The Indoor Gardener Magazine Volume 2—# 4 (Jan./Feb. 2007)

HoodiaGordonii:

The SucculentWe’ve All BeenWaiting For?

Hydroponics:Watering and Irrigation

Fugus Control – Part 1

Fungicides, Molluscicides, Acaricides, Algaecides and Other Gardener’s Little Helpers

A Brief Tour of the Main Fungal Diseases

Which Fruits and Vegetables for My Hydroponic System?

Gallery:

2006 FIHOQ Fair

FREE ISSUEVolume 2 — Issue 4www.indoorgardenermagazine.comISSN: 1715-0949 – Bimonthly

January / February 2007

�THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE �

CREDITS

Volume 2 – Issue 4January / February 2007

Published by: Green Publications

Publisher: J.M.

Managing editor: Bruno [email protected]

Contributing editor: Helene Jutras

Art Director: Anna Kanaras

Editorial coordinator: Bruno Bredoux

Collaborators in this issue:

Kari Bayne, Pierre Bonnard (CityPlantes), Bruno Bredoux, J. Cimino, Nikki Courte, Jean-Pierre Daimé (CityPlantes), Stan Daimon, Daniel Fortin, P. G., Vertuda Green, Dave Guil-lemette, Paul Henderson, Ed-ward Jackson, Helene Jutras, Grigg Kellock, Rob Kelly, D. L., R. LaBelle, Rose Laforêt, L. Murphy, M. M., Josh Morell (Growing Crazy – Hooked On Hydroponics), Soma, William Sutherland (Growing Edge Technologies/B&B Hydropon-ics Garden, vieux bandit.

Sales & advertising: Stan [email protected]@indoorgardenerma-gazine.com

Translation/Copy editing:

Helene Jutras

Cover design: Anna Kanaras after one of her own pictures taken at Flora Montreal 2006.

Illustrations: Anna Kanaras & Cinco

Administration: R. LaBelle

Information: [email protected]

THE INDOOR GARDENER MAGAZINEP.O. Box 52046, Laval, Quebec, H7P 5S1, CANADAPhone: 450-628-5325 Fax: 450-628-7758www.indoorgardenermagazine.comISSN: 1715-0949

© 2007, Green Publications, Montreal, Qc, CanadaArticles, iconographic representations and photographs contained in this magazine cannot be reproduced, in whole or in part, without the written consent of the Publisher.

Legal deposit: Second Quarter 2005. National Library of Canada. Bibliothèque nationale du Québec.

Printed in Canada by Transcontinental

Conversion TableLinear Measure (imperial to metric)1 inch 2.54 centimetres1 foot (=12 inches) 0.3048 metre 1 yard (=3 feet) 0.9144 metre

Linear Measure (metric to imperial)Imperial 1 millimetre 0.0394 inch 1 centimetre (=10 mm) 0.3937 inch 1 metre (=100 cm) 1.0936 yards

Volume (imperial to metric)Metric 1 (imperial) fl. oz. (=1/20 imperial pint) 28.41 ml 1 (US liquid) fl. oz. (=1/16 US pint) 29.57 ml 1 (imperial) pint (=20 fl. imperial oz.) 568.26 ml 1 (US liquid) pint (=16 fl. US oz.) 473.18 ml 1 (imperial) gallon (=4 quarts) 4.546 litres 1 (US liquid) gallon (=4 quarts) 3.785 litres

Volume (metric to imperial)Imperial 1 millilitre 0.002 (imperial) pint, 0.176 pint 1 litre (=1000 ml) 1.76 pints

Mass (imperial to metric)1 ounce (=16 drams) 28.35 grams 1 pound (=16 ounces) 0.45359237 kilogram 1 stone (=14 pounds) 6.35 kilograms

Mass (metric to imperial)Imperial 1 milligram 0.015 grain 1 kilogram (=1000 g) 2.205 pounds

Temperature To convert Fahrenheit to Celsius, subtract 32 degrees and divide by 1.8. To convert Celsius to Fahrenheit, multiply by 1.8 and add 32 degrees.

between Miller and Dr Doom, which some readers may not have seen before calling Dr

Doom®, merging both companies! Miller’s Fruit and Berry has since been discontinued

by Lilly Miller® (source: PAN Pesticide Database, www.pesticideinfo.org) and has been

replaced by Miller’s VegolTM Year-Round Pesticidal Oil Ready-to-Spray (www.lillymiller.com

or 503 205-3273). Dr Doom® makes a similar product: Botanics® Insecticide Plant Spray

(www.doktordoom.com or 1 800 452-0023).

Volume 2 – Issue 2, page 17: The picture published at the bottom left of page 17 to illustrate

our article on burdock was actually showing thistle, as one reader pointed out. Our apologies

for this iconographic confusion.

Volume 2 – Issue 2, page 60: Following a short paragraph on the Aromask product in our

Shopping section, the brand-owning company sent us the following notice: “Aromask is now

Clearoma! Our revolutionary approach to odor treatment time releases vapor pressure reducing

ingredients to alter and eliminate foul odors. Clearoma is an ideal replacement for ozone

machines, using an environmentally safe biodegradable product which is used by hundreds

of hotels and motels (list available) and property managers. Clearoma contains proprietary

odor control chemicals with specific odor suppressing properties. You can visit our website

at www.clearoma.com.” Let it be known: Aromask is no more. Long

live Clearoma! (If you had bookmarked it, the old web site will

automatically redirect you to the new one.)

ERRATA Volume 1 – Issue 6, page 50

Following calls from some of

our readers who may have

read a little too quickly our

article “Spidey-mites, Spidey-

mites, Do Wathever You Can

To Destroy Them”, Grigg

from Doktor Doom® wanted

us to note that his company

does not make

an insecticide

called “Fruit

and Berry”. This

brand name

belongs to Lilly

Miller® Brands,

as stated in

our article:

“One of these

insecticides is the

Fruit and Berry spray made

by Miller. Dr Doom also

produces several insecticides

that kill mites.” Notice the

punctuation mark (a period)

On

the

cove

r: a

bou

quet

at F

lora

Mon

trea

l 20

06

Photos: From the m

anufacturers

TABLE OF CONTENTS

20 PlantPhysiology: Photosynthesis, or Adapting to Immobility By Dave Guillemette

22 WhichFruitsandVegetablesForMy hydroPonicsysteM? By Bruno Bredoux

26 hydroPonics:Wateringandirrigation By Pierre Bonnard and Jean-Pierre Daimé (CityPlantes)

30 haVeeVerythingyouneedinhandWith gardena®

By B.B.

38 cordylines(genuscordyline) By Daniel Fortin

40 Fuguscontrol–Part1 Fungicides, Molluscicides, Acaricides, Algaecides and Other Gardener’s Little Helpers By V.G., W.S., B.B. and P.H.

A Brief Tour of the Main Fungal Diseases By P.H. & B.B.

46 WiththesetWodiFFerentMethods,breed tosucceed By Soma

48 PlantclassiFication:Part6–liliaceae By B.B.

53 hoodiagordonii:thesucculentWe’Veall beenWaitingFor? By Helene Jutras

andourusualFeatures: credits/errata(4) editorial(6) introduction(8) notes&neWs(10to14) tiPs&tricks(16to19) gallery(32to37) cooking(54) shoPPing(55to60) orderForM(60) thehydroPonicWorldoFnorthaMerica(61) Q&a(64) lastMinuteshoPPing(66)

VoluMe2—issue4 / January—February2007

Green Publications VertesGreen Publications VertesGPv

Our indoor garden is moving…

Green Publications wishes to inform you that

both of its magazines (The Indoor Gardener

Magazine and Le Jardinier d’Intérieur) have

a new address and phone number.

Our new postal address is the following:

P.O. Box 52046,

Laval, Quebec, H7P 5S1

Phone: 450-628-5325

Fax: 450-628-7758

In effect since December 1st, 2006

Send any and all correspondence to

this address, including packages and

subscription slips

Prize draw for volume 2 Issue 2:

Thomas J. Knight from Mimbres, New Mexico (USA) is the winner

of the Ecosystem.


Photos: D.R

.EDITORIAL

While 2006 is coming to an end and we are finishing this

first issue for 2007, there are many horticultural novelties

you will not see in this magazine. All the new plant varieties

advertised for this fall, for example… In this issue, you will

not see the Thuja occidentalis ‘Miky’, a 1.2 meters-high small

cedar that likes rubble, nor the Gaillardia aristata ‘Amber

Wheels’, with its golden yellow, red-centered flowers, not

the rose Rosa ‘Felix Leclerc’, part of the Canadian Artists

Series™ developed by AAFC (Agriculture and Agri-Food

Canada)… You will not see the new orchid flower Impatiens

that are being loudly advertised, and the new ‘Bonfire’

begonia, with its trumpet-shaped bright orange flowers,

even less. The ‘Pink Penny’ geranium and its exceptional

cup-shaped pink flowers, veined with deep red, and

the Hemerocallis ‘Spacecoast Scrambled’ with its yellow

bordered corolla will remain, for you, dear readers, names

to dream of and a mystery until these cultivars appear on

the market in early 2007…

Nevertheless, I have seen all these new beauties… but you

will not yet. Why?

Because I am a journalist!

Oh, I am not the type of journalist to risk my life reporting

on Hell’s Angels. I do not climb the highest peaks of

Afghanistan in search of neo-Taliban activity. I’m not the

kind of photographer to clandestinely enter North Korea to

bring back images of an eventual nuclear plant where Kim

Jong II is secretly preparing his atomic bomb. No, I am only a

journalist who attends horticultural

fairs and gardening exhibits. And

yet, when I see in my visor one of

the horticultural novelties listed

above, someone appears between

the lens and my subject. And this

someone yells:

– “I’m going to break your bleeping

camera if you take pictures of my

flowers, bleep bleep!”

– “Oh? I simply want to inform my

readers, and if this doesn’t suit you,

I can erase the pictures, or even

hand you my memory card, dear sir, but do not even kid

around about breaking my $1,000 digital camera!”

– “Oh I’ll break your bleeping camera! And if I don’t, another

exhibitor will, bleep bleep!”

Lucky for me, I managed to calm down the angry

horticulturist, but even once he was tamed, he refused

to let me keep the pictures of his new darling 2007 plant

novelties. One never knows: competition, industrial

espionage, adversaries without ideas of their own… And

yet, I repeat, I was not in Pyongyang with my digital camera

– I was in Saint-Hyacinthe, in Québec! Even a simple group

of topiary shrubs, the most classical and corny kind (those

spiral-shaped shrubs that exist since at least Louis XIV!),

cannot be photographed for this magazine. A woman, her

exhibitor’s card in hand, placed herself between the shrubs

and I… and my picture only shows a plentiful chest bulging

out of a tank top! Patience, dear readers. Or get the Guide

de l’acheteur 2007 for $25, and you can see all of these

novelties… on tiny black and white images!

Bruno Bredoux

The Indoor Gardener

December 2006

What You Will Not See In This New Issue Of The Indoor Gardener…

The new 2007 cultivars? A black hole…

The new 2007 cultivars? A black hole…

INTRODUCTION


Photos: CityPlantes & G

roZilla — Illustrations: ©

CityPlantesINTRODUCTION

In hydroponics, plants grow on a mineral or vegetal

growing medium which is neutral, amorphous and sterile.

Plants prosper thanks to a nutritive solution (water + liquid

nutrients). The support (the substrate or growing medium)

simply acts to support the plants and their roots and spreads

water and air around the roots.

Expanded clay pellets limit evaporation and the formation of

moss on rock wool (Gardex, coco). We can also use quartz

gravel or granite shingles (which do not react with nutrients)

to decorate the pot’s surface.

These materials increase the weight of the pot, which can

be very useful on a balcony or terrace: it will allow your

plants and flowers to resist the wind’s onslaughts. Place a

two-centimetre layer of expanded clay pellets at the base of

the pot to facilitate drainage and root aeration.

1 – Prepare the Plant:

- Remove the dirt covering the roots.

- Take the plant out of its pot, and gently tap the dirt to

remove as much of it as possible.

- Rinse out the roots in plain water.

2 – Prepare the Pot:

- Choose a pot with a drainage hole at its bottom. In this

example, we used a 26-centimetre diameter pot.

- Place a two-centimetre layer of clay pellets at the bottom.

- Wet the rock wool (Garde x, coco fibre) with water containing

nutrients (nutritive solution).

Note: Avoid manipulating dry to prevent the spread of dust.

- Place a 2 to 10-centimetre layer of rock wool in the pot

(depending on its size).

3 – Install the Plant:

- Spread the naked roots on the rock wool (Gardex, coco

fibre).

- Cover the roots with a three-centimetre layer of rock wool

(Gardex, coco fibre).

- Fill up the rest of the pot with clay pellets (or use more

decorative quartz gravel).

4 – Maintenance:

- Water when the substrate is almost dry (once a week

How to Place a Plant in Rock wool Flakes, GaRdex (MixtuRe oF VeRMiculite, PeRlite and Rock wool) oR in coco FibReby PieRRe bonnaRd and Jean-PieRRe daiMé (cityPlantes)*

Break up the lump of dirt

Rinse out the roots in plain water.

Prepare the pot

Clay pellets Rock wool flakes

1

5

Phot

os: B

.B. &

D.R

. — Il

lust

rati

ons:

© C

ityP

lant

esINTRODUCTION

indoors during winter and two to three times a week

during summer outdoors). This besing said, you could

water as often as you like (10 times a day if you please!)

because rock wool (Gardex, coco fibre) always keeps an

ideal proportion of water and any excess is drained. We

suggest (but it is not required) that you adjust the pH of

the water used. Once the pH is adjusted, systematically

add a minimal dose of nutrients.

(* Reproduced with authorization)

(* For more information on Gardex, see our Volume 1 – Issue 3, pages 27-28).

To find out more: www.cityplantes.com.

Install the plant

Maintenance

1. Choose a vigorous and healthy plant (here, a healthy spreading savory plantlet).

2. Remove the plant from the container (handle the plant by its root ball) and allow the roots to spread.

3. Pre-wet the root ball several times.

4. Wash the roots under tepid water.

5. Let the roots of your plant soak for a maximum of three hours, to remove any organic matter.

6. Using scissors, cut the broken or damaged roots (do not tear them off with your hands).

7. Cut the foliage to reduce its mass compared to that of the roots. That will allow the roots to gain strength.

8. Plant in the coco medium in a suitable hydroponic pot.

9. The savory plant in bloom one year after transplantation.

TRANSPLANTING YOUR CROPS WITH SUCCESS By J. Cimino

Clay pellets Rock wool flakes

1 2 3 4

5 6 7 8 9

10THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE �

Photos: Tissue Genesis, Local 6 &

D.R

.

Ilustration: Public Dom

ain ClipartNOTES & NEwS

In Vitro Better Than The Real Thing?By Helene Jutras

Imagine that instead of coming form a slaughtered cow,

your steak came out of a laboratory, where it was grown

in sheets and then perhaps rolled to make it thicker. Gross?

What if that steak was the

leanest you’ve ever seen,

what if it was boosted with

omega-3, what if its texture

had been chosen based on

your own preference and

that you were completely,

entirely certain that no

cow had suffered by

surrendering your piece of

meat? Not so uninteresting now, is it? Well that steak of

yours may well be on its way, and you stand a chance of

tasting it within, oh, say a decade.

What we might see first is lab-grown in vitro ground beef.

At Utrecht University in the Netherlands, Henk

Haagsman and his colleagues are presently working

on growing pork from pig stem cells within the

framework of a government-funded study. They

are now looking for the best type of stem cells to

use, those that will multiply the most when treated

in a bioreactor.

Similar research is occurring at the University of Maryland,

where Jason Matheny is designing sheets of meat. Both

a doctoral student and an entrepreneur, Matheny sees

many advantages to this lab meat: it can be produced and

processed entirely in one location, it would eliminate the need

for animal abuse, would eliminate the need for industrial

farms, for slaughter houses, it would prevent waste (much

of the energy involved in

breeding, say, a cow, is

lost because the animal

uses that energy to live

and develop tissue that

is not necessarily edible),

and it could be tested

and guaranteed free of

disease. Its proteins could

even be modified.

Still weirded out? Consider

Matheny’s view point: “I view cultured meat like hydroponic

vegetables. The end product is the same, but the process

used to make it is different. Consumers accept hydroponic

vegetables. Would they accept hydroponic meat?”

Right now, producing lab-made meat is ridiculously expensive

– between $2,000 and $20,000 a kilogram – but Matheny

hopes to be someday able to produce the same kilo for

about $2, making his lab-meat much more attractive. Many

hurdles remain, however: meat is more than… meat. It has

blood vessels, which make up its texture and taste, and no

one has yet figured out how to grow these, or something

similar. Meanwhile, Matheny says, “we can use existing

technologies to satisfy the demand for ground meat, which

is about half of the meat we eat (and a $127 billion global

market).”

— Source: Wired.com

Beef And Wine Under The HoodExpired beef tripe and illegally

imported Mediterranean bad

wine are found in a Swedish

fuel that is both renewable

and environment-friendly. For

the past 15 years, in Linköping

(82,000 residents), commuter

trains, municipal vehicles, and

now even privately-owned cars

are functioning with this surprising biogas. Making fuel by

treating local waste water was complicated and expensive.

The CEO of Svensk Biogas (Swedish biogas), Carl Lilliehöök

had the idea of using the “clean” refuse of local agri-food

plants and slaughterhouses. “It was hitting three birds with

one stone”, he says. “Slaughterhouses were looking for a

way to dispose of their waste. We needed raw materials.

And farmers needed nutrients.” The decomposition of

waste in a digester takes 30 days. In it are thrown carcasses

from the local slaughterhouse, some of the 6,000 tons of

illegal alcohol seized annually at the border, manure and

selected waste from agri-food and pharmaceutical plants.

The gas obtained from this super-composting is delivered

to Linköping gas stations, while the compost itself is used

as a fertilizer by local farmers. The municipality offers

advantages for drivers who use this biofuels (free parking,

loan of municipal vehicles equipped with biogas for evening

nights about town, etc.). “Cars running on biogas are more

expensive to buy, but the difference is made up in three

years”, says Carl Lilliehöök. “Afterwards, drivers reap the

profits”. Next step: to build a biogas production plant in

the neighbouring town of Norrköping, where the fertilizers

produced will be used for biological farming.

– B.B. (according to Libération)

New On The Market: Coco-can™ 100% Organic And OMRI Certified

Two new coco substrate products from

Hydrofarm are hitting the hydroponics

shops. The quality of coco fibre used

in hydroponics is always improving

and researchers are always working

on products featuring their latest

discoveries.

Coco-can™ Growing Mix 50 L Premium quality Growing Mix.The mix is pre-wetted and ready to use (user-

friendly instructions are featured on the

bag).

Coco-can™ Coco-CapsThey are simply the best organic alternative

to plastic covers for rock wool cubes. Use the

Caps to help prevent light penetration that

may cause algae growth. The 7.6 cm cap fits

the Grodan Delta 7.6 cm cubes. The 15 cm

cap fits the Grodan HUGO cube.

Coco-can™ originates from the rich soils

and fresh waters of the Kurunegala region

of Sri Lanka, in the heart of the coconut

country. The process starts with young

husks that are cured over a four to six

month period. Then comes the removal of

dust and long fibres that can clog systems

and provide a bad rooting environment

– signs of a lower-quality coco.

The next step is the blending of the right-

size fibres and particles, to create a perfect

rooting zone for your plants.

Finally, the coco is washed with fresh water to lower its

sodium content. This extensive process

creates flexible yet durable fibres that are

adjusted for electrical conductivity (EC). With

thorough research and development and

close attention to the customers, a variety of

products have been created to suit the needs

of the hydroponic market.

Coco-can™ delivers a product with the

perfect ratio of air to water. Its good water

holding capacity inhibits plant water stress,

which can reduce productivity, by creating a more generative

environment. In the summer months, 20 to 30% drainage

at watering is recommended, but less during winter.

Coco-can™ is a stable product that creates a suitable

environment for micro-organisms. Because this coco is not

buffered with chemical fertilizers, it has received the OMRI

certification. You can choose to grow your plants completely

organically, or with man-made fertilizers. If you choose to

use chemical fertilizers, buffer with calcium nitrate during

the first two weeks, then switch to a standard nutrient

mix.

Coco-can™ can be used for more than growing plants.

Because of its fibrous and sponge-like structure, it makes

an excellent soil conditioner. It can break up the heaviest of

clay soils or help retain moisture in sandy soils. It is also by

far the most efficient and economical way to rehabilitate

degraded soils without the risk of contamination. Coco-

can™ is odourless, pleasant to handle and has a consistent

texture.

To find a Hydrofarm authorized retailer near you please visit

www.hydrofarm.com or call (707) 765-9990

– M.M.

Two Essential Products Get a New Look!BioLithe and Mycoryzine: These natural

additives renew the soil and bond with

your plants for superior results during

the entire season.

Soluble Mycoryzine With its new, water-soluble formula,

Mycoryzine can be applied with a

simple watering. Mycorhiza live in

symbiosis with the roots. These fungi

explore the soil and create very long

mycelium. In exchange for sugar, they

bring the roots far off nutrients.

BioLitheIn BioLithe, algae and zeolites are

colonized by cleaning micro-organisms.

BioLithe transforms organic matter into

nutrients (including hydrocarbons!).

One of those micro-organisms fixes the

air’s nitrogen to make it available to

plant roots. If you use it with Mycorizine,

you will get surprising results in any soil

or in any pot!

– P.B. & J.-P.D. (CityPlantes)


Photos: Hydrofarm

, University of A

berdeen & City Plantes

NOTES & NEwS

1�THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE �

Photos: Jessy Caron, B & B H

ydroponic Gardens, D

amar®

Worldw

ide & D

.R.

TIpS & TRICkS

A plant grows once all its needs are

met. A warm moist environment will

germinate the seeds. Once the seed has

broken through the growing medium

to the light, the light energy starts

drawing water through the leaves,

creating a negative effect inside

the leaves. This in turn forces

the plant roots to find water

with mineral salts that

have been dissolved into

the water. The plant uses

these mineral salts and

water, with carbon, oxygen

and nitrates from the air to build the

cells that become the plant. Changes

to temperatures, light intensity and

colour of light spectrum will cause a

plant to bloom and reproduce itself.

Then, the process starts again.

G.E.T. Power BoxThe Power Boxes from Growing Edge

Technologies are available in two

different types: Power Box MH (metal

halide), i.e. white light for growing,

and Power Box HPS (high

pressure sodium), i.e. red,

orange and yellow light

used for flowering.

The best source of

flowering light will

use a combination

of MH and HPS light. By placing two

lamps in the flowering room, the light

is unrivalled by any single lamp source.

Using HPS only in the flowering room

is a very common practice, producing

great results.

When deciding on the light wattage to

buy for your growing area, you need

to know the floor space. A simple

calculation will help: length (2’) X width

(4’) = square foot area (8 sq. ft), divided

by wattage of lamp (400 w) = 50 watts

per ft. The minimum wattage should

produce 10 watt and the maximum

light recommended is 80 watts per

square foot. The ideal lighting from

artificial sources is 35 watts per square

foot. The maximum distance your light

source should be from the growing

tip of the plants is 60 centimetres (2

feet). Start with the lamp about 60

centimetres away from the plants’

growing tips. Allow the plants to grow

up to about 40 centimetres from the

light source, and then raise the light to

about 60 centimetres away from the

growing tips.

All G.E.T. Power Boxes come in a

heavy duty cardboard box with

socket protection. These lighting units

carry a two year warranty and are

individually inspected and tested to

ensure trouble-free operation. Each

unit comes preassembled with 1.8

metres grounded cord, 3.6 metres of

lamp cord and a black powder coated

galvanized vented metal box. Please,

for each purchase, specify which

voltage you prefer: 110 or 220 volts

– we have both!

The G.E.T. Power Boxes are available in

the following wattage:

Power box MH Power box HPS

MH 250 HPS 250

MH 400 HPS 400

MH 1000 HPS 430

HPS 600

HPS 1000

G.E.T. barebones

Lighting: The Growing Edge TechnologiesPower BoxBy W. S.

Phot

os: J

essy

Car

on, B

& B

Hyd

ropo

nic

Gar

dens

, Dam

ar®

Wor

ldw

ide

& D

.R.

TIpS & TRICkS

Barebones lighting provides all the components that you will

need to ignite the light. You must wire it together. Barebones

systems come with the following: ballast, bulb, socket, octagon

box and lid, 1.3 metres plug, 3 metre 3/14 wire. No ballast box

or reflector.

When the warranty no longer applies and your ballast stops

working, you will need a core-to-core ballast, a capacitor or an

igniter to get your unit up and operating again.

Here are pictures of those appliances for high pressure sodium

lighting (compatible with the GET. Power Box HPS):

a) Capacitor b) Core-to-core ballast c) Igniter

For metal halide lighting (compatible with the G.E.T. Power Box

MH):

d) 1,500 w MH capacitor e) Core-to-core ballast.

To conclude… turtles! Reptiles love basking under high intensity discharge lamps. These

turtles have lived with artificial light since 1996.

Visit: www.bandbhydroponics.com and

www.growingedgetechnologies.ca or call: 613 723-2132

(fax: 613 723-3507).

What Do Trichogramma Do?This minuscule insect (Trichogrammatidae, of the genus

Trichogramma) of the hymenoptera family, holometabolic

insects, only measures 0.5 mm. Since it is in the

same family as bees and wasps, it is also

called the trichogramma wasp. Not to

worry, though: given its small size, it is

harmless for humans. It is, however,

a powerful and danger-free ally

for us and for other animals,

and especially for some plants,

such as corn, vine, blackcurrant

bush, currant, Virginia creeper,

privet, ash, sloe, Viburnum tinus,

wayfaringtree, false baby’s breath,

ivy and, finally, flax-leaved daphne, a

wild plant from Southern France.

Some species, chosen within this insect’s

family, are the most used in the world for

the invasive biological control of pathogenic insects.

Trichogramma attacks, among others, the larvae of the main

pest of corn, the European corn borer, and many insects

that enjoy lunching on vine: Eurasian fruit roller moth,

Mediterranean vine moth, European grape berry moth (all

varieties of moths that are particularly damaging to the

mentioned plants.) Trichogramma attack larger insects than

them (another blow to my mother’s theory that said small

beasts do not eat larger ones!), since the European corn

borer is four times as large as it is (again, nothing to worry

about: it is only 2 mm long, and only corn

plants should worry).

Trichogramma act as parasites. The

trichogramma larva settles inside

the host’s egg, which can never

hatch, as it is quickly killed by

the larvae, developing at its

expense. The disintegrated

host tissue and its yolk serve

as basic nourishment for

the trichogramma until its

metamorphosis. Once adult, the

trichogramma has a sweet tooth,

and mainly eats flower pollen and

aphid honeydew. It also fools around in

nature, thinking only of reproducing to start

a new cycle and kill another generation of borers and

moths. While the male leads a lazy life, the female focuses

on finding host eggs where she can lay her own eggs.

Adult trichogramma are available on the market, affixed on

pouch-cards that can be hung on the plants that require

treatment. Once the packaging is open, adults disperse

in the field or the indoor garden, start to reproduce and

start looking for host eggs. The female lays her eggs, and

in three or four days, the host-egg blackens and dies. The

trichogramma’s life cycle is already starting over, leaving

behind caterpillar carcasses and healthy plants! In Québec,

pay attention when buying sweet corn: if it bears the “Pest

Control Strategy” label, you are contributing to the efforts

of producers that fight biologically against corn’s pathogens

and in particular against the European corn borer. So be

careful, and buy corn

that is thus labelled: you

are helping to reduce

the use of chemical

pesticides on your

area’s farmland! After

the next corn roast,

get up, and say “thank

you, trichogramma!”

– B.B.

The photos are showing the three stages of the European corn

borer: larva, pupa, adult.

(Sources: INRA, Biotop, Wikipédia and Ministère de l’agriculture,

des pêcheries et de l’alimentation du Québec)

Photos: INR

A Illustration: M

APA

QTIpS & TRICkS

Phot

os: w

ww

.co2

boos

t.co

m

TIpS & TRICkS

Natural Carbon Dioxide In Your Indoor Garden With The Pump-Activated CO2Boost Bucket CO

2Boost is a unique product on the market. The mixture it offers is

a combination of various organic raw materials, including mushroom

substrates as well as the fermentation by-product of different types of

organic composts. Once the ingredients

are selected by the manufacturers, the

various components are carefully mixed

in a specially-designed plant – this gives

us a product that is controlled from A to

Z, a revolutionary product in the world

of hydroponic agriculture.

This product is more specifically suited

to indoor gardeners who work on a

small scale and who cannot invest in

costly installations to produce carbon dioxide in their indoor garden.

With its integrated pump system, CO2Boost distributes natural CO

2

directly into the indoor garden, based on the day-to-day CO2 needs of

plants, and not by measuring the ppm levels in the cultivation area. The

contents of the CO2Boost bucket is comparable to a living organism:

it is thus difficult to calculate the daily emitted CO2 rate of the device.

According to studies done by the manufacturer, however, this rate

should be somewhere around a continuous flow varying between

3,000 and 5,000 ppm (from the moment you activate the pump) CO2,

spread uniformly in the indoor garden for an uninterrupted period of at

least two months, up to two and a half months or even three months

if you use a timer linked to the pump to regulate the concentration of

CO2 in the air (measured in ppm).

The device’s pump plunges directly into the organic mixture that “lives”

inside the bucket and produces a perfectly pure and natural carbon

dioxide, for your plants’ well-being. If your indoor garden measures

less than 60 x 60 x 60 cm, a timer will be required with your CO2Boost,

because once it is activated, the carbon dioxide production cycle

cannot be interrupted and the bucket stored for later use. You should

also know that too high a daily dose of CO2 can be harmful to your

plants and to your pets. CO2Boost’s ingredients, however, are 100%

natural and are, in and of themselves, harmless in their natural state.

The product has the further advantage of being 100% odourless.

For more information on this product, on its wholesale or retail sale,

visit the very beautiful web site of its manufacturer at www.co2boost.

com (email: [email protected] or call toll-free 1 800 955-8384).

– B.B.

The CO2Boost bucket

Phot

os: w

ww

.co2

boos

t.co

m


Photos: Shira Frappa Canada Inc., Orbiocultures &

D.R

.AEROpONICS

The advantages of a rotating garden system with an

ultrasonic fog generator are slowly, but surely, initiating a

revolution in aeroponic cultivation. Here is the complete list

of their characteristics.

Aeroponic cultivation: What is aeroponics? It is a type of

cultivation that allows for rapid growth, a more developed

root system, a strong flowering, sweeter, tastier fruit, an

increased production of resin, a higher oxygen input in

the root zone and an improved control of watering and/or

humidity.

Ultrasonic fog generator: The ultrasonic fog helps root

development, feeds plants from the roots and leaves and

keeps the roots in a thick fog 24 hours a day. It is possible

to give your plants “foliar baths”, even during

flowering. Decrease of problems related to

stagnant water (rot, algae, etc.). The fog is

made up of very fine droplets, less than five

microns in size, that penetrate the plant’s

exterior walls.

Bi-Feeding: The use of two nutritional systems

increases growth, safety and yield. If one of the

systems fail, the other one prevents total loss

and gives you time to fix the problem while the

crop keeps growing.

Variable rotation speed: It is possible to control

growth and internodal distance by controlling

the plant’s stress level with the variable

rotation speed. The plant’s natural hormones,

the auxins, are produced during stress periods

such as a rotation. If the rotation is slow, the

plant will remain longer in an unusual position

(on the side and head down), and will produce

more auxins. Too many auxins will reduce the

growth rate and will force the plant to develop

new cells that are closer together and denser.

Control is achieved by dosing stress to control

the hormone production. During our tests, we

established that one rotation per hour was

not sufficient, because the plant experienced

too much stress. The ideal speed is around

three to four rotations per hour. You can

combine speeds, for example with two weeks

of growth at one turn per hour at first, for

the plant to develop a

thicker, stronger stem,

and then increase the

speed gradually during

each week of flowering,

up to four turns per hour

(maximum).

Savings on nutrients and

substrates: The aeroponic

pump works about

half the time of usual systems, because of the use of the

ultrasonic fog generator. Only 10% of the recommended

nutrient dosage is required for the ultrasonic fog generator.

The same growing medium (rock wool or Jiffy 7) can be

used from cuttings to the harvest, which is an economical

and ecological advantage. The system recuperates 100% of

its water.

Improved CO2 control: The system is closed with two safe-

type doors, which increases the usefulness of CO2 and

provides a better control of it, for improved results.

Improved odor control: You can control odors more easily

because the system is closed. The high odor concentration

remains inside the system.

Increased lighting, two-step growth: The rings supporting

the slabs into which the plants are inserted have two levels.

This allows the gardener to keep the plant as near the light

as possible, from beginning to end. The inside of the doors is

white, which keeps lumens inside and makes them available

to the plants.

Ideal conditions for large plant and yield: The plants all

receive the best conditions for a higher yield. For example:

oxygen to the roots and CO2 to the leaves, control of auxin

production with variable rotation speed, optimal lighting

and no loss of lumens, micro-climate similar to that of

tropical forests inside the system.

This type of system allows for professional results. This

ultrasonic fog generator is manufactured and sold by Shira

Frapa Canada Inc. For fogger information and purchase please

contact SFC (Shira Frappa Canada Inc.) at: 450 829-1177,

or email the manufacturer directly at: www.shirafrapa.com

(click on ‘Contact Us’ button) or www.greenair.com/fogger.

htm. More pictures at: www.greenair.com/fog-photos.htm.

Adventures in Fogging: The Revolution of Ultrasonic Fog Generators in Aeroponic Cultivation By P.G.

V i s i t w w w . h y d r o f a r m . c o mFind a Hydrofarm Authorized Retailer Near You

Bigger, Broader Light Spread• Compatible with All System Cord Set,

ensuring centering of all bulbs.

• Accepts all wattages and all size bulbs.

• Low profile.

• Lightweight aluminum for easy hanging.

• Much lighter than steel reflectors.

• Easily converts into an air coolable versionwith optional gasketed lens.

061127.2 Mondo

V i s i t w w w . h y d r o f a r m . c o mFind a Hydrofarm Authorized Retailer Near You

Bigger, Broader Light Spread• Compatible with All System Cord Set,

ensuring centering of all bulbs.

• Accepts all wattages and all size bulbs.

• Low profile.

• Lightweight aluminum for easy hanging.

• Much lighter than steel reflectors.

• Easily converts into an air coolable versionwith optional gasketed lens.

061127.2 Mondo

Photos: Dave G

uillemette

pLANT pHySIOLOGy

Some will wonder why I associate photosynthesis to the condition of immobility. The link is simple:

imagine for a moment that you are terribly hungry, but are unable to move to fulfil this basic need. In

response to this particular condition, plants have, throughout the years, developed photosynthesis, which

allows them to synthesize the energy they store as carbohydrates (glucose) from the only things that

come to them in their immobile state, namely: water, air and, of course, light. There are two types of food

supply: autotrophic beings (plants) synthesize their own food, while heterotrophic beings (herbivores and

carnivores) eat what already exists, like a plant or a herbivore. Here is, then, a non-technical summary of

photosynthesis, this unique talent of the plant kingdom which places it both at the base and at the top of

the food chain, at the beginning and end of all life.

L i ght: Qual i ty and Quant i tyAll types of light are not beneficial to ensure the healthy growth of plants. Of all the colours of the

electromagnetic spectrum, the best absorbed by plants are violet and blue (short wavelength) and orange

and red (long wavelength). Why are plants green? For the simple reason that chlorophyll is the pigment

found in the highest concentration in their cells and that it does not absorb green, or very little, but rather

returns it toward our eye.

Did You Know That...

• The sun’s light intensity is 100,000 lux?

• That of the moon is 0.2 lux?

• The light received by a leaf is 10,000 lux?

• The sun intensity required for a plant is 10,000 lux?

• ... And 100 lux for a shade plant?

• 1,5000 lux are required to light a stadium at night?

Photosynthes i s

Photosynthesis is a phenomenon that allows a plant, starting with the sun’s light, to produce chemical

energy which it places inside molecules like glucose, that will later become food and will as such enable

the functioning of the organisms in charge of photosynthesis.

Its global equation is:

6 H2O + 6CO2 —> C6H12O6 + 6O2 + heat.

It can be simplified thus:

6 water + 6 carbon dioxide —> glucose + 6 oxygen + heat.

To translate this into words, let’s simply say that the goal of photosynthesis is to extract the carbon

molecule of carbon dioxide and to associate it to the water molecule to release oxygen and heat generated

by the chemical reaction.

Photosynthesis, or Adapting to Immobility

By Dave Guillemette


pLANT pHySIOLOGy

L i ght PhaseThe light phase, or photophosphorylation (cyclic and acyclic)

is the part of photosynthesis that occurs during the day. To

make things as simple as possible, it is a trapping of energy.

The plant absorbs water (H2O) to transform it into oxygen

(O2); the liberation of hydrogen (H

2) produces energy. The

light phase thus produces energy – but why?

Darkness Phase (Calv in ’ s Cycle)The darkness phase, as opposed to the light phase, is the part

of photosynthesis that occurs at night. This photosynthesis

step, once simplified, is the reduction of carbon dioxide. At

this moment, the energy produced during the light phase

makes sense: it will allow for the reduction (addition of

hydrogen) of carbon dioxide (CO2) to form glucose, as we

have seen.

Sol i c i ted Organs In plant cells, particularly in leaf cells, are minuscule organs

named chloroplasts. They are the host of photosynthesis.

The light phase of photosynthesis occurs in the grana,

piles of disks called thylakoids. The darkness phase,

in contrast, occurs in the stroma, which corresponds to

the chloroplasts’ internal space.

Another Bril l iant IdeaHow many among us have dreamt of fulfilling every need

without even the need to get up? How many manage it?

This is what plants have achieved after years of evolution.

Photosynthesis, or the transformation of light into energy,

allows the plant kingdom to create its own food from

water and minerals which plants draw with their roots,

from oxygen, carbon dioxide and a minimum of quality

light. If they were able to do such a feat, perhaps they will

one day learn to move and put behind them their

immobile condition!

Phot

os: D

.G. -

Illu

stra

tion

: D.G

.

Simplified cell

Chloroplast Nucleus

Open chloroplast

Thylakoid

Granum


Photos: D.R

.TECHNIqUES

Everybody knows that fine herbs (basil, parsley, chives,

marjoram, coriander, thyme, rosemary, savoury, sage, mint,

oregano, citronella, etc.) can adapt perfectly to hydroponic

cultivation. When the time comes to setup an indoor garden

of edibles, however, the indoor gardener is faced with the

title question. Aside from tomatoes and cucumbers that

are famous for their hydroponic possibilities, other possible

varieties remain somewhat vague. Let us first look at the

advantages, other than that of eating our favourite fruits and

vegetables out of season, of an indoor vegetable garden.

Twenty Minutes From Harvest To PlateI would like to start with a recent personal anecdote. I

harvested two eggplants in my garden. I rinsed them well

under running water and cut them in slices, one-centimetre

thick. I sautéed them for a few minutes in a pan, with a filet

of olive oil. When the slices were golden on both sides, I

served them. Before that day, I did not know the real taste

of eggplant. I had eaten it all my life without savouring the

delicate flavour that few people know, which has led to the

eggplant’s reputation as a bland vegetable. Twenty minutes

from harvest to plate can make a huge difference – for any

fruit or vegetable. While the main gain might be taste, we

also win in terms of intrinsic nutritive value. Twenty minutes

after it is harvested, the vegetable still contains most of its

potential benefits, just as if it was eaten raw as soon as it

was detached from the plant.

Home Hydroponics Equals Food SafetyThe fall of 2006 saw two North American agri-food

disasters. The evil culprits are spinach and carrots. The

unfortunate victims are consumers like you and I. First, in

California, just as the Salinas Valley spinach harvest was

being done, the FDA published a recall order on vacuum-

sealed fresh spinach following the intoxication of over 200

consumers and the death of three people. According to the

inquiry, the bacteria E. coli 0157:H7 was found in consumed

spinach. Knowing the hygiene and safety measures in place

for the harvest and treatment of spinach, how could the

bacteria have present? Perhaps the answer is as simple as

an infiltration through an irrigation system that passed by a

neighbouring cattle pasture.

Counting all productions, the Salinas Valley region has an

annual sales figure of three billion dollars. Spinach alone

brings in 180 million dollars each year. This year, the

estimated loss is already a third of that ($60M). Knowing the

possible impact of such an incident, Salinas Valley farmers

are already seeing their 2006 income vanish: surveys done

soon afterwards among Californian consumers have shown

that they wanted to avoid all of the area’s production,

whether it was spinach or some other produce.

Again from California, but this time having an impact on

Canadian and Floridian consumers, the organic carrot juice

made by Bolt House Farms, President’s Choice (Loblaws) and

Earthbound Farm was responsible for a mini-epidemic of

botulism. To this day, two Toronto residents have remained

paralyzed after ingesting the product, while a third

consumer, this time in Québec, was intoxicated by the same

carrot juice. A fourth case of paralysis in a Florida woman

was also linked to the product. Although these brands’

carrot juice is no longer sold since September 30th, the

mystery remains as to the cause of botulism development in

the juice. According to the manufacturers, the only possible

cause of such poisoning would be a momentary lapse in the

refrigeration process of the product.

Although the origins of both incidents remain unclear, they

offer a good reason to make your own fruits and vegetables

in your own home with the help of a hydroponic system!

Root Vegetables, Bulbs and Climbers: Not for Hydro!Unfortunately, not all vegetables can be adapted to

hydroponics. Those vegetables off of which we eat the

rhizome, the bulb or the roots cannot do without soil to

develop their edible part. In hydroponics, forget about

carrots, potatoes, Jerusalem artichoke, parsnip, radishes,

onions, shallots, salsify, rutabagas, turnips, peanuts,

beets, yams, celeriac, ginger, etc. Their growth in soil-

less hydroponics would only give us rachitic tubers – and

then only if the vegetables managed to survive in such an

environment.

For their part, vegetables that require a mesh or a stake could

prosper in hydroponics, but they are not recommended

Which Fruits and Vegetables for my Hydroponic System? By B.B.

Phot

os: D

.R.

TECHNIqUES

for the indoor gardener. The garden space is often small,

and we do not always have the ceiling height required

for climbing tomatoes, Lima beans or corn! In the same

fashion, crawling vegetables such as the bottle gourd,

gherkins, pumpkins, watermelons and all cucurbits, would

invade your garden space and your hydroponic installation

could break under their weight and chaotic extension.

Since nothing is impossible, however, some horticulturists

persevere, and you can find advice online on how to cultivate

climbing or crawling vegetables in small spaces. See, for

example the Developing Countries Farm Radio Network’s

site (www.farmradio.org); it offers advice in French (www.

farmradio.org/francais/radio-scripts/39-1script_fr.asp) and

in English (www.farmradio.org/english/radio-scripts/39-

1script_en.asp) on how to adapt the cultivation of the most

improbable vegetables to the smallest indoor spaces.

You must also know that some plants only produce

vegetables after one or more of their ovules are fertilized.

Unless you are a professional, it can be difficult for a novice

gardener to be successful while attempting to manually

fertilize the plants. The technique is delicate and requires

much patience. You must prevent pollinating insects from

entering the garden and protect the stamens (by wrapping

the closed flower in gauze, for example) to prevent pollen

from being dispersed. Then, early in the morning, when the

flowers have opened, you must transfer the pollen, by hand,

from the stamens to the pistil. It’s a wager. If you do not

feel up to the task, forget about tomatoes, beans, eggplant,

okra, Jalapeño peppers and bell peppers: their pollination

must be kept in check!

Unavoidable: Leafy VegetablesIf all of this has discouraged you, do not give up hope. You

can still grow your own leafy greens, whose cultivation

method resembles that of fine herbs. Hence you can practice

your green thumb on lettuce, purslane, watercress, beets,

spinach, chicory, sorrel, aragula, Chinese mustard, artichoke,

etc. For these, as for fine herbs, you must seed the plants in

synthetic moss cubes (“Oasis” style) or in rock wool cubes.

Germination can be done in a propagation dome, like the

18 cm Altitude Dome by Optimum Hydroponix, that will

give enough space for the seedlings to grow to a reasonable

size before your transplant them. The onset will require 16

hours of light each day, directly above the dome (start at a

distance of 15 centimetres) with an irrigation pump linked

to a timer set to water the dome for one quarter of an hour

every six hours (four times a day).

TECHNIqUES

Once the seedlings have been transplanted, it is important to

make sure that the nutrients added to the nutritive solution

do not contain too much nitrogen. The nutrients used can

cause an accumulation of nitrates in the leaves, which at the

time of consumption will appear as a bitter or even acrid

flavour. Ideally, the seedlings will have been planted in rock

wool. This substrate minimizes the required care and the

frequency of waterings. Roots are better supported than,

for example, in expanded clay pellets and, most importantly,

since the cubes are independent from one another, you can

cultivate many different leafy greens in the same hydroponic

system. Plants that have a tendency to spread will prosper

in rock wool as well, since their growth will meet fewer

restrictions than in other substrates.

Producing to Consume Is More Delicate Than Producing for BeautyBefore you begin your own production of indoor vegetables,

be aware that this will require more perseverance than

simple indoor plants. We are not trying to attain aesthetically

pleasing forms, but a fruit or vegetable that has all the

qualities you cannot find in grocery stores. This means a

strict adherence to lighting, ventilation, nutrient choices,

care frequency, etc. We can be less precise and regular with

a house plant than with vegetables we plan on consuming.

First, adapted lighting is essential – commercial neon tubes

Photos: D.R

. & Josh M

orellTECHNIqUES

Lettuce Bean Cucumber Tomato Eggplant Spinach Watercress Bell pepper Soy Corn

Light 16 to 18 hours / day 12-14 h / day 12 h / day

Substrate RW RW/CP RW/CP RW/CP RW/CP RW RW RW/CP RW RW

Wa

teri

ng

Rock wool minimum once or twice per day, maximum four times 1/4h per day

Clay pellets minimum every two hours, maximum a few minutes every hour

pH 5.5-6 5.5-6 6-7 5.8-6.3 5.8-6.8 6.4-6.8 7 5.8-6.1 5.5+6.2 6.1-6.5

EC 1.5-2 mS 1-1.5 mS 2.5-3 mS 3-4 mS <2 mS <3.7 mS 0.4-0.7 mS 1-1.3 mS 1.5-1.7 mS 1.7-2 mS

Tem

pe

ratu

re

Average 18/20ºC 18/24ºC 20/25ºC 18/25ºC 20/25ºC 15/25ºC 18/20ºC 20/25ºC 20/30ºC 20/30ºC

Maximum 25ºC 29ºC 30ºC 30ºC 30ºC 25ºC 25ºC 30ºC 32ºC 36ºC

Humidity 40-60% 50-70% 30-50% 50-70% 42-55%

Nu

trie

nts Growth NPK Balanced

Flowering Balanced + P & K + P & K + P & K + P & K Balanced Balanced + P & K + P & K + P, Mg & Zn

Nutritive

SupplementsConsult with your local hydroponics store

Multiplication Seedlings

Complete

cycle duration 45-90 days 50-70 days 50-70 days 50-80 days 60-80 days 50-70 days 45-90 days 60-110 days 50 days 50-70 days

Abbreviations:

RW: rock wool CP: expanded clay pellets EC: electro-conductivity mS: milliSiemens/cm N: nitrogen P: phosphorous K: potassium Mg: magnesium Zn: zinc

General and Specific Characteristics of 10 Vegetables Adapted to Hydroponics

Phot

os: D

.R. &

Josh

Mor

ell

TECHNIqUES

will not do. For growth, you will need to use a metal halide

(MH) bulb with white or cool light, between 400 and 1,000

watts, depending on the size of your garden. For flowering

and fructification, you will need at least one high pressure

sodium (HPS) bulb, giving off a more orange light. If a

tomato or an eggplant lacks light, yield will be affected.

The same goes for nutrition. Nutritive deficiencies have little

visible impact on a house plant compared to a vegetable.

Your nutrients will need to be concentrated and adapted

to this or that vegetable variety. General nutrients must be

avoided at all cost. We recommend establishing a nutritive

table, with the help of the horticulturist working at your

local hydroponics store, according to your crops.

Lettuce Bean Cucumber Tomato Eggplant Spinach Watercress Bell pepper Soy Corn

Light 16 to 18 hours / day 12-14 h / day 12 h / day

Substrate RW RW/CP RW/CP RW/CP RW/CP RW RW RW/CP RW RW

Wa

teri

ng

Rock wool minimum once or twice per day, maximum four times 1/4h per day

Clay pellets minimum every two hours, maximum a few minutes every hour

pH 5.5-6 5.5-6 6-7 5.8-6.3 5.8-6.8 6.4-6.8 7 5.8-6.1 5.5+6.2 6.1-6.5

EC 1.5-2 mS 1-1.5 mS 2.5-3 mS 3-4 mS <2 mS <3.7 mS 0.4-0.7 mS 1-1.3 mS 1.5-1.7 mS 1.7-2 mS

Tem

pe

ratu

re

Average 18/20ºC 18/24ºC 20/25ºC 18/25ºC 20/25ºC 15/25ºC 18/20ºC 20/25ºC 20/30ºC 20/30ºC

Maximum 25ºC 29ºC 30ºC 30ºC 30ºC 25ºC 25ºC 30ºC 32ºC 36ºC

Humidity 40-60% 50-70% 30-50% 50-70% 42-55%

Nu

trie

nts Growth NPK Balanced

Flowering Balanced + P & K + P & K + P & K + P & K Balanced Balanced + P & K + P & K + P, Mg & Zn

Nutritive

SupplementsConsult with your local hydroponics store

Multiplication Seedlings

Complete

cycle duration 45-90 days 50-70 days 50-70 days 50-80 days 60-80 days 50-70 days 45-90 days 60-110 days 50 days 50-70 days

Abbreviations:

RW: rock wool CP: expanded clay pellets EC: electro-conductivity mS: milliSiemens/cm N: nitrogen P: phosphorous K: potassium Mg: magnesium Zn: zinc

General and Specific Characteristics of 10 Vegetables Adapted to Hydroponics

TECHNIqUES


Photos: Bruno Bredoux & CityPlantes

TECHNIqUES

How To Get Healthy Plants – Anyone Can Have a Green Thumb!An ever-growing number of city dwellers enjoy having nice

plants in their apartment or on their balconies. We can easily

buy potted plants of all sizes and origins anywhere for a

decent price. Unfortunately, once they are in place, many of

those plants live, depending on their owner (and not every

body has a green thumb), for a few weeks or a few months

before losing their foliage and drying up.

When plants deteriorate, we ask ourselves a few questions:

* Too many or too few waterings?

* Must we use nutrients?

* Was it the temperature?

* Is there not enough humidity for the plants?

We then buy specialized reference books, evolutive

containers with a water reserve, potting soil, nutrients. We

repot the plant, we fatten it up, we spray it… and most

often, even with all these efforts, we get little results. In

fact, many abandon all hope after many failed attempts.

Plant Comfort in Hydroponics There is a lot of information out there regarding the

cultivation of indoor plants. Precise advice is given for each

plant. For the hobbyist, this can make things complicated

and implies a learning curve.

With soil-less cultivation, everything is different! We no

longer need ask questions such as “when must I water”.

Most plants grow well together without requiring any

“personalized” care. Give them as much light as possible

(without cooking them in direct sunlight behind glass in a

non-ventilated room!) and renewed air, and your hydroponic

garden will take care of the rest!

Producers of indoor plants, flowers and vegetables cannot

allow production risks to jeopardize their business, and they

put in place the latest technologies supported by scientific

research. The cultivation systems they use are free from soil

and plants are grown in inert material: either substrates or

naked roots dipped in water and nutrients. These soil-less

cultivation techniques are called hydroponics. They give

producers more regular and better results while limiting the

required manipulations.

These techniques have long existed, and many of our indoor

plants, as well as the greater part of the tomatoes, cucumbers

and lettuces we eat have been grown using them.

Water and HydroponicsTap water is usable and problem-free for hydroponic

systems. Its characteristics vary depending on the region.

The parameters that a hydroponic gardener looks at are

its pH and its purity (more or less dissolved solids). The

characteristics of tap water vary from one community to the

next, so we suggest that you get this information from your

local public service. Nevertheless, in most western countries,

the water’s pH is usually alkaline (most often around 8 in

cities) and the EC (to measure purity) is around 0.5.

Tap water’s pH is usually too high for the plants’ optimal

nutrition, and we recommend correcting it. Use a pH

correcting agent and control the results with a liquid or

electronic pH-meter.

Water purity determines the quantity of nutrients that can

be added to it. The more dissolved solids in the water, the

fewer nutrients you will be able to add. By correcting the pH,

you will also increase the concentration of dissolved solids.

Use an electro-conductivity meter to get control over your

plant’s nutrition and avoid accidents caused by an overdose

of nutrients.

Information sites on water quality:

• Canada: http://www.hc-sc.gc.ca/ewh-semt/water-eau/index_e.html

• USA: http://www.epa.gov/safewater/

Water Pumps for Hydroponic Gardens: Automate Your Watering!One of the advantages of hydroponics is that all watering

tasks can be automated. The gardener must take care of

the water reservoir once a week – not every day. Most

hydroponic systems for hobbyists use water pumps designed

for aquariums.

Hydroponics: Watering and IrrigationBy Pierre Bonnard and Jean-Pierre Daimé (CityPlantes)*

TECHNIqUES

When one is no aquarium expert, water pumps can be an

obscure topic. We never know what to pick or on what criterion

to base our decision. A pump is characterized by its flow in litres

per hour and by the maximum height at which it can lift water.

These values on the packaging can be theoretical, and you

can be surprised by the performance of any pump. The

best pumps for hobbyist hydroponic gardens right now are

submersible aquarium pumps. A model that can output

1,000 litres per hour, with the capacity of lifting water up to

1.4 metres with no significant flow loss will suffice for most

indoor gardeners. It is the high end of those small pumps,

but the price remains reasonable. Do not buy a less powerful

pump, except for a very small system, the size of a tub.

A quality pump will be protected against overheating.

The models offered are designed for this, with the stator

insulated from the water. The rotor, as well as the pumping

mechanism, remains submerged. This technique has proved

its efficiency. It offers safety for the indoor gardener,

because it often happens that a pump will run on empty

when the nutritive solution has left the reservoir. If the pump

is not protected, it will get damaged, while a protected

pump will move air until you get back, with no negative

consequences.

Hoses and ConnectorsFor irrigation, there are four standardized dimensions

(corresponding with the inner diameter of the hoses). You

can also find products that use other diameters, but beware:

those are proprietary formats, which will force you to buy

further supplies from the same manufacturer.

With standard diameters, you will be able to make a

professional watering line adapted to your garden by

yourself in minutes and with no complications. These items

allow you to configure your setup according to your needs.

Format Use Our Advice / Advantages

4 mm (1/4 inch)

Watering capillary for the base of plants.

The capillary is cut diagonally and does not clog up, which prevents the need for maintenance such as is required with drip irrigation. With the wall feed-through seal, we can create a water reserve with any chosen plastic container (bucket, tank). The 4 mm capillary is inserted in the seal and creates a watertight water exit.

13 mm (1/2 inch)

Main watering and injection line for flood table. Exit of the pumps.

Prefer a flexible hose for the connection to the pump, and a straight connector to get to the rigid hose. With the wall feed-through seal, we can create a water reserve with any chosen plastic container (bucket, tank).

19 mm (3/4 inch)

Drainage circuit (water flows back to the reservoir) and flood table overflow. Water hookup for large reservoir.

This format allows one to create a completely watertight drainage circuit. With the wall feed-through seal and the straight connector, we can create a water reserve with any chosen plastic container (bucket, tank).

25 mm (1 inch) Water discharge hose.

The large diameter of these parts and hoses is for professional use (greenhouses).

TECHNIqUESIllustrations: CityPlantesTECHNIqUES

How to use your watering hoses and connectors well.

Tools:

pruning shears and pump pliers.

To unroll the 13 mm rigid black pipe: unroll it in the sun

and use weights to keep it unrolled (a hairdryer can be

used as a heat source).

Use pruning shears to cut hoses.

To connect the hose and connectors, soften the hose by

dipping it in hot water.

Fitting hoses on a connector.

With the 13 mm rigid hose, it is advised to use ring clips to

guarantee watertightness.

To connect a 4 mm capillary, pierce with the special tool

and insert a 4 mm straight connector.

To close an unused 4 mm exit, use a 4 mm cap.

To close a water distribution line, use the terminal 13 mm

cap.

Before inserting the terminal 13 mm cap, turn the water

on to flush out any impurities from the watering line.

Use an elbow connector to prevent the hose from being

squeezed in any curb.

An inline 13 mm filter is recommended to prevent any

obstruction of the watering system by impurities. This

filter can easily be disassembled for cleaning.


Phot

os: J

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Hyd

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)TECHNIqUES

Professional Technology to the Rescue of City Dwellers Who Enjoy Beautiful Plants!Professionals are no longer the only ones who can take

advantage of these techniques! They are now well mastered,

and more and more used by gardeners in the USA, Canada,

Australia, Switzerland, Germany, the Netherlands, Great-

Britain, Spain, etc.

Irrigation and watering product lines available in hydroponic stores

(* Reproduced with their authorization)

To find out more: www.cityplantes.com.

Oxygen Diffusion:• Oxidator;• Solution oxygen test strip;• Oxidator catalyst.

Irrigation system:• Dialyser 190 litres/day;• Irrigation system, 8 exits;• Complete 2 exit module;• Emitter (with screw-on cap);• Male ¾ fitting;• Female ¾ cap;• Female ¾ fitting;• Flexible black hose 4 mm / 1 m;• AIC active carbon cartridge;• AIP sediment cartridge.

Submerged Pumps:• New Jand Pumps 3000, 1700 and

2300;• MaxiJand Pumps 1000 and 500;• Pump MicroJand 450 and 320;• Foam filter for MaxiJand pumps (for 2);• Empty reservoir pump.

Air Pumps:• Air pump 108 litres/hour;• Schego air pump 350 litres/hour;• Blue air stone diffuser 15 cm;• Flexible air diffuser 90 cm;• Silicone hose 4 x 6 mm / 1 m;• Tee connector 4 x 6 mm;• Anti-siphon 4 x 6 mm.

Reservoirs:• 65 litres or 90 litres water storage reservoirs.

Hoses:• Quick-connecting tap adaptor;• 13 mm / 1 m black PVC rigid hose;• 13 mm / 25 m black PVC hose;• 12 x 16 mm / 1 m flexible hose;• 19 x 27 mm / 1 m flexible hose.

Connectors:• Straight adaptor 19 mm / 13 mm;• Caps, 13 mm, pack of 4• Caps, 19 mm, pack of 4;• Caps, 4 mm, pack of 10;• 13 mm ring clips, pack of 10;• Straight connectors, 13 mm, pack of 4;• Straight connectors, 19 mm, pack of 4;• Straight connectors, 4 mm, pack of 10;• T-connectors, 13 mm, pack of 4;• T-connectors, 19 mm, pack of 4;• T-connectors, 4 mm, pack of 4;• Rigid elbows, 13 mm, pack of 4;• Rigid elbows, 19 mm, pack of 4;• Rigid elbows, 4 mm, pack of 4;• Inline filter, 13 mm;• Feed-through seal, 13 mm, pack of 4;• Feed-through seal, 19 mm, pack of 4;• Calibrated perforating tool;• Valves, 13 mm and 4 mm.

Sprinklers:• 1 litre and 1.5 litre sprinklers with pre-pressure;

Watering cans:

• Ergonomic graduated watering can, 3 litres.

phot

os :

© G

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200

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Photos: Gardena, ©

2006

Have Everything You Need In Hand

With Gardena®

phot

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200

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: Gar

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, © 2

006

Gardena®, the famous German, Ulm-based company, is the international leader in the development of intelligent

and easy to use products and in services for home and garden planning, design and maintenance. The company’s

products are available world-wide and range from extremely sophisticated watering systems – such as spray

nozzles, spray guns and outdoor showers – to lighting and animation lines and to garden water solutions. Thanks

to Gardena’s high-tech connectors, you will have water wherever you need it, whether in the house or garden.

The series includes sprinklers, micro-drip systems and rain water catchment systems. Gardena also offers all

imaginable cleaning and care tools, hoses and hose reels, lawnmowers from the most basic to the more complex

with all the instruments required to detail your lawn (border cutter, etc.), cutting tools, compactors, garden tools

(such as the “Combisystem”, which is at once a shovel, a rake, a spade and a hoe). Finally, for water gardens, the

“Aquamotion” series offers fountain systems and water sprays, as well as a very aesthetic lighting line. See www.

gardena.com and [email protected]. Download the “Turbotrimmer” game on the site, it’s fun! – B.B.


Photos: B.B

.GALLERy

Last November, from the 15th to the 17th, was held at the Hôtel

des Seigneurs in Saint-Hyacinthe (Québec), the 22nd annual fair

organized by the Fédération interdisciplinaire de l’horticulture

ornementale du Québec. The event gathered, in the hotel’s

convention centre, nearly 740 exhibitors, all actors of the

Québec (and Canadian) industry through their production of raw material, furnishings,

garden irrigation or lighting. In the luxuriant entrance hall, André, from Cactus Fleuri Inc.

(www.cactusfleuri.com) in Sainte-Madeleine, was distributing his cards, decorated

with a “western” cactus as homage to the famous western festival held annually

in his village’s camping, right besides the A-20 highway. His business has been

producing cacti, succulents and potted flowers since 1976. Then it was time

to turn to Acti-sol (www.acti-sol.ca), a maker of egg-producing hen manure-

based fertilizer (we live in a complex world!) that offered invitation cards

that came with a pouch of green tea, to be savoured while “relaxing while

The Mother Hen Fertilizer takes care of your plants.” I must admit – I did

not drink the tea. You never know, it could have been a compost tea made

with egg-producing hen manure! There could have been a terrible labelling

mistake! Moving forward towards the stands, I saw that Ball Superior

(www.ballseed.com) was unveiling the new colours of its Impatiens hawkeri,

or New Guinea Snapweed, ‘Divine Lavender’ and ‘Divine Scarlet’.

2006 FIHOQ Fair

A sea of coleus…

Hibiscus Rosa sinensis flower

GALLERy

The Cactus Fleuri’s business card

The (last) false Jerusalem

cherry (Solanum capsicastrum)…

The classic spathiphyllum

Soft pink hardy begonia or Begonia grandis ssp. Evansiana


GALLERy

After a visit to the hotel’s superb indoor garden, with its exotic

compositions surrounding the pool, I found in the hall leading to the

fair a young hostess from Cactus Fleuri who wanted to sell her last

False Jerusalem Cherry (Solanum pseudocapsicum), with two other

plants. Not expensive: 15 dollars! (www.cactusfleuri.qc.ca/Solanum_

pseudocapsicum.htm). Further, the Promenade room hosted floral

production, lighting and irrigation. I chatted for a while with Gaétan

Doré, from Floridus Design Images (www.floridus.com), who is a

specialist in garden décor and in artificial flower arrangements. His

entire 2007 décor line was highlighted. The Palais room hosted heavy

machinery and cement block makers such as Rinox (1 866 99-RINOX)

and Unilock (1 800 UNILOCK or www.unilock.com). In the Foyer room,

Pro-Mix (www.premierhort.com) and Myke (www.usemyke.com),

subsidiaries of Premier Tech Biotechnologies, managed the first stand

opening on the atrium reserved for chemical and bio nutrients, inert

materials and greenhouse equipment manufacturers. Finally, in the Gala

room, we could discover novelties in plants, bulbs and seeds that will

soon be offered under Fernand Corbeil Produits Horticoles’ orange and

green labels (www.serrescorbeil.com). Outside, light and temperature

were lowering, and already the Pépinière Abbotsford was packing its

shrubs and roses, including ‘Rosa Abbotsford’, its own star cultivar

(www.pepiniereabbotsford.com). Finally, the 2007 Buyer’s Guide

(Guide annuel de l’acheteur 2007, Québec Vert and Transcontinental,

Eds)), a $25 value, was offered to each visitor. The book is a veritable

bible of Québec horticulture.

– B.B.

IMPORTANT: Photographs were not allowed within the fair, so the pictures

found here are those that manufacturers allowed us to take, as well as

shots of the magnificent indoor garden at Hôtel des Seigneurs.

2006 FIHOQ Fair

A palm… under the roof

Exhibitors’ entrance

GALLERy

Leaf of Philodendron Selloum (Philodendron bipinnatifidum) seen from underneath

Floridus Design

Images’ better than life-like

artificial plants

Floridus Design Images’ better than

life-like artificial plants

Pépinière Abbotsford Shrubs


Photos: Daniel Fortin

BOTANICAL DICTIONARy

Cordyline australisOriginating from the

extreme south of New

Zealand, Cordyline australis,

also known as Draceana

australis, has slightly arched,

elongated narrow leaves.

Young plantlets are sold as

indoor plants, because this

plant, much like Draceanas,

can reach respectable heights, over three metres high,

thanks to its powerful stem. Two cultivars present colourful

leaves that make them more interesting than the botanical

species: ‘Purpurea’, with its bronzed purplish foliage, and

‘Albertii’, which is less vigorous (and therefore better as

an indoor choice), with its pale yellow striated leaves and

pinkish new shoots. During the summer, it grows well

outdoors, where its singular

look makes it the star of any

flower bed.

Cordyline indivisaCordyline indivisa is an even

more vigorous species than

C. australis and, as such,

it is less suited to indoor

cultivation. In its natural

habitat, the plant can reach

well over four metres in height. Like Draceana, its stem is

stripped and only has a large tuft of leaves at its top. The

0.9 to 1.2 metre-long and 7 to 10 centimetres-wide leaves

take up a large amount of space in an apartment. The plant

grows in a mellow, rich and fresh soil. It prefers a sunny spot

with no direct sunlight.

Cordyline terminalisThe Hawaiian ti-plant or good-luck plant, as the Cordyline

terminalis (also known under the scientific name Cordyline

fruticosa) is often called, is the cordyline species that is the

most popular and easiest to find at a gardening centre. It is

widespread in the entire Pacific region. It was cultivated by

the Melanesians and the Polynesians, who ate the rhizomes

for their starch content, especially in times of food shortage,

and used the leaves to make clothes. Although indoors

we maintain this beautiful ornamental within adapted

proportions (around one metre high), in its natural habitat,

it can reach over 3.5 metres. Its thin lanceolate leaves are

about 50 centimetres long and 15 centimetres wide, green

with pink markings

for the botanical

species and clearly

more colourful for the

cultivars offered on

the market. Although

the cultivars are not

always identified as

such, the species

has many cultivars:

‘Amabilis’, an old,

relatively uninteresting cultivar with dark green shiny leaves

with barely a few white and pink spots, ‘Atom’, which bears

orange pink leaves, ‘Baptisii’, with bronzed green limbs

spotted in white and pink, ‘Imperialis’, with dark green

leaves striated in pink and crimson, ‘Kiwi’, with large leaved

Cordylines (Genus Cordyline) By Daniel Fortin

The Cordyline genus includes about fifteen species of shrubs native of the tropical or subtropical regions, three

of which are grown as indoor plants in our latitudes: Cordyline australis, C. indivisa and C. terminalis. The first two

resemble Draceana, while the last and best-known species has very colourful leaves.

variegated in yellow and green and bordered with red, ‘Red

Edge’, with smaller green leaves bordered in red, ‘Tricolor’, an

old cultivar, with limbs marked with long red, pink and green

bands.

The foliage is particularly impressive at the time of purchase,

but indoor cultivation poses a number of challenges of which

the buyer must be aware. The Ti-plant requires a very luminous

spot but no direct sunlight to maintain its foliage colouration. It

grows in a mellow, rich in organic matter, well-drained soil. Its

ideal growth temperature is between 18 and 24º C. Its most vital

need is a good level of ambient humidity, above 50%, which

is hard to maintain in a heated dwelling. If the humidity level

is insufficient, the end and border of the leaves’ limb will dry

out and the plant will slowly waste away. Unless you can place

a humidifier nearby or lower the temperature to around 16º C

from November to mid-March, your specimen runs the risk of

offering a sorry spectacle. The plant’s foliage has an intrinsic

beauty, however, which is sufficient to warrant an attempt.

You can take cuttings or use layering easily. To take cuttings of

the superior stems, place them in a rooting medium made up of

soil and vermiculite (or perlite) covered with translucent plastic.

To obtain plantlets, cut 6 to 8 centimetre stem portions along

their length, lay them on a rooting medium and cover them

with a translucent plastic to maintain the humidity level.


It was difficult to make a choice and to discuss this topic in ten points. In fact, looking only at the Canadian Collection of Fungal Cultures (CCFC), one could find 11,000 authenticated strains of fungal culture, representing about 2,500 species. Here is a brief overview of the most common.

A) Downy MilDew / PowDery MilDew

White and powdery mould which attacks leaves.

Treatment: eliminate all affected leaves.

As in all cases of foliage rot, avoid spraying the leaves if you are at risk. Keep the garden’s humidity between 30 and 40%. Foliar application of benomyl or sulphur (apply sulphur only if the temperature allows it, between 20 and 25 degrees).

B) Botrytis / Grey MoulD

Grey mould which attacks leaves.

Treatment: same as against mildew.

�0THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE �

pLANT HEALTH

We have already discussed the fungal diseases and the

root diseases in a previous issue of The Indoor Gardener

(Vol. 1 – Issue 3, pages 52 to 58). We present below, in

complement of the articles published on the control of

insects in the previous issue of TIG, the products more

particularly used as fungicides, molluscicides, acaricides,

algaecides, etc.

According to recent studies, Arabidopsis mutante is a naturally fungus resistant plant.

1 – Natural Fungicides for Disease

Control

a) Liquid Lime Sulphur: Insecticide and

Fungicide

Lime sulphur is a well-known eradicator of overwintering

pests and disease spores. Using lime sulphur on deciduous

trees and shrubs during winter, prior to budburst, greatly

lowers the risk of disease and pests the following summer.

An excellent winter spray schedule for home gardens is

to alternate applications of lime sulphur, copper and

spraying oil (neem oil for example), each week during

each month over winter.

Precautions: lime sulphur is alkaline and moderately toxic.

Do not mix with any other spray or fertilizer product. Do

not apply to plants during active growth, or leaf drop and

plant damage may occur. Product stains on contact.

Warning: lime sulphur is damaging to the eyes, irritates the

skin, and can cause serious internal damage if swallowed.

Wear eye and skin protection during application. Not to

be taken internally. Keep out of the reach of children.

(Source: Suntec NZ Ltd)

Safer Brand Garden Fungicide

Safer Brand Garden Fungicide can be used on

fruits, flowers, vegetables, flowering plants

and ornamentals. It controls and prevents

black spot, rust, leaf spot and powdery

mildew on roses. This product is natural

and contains sulphur (see above). It is

available in 32 oz. containers.

b) Liquid Copper

Manufactured by Suntec NZ Ltd in New Zealand, liquid

copper contains copper hydroxide as a suspension

concentrate. Gardeners worldwide recognize the superior

characteristics of copper hydroxide. Because of its very

fine particle size, it allows better coverage of the active

ingredient compared to other copper products, such as

Bordeaux and copper oxychloride. This means the spray

is more cost-effective and likely to give better control for

longer periods. Suntec’s copper hydroxide is best used

in conjunction with a spreader/sticker. The product will

control a wide array of fungal and bacterial diseases on

many garden plants.

Precautions: liquid copper should not be mixed with any

other spray or fertilizer product.

Warning: liquid copper is damaging to the eyes and can

cause serious internal damage if swallowed. Keep out of

the reach of children. (Source: Suntec NZ Ltd)

c) Defender Garden

Fungicide

Defender is a natural garden

fungicide. It may be used at the

FUNGUS CONTROL—Part 1Fungicides, Molluscicides, Acaricides, Algaecides

and Other Gardener’s Little HelpersBy V.G., W.S., B.B. and P.H.

A Brief tour of the MAin funGAl DiseAses

By P.h. & B.B.

Photo: D.R

., Remedy, Safer &

Defender

C) PythiuM AnD rhizoCtoniA

They attack roots. Your plant rapidly wilts, and seems parched even when it has water; the roots are brown and viscous and they separate easily.

Treatment: there is no remedy against pythium and rhizoctonia, other than prevention by keeping the plants healthy. In the case of a root fungus disease, it is better to throw the plant away than to risk contaminating all others, if it hasn’t yet happened. Damages occur quickly and show no mercy. Then you must clean, clean, clean everything well before the next crop.

D) fusAriuM

Fusarium is a deuteromycete fungus and exists in two forms, anamorph (asexual form) and teleomorph (sexual form). The most common is fusarium monoliforme. According to the phytoprotection diagnostic laboratory studies performed by Québec’s Ministry of agriculture (MAPAQ), the anamorph form of these phytopathogenic fungi is more common on plant tissue. It provokes scattered necrosis at the root level, which soon leads to generalized root rot. Signs of an advanced infestation include yellowing leaves and wilt. This fungus is the only one to colonize the roots’ vascular system and, in its fusarium oxysporum asparagi form, it causes asparagus dry rot. The disease is usually transmitted through pre-infested plants or soil, but high temperatures and too high a humidity rate also encourage fusarium infestations.

Treatment: by classic fungicides or with an organic and mineral amendment which, at a rate of 1% per soil weight, allows one to efficiently control many fusarium species. This mixture, the S-H mix, was developed by Taiwanese researchers (Sun and Huang, 1985).

�1VOLUME 2 – ISSUE � THE INDOOR GARDENER

Phot

os: D

.R.,

Rem

edy

& B

onid

epLANT HEALTH

first sign of mould on your plants. It comes in two

different solutions: concentrated, which you have

to dilute before use, or ready to use. Defender is

excellent for powdery mildew, black spot and rust.

It actually defends plants by covering them with a

protective coating of liquid sulphur.

Defender “Ready to Use” is also available in a

spray bottle. Not concentrated.

d) Remedy Fungicide (Bicarbonate)

Remedy Fungicide is a powder concentrate. It is a

reduced-risk pesticide. This food-grade bicarbonate

provides outstanding control of powdery mildew,

leaf spot, anthracnose, phoma, phytopthora,

scab, botrytis and other foliar diseases on

woody and herbaceous ornamental plants.

2 – Chemical Fungicides for

Disease Control

a) Carbaryl: Molluscicide, Acaricide

and Insecticide

Carbaryl is a general-use pesticide (GUP) from the

chemical class of carbamate. Carbaryl is a wide-spectrum

carbamate insecticide which controls over 100 species

of insects on citrus, fruit, cotton, forests, lawns, nuts,

ornamentals, shade trees and other crops, as well

as on poultry, livestock, and pets. It is also used as a

molluscicide and an acaricide. Carbaryl works whether

it is ingested into the stomach of the pest or absorbed

through direct contact.

Its formulation is available as bait, dust, wettable powder,

granules, dispersions and suspensions. However, various

formulations vary widely in toxicity. For example, it is

categorized as: toxicity class I (highly toxic) for Tercyl;

toxicity class II (moderately toxic) for Sevin 803, and

toxicity class III (slightly toxic) for some other products.

Products containing carbaryl may bear the words danger,

poison, warning or caution, depending on product

formulation.

Other trade names include: Adios, Bugmaster, Carbamec,

Carbamine, Crunch, Denapon, Dicarbam, Hexavin,

Karbaspray, Nac, Rayvon, Septene, Sevin, Tercyl, Torndao,

Thinsec, Tricarnam, and Union Carbide 7744.

b) Bayleton

Bayleton is a garden fungicide from the chemical group

of Triazole. Its active ingredient is 50g/kg of triadimefon.

The main formulation type available on the market

is a wettable powder, sold in packs of 150 grams. It

is a systemic fungicide with protective, curative and

eradicant action. The product is absorbed by the roots

and leaves, with ready translocation in young growing

tissue. Its market segment is for home and garden, but

this wettable powder fungicide is mainly known to

control azalea petal blight, powdery mildew and dollar

spot of lawns.

Fungonil Multi-Purpose Fungicide

from Bonide

Fungonil has a systemic action that prevents

and cures lawn diseases, including

dollar spot, copper spot, brown patch,

anthracnose, stripe smut and blights. It

also controls diseases on roses, flowers,

and vegetables. It contains Bayleton (see

above). It is available in concentrated

solution (32 oz. RTU) or in a Fungonil

“Ready to Spray” container (2.5 lbs), which

is the most user-friendly on the market: no measuring,

no mixing, no mess! It’s the simplest solution for disease-

free roses and flowers, trees and shrubs, vegetable

gardens. The product is odourless, water-based 0.087%

chlorothalonil, and controls virtually all major garden

disease problems.

c) Dichlone

Dichlone is used as a fungicide for foliage and as an

algaecide. It is also recommended against predatory

mites from the phytoseiid family (like Amblyseius) and

against predatory bugs like mirids. Its appearance is

a yellow crystalline wettable powder. Dichlone is sold

under the trade name Phygon®.

Warning: Dichlone is not authorized in certain countries

(like France) and you must check its status in your country

with your local agricultural registration office before

ordering or using it.

d) Dodine

Dodine is a fungicide and bactericide used to control scab

on apples, pears, and pecans, brown rot on peaches, and

several foliar diseases of cherries, strawberries, peaches,

sycamore trees and black walnuts. It is also used as an

industrial biocide and preservative. The compound works

by changing the cell walls of the fungus, causing the loss

of materials within the cell. It is available as a soluble

concentrate or a wettable powder. The main manufacturer

of Dodine products is Rhône-Poulenc Ag. Co.

e) Spectracide Immunox Fungicide

Spectracide Immunox fungicide is a multi-purpose

fungicide formulated to provide a systemic protection

against lawn and ornamental plant diseases. This product

e) AnthrACnose

The fungi responsible, Colletotrichum orbiculare, is found quite frequently in too humid greenhouses and during rainy seasons. It is mostly found on cucumber, watermelon and muskmelon crops. It, however, spares squash and pumpkins. Anthracnose is one of the diseases that is frequently fatal to cucumber.

Treatment: in a greenhouse, aspersion irrigation must be drastically decreased, and care taken for the spores not to be transmitted to nearby plants through water splashing. Make sure the greenhouse is well ventilated. If the problem remains, use fungicides (ask the horticulturist at your local hydroponics store for advice on the treatment of this specific fungus).

f) rhynChosPoriuM (RhynchospoRium secalis)

The symptoms of R. secalis first appear on the leaves’ limb or leaf blade (in particular on barley crops) but can also be localised on the stems and the spikes. R. secalis also sometimes forms a dormant mycelium in the residue of infected crops. If that happens, it is very likely that the new growth will be the onset of Rhynchosporium. It is also theoretically possible to see an infection by infected seeds, but in practice it should only have a limited impact.

Treatment: trifloxystrobine, the new fungicide molecule by Bayer Agro, is particularly active against septoria leaf blotch on wheat or Rhynchosporium on barley. For better results, associate it with a triazole.

Photos: D.R

., Sluggo & B

.B.

pLANT HEALTH

is effective, versatile, reliable, and easy to

apply. It allows you to treat small plants or

large areas quickly and efficiently. It can be

used on lawns, flowers, ornamental shrubs

and trees, fruit trees and vines. It prevents

and stops fungus growth on roses, flowers,

trees and lawns.

Warning: the product cannot be washed off by rain. It

causes moderate eye irritation. In case of eye contact,

flush eyes for with plenty of water and call a physician

if irritation persists. The manufacturer’s material safety

data sheet (MSDS) provides no information about chronic

health effects resulting from prolonged or frequent use

of this product.

Carcinogenicity: the ingredients in this product are not

identified as carcinogens or potential carcinogens.

Handling and Disposal: do not puncture or incinerate

containers. Give empty, leaking or full containers to a

facility qualified to dispose of pressurized containers.

The active ingredients in this pesticide/fungicide are the

following chemicals: 2-butoxyethanol, permethrin and

myclobutanil.

f) Benomyl Systemic Fungicide

Wettable Powder

This product is now discontinued by the manufacturer

(United industries Corp., P.O. box 142 642, St-Louis, MO)

and has been cancelled by the US Product Registration,

but it was such a success since the beginning of the

20th century that a lot of historical information about

it is still available. For a historical overview of its action,

you can check the website of French Centre National

de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS) at http://cat.inist.

fr/?aModele=afficheN&cpsidt=5384102 (in English).

3 – Molluscicides

a) Sluggo® Slug and Snail Bait

Sluggo® kills slugs and snails, yet can

safely be used around pets and

wildlife. It contains iron phosphate,

which occurs naturally in soil. In

fact, this slug bait is a unique blend

of an iron phosphate active ingredient,

originating from soil, with slug and snail bait additives.

It is also used as an ingredient

in fertilizers. The bait which is

not ingested by snails and slugs

will degrade and become a part

of the soil. Sluggo® remains

effective after rain.

b) Draza®

Control of slugs is essential to ensure good crop

establishment in the autumn and Draza® slug pellets

can play a crucial role in reducing slug populations to

manageable levels.

c) Non-oxidizing Molluscicides

Two major types of chloride-ion-containing QACs are

used commercially in the non-oxidizing molluscicides

Clam-Trol CT-1™ and MacroTrol™ 9210. QACs are

cationic surfactants, and it is their surface-binding activity

that produces antifouling biocidal effects. Where QACs

are released directly into a receiving system, they may

require detoxification by adsorption onto bentonite clay

or other agents, but are not harmful to aquatic organisms

once they are bound to anionic substances.

d) Oxidizing Molluscicides

Most oxidizing molluscicides are used against zebra

mussel and veliger larvae settlements. They regroup

chlorine, chlorination, chlorine dioxide, chloramine,

ozone and cyanuric acid. Chlorination is efficient

against adults (0.5 ppm for 7 days will kill 75% of the

population; 0.3 ppm for 14 to 21 days will kill more than

95% of adults). Chlorination at 2 ppm in a continuous

flow-through will kill 90% of adults. Chlorine dioxide

(0.5 ppm for 24 hours) and chloramine (1.2 ppm for 24

hours) will kill 100% of veliger larvae populations. Ozone

continuously applied at a ratio of 1.5 ppm will prevent all

kinds of settlements. Cyanuric acid at 2,000 ppm for 17

days will give a result of only 50% killed.

0.5 ppm/24 hours of chlorine dioxide (or 1.2 ppm/24h of chloramine) will kill 100% of veliger larvae populations.

Moderation is always preferable!

�2THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE �

G) soft rot or Pithiness

Erwinia carotovora ssp. carotovora is the most common bacteria that cause post-harvest fruit or vegetable soft rot. The most sensitive subjects are fruits and vegetables that were too ripe at the time of harvest, that were damaged during harvest or that were not well cleaned and dried before they were packed. Soft rot, in fact, develops very rapidly as soon as condensation appears inside the retractable packaging of fruits and vegetables that have not been dried properly. Bacterial pithiness also often occurs because of the presence of other kinds of rot, such as black rot, botrytis or penicillium fruit rot.

Treatment: as much as possible, avoid mechanical lesions during harvest. Cool fruits and vegetables gradually in a dry atmosphere before packaging, to avoid any condensation.

h) BlACk root rot

Well hidden in the soil where it lives, the Phomopsis sclerotioides fungus is black root rot’s agent. The fungus can be observed with a magnifying glass, because it remains in the thick root tissues of plants with its small black sclerotia.

Treatment: some fungicides can temporarily delay the attack of Phomopsis sclerotioides, but the only long term solution offered is to sterilize the soil.

�3VOLUME 2 – ISSUE � THE INDOOR GARDENER

Phot

os: D

.R.,

Gre

en C

lean

, Agr

i 2 &

Wat

er W

areh

ouse

pLANT HEALTH

4 – Acaricides

a) Amitraz

Amitraz is a triazapentadiene compound, a member of

the amidine chemical family. It is registered for use on

pears, cattle, hogs and cotton. Its use is not permitted on

apples to prevent its residues in processed apples or meat-

producing animals that consume apple processing waste.

It an acaricide used to control red spider mites, leaf miners,

scale insects and aphids. On cotton, it is used to control

bollworms, white fly and leaf worms. On animals, it is

used to control ticks, mites, lice and other animal pests.

Mitaban® and Preventic® are brand names for Amitraz.

b) Dicofol

Dicofol is a organochlorine acaricide (a chemical that kills

mites) that is structurally similar to DDT. It is highly toxic

to aquatic life and can cause egg-shell thinning in some

bird species.

c) Propagite

Propagite (as well as Amitraz, Diazinon and Dimethoate)

can be used effectively for mite control. However, its use

is regulated in some states (check your local regulation).

d) Tetradifon

Tetradifon is a white crystalline solid used in formulation

as an acaricide in agriculture and horticulture. This

acaricide is widely used on citrus. It is interesting to

note that the main producer of Tetradifon is a German

manufacturer that is selling it under the brand name

Tidion®. This product was banned in India, among

other countries, in 1992. Once again, check your local

agricultural regulations.

5 – Algaecides

a) Super Algaecide Plus (Water

Warehouse)

This concentrated product treats up to 160,000

gallons! It is a super strong algaecide that even

kills persistent yellow mustard algae. Its powerful

formula of chelated copper prevents all common

algae growth: stubborn green, mustard, and

black algae. It will not foam or cloud water. Super

Algaecide Plus from Water Warehouse contains

7% chelated copper. The recommended dosage

is 2 oz. per 10,000 gallons of water.

b) Clear Choice Ultimate Algaecide

2 in 1 Formula

This revolutionary double-action formula is a great

problem-solver for algae problems. Not only will it kill

and prevent algae re-infestation, but it also completes

the job by clearing the algae from the water for sparkling

clear results. Its non-metallic, non-foaming formula will

not stain surfaces or discolour hair (if you use it in your

swimming-pool). The recommended dosage is 4.8 oz.

per 10,000 gallons of water.

c) BioSafe GreenClean Granular

Algaecide

Unlike other aquatic

algaecides on the market

today, GreenClean works

on contact to eliminate

algae in water gardens,

ornamental ponds,

and fountains without

harming fish or aquatic

life. This product is only

available at 123 Ponds

(http://store.123ponds.

com). To order:

1 954 977-6345.

6 – Showering Your Plants

Regularly

Plants like to be showered with water, but they like to

be misted with mild nutrient solutions even better. Pump

up sprayers give out a fine spray without tiring the hand.

Outdoors, the rain washes away built-up mineral

elements from the leaf tissue, so make it rain inside for

your plants. Use different bottles for different solutions

– do not use the same bottle for all products to be misted

onto plants. Most of the pressure sprayers on the market

are cheap yet well constructed.

Warning: do not use a plastic pressure sprayer for neem

oil until you can really successfully dilute the neem oil in

tepid water.

a) Agri 2, Concentrated Multipurpose

Wetting Agent

Agri 2 contains a blend

of biodegradable, non-

ionic surfactants and an

emulsified silicone type

anti-foam preparation.

Agri 2 was designed primarily for use with agricultural

i) rust funGus

Rust fungus is a foliar disease that is often found in peanut crop regions. It is caused by Puccinia arachidis, one of 16 phytopathogenic fungi that attack peanut crops. This foliar disease is often associated to another, cercospora leaf spot. Both are unfortunately often endemic in tropical climates.

In temperate areas, rust takes many other forms, and many fungi cause it (for example, Cronartium ribicola causes white pine blister rust, etc.).

According to some gardeners, in the north (zone 6 and under), rust does not survive!

Treatment: no need to heavily powder the affected leaves with a fungicide. The best solution is the good old fashioned one: cut off all diseased leaves with pruning shears or clean scissors to avoid contaminating healthy plants. Do not forget to destroy all infected leaves by throwing them in the garbage and never compost rust-infected leaves or plants.

J) Boil sMut

Ustilago maydis is the pathogenic fungus responsible for corn boil smut. Its cousin, Ustilago zeae, attacks corn and téosinte, a wild Mexican plant believed to be the ancestor of cultivated corn. Boil smut is the easiest fungal disease to identify, because it forms large tumours at the ovary level and transforms corn kernels into misshapen black and dusty mushrooms. Ustilago fungi can also attack any other part of the plant. In Mexico, infected kernels are used as candy, and are thus harvested and eaten.

Treatment: to this day, no truly efficient treatment exists, because the Ustilago spores spread in the soil and resist until the next crop. The infected crop must be burnt on site. Experts recommend the cultivation of resistant hybrid cultivars, or the alternating of three crops (corn, soy, grain), because soy and grain are not affected by this pathogenic fungus.

Photo: KK Shrestha, D.R

., Veseys & Clearom

apLANT HEALTH

chemicals applied from a water-based spray, including

wettable powders, water soluble mixtures and oil-in-

water concentrates.

Agri 2 makes water wetter. Breaking down the retention

of water means that more water will enter your hydroponic

system or be expulsed from your pressure sprayer. Use

Agri 2 with insecticides, fungicides and fertilizers. Spray

until water puddles on the soil’s surface, then use to get

water to penetrate soil. This product is manufactured by

Agri-Growth International Inc.

(www.agriorganics.com/products/agri2.html).

b) G.E.T.: The Power of Neem!

Sprayed on plants, neem oil provides

a natural shine. Neem Power from

Growing Edge Technologies is derived

from the Azadiracta indica tree,

which grows in Asia (Iran, Nepal, East

India, Bangladesh, Myanmar, Japan,

Malaysia, Indonesia, Cambodia, Laos,

and Viet-Nam), Australia,

Continental and Central

America (in the Caribbean

Islands – Haiti, the Dominican

Republic, Ecuador, Puerto

Rico, the Virgin Islands – and

in the continental United

States – in Florida, California, Oklahoma, and Arizona) and

Africa (in Western African countries – Burundi, Ethiopia,

Sudan, Kenya, Malawi, Mozambique, the United Republic

of Tanzania, Uganda, Zambia, and Zimbabwe – and in

sub-Saharan Africa – Sahel region). The Azadiracta indica

or neem tree is a hardy tree that has many characteristics

bugs don’t like. When we extract oil from the seeds of

the tree, we obtain a very powerful bug deterrent that

is harmless to plants. (Because it is an oil product, do

not spray the foliage too heavily, or you may plug up

the stomata, which transpire water, carbon dioxide and

oxygen). Neem oil will also work systemically in the soil

when applied as a soil drench. To find out more about

this product: www.growingedgetechnologies.ca.

7 – Other Gardener’s Little Helpers

a) Sticky Stiks and Sticky Strips

Sticky Stiks naturally attract bugs to their yellow pads

where bugs get stuck. In fact, they are perfect to let you

know if you have bugs. Set up the Sticky Stiks around

plants. Sticky Strips are the same, but with a larger sticky

surface. Use them when you suspect flying or hopping

insects are present.

b) The Garden Ghost

The Garden Ghost scares animals away by emitting a

loud burst of air. A compressed can of air with infrared

motion detector lets out a strong burst of air when any

heat-producing mammal moves in front of The Garden

Ghost. Each can has over 200 bursts of air.

c) Rabbit Repell from Wilson

Apply with a brush to the stems of plants to stop critters

from eating plants.

d) Skoot® Repellent from Veseys

Skoot® Repellent protects ornamentals,

shrubs, nursery stock, young fruit trees,

evergreens, hedges and perennials from

mice, rabbits, and deer. Paint on trees or

shrubs. Skoot® is non-toxic to pets.

e) Clearoma® Odour Eliminating Gel-Pak

Clearoma® Odour Eliminating Gel-Pak is an innovative

product that masks odours very well. Clearoma contains

proprietary odour-control chemicals with specific odour-

suppressing properties. It is easy to refill without sprays

or atomizers. This new product is 100% biodegradable

and doesn’t emit airborne particles. This product was

formerly known as Aromask®. See: www.clearoma.com.

f) Time-Released Odour Controller

(TimeMist®, SeBreeze®, Ozitape®, etc.) offer specific

time-released odor controllers. Check them out at

www.shoplet.com. Most of them are programmed

with over 3,000 bursts of odour control per bottle

and a time-release control dispenser.

SeBreeze odour controller from Rubbermaid and its refiller

��THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE �


Photos: International Rice Research Institute, Manila, http://hom

e.tiscali.be/tnol3008/offre/odd0

1, & D

.R.

TECHNIqUES

There are several approaches to breeding plants, which are

often mixed and matched. For our purposes, seed breeding

techniques can be loosely divided into two categories.

Traditional Line BreedingThis method involves growing out a great number of plants

from the seed of a new potential variety, whether this is

a cross of two distinct, known varieties, or a selection of

one particular strain or landrace. Basically, every

plant is assigned a number. Only those plants

that exhibit desirable characteristics are kept

for further cultivation. The second generation,

a row of plants, are each assigned a letter (for

example), and are grown from the seed of each

plant held over from the first generation. Only

those desirable rows of plants are kept for further

multiplication – and so on, season after season.

In this manner, undesirable characteristics are

gradually “weeded out,” and the best traits

are constantly improved over many successive

generations until the variety is deemed

commercially viable. This type of breeding is

generally done on a large scale (macro), so a

great deal of healthy genetic diversity can be

retained by strains developed with this method.

These strains are very likely to be true-breeding

(stable).

Micro-BreedingThis approach typifies the small-

scale seed saver and heirloom

variety collector. The grower

saves the seeds from a particular

selection or cross, grows them

out, then selects only the very best

plants for the next generation.

This is repeated for a couple

generations; however, each time,

only the genes from one plant (or

a very small number of plants) are

transferred to the next generation. When a truly desirable

plant is discovered, it is pollinated to produce seeds for this

newly-created “variety,” or cloned before a final seed crop.

There may be a loss of diversity associated with this method.

It requires great attention to detail: if at any point during

this operation, the wrong plant is selected, the grower may

end up with an unstable, inbred variety. On the other hand,

if the right plant is carefully selected, and a good measure

of luck is on the breeder’s side, then truly amazing new

varieties with completely new characteristics can be created

in this way. Generally, these varieties aren’t true-breeding,

so the breeder must keep clones of the original plants (P1

generation) to reliably produce the same seeds or clones for

as long as the variety is being marketed.

Place your clones in my organic bed (see Volume 2 – Issue 3,

pages 12-13) and don’t forget to add bat guano to your soil

mix (NPK 7-6-12 + 4 mg/L).

A guano plant in Uruguay circa1920

With These 2 Different Methods,

Breed To SucceedBy Soma

The IR-8 rice variety is a semi-dwarf high-yield strain obtained by breeding two close parent rice strains: PETA from Indonesia and DGWG from China

Phot

os: D

.R.

Some readers have mentioned that they have tasted home-grown organic vegetables and

were completely disappointed to find the produce they were eating had no flavour or tasted

bitter. It came as quite a disappointment to them, as they equated organic with healthier,

tastier, and home-grown as simply better, simpler, more environmentally-friendly. We at The

Indoor Gardener decided to look into it, if briefly, because it seemed to us that when we think

of organic produce, we imagine a fuller, better flavour. Mind you, this could be due to the fact

that the organic produce we buy is often fresher, grown on a smaller farm where more care is

given to each plant, and picked closer to the time of ripeness. On this topic, we encourage all

indoor gardeners to submit us their tips and tricks, their advice and experience!

Organic fertilizers are made from, you guessed it, organic materials, derived from living

beings: manure, compost, bone meal, etc., whereas chemical fertilizers are made from

non-living compounds. Organic nutrients, as opposed to chemical nutrients, are not readily

available to the plant: they must first be broken down into simpler molecules by the micro-

organisms contained in the soil. Organic nutrients do not deplete the soil: on the contrary,

they improve its structure and its ability to retain both water and nutrients, and the action of

the micro-organisms ensure a slow release of all the required vitamins and minerals. This in

turn ensures that you will rarely see nutrient burns.

If organically-grown vegetables seem bland and flavourless, one possible explanation is that

the organic nutrients applied to the soil did not have sufficient time to decompose, and were

therefore present but unavailable to the plant. Manure, for example, can require months to be

properly broken down, and compost must be fully ripe before it is added to the soil. Another

possibility is that the organic materials used were old or of poor quality. Often, the gardener

cannot know the exact composition of an organic mixture, and some guess work is required,

as well as trials and errors.

Producing organic vegetables at home is an entirely different approach from commercial

production. Whereas commercial producers will aim for a perfectly shaped fruit or vegetable

with a long shelf-life, for produce that can withstand transport and storage, the organic

gardener can choose to focus on taste and flavour instead, allowing the produce to ripen on

the plant. Commercial production also tends to push the plants to grow faster, to flower and

fruit more and more rapidly. The organic result may be less appealing than what is found on

grocery shelves, the tomato may show some cracks, but its flavour may be infinitely superior.

Seeds should be chosen with care, and heirloom varieties may be a valid option for those

looking for that “natural”, garden-fresh taste.

In hydroponics as in soil, one safe approach is

to buy brands of nutrients that have a solid

reputation. Most brands offer organic flavour-

enhancers and additives to increase the

production of essential oils. Follow the

instructions and recipes carefully. Once

again, the indoor gardener must proceed by

trial and error. Keep a journal in which you

write down all your experiments, and learn

from your mistakes. Vegetables first developed in an organic soil, with natural and accidental

inputs, and as caring gardeners, we must aim not only to find that natural taste again, but

also to improve on it, helped by the advances in plant nutrition and in research. And in this

as in anything horticultural, patience is required, but it is also eventually rewarded by the

satisfaction of a job well done and the pleasure of a delighted palate.

– Sources: www.bostongardens.com, wikipedia.org.

SugarDaddy is a revolutionary product with a scent of smooth maple syrup that provides plants with a wealth of essential components. In return, the plants produce lush �owers, fruits and vegetative growth with enriched fragrance and �avour for the gardener.

www.technaflora.com Tel: (604) 468-4769 Fax: (604) 468-4758 Toll Free: (800) 586-1211

SugarDaddy: Who’s your daddy?January/February 2007 Indoor GardenerTechnaflora Plant Products Ltd.Laura Murphy, Marketing DirectorPhone: 604.468.4769 Toll Free: 1.800.586.1211

◆ Exceptional Value.◆ SugarDaddy can be used in conjunction

with any Leading Brand of nutrients.◆ Contains 2% Available Carbohydrates. ◆ Maintains Vigorous Growth rate through carbohydrate, protein and fatty acid synthesis.

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WHO’S YOUR DADDY?

© 2006 Techna�ora Plant Products Ltd.

TECHNIqUES

Organic FlavourBy Helene Jutras


Photos: Bruno BredouxBOTANICAL DICTIONARy

What do garlic, aloe, asparagus, dragon tree, ruscus,

South African pearl plants, lily, lily of the valley, narcissus,

snake’s head, onion and leek have in common? Strangely,

they are all part of the same family, the most important

family regrouping monocotyledon flower plants, mainly

bulb plants, the liliaceae. The association of some plants

to this family still raises issues for scientists today, and new

discoveries have made the family subdivide. Not so long ago,

some plants were called liliaceae but have been reclassified:

meadow-saffron is now part of the colchiaceae family, while

hyacinths and grape hyacinths are now considered to be

hyacinthaceae.

There are many schools of thought. Some only consider

some 420 species, split into 10 genuses as part of the

liliaceae, and propose about 20 sub-families as true families,

while others consider that liliaceae include 250 genuses with

subgroups totalling over 3,700 species found around the

world. Everybody agrees nonetheless to say that liliaceae

are tubercle plants or rhizome herbs that also include some

trees such as the dragon tree, and some plants that grow

as shrubs or as bushes. The family’s main characteristic is

to include many plants that are useful in the kitchen, since

bulbs are a nutritive resource useful to both humans and

small rodents.

In general, liliaceae bear their leaves low on the stem,

although some species bear them all along their stem. Think

of tulips to get a general idea of the main characteristics

of their leaves. The leaves show parallel veins or grooves,

are sometimes pinnate, and they stand alongside the stem

on either side, presenting an often single flower. There can

also be several flowers, in which case they are clustered.

Their complexion is trimerous (petals and sepals by three

or multiples of three) with, in their case, rather two tepals

(petals and sepals are identical) in multiples of three. These

tepals present two verticils (organs placed at the same level

on the same axis), generally united at the plant’s base. In

both cases, whether the plant bears a solitary flower or

various inflorescences, the flowers are actinomorphic, their

corolla being star-shaped.

The fruit will ripen as capsules or berries. Since this family is

the topic of infinite scientific debate, we will not attempt to

offer you a full review of it. Before discussing cultivable lilies,

however, we would like to return to a strange protected

species, the snake’s head fritillary, or Fritillaria meleagris.

This small bulbous plant comes from low altitude mountains,

boggy terrains and sunlit woods. It presents a characteristic

flower that gives it its common name and that can be

confused with that of an orchid. The flower can be by itself,

or there can be two on the same stem. The flowers always

take the shape of a drooping bell and are usually a more or

less dark shade of purple with a white pattern. It can easily

be cultivated in areas with a humid and cool summer. It likes

moist, well drained soils and especially enjoys grass (if it is

not regularly mowed!). It is rather rustic, and it can handle

full sun exposure with a very light shade period. Bulbs are

available from the Société d’horticulture du pays d’Auray

(France): http://hortiauray.com.

LiliesThis type of liliaceae includes over 80 different species,

saying nothing of the hundreds of cultivars developed by

gardeners since lilies have been cultivated, 3,000 years ago.

In the wild, lilies grew mainly in temperate zones of the

northern hemisphere, corresponding now to the northern

United States, to continental Europe, Japan, Korea, northern

China and southern Siberia. Apart from a few exceptions,

however, it is recommended, for garden horticulturists, to

prefer cultivars and hybrids rather than wild species. Their

rusticity is higher, and they offer an improved resistance to

pests and to disease-carrying pathogens.

Historically, the lily appeared on royal seals as early as the

middle ages. In the fifth century, it was found on wax seals

and on coins. Later it was used on royal crowns and at the

tip of the royal sceptre. It then moved towards heraldry and

flags. In Québec, it went from the flag to licence plates!

According to mythology, a drop of milk fell on earth

from the breast of Hera, wife and sister to Zeus, but also

protector of all women, which gave birth to the lily. This

splendid white flower soon triggered Aphrodite’s jealousy.

She could not refrain from adding her mark to the lily: the

stamens’ yellow stain. Now, thanks to cultivars, the colours,

shapes and varieties of lilies are infinite. The gardener can

create innumerable combinations of colours, shapes and

associations with most garden flowers.

Plant Classification6 – Liliaceae

By B.B.

Phot

os: G

aler

ie C

hez

L’H

irond

elle


Hybrid varieties* Asiatic Lilies (“Destiny”, “Enchantment”, etc.)These hybrids have a reputation for reflecting the colours of

summer. In fact, they are the first to flower, as early as late

June. In florist bouquets, they are the most often used

lily. They are usually quite short, not more than 1.5

metres (60 cm minimum). The flowers are lateral,

erect or drooping, with a span of 10 to 15

centimetres. Depending on the variety, the

drooping flowers can have the shape of

an rolled turban, very protruding.

Zones 3 – 9.

* Easter Lily (“Longiflorum Lily”, “St. Joseph Lily”, “Bermuda Lily”, etc.)It is the direct descendent of the lily born

from goddess Hera’s milk drop, meaning that

it is and remains the classic lily par excellence. Its

trumpet-shaped white flowers emit a perfume that is

said to be celestial, an allusion to their provenance. It is the

world’s most popular variety and cultivating it now denotes

a certain lack or originality, unless one is an acknowledged

classical gardener. The Easter lily, as well as all Asiatic lilies,

are very toxic to cats (all lilies are, but those varieties even

more so). Zone 7.

* Oriental Lily (Lilium orientalis) and Japanese Lily (Speciosum, “Red Beauty”, “Hot Lips”,

etc.)These two varieties are the most renowned

across the lily-cultivating world for their

“gigantic” characteristics: their perfume’s

strength, their adult size and that of

their flowers, as well as the diversity

and complexity of their colours.

Flowering occurs rather late:

at the end of August for the

oriental lily, and in September

for the Japanese lily. These lilies,

which can reach up to 2.4 metres,

require a stake support, even more

so since their flowers can span up to 30

centimetres. Their flowering is spectacular,

and their colours offer innumerable motifs on the

flower’s original white backdrop: halos, lines, golden

doted lines, crimson, pink, purple, etc. Both species enjoy

a soils that is slightly acidic (pH between 5 and 5.5), rich in

humus and compost. Zones 5 – 9.

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Photos: Bruno BredouxBOTANICAL DICTIONARy

* Trumpet Lily (“Pink Perfection”, “Golden Splendor”, etc.)It gets its name from its very pretty trumpet-shaped flowers,

most often pinkish or purplish, giving off a strong pleasant

smell. The flower colours are always pastels. The trumpet lily

flowers at the end of August, opening flowers that span 15

to 20 centimetres on a stem between 1.2 and 1.8 metres,

for a span of about 50 centimetres. They are superb

in bouquets. They require a full sun exposition or

a relatively little-shaded spot. A cross has given

us the hybrid Sonora (Lilium Sonora), bearing

white flowers with a dark red throat,

trumpet-shaped and very perfumed.

Zones 3 – 9.

* Lilium regale (“Regal Lily”, “Royal Perfumer”, etc.)Rather small,

not taller than

90 centimetres,

this hybrid flowers in

June and July. Its colours

vary, from the classic white

with a yellow throat to the Royal

Perfumer’s deep red with a yellow

throat. This variety offers trumpet-shaped

flowers with an axial placentation, where the

carpels are closed. Planting should be done in the

fall (September and October) in a rich, well-drained

soil. The Lilium regale bulb is perfectly round with purple

scales. The Lilium regale ‘Alba’ cultivar has perfectly pure

white flowers. Zone 4.

* Lilium Henryi (“Lilium Henryi ‘Citrinum’”, etc.)This variety is underused in modern gardens, probably due

to its size, which can reach up to 2.5 metres. Its flowers,

however, open as a long floral scape of about twenty

cuttings, turban-shaped, with a nice apricot-shade with

brown dots. It is a hardy variety that can handle a well-

drained alkaline soil (pH 8). In such a soil, it will do better

than most other lilies that require an acidic soil with a

constantly acidified soil pH. The Lilium Henryi ‘Citrinum’

cultivar offers very pale ecru flowers, nearly creamy yellow,

with a mottling Rorschach of maroon dots. Zone 5.

Wild Varieties* Lilium candidum or Lilium longiflorum (“Annunciation Lily”)The ancestor of the Easter lily (see above), which,

unfortunately, is little adaptable for garden cultivation

because of its tendency not to survive a winter spent in

soil and to its tendency to catch diseases such as botrytis.

White and very perfumed, it is a sought-after lily, but it is

preferable to opt rather for a hybrid replacement. If you still

wish to attempt its cultivation, know that its bulbs must be

planted very shallow (2 cm) at the end of August. Zone 9.

* Lilium martagon or Martagon LilyThis lily comes out of a golden yellow onion. Its bulb used

to be a good luck charm and its colour caused it to be

used by alchemists who attempted to transform

matter into gold. Again because of its colour,

it was harvested and eaten by peasants

during the middle ages during years

of famine. It grows wild in humid

prairies, in deep, fertile, shady

and boggy soils, forming

megaphorbs of tall,

luxuriant perennial

herbs with exuberant

foliage. It flowers at

the end of July, its stem

bearing a cluster of about forty

little flowers, turban-shaped,

with pinkish purple as the dominant

colour. Native from the Alps, thus from a

climate subject to abrupt variations, it is also

the only lily that can adapt to particularly shady

locations. In fact, it adapts well to a garden spot. It

is good to know, however, that its flowers often emit

a strong nauseous scent. Zones 4 – 9.

* Lilium tigrinum or Tiger LilyThe tiger lily is the wild lily that adapts the most easily to

domestic cultivation. Its orange colour, spotted in darker

(purple) dots, gave it its name, although it reminds one more

of a leopard than a tiger. Originating from eastern Asia, it is

a rather small lily, rarely over a metre tall. If, however, one

wishes to cultivate it, it must be planted apart from other

lilies, because it naturally carries a virus that is fatal to other

lily varieties. It is used in homeopathy, the tincture being

prepared from the entire plant in flowering. It flowers from

August to September and is very easy to cultivate because it

adapts well to poor, little maintained and not very calcareous

soils. Zones 3 – 9.

* Lilium canadense, Canada Lily or Meadow LilyAs its name indicates, it comes from North America.

Flowering in June along roads, in underbrush and humid

prairies, it is often seen in our daily lives. Its spotted flowers,

with their bowed head, are red, orange or yellow. It easily

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Introducing





BWGS is a Proud Distributor of Sunleaves Garden Products.BWGS is a Proud Distributor of Sunleaves Garden Products.

Check out our complete line of garden lighting, hydroponics systems, and more at Sunleaves.com!

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IG_OptiLUME_Ad2.qxd 11/27/06 9:47 AM Page 1


Photos: Éducation a l’environnement


reaches 1.5 to 1.8 metres. This lily, very abundant in nature,

is rather rare on the market because it is not recommended

for cultivation, although some gardeners have had success

transferring it from its native habitat to their garden. It is

better to leave it in forests and in the humic soils where it

prospers, and to only use it to renaturelize a site. Zones 3

– 9.

Lily ReproductionThere are two methods to reproduce lilies from bulbs. The

first is to divide the bulbs that prosper in a tiller ear in your

garden. This must be done in the fall, after the lilies have

flowered already for three to five consecutive years. You can

then disengage the bulb clusters, detach them as delicately

as possible from each other, and replant individual bulbs as

quickly as possible every 30 to 50 centimetres. The second

method is to detach the scales directly from very healthy

bulbs. Do not take off more than four or five scales

per bulb. Wrap the scales in a plastic bag with

vermiculite and make sure that condensation

appears to maintain a constant humidity

in the bag, for a period of eight weeks.

Store the bag at a temperature of 20 to

22ºC. When the plantlets start to form,

drastically reduce the temperature

(between 2 and 4°C) or place them

in the fridge for another six to eight

weeks. You will then be able to start

them as you would traditional cuttings, in

a propagation dome such as those used for

annual seedlings, or you can wait the end of

the frost season to plant them directly outdoors.

Lily CultivationAside from Lilium martagon, all lily varieties enjoy a very

sunny location, with at the very least six hours of light each

day. The best light for them is the morning sun, so a full east

exposition is preferred. This allows their foliage to faster

reach the dry condition that will protect the plant against

botrytis.

Plant the bulbs, kept in relative humidity, in the spring or in

the fall. The planting depth depends on the chosen variety –

refer to the indications on the package or to the advice of a

horticulturist. The depth can vary between two centimetres

for a wild variety such as Lilium candidum or longiflorum to

15 centimetres for some more fragile hybrids. The spacing

between the bulbs will also depend on the chosen variety’s

span, as well as on whether or not it will require a stake.

In the spring (end of May/early June), when the lily stems

are still 15 to 20 centimetres high, it is best to lay down

a cedar, straw or leaf mulch at their base. This will allow

the soil to maintain some humidity when the temperature

rises. The only variety that requires protection for the winter,

however, is that of the oriental lilies (other varieties will

survive without a glitch). For those, wait until the first frost

and, the next day, place above the bulbs a thick layer (at

least 20 centimetres) of straw or leaf mulch. Later, cover

with a jute cloth and a weight.

To keep your bulbs from one year to the next, they must be

planted in a well-drained soil that is rich in organic matter

and with an acidity/alkalinity that is constantly monitored,

because different lily varieties have different chemical

preferences when it comes to pH. Asiatic lilies prefer a

more acidic soil (pH 5 to 5.5). Then come the trumpet and

oriental lilies that prefer a pH between 6 and 6.5. Martagon,

candidum, regale and Henryi lilies prefer an

alkaline soil, around pH 8. To maintain

the proper organic activity within the

soil, it is advised to add to it some

sphagnum moss or some organic

compost.

Fertilizers should not be used

more than twice a year. One

teaspoon of 7-11-11 or 4-12-

8 per bulb, at the beginning

of spring and the same shortly

prior to flowering suffice. To

fertilize the bulbs, you only need to

mix the nutrients directly into the soil

above the bulb, without digging, staying at

the surface. In the spring, a treatment against botrytis is

required. When lilies are in growth or in flowering, make

sure that no pathogenic insect is present by lifting the leaves

to look at their underside. The lily leaf beetle often hides

there. Since it is visible and identifiable (it is a small dark

brown/red beetle with eight long black legs), you can clean

the leaves very early in the morning by removing the insects

by hand. If their population is too large, treat with a gentle

garden insecticide.

Lilies are gorgeous and are perfect for a freshly cut flower

bouquet. With frequently changed fresh water, they will

provide beauty for many days. Potted lilies offered as

presents can be successfully planted in soil once their

flowers have faded.

Documentation: Wikipédia, Au Jardin Info, Les Beaux Jardins, Société d’horticulture du pays d’Auray, Éducation à l’environnement, iVillage GardenWeb, Jardinage.net and DocHoméo.

53VOLUME 2 – ISSUE � THE INDOOR GARDENER

Phot

os: P

eter

Lap

shin

, Ult

ratr

im, E

lhar

t Zso

lt &

Håk

an S

önne

mo

DISCOVERy

For thousands of years, the San Bushmen of the Kalahari

Desert have been chewing on the stem of a variety of

Hoodia plant (a succulent) before and during nomadic

hunting-gathering expeditions to suppress both thirst and

appetite. The “Xhoba”, as they call the plant, apparently

provides a sense of alertness without jitters.

In the twentieth century, the Council for Scientific and

Industrial Research (CSIR) of South Africa began studying

the Hoodia “cactus” and discovered a previously unknown

molecule. They called the molecule P57 and patented it in

1997, then licensed it to Phytopharm, which in turn granted

the US rights to Pfizer.

The 100,000 San Bushmen, who live in South

Africa, Botswana and Namibia, complained

when they found out their native

plant would be commercialized. An

agreement was eventually reached,

and the San Bushmen will receive

6% of the royalties paid to the CSIR

when the new drug is released by

Pfizer, in 2008.

Hoodia is entirely natural, has no side

e f f e c t s

and is apparently

safe for most people.

Dr. Richard Dixey,

CEO of Phytopharm,

explains Hoodia’s

actions by saying:

“There is a part

of your brain, the

h y p o t h a l a m u s .

Within that mid-

brain there are

nerve cells that

sense glucose sugar.

When you eat, blood

sugar goes up because of the food, these

cells start firing and

now you are full.

What the Hoodia

seems to contain is

a molecule that is

about 10,000 times

as active as glucose. It

goes to the mid-brain and

actually makes those nerve

cells fire as if you were full.

But you have not eaten. Nor

do you want to.” It thus allows

anyone – even morbidly obese

individuals – to reduce their caloric

intake without effort or difficulty.

Hoodia supplements are already available, but unfortunately

often contain other substances, such as caffeine and

ephedrine. What Pfizer intends to release is a prescription

drug containing P57 or a synthetic equivalent. Hoodia works

in minutes for some people. For most, however, taking a

supplement for up to two weeks is necessary before any

effects are felt. Supplement users report a reduced interest

in food, delayed hunger, feeling full more quickly and a

general feeling of well-being.

Hoodia gordonii: The Succulent We’ve All Been Waiting For?

By Helene Jutras


Photos: ww

w.pasqualinonet.com

.arCOOkING

Buen Dia, como andan?

I am, finally, in Argentina! I

was to take a plane from Mexico City to

Buneos Aires at 8:50 p.m. First I was stuck in traffic, breathing in

carbon monoxide for a long hour. I still got to the airport on time,

only to stand in line for an hour and a half, to then learn that my

Mexico-Santiago flight was delayed until 10:30. We finally took off

at 12... the next day! This delay made me miss my Santiago-Buenos

Aires connecting flight, and I had to wait at the Santiago airport

four and a half hours for the next flight.

After 36 hours with no sleep and a 24 hour trip, I walk into an

onion-smelling hotel room. My room

is ugly, it stinks, and there is mould in

the bathroom, which has provoked a

serious fallout of paint and plaster. The

hairdryer is a fire hazard, with more tape

than electrical wire connecting it to the

wall. I can’t take much more – this will

do for tonight. I fall on the bed, only to

be awakened a few hours later by the

sweet sound of dishes clinking. I have

the unique chance of having the room right above the kitchen.

And, seemingly, dishes get washed in the middle fo the night

in Buenos Aires. I already know the first thing I’ll do tomorrow:

switch rooms!

Since my arrival I have been in a

heat wave, an almost-hurricane that

allowed me the privilege of getting

to the office soaked, and I mean

soaked. I neared death many times.

A pedestrian, here, has no right, and

that includes the right to live. Even

once you’re crossing the street, the

Argentine car driver does not react

when he sees a human being in his path: he does not brake, does

not swerve. If you do not mind your behind, you risk no longer

having one. At least the Mexican driver will honk and accelerate at

the sight of a pedestrian. He gives you a chance to realize you are

about to get squished – not the Argentine!

Typical Argentinean dishes are the parrillada (grillade) and asado

(méchoui). It’s like barbecue, but over a coal fire. Asados (pieces

of 1.5 kg or more of mutton or 100% pure Argentinean beef) are

cooked for hours on a grill. Parrilladas are made of various meat

quarters (half-pig, beef ribs, leg of veal, chicken) that cook slowly,

on a skewer on an embers fire. Some pieces of meat will cook

for 12 hours. Aside from meat, you will find a selection of well-

grilled edible offals, sausage, blood pudding and “skins” (fine

slices under the skin with much fat and very little meat). They also

grill provolone slices, served dripping. Argentinean wine is also

excellent and cheap!

To forget the Argentinean clichés for a while, here is a recipe for

a vegetarian parrillada. It takes an hour to prepare and 20 to 30

minutes to cook, but this vegetarian dish is worth the effort. Try

it with Argentinean wine and a few friends. To serve four, you will need:

• 4 bell peppers (if possible, and for fun : one red, one yellow, one

orange and one green)

• 2 eggplants (1 black, one white)

• 3 zucchinis (2 green and one yellow)

• 3 large onions, 6 to 8 cm in diameter (1 red and 2 white)

• 8 table spoons of olive oil

• 2 table spoons of lemon juice

• 5 fresh basil leaves

• salt and pepper (also: black coarsely chopped pepper corns)

• very hot coals in your barbecue

After cleaning the zucchini and eggplant, cut them in slices (1.5 to

2 cm-thick, to prevent them from going mushy during cooking).

Salt them and let them expel some water for 15 minutes (they will

cook better thus). Wash the peppers, remove the seeds and cut

each one length-wise in 1-cm wide slices. Peal the onions and cut

them in half at the circumference. With a brush, spread olive oil on

the vegetables and place them carefully on a skewer. You can place

them on the hot grill. Prepare the dressing by mixing the remaining

olive oil and the lemon juice. Add salt and pepper. As soon as you

remove the parrilladas from the grill, season with coarsely chopped

pepper, freshly cut basil and the dressing. Serve with a red wine

from Mendoza (western Argentina) and for desert, serve another

traditional gaucho treat, dulce de leche (milk candy). Let me know

how it goes… if ever I come back from Argentina!

Saludos !

The Country of Parrillada And Asado By Rose Laforêt

55VOLUME 2 – ISSUE � THE INDOOR GARDENER

Phot

os: ©

Ata

mi 2

006

SHOppING

1 – Root Stimulator Healthy roots are necessary for the sufficient absorption

of water, of nutrient salts and sugars. This root stimulator

ensures the roots’ vigorous growth and reduces the risk

of disease and parasites such as fusarium and root lice.

Sold in 250 ml (16 vials per box), 200 ml (25 per box),

1 litre (16 per box) and in 5 and 10 litre bottles.

2 – BoosterThis booster is, in fact, a six-in-one growth

stimulant. It contains, among other ingredients,

micronutrients, water bacteria, amino acids and

proteins. Its specific goal is to reinforce growth – it

makes for vigorous growth and healthy plants. For

use in soil, hydroponic and coco-based mediums.

Sold in 0.5 litre format, 1 litre (16 per box) and 5

litre.

3 – Flowering Stimulant Atami’s flowering stimulant is unique: it has been

copied but remains unequalled in both success and

effect. It stimulates the indispensable growth of

flower cells, increases the production and transport

of sugar molecules and allows the plant to develop

compact and vigorous flowering tips for an optimal

yield. Sold in 500 ml format (25 vials per box), 1

litre (16 per box) and in 5 and 10 litre containers.

4 – A + B Hydro, Coco and Soil fertilizersThe use of various growing mediums has increased in the

last few years, with mineral wool, coco fibres and soil

mixes. Each medium has its own specific characteristics and

requires a different water and air regimen. Atami fertilizers

are made of the purest raw material and of food-grade

elements. They are entirely adapted to the type of medium

and allow for an optimal yield. The ideal NPK rate ensures a

vigorous growth. They are economical and environmentally-

friendly. Sold in 1 litre (12 per box) and in 5, 10 and 20 litre

containers.

a) A + B Hydro (19 – 15 – 27): for rock wool cubes, Mapito pots,

on flakes (vermiculite, perlite), on expanded clay pellets,

polyurethane mats

(food-grade) and

in recirculating

systems.

Characteristics: rich fertilizer; the growing medium does not

bind to the fertilizer.

b) A + B Coco (21 – 16 – 19): for use on coco fiber.

Characteristics: the growing medium holds relatively

large quantities of air and little water. High nutrient

absorption.

c) A + B Soil Mix (21 – 14 – 28): for biological soil mix.

Characteristics: the

medium contains a

high quantity of raw

materials and allows to

save up on nutrients.

NPK value in A + B

expressed in %.

5 – Bio Defense 1 and 2 Just like humans, plants produce antibodies to repel

pathogenic germs, insects and mould. These antibodies are

protein substances called alkaloids.

B’cuzz Bio Defense stimulates the

production of antibodies and

directly fights harmful organisms.

Sold in two vials that must be used

simultaneously. 2 x 50 ml and 2 x 250

ml (16 of each per box).

6 – Cultivation TraysAtami’s BCcuzz

cultivation tray is

an innovative and

rugged support,

allowing for

many cultures.

It seems to say

“here I am!”,

which happens to be the literal translation of “Atami”!

Request the Atami cultivation tray, with the Atami name on

the side.

Source: Atami.fr (text and pictures)

Hydroponic Classics – IIAtami’s B’cuzz Products


Photos: Concepts Lecault, Hydrofarm

& City Plantes

SHOppING

“Collection Coup de Cœur” hydroponic pots from Concepts LecaultConcepts Lecault has just launched their newest product

from the Collection Coup de Cœur! It is a 9 cm (3.5 inch)

pot in which you can easily transfer a plant from soil, up

to 13 cm (5 inches). With these pots, water approximately

every three weeks only.

They come in the ideal size for people who are starting

with hydroculture, for small spaces, windows or for

cuttings, etc. Obviously, as the collection’s

name states, these pots are heart shaped

(Valentine’s Day is coming soon!).

With this new collection, you have a choice

of six trendy colours that match your décor!

These pots sell in three different formats:

• Regular: pot, basket and water level indicator;

• Starter kit: pot, basket, water level indicator, clay and nutrients;

• Gift set: pot, basket, water level indicator, clay, nutrients and coaster,

all packed in a nice gift box.

Concepts Lecault does both wholesale and retail. Consult their retailers’ list

on their website. Or, for more information, write to: info@conceptslecault.

com, visit: www.conceptslecault.com or call 514 906-7908. – D.L.

Humic BlackHumic Black is a concentrated humic blend, derived from hardwood plant

extracts, which is compatible with all rooting gels and liquids as well as all

hydroponic nutrients. Humic Black is used throughout the growth stage

and will upgrade the nutrient consumed by the plant. Humic Black is

available through Hydrotek, for distribution in Canada and the U.S.

Fulvic GoldFulvic Gold is a concentrated blend of fulvic acid, derived from hardwood

plant extracts, which is compatible with all hydroponic nutrients. Fulvic

Gold can also be used as a foliar spray that can be applied daily. Fulvic Gold

is available through Hydrotek, for distribution in Canada and the USA.

Green CropGreen Crop encourages aggressive vegetative growth in young plants

when it is added to your nutrient solution. Green Crop can also be used

to prevent yellowing in clones, while they develop new roots. Green

Crop is also compatible with all rooting compounds. Green Crop is

available through Hydrotek for distribution in Canada and the USA.

– André DiPatria

Vortex Powerfans From AtmosphereVortex Powerfans feature high performance in an impressive

aerodynamic package. These high-power inline duct blowers are

constructed from quality steel and feature a resilient and attractive

baked epoxy finish. The convenient “tape flange” allows you to

place your ducting directly on the blower and easily fasten it in place.

Superior quality and smart design ensure vibration-free operation,

featuring balanced motors with permanently lubricated

ball bearings. It includes a manufacturer-installed

power cord and galvanized mounting brackets

for horizontal or vertical installation. Vortex

Powerfans are now available from Hydrofarm

(www.hydrofarm.com). – M.M.

The HydroHut™ Controller Mounting BoardThe HydroHut™ Controller Mounting Board is now available from

Hydrofarm. It features the latest technology for your grow room:

* Mount all of your controllers, timers and gauges in minutes;

* Installs into any HydroHut™ in minutes from main Hut poles;

* Lightweight and durable construction for years of service;

* Allows for easy access and viewing of your choice of meters;

* Mount what you like where you like on board.

The choice is yours.

* Affordable solution for any hobbyist to look like a pro.

– M.M.

CityPlantes’ Cool-Lite® 125 BulbCityPlantes has developed an energy-saving bulb: the Cool-Lite® 125. It

is the first “cold” bulb to deliver on its promises.

* Advertized consumption is accurate.

* The light flux (9,600 lumens) is measured and standard.

* Hoped-for results are achieved!

Thanks to its unique design based on a dual power supply and two

starters:

* The light spectrum and light output are regular.

* The bulb is impervious to surcharge.

* Performance deterioration in time is slowed down.

Here is a comparison table of its main avant-gardist specifications as

compared with two previous-generation bulbs:

Previous generation 125 W bulb

Previous generation 200 W bulb

Cool- Lite® 125

Actual consumption (watts)

70 125 125

Ballast simple simple double

Starter 1 1 2

Lumens PAR 5,400 9,600 9,600

Sensitivity to surcharge Strong Strong Low

Spectrum degradation Quick Quick Slow

Price difference 91% 152% $90 Cdn

Complete kits will soon be available, with all

elements required to install this bulb in your own

lighting system. See: www.cityplantes.com.

– P.B. and J.-P.D.Hor

ticul

tura

l Nov

eltie

s

Photos: MegaW

attINDUSTRy BUzz (AdvertoriAl)

New Product Info From MegaWatt Hydroculture

New at MegaWatt!Megawatt Hydroculture in

Morin Heights, Quebec,

Canada has recently built a

new, larger warehouse to

add to its existing one, thus

tripling its storage capacity.

This important investment

will minimize stock shortages,

improve shipping and ensure

better customer service.

Adding to our extensive product line-up of Technaflora,

Grozyme, Philips, Fibrgro, Elicent, Plantsydd, Solo, Doktor

Doom, Mag Drive, Sunshine, Grotek, Jurassic, Future

Harvest, Optimum, Plug’n’Grow, EZ-Clone, Lambert, and

Solarmax, we also carry EcoSystem, Mountain Air, Future

Brite, Strippers, Venture, Sunmaster, Rubicon, General

Hydroponics and more.

In existence since 1979 and selling hydroponic equipment

since 1987, Megawatt was one of the first distributors in

Quebec. Always innovative and progressive, we strive to be

at the forefront of contemporary gardening trends. Your

bottom line is always our primary concern and we aim to

bring you the latest and best gardening equipment available

at the most competitive prices.

Our helpful and dynamic staff is at your disposal to improve

your sales and customer service. Our customers are already

very pleased with our new and improved installation.

Megawatt is open Monday to Friday from 8:30 AM until

5 PM. – N.C.

Sugar Daddy and MagiCal Now Available At MegaWattMegawatt has been distributing Technaflora Plant Products’

complete line of BC nutrients, Rootech, Awesome

Blossoms, etc., for over six years. We are very pleased

to now stock two new products from their quality

line: Sugar Daddy and MagiCal.

Sugar Daddy supplies 20 amino acids to your

plants and will ensure strong and healthy

growth, improved resistance, flavour and

fragrance. Sugar Daddy is to be used throughout

the growth and flowering stages of

your favourite plants, in soil and

soilless gardens.

MagiCal is a blend of magnesium,

iron and calcium that promotes

improved plant health when used

in conjunction with your regular

fertilizer. Expect improved aroma,

healthy roots, improved fertilizer

uptake and happy plants! Use in

soil or soilless gardens.

Call us today for more information or to order! – N.C.

New From Megawatt HydrocultureWe now stock the complete line of precision-engineered,

German-manufactured Solarmax lamps for the most

discerning growers. Guaranteed for one year, these lamps’

highest output custom spectral distribution ensures vigorous

growth and aggressive flower production. Order now!

– N.C.

Back By Popular Demand!Megawatt now stocks the complete line of quality General

Hydroponics nutrients and supplements! Call us for all your

GH needs, including the complete Flora series, the Maxi

series, Diamond Nectar, Floralicious Plus, and Koolbloom,

Improve your plants’ yield, appearance, flavour, nutrition

and shelf-life. – N.C.

We welcome your enquiries and orders at 1 800 575-2515,

or visit www.megawatthydro.com.

Technaflora: The New Recipe for Success Over the years, customers have come to depend upon

Technaflora’s Recipe for Success to meet their gardening

needs. With the introduction of two new products,

MagiCal™ and SugarDaddy™, the recipe just got better.

Still uncomplicated and easy to master, the new Recipe for

Success mixing formulas generate rapid growth, increased

flowering and bloom yield and enhanced flavor, aroma

and essential oil production. The one-formula per stage

INDUSTRy BUzz

feeding program remains consistent through both the vegetative and flowering stages of growth,

eliminating the complexity of week-to-week feeding programs commonly used in the industry. To

print out a copy of the new Recipe for Success in English (metric/imperial), French or Spanish, visit

our website at www.technaflora.com.

– L.M.

Happy New Year From Technaflora Plant Products Ltd.Looking back at 2006, Technaflora Plant Products Ltd. has gone through some amazing changes. We

celebrated our 10th year anniversary and launched two new products – SugarDaddy™, a revolutionary

product that greatly enhances the fragrance and essential oil production of flowers

and fruits during all stages of plant growth, and MagiCal™, an enriched

formulation of magnesium, calcium and iron that promotes vigorous and

healthy plant growth.

Technaflora’s B. Seaweed label was updated, the website redesigned and

we hired R&D Director Ranil Waliwitiya. Adding to its list of accomplishments,

Technaflora was excited to welcome Hydrofarm and National Garden Wholesale into its exceptional family of

distribution partners, which includes BWGS, Eddi’s, MegaWatt HydroCulture, Stellar Wholesale Inc. and Quality

Wholesale.

Our greatest contribution for 2006 comes from giving to those who are less fortunate. On behalf of our Distributors, donations were

made to the Canadian Breast Cancer Foundation, Mother Hubbard’s Cupboard, Delancey Street Foundation, Dr. Jay Foundation and

the Institute for Simplified Hydroponics.

Technaflora would like to say thank you to its dedicated staff, customers, retailers, wholesalers and friends for their continued

support over the past incredible and exciting 10 years. It’s through your support that we have become the success we are today. We

look forward to continuing this exciting journey throughout 2007 and beyond. – L.M.

ORDER PAST ISSUES or SUBSCRIBE TO 6 ISSUES FOR $29.40* (taxes and shipping & handling included)

VOLUME 2 ISSUE 5,

March 2007,WILL BE AVAIL-

ABLE

SOLD OUT

or $95.00 for international orders

see our order form on the back of this page…

Photos: SunleavesSHOppING

Homebox XXLNow gardeners can think inside an even bigger box with

the Homebox XXL. Measuring 3.3 m x 1.2 m x 2 m, the

largest Homebox model features a

heavy-duty zipper in front and back so

you can easily access your ready-made

grow room. Complete with equipment

supports and ventilation windows, the

light- and air-impermeable Homebox

XXL has a reflective, water-resistant

inner lining, a heavy-duty black canvas

exterior and a sturdy internal metal

frame. Find a supplier in your area by

visiting bwgs.com and entering your zip code in

the “Where to Buy” search field, or call (800) 316-1306.

– K.B.

Future Brite Ballasts are Simply the Best! Year ‘round garden centers throughout the U.S. are stocking

Future Brite Electronic ballasts: the oldest-running, most

reliable electronic HID ballasts available

to date. Compact, quiet, and

lightweight, these ballasts reduce

energy consumption (and cost) by

operating via digital circuits

rather than traditional magnetic

coils. Their consistent wattage

output also optimizes HID lamp

performance and lifespan. To give gardeners peace of

mind, Future Brite provides a ballast warranty on every

model they produce: the 400- and 600-watt electronic

ballasts have a two-year manufacturer’s warranty with an

option to purchase a third year, while the 1000-watt models

come with a one-year manufacturer’s warranty. – K.B.

Sunleaves Family Continues to Grow High intensity discharge (HID) lamps and hydroponics

fill-and-drain kits are the latest additions to an ever-

expanding Sunleaves product family. From 250 to 1,000

watts, OptiLUME HID lamps successfully emulate sunlight

to promote bounteous vegetative growth (metal halide)

in addition to bud set and flower formation (high pressure

sodium). All OptiLUME lamps carry a one-year manufacturer’s

warranty. Complete with fill and drain fittings, screens and

risers, the 1.3 cm and 1.9 cm Sunleaves Fill and Drain Kits

make it easy for hydroponics enthusiasts to create their own

ebb and flow system. Items are also available individually to

replace missing or worn components, as are various sizes

of quick clamps and barbed tubing connectors. Please visit

www.sunleaves.com for more information on these and

other Sunleaves products. – K.B.

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ISSUE 1 - APRIL 2005

ISSUE 4 - DEC. 2005

ISSUE 2 - AUGUST 2005ISSUE 3 - SOLD OUT

ISSUE 6 - MAY 2006ISSUE 5 - MARCH 2006

VOL.2 Issue 2 - SEPT. 2006VOL.2 Issue 1 - JULY 2006

VOL.2 Issue 3 - Nov. 2006VOL.2 Issue 4 - JAN. 2007VOL.2 Issue 5 - MAR. 2007

THE HyDROpONIC wORLD OF NORTH AMERICA10051 North 2nd St.

Laurel, Maryland 20723

301-490-9236866-MD-HYDRO

WWW.mdhydro.com

8484 Florin Road # 110 Sacramento, CA. 95828

Ph. (916) 381-2464Fax: (916) 381-2468

Opening soon1918 16th street

Sacramento, Ca 95814

PLANT’ IT EARTH2279 Market StreetSan Francisco, CA 94114(415) 626-5082www.plantitearth.com

PLANT’ IT EARTH1 Dorman AveSan Francisco, CA 94124(415) 970-2465www.plantitearth.com

B E R K E L E Y INDOOR GARDEN

844 University AveBerkeley, CA 94710

(510) 549-1234Fax: (510) 549-2582

GREENMILE HYDROPONIC GARDEN SUPPLY

1035 South Mt Vernon Ave, Suite GColton, CA 92324Tel: (909) 824-9376

Boulder / Denver

Year-round Garden Supply

(formerly Growers Choice Hydroponics)

1100 Carver Road, #20Modesto, CA 95350

Tel.: (209) 522-2727Toll free: 1-866-788-0765

5561 South Orange Blossom Trail

Orlando FL. 32802 Toll Free(888) 833-4769

ROCKY MOUNTAIN LIGHTING AND HYDROPONICS

302 Main SterlingDenver, CO 80751

Tel: (970) 522-2250Toll free: (800) 886-5020

www.rockymountainlightin-gandhydroponics.com

132 Kennedy AvenueCampbell, CA. 95008

http://www.precisionhydroponics.com

Tel: (408) 866-8176Fax: (408) 866-8187

We specialize in CUSTOM DESIGN

116 West Orangeburg AvenueModesto, CA 95350

www.cocas-hydroponics.com

Monday to Friday: 10AM-6PM

Saturday & Sunday: 10AM-5PM

United States10051 North 2nd St.


301-490-9236866-MD-HYDRO

WWW.mdhydro.com

Place your ad hereContact Sales & advertising:

[email protected]

VOL.2 Issue 3 - Nov. 2006VOL.2 Issue 4 - JAN. 2007VOL.2 Issue 5 - MAR. 2007


[email protected]

THE HyDROpONIC wORLD OF NORTH AMERICA

www.AnthonysGarden.com

"Our Business Is Growing"Your Indoor Outdoor

Gardening Specialists

93779 Troy Lane - Coos Bay, OR 97420(541) 266-8822 Fax: (541) 266-9754

3839 6th AveTacoma, WA

(253) 761-7478www.indoorgarden.com

714 South CentralKent, WA


23303 Highway 99, Suite AEdmonds, WA


394 Route 15/P.O. Box 235Underhill, Vt 05489

Tel.: Toll free 1 (800) 564-9376www.hooked-on-ponics.com

Green Thumb Gardening

Grow Monster Plants

THE GROW ROOM8 Bridge StreetNyack, NY 10960Toll Free:

(800) 449-9630Fax: (845) 348-8811www.thegrowroom.com

38 Front StBallston Spa, NY 12020

Toll free (800) 850-GROW(518) 885-2005

Fax (518) 885-2754www.saratogaorganics.com

1555 Hurffville RdSewell, NJ 08080

Tel.: (856) 227-6300Toll free: 1-888-927-6300

Fax: (856) 227-2930www.tastyharvest.com

AHL Garden Supply1051 San Mateo Blvd SE

Albuquerque, New Mexico 87108phone 800-753-4617 / fax 505-

255-7417Read what other customers are

saying about their experience with AHL and ahlgrows.com

at http://ahlgrows.com/kudos.htmle-mail: [email protected]

[email protected]

For sales and advertising, contact:10051 North 2nd St.


301-490-9236866-MD-HYDRO

WWW.mdhydro.com


[email protected]

�2THE INDOOR GARDENER VOLUME 2 – ISSUE 3

THE HyDROpONIC wORLD OF NORTH AMERICA

Canada 107 Falcon Drive (Hwy. 97 S) Williams Lake, BC V2G 5G7

Phone: (250) 398-2899 Fax: (250) 398-2896

Toll Free: 1-877-588-5855www.hallsorganics.com

AQUA GRO HYDROPONIC SUPPLIES101-2689 Kyle RdKelowna, BC V1Z 2M9(250) 769-7745Fax: (250) 769-7748

GREEN WONDER GARDENING INC.22 Waddell Ave.Dartmouth, NS B3B 1K3Toll Free: (877) 845-6866(902) 466-1255www.greenwonder.com

2192 Route 102 Lincoln, New Brunswick, E3B 8N1

Phone: (506) 458-9208 Facsimile: (506) 459-1377 Email: [email protected]

"TIME IS MONEY, START GROWING TODAY

6 MONTHS NO INTEREST NO PAYMENTS!" "EXCLUSIVELY AT 21ST CENTURY GARDENING!"

Tracadie3717 Rue Principale506-395-6055

Edmundston 11 Crabtree 506-737-9982.

Dieppe 663 Malenfant Blvd. 506-388-9982

P.E.I.18790 Highway 1Desable, P.E.I.902-658-3182

St-John20 Bayside Drive506-657-9982

DEN HAAN'S GARDEN WORLD

exit 18 off 101Annapolis Valley, NS(902) 825-4722www.denhaansgardenworld.comwww.denhaansgreenhouses.com

4-2133 Royal Windsor driveMississauga, Ontario

L5J 1K5(905) 403-GROW (4769)

1-877-263-6287www.secondnaturehydroponics.com

GIVE YOUR PLANTS WHAT THEY NEED

Peterborough Hydroponic Center347 Pido Road Unit 32 Peterborough OntarioPhone/Fax 745-6868Toll Free 1-866-745-6868Manufacturer of PHC Garden Productswww.hydroponics.com

For any information, comment or request, contact [email protected].

For sales and advertising, contact [email protected].

If you want to send us pictures and articles, please contact us at:

[email protected] with “submission” in the subject line and

we will get in touch with you.

COME AND GROW WITH US!

3132, Isleville St.Halifax, N.S.

902-454-6646B3K 3Y5

4 Ontario locations: Ottawa, Gloucester,

Mississauga, North York

1-800-489-2215www.hydroponix.com

Hydroponics, fertilizers, lightingHome of Optimum Hydroponix®

bma404 Maitland Drive #2Belleville, ON K8N 4Z5(613) 967-9888www.bmacanada.com


Photos: Hagen &

D.R

.q & A

Q Hi!

My local hydroponic store has just got its first copy of your magazine,

the September/October 2006 copy. I am very impressed with your

magazine as it is very informing. There is an article in this issue (Sept/

Oct. 2006) under “Industry”, page 27, on air pump, air stone and air

curtains. What I am interested in is the “air curtains” which break up

the air into very tiny bubbles.

Would you be able to help me find, or give the company’s name who

makes them, and or where they can be purchased at? Any help you

can give me regarding this product would be greatly appreciated.

wth.

Hope to hear from you soon, Thank you,

N. Wilson, 108 Mile Ranch, B.C.

A Hi,

You will most easily find this item called an air curtain in a store that

sells aquarium accessories than at a hydroponic store. The air curtain

mentioned by the author is made by Hagen®. In your area, the two

Hagen® distributors are: Donex Pharmacy (145 South Birch Avenue, 100

Mile House, BC, V0K 2E0, tel: 250 395-4004, fax: 250 395-2683) and

Total Pet (100 Mile House) (#1 – 530 Horse Lake Road, P.O. box 2377,

100 Mile House, BC, V0K 2E0, tel: 250 395-8935, Fax:

250 359-8936). You can also look at Rolf C. Hagen®

Inc.’s website at: www.hagen.com (e-mail: customer.

[email protected]): you will find further

information there. If you do not have

Internet access, their number in Montréal

is 514 697-8510 and the company’s toll

free number is: 1 800 225-2700.

For our US readers: Rolf C. Hagen® Inc.

USA Corporation, P.O. Box 634, Mansfield, Mass.

02048, tel: 1 800 225-2700. The Canadian hydroponic

wholesaler Quality Wholesale also distributes various models of air curtains.

Tel.: 1 866 421-5858.

I hope you’ll find what you need. All the best,

The Editors

Q Ted here!

Hello, I received a July/August 2006 free issue from one of my

orders at Worm’s Way and on page 65 you wrote an article “One

Question... Two Answers!” In that article you mention several things

you use, like Tarantula by Advanced Nutrients, Pro-Mix VP {Very

Pourous}, and Herb Science Acme Series all for use in hydro. At the

risk of sounding ignorant, just where do I find these products, as I

would like to try them? Worm’s Way handles the Flora Nova but I

grow strictly with hydro and aeroponics. Could you e-mail where to

purchase these products?

Thank You,

Ted

A Hi Ted,

As we don’t know if you live in the United States or in Canada, it would be

better for you to call the manufacturers. They will give you a selection of

their local distributors in your area:

1 – Tarantula by Advanced Nutrients: Web: www.advancednutrients.com,

tel.: 1 877 604-8637, technical support: 1 800 640-9605.

2 – Pro-Mix VP by PremierTech: Web: www.premierhort.com

In the USA: Premier Horticulture Inc., Northern US Sales – Southern US

Sales – Western US Sales – National Accounts, 127 South Fifth Street, #300,

Quakertown , PA 18951 Tel.: (215) 529-1290 – Tel. Sales: 1 800 525-2553

– Tel. Grower Services: 1 800 424-2554 – Fax: (215) 529-1288.

In Canada: Premier Horticulture Ltd, Administrative Office – Canada Sales,

1785–55th Avenue, Dorval (QC), Canada H9P 2W3. Tel.: (514) 631-6700

– Tel.: 1 800 667-5366 – Fax: (514) 631-2333, E-mail Customer service:

[email protected], E-mail Grower Services: grower.services@

premierhort.com.

Or: Premier Tech Ltd, Head Office, 1,

Première avenue, Rivière-du-Loup (QC),

Canada G5R 6C1. Tel.: (418) 862-6356

– Fax: (418) 862-6685

Before we receive questions on this topic,

we want to inform our readers that the

MYKE PRO product, a mycorhiza-based

root regenerating product that we have

mentioned in several previous issues, is manufactured and distributed by

Premier Tech/Premier Horticulture Ltd. Let it be known!

3 – Herb Science Acme Series: manufactured by HydroTimes Herbscience /

147488 Canada Inc. (They don’t have a website) – Call Jeff: (450) 688-4848

– Fax: (450) 688-5261.

We hope that this will help you find these products,

Best regards,

S. Daimon

QU ESTIONS & A NSW ERSMany questions received at [email protected] these last two months were requests for precisions on products mentioned in recent articles. Some readers (hydroponics professionals) also send us information regarding their products at this address; their messages are intended for retailers and wholesalers, attentive readers of our magazine! You will find this information below.

Elite Air Curtain with Air Diffusers – 120 cm, ref A-997, and 38 cm, ref A-994 from Hagen®

Photos: D.R

., Doktor D

oom &

Hydrofarm

Q Hello,

Can you tell me who wholesales the cable suspension system for

hanging lights in the May 2006 issue at page 63?

Thanks,

Roy Gomez, retail store owner, A Fertile World

A Hi Roy,

PowerMaster (www.springbalancers.com) is the manufacturer of the cable

suspension system shown in our May/June 2006 issue. The US wholesale

distributors are PowerMaster Engineered Tools (936 494-3501) and

PowerMaster Midwest Ltd. (618 462-4113) and the Canadian wholesale

distributor is PowerMaster Tube & Torque (613 764-0572).

T.I.G.

Q A Message from China!

Hi! I am the manufacturer of the YM Instrument Co. Ltd in China.

Our products are mainly focused on pH Truncheon Meter, pH tester,

“Nutra Wand” conductivity meters, “Nutra Wand” pH meters

and related fields. Our product advances are mainly in the prices

and quality fields. We can provide you with good quality and low

price pH meters… Following is the address of our company: YM

Instrument Co. Ltd, East Avenue 246, Jiangsu Jiang, Yanshih, Zip

code: 225500, China, Websites: http://itm.com.cn/chinataizhou

and http://yingming.17.cn. If you are interested, please contact us

at: [email protected] or call (86) 523 8229902 or fax: (86) 523

8229905.

If you have any suggestions or questions, please do not hesitate to

let me know. We are looking forward to your reply!

Thanks and best regards

Mr. Jin Yang, YM Instrument Co., Ltd.

A Dear Mr. Jin Yang,

We think the message you have sent to our Q & A services will be far more

interesting for the hydroponic wholesalers

across North America than for us. With this

message printed above in our Q & A section,

be sure that you should be contacted by

those wholesalers soon after publication,

because they are among our most devoted

readers! We wish you all the best with the

extension of your market.

Best regards,

The Editors

q & A

LAST MINUTE SHOppINGDoktor Doom Spider Mite Knock Out Insecticide Plant Spray for Tomatoes and Vegetables

Starting in February 2007 Doktor Doom will launch its much anticipated “Doktor Doom Spider Mite Knock Out Insecticide Plant Spray for Tomatoes & Vegetables” on the US market. Finally, after three years of red tape with the EPA, Doktor Doom’s best selling Insecticide Plant Spray in Canada will be available to American customers. This 0.20% pyrethrin insecticide will rapidly become the #1 best-selling insecticide plant spray in the USA. The product has the highest level of pyrethrin available for a plant spray in the USA.

Doktor Doom Spider Mite Knock Out Insecticide Plant Spray for Tomatoes & Vegetables does not contain any piperonyl butoxide, which is very important for the organic minded gardener and, in addition, does not contain any perfumes or unnecessary additives – this is a fantastic benefit for those that want to use foliage and clippings to make essential oils. The 27.4 oz can comes with a special spray valve that even sprays upside down for hard-to-reach areas.

Contact Doktor Doom at [email protected] for more information and to find the distributor closest to you.

Grigg Kellock

Hydrologic Purification SystemsThe reputable Hydrologic water purification system is now available at Hydrofarm and is part of its product line. Hydrologic Water Purification Systems™ specialize in a wide range of water purification technologies exclusively for the hydroponics industry. Its flagship

system, the Merlin-Garden Pro™, is a high flow reverse osmosis system capable of producing more than 30 gallons of pure water an hour, or approximately 750 gallons per day. Hydrologic beats other products in efficiency by wasting 40%

less drain water. With the world’s water quality getting worse due to increased contamination, Hydrologic helps you deliver pure water to your plants. Visit www.hydrofarm.com.

R.K.

Jump Start™ Coco PlugsJump Start Coco Plugs are made from 100% coconut fibre – making them the ideal medium for certified organic growing applications. Just add water – they expand instantly for immediate planting. Available in packs of 24 or in bulk.

• Netting free – won’t harm delicate roots. • Nourishing – no added nutrients needed.• Low in sodium for excellent drainage.• Lightweight and easy to use. • OMRI listed.Visit www.hydrofarm.com.

R.K.

CoCo CroutonsMade from natural coconut fibre and fresh water rinsed for no salt residue, Coco Croutons are the lightweight organic alternative to clay pellets and rocks. Coco Croutons are easy to use: simply plant directly in the croutons or mix with other media to grow your plant.

• Neutral pH helps guard against mould and fungus.• Stable carbon source to resist breakdown.• Add to your mix to improve aeration and drainage.• Porous structure promotes feeder root growth in any mix.• Perfect for orchids.• OMRI listed.Visit www.hydrofarm.com (and find a Hydrofarm authorized retailer).

R.K.


The Indoor Gardener Magazine Volume 2—# 4 (Jan./Feb. 2007)

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Transcript of The Indoor Gardener Magazine Volume 2—# 4 (Jan./Feb. 2007)