heathrow to Jakarta). Nine

internal flights were booked using various carriers. The total cost of the internal flights came to

£266.40 (averaging c£30 per flight). I used an intermediary website to book all my internal flights:

https://en.tiket.com/. This was efficient and I had e-tickets within 24 hours for all flights booked.

Ferries, Hire Cars, Taxis, Angkot/Bemos (mini buses), Hotels etc

The costs are provided in the relevant sections of the trip report, along with a daily breakdown of all

costs in the excel sheet here (except food, which probably cost us on average IDR30,000 a meal).

Visa

A free Visa on Arrival is obtainable for a maximum of 30 days if you arrive in the country through

Jakarta International Airport. The extended visa still costs and is obtainable from the Indonesian

Embassy in London, valid for 60 days (cost £40 but inc. postage charges & special delivery SAE =

£53).

The trip cost in total was around £1,200 (including the return long haul flight cost).

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Sumba

Rote

Alor

Flores

Komodo Lombok

Sumbawa

Bali

Wetar

Map 1: Locations of Islands visited and other main Islands

West Timor

Islands Visited:

(1) Sumba (2) Rote (Roti) (3) West Timor (4) Alor (5) Flores (6) Komodo (7) Lombok

Sawu

Lembata

Pantar Timor Leste

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Itinerary

Date am pm eve Accom Location

01/10/2016 Flight to Waingapu Yumbu then drive to Liwa & KM51 KM51 Jonnies Homestay Sumba

02/10/2016 KM51 rained off KM51 Jonnies Homestay Sumba

03/10/2016 KM68-72 local farmland KM68-72 Jonnies Homestay Sumba

04/10/2016 KM88 then hitch back to KM72 rained off KM68-72 Jonnies Homestay Sumba

05/10/2016 KM51 Bus to Waingapu Waingapu Hotel Sandlewood Sumba

06/10/2016 Londa Lima Beach Flight to Kupang Kupang Hotel Maliana West Timor

07/10/2016 Ferry to Rote Sotimori Bolatena Rens Maku ‘Homestay’ Rote

08/10/2016 Bolatena/Ferry to Kupang Kupang Kupang Hotel Maliana Rote

09/10/2016 Camplong Camplong Camplong Homestay Camplong West Timor

10/10/2016 Bipolo grasslands Bipolo Forests Camplong Homestay Camplong West Timor

11/10/2016 Camplong Ole Nasi Soe Hotel Cahaya West Timor

12/10/2016 Soe to Fatumnasi Fatumnasi lower forest Homestay Mathius Anin Homestay West Timor

13/10/2016 Mount Mutis main trail Mount Mutis main trail Homestay Mathius Anin Homestay West Timor

14/10/2016 Fatumnasi lower forest Fatumnasi lower forest Homestay Mathius Anin Homestay West Timor

15/10/2016 Fatumnasi lower forest Fatumnasi lower forest Homestay Mathius Anin Homestay West Timor

16/10/2016 Drive to Kupang Kupang Kupang Hotel Maliana West Timor

17/10/2016 Flight to Alor Taxi to Apui Subo road Homestay Apui Alor

18/10/2016 Telecom Trail Two bridges area Two bridges area Homestay Apui Alor

19/10/2016 Two Bridges area/access road Apui to coast access road Two bridges area Homestay Apui Alor

20/10/2016 Two Bridges area taxi to Kalabahi Kalabahi Homestay Dinda Alor

21/10/2016 Flight to Kupang Kupang Kupang Hotel Maliana West Timor

22/10/2016 Ruteng Poco Ranaka/rain Poco Ranaka Hotel Rana Flores

23/10/2016 Golo Lusang Road rained off Golo Lusang Road Hotel Rana Flores

24/10/2016 Pagal Road rained off Ruteng Hotel Rana Flores

25/10/2016 Dana Rana (inc pre dawn) Kisol Forest Patch Kisol Forest Patch Kisol Seminary Flores

26/10/2016 Kisol Forest Patch rained off Kisol Forest Patch Kisol Seminary Flores

27/10/2016 Kisol Forest Patch/travel to Ruteng Poco Ranaka/rain Poco Ranaka Hotel Rana Flores

28/10/2016 Taxi to Labuan Bajo Puarlolo Labuan Bajo Hotel Blessing Flores

29/10/2016 Komodo Komodo Labuan Bajo Hotel Blessing Komodo

30/10/2016 Labuan Bajo Mangroves southwest of LBJ Labuan Bajo Hotel Blessing Flores

31/10/2016 Flight to Denpasar, Bali Flight to Lombok Forest patch near Senggigi Hotel Puri Lombok

01/11/2016 Flight to Denpasar, Bali End of Lesser Sundas section of trip Lombok

5

Selected Diary

The sections below describe trip highlights.

(1) Sumba

Introduction

This was a good start to our time in the Lesser Sundas, with the birding sites close together and a

reasonable number of endemics as targets.

Logistics

We visited two main locations, where all island endemics can be found. Firstly the north coast around

the town of Waingapu, where two sites were visited. In Waingapu we stayed at the Sandlewood

Hotel near the centre of town (IDR187,000 twin non a/c). From the airport we took a taxi for

IDR600,000 for most of the day use. This was from Hans (+62812-3978-4435). He took us to the

Yumbu grasslands east of Waingapu, and then south along the main island road to Liwa, with a stop

at KM51 before Liwa until dark. The two sites birded around Waingapu were:

Yumbu Grasslands – An area of open savannah like grassland east of town (12km from the

airport). Aim for a road bridge at Yumbu. We walked the grasslands south east of the bridge,

and also briefly north of the bridge;

Londa Lima Beach – On the final morning before our flight out, we visited this coastal area

north west of Waingapu. To get here we flagged down an Angkot/Bemo (minibus), which

cost IDR100,000. We hitched back.

The second location is around the village of Liwa in the hills on the centre of the island. Here we

stayed at Jonnies Homestay (perhaps same as the Hary Homestay?), which charged IDR100,000 per

night for a basic single room (there were no signs on the main road, so the GPS ref is useful). The

birding sites visited from this location included:

KM51 Forest Patches – East of Liwa. A small track heads south from the road and after a

few hundred metres enters the first forest patch. The trail goes through the forest past a small

pond and then through a large clearing to the second patch of forest. It can then be followed

to further patches of forest and clearings. Most targets were seen within the first two forest

patches and the clearings/edges of these patches;

KM66-72 Roadside Forest – West of Liwa; this stretch of road goes through forest within

Manupeu-Tanah Daru National Park. The forest is patchy at either end, but being

close to Liwa is an easy location to bird along. Traffic is a bit of an issue. We birded

this site on one morning and two afternoon/evenings;

KM88 Forest Watch point – Another part of Manupeu-Tanah Daru National Park is

present just past KM88, with forest along the road at KM93-98. We visited KM88

early morning to reach a watch point in open grassland outside the forest to view the

canopy for parrots, particularly Orange-crested Cockatoo. The path from KM88

heads south from the road, over a couple of small streams and up an open hillside to a

view of the forest to the west and south;

Farmland around Liwa – A number of open country birds were noted around the rice

paddies and farmland at Liwa including Five-coloured & Pale-headed Munias and Barn Owl.

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The two roadside locations within Manupeu-Tanah Daru National Park (KM66-72 and KM88

area) required payment of a daily national park fee of IDR150,000 and accompanying by a

ranger, who found us birding along KM68-72 on the first morning (probably tipped off by the

homestay or locals in Liwa). The ranger charged IDR100,000 a day (inc. night visits), and

although we initially resisted his presence, he was actually knowledgeable on the bird life,

and friendly.

Highlights:

Sumba Buttonquail – 2-3 birds flushed and one seen on the ground south east of the Yumbu bridge,

near a gulley, but in the open grasslands.

Orange-crested Cockatoo – A group of three birds seen distantly at the KM88 viewpoint early

morning.

Sumba Hornbill – A male seen west of Liwa at a nest site feeding fruit to a female (unseen). A male

and a pair were seen over the forest at the KM88 viewpoint

Owls & Nightjars – Little Sumba Boobook was seen around the forest patches in KM51 and around

KM70 along the road. Great Sumba Boobook was seen around KM66 along the main road (the first

substantial bit of forest from Liwa), and heard at the second forest patch at KM51.

(Eastern/Australasian) Barn Owl was seen west of Liwa around the school south of the main Liwa

road. Mees’s Nightjar was seen on two nights on the edge of the first and second forest patches at

KM51.

Red-naped Fruit Dove – A bird was seen at the large KM51 clearing after the first forest patch.

Birds were also seen at the KM88 view point.

Sumba Green Pigeon – A flock of c30 at the near edge of the first forest patch at KM51 and a couple

of birds on another day in the clearing after the first forest patch.

Elegant Pitta – Seen at the KM51 clearing around the second forest patch and a few birds seen

around KM70 of the main road. Relatively vocal during our visit.

Chestnut-backed Thrush – A singing bird at the start of the second forest patch at KM51 was

recorded and taped into view.

Cinnamon-banded Kingfisher – Seen at edge of forest after second forest patch and heard at KM68-

72.

Flycatchers – Sumba Warbling Flycatcher (Flores/Russet-backed Jungle Flycatcher) was seen in

KM51 forest patches and in the forest at KM68-72; Sumba Flycatcher seen well in the first forest

patch by the pond at KM51, also recorded singing at dawn in the small stream crossing to the KM88

viewpoint and heard at KM68-72. Sumba Brown Flycatcher seen in the canopy of tall trees around

the edges of the large forest clearing after the first forest patch at KM51. Tenggara Paradise

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Flycatcher (Blyth’s/Asian Paradise Flycatcher) was seen well at a few locations, particularly

around the large forest clearing after the first forest patch at KM51.

Wallacean (Spectacled/Tenggara Spectacled) Monarch – Seen a couple of times at KM51 (esp.

second forest patch) and KM68-72

Cuckooshrikes – Wallacean (Sumba) Cuckooshrike and Pale-shouldered Cicadabird seen around

the edges of the forest patches at KM51.

Marigold Lorikeet (Rainbow Lorikeet) - Seen in the valley around KM71 near the edge of the

forest. Also seen from the viewpoint at KM88.

Sumba Myzomela – Seen a couple of times in the forest at KM68-72, with best sightings around

KM69.

Sumba Spangled (Wallacean) Drongo – Common in all forested areas visited.

Wallace’s Heleia (Yellow-ringed White-eye), Apricot-breasted Sunbird & Sumba (Blood-

breasted) Flowerpecker – Common around forest edges

‘Olive-backed’ Tailorbird – A population of Tailorbirds has recently been found by Craig

Robson/Birdquest north west of Wainggapu. They appear to be Olive-backed Tailorbird but there are

suggestions they may be vocally slightly different, and are separated from the previous known range.

Common in coastal scrub at Londa Lima beach.

Other notable birds included – Orange-footed Scrubfowl, Brown Quail, Green Junglefowl, Black-

winged Kite, Pacific Baza, Short-toed Snake Eagle, Spotted Harrier, Black Kite, Metallic

Pigeon, Black-naped Fruit Dove, Asian Emerald Dove, Green Imperial Pigeon, Lesser Coucal,

Pacific Koel, Sunda Brush (Rusty-breasted) Cuckoo, Tenggara (Glossy) Swiftlet, Pacific Swift,

Common (Oriental) Dollarbird, Collared Kingfisher, Cinnamon-banded Kingfisher, Blue-tailed

Bee-eater, Indonesian (Spotted) Kestrel, Eclectus Parrot, Great-billed Parrot, Red-cheeked

Parrot, Helmeted (Tenggara) Friarbird, White-breasted Woodswallow, Lesueur’s (White-

shouldered) Triller, Tenggara (Rusty-breasted/Golden) Whistler, Black-naped (Tenggara

Golden) Oriole, Supertramp (Arafura) Fantail, Grey-headed Canary-flycatcher, Cinereous Tit,

Australasian (Horsfield’s) Bushlark, Striated Swallow, (‘Double’) Zitting Cisticola, Ashy-bellied

White-eye, Short-tailed Starling, Pied Bushchat, Tenggara (Thick-billed) Flowerpecker, Sunda

Zebra Finch, Five-coloured Munia, Pale-headed Munia, Paddyfield Pipit

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Map 2: KM51 Forest Patch

A12 - Large Clearing – Red-naped

Fruit Dove, Sumba Brown Flycatcher,

Warbling Flycatcher, Cuckooshrike,

Cicadabird, Sumba Green Pigeon,

Mees’s Nightjar, Raptors.

A11 - First Forest Patch –

Sumba Flycatcher,

Warbling Flycatcher, Little

Sumba Boobook

Edge of first forest patch –

Brown Quail, Mees’s Nightjar,

Spotted Harrier, Sumba Green

Pigeon

A13 - Second patch of forest –

Chestnut-backed Thrush, Elegant

Pitta, both Boobooks, Wallacean

Monarch

A09 - KM 51 Access

track by small

dwellings

A16 - Open forest patches

– Cinnamon-banded

Kingfisher, Wallacean

Cuckooshrike

Pond/hollow by cliff

A17 - wetland

A16 – furthest point/edge of forest

A14 – Edge of forest

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Map 3: KM65-66 & KM68-72 Roadside Forest Birding

N

A21 - Forest around KM65-66 Good for

owls

A25 – Former Clearing now overgrown

A28 - Cafes

A23 - KM68 – Start of Forest Patch

A27 – KM71 valley with

Marigold Lorikeet

A26 – KM70 good for various

species including Elegant Pitta

A22 - Open ground

good for Barn Owl

A24 – Sumba Myzomela

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(2) Rote

Introduction

In birding terms, Rote Island (or Roti) has become most well-known following the rediscovery of the

form of ‘Southern’ Boobook at the northern end of the island by Philippe Verbelen in 2010. This owl

has recently been proposed to be elevated to full species status (Gwee et al, 2016). Three other local

forms of Northern Fantail, ‘Sumba’ Myzomela and Timor Leaf Warbler have been elevated to species

status in the new Indonesian field guide, with a formal description likely soon (Rheindt et al,

unpublished; as mentioned in Gwee et al, 2016).

Logistics

A fast ferry service from Kupang, West Timor goes daily to Baa on Rote (IDR110-130,000).

During our visit the schedule was 08:30 from both ports, which is the ferry we used on outward and

return journeys. A second ferry (except Tues & Weds) runs at 14:00 according to the schedule at the

terminal. You can also fly to Rote – during our visit Wings Air were offering flights to the airport

south of Baa, from Ruteng.

The birding sites we visited were at northern end of Rote. We hired a private car (2WD) and driver

using the information in the Jacobs (2015) trip report: Adi (081 331582051). He speaks no English so

we asked a local Angkot driver in Baa harbour to translate for us, and then give us a lift to where he

was based in Baa. Adi had a work commitment at 9am the next morning, so we hired him for just less

than 24hrs to take us to the birding sites and bring us back the next morning. He charged us

IDR800,000 and stayed with us for the period.

The main birding locations we visited were around Bolatena village and the road from there to

Sotimori hamlet (also sometimes referred to as Daurendale). Just west of Sotimori is Danau Oendui.

This lake can be viewed from the road. A good stretch of forest is present alongside the road here, on

limestone rocks. It took us about 1.5-2hrs to get from Baa to these locations, using the inland

road/tracks that Adi knows.

In Bolatena we stayed overnight in a makeshift homestay, organised by local resident Yarsos

Hersmen Maku shortened to Rens Maku. Rens allowed us to use two rooms and provided a basic

evening meal of fried noodles. He also guided us at dusk and pre-dawn to early morning around the

local area, particularly to where the he knew there were a resident pair of Rote Boobooks. After

negotiation he charged us 150,000 per person for this.

Highlights:

Rote (Southern) Boobook – We visited what may have been the original territory recorded by

Philippe Verbelen, by using local resident Rens Maku. He took us onto farmland near forest edge

south east of the village to see the birds. Poor weather conditions in the evening visit meant no

calling birds. Pre-dawn however the pair were taped into action with good views had.

Rote (Northern) Fantail – A few birds seen in the limestone forest along the road by Danau Oendui.

Also singing at dawn in forest edge at Bolatena.

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Rote (Sumba) Myzomela – A single pair seen in the limestone forest along the road by Danau

Oendui.

Rote (Timor) Leaf Warbler – Again a couple of birds seen well in the limestone forest along the

road by Danau Oendui.

Jonquil Parrot – A bird in the limestone forest along the road by Danau Oendui gave good views.

Timor Stubtail – Seen well in the farmland edge at Bolatena.

Orange-banded Thrush – Seen well and singing at dawn in the farmland edge at Bolatena

Timor Warbling (Blue) Flycatcher - A few birds seen in the limestone forest along the road by

Danau Oendui

Timor (Olive Brown) Oriole & Timor (Green) Figbird – Seen well in the farmland edge at

Bolatena

Timor (White-bellied) Bushchat – Seen in forest edge and open ground in all locations visited and

along route from Baa.

Seabirds – Only a small number of species were recorded during the ferry crossing, with highlights

being Wilson’s Storm-petrel, Red-necked Phalarope, Bridled Tern, Little Tern, Common Tern,

Great Crested Tern, Black-naped Tern, Lesser Frigatebird and Brown Booby.

Other notable birds included – Sunda Teal, Brown Quail, Royal Spoonbill, Rufous Night Heron,

White-faced Heron, Australian Pelican, Australian Darter, Gull-billed Tern, Pacific Emerald

Dove, Barred Dove, Rose-crowned Fruit Dove, Pacific Koel, Australian Brush Cuckoo, Drab

(Glossy) Swiftlet, Collared Kingfisher, Rainbow Bee-eater, Indonesian Honeyeater, Banda Sea

(Plain) Gerygone, White-breasted Woodswallow, Wallacean Cuckooshrike, Lesueur’s (White-

shouldered) Triller, Fawn-breasted Whistler, Supertramp (Arafura) Fantail, Ashy-bellied

White-eye, Pied Bushchat, Red-chested Flowerpecker, Flame-breasted Sunbird, Black-faced

Munia,

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Map 4: Map of Northern Rote (Sotimori & Bolatena)

B05 – Track

south forest

patches

B08 & B09 – Farmland and Forest Edge Good for birding

including all endemics; for us Rote Boobook, plus Timor

Stubtail, Orange-banded Thrush, Timor Oriole, WB

Bushchat etc Access through Rens Maku in Bolatena

B07 – Bolatena &

Rens Maku

Homestay

B04 - Sotimori B06 – Danau Oendui. Forest on Limestone crags to south good for

endemics including Rote Myzomela, Rote Leaf Warbler, Rote Fantail,

Jonquil Parrot, White-bellied Bushchat, Fawn-breasted Whistler etc.

(probably also Rote Boobook). Lake also held selection of waterfowl.

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(3a) West Timor – Bipolo, Camplong & Ole Nasi

Introduction

West Timor has been split into two sections, this section describes the two well-known sites centred

close to Kupang; Bipolo and Caoplong, as well as the forests closer to the town of Soe at Ole Nasi.

Logistics

We arrived in Kupang from Waingapu on Sumba. In Kupang we stayed in the Hotel Maliana,

which served as a good base on each visit to the city. A twin room was IDR215,000 with a/c. The

owner was friendly and helpful. He sorted taxis for us to Camplong IDR200,000 and the airport

IDR80,000. Near to the Hotel Maliana is a well-known night food market and supermarkets (west

along the main road).

Camplong Forest and Bipolo Forest birding sites were accessed from a base in Camplong where we

stayed at a local home opposite the Camplong Catholic Convent (which couldn’t accommodate us).

This homestay provided two basic rooms for us and some food and suggested a donation after our two

nights (we gave IDR700,000 between us). The third site, Ole Nasi (sometimes spelt Oelnasi), was

accessed via the town of Soe. To get to Soe we flagged down a bus from the main road outside the

Camplong homestay (a number appear to go daily between Kupang and Soe - IDR50,000 per person).

Once in Soe we found a cheap hotel, the Hotel Cahaya (twin non a/c IDR110,000). The sites birded

were:

Bipolo Forest and Wetlands (<50m asl). This site contains three main birding areas. The

forest along the main road at Bipolo; wetlands and farmland south of the main road; and a dry

riverbed with forest and plantation north of the main road. We accessed this site from

Camplong by hiring scooters for IDR150,000 a day, organised through our homestay. We

spent one day at this location. The wetlands are good for Timor Sparrow and Munias, whilst

the forest has a range of Timor endemics and the northern dry riverbed area is the only

location we saw Pink-headed Imperial Pigeon;

Camplong Forest (200m-400m asl). This section of disturbed forest is immediately east of

the village of Camplong and we birded the main trail and a few side trails on an

afternoon/evening and early morning. It is a good site for Black-banded Flycatcher and

Timor Thicketbird as well as a selection of other Timor endemics;

Ole Nasi Forest (500m asl). Sometimes called Oel-nasi. We visited this site from Soe by

chartering an Angkot from town to take us back along the main road to the site (IDR40,000),

hitching back after dark. This was birded a single late afternoon/evening. The bird species

here are similar to Camplong, although it also includes Timor Nightjar and is better for

pigeons and doves.

Highlights:

Black-banded Flycatcher – Seen at Camplong on the small trail network behind the hamlet of

dwellings, is said to often associate with bamboo, and this is where we had good views of a pair. A

second male was seen on the uphill track past the dwellings, not in bamboo.

14

Timor (Buff-banded) Thicketbird – A couple of sightings and regularly heard at Camplong. Birds

were seen along the small trail behind the hamlet of dwellings and about 200m before the hamlet on

the main track. Heard in the dry riverbed forest at Bipolo.

Timor Heleia (Spot-breasted Dark-eye/Timor White-eye) – A couple of sightings at Camplong

along the main track. These are unusual birds that seem to go through the forest in fast moving small

flocks/pairs, calling loudly.

Timor Sparrow – A small group including adults and immatures seen around the rice paddies at

Bipolo, by the fence line to the enclosed compound.

Orange-sided Thrush – Relatively common in forest and forest edge. Seen at Bipolo and Camplong.

Nightbirds – Timor (Southern) Boobook – A pair were seen at Camplong, c200m before the hamlet

of dwellings. Birds also seen and heard at Ole Nasi from the second clearing and on the track

between the first and second clearings. This form is also now proposed as a full species (see Gwee, et

al, 2016). A single Timor Nightjar was seen at the second clearing of Ole Nasi and a number of

birds heard from this location. The bird seen only responded to a recording made of its call, but quite

spectacularly by flying to us and hovering at our heads for a few seconds. Vocally, this form is

distinct from Large-tailed Nightjar and is split by the new field guide. (Eastern/Australian) Barn

Owl was seen from the second clearing at Ole Nasi. Savanna Nightjar was heard along the road to

Bipolo.

Pigeons & Doves – At Bipolo, particularly the northern dry streambed area, the following species

were recorded; Black-banded Fruit Dove, Pink-headed Imperial Pigeon, Rose-crowned Fruit

Dove and Timor (Dusky/Bar-necked) Cuckoo Dove. The latter was also seen from the second

clearing at Ole Nasi along with Metallic Pigeon. Rose-crowned Fruit Dove were common at

Camplong and Metallic Pigeon was also seen here on the track after the hamlet of dwellings. Pacific

Emeral Dove and Spotted Dove were also seen. Barred Dove was present in the rice paddies at

Bipolo. Black Cuckoo Dove (Timor Black Pigeon) was distantly heard only from north of the main

trail at Camplong.

Honeyeaters – Were seen at all locations, but were most prominent at Camplong where good views

were had of Timor Meliphaga (Streak-breasted Honeyeater), Yellow-eared Honeyeater, and

Timor (Black-breasted) Myzomela. Timor Friarbird was also seen here and at Ole Nasi and

Bipolo. Indonesian Honeyeater was seen at Bipolo.

Black-faced Woodswallow – Seen from the dead trees noted on the Burung Nusantara website

reference. A juvenile bird was also seen close to the road here.

Timor Spangled (Wallacean) Drongo – Only two sightings between us, both at Camplong. The first

along the main track, and the second on the track past the hamlet of dwellings.

Other main targets: Fawn-breasted Whistler – Seen at Camplong and Bipolo Forests, Timor (Olive-

brown) Oriole – heard at Camplong and Bipolo, Banda Sea (Plain) Gerygone – relatively common

in forest, Timor (Northern) Fantail – relatively common in forest, Timor Stubtail – fairly common

15

by voice, seen at Camplong by hamlet of dwellings, Timor Warbling (Timor Blue) Flycatcher –

Common in forest, Timor (White-bellied) Bushchat – seen at Camplong in forest a few times, Red-

chested Flowerpecker – common, Flame-breasted Sunbird - Common.

Other notable birds included: Royal Spoonbill, Australian Pelican, Little Pied Cormorant, Pacific

Baza, Pacific Golden Plover, Little Ringed Plover, Red-capped Plover, Red-necked Stint, Long-

toed Stint, Sharp-tailed Sandpiper, Gull-billed Tern, Whiskered Tern, Lesser Coucal, Pacific

Koel, Little Bronze Cuckoo, Australian Brush Cuckoo, Sunda Cuckoo, Drab (Glossy) Swiftlet,

Oriental Dollarbird, Collared Kingfisher, Sacred Kingfisher, Rainbow Bee-eater, Indonesian

(Spotted) Kestrel, Red-cheeked Parrot, Lesueur’s (White-shouldered) Triller, Long-tailed

Shrike, Supertramp (Arafura) Fantail, Broad-billed Monarch (Flycatcher), Australian

(Horsfield’s) Bush Lark, Sooty-headed Bulbul, Tree Martin, Sunda Bush Warbler, Australian

Reed Warbler, Golden-headed Cisticola, Ashy-bellied White-eye, Little Pied Flycatcher, Pied

Bushchat, Red Avadavat, Sunda Zebra Finch, Scaly-breasted Munia, Five-coloured Munia,

Timor Sparrow, Eastern Yellow Wagtail.

16

Map 5: Bipolo Forest

C07 & 12 South turn to wetland/farmland, north to Dry Riverbed

C06 – main road through forest.

Large Fig near here.

C08 – Dead Trees good for

Black-faced Woodswallow

C13-15 - Dry Riverbed & Forest good for Pigeons & Doves including Pink-headed Imperial Pigeon.

Track heads south to waypoints C09-11 through

farmland to wetland areas for Timor Sparrow etc.

17

Map 6: Camplong Forest

C23 – Track past dwellings – Black-

banded Flycatcher & Timor Spangled

Drongo, Metallic Pigeon and others

along track

C22 – Small trail network behind

dwellings – Black-banded Flycatcher

and Timor Thicketbird

C21 – Valley into woodland area

worth checking

C19/20 – Main track – good birding

including Boobok, Timor Heleia,

Timor Thicketbird, Honeyeaters,

Orange-sided Thrush etc.

C18 – Turn south onto track

from main road

Main Track

Hamlet of dwellings

18

Map 7: Ole Nasi Forest

C26 – Second clearing good for

nightbirds and pigeons

C25 – First clearing – also said to be

good for nightbirds

Main Road Kupang - Soe

C24 – Start of trail by east side of

dwelling. Head over boundary, then

east to trail.

19

(3b) West Timor - Fatumnasi & Mount Mutis

Introduction

Gunung/Mount Mutis is the highest point on West Timor and a number of range restricted species can

be found on its slopes.

Logistics

We birded two main locations, staying in the village of Fatumnasi. To get to Fatumnasi from Soe we

took an Angkot/Bemo (IDR25,000 each) to Kapan. Here we were dropped in the centre of town and

organised a 2WD vehicle to take us to Fatumnasi (IDR200,000). There were many drivers touting

for business as soon as we got off the Angkot, so organising a car or ojek should not be an issue. The

road was not great, but our driver managed ok in a 2WD. For the return, we organised a shared pick-

up from the village that was heading all the way to Kupang (IDR50,000 each).

At Fatumnasi we stayed in the homestay of Mathius Anin. This was in rustic traditional style twin

bed huts with basic showering facilities. The charge was IDR100,000 a night per person and including

basic meals of noodles and/or rice. Mathius is very friendly and welcoming, and he or one of his

relatives can show you the trails if you want; we used this option on the first two days for heading to

the two main birding sites. Following this we birded the Fatumnasi forest area on our own.

The two areas we visited were:

Gunung Mutis trail – this is accessed by walking (or driving) north of the village along the

un-made road/track into open grazed forest, climbing the mountain until a clearing with a

pond. Here a foot trail heads off from the main track through more intact forest, climbing to a

large clearing overlooking the forested slopes of the mountain and with views of the summit.

This is as far as we went, but the trail continues up to the summit;

Fatumnasi Forest – An area of mostly open forest south west of the village of Fatumnasi.

There are many indistinct trails into this area, and Mathius can show you these if requested.

He guided us on our first late afternoon trip out to an area of forest immediately west of the

homestay. A drivable track through the forest is easy to find by walking c10 minutes south of

the village on the main road and taking a right turn and heading south west. From here many

small trails drop away below the forest track and can be explored. The map below shows one

small trail that leads to a stream area that was productive on our visit, and past that to a nice

forest clearing.

Highlights:

Timor Imperial Pigeon – A single calling and displaying bird was seen along the Gunung Mutis trail

from the south eastern end of the large clearing after scanning over the forest for c1.5hrs. With good

views in sunlight we could see that it is lighter than the illustrations in the field guides, being a

medium ‘Woodpigeon’ grey with pink infusion, as opposed to the darker colours more akin to

Metallic Pigeon (a photo is provided at the end of the report).

Other Pigeons: Metallic Pigeon was seen on a number of occasions in both areas. The form on Timor

does not have a white throat. Black Cuckoo Dove (Timor Black Pigeon) was heard distantly in the

20

Fatumnasi forest area (SC flushed a bird in Fatumnasi Forest on another occasion), Pacific Emerald

Dove was seen in the Fatumnasi forest area, Black-backed Fruit Dove was seen on a number of

occasions in both areas visited.

Timor Leaf Warbler & Timor (Blood-breasted) Flowerpecker – A few seen on the Gunung Mutis

track and trail to the clearing. Also recorded around the forest south west of Fatumnasi.

Timor Heleia (Spot-breasted/Timor Dark-eye) – A small group seen in forest below the bend in the

main forest track at Fatumnasi forest.

Pygmy Cupwing (Wren Babbler) – Frequent by voice on the Gunung Mutis track/trail & seen well.

Parrotfinches – Both Mount Mutis Parrotfinch and Tricoloured Parrotfinch were seen on a few

occasions in the open forest south west of Fatumnasi. The birds were seen feeding on the ground in

the open grazed woodland, where there are many small trails, they were also seen around the small

stream area highlighted on the map below, feeding on small white flowered weeds, and above this

area in the small river valley. Can be picked up on high pitch calls, but are still secretive, shy and

difficult to observe well. Mount Mutis (Timor) Parrotfinch is yet to be formally described, having

only recently been discovered by James Eaton/Birdtour Asia in 2012 (see here).

Parrots – This was the best place we visited in the Lesser Sundas for sheer numbers of parrots, with

big flocks of Olive-headed Lorikeet, particularly on the Gunung Mutis track before the clearing with

the pond and trail. This species was also common in the Fatumnasi forest area. Iris Lorikeet was

seen well on a couple of occasions around the stream area and where the forest track bends at

Fatumnasi Forest. Jonquil Parrot was seen in Fatumnasi Forest in the clearings by the stream.

Cinnamon-banded Kingfisher, Timor Stubtail, Timor (Buff-banded) Thicketbird, Timor

(White-bellied) Bushchat – All recorded around the stream area on minor trail at Fatumnasi forest

Thrushes – Orange-banded and Chestnut-backed Thrushes were recorded on a couple of

occasions around Fatumnasi Forest. Island Thrush was common along the Mount Mutis track, and

seen a couple of times around the forest at Fatumnasi too.

Drab (Glossy) Swiftlet –Noted roosting in natural tree cavities at Fatumnasi Forest.

Other notable birds included: Bonelli’s Eagle, Brown Goshawk, Little Bronze Cuckoo, Australian

Brush Cuckoo, Sunda Cuckoo, Collared Kingfisher, Indonesian (Spotted) Kestrel, Timor

(Black-breasted) Myzomela, Yellow-eared Honeyeater, Timor Friarbird, Banda Sea (Plain)

Gerygone, Wallacean Cuckooshrike, Lesueur’s (White-shouldered) Triller, Tenggara

(Golden/‘Yellow-throated’) Whistler, Timor (Green) Figbird, Timor (Olive-brown) Oriole,

Timor (Northern) Fantail, Supertramp (Arafura) Fantail, Southern Jungle (Large-billed) Crow,

Sooty-headed Bulbul, Tree Martin, Sunda Bush Warbler, Mountain White-eye, Short-tailed

Starling, Timor Warbling (Blue) Flycatcher, Snowy-browed Flycatcher, Little Pied Flycatcher,

Pied Bushchat, Red-chested Flowerpecker, Scaly-breasted Munia, Paddyfield Pipit.

21

Map 8: 3D Aerial of Gunung Mutis Track

C29 – Fatumnasi Homestay

Turn right here

C40 – Forest on main trail good for various species including parrots, Timor Leaf Warbler, Timor Flowerpecker, Island Thrush, Metallic Pigeon etc

Start of forest and Govt. Offices

C39 - Pygmy Cupwing

N

C41 – Clearing with pond.

Start of smaller trail

C42 – Intact forest

C43/44 – Large clearing on saddle. Timor

Imperial Pigeon seen at C44.

Gunung Mutis Summit

22

Map 9: 3D Aerial of Fatumnasi Forest Area South West of Fatumnasi Village

N

Fatumnasi Homestay

C31 – Turn off main

road onto forest

track

C32 – Many small trails south of

forest track can be good for

Parrotfinches C33-35 – Small trail past a couple of stream

crossings. Good area for targets during our visit

C36 - Clearing

C37 – Good area below bend in

forest track during our visit

C38 – Open area in valley with

landslips

Forest track

Forest track

23

(4) Alor

Introduction

This island has influences from Timor to the south and Flores to the west. The endemic form of

Southern Boobook has recently been split (Gwee et al, 2016) as Alor Boobook (including populations

on Pantar). The new field guide provides another two new species, Alor Myzomela and Alor

Cuckooshrike, but subsumes the ‘Timor Bush Warbler’ populations with ‘Javan Bush Warbler’ as

Sunda Grasshopper Warbler. A number of other range restricted species are also possible.

Logistics

There are daily flights from Kupang on West Timor to Alor Island Airport near Kalabahi on Alor.

The airport is a few km out of town on the north coast. In Kalabahi we stayed at the Dinda

Homestay (IDR225,000 for twin a/c). We visited a single birding site – Apui – which is a village in

the highlands at the centre of the island. We took a taxi there from the airport (IDR500,000) and

presented ourselves at the main government office in the village and asked permission to visit and

stay in a local house. The village head allowed us to use two rooms in his house (IDR100,000 for

double room + meals IDR50,000 a day). We also had help from a local resident acting as a fixer -

Ella, who spoke good English and helped with our requirements, and Pak Uben (Spelling may be

wrong) who showed us some local trails on the first day for IDR150,000. Ella helped us hire scooters

on one day to allow greater freedom to access eg the forested valleys north of Apui, and the Telecom

access track/road.

The main birding areas we visited around Apui were:

Telecom Trail – This trail starts at the southern edge of Apui and ascends 500m to the

Telecom at the trail summit (c1250m asl). The trail and side trails go through some of the

best forest still present around the village, which survive in steeper gullies. All target birds

could potentially be seen along this trail. You can also access this trail from the highest point

at the telecom, as a dirt access road is present to the west of Subo;

Two Bridges Area – Small fragments of forest, plantation, marshes and village cultivation

provide a mosaic of habitat, and this area was where we had good views of Alor Boobook;

Apui Access Road – After turning off the main north coast road, the road to Apui climbs

along a ridge, with valleys on either side. About 6-10km out of Apui the road provides

various viewpoints where the part forested valleys can be viewed for target species such as

Flores Hawk Eagle, Flores Green Pigeon and maybe also Yellow-crested Cockatoo.

Other sites and discoveries on Alor are discussed in: Colin R. Trainor, Philippe Verbelen, Ron E.

Johnstone (2012) The Avifauna of Alor and Pantar, Lesser Sundas, Indonesia.

Highlights:

Alor (Southern) Boobook – Seen well around the two bridges area, and the forest patches on the

track heading east from there to the main north bound road. Territories are likely to be present in

other forest patches around the village and Subo village. (Eastern/Australian) Barn Owl was also

recorded in farmland and open ground around the village.

24

Alor Myzomela – A couple of sightings on the upper section of the Telecom Trail. This is a new

form of Myzomela only recently discovered by Colin Trainor & Philippe Verbelen (see Trainor et al,

2012 linked above).

Alor (Wallacean) Cuckooshrike – A couple of sightings along the Telecom Trail, particularly the

side trail shown on the map below. The new field guide splits this form of Wallacean Cuckooshrike

as it is the most distinct in voice and morphology, and breaks patterns of clinal plumage variation in

populations though the Lesser Sundas and Banda Sea.

Sunda Grasshopper Warbler (Timor Bush Warbler) – Common on the upper sections of the

Telecom Trail and the start of the side trial shown on the map below. The species is quite responsive

to playback and creeps in along or near the ground, but as usual with these species, is difficult to see

very well. The populations on Alor were originally discovered by Philippe Verbelen (Verbelen &

Trainor, 2011) and the original location was in forest off the dirt access road to the Telecom above

Subo.

Flores Hawk Eagle – A pair seen on the main road north c8km north of Apui. A single bird was also

seen distantly over the forest north of Apui from the homestay.

Pigeons – Black-backed Fruit Dove was seen along the Telecom Trail. Flores Green Pigeon &

Timor (Bar-necked/Dusky) Cuckoo Dove were heard only, and Little Cuckoo Dove seen. all along

the Telecom Trail.

Wallacean (Spectacled) Monarch – A few individuals along the Telecom Trail (eg the side trail).

Elegant Pitta – Seen in the forest patch at the Two Bridges Area, and heard along the Telecom Trail.

Chestnut-backed Thrush – Seen singing at dawn along the track at the Two Bridges Area.

Mees’s Nightjar – Seen well around the farmland areas near the centre of Apui village.

Olive-headed Lorikeet – Fairly common around forest patches at Apui.

Other notable birds included: Green Junglefowl, Black-winged Kite, Bonelli’s Eagle, Brown

Goshawk, Lesser Coucal, Pacific Koel, Australian Brush Cuckoo, Drab (Glossy) Swiftlet, larger

swiftlet sp. (Edible-nest?), Sunda Pygmy Woodpecker, Indonesian Honeyeater, Helmeted

Friarbird, Golden-bellied (Sunda) Gerygone, White-breasted Woodswallow, Lesueur’s (White-

shouldered) Triller, Tenggara (Golden/Rusty-breasted) Whistler, Brown Shrike, Black-naped

(Tenggara Golden) Oriole, Flores Spangled (Wallacean) Drongo, Supertramp (Arafura)

Fantail, Southern Jungle (Large-billed) Crow, Cinereous Tit, Sunda Bush Warbler, Timor

Stubtail, Yellow-breasted Warbler, Mountain White-eye, Short-tailed Starling, Lesser

Shortwing, Pied Bushchat, Black-fronted Flowerpecker, Flame-breasted Sunbird, Red

Avadavat, Black-faced Munia, Scaly-breasted Munia, Grey Wagtail.

Not Seen – Yellow-crested Cockatoo has been recorded (relatively recently) in the wooded valleys

north of Apui.

25

Map 10: 3D Aerial of Apui, Alor (looking south)

Apui

Dirt road to Telecom

D13/14 – Side trail. Sunda Grasshopper Warbler and Alor Cuckooshrike

D16 – Two Bridges Area

Telecom Trail

Subo

Main access road north

D06 - Offices

Junction of main

road/Telecom road

D10 – Junction

of trail

D11 – Good area for Sunda Grasshopper Warbler and Alor Myzomela

D12 - Telecom

D08 - Start of trail at

end of concrete road

N

26

(5) Ruteng & Kisol, Flores

Introduction

We visited highland sites around Ruteng, the lowlands around Kisol, and hill forest around Pagal.

Sites around Labuan Bajo at the western end of Flores are described in section 6 below.

Logistics

We arrived at Ruteng from Kupang on West Timor. In Ruteng we stayed at the Hotel Rima

(IDR225,000 twin standard). This was a base for a number of birding sites around the highlands here.

We hired a private taxi through the hotel to take us to the lowlands of Kisol via a pre-dawn/dawn

birding session at Danau Ranamese (IDR500,000). In Kisol we stayed at the Kisol Seminary

(IDR150,000 inc. evening meal). We then took a shared taxi back to Ruteng from a guy called

Marlon, who was staying/lives on the road heading to Poco Ndeki at Kisol, and goes to Labuan Bajo

most days – via Ruteng (IDR50,000 per person).

We visited birding sites around Ruteng by Angkot/Bemo either chartered for a drop off/pick up, drop

off and hitching back or public bus. Pre-dawn these local taxi’s proved unreliable. We ended up

organising the pre-dawn visit to Danau Ranamese then onto Kisol through the Hotel owner (costs

more – IDR500,000 - but was reliable). Another option is to rent Scooters so you can leave when you

want. In Kisol we walked/hitched to and from the forest patch (the road was being upgraded through

the forest and construction traffic was regular).

The birding sites around Ruteng that we visited were:

Poco Ranaka (summit = c2275m) – A maintenance access track to a telecom substation

through forests on the highest volcano locally. The start of the track is 8km from the Hotel

Rima, east of Ruteng. We never made it all the way up to the summit - it would take a full

day to go up and back down, walking at a birding pace. We got to around 1850m, with the

upper sections we visited the holding the most interest, but with target species seen right from

the start on the main road, where the forest is more degraded. This site is a steep climb

(starting at 1230m), but it has the distinct advantage of getting you away from the busy traffic

that devalues the other sites we visited around Ruteng. It may be part possible on a scooter,

but would be difficult and potentially dangerous as it is neglected as a road, being overgrown

and in need of repair;

Golo Lusang Road (pass = c1710m) – The road from Ruteng to Golo Lusang descends

through forest that holds all the montane endemics and range restricted species. Birding is

mostly done from the road. The pass is 8km from the Hotel Rima and the forest is shortly

after;

Danau Ranamese (lake area = c1220m) – The lake is about 20km from the Hotel Rima in

Ruteng. Again all montane endemics and range restricted species should be possible in forest

around here;

Pagal Road (<1000m) – A section of road north of the village of Pagal (c30km from the

Hotel Rima, to the north of Ruteng). The marginally lower altitude patches of forest along

this road give a slightly different mix of species, with key targets here including Wallace’s

Hanging Parrot, Flores Green Pigeon, and Flores Hawk Eagle.

27

In Kisol we birded one area, the road through a patch of forest at the base of Poco Ndeki (sometimes

called Poco Denki or Gunung Pacandeki), a relatively small coastal volcano with significant forest on

its slopes, south of Kisol. The birding was mainly on a stretch of unmade road through a patch of

forest. The road was in the process of being upgraded during our visit, so there was significant

disturbance, and a workers camp adjacent to the track shown on the map heading south west off the

road. A new development appears to be being built on a road heading to the coast.

Highlights:

Owls – Flores Scops Owl took some work, but one was eventually seen on the Poco Ranaka track

about half way up. There were a number of territories in good sections of forest along here. The

dense nature of the forest, without side trails, makes seeing the birds difficult; and even when they

responded to playback they stayed high in the canopy. Wallace’s Scops Owl was heard only, in two

locations; distantly from the road at dawn at Danau Ranamese; and close to Kisol Seminary in a small

patch of remnant forest behind the football pitch/green, where it was again calling at dawn, but went

quiet when we put the spotlight on the tree it was in. Moluccan Scops Owl was common in the forest

patch at Poco Ndeki, Kisol, with the best views in the forest edge/plantation west of the main road

through the forest.

White-rumped Kingfisher – On voice this is a fairly common and widespread forest kingfisher at all

altitudes we visited. Our best views were of a pair along the patches of forest on the road north of

Pagal.

Bare-throated Whistler – This species is vocal at dawn, and then generally more difficult to see

afterwards. We had views of a few birds on the Golo Lusang road.

Pigeons – Flores Green Pigeon Black-naped Fruit Dove, Green Imperial Pigeon and Common

Emerald Dove were all seen at Poco Ndeki forest patch, Kisol. A number of Green Pigeon were

calling from the forested section of road before the viewpoint, and we eventually had views of a

couple. Parzudaki’s (Ruddy) Cuckoo Dove was seen at Danau Ranamese, along the road and about

0.5km north of the concrete wall. Black-backed Fruit Dove was seen at Poco Ranaka.

Chestnut-capped Thrush – A singing bird was present at Poco Ndeki from the forested section of

road. This was taped in for brief views. As well as the singing bird a further two individuals

responded by giving high pitch calls and occasional brief views.

Elegant Pitta – Seen on the Pagal Road, and heard along the road and side trail at Poco Ndeki.

Flores Crow – Seen on a number of occasions at Poco Ndeki. A pair at the start of the forested

section of the road (by the bend) and then birds in farmland and plantation at the end of the forested

section of the road (in both directions).

Flores Hawk Eagle –A distant bird was seen along the Pagal road.

Parrots – A few flyby Leaf Lorikeet were seen at Golo Lusang. Five plus Wallace’s Hanging

Parrot were seen in flight and briefly perched in a fruiting tree along the Pagal road.

28

Other Lesser Sundas endemics, most being seen at a few sites: Flores Minivet, Chattering (Brown-

capped) Fantail, Russet-capped Tesia, Scaly-crowned Honeyeater, Flores Leaf Warbler, Flores

Spangled Drongo, Eyebrowed Heleia (Cream-browed White-eye), Crested Heleia (Crested

White-eye), Wallace’s Heleia (Yellow-spectacled White-eye), Thick-billed Heleia (Thick-billed

Dark-eye) (Poco Ranaka and Danau Ranamese), Golden-rumped Flowerpecker, Flores Warbling

(Jungle) Flycatcher (only seen once at Poco Ranaka), Black-fronted Flowerpecker, Flores (Blood-

breasted) Flowerpecker (Danau Ranamese).

Other notable birds included: Pacific Black Duck, Green Junglefowl, Oriental Honeybuzzard,

Rufous-bellied Eagle, Short-toed Snake Eagle, Little Bronze Cuckoo, Sunda Brush (Rusty-

breasted) Cuckoo, Sunda Cuckoo, Tenggara (Glossy) Swiftlet, Larger Swiftlet sp., Pacific Swift,

Collared Kingfisher, Blue-tailed Bee-eater, Sunda Pygmy Woodpecker, Helmeted Friarbird,

Golden-bellied (Sunda) Gerygone, Flores Minivet, Tenggara (Golden/Rusty-breasted) Whistler,

Black-naped Monarch, Cinereous Tit, Striated Swallow, Pygmy Cupwing (Wren Babbler),

Mountain Leaftoiler (Tailorbird), Sunda (Oriental) White-eye, Mountain White-eye, Short-

tailed Starling, Brown-throated Sunbird, Ornate (Olive-backed) Sunbird.

Other interest: Flores Giant Rat Papagomys armandvillei was spot-lit on the higher reaches of the

Poco Ranaka track. A photo of the animal is at the end of the report. It was difficult to find other

photos for comparison purposes, although others must exist somewhere. The best I could manage was

of an old black and white photo of a captive pair from Ruteng, Flores in 1973; provided in a research

paper on the Rats (Murids) of Flores (Musser, 1981). The caught animal being held that comes up on

a Google image search of Flores Giant Rat is actually the similar looking Foja Mountains Giant Rat

from Papua.

29

Map 11: Poco Ranaka

E10 – Summit area by

Telecom substation.

E08/09 – Higher sections good forest with Flores Scops Owl and other species such as Flores Shortwing. Giant Rat seen along this section.

E07 – Lower sections mixed species flocks contained a number of targets. Only location we saw Flores Warbling Flycatcher.

E06 – Track entrance from

main Ruteng – Borong road.

30

Map 12: Golo Lusang

E11 – Pass on Golo Lusang road.

E12 – Forest becomes a bit

more open by the road after

this bend.

Good forest birding along the road

with most endemics possible. Good

for Bare-throated Whistler at dawn.

We didn’t explore lower sections,

however the road still goes through

forest.

31

Map 13: Danau Ranamese

E20 – Access to lakeside trails

is possible around buildings

E19 – Concrete Wall by view over lake

Good forest birding along the road

with most endemics possible.

More roadside birding

32

Map 14: Pagal Road

E18 - Start of forest patches

Pagal

E15-17 – Targets of Wallace’s Hanging

Parrot, White-rumped Kingfisher,

Elegant Pitta, Flores Hawk Eagle seen

along this stretch.

E14 – Gapong Village

33

Map 15: 3D Aerial of Poco Ndeki, Kisol

E27 - Start of forested

section of road

E28 – Trail off the road

E29 – Views over forest to

the west

E31 – track through farmland/plantation E30 – new road under

construction

E32 – Plantation and forest

edge

E26 – Turn right

E25 – Remnant Forest patch

behind football pitch

E23 – take road south off

main road by small bridge

Poco Ndeki

E22 – Kisol Seminary

N

34

(6) Komodo Island & Labuan Bajo, Flores

Introduction

The very western end of Flores is the gateway to Komodo & Rinca Islands, home of the Komodo

Dragon. Komodo Island is also now sadly one of the last refuges for the Yellow-crested Cockatoo in

the Indonesian Lesser Sundas, following widespread trapping for the cage bird trade and loss over

much of its former range.

Logistics

We arrived at Labuan Bajo from Ruteng via a shared taxi (IDR60,000) organised outside of the

Hotel Rima, Ruteng. At Labuan Bajo we stayed in the Hotel Blessing (IDR150,000 twin room no

a/c).

The sites we visited were:

Komodo Island – There are many tour operators for a boat to Komodo or Rinca. We were

after an early start and a day return. In the end the best deal was from a boat owner at the

harbour itself. He charged IDR1,250,000 for a trip to Komodo, about four hours on the island

and then return. We left pre-dawn (about 05:30) to get to Komodo for around 09:00 (they

suggest it is a c4hr crossing). On Komodo we paid our guiding and National Park fees

(IDR257,000 per person) and went on the medium length walking trail up to Sulphurea Hill.

This ended up at the NP offices, where a number of Dragons hang out, presumably to be fed

occasionally;

Dolat Wetlands – By taking the road west of town along the coast and then heading inland,

there are a number of farmland, degraded mangrove and woody habitats present. We walked

this road one afternoon seeing a number of commoner open country birds;

Puarlolo Telecom Station – This site is on the main road to Ruteng about 30km outside of

Labuan Bajo. We actually visited en-route from Ruteng by getting our shared taxi to drop us

off on the roadside and then birding the trail around mid-day. We then flagged down another

shared taxi to take us the final 30km to Labuan Bajo. The main target at Puarlolo is Flores

Monarch. However a number of other species are possible including Flores Crow, Chestnut-

capped Thrush, Rufous-chested Flycatcher etc. The trail we visited was behind what looked

like a National Park office building, and it headed south east, splitting, with one trail heading

down the valley and another along the side of the slope. We only explored about 1km along

this trail.

Highlights:

Yellow-crested Cockatoo – Excellent views of a pair at the start of the medium length walking trail

at Komodo. Also a pair or more seen over the forest as we were coming into the harbour at Komodo

Island. The birds were still actively calling as we arrived on Komodo at around 09:00, but were less

vocal after this. The viewpoint at Sulphurea Hill also gives a good panorama over the forest, and

would be a good location to see Parrots, particularly early morning and late afternoon when they are

more active.

35

Flores Monarch – Four or five birds seen a few hundred metres in from the road on the trail behind

the building at Puarlolo.

Kingfishers - White-rumped Kingfisher was seen at Puarlolo on the trail along the side of the slope.

Stork-billed Kingfisher was common at Dolat Wetlands road around any mangrove areas. Cerulean

and Common Kingfishers were also seen around the mangroves here. Collared Kingfisher was seen

en-route to Komodo.

Green Junglefowl & Orange-footed Scrubfowl – Relatively easy to see in the open forest on the

trails at Komodo. They are also fairly tame and approachable.

Other notable birds included: Striated Heron, Great-billed Heron, Pacific Reef Heron, Lesser

Frigatebird, Little Pied Cormorant, Osprey, Brahminy Kite, White-bellied Sea Eagle, White-

breasted Waterhen, Grey Plover, Red-necked Phalarope, Greater Crested Tern, Lesser Crested

Tern, Little Tern, Sunda Collared Dove, Barred Dove, Green Imperial Pigeon, Lesser Coucal,

Asian Koel, Sunda Brush Cuckoo, Blue-tailed Bee-eater, Sunda Pygmy Woodpecker, Australian

Hobby, Helmeted Frairbird, Golden-bellied Gerygone, Wallacean Cuckooshrike, Tenggara

(Golden/Rusty-breasted) Whistler, Black-naped (Tenggara Golden) Oriole, Flores Spangled

(Wallacean) Drongo, Chattering (Brown-capped) Fantail, Black-naped Monarch, Southern

Jungle (Large-billed) Crow, Cinereous Tit, Striated Swallow, Golden-rumped Flowerpecker,

Sunda Zebra Finch.

Other interest – Komodo Dragon – excellent views of a group of large individuals outside the main

National Park offices. A deer carcass had been put out for the Dragons, so there was a fair bit of

interaction between the Dragons around the carcass. We also saw an individual in the forest on the

medium route walking trail.

36

(7) Lombok

Introduction

We paid a very brief one night visit to Lombok to see the endemic and recently formally described

Rinjani Scops Owl. Gunung Rinjani at the northern end of the island is also a recent location for the

Near Threatened Sunset (Scarlet-breasted) Lorikeet, with a group of 18 birds recorded in 2015

above 1500m (reported in Eaton et al, 2015). Unfortunately we did not have any specific details on

where to search for this recently split form of Rainbow Lorikeet, and had only limited time on the

itinerary (the main trials given in Burung Nusantara site information are probably a good starting

point). The new field guide also splits the form of Wallacean Drongo from here – Lombok Spangled

Drongo. As we only birded on Lombok at night we did not try for the Drongo either.

Logistics

We flew to Lombok from Denpasar on Bali, taking a mid-afternoon flight and returning to Bali the

next morning. The main airport on Lombok has moved out of the capital city of Mataram to the

south central part of the island. We took a Damri bus (IDR30,000) from the airport to the coastal

resort of Senggigi, which is just north of Mataram (there is a counter before exit selling tickets). In

Senggigi we stayed at the Hotel Puri (IDR275,000 twin with a/c). The next morning we took

bluebird taxi back to the airport (IDR185,000).

We visited the hills above Senggigi in the evening to search for the Scops Owl, taking a route along a

minor road up the hills to along a stream, with a trail running up through plantation and disturbed

forest along the stream edge. Any of the minor roads heading up hill into forested valleys are likely to

be worth trying.

Highlights:

Rinjani Scops Owl – A pair calling intermittently at dusk, and eventually seen around the dwellings

along the minor road north east of Senggigi, in plantation and bamboo areas around the stream. We

also part walked the trail that leads up past the dwellings and along the stream (although the stream

noise meant listening for owls was difficult).

Elegant Pitta – Calling at dusk to the west of the road.

Final Thoughts

Thanks to Shaun, Duncan and Jon for another great adventure into Indonesia; and for reading a draft

of this report and providing corrections, comments and amendments to increase its usefulness.

Thanks to all the friendly and welcoming Indonesians who assisted us on our travels.

GarethKnass

Berkshire, UK

37

Map 16: 3D Aerial of Minor Roads, Senggigi, Lombok

F03 – Rinjani Scops Owl

near stream here

F02 – Hotel Puri

Minor road up valley

Trail along stream at end of

road/track

Minor trail past some

houses – Elegant Pitta near

here

N

38

GPS Waypoint Reference Tables

A01 Waingapu Airport .

A02 Sandlewood Hotel

A03 Londa Lima Beach Tailorbird, Indonesian Honeyeater, Tenggara Flowerpecker, open country birds,

waders

A04 Yumbu Bridge

A05 Yumbu South Site Good area of Buttonquail in 2016 was south of the dry stream bed.

A06 - Turn off to Lake Jacobs Report ref - Not visited

A07 - Lake area From Jacobs (2015) report

A08 - Mengit Timbi Wetland Site - not visited

A09 - KM51 track access Head south past a couple of dwellings on the right and towards the forest.

A10 - Forest Edge Good for Sumba Green Pigeon, Mees's Nightjar and raptors.

A11 - KM51 First Forest Patch We entered the forest on this trail

A12 - KM51 - Large Clearing This long clearing was good for many species, highlights being Red-naped Fruit

Dove and Sumba Brown Flycatcher

A13 - KM51 - Start of Second

Patch of Forest

Trail through here was good for Owls, Elegant Pitta, Chestnut-backed Thrush etc.

A14 - KM51 - End of Second

Patch of Forest

Trail continues along the edge of the forest patch

A15 - KM51 - Furthest Point This is furthest point we reached on this trail

A16 - KM 51 - Trail along Valley We walked this valley - Raptors, Wallacean Cuckooshrike and Cinnamon-banded

Kingfisher

A17 - Pond Shown on Aerial - not visited

A18 - Jonnies Homestay, Liwa Not obvious from the roadside

A19 - Rumah Makan Cafe

A20 - Local School Barn Owl in countryside around here. Do not enter school grounds without

permission.

A21 - KM65-66 Great Sumba

Boobook

Good section of forest for Boobook

39

A22 - Barn Owl Open countryside with access good for Barn Owl

A23 - KM68-72 Start of forest patch

A24 - Sumba Myzomela Good views of male around here

A25 - KM69.5 Former Clearing Now overgrown

A26 - KM70 Good for various species, including a few Elegant Pitta territories

A27 - Marigold Lorikeet Noted around this valley

A28 - Cafes Restaurants by the roadside.

A29 - KM88 - Trail to viewpoint Small trail off roadside down through two small stream crossings and up to

viewpoint over open ground.

A30 - Sumba Flycatcher Singing here early morning

A31 - Viewpoint over Forest Good at dawn for Orange-crested Cockatoo, parrots, pigeons, and Sumba Hornbill

A32 - KM93-98 Start of nice

forest

Start of good stretch of forest

A33 - Watumabela Not visited - GPS from Burung Nusantara

A34 - Observation point Not visited - GPS from Burung Nusantara

A35 Tambolaka Airport

B01 - Ferry Terminal Kupang For Fast Ferry to Rote

B02 - Ferry Terminal Baa For fast ferry to Kupang

B03 - Inland Road Route to northern birding sites from coast road.

B04 - Sotimori Hamlet Rote Boobook noted from forest south of here by P. Verbelen.

B05 - Track south of Sotimori More forest present here - not visited but maybe area to try for Timor Green Pigeon

B06 - Danau Oendui Forest on Limestone crags to south good for endemics including Rote Myzomela,

Rote Leaf Warbler, Rote Fantail, Jonquil Parrot, White-bellied Bushchat, Fawn-

breasted Whistler etc. Lake also held selection of waterfowl.

B07 - Bolatena - Rens Maku

Home

Rens Maku can provide accommodation and guiding for Boobook.

B08 - Forest Edge/Farmland Good for birding including Rote Boobook, Timor Stubtail, Orange-banded Thrush,

Timor Oriole, etc Access through Rens Maku in Bolatena

B09 - Forest Edge/Farmland Other areas to check for endemics including Rote Myzomela, Rote Fantail and Rote

40

Leaf Warbler. Access through Rens Maku in Bolatena.

C01 - Kupang Airport

C02 - Hotel Maliana

C03 – Night Food Market &

Supermarket

Around here.

C04 - Ferry Terminal Fast Ferry to Rote

C05 - Junction for Bipolo

C06 - Bipolo Forest

C07 - Junction for Bipolo

Farmland

Turn left along unmade track to get to farmland area

C08 - Dead trees Black-faced Woodswallow seen here as per Burung Nusantara gen.

C09 - Rice paddy Timor Sparrow, Red Avadavat, Broad-billed Monarch, Munias and Sunda Zebra

Finch seen in paddies around here.

C10 - Timor Sparrow 3-4 Timor Sparrow seen around the trees here. The track was not passable after this

point, as the gate was closed.

C11 - Fish Ponds Waders and waterfowl present in ponds around here

C12 - Turn off to Bipolo Forest

North

Turn right by small shop

C13 - Entrance to Plantation Follow track through here to dry river bed where woodland is present.

C14 - Tracks continue through

Forest/Plantation

C15 - Dry Riverbed Forest Pink-headed Imperial Pigeon, Black-backed Fruit Dove, Timor Cuckoo Dove,

Orange-banded Thrush and more seen here.

C16 - Camplong Catholic

Convent

Potential accommodation option

C17 - Accommodation opposite

seminary

If Convent is not able to provide accommodation a local family can. We stayed

here.

C18 - Turn off to Forest Head south along the track then left. Target species occur from here onwards.

C19 - Straight on for best forest Good birds in the forest around here include Timor Heleia, Timor Thicketbird,

Timor Stubtail, Rose-crowned Fruit Dove, Honeyeaters, Little Bronze Cuckoo,

Orange-banded Thrush and more.

C20 - Forest Good birds around this area included: Timor Boobook, Timor Thicketbird, Orange-

banded Thrush etc.

41

C21 - Good Valley Many targets can be seen along here

C22 - Small Trail Runs around the back of the hamlet of dwellings and through some bamboo forest

where Black-banded Flycatcher and Timor Thicketbird were seen.

C23 - Track up through forest Birds seen from here include Black-banded Flycatcher, Timor Thicketbird, Timor

Spangled Drongo, Metallic Pigeon & Rose-crowned Fruit Dove.

C24 - Ole Nasi Forest Patch Take track to the side of the house and then right and over fence eventually leads to

track heading north.

C25 - 1st clearing Can be good for nightbirds including Timor Nightjar

C26 - 2nd clearing We saw Timor Nightjar, Timor Boobook, Barn Owl, Timor Cuckoo Dove and

Metallic Pigeon from around here.

C27 - Hotel Cahaya - Soe A cheap hotel in Soe

C28 - Kapan Public Angkot/Bemo from Soe can drop you here, where you can arrange transport

to Fatumnasi.

C29 - Homestay Fatumnasi run by Mathius Anin

C30 - Trails into Forest Many small trails go into the forest, Mathius Anin can guide if requested.

C31 - Forest south of Fatumnasi Access to forest south west of Fatumnasi from west turn off main track and then

following an unmade track into woodland.

C32 - Open Forest Parrotfinches including Mount Mutis Parrotfinch feeding on the ground around here

during our visit. Many trails through the forest are worth exploring.

C33 - Forest trail Parrotfinches were seen feeding on small white weedy flowers from this area to past

the main stream to the west.

C34 - Small Stream Crossing Good area for Iris Lorikeet during our visit.

C35- Stream Crossing Good area with Parrotfinches, Timor Thicketbird, Orange-banded Thrush, Timor

Stubtail, etc

C36 - Large Clearing Metallic Pigeon, Black-backed Fruit Dove etc seen here

C37 - View into Forest Gulley Iris Lorikeet & Black-backed Fruit Dove seen here

C38 - Open Valley Parrotfinches recorded here

C39 - Pgymy Cupwing First Pygmy Cupwing territory and Island Thrush noted around here

C40 - Forest Area Early morning many Olive-headed Lorikeets, also Timor Leaf Warbler, Timor

Flowerpecker, Metallic Pigeon, Island Thrush & Pygmy Cupwing.

C41 - Pond clearing Where the forest trail through more intact forest begins.

C42 Forest Trail Good natural forest all along this trail with many species likely inc. Timor Imperial

42

Pigeon

C43 - Main Clearing Good viewpoints around this clearing to watch for pigeons over the forest.

C44 - Timor Imperial Pigeon Good views over forest here where we had Timor Imperial Pigeon

D01 - Airport Kalabahi

D02 - Hotels are present along

this road

D03 - Dinda Homestay With another homestay across the road.

D04 - Turn Off Turn off coast road to head to Apui

D05 - Valley Viewpoints Viewpoints along this road for Yellow-crested Cockatoo, Flores Hawk Eagle and

Flores Green Pigeon

D06 - Apui Govt Offices Report here on arrival to discuss homestay options and access to local trails etc

D07 - Homestay We stayed in this house

D08 - Telecom Trail Start At end of concrete track go straight on

D09 - Continue Right along Trail

D10 - Junction Straight on for Telecom, left for side trail

D11 - Good Area Sunda Grasshopper Warbler and Alor Myzomela here

D12 - Telecom Tower Trail

Summit

Trail summit adjacent to the tower.

D13 - Sunda Grasshopper

Warbler

A few territories around this location

D14 - Small Ridge with Trail

D15 - Telecom Road Junction Access to Telecom Tower from here via dirt track

D16 - Two Bridges Area Trails around here good for Alor Boobook, Chestnut-backed Thrush, Elegant Pitta

etc

D17 - Farmland Good for Mees's Nightjar and Barn Owl during our visit

D18 - Wooded Valley

E01 - Ruteng Airport

E02 - Rima Hotel

43

E03 - Town Centre Can get Angkots from around here

E04 - Bus Terminal for eastern

routes

E05 - Bus Terminal heading west

E06 - Track to Poco Ranaka

E07 - Lower Sections Good for mixed species flocks - only location we saw Flores Warbling Flycatcher

E08 - Good forest From here to next marker very good forest with Flores Scops Owl territories, Flores

Shortwing, Pygmy Wren Babbler and other endemics.

E09 - Higher Sections Flores Scops Owl and Flores Giant Rat on upper sections

E10 - Poco Ranaka Summit .

E11 - Golo Lusang Pass Reasonable forest as the road drops southwards

E12 - Forest more open south of

here

E13 - Pagal Village

E14 - Gapong village

E15 - Forest Patch White-rumped Kingfisher

E16 - Views over Valley Flores Hawk Eagle seen distantly to the west

E17 - More Forest Good area for Wallace's Hanging Parrot in 2016.

E18 - Forest Patches alongside

road heading north

E19 - Danau Ranamese Concrete Wall area with views over lake. Owls along roadside stretch here.

E20 - Access to Lakeside Trails into Forest around here.

E21 - Borong Hotel and cafes present here

E22 - Kisol Seminary Accommodation potential

E23 - Turn South off Main Road

E24 - Shared Car Ask locals around here for "Pac Marlon" who ran a daily shared car to Labuan Bajo

during our visit.

E25 - Small Forest Patch Small patch of forest around stream had calling Wallace's Scops Owl.

44

E26 - Turn right to head south

E27 - Poco Ndeki Start of roadside forest patch. Road was being upgraded in late 2016 with some

damage to habitat and disturbance.

E28 - Trail heading south

E29 - Viewpoint Looks out onto Poco Ndeki - Flores Hawk Eagle and Green Pigeon possible.

E30 - New Track Heading to development near coast

E31 - Farmland Trail Flores Crow here

E32 - Trail past plantations and

farmland

Some forest present. Flores Crow here.

E33 Puarlolo telecom tower

E34 - Puarlolo Trail Starts behind building.

E35 - Trail Numerous small trials along hillside or descending into valley. Flores Monarch

common along trail.

E36 - Blessing Hotel – Labuan

Bajo

E37 - Harbour Area Labuan Bajo Harbour area

E38 - Dolat wetland area Mangroves along this road good for kingfishers etc

E39 - Airport Big, new and shiny

E40 - Komodo Island Landing

E41 - Ranger/Ticket Office Walking trails requires guiding by rangers.

E42 - Forest Trails Good for Cockatoo, Komodo Dragon, Green Junglefowl, Orange-footed Scrubfowl

etc

E43 - Park HQ area A few large Komodo Dragons around here

F01 - New Airport

F02 - Hotel Puri - Senggigi

F03 - Rinjani Scops Owl At least one territory around here by houses and stream

F04 - Junction with main road

45

A Selection of Trip Photos

Little Sumba Boobook - KM70 west of Liwa, Sumba

Great Sumba Boobook – KM68 west of Liwa, Sumba

46

Elegant Pitta, KM70 west of Liwa, Sumba

Chestnut-backed Thrush – Singing bird at KM51 second forest patch, east of Liwa

47

Sumba Hornbill – Male feeding female hidden within nest cavity, Sumba

Barn Owl – Liwa, Sumba. On genetics this is sometimes split as Eastern/Australasian Barn Owl

48

Wilson’s Storm-petrel – south of Kupang bay – from the Rote fast ferry

Jonquil Parrot – In forest at Sotimori/Danau Oendui, Rote

49

Rote Boobook – Now formally described and separated from Southern Boobook along with

Timor and Alor Boobooks.

Rote Boobook – Bolatena, Rote, in presumed territorial posture.

50

Timor Boobook – Camplong, West Timor. Sometimes called Streaked Boobook

Black-banded Flycatcher – Camplong, West Timor

51

Timor Thicketbird – Camplong, West Timor

Mount Mutis Parrotfinch – Fatumnasi, West Timor

52

Timor Imperial Pigeon – Mt Mutis, West Timor

Iris Lorikeet, Fatumnasi, West Timor

53

Alor Boobook – Apui, Alor in territorial posture

Barn Owl, Apui, Alor. This form (javanica) was until recently considered part of the western

group, but is now considered to be part of the Eastern/Australasian group.

54

Flores Hawk Eagle – North of Apui, Alor

Bare-throated Whistler – Golo Lusang, Ruteng, Flores

55

White-rumped Kingfisher, Pagal Road, Flores

Flores Green Pigeon, Kisol, Flores

56

Flores Giant Rat, Poco Ranaka, Ruteng, Flores

Flores Scops Owl, Poco Ranaka, Ruteng, Flores

57

Sadly we saw more Chestnut-capped Thrushes in cages in Labuan Bajo than in the field in

Flores.

Yellow-crested Cockatoo – Komodo Island

58

Komodo Dragon – Komodo Island

Komodo Dragon – Komodo Island

59

Rinjani Scops Owl – Near Senggigi, Lombok

Rinjani Scops Owl – A pair, the left hand bird looks to be in courtship display & presenting

food to the right hand bird.