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The How to Knit Guide

“Holding the needles and yarn” Everyone evolves their own personal way of holding knitting needles and yarn but it is still useful to know how to start. Right hand needle Hold the right needle as if you were holding a pencil. When casting on and working the first few rows, pass the knitted piece over the hand between the thumb and index finger. As work progresses, let the thumb slide under the knitted piece, grasping the needle from below (Fig.12).

Left hand needle Hold the left needle lightly over its top, using the thumb and index finger to control the tip of the needle (Fig.13).

Holding the yarn. Method 1 Holding the yarn in the right hand, pass the yarn under the little finger, then round the same finger, over the third finger, under the centre finger and over the index finger. Use the index finger to pass the yarn round the needle tip. The tension on the yarn is controlled by the yarn circled round the little finger (Fig.14).

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Method 2 Holding the yarn in the right hand, pass it under the little finger, over the third finger, under the centre finger and over the index finger. Use the index finger to pass the yarn round the needle tip. The tension is controlled by gripping the yarn in the crook of the little finger (Fig.15).

“Casting On” Casting on forms the first row of stitches. There are many ways of casting on and here we describe a one needle method and a two needle method. The thumb method (one needle) is

used whenever a less noticeable, very elastic edge is needed, or when the rows immediately after the cast on edge are worked in garter stitch or stocking stitch. The two needle method, known as ‘cable’ or ‘between needles’, gives a very firm, neat finish and is best used before ribbing or any other firm type of stitch. Before you start to cast on you need to make a slipknot, for this is the starting point of almost everything you do in knitting. Making a slip knot 1. Wind the yarn around two fingers and over the two fingers again to the back of the first thread (Fig.16).

2. Using a knitting needle pull the back thread through the front one to form a loop (Fig.17).

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3. Pull end to tighten loop (Fig.18).

Casting on with the thumb method (one needle) 1. Make a slip knot about 1 metre from the end of the yarn. Place the slip knot on a needle and hold the needle in the right hand with the ball end of the yarn over your first finger. * Wind the loose end of the yarn round the left thumb from front to back (Fig.19).

2. Insert the needle through the yarn on the thumb (Fig.20).

3. Take the yarn with your right forefinger over the point of the needle (Fig.21).

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4. Pull the loop through to form the first stitch (Fig.22).

5. Remove your left thumb from the yarn and pull the loose end to secure the stitch (Fig.23).

Repeat from * until the required number of stitches are cast on. Casting on with the cable method (two needles) 1. Make a slip knot and place it on the left needle (Fig.24).

2. Insert the right hand needle through the slipknot and pass the yarn over the right needle (Fig.25).

3. Pull a loop through (Fig.26).

4. Place this loop on the left hand needle (Fig.27).

5. Insert the right hand needle between the two stitches on the left needle. Wind the yarn

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round the point of the right needle (Fig.28).

6. Draw a loop through, place this loop on the left hand needle (Fig.29).

Repeat steps 5 and 6 until the required number of stitches are cast on. “The Basic Stitches” The knit stitch (k) 1. With the yarn at the back of the work, insert the right hand needle from left to right through the front of the first stitch on the left hand needle (Fig.30).

2. Wind the yarn over the right hand needle (Fig.31).

3. Pull through a loop (Fig.32).

4. Slip the original stitch off the left hand needle (Fig.33).

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Repeat until all the stitches have been transferred from the left to the right hand needle. To knit into the back of a stitch (KB1) This technique is sometimes used to create a twisted rib effect, as well as some textured stitch patterns. Insert the needle into the back of the stitch on the left hand needle (Fig.34),

then follow steps 2 to 4 for the knit stitch. The purl stitch (p) 1. With the yarn at the front of the work, insert the right hand needle from right to left through the front of the first stitch on the left hand needle (Fig.35).

2. Wind the yarn round the right hand needle (Fig.36).

3. Draw a loop through to the back (Fig.37).

4. Slip the original stitch off the left hand needle (Fig.38).

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To purl into the back of a stitch (PB1) Insert the needle into the back of the stitch on the left hand needle from behind and bring the point of the right hand needle through to the front (Fig.39),

then follow steps 2 to 4 for the purl stitch. The garter stitch The garter stitch is formed by working every row as a knit row, the first row usually being the right side (Fig.40).

The same effect can also be achieved by working every row as purl. Stocking stitch Stocking stitch is made up of one row of knit stitches followed by one row of purl stitches, starting with a knit row, which is the right side of the work. Reverse stitch Reverse stocking stitch is made up of one row of purl stitches followed by one row of knit stitches, starting with a purl row, which is the right side of the work. Ribbing Ribbing is an elastic fabric which is often used for garment edgings. The two most usual types are 1x1 rib, which is formed by alternating 1 knit stitch and 1 purl stitch (Fig.41) and 2x2 rib which is formed by alternating 2 knit stitches and 2 purl stitches (Fig.42). Care must be taken to purl the stitches which were knitted on the previous row and vice versa.

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Knit one Below (K1B) This stitch is used in Fishermen’s rib. Insert the right hand needle into the next stitch but in the row below the stitch on the left hand needle. Then knit the stitch as normal (Fig.43).

“Knitting in Rounds”

Any of the methods of casting on can be used. You can cast on onto one needle only and then transfer the stitches equally (or as indicated in the pattern) onto 3 needles before working the first round, or cast on directly onto the 3 needles. The fourth needle is used for the actual knitting. Circular needles are recommended when there are too many stitches for sets of 4. As you are working in rounds instead of back and forth, the right side of the work is always facing you; therefore all rounds will be knit rounds for stocking stitch, unless otherwise specified in a particular pattern. Care must be taken not to twist the stitches on the needles when working the first round and yarn should be kept tight between the needles to avoid looser stitches at corners. Note: In some countries double-pointed needles are sold in sets of 5, the work is done on 4 needles and the 5th one used for knitting. “Casting Off” Casting off is the method used to dispose of a number of stitches. It is used during shaping, on shoulder seams

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for example and often forms the last row of the work. Always cast off in pattern, i.e. when working on stocking stitch cast off knitwise on a knit row and purlwise on a purl row and when casting off ribbing, do so as if you were continuing to rib. Most pattern stitches can be followed when casting off. Casting off knitwise Knit the first two stitches. * Using the left hand needle, lift the first stitch over the second and drop it off the needle. Knit the next stitch and repeat from * (Fig.44).

Casting off purlwise Purl the first two stitches. *Using the left hand needle, lift the first stitch over the second and drop it off the needle. Purl the next stitch and repeat from * (Fig.45).

Casting off with a crochet hook It saves a lot of time if you use a crochet hook to cast off. Treat the crochet hook as if it were the right hand needle and knit or purl the first two stitches in the usual way. *Pull the second stitch through the first, knit or purl the next stitch and repeat from *. This method is particularly useful when a loose, elastic cast off edge is required, as you can gently loosen the stitch still on the crochet hook to ensure that the elasticity is retained (Fig.46).

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“Tension” We have stressed the importance of knitting a tension swatch before starting work. Here is how to proceed: If the tension quoted is, for example, “22 stitches and 30 rows = 10 cms square measured over stocking stitch on 4 mm needles”, you have to produce a fabric made up of that number of stitches and rows regardless of the needle size you use. The needle size indicated on the pattern is the one most knitters will use to achieve this tension, but it is the tension that is important, not the needle size. The instructions given in the tension paragraph of a knitting pattern are either for working in stocking stitch or pattern stitch. If they are given in pattern stitch, you must work a multiple of stitches the same as the multiple required in the pattern. If the instructions are given in stocking stitch, any number can be cast on but whichever method is used, it should always be enough to give at least two extra stitches each side, as the edges of a knitting sample will curl and

not give an accurate measurement. Work in pattern or stocking stitch, casting on the number of stitches given in the tension paragraph, plus 4 (i.e. 26 stitches) and work 34 rows or 4 rows more than the number stated. Break the yarn about 15 cms from the work, thread this end through the stitches, and then remove the knitting needle. Place a pin vertically into the fabric 2 stitches from one side edge. Measure 10 cms exactly and insert a second pin (Fig.47 - Note: diagram shows only 5 cms). Count the stitches. On stocking stitch, each loop represents one stitch. If the number of stitches between the pins is less than that specified in the pattern (even by half a stitch), your garment will be too large. Change to smaller needles and knit another tension sample. If your sample has more stitches over 10 cms, the garment will be too small. Change to larger needles. Check the number of rows knitted against the given tension also (Fig.48). Tension samples should never be measured on the needles because the needle distorts the fabric.

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“Increasing” There are three main methods of increasing stitches, all of which are quite simple to do. The first is to make a stitch (M1) by picking up a loop between two stitches and knitting into the back of it. This forms a neat, invisible increase, so is often used in the middle of a row or where a series of increases are to be worked. The second is to work into the front and back of a stitch (inc 1 or inc in next st). This method is normally used at the beginning and end of a row, for instance on sleeve

shapings. The third method is to make a yarn forward increase (yf) which, when completed, leaves a visible hole and is often used in lacy patterns. Don’t confuse the ‘M1’ and ‘inc’ methods of increasing. For example, after the rib has been worked, instructions are often given in the next row to increase stitches across the row by the ‘make one’ (M1) method. This does not use up a stitch but if you increase by knitting into the front and back of a stitch each time your instructions will not work out correctly and you will run out of stitches before completing all the increases required. Make 1 (M1) Lift the yarn lying between the stitch just worked and the next stitch and place it on the left hand needle, then knit (or purl) into the back of this loop (Fig.49).

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To make two stitches (M2) work as for M1 but knit into the back and then the front of the loop. Working into the front and back of a stitch (inc 1 or inc in next st) On a knit row, knit first into the front of the stitch normally, then, before slipping it off the needle, knit again into the back of the same stitch (Fig.50), and slip the stitch off. The same method is applied to a purl row, in this case you purl into the front then the back of the stitch (Fig.51).

Yarn forward increase On a knit row (yf), knit a stitch, bring the yarn to the front, take it over the right hand needle

and knit the next stitch (Fig.52). On a purl row (yrn), take the yarn over the right hand needle to the back of the work, then under the needle to the front (Fig.53).

Sometimes the abbreviation ‘yo’ (yarn over) is used as a general term on knit or purl rows to indicate that a stitch has to be increased by winding the yarn round the needle, as opposed to the ‘front and back’ method described above in Figs 49 and 50. In this case, ensure that you wind the yarn correctly. After you have worked the next stitch, check that you have actually made an extra stitch and not just carried

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the yarn from front to back or vice versa! “Decreasing” There are three main methods of decreasing one stitch. The first is to work two stitches together (k2tog or p2tog). Here the stitch remaining creates a right hand slope on the knit side of the material. When worked two or three stitches in from the end of the row, as for example to define a raglan edge or a dart on a skirt, this is called ‘fully fashioning’. The second method is to knit or purl two stitches together through the back of the loops (k2tog tbl or p2tog tbl). This produces a left hand slope that can also be used when fully fashioning is required. The third method is a slipstitch decrease (sl 1, k1, psso), which also creates a left hand slope. This is often used instead of working through the back of the loops, as it is easier to do. Work two stitches together On a knit row (k2tog), insert the right hand needle through two stitches instead of one, and then knit them together as one stitch (Fig.54).

On a purl row (p2tog), insert the needle purlwise through the two stitches and purl in the usual way (Fig.55).

Work two stitches together through back of loop On a knit row (k2tog tbl), insert the right hand needle knitwise through the back of the loops of the next two stitches on the left hand needle and knit them as if they were one (Fig.56).

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On a purl row (p2tog tbl), insert the right hand needle purlwise through the back of the loops and purl them as if they were one (Fig.57).

Slip stitch (sl 1, k1, psso) 1. Slip the next stitch on to the right hand needle as if you were going to knit it, then knit the next stitch (Fig.58).

2. Lift the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch and drop it off the needle (Fig.59).

On a purl row, slip one, purl one, pass slipped stitch over (sl 1, p1, psso). “Cables” Cabling requires a double-pointed needle to hold the first stitches out of the way until they are needed. The cable needle should be about the same size or smaller than the working needles, certainly not larger, as this would be difficult to knit from after the stitches are crossed. Cables differ in the number of stitches being used, the number of rows between the crossover and the direction of the crossover, left or right. Generally, cables are worked over an even number of stitches, with half the number crossed over or under the remainder, although this can

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vary to give many interesting effects. Cables are normally worked in stocking stitch on a background of reverse stocking stitch. If cables are worked during shaping (as in a V-neck or armhole) there may not be enough stitches to work the complete cable. In this case you should work the odd stitches in stocking stitch (or whatever other background stitch you are using), as it is obviously not possible to work half a cable. Making a front cross cable over 4 stitches (C4F) This will produce a left twist cable. 1. Working in stocking stitch on a ground of reverse stocking stitch, place the first 2 stitches on a cable needle and leave them at the front of the knitting (Fig.60).

2.Knit the next 2 stitches from the left hand needle (Fig.61).

3. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle, taking care to knit them in the same order as they came off the needle (Fig.62).

Making a back cross cable over 4 stitches (C4B) This will produce a right twist cable. 1. Place the first 2 stitches on a cable needle and leave them at the back of the knitting (Fig.63).

2. Knit the next 2 stitches from the left hand needle, followed by the 2 stitches on the cable

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needle in the correct order as before. “Lace knitting & Eyelet stitches” Lace patterns are all produced on the same basic principle. A hole or eyelet is made by winding the yarn round a needle. This makes an extra stitch, which is purled or sometimes knitted on the next row. To retain the correct number of stitches, each eyelet has to be compensated for by a decrease of some sort, such as k2tog, p2tog or sl 1, k1, psso. These decreases can be worked immediately next to the eyelet or a few stitches away depending on the design. There are three ways of making an eyelet, each differing slightly depending on whether the stitch before and after is a knit or purl. The important thing however is the same for each method - the yarn is taken round the needle to create an extra stitch that is knitted or purled on the following row. Yarn forward (yf) is worked between 2 knit stitches. This is the same as described under ‘increasing’. Yarn round needle (yrn) is worked between a knit stitch and a following purl stitch (or

between two purl stitches) and this too is described under ‘increasing’. Yarn over needle (yon) is worked between a purl stitch and a following knit stitch (Fig.64), as follows: Purl a stitch and instead of taking the yarn to the back of the knitting as usual ready to knit the next stitch, take it over the needle as in the diagram, and knit the next stitch.

Keeping lace patterns correct Most lace patterns rely on the fact that for every ‘yf’, ‘yrn’ or ‘yon’ which produces an eyelet and makes an extra stitch, there is always a decrease to compensate. When shaping, regard these as pairs of stitches and don’t make the eyelet unless you have enough stitches to work the balancing decrease. If this is not possible, work the odd stitches in the main background pattern - for example stocking stitch. Some lace patterns are more

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complicated and the ‘made’ stitches are not decreased until later rows. For these great care is required in following the instructions and this type of pattern is not recommended for a beginner. “Picking up dropped stitches” If a stitch drops off the needle, the first thing to do is to prevent it from running further by securing it with a safety pin. It is usually quite easy to pick up a dropped stitch, even if it has slipped through to the row below. Simply pick up the stitch and the strand above it on the right hand needle. Insert the left hand needle through the stitch and pull the strand through the stitch using the right hand needle to form the stitch once more in its correct place. However, if a stitch drops unnoticed it could easily form a ladder running down several rows. In this case the stitch must be reformed all the way up the ladder, using a crochet hook. Always work from the front (Fig.65).

“Picking up stitches along an edge” Once the main body of the knitting has been completed, it is often necessary to add extra finishing rows for neck bands, button and buttonhole bands and other edgings. Sometimes these sections are knitted separately and sewn on but it is quicker and neater to pick up stitches along the edge and knit directly onto these. To pick up stitches along a cast on, cast off or shaped edge Always working under a whole stitch (never through a single thread), insert the point of the knitting needle under the first stitch, pass the yarn round the needle and draw a loop through to form a stitch. Continue for as many stitches as are required (Fig.66).

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To pick up stitches along side edges To work a button band on a cardigan, for example, insert the point of the knitting needle between the first and second rows 1 whole stitch in from the edge, pass the yarn over the needle and draw the loop through. Often, the numbers of stitches that must be picked up are not the same as the number of rows that have been worked. It is easier to pick up the stitches evenly if you first divide the length of the edge in half, then in half again and again, so that the edge is divided into eighths. Mark each division with a pin. Divide the number of stitches to be picked up by eight and pick up approximately that number of stitches in each section (Fig.67).

“Buttonholes” Horizontal Buttonholes Knit to the position of the buttonhole and cast off the number of stitches required, depending on the size of the buttonhole and the thickness of the yarn. Work to the end of the row. On the next row, work back to the cast off stitches, turn and cast on the same number of stitches using the cable method, turn and work to the end of the row (Fig.68). On the next row, pick up the loose thread at the start of the buttonhole, work the next stitch, and then pass the picked-up stitch over.

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Vertical Button Holes Divide the stitches at the position of the buttonhole and work an equal number of rows on each set of stitches, then join up with a row of knitting worked right across (Fig.69).

Small Button Holes An easy way of making a small buttonhole is by the eyelet method as described here. This gives a small round hole, which is ideal for babies or children’s garments. “Joining yarns & working with colour” Joining in a new ball of yarn You will often need to join a new ball of yarn when the old one runs out. It is best to join it at the beginning of a row. If the yarn has to be joined in the middle of a row, pick up the new yarn and continue knitting. After you have knitted a few more rows, darn in the ends of

the old and new yarns neatly at the back of the work. Stranding colours Use this method for fairisle patterns (i.e. patterns where two or more colours are used on the same row). Hold the colour not in use in the left hand and carry it loosely across the wrong side of the work. To work the second colour exchange the position of the two yarns and continue in the usual way, making sure the yarn not in use is not pulled tightly when changing the colours over (Fig.70). To avoid long ‘floats’ where 6 or more stitches are worked in one colour, twist yarns together every 3rd or 4th stitch by laying the colour not in use across the colour being used before working the next stitch.

Weaving Yarns are twisted together every alternate stitch as follows: Hold the second colour in the left hand, insert

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needle into next stitch, lift yarn in left hand over the right hand needle and bring the yarn in the right hand over ready to work the next stitch. Before pulling the loop through, take the left hand yarn back again and complete the stitch in the usual way. It is possible to use this method for fairisle patterns as it gives a neat appearance at the back of the work, but as it distorts the stitches and alters the tension it is not recommended unless a pattern specifically calls for it. Colour blocks (motif knitting) This method is used where there are large areas to be worked in one colour. In this case it is better to use a separate ball of yarn for each section. The different colour yarns must be twisted over each other, to avoid forming a hole. When the colour change is in a vertical line, cross the yarns on both knit and purl rows. When the colour change is on a slanting line the yarn needs to be crossed only on alternate rows. Swiss Darning or Duplicate Stitch Swiss darning is a form of embroidery on knitting which covers the knitted stitches completely, so that the finished embroidery looks as if it had

been knitted in. It is a useful and versatile technique. Working Swiss darning horizontally: Work from right to left. Darn in the yarn invisibly at the back. Bring the needle out in the centre of a stitch and take it up and round the head of the stitch (under the stitch above). Take the needle back through the centre of the original stitch and out through the centre of the stitch on the left (Fig.71).

2. Take the needle back through the centre of the original stitch, then up through the centre of the stitch above (Fig.72).

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Working Swiss darning vertically: Work from the bottom to the top. 1. Bring the needle out in the centre of the stitch and take it up and round the head of the stitch (under the stitch above). “Joining” Grafting: This is an excellent way of invisibly joining two pieces of knitting. The edges are not cast off and the knitting can be joined either while it is still on the needles or after it has been taken off. Grafting with knitting on the needles: Thread a wool or tapestry needle with a length of knitting yarn. Place the two pieces to be joined with right sides facing and hold the knitting needles in the left hand. * Pass the wool needle knitwise through the first stitch on the front needle and slip the stitch

off the knitting needle. Pass the wool needle purlwise through the second stitch on the same needle, leaving the stitch on the needle. Pass purlwise through the first stitch on the back knitting needle and slip the stitch off, then pass knitwise through the second stitch on the same needle, leaving the stitch on the needle. Repeat from *. Pull the yarn through so as to form stitches of the same size as the knitted ones (Fig.73). To finish, darn in the loose ends at the back of the work.

Grafting with knitting off the needles: Carefully lay the pieces to be joined close together, with the stitches on each side corresponding to those opposite. Thread a wool or tapestry needle with the knitting yarn. Beginning on the right hand side, bring the needle up through the first stitch of the upper piece, bring it down through the first stitch

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of the lower piece and bring it up again through the next stitch to the left. * On the upper piece, pass the needle down through the same stitch it came up through before and bring it up through the next stitch to the left. On the lower piece, take the needle down through the stitch it came up through before and bring it up through the next stitch on the left. Repeat from * (Fig.74).

Backstitch seaming Most garments can be made up with a backstitch seam, which gives a neat finish if done carefully. Use the same yarn, splitting strands of thicker yarns if necessary and remember to keep twisting the yarn as you sew if it tends to unwind (Fig.75).

Invisible seaming - mattress stitch This joining method gives the neatest and most professional finish to a garment. Mattress stitch can be worked either one stitch in from the edge (Fig.76) or half a stitch in from the edge (Fig.77), depending on how neat the edge of the fabric is and how thick the yarn is. Where the knit side of the work is the right side, work under two rows at a time as shown in Figs 76 and 77. Where purl is used as the right side, it is better to work under only one row at a time (Fig.78) though experience will soon tell you which method to use. The secret of good mattress stitching is to keep the seam elastic without letting it stretch too much. The best way to do this is to work the mattress stitch loosely for one or two cms, then pull the thread very firmly so that the stitches are held together quite tightly. Now stretch this seam slightly to

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give the required amount of elasticity, and then continue with the next section of the seam. If you are accustomed to sewing your knitting together by other methods, it may take a little while to get used to mattress stitch, but practise makes perfect and the professional finish it gives makes it worthwhile.

One advantage of mattress stitch is that it can be used to sew shaped edges together quite easily. Because you are working on the right side of the work all the time, it is much easier to see where you are and to keep the seam neat.

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