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adelaideshow clearly. The dining room, with its lushly dressed tables, matt-and-gloss detailed black feature walls and judicious use of white leather, silver and glass, looks remarkably fresh despite being over three years old, and gives the grand Victorian mansion a decidedly contemporary edge. 142 Tynte St, North Adelaide, (08) 8267 4636.

Sparrow kitchen & barSince being resurrected by the couple behind Adelaide’s Farina and The Manse, this fine site (once home to Cibo) is now a roaring success. This sprawling space

aims to provide something for everyone, with a herb pot-fringed terrace for those warm days, a smarter dining area inside, and counter seating for more casual assignations. Mathew Goodlet’s menu is equally flexible, ranging from good pizzas (try the roast pork and apple) and charcuterie to Spanish octopus with a dressing of potato and paprika, which creates a clever play on the classic Galician dish. Breakfast might be smoked trout with a poached egg and brioche or a toasted sanger of duck, cotechino sausage and baked beans. 10 O’Connell St, North Adelaide, (08) 8267 2444.

GeorGeS on waymouthThe arrival of respected local chef Sandor Palmai at this popular business-lunch haunt has delivered food to match the professional service and solid wine list. Sandor seems more comfortable here than in previous gigs, including The Melting Pot (now The Pot, see Relaxed Dining). This shows in excellent dishes such as confit duck and lentil tortellini with Persian feta, radicchio and caramelised pear, or a white chocolate creme brulee with lime sorbet and chocolate zeppoli (doughnuts). They’re open for breakfast, too. 20 Waymouth St, Adelaide, (08) 8211 6960.

There’s an awful lot to love in South Australia. The state is home to many of the country’s best wines, marvellous restaurants and great regional produce (which is often unique –stand up and take a bow, the Barossa).

It’s in Adelaide that these all these elements converge. Here, in the space of just a few city blocks, sophisticated fine diners stand side by side with hip cafes

and hearty little multicultural eateries to rival those on the East Coast.

And then there’s a thriving boutique bar scene that belies the idea that Adelaide puts up its shutters at 6pm. And we haven’t even mentioned those wine lists bejewelled with gems from McLaren Vale, the Clare and the Adelaide Hills. Here’s a selection of our favourite places to eat and drink in the city.

smart diningthe manSeAyhan Erkoc’s menu shows a firm grasp of the modern ideas he honed working with Greg Doyle at Pier and as Mark Best’s sous chef at Marque in Sydney. Thankfully, technique is never allowed to overpower flavour, as demonstrated in a rich chicken liver parfait, where the tastes of Madeira, hazelnut and beetroot all

Matt Preston leaves behind the hustle and bustle of city centres and scours the east and west coasts (plus everything in between) in search of regional Australia’s great Italian offerings.

the guide.

Chef Dioni Pike of Panacea. Clockwise from  left: Panacea; Sparrow Restaurant & Bar; smoked eel croquettes at Sparrow; Concubine’s cool interiors; apricot crumble at Queen Street Cafe; chef Ben Petropoulos of Queen Street Cafe; The Pot’s chic iceberg salad; try exotic  white sapote at Adelaide Farmers’ Market.

WORDS matt preSton PHOTOGRAPHY catherine Sutherland

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maGill eState reStaurantFor a big night out worshipping famous Penfolds wines, nowhere can compete with this hillside dining room on the edge of suburbia, which looks out over the city lights at night. Here you’ll find 1995 Grange poured by the glass for $125 and the 1998 Bin 707 cabernet sauvignon for $65. This is fine dining with all the trimmings – and the price. The restaurant’s avowed tilt at embracing cutting-edge European ideas like sous-vide cookery and gelification, however, may alienate some who complain that it can take the focus away from the wines – which should be the stars here. 78 Penfold Rd, Magill, (08) 8301 5551.

Wine lovers would also do well to visit The Wine Underground (121 Pirie St, Adelaide, (08) 8232 1222), which boasts an impressive list, great choices by the glass and the cooking of well-regarded young chef Adam Liston.

meSa lunGaThis sleek tapas bar has a menu that stretches from simple stuff like a wooden board of jamon or manchego cheese with quince paste to classics such as clams with pork and fennel sausages, and patatas bravas wearing their spicy tomato and paprika sauce. If you don’t feel like going Iberian, then there are good pizzas, too, but don’t miss out on the house sangrias; the white wine cut with peach liqueur and cassis will bring the rays of summer into even the greyest winter day. Cnr Morphett and Gouger sts, Adelaide, (08) 8410 7617.

From the same owners comes mod Asian eatery Concubine (132 Gouger St, Adelaide, (08) 8212 8288). Boasting a similarly stylish attention to the interiors, Concubine marries wild wallpapers with the feel of an old Chinese shophouse. To eat, try SA prawns with lime salt or deep-fried duck with the sweet-sour tang of tamarind.

martini riStoranteSome local foodies turn their noses up at the Italian eateries of Norwood’s Parade, but while Martini has a family-friendly feel, dishes of fine cured meats or honey-sticky roast quail with grappa and wilted radicchio are miles away from the creamy

chicken pastas up the road. Chef/owner Larry Piscioneri has even created a modern classic by pairing Woodside goat’s curd, grilled cacciatore sausage and peperonata with layers of thin, crisp Sardinian bread; it’s the kind of snacky dish you’d get if you asked The River Café in London to design an Italian alternative to nachos. 59a The Parade, Norwood, (08) 8362 7822.

The newest Italian in town, Barendoe (171 Hutt St, Adelaide, (08) 8232 8889) turns out arancini or pasta with crab and chilli.

Adelaide also has some of the country’s best hotel dining. The Hilton is home to The Grange (233 Victoria Sq, Adelaide (08) 8237 0698), where Cheong Liew works his culinary magic in dishes such as his Four Dances of the Sea: soused snook (a local fish), squid-ink noodles, octopus aioli and spiced prawns. The Hyatt Regency on North Terrace has a fine little tempura bar in its Japanese restaurant, Shiki ((08) 8238 2382), that is worth checking out, particularly if you’re dining alone or à deux.

relaxed diningthe Food buSineSSChef Amy Hage has been putting up some of the city’s most interesting food for more than five years. People still flock here at lunch for duck rillettes with pickled quince or the signature leek and oyster pies but, with its carpet and chocolate padded banquette, it’s an attractive weekend dinner option, too. Come for Hay Valley lamb with labne and lentils or Barossa chook with grapes and roast garlic. For breakfast, take an umbrella-shaded table and revive with brioche French toast with buttered apples and a ‘brekkytini’ of Cointreau and gin spiked with lemon juice and the tang of marmalade. 4 Linden Ave, Hazelwood Park, (08) 8379 8699.

the pot Food & wineThe transformation of the Melting Pot into this casual space of open kitchen, woody interior and scrawled specials on brown paper is matched with a contemporary menu from young chef Ashley Brandom. Dishes skip from charcuterie, slow-roasted lamb and suckling pig, to surprisingly chic

but gutsy salads – think iceberg lettuce hearts topped with aioli and anchovy, served with soft-boiled egg, gherkin, capers and a fine frizz of lemon zest. Apart from the $20 Sunday lunch, prices seldom breach $18. An interesting list of wines runs from a dry Gros Manseng from Jurançon in France to a McLaren Vale tempranillo. 160 King William Rd, Hyde Park, (08) 8373 2044.

melt pizzeriaThis artisan pizza joint, and neighbour to The Pot, is as famous for its fennel, olive and orange salad as the thin-crust pizzas. Choose from combinations such as Spanish meatballs, provolone cheese and roasted cherry tomatoes or roasted pumpkin with mozzarella, anchovies and sage. 1/160 King William Rd, Hyde Park, (08) 8272 8186.

biStro domWith its stylish pressed-metal wainscoting, this long narrow room has the feel of the best sort of French train-station bistro. It’s the kind of place you can start the day with a good coffee and baked eggs or a buttery croissant, and then return for a lunch of pan-fried lambs brains with potato salad and bitter greens, or a leek and blue cheese tart for the less carnivorous. 24 Waymouth St, Adelaide, (08) 8231 7000.

panaceaThis new cafe with a restaurant-quality menu has captured the laidback charm Andy Curren and Adam Nero nurtured when they had Cibo in Hyde Park. A glam crowd has followed them to this smart space, with its bold pendant lights and Chinese elms in the cute courtyard. The menu from chef Dioni Pike (ex-Wine Underground) is loaded with honest food, such as vine leaf-wrapped sardines, slow-cooked pork belly with saffron aioli, and baked apples filled with crema Catalana. The wine list nods to well-priced local heroes, such as SC Pannell, Cascabel and Majella, but start with a Gin and Pink – an elegantly tart cocktail of homegrown ruby grapefruit juice with gin and a splash of Cointreau. Breakfast on Saturdays is manic and more freeform. 72-74 Halifax St, Adelaide, (08) 8232 3523.

the guide.

Chicken with grapes and roast garlic at The Food Business. Clockwise from left: Dragonfly; meet for drinks at Botanic Bar; Mesa Lunga’s dining room; do tapas at Mesa Lunga; stock up on fresh breads at Sparrow. 

66  delicious. delicious.  67

the guide.The Clarion Hotel Soho. Clockwise from  left: Bistro Dom’s charming space; order an espresso at Cafe Komodo; or settle in for one of their steak sandwiches; buy deli goods to go at Sparrow; the sleek decor of The Clarion Hotel Soho.

where to drinkWhile Adelaide may not have the same booming bar culture as other capital cities, the good places are gems by any measure. Dragonfly (193 Victoria Sq, Adelaide, (08) 8212 5661) has a quirky, slightly grungy feel, but look closely and you’ll see no little thought has gone into sourcing some rather fine modern furniture. Drink longnecks of Coopers or spark up with an espresso martini of vodka, Tia Maria and a shot of coffee. If you’re hungry, there’s a good choice of bar food, from calamari fritti to salty, chilli edamame beans served in their pods to pop into your mouth. Set away from the hurly burly of Rundle Street, the location is another plus.

For something a trifle more flash, try Botanic Bar (309 North Tce, Adelaide (08) 8227 0799) or Apothecary 1878 (118 Hindley St, Adelaide, (08) 8212 9099), which are both great examples of stylish grown-up bars full of clubby furniture and adult wine lists. The bar at the Richmond Hotel (see Where to Stay) can also be a good bet.

where to eat – cafesQueen Street caFeThis could be Adelaide’s coolest suburban strip. Here, designers and vintage furniture shops nuzzle up against this stylishly retro cafe of polished boards, old Sunday-school chairs at footpath tables, and a huge blackboard menu that offers great cafe dishes with a restaurant’s attention to detail. Chef Bill Petropoulos turns out elegantly simple dishes such as speck, beetroot and mascarpone risotto, or even their avocado on dark rye toast – the bread sourced from a small-batch artisan baker, or a. 12 Elizabeth St, Croydon, (08) 8340 0708.

caFe komodoHidden down a narrow path, this sprawling cafe ranges across two rooms and an oasis of a garden, and has a feel that’s part Lombok backpackers’ and part art-student den. New owner Claire Flynn was a regular for two years before buying in, and intends to keep things pretty much as they were. She will, however, offer some new dishes and share plates for the Friday jazz nights

and Sunday music sessions (which original owner Louise Standish will still program). Gluten-free and vegetarian dishes remain a focus, but they also do a fine steak sanger with onion marmalade. Breakfast is another winner, with wholemeal date pancakes and Turkish bread filled with egg, bacon and salad jostling for attention. 118 Prospect Rd, Prospect, (08) 8344 7448.

brown doG caFeThis unassuming cafe with a busy courtyard is a favourite for weekend breakfasts, despite the fact it’s a little off the beaten track. Diners come for the breakfast trifle, porridge with chai-soaked fruits and hot cinnamon milk, or a generous mushroom bruschetta with feta, caramelised onions and a dab of pesto. Expect loads of kids and a good fruity short black. 143 Goodwood Rd, Goodwood, (08) 8172 1752.

eaSt terrace continental‘ETC’ is a perennial contender in our anuual delicious. Cafe Awards for the best in the state. When fine, bask in the sun on an outdoor seat with a decent cafe latte, fresh OJ and a bowl of fresh ricotta topped with banana, honey and pistachios for breakfast, or a burger for lunch. 6 East Tce, Adelaide, (08) 8359 2255.

the caFe at the StoreThis cafe has become a smart North Adelaide institution. Out front, there’s extensive pavement seating for enjoying smoothies or huevos rancheros; out back is given over to a deli and gourmet providore with Saskia Beer’s Black Pig smallgoods, Coriole olive oil and vinegars and local cheeses. Level 1/157 Melbourne St, North Adelaide, (08) 8361 6999.

where to shopadelaide ShowGround FarmerS’ marketThe combination of excellent producers and suppliers of ready-to-eat stuff to graze on make this one of the best foodie experiences in the city. Key stands to check out are Kalangadoo Apples, Paolo’s Bread, Rosie’s free-range eggs (and Rosie!), good fresh nut and seed oils, and the vegie stalls

selling everything from nettles, beautiful beets and bitter Italian greens over winter to fresh pistachios, gourmet potatoes and heirloom vegetables in season. The market is on each Saturday, but note that the entry’s actually on Leader Street. There’s good coffee to warm you up (the stand out the back of the main shed is best), kids cooking classes for the littlies and the option of Bush Tucker ice cream, too. The Illawarra plum ice cream and Davidson plum sorbets are our favourites; the wattleseed is good for coffee lovers and the strawberry gum’s interesting, too. Adelaide Showgrounds, Goodwood Rd, Wayville, (08) 8231 8155.

hyde park Gourmet GrocerNora and Nigel Robinson stock cracking local products at this upmarket providore, including fresh organic pizza dough, Maggie Beer’s ice cream (vanilla and elderflower – yum), Spice Girlz chutneys and bread from both Brezel and Paolo’s, which number in Adelaide’s best. 181 King William Rd, Hyde Park, (08) 8271 2825.

adelaide central marketEach visit to the Central Market throws up a new favourite. This time it’s Sevenhill Fine Food. Waldemar Wojtas has a dizzying range of Eastern European- and German-style smallgoods. His pork lachsschinken is as soft and delicate as smoked salmon, while Westphalian-style knochenschinken is like delicately smoked and gently salted prosciutto. The smoked liverwurst cries out to be spread thickly on soft white bread and for the more adventurous there’s thinly sliced blutwurst (blood sausage). Also try the quark cheese, kefir yoghurt drink and salty Polish-style gherkins.

Other favourites at the Central Market are the Say Cheese and Smelly Cheese counters for the best local dairy goods (Woodside, Udder Delights and Barossa Cheese Company), and the Dough bread stall (try their mini lemon tarts). If you’re looking for local whole fish like garfish or snook, a kilo of periwinkles or something smoky – whether it’s a slab of smoked snapper or Smokey Bay oysters, try Samtass Seafoods. Those of an Italian bent should slip into Marino Meats for imported pasta,

the guide.

the guide.

buffalo mozzarella and a staggering array of smallgoods from ossocollo (cured pork loin) to rather good prosciutto. They also make a great range of chunky snags. Greenside is a good stall for lesser known fruits and early-harvested varieties, such as quinces, black Russian tomatoes and heritage pears. Nearby, Lien Heng is famous for her Asian greens, from bok choy to various exotic edible gourds.

If you need pre-market sustenance, get a correctional short black from Nicci or Maria Bugeja at Lucia’s cafe (their family makes the pizza, pasta and sauces sold under the same name). For an insider’s view of the market and the best local produce, join Mark Gleeson’s Market Tours. Mark also runs the Provedore stall, selling what might be the world’s tallest chocolate crackles. Gouger St, Adelaide, (08) 8203 7203.

where to stayclarion hotel SohoThis boutique hotel with 30 rooms has huge beds, a rooftop pool and a sleek look. The restaurant, Decant, boasts chef Jonathan Kemble (ex-Star of Greece in Port Willunga) at the stoves, running a 100-kilometre locavore menu. From $219 per double. 264 Flinders St, Adelaide, (08) 8412 5600, clarionhotelsoho.com.au.

hotel richmondHoused within a 1920s Art Deco building, this designer hotel in the centre of town has 30 thoroughly modern rooms, from about $160 per double. 128 Rundle Mall, (08) 8215 4444, hotelrichmond.com.au.

the hiltonWith its 374 rooms, this big-name hotel is wonderfully close to the Central Market, Gouger Street’s restaurants and Dragonfly. Plus, it’s also home to the cooking of both Cheong Liew at The Grange and Simon Bryant of ABC TV’s The Cook and The Chef. From $165 per double or from $225 for one of the 100 recently refurbished deluxe rooms. 233 Victoria Sq, (08) 8217 2000, hilton.com.Thanks to South Australia Tourism Commission for assistance with this story. For more information, visit: southaustralia.com.au.

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1 minG’S SteamboatThe name says it all: messy hands-on eating fun for all the

family. Try the Yin Yang pot, which comes with two stocks, one Sichuan and one herbal, for you to cook your veg and meats in. They do great homemade fish balls and dumplings, too. 301-303 Morphett St, Adelaide, (08) 8410 0188.

2 kopi timCome for authentic Malaysian in the less visited west-side

of Chinatown, with great roti plates and curry-slurping sauces, a genuine fish-head curry and top-shelf kway teow. 168 Gouger St, Adelaide, (08) 8231 6168.

3 addiS ababa caFeThis is heaven for Adelaide’s Ethiopian cab drivers. No

cutlery, just tear off swathes of tangy injera bread to mop up intense, dark and dry curries. Also try the coffee with incense spices. 462 Port Rd, West Hindmarsh, (08) 8241 5185.

4 charcoal hwaro korean bbQ This former Korean butcher

has dropped in grill tables so you can eat classic barbecued meats and a great bulgogi. 15 Pitt St, Adelaide.

5 hotaru JapaneSeI go for the wonderful steak, but the spectacular sushi boat and

teppanyaki are great, too. Afterwards, go next door to Sugarbowl for one of their funky Asian desserts. 162 Gouger St, Adelaide, (08) 8410 2838.

6 bbQ cityStand-out dishes at this basic Chinese diner include the

roasted pigeon, hand-cut noodles, crisp-skinned chicken and roast pork. It’s the perfect spot for groups and families. 84 Gouger St, Adelaide, (08) 8212 8299.

7 the VillaGeExpect a sophisticated setting with cool wallpaper and a pan-

Indian menu, smart service and wines, and a wonderful dosai (lentil-flour pancake) breakfast at weekends. 125 Gouger St, Adelaide, (08) 8212 2536.

8 laVaSh bakery kabab ShopThe house-baked breads and chargrilled meats give this place

an authentic Afghani feel – try the bolani potato-stuffed bread with fiery red sauce. 115 South Rd, Thebarton, (08) 8354 0707.

9 taldy-kurGan This fresh and fab family-run pirozhky bar does great cabbage

rolls, borscht and Russian dumplings for a snack-stop when doing your shopping. Shop 3, Central Market, Gouger St, Adelaide, 0434 082 079.

10 nano ready 2 GoEnjoy homestyle southern Italian food in this busy

East End cafe, which does huge squares of pizza, housemade pastas and revolving main-course specials. There’s a terrific little wine list, too. 23 Ebenezer Pl, Adelaide, (08) 8227 0468. d.

top 10 global gemsNo one knows Adelaide’s hidden gems like Adelaide Advertiser’s award-winning reviewer Tony Love. Here are his top picks for a well-priced culinary adventure.