718 Marble Marquetry set (necklace, earrings and ring) by Harry Winston in platinum set with blue sapphires and diamonds; New York Collection. POA.

www.harrywinston.com

THE HAUTEJOAILLERIEREPORT SUMMER 2019 PART IV

This Part IV, the last chapter of my post-Par-is Couture 2019 report completes the jour-ney that began with PART I a month ago. It is still an alphabetical review of the col-lections, starting with Piaget and ending in style with Van Cleef & Arpels.

This high jewellery season has been partic-ularly intense with presentations from all the familiar high jewellers plus the launch of not one, but three brand new high jew-ellery houses (the most anticipated being Hortus Deliciarum, GUCCI’s first high jew-ellery collection). Overall this made for a pretty sizzling season with many different creative approaches. The large number of viewed collections also helped me identify a few ‘trends’, if such could be said to exist in the rarefied world of high jewellery. It is true that ‘trend’ and ‘high jewellery’ are not usu-ally associated since the latter is precisely the sector where anything can happen. That said here are a few ideas, common grounds between collections that point to a shared vision of experimental excellence.

Rising Star Ring by Piaget in 18K white gold set with one oval-cut fancy vivid

yellow diamond (approx. 2.77cts), 46 marquise-cut diamonds (approx.

5.02cts) and 34 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.87ct); Play of Lights,

Golden Oasis. POA.

www.piaget.com

Giardino Transformable Sautoir by Van Cleef & Arpels in 18K white and rose gold set with one 81.07-carats carved emerald from Colombia, sapphire beads from Burma (451cts), emeralds, sapphires and diamonds; Romeo & Juliet. POA.

www.vancleefarpels.com

For a start, there is a definite return of the brooch, as most collections have re-in-troduced them and sometimes in large numbers (e.g. MIKIMOTO’s delightful op-tions from Jardins Mystérieux). There is also the move towards pairing orna-mental stones with precious gems (per-fectly highlighted as the core concept of Magnitude by CARTIER and covered in my Haute Joaillerie Report Part I). Then the appearance of a new category that I will call ‘high jewelled accessories’: com-plementing high jewellery watches, now come high jewellery glasses (MESSIKA, FRANCIS DE LARA), a divine headband (CHANEL), a delicate necklace that is a scarf (MELLERIO) and the ultimate style-as-you-wish accessory, the Jack Box by BOUCHERON (see full review of the Paris, vu du 26 collection in a separate published article that includes an interview of Claire Choisne).

Also noticeable is that particular ways of gem setting have been applied to fit the idea that some gems should not be readily ac-cessed, but rather offered in a case. Gems seized in grids (Threads by GRAFF), caged (LOUIS VUITTON in Riders of the Knights), boxed (Tiffany Jewel Box – TIFFANY’s new Blue Book) or nestled (Les Ciels de Chaumet - see full review of the collection in a sepa-rate published article that includes an inter-view of Jean-Marc Mansvelt).

Lastly, a ‘trend’ that only high jewellery could pull off so well. It is all about feel-ing like Cleopatra with wide collar necklac-es that spread like fans around the neckline. Dripping with gemstones, these jewels are not for the fainthearted (look at the Bulgari necklace that is the cover image of my Haute Joaillerie Report Part I to get an idea; there are also beautiful iterations found in the new collections of DAVID MORRIS, BOUCHERON, CARTIER and DE BEERS).

Making-of the Fiori Bracelet by Van Cleef & Arpels in 18K white gold set with two pear-shaped aquamarines (50.87 and 50.50cts), sapphires, emeralds, black spinels and diamonds; Romeo & Juliet. POA.

www.vancleefarpels.com

The birth place of established high jewellery houses is often embedded in their DNA all the more so as these places have often subsequent-ly become the beating heart epicentre of high jewellery in capital cities. It is then natural that these same houses occasionally remind us of their origins through their collections. Such is the strong connection between Harry Winston and New York City that the new collection of the American high jeweller is entirely dedicat-ed to the City That Never Sleeps. The New York

Collection peruses the east coast city through the prism of Mr Winston’s life – “from the brown-stones of his birthplace on the Upper West Side, to the organic colour palette and geometry of Central Park, to the City Lights of the Manhattan skyline, to the striking architecture of its famous Cathedrals, to bustling throughways, and his iconic Fifth Avenue Flagship Salon on 718 Fifth Avenue”, the team says – with unique creations within nine sub-collections, each celebrating a modern interpretation of the enduring legacy

www.harrywinston.com

718 Emerald Vitrine Earrings in 18K yellow gold and platinum set with emerald-cut emeralds, marquise-, round brilliant- and tapered-cut diamonds; New York Collection. POA.

718 Chandelier Ring in platinum set with marquise-cut diamonds; New York Collection. POA.

www.harrywinston.com

and symbiotic connection to the House’s roots. ‘718 Chandelier’ evokes the crystal garlands that ornament the stately candelabras of Harry Winston’s main salon thanks to clusters of mar-quise-, round- and pear-cut white diamonds; ‘718 Emerald Vitrine’, while paying homage to the octagonal display windows of the boutique, also elevates the Harry Winston emblem with emerald-cut emeralds. Lastly (when it comes to evoking the flagship store), there is ‘718 Marble Marquetry’ (our cover image), a dazzling blue sapphire and white diamond parure that cele-brates again the octagonal cut as well as the patterns of the marble flooring.

718 Chandelier Necklace in platinum set with marquise-, pear- and round brilliant-cut diamonds; New York Collection. POA.

www.harrywinston.com

‘Fifth Avenue’ is almost a full collection on its own with five sub-themes, each with a plethora of divine high jewels. After all, there should be no limit in order to properly pay homage to one of the world’s most famous avenues. Besides, the geography of the Fifth Avenue is what has inspired Harry Winston and more precisely by focusing on the iconic monuments or build-ings that are erected along its stretch. From the Greenwich Village archway – Washington Square Arch – to the Metropolitan Museum of Art, the five landmarks have been majestical-ly interpreted with umpteen white diamonds in various cuts, on their own or paired with the most exquisite pearls, rubies or sapphires.

Fifth Avenue Earrings in platinum set with pear-shaped rubies and pair-, round brilliant- and briolette-cut diamonds; New York Collection. POA.

Fifth Avenue Draperie Necklace in white gold set with pearls and diamonds; New York Collection. POA.

Fifth Avenue Drapery Ring in platinum set with one emerald-cut sapphire and diamonds; New York Collection. POA.

The ‘Brownstone’ series is a tribute to the beautiful brownstones of the Upper West Side where Harry Winston was born; baguette-cut, round brilliant- and marquise-shaped diamonds, accented by colourful square-cut gemstones, are artfully arranged in a geometric mo-tif that recalls the stately architecture of Manhattan. ‘Cathedral’ is inspired by St Patrick’s Cathedral that is direct-ly across from Harry’s first location, as Harry Winston, Inc at 7 East 51st Street. The neckpiece is a striking piéce de ré-sistance with its five pear-shaped emer-alds set around an inverted alcove shape that references the cathedral’s façade. We see a bird’s eye view effect in the ‘Central Park Mosaic theme’, reflecting the vast green expanse that is Central Park, best represented in the bracelet – an intricate tapestry of emerald (the greenery) and sapphires (the water fea-tures). New York, the city that never sleeps, is also well known for its 24/7 il-luminations, the ‘City Lights’. This natu-rally forms the most colourful set of the collection with the cardinal shades be-ing red, blue, green, yellow and white.

www.harrywinston.comCentral Park Mosaic Bracelet in platinum set with emeralds, sapphires and diamonds; New York Collection. POA.

Cathedral Necklace in platinum and yellow gold set with emeralds and diamonds; New York Collection. POA.

City Lights Pendant Earrings in platinum and yellow gold set with emeralds, rubies and sapphires; New York Collection. POA.

“Throughout the early 1900s, cast-iron eagles adorned many New York City buildings, in-cluding the original Grand Central Depot – the city’s famed transportation hub – as a sym-bol of growth, flight and movement”, and so the Eagle sub-series quite dramatically inter-prets the motif with a pairing of colourless and fancy yellow diamonds. In the neckpiece,

symmetrical wings are made of marquise-cut diamonds with a pear-shaped yellow marvel dangling from their centre. Same goes for the earrings whose diamond wings seem to flame and would perfectly suit the god Hermes’s hel-met. The essence of an eagle is to be found in the majesty of these compositions, yet they are also graceful, almost swan-like.

Eagle Ring in platinum and yellow gold set with colourless and yellow diamonds; New York Collection. POA.

Eagle Earrings in platinum and yellow gold set with colourless and yellow diamonds; New York Collection. POA.

Eagle Necklace in platinum and yellow gold set with colourless and yellow diamonds; New York Collection. POA.

www.harrywinston.com

You can count on Piaget to invite us on a sun-drenched journey. This time it is set in a not-so-inhospitable desert, one that hides a resplendent hidden place. It is Golden Oasis, Piaget’s latest collection. Via three chapters that explore the making of the oasis, we are immersed in the beauty of an untouched Eden.

Play of Light (finds inspiration from the infinite skies above the rolling desert. From the sun flares of the day to the star-studded night sky, a dance

of celestial radiance is recreated through shim-mering gemstones and gold); Desert Minerals (Desert Minerals celebrates the purity of raw life, portrayed through a palette of intense colours and intricate shapes. Desert Minerals speaks of the scenery’s smooth, sun-soaked rocks as well as the rippling crystal pools that quench the earth) and Native Bloom (honours the nuanc-es of nature’s perfect design, drawing energy from the desert flora that thrive in the face of

Diamond Veil Ring in 18K white gold set with one oval-cut blue sapphire from Madagascar (approx. 13.15cts) and 72 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 6.15cts); Desert Minerals, Golden Oasis. POA.

Diamond Veil Earrings in 18K white gold set with 2 pear-shaped blue sapphires (approx. 1.40cts and 1.40cts), 4 round-cut blue sapphires (approx. 0.41ct), 2 pear-shaped diamonds (approx. 1.30cts) and 66 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 4cts); Desert Minerals, Golden Oasis. POA.

www.piaget.com

adversity. These are the jewels of the desert, in all their stunning, blooming glory). We welcome all of Piaget’s key design elements that enable the story to unfold. Be it the superb goldwork (i.e. ‘Palace Decor’ on the Blue Waterfall watch), the

extensive use of the marquise cut, and the cel-ebration of colours through carefully selected gemstones. Let’s look at the latter, which is in-dicative of Piaget’s efforts to always source ex-quisite gems that have an intense colouration.

Blue Waterfall Necklace in 18K white gold set with one cushion-cut blue sapphire from Madagascar (approx. 14.61cts), 33 marquise-cut blue sapphires (approx. 9.02cts), 170 round-cut blue sapphires (approx. 21.25cts), 21 marquise-cut diamonds (approx. 3.65cts) and 61 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 6.61cts); transformable into necklace without dangling part; Desert Minerals, Golden Oasis. POA.

www.piaget.com

www.piaget.com

Vegetal Laces Watch in 18K white gold set with 240 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 6.55cts) and 14 marquise-cut malachite (approx. 6.10cts); white mother-of-pearl dial and 56P quartz movement; Native Bloom, Golden Oasis. POA.

Vegetal Laces Earcuff in 18K white gold set with one pear-shaped emerald from Colombia (approx. 1.45cts), 12 marquise-cut emeralds (approx. 2.12cts), 15 marquise-cut diamonds (approx. 4.25cts) and 12 marquise-cut diamonds (approx. 0.28ct); Native Bloom, Golden Oasis. POA.

Luxuriant Oasis Necklace in 18K platinum set with one pear-shaped diamond (approx. 3.01cts), 177 marquise-cut emeralds (approx. 48.44cts) and 172 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 7.17cts); unique creation; transformable into one pendant with diamond; Native Bloom, Golden Oasis. POA.

Throughout Golden Oasis, colours abound thanks to the selection of the usual cardinal gemstones (rubies from Mozambique, deep blue sapphires from Madagascar, white and Fancy Vivid yel-low diamonds, and dense green em-eralds), and the introduction of more unconventional (for Piaget) semi-pre-cious stones (e.g. fiery spessartite gar-nets). The creative stance is to almost always accompany these strongly co-loured gems with white diamonds, in a bid to form a blank canvas that support their chromatic intensity. In addition, this season more pearls have been used and for the same effect. White or golden, they are a chic option for supporting ra-re stones as seen in the fluid Irresistible Attraction neckpiece, where two strands of Akoya pearls flow in and out of a di-amond-paved inlet made of dark ochre spessartite garnets. Lastly, when the co-lour palette veers to multi-colours, we land in safe territory with Piaget’s sig-nature colour associations that are gold, white and pink or/and red. A successful combo that is evocative of sunsets.

Irresistible Attraction Ring in 18K white gold set with one cushion-cut spessartite garnet (approx. 7.61cts) and 70 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 1.49cts); unique colour creation; Desert Minerals, Golden Oasis. POA.

Irresistible Attraction Earrings in 18K white gold set with 164 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 2.94cts), spessartite garnets and 68 Akoya white pearls; Desert Minerals, Golden Oasis. POA.

Irresistible Attraction Necklace in 18K white gold set with 2 cushion-cut spessartite garnets (approx. 9.25cts and 4.43cts), 2 round-cut spessartite garnets (approx. 0.60ct), 1 pear-shaped diamond (approx. 0.38ct), 243 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 6.25cts) and 126 Akoya white pearls; unique colour creation; Desert Minerals, Golden Oasis. POA.

www.piaget.com

www.pomellato.com

The pairing of ornamental stones and precious gems is once again celebrated this season and this time by Pomellato with the Armonie Minerali collection of one-of-a-kind rings that will be fully unveiled in November. The 38 unique rings and pendants are pairing rare hard stones together, most of which feature natu-ral patterns, with a paving of precious gems that serves as linear border (or horizon) bind-ing the two halves in the centre. The associ-ations are primarily based on colour coordi-nation, so as to match the colour tones or to trigger an artful colour clash. Each hard stone has also been cut into smooth cabochons that when assembled form a full cabochon oval, a brand new hybrid mineral. And this is where the core concept of Armonie Minerali resides: the interaction between man and nature in order to create a new beauty. “The ancient patterns formed inside stones millions of years ago” are what Vincenzo Castaldo, Pomellato Creative Director, sources to then marry these ‘myste-rious’ designs with more uniform stones. That vision is the man-made touch.

I have had the chance to see a preview of the 38 pieces and they are all uniquely superb and sophisticated. So, the only way it will possible for you to choose your ring or pendant will be by following your heart and colour preference.

‘Penelope’s Dream’ Pomellato Armonie Minerali ring in rose gold set with lapis lazuli, emeralds and chrysocolla. POA.

Eight gorgeous rings…ten fingers…Phew! Sigh of relief. The majority of rings have in-deed been presented by Reza during Paris Couture week, with an emphasis on a sig-nature style, the toi & moi ring that French high jewellery revels in re-interpreting sea-son after season. In that respect, the twist is not only in the design or choice of gem-stones, but also in the name of the piece. Take the ‘Vous & Moi’ rings, where the more deferential ‘vous’ replaces the traditional and more casual ‘tu’. Two heart-shaped ra-re gems (be it a Colombian minor oil emer-ald and a Fancy Intense Yellow diamond or an unheated Burmese ruby and a D-IF dia-mond) face each other as in conversation. There is a slight bent in the band nicely coil-ing around one’s finger.

The Lyhan ring is more a double ring in one than a toi & moi design, with the two large stones facing upwards as royal comrades. Of course, one who can master a toi & moi ring can certainly ace a cocktail ring. And so, come four jaw dropping designs in that category: the Ayli (unheated Burmese ru-by), La Chose (unheated East African ru-by), the Dôme (unheated Ceylon sapphire) and the Turban (moderate oil Zambian em-erald) rings. Each is a study in volumes, or-nate shoulders and shanks.

www.alexandrereza.com Bague A ‘Vous et Moi’ Ring in 18K white gold set with an unheated Burmese heart-shaped ruby weighing 2.56 carats and a heart-shaped D-IF diamond weighing 2.28 carats. POA.

‘Vous et Moi’ Heart Emerald Ring in platinum set with one Colombian heart-shaped emerald (min. oil) weighing 0.87 carat and a Fancy Intense Yellow heart-shaped diamond weighing 1.19 carats. POA.

Lyhan Emerald and Sapphire Ring in 18K white gold set with one Colombian cushion emerald (mod. oil) weighing 5.56 carats, and one unheated Burmese cushion sapphire weighing 7.51 carats. POA.

Turban Emerald Ring in 18K white gold set with one oval-cut, mod. oil Zambian emerald weighing 6.93 carats, 48 baguette-shaped diamonds for 5.85 carats. POA.

This is not to say that other product cate-gories are under-represented. On the con-trary, earrings being also a Reza forte. After parading rubies one season, turquoises an-other, now the Farandoles earrings come in a version with faceted lapis lazuli beads. A ‘farandole’ is an open-chain dance that cele-brates the joy of being together as a group, and the same exhilaration flows out of the Reza earrings. The hard stone beads form a circle and it looks as though the trio of brilliant-cut diamonds between each one of them is the lapis holding hands. The Grappes Rubies & Diamonds earrings are an entire-ly different marvel; the geometry of em-erald-cut and brilliant-cut white diamonds crowning a loose cascade of old mine ruby pebbles…with the extra advantage of being able to detach the ruby part so as to enjoy the chicness of the diamonds on their own, as studs. As prime high jewellers, Reza have a particular approach in the business. It is in-deed evident that while proposing only high quality gems, they strive to keep their cre-ations highly wearable for any occasion.

www.alexandrereza.comFarandoles Lapis Earrings in 18K white gold set with 18 faceted lapis lazuli beads weighing 34.95 carats and 70 brilliants weighing 5.43 carats. POA.

Ayli Ruby Ring in 18K white gold set with an unheated oval-shaped Burmese ruby weighing 4.35 carats and 38 tapered-cut diamonds weighing 5.32 carats. POA.

Dôme Ring in 18K white gold set with one unheated Ceylon cabochon sapphire weighing 10.56 carats, 11 cabochon rubies weighing 1.15 carats and 29 brilliants weighing 0.55 carat. POA.

Grappes Rubies & Diamonds Earrings in 18K rose gold set with 6 emerald-cut diamonds (E-G colour, IF- VS1, VVS2) weighing 7.52 carats, 8 brilliants weighing 0.71 carat and 22 pebble rubies weighing 43.19 carats. POA.

It had to be seen to be believed. A re-cord-breaking collection featuring the largest alexandrite gem unveiled to date of 69.37 carats and certificated by a Gübelin report stating its Russian ori-gin as well as its colour change from blu-ish-green to reddish-purple. Part of the Rubeus Imperial Alexandrite Collection by Rubeus Milano, this unbelievably rare stone is set in a dazzling neckpiece that is completed by a pair of earrings and ring (each also set with a central Alexandrite). But first let’s hear from the Rubeus team about this very special stone: “These alex-andrite gemstones are among the 10 rar-est, most sought after and most expensive in the world. The alexandrite discovered in the Urals in 1830, and named as a tribute to the future Tsar Alexander II, is a variety of chrysoberyl with the unique feature of its bluish-green colour in daylight which, through a wide range of colours, turns in-to a reddish-purple or even violet in incan-descent light. The stone is sublime through this colour variation, which increases ac-cording to the density of the stone and the presence of inclusions that hold the secret of the gem’s authenticity, further adding to its value.”

Important Necklace (set with one 69.37-carat alexandrite) and Earrings (set with two alexandrites) and both further set with rock crystal, diamonds, steel grey or red spinels, ice-blue or green sapphires, tanzanites, and polished black titanium with a mirror effect; Rubeus Imperial Alexandrite Collection. POA.

www.rubeusmilano.com

This veritable geological wonder that has now been magnified by the work of two high jewellery designers – Frédéric Mané and Jothi-Seroj – who were commissioned by Viktor Bondarenko, a renowned collec-tor and patron of the arts, and Nataliya Bondarenko, co-founders of the Rubeus brand. The collection is indeed split into two parures (one with a striking stalactite effect – the Imperial set; the other, a more abstract floral set – the Eternal set). The two sets with 5 central gems of different sizes for a total of 137.57 carats make up the Imperial collection. In addition, there are 13 alexandrites on the bracelet, 5 on the earrings and 3 on the ring by way of tribute to the famous Fibonacci sequence which represents the best approximation of the Golden Mean, of perfection in art. In other words, this collection is unique in the world and includes 47 alexandrite gemstones that are exceptional in size and quality, ranging from 2.12 to 69.37 carats. Although different, the two sets share the same powerful image. They both appear futuristic, yet at their heart is an homage to planet earth and the formation of min-erals, for we have to thank the grand forc-es of nature for having birthed and nur-tured such a treasure.

Ring and Necklace both set with alexandrites, rock crystal, diamonds, steel grey or red spinels, ice-blue or green sapphires, tanzanites, and polished black titanium with a mirror effect; Rubeus Imperial Alexandrite Collection. POA.

www.rubeusmilano.com

Same time of the year, same salon at the Ritz, lovely novelties and a renewed sense of plea-sure. Attending Suzanne Syz’s presentation is now a fixed part of the high jewellery calendar, yet it always feels fresh and surprising. What whimsical ideas has Syz explored this time? What playful iteration has she concocted? For one, she has stepped up her experimentation with aluminium as seen in the ‘Crush for you’ cuff, which is literally…crushed. But for the lit-tle diamonds that pepper the metal, the ban-gle could pass for a discarded love letter draft. Aluminium is not only used for special effects, it also appears as the satiny robe of a pink cocktail ring, ‘La vie en rose’ ring. Earrings, and more precisely pendant earrings, are back in force from the playful (e.g. the Campbell’s tomato soup can earrings that do not belong in a pantry) to the most stylish, like the red

spinel cabochon and diamond lovelies that evoke ripe berries. What is delightful is that Syz never limits herself to one colour scheme, so that earrings, for instance, come in a wide range of shades (from saturated to soft). In the latter case, there is the sheen of teal bluish grey titanium against the fresh blue of carved turquoises or the multi-colour pastel array of oval semi-precious stones for two pairs of ex-quisite earrings. This soft-hued line-up is of course complemented by a magnificent cuff, the ‘Arctic Ice Bangle’, where Paraiba tour-maline cabochons poke out from a ceramic dome. Oval-shaped marks also dot the sur-face and one can wonder if these are the ear-ly stages of a Paraiba hatching.

As you can see, each piece is open to wild suppositions and one is urged to use his/her imagination.

www.suzannesyz.ch

La vie en rose Ring in 18K pink gold and aluminium set with one purplish-pink cushion-shaped tourmaline and 60 diamonds (0.61ct). POA.

Crush for you Cuff in 18K pink gold and aluminium set with 24 diamonds (1.51cts). POA.

Earrings in 18K white gold set with red spinel cabochons and

diamonds. POA.

Arctic Ice Bangle in 18K pink and white gold,

silver and ceramic set with 12 Mozambican

Paraiba cabochon tourmalines (47.87cts),

and 182 diamonds (2.97cts). POA.

The wizard of summer Earrings in 18K pink and white gold, titanium,

set with two engraved pear-shaped turquoises (76.20cts), and

38 diamonds (0.66ct). POA.

Summertime Earrings in 18K pink gold and titanium set with two oval-shaped aquamarines (8.88cts), two oval-shaped green beryls (9.36cts), two oval-shaped morganites (8.85cts), and 16 diamonds. POA.

www.suzannesyz.ch

There is a French saying ‘Aprés la pluie, le beau temps’ (i.e. there is always light at the end of the tunnel), which seems to aptly apply to Sylvie Corbelin’s work. Each of her creations has in-deed the ability to clear one’s mind. In previ-ous reviews, I have drawn attention to their day-dreaming dimension and of course it is still prevalent. So much so in fact that I be-lieve that one should read out loud the names of the renditions before succumbing to their magic. The ‘Aux Portes du Ciel’ ring (heav-en’s doorstep), the ‘Je t’aime un peu, beau-coup’ pendant necklace (love me, love me

not) or the ‘Rêverie crystalline’ earrings (crys-talline reverie)…all point to medieval ballads and Baudelaire poems, and while you spell out each title, your visual appreciation of the piec-es widens. ‘Medieval’ is a befitting description when it comes to the ‘Anne de Bretagne’ pen-dant, whose central component is an antique coin (whose two sides are shows in the pho-tograph below – Anne de Bretagne and on the reverse Louis XII). It is framed by a bejewelled snake from which a baroque pearl hangs. If you were told that this neckpiece sits in a museum, you would believe it.

www.sylvie-corbelin.com

Anne de Bretagne pendant Necklace (pendant shown on its own – front and back) in yellow gold and silver set with one historical medallion in cast iron (Prague, XVII-XVIII), brown diamond (1.3cts), rose-cut diamond (1.25cts), cameo, natural pearl (22.8cts), mother of pearl (3.3cts), ruby (2.84cts), sapphire (4.5cts), emerald (1.13cts). POA.

Sous Bois Earrings in 18K yellow gold and silver set with diamonds, amethysts (16.35cts), moonstones (6.8cts), carved moonstones (5.1cts). POA.

Scarabée Précieux Ring in 18K yellow gold and silver set with coral (19.92cts), aquamarine (0.60ct), carved aquamarine (64.45cts), diamond (0.87ct), amethyst (5.75cts) and tsavorite (0.7ct). POA.

www.sylvie-corbelin.com

Marquise Palace Turquoise Earrings in gold and silver set with 47.40 carats of turquoises. POA.

Aux Portes du Ciel Ring (reverse also shown) in 22K, 18K gold and silver set with one lacquered opal (34.7cts), emeralds, diamonds (1.67cts), amethysts, rubies (0.72ct), sapphires and tsavorites. POA.

Je t’aime un peu, beaucoup pendant Necklace in 18K yellow gold and silver set with one lacquered opal (26.1cts), diamonds (2.3cts), moonstones, sapphires, tourmalines (23cts). POA.

Corbelin’s other passion and successful ca-reer as an antique dealer certainly pervades her creations, as she routinely uses artefacts and gemstones that she has collected and put aside for years. A fairly recent project has been the celebration of antique lacquered opals from Japan. Although delightful in their own right, Corbelin has set them in gold with a paving of multi-coloured gems (colours that mirror that of the lacquered drawings). And as in any of her renditions, the back is as cap-tivating as the front. For the ‘Aux Portes du

Ciel’ ring, goldwork at the back reproduces the painting on the front, plus the artist’s sig-nature. The outcome is ambrosial and joyful. That said, the idea that Corbelin’s work relies on artifices to induce enchantment can be eas-ily dismissed. Give her two components and she will produce the same level of desirabil-ity. The ‘Marquise Palace Turquoise’ earrings are just that: splendid showstoppers with just gold and a ton of turquoise cabochons! They are the ultimate accessory for this season and beyond.

It makes sense that TASAKI Atelier’s latest high jewellery collections are about that very world where their beautiful pearls come from, oceans. A fantasy element was further intro-duced by creative director, Prabal Gurung, as the setting for the new collection is none other than the lost city of Atlantis. With that in mind and to strengthen the message, the presenta-tion was immersive with the Salon d’Été of the Ritz Paris having been completely redesigned to create an underwater pod (a peaceful closed

off room with curvy white walls and an under-current of blue light). The new TASAKI Atelier collections include Nacreous pearl, Aurora au-rora, Buoy navigation, Waterfall, Surge and Elysium. The blue topazes from the latter parure are the heart of a motif inspired by the “North Star’s brilliance as viewed from Atlantis”. The star design uses a rainbow of coloured pre-cious stones (no pearls) and it evokes the ka-leidoscopic scintillation when the light hits the water. It is electrifying to say the least!

www.tasaki.co.uk www.tasaki-global.com

Elysium Bracelet in 18K white gold set with blue topazes, diamonds and coloured sapphires; TASAKI Atelier. POA.

Elysium Necklace in 18K white gold set with blue topazes, diamonds and coloured sapphires; TASAKI Atelier. POA.

Elysium Earrings in 18K white gold set with blue topazes, diamonds and coloured sapphires; TASAKI Atelier. POA.

As much as the Elysium collection is geared to party the night away, the Waterfall collection is a more el-egant affair with South Sea pearls nestled within the flow of fine tassels of diamonds. Whereas Waterfall is all about the drapery effect of fringes, the Surge collection embraces the strong impetus of shooting lines. “It captures the dynamic, ever-changing shapes formed by waves. The creations portray the glitter-ing surge and spray of breaking surf”, the teams ex-plains. There is no question that this tribute to a sub-aquatic hidden world is not for the faint-hearted. The pieces are powerful, a new modern mythology writ-ten all over them, yet they possibly are also what Amphitrite would wear.

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Waterfall Necklace in 18K white gold set with South Sea pearls and diamonds; TASAKI Atelier. POA.

Waterfall Ring in 18K white gold set with South Sea pearl and diamonds; TASAKI Atelier. POA.

Surge Necklace in 18K white gold set with Akoya pearls and diamonds; TASAKI Atelier. POA.

Entering the boutique of Transmission Tradition Fortune (a.k.a. TTF) on rue de la Paix is stepping into a connoisseur’s den. It is indeed where you can learn every-thing about the fascinating world of jade-ite as well as sampling its rarest and purest form. Opened in summer 2018, the boutique showcases high jewellery marvels as well as fine jewels. The commendable intent is to form a bridge between East and West, and precisely by promoting the pyroxene min-eral that is the ultimate precious stone in Asia, very rare and extremely sought-after in its gem quality. Besides, Mr Fenghua Wu, the founder of TTF, revels in embracing the unique properties of jadeite by placing it in

high jewels inspired by the most artistical-ly fertile Chinese dynasty, the Song dynas-ty (960–1279 CE). The most desirable qual-ity of jadeite is likened to ‘liquid emerald’ for its dense, uniform emerald green tex-ture and unique glow. Here are two creations where exceptional jadeites expose their re-splendence. The Gate of Heaven ring has a “geometric diamond shape evoking a celes-tial door, set with a cabochon of translucent green jadeite with extreme purity. It shines in the center of a double surround of diamonds and rubies of the brightest red, whose myste-rious strength is the attribute of monarchs in many cultures, on a par with the most beau-tiful diamonds”, the team explains.

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The Gate of Heaven Ring in 18K white gold set with an oval jadeite cabochon, translucent imperial green of 17.27 carats, 78 rubies (1.928cts), 8 pear-cut diamonds (2.844cts), 8 shuttle-cut diamonds (0.971ct) and 234 round cut diamonds (1.857cts); Great Imperial Rings collection. POA.

Orchidée Céleste Necklace in 18K white gold set with 1,872

round cut white diamonds (22.621carats), 7 shuttle-cut

diamonds (1.613cts), round-cut yellow diamonds (0.528ct), and

16 exceptional carved imperial green jadeites (34.46cts). POA.

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Another exquisite piece is a delicate diamond-paved wreath, out of which an orchid has grown and blossomed. Jadeite of the most beautiful translu-cent and hypnotic emerald green form the petals and leaves while yellow gold pistils burst towards the light with their yellow and white diamond tips. The lon-ger white diamond-paved leaves start by elegantly wrapping around the cir-cle and eventually end up gracefully draping downwards. This naturalistic composition evokes the fragile beauty of a cymbidium orchid and is of course reminiscent of gongbi hua painting (‘painting with detailed strokes’) from the Song era.

Golden Pheasant Brooches in 18K yellow

gold, either engraved and glossy polished

or entirely glossy polished, set with

two black spinels for the eyes and that can

be made in different weights on request

from 24 grams. POA.

The Imperial Golden Brooch in 18K white gold set with 488 round-cut white diamonds (13.448cts), 344 round-cut yellow diamonds (5.052cts), 224 round-cut emeralds (3.046cts), 69 coloured sapphires (1.29cts), 107 intense and light pink sapphires (1.369cts) and 2 black spinels. POA.

Golden Pheasant with Hibiscus in 18K yellow and white gold set with an imperial green carved jadeite (26.7cts), 324 round-cut diamonds (6.80cts), 360 yellow and gold diamonds (4.26cts), 48 grey diamonds (1.3cts), 127 round-size amethysts (8.22cts), 41 round-size pink sapphires (1.13cts), 43 round-size purple sapphires (1.59cts), 98 round-size black spinels (3.2cts) and 19 round-size rubies (0.64ct). POA.

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The immersion in Chinese history continues with a trilogy of golden pheasants. The team explains that “it is the precursor of the legend-ary phoenix and gave him its head. An imperial female attribute, it adorns the Diuyi dress on-ly worn by the Empress. It is one of the great classical sources of inspiration for the picto-rial art of Emperor Song Huitzong during the Song dynasty.” There is the Golden Pheasant that comes as a solid yellow gold creation, ei-ther engraved and glossy polished or entirely glossy polished; the Imperial Golden Pheasant

that is a magnificent version whose crest and robe is made of yellow diamonds, chest of sap-phires and feathers of white diamonds and em-eralds. And lastly the Golden Pheasant with Hibiscus brooch, inspired by the painting of the same name by Emperor Huizong (1082–1135 CE). Regally perched on a carved jadeite leaf of the most beautiful emerald green, the lean pheasant dons a ceremonial plumage of purple (amethysts), black (spinels) and yel-low (diamonds). Three brooches, three itera-tions of a dynastic symbol.

Following last year’s Quatres Contes de Grimm high jewellery collection, Van Cleef & Arpels pursues their journey through semi-nal tales, this time paying homage to William Shakespeare’s legendary masterpiece, Romeo & Juliet. There could not be a better sto-ryline for the French high jeweller to show-case their expertise, especially their talent for materialising romance in their creations. “For us, the choice of Romeo and Juliet was a natural one for several reasons. Literature is one of the Maison’s major sources of inspi-ration, and in 2003 we had already paid trib-ute to the world of Shakespeare with the A Midsummer Night’s Dream collection,” ex-plains Nicolas Bos, President and CEO of Van Cleef & Arpels. “When Benjamin Millepied – whose work we have supported for the past several years – told us that he was working on a contemporary adaptation of Romeo and Juliet, it struck me as a remarkable creative opportunity. Shakespeare’s masterpiece acts as the starting point for a new thematic col-lection, but also for a dialogue between disci-plines involving High Jewellery, dance, music and the visual arts.”

Balcone Clip (front and reverse) in 18K white and rose gold set with emeralds, tsavorite garnets and diamonds; Romeo & Juliet. POA.

Maiolica Necklace in 18K white gold set with one 42.86-carat emerald-cut sapphire from Sri Lanka and diamonds; Romeo & Juliet. POA.

Flora between-the-fingers Ring in 18K white and rose gold set with one 8.17-carat cushion-cut sapphire from Madagascar, emeralds, sapphires and diamonds; Romeo & Juliet. POA.

www.vancleefarpels.com

This passage from the team’s presentation book perfectly describes in a few words the collection. So please let me just quote it here. “In over 100 unique pieces ranging from the fig-urative to the abstract, the new High Jewellery collection offers a brand new vision of Romeo and Juliet, based closely on Shakespeare’s 1597 tragedy. The story is told both through the main characters and the context and setting for their love. The balcony scene, the approach-ing dawn, the birdsong, gardens and architec-ture of Verona, along with the finery and cos-tumes of the Renaissance: all seem to come to life in these creations. To create effects of vol-ume, perspective and relief, the pieces combine

different stone cuts, setting techniques and shades, in a constant interplay of geometry and curves. From subtle gradations to Pierres de Caractère that instil a unique emotion, the gems speak the language of the sentiments: it includes the warmth of Mystery Set rubies, the crystalline clarity of diamonds and the deep hue of Colombian emeralds. The red and blue tones that dominate the colour palette are in-spired by the coats of arms of the two fami-lies: the Capulets for Juliet and the Montagues for Romeo. A blend of the two shades, mauve evokes the passion of the young lovers – united for all eternity – while green echoes the hope that fills their hearts.”

Romeo & Juliet Clip in 18K white, rose and yellow gold set with black lacquer, rubies, sapphires, tsavorite garnets, lapis-lazuli, yellow and white diamonds; Romeo & Juliet. POA.

Night or Day Clip (front and reverse) in 18K white, rose and yellow gold set with rubies, sapphires and diamonds; Romeo & Juliet. POA.

Matrimonio Transformable Necklace in 18K white and rose gold set with one 13.78-carat cushion-cut sapphire from Sri Lanka, blue and pink sapphires, lapis-lazuli and diamonds; Romeo & Juliet. POA.

www.vancleefarpels.com