H

n lano s Old Quarler ife s Lved cnlhe s dewalk !ct pcis b;bble nrls cblares work ng people squat al irnyplastc tacles and there s the ever--

presenl ruckus of nrotorb kes honkrngYou learn .o go w lh lhe flcw and

occas onally, even run alo.g w:h I

OU NTELLAKOH

1 ;l{

:j:1'/'.

)t.': ' ,

TRAVEI

Allwho have chancedLrpon Hanoi wilt iikety tettyou that it is the mostbreathtaking sphere inaltofAsia - the burstof cotours. tastes andsounds thejuxtaposrtionof the past and thepresent, the combinat onof the [aidback ways ofthe tocals amid the pushof indusiria tisation - thesecome together to createa living masterpiece sountike that of a.y otherAsian cit es.

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The burst of colours, tastesand sounds,

the combination of thelqidbackways of the locals amid thepush ofindustrialisation - these

come together to create alivingmasterpiece so unlike that ofanv other Asian cihes.

aL

desned iime iryo, do not plan

ihe Otd O!arte.. also knownas the A.cient Ouader and 36StreG is sited between thenorthern shore of Hoan KlemLake. the walls of the ancientCitadeland lhe tevees thalprot{t the city rrom the Red

The 36 tiltte streets m theOuader are each named for a

commodity once etd by attthe buslnesses on that slree!streets are named forlewetleryrans nrrrage ilems chickensand even coffns lhat were oncesotd on ihem th s s why ihenames and sights along theslreets change very slrddenlyas you round a corner orcrossan niersection As you exptoreon foot. you w tl happenupon entire btocks oftaitors.tinsmths papergoodsand

One ol the more famousstreets is Hang Ouat. wth its

shops setting an unendingar:y of tacquered wiod bowisdecorative p eces, pr:iurerrames and cancile sicks Nlanyof these ilems are elaboratew!h rinely wrought deia lsn Hanoi you can sttLspothand painied vers ons oi thesearticles bul these folkcraft w tt

soon be replaced w ih faciorymade stock - very much llkethe ltems ihal yo! get nHoCh Minh Cty Hang Gai sanother wetlknown slreet thatboasts some of Hanois fnesisltl shops You can purchaseacustom made sLk Ao Da rromthese sitk houses but do beslie to give the ta tor at teastore io two days 1o comptelesew ng the natonalcostume

Ihere s no betlerway toget up ctose and pe.sonatto the ciiy than io exptore onfoot Those whose stomachschurn at the thought oflositng wth crowds can optfor a locatcycto Negot atea one'way or return fare in

advance a one way irip islsualtyvND 20 0oo but thereare no hard and lasi rutes thal

witt prevst you from secunng

For frst time vis torsremember this gotden r!]te

Pay no atlention to theilaffc signals because noorE etse d@s Just kepmovng The besi way iocross busy inte6ections isto catmty walk right nlo thelnsislent and noisy maze ofmotorbikes Matuel at ihe waythe motorbikes swarm easityaround you and thrcwyourhead back taugh and enjoy

Hanoi is very compact and thecity s mosi nterestlng placejare allw th n a stones throwof each other A v6it io Ho ChlMinhs rvausoteum is a must-

do Peopte stad qleueing upfrom 7am The Maueleumsta)s open lnlit 10 3oam in theslmmerand 1100am in thewinter so do aniw early 10

As you exit on ihe side ofthe buitdinq. took for the omateyeltow fornrer GovemolsPaLace. whlch also races Ba

D nh Square Aithough notopen lo the pubtic. itisapoLgmni contrasl to Ho Chl

Minhs House on Slitts whlchsts atong a iiny take in lhew@ded park behlnd TheOne P ttar Pagoda is about50 meires away This tittlearchitecturat curiosity gets isname because the shrine s tsalop a single massire pedestat

The Ho Chil.4 nh Museuni

is Vieinam's r.ost importantcontemporary archite.lLrralachievement Opened to thepubtic in 1990 theelhibits.reakin to Hos huge personatguidebook To get away frcmthe c tys daity busite you canescape lo Van f.1ieu ffempteof Lilerature) or Ouoc T! G am(Nationat Unive6ily) Hi.ldenfrom the hlmming r.elropolisbehi'rd h9h stonewatts anda.cient Frang panilrees thesetwo structures house sor.e ofVeinams mosl magnifcentreLg ous strlctures and

The.apital hns recenttyrrnveited yet anorher stunn nghistor calsighl - the HanoiCtadet Localed n the headoithe cty. rght by Ba Dinh

The Old Qtarter, alsoknown as the \ttt t, til

1_)ilr,r/r't /ltirl i() \l1r'! i\,is sitedbetween the

northern shore of HoanKiem Lake, the walk of the

anaent Citadel and thelevees that protect the city

fromthe Red Rwer.

a.

TRAVEL

You can easily exend )\)nrtrip by choosing to visjt theawe-inspiring LINESCO WorldHcritagc accredited HalongBay or its more idyllic butequally spec'tiorlar.ousin.

HALONG BAYHalong m€ans'des(tndingdEson" and aE enormousbeast is said to harE car€eredinro lhe s€a at this point,

cuiting the fantastic bayfrom rccks as it lhEshed itsway into rhe depths. Pcopletraditionally visn Helong Bayfrom Halong Cjry or Cat tsa.

Sawy travelieN d@se tobook oDcnay bal iours

Wc rccoDend that you

Ptrchase an ovemight boartour ticket from a localtouragenry in Ilanoi. Your tourvendorwill pick you up lrom

your hotel and drop you arHalong City. Yo board yourboar Iiom Halong Ciry andsPend the niSht on whar is

As therc is no seafront.oastal are.. hosr ofihesightsec'lg takes place whenyou travelinto the bay itsellon rhcjunk, you can slropat a lo.al market on thebay, pick your livc scatoodand watch your cat.h being

prcfarcd for hrrch by rhe.he15.n rh.junk \bu.anaho.hoosc ro l3]rk arcundthe bly i, Lhe afternq)nNI{nl ofrI. jL'nk oNraroBvlll fro\1dc tur d[icropri.nr: a f r.f.riTd sc:,lo.dsfr.ad or a .@king (la$ ibrvnroF iDr.rsr.d to rty drrhands rt VretD:mese.!isine.Yo1lwil1do.k ar a qri.rs..lon ofrhe biy io rc1irclor ihe nighl wah. up ro ihc

5mell orfresh VletD!meie.xprc$o dr. n.xf lnornlnSand go tor a rcuDd olrar qi ar

n1n,rn. Y.nr to!r oltnt biy.onntruci lnrJ lridday

l:rou do llin toopt forthe ovcrnight I tr nl loirr,rcmrmbe. to inform yourhotcl iD advar.c rlal vouwill Dol rcqurc: roon forrhar pafiicular njglt. Also sotill someonc iD the (ouDtryknows yoLrr whereebo!ts.

TAM COCT:n Co( lilerally means three(rves. The highljght ofthisr.ip n an enchanting boatfide up the Ngo Dong Rive.thlough thc epon) nrouslhree Gvrs. To state rh.tftm Coc n hea!.nly

'! an

As you si! oD a m\rbo.rl andglide befi{rcn golden ficldsofrkc, you r ly 9.1 to se€

rhe daily lrves ofthclocaLs uf

close. MouDliin goais peer aryou ftom precriolts posidonson the rc.k ibmatiotrs,won]en rcw lirch .rnd-resintubs vhrlc mcn chcck c,,their ie scedlings and collcclsnarls. thc .nraordinarysercnity aDd b.aury of tlrellacc wil! lcalc you wjshingthat tiDe would conc toacomPlclc src! $ th:rt GDyo'rr properly savour tho

TRAVEI-

:ri::l: !1.:L:.,t t:r ih!. !rtq /r,

r,1nL)r!t.t!|Lr:..1

Sqlr'e |re \Y"ro,ld r'le L;get5teil.tide. ! lln.o !be..t L.Dl:e. et .s,-':tu..renLr.nlc Ln poLlltar llu lebook! For h lioryl,,.f! rEeie:LrLeii! t. !+ rn.l lr!:rl!oapL-!::art.pot lor i !.jrk r'ilhptc,ily oi p..r.,iul+,crr fr.(T re e.tri rc. ! nlt Furr,e!feii- t slult-.norn.l ih:.7rel to.r C.1a-r F.rq ToJrer

..,1.:.9 Dr-.! St,-.el The!L '.r.e! hu..re !.,/ ltrip.rt5o q.i.r, !ir oiloru,ri[ r]g

sr@! lrc! tiin to, !t

rlro!_.rh rol I t e;1' !i1!.r!-r.rihi.!n c..rr. Fo:in(i4r lLe 15lr hG'r.l trfe nI ar3i Sor.e.T you ircst\., i1

r...(.r.i o.s u lllndoubtedt,..nre ,.-!n ,ou ta,e i ore totlo r-our rirotl f r.un.l F.13.fr,.r lnkf ai slnr + Jt rnd.lrrr

rou can :!i anc leel !|tr,

|).ft.l iociLLni lr en.l! rr.lf.r.r Li qather ..r i.oelier .:fte,,!'k role ! tcll 'r il.!ro,.n',oil.l ..JDtei po: ng lortrre,liedd h.l Phorogrrpr,5 ljrtl]art!irrLes in t]lo3r.!: !.ou;t.f.erenronles rn Drc.lre:! q6!p:oI nren.l:!i.er.q by tri. til.E!to..rL!rrr'ror thlir a. t!,!ol,o!t! i.d sco !s.I thcrloE t! Dkcl 5 .9 litr, q

liith e!er, st.p a 1:r:sia,.i |nfoL{ls 1rd t 3

cof n.n to lee lrrlr.:r!r!.le.lt.r:i !p.l pr!!.9 tolrke n tre 'rL,n.c, .ath.l.o ent ifd !a,,our rrre lo.nlfiv.L ' [r!oy tlre !cen!r].1l rq lnke i orr, \reltern ltyt-a.ofee an.l ce c,eam r.n

iL

re.o.rre, r.l.n !. 5 i.tr r.ruto pir,rge ir tr Lrolr r..i nr-d rio!, irlh the tocaLLeal.0 1F VeLnanr4e.h ior-.n;rur.ii!. io.!t poPr.tei..r/o!r Lrrry l.bout \r'ND 7 00ol

Nloc 5.n P:(od. !1.o.:f..1::t:l hi no lh.rn {rrd.fll).l.rl! Tr\, ol:i 5'. !Lru.lLr.:n Ur..orFler cl.i.-c ba.lto:25 tlr.ugh nro:t ol n/lr.n

,!. leevr5 e the. Dl,rttor14.or:rL!cied . lrle1!1'l.e.il / Tl c>rr.l s !.r ,

. I un , ro it r' r..trl.!

Jrilrl,icl!,tr bul icr ^tcrcrt i!propt.r rlro t.!-e,.'rge t.rih-..1!,ere r5!r.,.i|e,rrrt/ capl!r+.ia irii. Drr, ri!.h.r:k.r. nth.P., lr, .)lIte it.t:]e o'.,.n:.."! heF.gqr u1., rmon! tfe i. (.,.!

r'<r J:. Ure :1,r. cL fr..jNgoc 5.. Prllo.ltr i!:l'e J, ne'p!pp.t! the:t e s.en.s nrnrv.trnn'ii,. larc i.it h ::tor ;l"ctLro ng an..nl balllc!)r,! cdborJl.-rr irL,ro,n,.{l ir/col.r l! t tr..!e.e.l o!DD.t! or. rdoor Z.,n.l rccornPnn.:ol)t tri.l 1..r1 ! .l nime\p iol[nnr. T.i[.]! lr! tr..,.renrn_.]p!.lor min.iABiiheaD rid5ilL.ul.!rl), n ihr f,:i r.r.(l

lrr.. in: ir! prorC t!.tieih!, til.e:r'.! f lher:Jr.e1l,rc r.lrqlr.ltE th!'r r.l) lr1'j'.Ln'rl!ir l.!( ior ili! (tr 5liicnr.l.rnt/ yitl fle.nrl!,r.:r! !i.,!but aL:. Jfi r,,o!e i.. uthirpr.,ir.+, i. ! irh..1 Th.\,tre, n.. r'omE r! .lh,arofe. rg!.i1.,.;tl3r4 lrcthin outit ;nd or-r rLL/ \tr,irtr Lr.l, r! {r prcr.nlrt o,r 5

rr.re thJn coiE.!:te.l 1!r b.,

A.l.l ng t. '.h-ri Hnno.

6 pncf(l r th 'ru:.! nihofurnent: ..n.! re(uLrants.nd rin.i nq rcles ltoc:ti..l'!e!t.rn ityleilr ;id the.lyofler. !-" ytln! th,il ,!,LLrirl.e

t.ur !Lrt ccf!.r i rn rrd

Mc!t tr. retle,: ,pe.il:r.un.l|ro 10 ir,!dnie lolr nllthe.ily ll.i.,rre. toL rt) r:r elin. I rth!!r-, lhr:tir rn,r!o t,rt.r'r.

Il

LOCALFARE: Ifi{ll 1} i'l ii:', ll$rSneak with us into the bestjoints known mostty bythe tocats (you might spot severaladventurous tourists al these outlets) and dive into the iocatmust-try street snacks.

These ptaces showcase the best ofHanoifare.

PHO BOA iradn oMl dish cooprising tight b.otlllinguire-shaped rice noodtes and beefPho 10 in Hanois Otd Ouarter is a cosy

to.at haunt A wett-respected purueyor itskitchen windows are corstantly foggedup by steam and bubbting slck A bowtof lhis great stutr, costng aroundVND

40 ooo to 50 0oo, is best eaten wittlhandfuts of chilli, beah sproots and 6 good

squeeze of time.

BUN CHAcritted fatty pork and rcodtes seNedwith herb dipping sauces on lhe side

There is no wate.ed-down heatlhyvelsion - take it like the tocats or take a

hikel Acknowledged by Locats as the realbun cho. 1 Hang Manh 228 Ta Hien is anunpreientious joirt. Take a seat and b!r)cho is automatiQtly serued as ihe only

dish on the menu. Expecl to payVND

50 ooo to 60.000 perpax.

NEM CUA BElf you tove with nem ro, Viehamesespring rolld. you wittbe speltbound

by ,em .rd b€ (crab spring roLls).

Grourd crab mdi 6nd crab tile ienpork. egg white kohtEbi.carot earmushrooms. bean sprout ice paperandve.micetti 1Hang Ma.h 22B ra

Hien also serves nem c.ro be Ai VND

50 0oo per set. nem cuo be is theperfect s de dish to bun cho

BAP XAOc@ked in two l(ays -with driedshrimp.scaUion. and butter or just scattion witholt - this is a must"try as Hanoi b,o6tsfresh white gtutinous corn whicn whe.frjed, is perfect with cotd beerlEasily

avaiLabte on the street. watk away ir theprice is too hiqh Locals pavVND 5,ooo,but visitors can exp&t io pay between

VND 20 ooo to 4o,ooo fyouarenolupforba€aining.

BUN BO NAM BOThis str{ried beef vermicetti dish iseteganttysimple. Fish sauce is used

foi ftavour accompanied by €w. freshvegetabtes. fried onions. roasied

peanuts and b6n sprouts, with a shout-out for those big on raw greens 67 Hang

Dieu and 49 Hang Bun are the go-toaddresses, and Like oiher speciatty stails,there s m need l. order A howl .6ct<

vND60,ooo

CHAOAstausetdom caries more than oneversion ofthls vaiety of rice ponidqe

and most statls speciaLise leg. .hoo bo(beef poridge) .hoo90 (chicken withginger poftid96)..hoo lorg (porrdge

w,th po enlla ts and congeledbLood). Deide in advancewhat type

of meat you prefer Chao Dai Loan uo2serues tantastic chdo bo ancl choo 90,

paired with fne teas