The Future of Sustainabilityin the Fashion Industry

A study commissioned by C&A Foundation

Authors: Cornelia Daheim, Kacper Nosarzewski, Norbert Kołos,

Jessica Prendergast, Christian SchoonWith contributions by: Clara Joester-Morisse, Jerome C. Glenn, Theodore Gordon

Visualization by: Michelle Winkelsdorf

1

Contents

ExecutiveSummary 2

IntroductionandtheProjectContextandAims 8

KeyInsightswithAViewAcrosstheDelphiConcepts 10CurrentTrendsAreNotSufficienttoAchieveNet-PositiveImpacts 10AllConceptsWithinReach 11

“TheTop7”ConceptsFosteringSustainabilityintheFashionIndustry 13ChangingtheNarrativevia“IncreasedGlobalAwareness” 17

FibresandProcessing 19

HighlyDetailedSustainabilityReporting 20

Worker-drivenInitiatives 22

HighConcentration/Cooperation 24

ExtendedProducerResponsibility 26

WagesintheFashionIndustry 27

ResultsfortheRemaining7Concepts 28ClothingasaService 29

AutomationRevolution 30

CircularEconomy 31

ConsumerLevelSustainabilityIndex 32

Resale/Second-handModels 33

MajorityofClothingisLocallyProduced 34

TaxRegulationsforIncreasingSustainability 35

PathwaysTowardsSystemicChange 36

TheNeedtoAddressTwoTimescales 38

Outlook 39

Annex 40OverviewoftheProjectMethodology 40

FurtherDetailsonDelphiDesign 43

IntroductiontoDelphiMethodology 43

ApproachandReasoningtoDesigningtheDelphiOnline-Survey 44

ApproachandDesignoftheWorkshops 46

DetailsonExpertSelectionandInvolvement:OverallConceptofExpertSelection 47

ContributingExperts 49

References 52

FullDataofDelphiResults 55

2

ExecutiveSummary

TheWhyandtheHowoftheStudyAtatimewhensustainabilityisreceivingincreasingattention–bothfromthepublicaswellaswithin

thebusinessandpolicysphere,thereisstillmuchunclarityonthefutureperspectivesofsustainability

(notonly)inthefashionsector.C&AFoundationcommissionedthisstudytoreflectonthesefuture

perspectivesinthefashionindustryinaDelphi-basedapproach1withaselectsetofexperts.2Withthe

aimtomaketheresultsavailableandusableforthesectorasawholeandtherebycontributetothe

debateonthefutureofsustainability.

Focusingontheperspectiveofthefutureofsustainabilityinthefashionindustry,thestudyasks:

● Howmuchchangedoestheindustryhavetoundergotoachievesustainability,inthesenseof

net-positiveimpacts3fortherestorationoftheenvironmentaswellasforworkingconditions

andpoverty?Orinotherwords:Howfarawayarewefromachievingnet-positivesustainability?

● Whatareopportunitiesforstrategiesaimedatachievingnet-positivesustainability?Which

barrierswouldneedtobeovercome?

● Whatareemergingtrajectoriesorpathwaystowardsachievingnet-positivesustainabilityacrossthefashionindustry?

Methodology-wise,theanswersprovidedwerebroughttogetherwithandonthebasisofinsightsfromagroupofinternationalfashionand/orsustainabilityexpertsfromavarietyofbackgrounds,viaanonline-based“Real-TimeDelphi”survey,andanexpertworkshop(pleaseseetheinfographicandannexformoredetailsonmethodology).Ofcourse,therearecaveatsthatcomewiththisstudy.Aswithanypieceofworkthatlooksintothe

future,wehavetostressthatitisnotmeanttopaintanexactpictureofwhatistocome.However,itsharesawell-informedviewof,ontheonehand,whattoprobablyexpectifwecontinueonthepathweareoncurrently.Onetheotherhand,italsolinesoutwhatisfeasibleassumingthatavarietyofmeasuresaretakenbyactorsfromacrossthefield,andlinesoutthepathwaysandactionstotaketoachievearadicallysustainablefutureforthesector.

1 Pleaseseetheannexfordetailsonmethodologyanddefinitionsoftechnicaltermsused. 2 Theauthorswouldliketothankandexpresstheirdeepgratitudetotheexpertswhocontributedtothestudy,whetherintheformofinterviews,contributionstotheonlineDelphisurveyortotheworkshop. 3 Wefollowthedefinitionofnet-positiveimpactsreferencedbyHollender2015(i.e."Businesseshaveimpactsontheenvironmentandsociety.Somearenegative,somepositive.Foracompanytobenet-positive,thelatterneedtooutweightheformer.”).Inaddition,pleaserefertoForumfortheFuture(2018)andNetPositiveProject(2019)forthecurrentdiscoursearoundthisconcept.

3

Twenty-fiveglobaltopexpertswithhighdiversity,selectedbycriteriaoftopicexpertiseacrosstherelevantfields,geographicalspread,experts´ affiliation

Asia Europe NorthAmerica Central&SouthAmerica

Academic Activist/Campaigner Non-profit/SocialSectorIndustryJournalist

Industry

DelphiOnline-SurveyDelphiDesign

1 2 3 4 5 6 7

8 9

Gen.Hypotheses1 Gen.Hypotheses2

Impactonworkingconditionsandpoverty

Impactontherestorationofthenaturalenvironment

Earliesttimefortheconcepttoreachmainstream(ETM)

DeskResearchAcademicpapers&sustainablefashionreports

“RipVanWinkle”ExercisewithC&ALeadershipTeam

Expertinterviews5interviewswithglobalexperts

10 11 12 13 14

ExpertWorkshop

BuildingonDelphiResultsAssessmentandfurtherinsights,esp.onbarriersandlevers

PathwaysPathwaysidentified,alongwithpromoters,antagonists,&actions

LinesofActionActionfieldshighlighted

TheMethodologicalApproachandMainPhasesoftheDelphiStudy

14conceptsand2generalhypothesesassessed

Questionscoveredforthe14concepts:

4

KeyResults

“I still feel the issue is overconsumption, and we cannot just buy our way out of this.” (Expertquote)

CurrentEffortsarenotEnoughtoAchieveNet-PositiveSustainability

Assumingthatcurrenttrendscontinue,themajorityoftheDelphiexpertsdonotregardanet-positiveimpactofthefashionindustryasachievable:75%regardthisasinfeasiblefortherestorationofthenaturalenvironment,and62%regardthisasinfeasibleforworkingconditionsandpoverty.However,thisdoesnotmeanthatanet-positiveimpactoneitherisunachievableassuch.Instead,strongerand

moreradicaleffortsthanvisibleincurrenttrendswillbeneededtoacceleratechangeandthusmakea

net-positiveimpactpossible.TheactionsattributedtotheconceptsrankedintheDelphiexemplifywhat

sucheffortscanbe.Andwhilemostoftheseconceptsdobuildonalreadyexisting“signalsofchange”

foreachoftheconcepts(e.g.approachesthatarealreadyinmotion,butonasmaller-scale),amuch

morewidespreaddiffusionandimpactisassumed-sotospeaka“radicalimplementation”.

Furthermore,takentogetherthemeasuressuggestedfortherespectivetopconceptswouldimplya

radicallychangedfashionsystem–evenifthatmightnotbethecaseifoneconsideredtheconcepts

individually.

WithStrongAdditionalEfforts,ConceptsFosteringSustainability4CanReachMainstreamwithin16Years

Foralloftheconceptsevaluatedinthestudy,theexpertsalsoestimatedthesocalled“ETM”or“earliest

timetomainstream”.Thisreferstowheneachoftheseconceptscouldbecomeamainstream

phenomenon-undertheassumptionsthatstrongeffortsaretakenbyrespectiveactors.

Theoverallpictureoftheseassessmentsofwhenconceptscouldreachmainstreamisstriking:Theearliesttimetomainstreamforallindividualconceptsisexpectedtobe“withinreach”.Infact,allconceptsareassessedasbeingachievableby2035,i.e.within16yearsatmost.Thelargemajorityof

theconceptsareabletobecomemainstreamoverthemediumterm(in5to15years),andtwothirds

couldevenreachmainstreamwithinthenextdecade-again,onlyiftherespectiveeffortsaretaken.For

onlyoneconcept(“themajorityofclothingislocallyproduced”),ETMisassessedasbeingachievable

overthelong-term,i.e.within16yearsattheearliest.

4 Theconceptsevaluatedinthestudyarecalled“hypotheses”inthecorrectforesightterminology–wecallthem“concepts

fosteringsustainability”hereforbettereaseofreading.Thetermmeansconcepts,possiblesolutionsordevelopmentsthat

couldinfluenceandpossiblystronglyfostersustainability.Pleaseseetheannexfordetailsonhowtheconceptswereidentified.

5

Top7ofConceptsFosteringSustainabilityintheFashionIndustry

AswithanyDelphi,thedataandoutcomesarenotalwaysstraightforward“keymessages”buthaveto

beanalysedandinterpreted.Ontheleveloftheconceptsassessed,wehighlight“thetop7”concepts,

sotospeakthe“tophalfofthefield”-thosethatshouldreceivespecialattention.

Aclear“top5”conceptsstandout,resultingfromlookingatconceptsthatareratedasachievablequite

quickly,aswellashavingahighimpacteitherontherestorationofthenaturalenvironmentoron

workingconditionsandpoverty5.Inotherwords:Theseconceptscanbebroughttomainstreamwithin

thenextdecade,andthusshouldbeexploredfurther.Theseconceptsare6:

● IncreasedGlobalAwareness:Informationcampaignsfacilitatedthroughconcentratedindustry

effortscreateglobalawarenessfortheneedforaparadigmshifttowardssustainablefashion.

● FibresandProcessingInnovation:Newtypesoffibresandprocessingtechnologiesgomainstreamallowinglow-energyand/orlow-waterprocessing,recyclingandmaintainingof

clothing.

● HighlyDetailedSustainabilityReporting:Sustainabilityreportingismandatoryinalllendingand

investmentagreementswithmajorfinancialinstitutions,basedonacredible,transparentand

certifiedsystem,thusincreasingaccountabilityandenablinglearningfromthesereports.

● Worker-DrivenInitiatives:Themajorityoffashioncompanieshaveembeddedworker-led

processesofsecuringtheprotectionofhumanrights.Theyarebuiltonanindustry-specific

humanrightscodeofconduct,designedbyworkersandtargetedatlongstandingabusesthat

workersintheindustryexperiencefirst-hand.

● HighConcentration(i.e.increasedcooperation):Keyplayersinthefashionindustryworktogetherthrougheitherassetownershiporformalalliances.Keyplayersareeasytoidentifyand

togethertheyareabletoenforcesustainablesolutionsacrossthewholeindustry.

However,forabalancedprioritizationthatdoesnotoverlycentreonearliesttimetomainstream,we

alsohighlighttheleadingtwoconceptsthathadthehighestimpactontherestorationofthenatural

environment,andonworkingconditionsandpoverty,eventhoughtheyfeaturealongertimeto

mainstream.Inotherwords:Abalancedstrategicreflectionwillalsoneedtoconsider(atleast)these

twoconceptswiththehighestimpact,eveniftheywilltakelongertoimplementanddiffuse.Thesetwo

conceptsare:

● ExtendedProducerResponsibility:Mostnationsworldwideenforceextendedproducer

responsibility(forpost-consumerorunsoldgoods)requiringfashioncompaniestoreducetheir

amountofwaste.

5Highimpactdefinedasbeingrankedinthetop5forhighestimpactvalues.

6Pleaseseetherespectivechaptersforfulldefinitionsoftheconcepts.

6

● (Living)WagesintheFashionIndustry:Fairanddecentlivingwagesinthefashionindustryisaworldwidestandardandismonitoredbylocalgovernmentsandglobalinstitutions.

Theresulting“top7”arelinedoutinmoredetailinthestudyitself,followedbyabrieferoutlineforthe

remainingconcepts.

StrategiesNeedtoAddressTwoTimescales

Whiletheexpertsdemandaradicalre-envisioningofafundamentallychangedfuturefashionsystem

andindustry,governedbytheprinciplesofnet-positiveimpacts,theyalsoclearlyseethenecessityto

dealwiththeproblemscausedbythecurrentsystemduringthetransitionperiod.Asaconsequence,

strategiestowardscreatingnet-positivesustainabilityinthefashionindustrywillneedtosimultaneously

paytributeto:

● Addressingcurrentproblemsoftheexistingsystem(suchastheprinciplesofthe“racetothe

bottom”,the“fastfashiontrap”andtheconsequencesofahighlyfragmentedvaluechain,with e.g.persistingproblematicandunjustworkingconditionsformanyinthefashionindustry);

● Whileworkingtowardscreatingafundamentallychangednewsystem-withatitscorea

fundamentallychanged“sustainableconsumptionculture”,andnewbusinessmodelswithre-

use,recyclingandcircularityattheircentre.

PathwaysTowardsSystemicChange:TheTriadofNewNarratives/GlobalAwareness,andanEducationandRegulationPush

WhilelookingattheindividualconceptsfromtheDelphihighlightswhatactionscanandshouldbe

takentoadvancesustainabilityinthefashionindustry(regardingspecificallytheseareasof

change),thequestionsofwhichoverallpathwaystochangearepromising,andwhichfieldsofaction

standoutascuttingacrossthedifferentconcepts,alsoarise.Reflectionsaroundthisparticularly

stressedtheneedforradical,disruptivelong-termchange,whichcouldonlybeenabledwithaholisticandsystemicapproach.Concerningfieldsofactionthatstoodoutascuttingacrosstheconcepts,threefieldscanbeidentified:Firstofall,thereisafocuson“changingthenarrative”,asitwasoftenreferredtointheworkshopdiscussions,or“IncreasedGlobalAwareness”,aspertheoriginalnameoftheconcept.Accordingtotheexperts,thisapproachis

notonlyfeasibletoimplementratherquickly,butalsohastheadvantageofacurrent“windowofopportunity”,withafocusinthepublicdiscourseonthenecessityaswellasfeasibilityofsustainabilityeffortsasvisiblee.g.intheFridaysforFuturemovement.Focusingon“increasedglobalawareness”isregardedasaprerequisite,majorleverandcatalystformakingotheractionsfeasible,andenablingthemtobediffusedgloballyandmorerapidlythanotherwise

possible.

7

Secondly,respectivelychangedpoliticalframeworksareseenasamajorbuildingblocktoaccelerateandenablerapidchangetowardssustainability,withactionsfocusingonchangedincentivese.g.viataxesandlaws,procurementconditionsetc.Andfinally,aneducationfocusisregardedasa“bridge”betweenwhatismainlyabottom-upapproachofincreasedglobalawarenessandthetop-downapproachofchangedpoliticalpriorities.Notonlydoelementsof

aneducationdriveplayaroleformanyoftheconceptsdiscussedinthestudy(withrespective

actionssuchasmainstreamingHolisticCircularDesignFrameworkstoEducationfor

EmpoweringWorkers);theyarealsoseenasamid-termleverforpushingknowledgeaswellasskillsonsustainabilityandtransformationintonotonlythecurrentandnextgenerationofcitizensandconsumers,butalsodesignersanddecision-makers.However,itisimportanttounderstandthatthisfocuswasnotmeantto,asoneparticipantput

it,“startatprimaryschoolandthenwaitfor15yearsuntilthatgenerationhasinfluence”,but

insteadstarteffortsatthelevelofon-the-jobtrainingandtertiaryeducation,buildingonand

scalinguprespectiveexistinginitiatives.

Outlook

Thestudyclearlycontainswhatcanbecalledawake-upmessage.I.e.theconclusionthatifwerelyorrestoncurrenttrendscontinuing,wewillnotbeabletoachievenet-positivesustainability.Itisthusalsoanappealtotheindustrythatmuchmorethanwhatiscurrentlybeingdone,orisintheworks,hastoberealizedtoachievethisgoal.Atthesametime,theresultsofthisstudycontainmany“messagesofencouragement”.Achievingalloftheconceptsfeaturedinthestudyisseenaswithinreach(feasibleinatimelineof16yearsatthemost),ifthenecessarymeasuresaretaken.Onanother

level,weseetheexceptionallevelanddepthofengagementoftheexpertsinvolvedinthestudyas

anotherpointertowardspositivefutureperspectives.Theircommitmentinthisprocess,bringing

togethervoicesfromwidelydifferentdomains,backgroundsandregionsoftheworld,demonstrated

thatdialogueandcooperationacrosstheindustryisdesiredaswellasneeded,fruitfulandachievable.

Thequestionofwhatkindoffutureweaspireto,andwhatwecandocreateit,canbeacatalystin

creatingmoreofthesekindsofmuch-neededopportunitiesforcross-cuttingdialogueandcooperative

strategicthinking.

8

IntroductionandtheProjectContextandAims

Sustainabilityhasmadeittothefrontpagesofthedailynewspapers,intoprimeslotsofmajortelevision

newsshowsandisoneofthetopicsofdebateinanykindofdiscourseaboutthefuture,beitinindustry

orpolicycircles,oramongstthegeneralpublic.Inthefashioncommunitythereflectionaroundthese

issueshasrecentlyintensified,andisvisible,forexample,inreportssuchas“TheTransitiontoGood

Fashion”or“FashionFutures2030”or“CircularProductionandConsumptioninFashionandBeyond”

andvariousotherinitiativesandstudies.

Still,whilethediscourseisinfullswingandincreasingattentionisbeingpaidtotheissuesaround

sustainability,unclarityremainsonthefutureperspectivesofsustainabilityinthefashionsector.Thus,

C&AFoundationcommissionedthisstudytoreflectonthesefutureperspectivesinaDelphi-based

approachwithaselectsetofexperts,withtheaimtouseresultswithintheirownstrategic

programming-butalsotomakethemavailableandusableforthesectorasawhole.

Focusedontheperspectiveofthefutureofsustainabilityinthefashionindustry,thestudyasks:

● Howmuchchangedoestheindustryhavetoundergotoachievesustainability,inthesenseofnet-positiveimpactsfortherestorationoftheenvironmentaswellasforworkingconditions

andpoverty?Orinotherwords:Howfarawayarewefromachievingnet-positivesustainability?

● Whatareopportunitiesforstrategiesaimedatachievingnet-positivesustainability?Which

barrierswouldneedtobeovercome?

● Whatareemergingtrajectoriesorpathwaystowardsachievingnet-positivesustainabilityacrossthefashionindustry?

Methodology-wise,theanswersprovidedwerebroughttogetherwithandonthebasisofinsightsfromagroupofinternationalexperts.ThekeyapproachwasthatofaDelphi-study(intheformofanonline

survey),oneofthekeyforesightmethodologiesthataimsatdevelopingsharedviewsaboutpossible

futuredevelopments.Inthesurvey,twocross-cuttingquestionswereposedaroundtheprogress

towardssustainability,whiletherestofthesurveyfocusedon14specificfuturehypotheses(called

conceptsinthefollowingpages,touseamoreaccessibleterm).Thisapproachwassupplementedbyexpertinterviewsaswellasaworkshop,whichbuiltonandrefinedthesurveyresults.Theworkshopespeciallyfocusedontheperspectivesofopportunities(andonitsflipside,barrierstoovercome)for

achievingsustainabilityinthefashionindustry,aswellasemergingpathways.

Thus,thisstudyrestsontheinsightsfromthetwenty-fiveexpertswhocontributed.Somemightregard

thisasa“small”group,anditcertainlyisnot“representative”inthetraditionalsense.However,inspite

ofthegroupsize,orevenbecauseofit,weregardtheviewsexpressedashighlyvalid,andtheresults

9

emergingfromthestudyassolid-foranumberofreasons.Firstofall,recentexperienceswithsmaller

groupsofDelphicontributorshaveshowntoactuallyproducehigherqualityresultsthanoftenproduced

bylargergroupsofcontributors(duetoe.g.averystrictselectionprocessaswellasthelimitedsize

enablingadeeperconversationprocesswithinthegroup,whichisatthecoreoftheDelphi

methodology).Therefore,thegroupsizewasasitis,intentionally.Secondly,theselectionprocesswithin

thisprojectwasextremelythorough,basedoncriteria-ledresearch,andbringingtogetheradiverse

groupwithhighexpertise,fromamixofcountriesacrossmajorworldregions,andavarietyof

backgrounds(suchasacademia,non-profit,industry,etc.).Andfinally,thelevelofengagementfromthe

expertswasexceptionallyhigh,bothtime-wiseandconcerningthequalityanddepthofcontent

provided,butevenmorenoticeablysowithrespecttotheexpertsopennessinthedialogueprocess.

Theircommitmenttothinkingandreflectingtogether,andasagrouparrivingatnewinsights-wasa

highlyimportantcontributingfactortothestrengthofthestudy.

Atthesametime,therearecaveatsthatcomewiththisstudy.Aswithanypieceofworkthatlooksinto

thefuture,wehavetostressthatitisnotmeanttopaintanexactpictureofwhatistocome.However,

itsharesawell-informedviewof,ontheonehand,whattoprobablyexpectifwecontinueonthepath

weareoncurrently.Onetheotherhand,italsolinesoutwhatisfeasibleassumingthatavarietyof

measuresaretakenbyactorsfromacrossthefield,andlinesoutthepathwaysandactionstotaketoget

toaradicallysustainablefutureforthesector.Wethushopetheseresultswillbereceivedwitha

“foresightmindset”-amindsetcharacterizedbytheopennesstoquestionone’sownassumptions,and

afocusontheactionsneededtocreateadesirablefuture.

10

KeyInsightswithAViewAcrosstheDelphiConcepts

CurrentTrendsAreNotSufficienttoAchieveNet-PositiveImpacts:StrongAdditionalEffortsNeeded

Howtomeasureprogresstowardssustainabilitycanbeamatterofdebate.Nevertheless,mostwill

agreethatthelastdecadeshaveseenmajorprogressintermsofwhatcanbecalledaparadigmshift

towardssustainability.Butiswhatwearedoingtoday“enough”?Willitgetustonet-positive

sustainability,intermsoftheimpactontherestorationoftheenvironment,aswellasonworking

conditionsandpoverty?

Image:Possibilityofthefashionindustryhavinganetpositiveimpactassumingthecontinuationof

currenttrends

11

Theexpertssay:Itwillnot.TheoutcomeoftheDelphionline-survey7thusconveysaclearmessage:

Assumingthatcurrenttrendscontinue,themajorityofDelphiexpertsdonotregardanet-positive

impactofthefashionindustryasachievable:75%regardthisasinfeasiblefortherestorationofthe

naturalenvironment,and62%regardthisasinfeasibleforworkingconditionsandpoverty.However,

thisdoesnotmeanthatanet-positiveimpactoneitherisunachievableassuch.Instead,strongerand

moreradicaleffortsthanvisibleincurrenttrendswillbeneededtoacceleratechangeandthusmakea

net-positiveimpactpossible.TheactionsattributedtoalloftheconceptsrankedintheDelphiexemplify

whatsucheffortscanbe.

AllConceptsWithinReach:GivenAdditionalEfforts,AllConceptsCouldReachMainstreamin5to16YearsForalloftheconceptsevaluatedinthestudy,theexpertsalsoestimatedthesocalled“earliesttimeto

mainstream”or“ETM”.Thisreferstowheneachoftheseconceptscouldbecomeamainstream

phenomenon-undertheassumptionsthatstrongeffortsaretakenbyrespectiveactors.8

Theoverallpictureoftheassessmentsofwhenconceptscouldreachmainstreamisstriking:Theearliest

timetomainstreamforallindividualconceptsisexpectedtobe“withinreach”.Infact,allconceptsare

assessedasbeingachievableby2035,i.e.within16yearsatmost.Thelargemajorityoftheconcepts

arefeasibleoverthemedium-term(in5to15years),andtwothirdscouldevenreachmainstream

withinthenextdecade-again,onlyiftherespectiveeffortsaretaken.9Foronlyoneconcept-the

majorityofclothingislocallyproduced-,ETMisassessedasbeingachievableoverthelong-term,i.e.

within16yearsattheearliest.Ontheotherendofthespectrum,oneconceptstoodoutasbeingableto

becomemainstreamwithinashorttime-frame(amere5years)-theconceptofincreasedglobal

awareness.

Respectively,theETMtimelinesindicatethatwhiletheexpertsseecurrenttrendsasinsufficientfor

achievingnet-positivesustainability,theyalsoregardthechangeneeded(asexpressedinthedifferent

concepts)aspossible–giventhatrespectiveadditionalefforts,goingbeyondwhatiscurrentlybeing

done,areinfactrealised.Thequestionisthus:Howcanthisbeachieved?Wewilllinethisoutinmore

detailinthefollowingpages.

7Inadditiontoassessingthedifferentconcepts,theDelphionlinesurveyalsoaskedparticipantstoreflectongeneralprogresstowardssustainabilityinthefashionindustry,specificallythetimelinesforachievinganetpositiveimpact.Expertswereasked

whether,giventheassumptionthatcurrenttrendscontinue,theywouldexpectanet-positiveimpactofthefashionindustryto

beachievableintermsofrestorationofthenaturalenvironmentaswellasintermsofworkingconditionsandpoverty.8 Fordetailsoneachterm,conceptdefinitionandquestioninthestudy,pleaseseetheannex. 9 However,asthestandarddeviationforassessmentsoftheETMwasrelativelyhigh,outcomesshouldbetreatedasan

indicationonlyratherthanasapreciseprediction:Theyrepresentonlytheaverageexpectationoftheexperts,whohave

somewhatdivergingviewsconcerningtheETMperconcept.

12

Image: Timeline of concepts regarding Earliest Time to Mainstream (ETM), with ranks preceding the concepts 10

10 Valuesarerounded,fordetailsofallvaluespleaseseereportannex.Valuesprecedingtheconceptsareranks,fromthe

EarliestTimetoMainstreamtothelatest.“=“indicatesthatmorethanoneconcepttakesthisrank(withthefollowingrank

thenbeing“skipped”intherankcount).

13

“TheTop7”ConceptsFosteringSustainabilityintheFashionIndustry

Inthefollowingresultssummary,tointerprettheexperts’insights,wenotonlyshowtheaggregated

responsestoindividualquestionsfromtheDelphionline-survey,butwealsogofurtherindrawingfrom

theparticipantsdiscoursearoundtheissuesasgiveninover250commentsinthediscussionthreadsof

theDelphionlinesurvey,andtherichreflectionintheworkshop.AswithanyDelphi,thedataand

outcomesarenotalwaysstraightforward“keymessages”butneedtobeanalysedandinterpreted.

SomemessagescutacrosstheindividualconceptsratedintheonlineDelphisurvey,andarelinedout

separately.Butontheleveloftheconceptsassessed,wehighlight“thetop7”concepts,sotospeakthe

“tophalfofthefield”-thosethatshouldreceivespecialattention.11

Fromthefirstanalysis,aclear“top5”conceptsstoodoutimmediately,resultingfromlookingat

conceptsthatareratedasachievablequitequickly,aswellashavingahighimpacteitheronthe

restorationofthenaturalenvironmentoronworkingconditionsandpoverty(highimpactbeingdefined

asbeingrankedinthetop5forhighestimpactvalues).Inotherwords:Theseconceptscanbebrought

tomainstreamwithinthenextdecade-andthusshouldbeexploredfurther.Theseconceptsare:

● IncreasedGlobalAwareness

● FibresandProcessingInnovation

● HighlyDetailedSustainabilityReporting

● Worker-DrivenInitiatives

● HighConcentration/Cooperation12

However,forabalancedprioritizationthatdoesnotoverlycentreonearliesttimetomainstream,we

alsoaddedthetwoconceptsthathadthehighestimpactontherestorationofthenaturalenvironment

andonworkingconditionsandpoverty,eventhoughtheyfeaturealongertimetomainstream.These

“top7”willbelinedoutinmoredetailinthefollowingsections,followedbyabrieferoutlineforthe

remainingconcepts.Inotherwords:Abalancedstrategywillalsoneedtoconsider(atleast)thosetwo

conceptswiththehighestimpact,eveniftheywilltakelongertoimplementanddiffuse.Thesetwo

conceptsare:

● ExtendedProducerResponsibility

● WagesintheFashionIndustry

11Therearealsootherreasonablewaystoprioritize.Forexample,anorganizationfocusingonlyonlong-termsystemicchange

(withlessofafocusoncurrentproblems)coulddisregardETM,orgiveitlessweight;anorganizationfocusingespeciallyon

workingconditionswouldprioritizeconceptswithhighimpactinthatfield.Toenableaviewatallconceptsforsuchpurposes,

andotherpossiblewaysofprioritization,allassessmentsaresharedintheannex.12Inpreviousreports,thisconceptwasreferredtosolelyas‘HighConcentration’.However,duetoreasonsofclarity,this

conceptnowhasthetitle‘HighConcentration/Cooperation’.

14

Image:Top7conceptsalongtheratingsintheDelphi,top7highlightedinblue

15

Image:ConceptsETMandimpactonrestorationofthenaturalenvironment

Image:ConceptsETMandimpactonworkingconditionsandpoverty

16

Overviewof“TheTop7”Concepts IncreasedGlobalAwareness

FibresandProcessingInnovation

HighlyDetailedSustainabilityReporting

Worker-DrivenInitiatives

HighConcentration/Cooperation

ExtendedProducerResponsibility

WagesintheFashionIndustry

17

ChangingtheNarrativevia“IncreasedGlobalAwareness”

InitialDefinition:Globalsustainabilityawarenessraisingstrategyislaunched.13

Global“marketing”strategyfocusedonraisingawarenessandincreasing

educationaroundsustainabilityissuesislaunched.Itisaconcentratedeffortby

amajorsegmentofthefashionindustry-withkeyplayersallspeakinginone

voice.Thestrategycoversmanydifferentchannels,anditsmessagesare

adaptedandtargetedtobemeaningfulandrelevantineveryregionofthe

world.

“Extinction Rebellion, Schools for Climate Strikes, Fashion Revolution are examples of this starting to happen. Academic institutions can also teach the long-term thriving of graduates alongside their short-term employment.”14 (Expertquote)

Raisingglobalawarenesscouldbecomemainstreaminaslittleas5yearsaccordingtotheexperts,andwithonlyaslightvarianceintheiropinions(leaststandarddeviationofallconceptsat2.5years).While

theconceptofraisingglobalawarenessachievedhighscoresbothinregardstorestorationofthenaturalenvironment(2.4,ranked8th)andworkingconditionsandpoverty(2.3,ranked2nd=).

Linesofaction:

As lines of actions (i.e. respective strategic options for the industry as awhole), the experts stressedespecially:

● Globalcoalition:Thecreationofatrulyglobalcoalitionacrosstheindustryandthewholevalue-chain,totrulyacceleratedisruptivetransformationtoasustainablefashionsystem,with

coordinatedmessaging(potentiallyreachingoutbeyondthesectorandincludinge.g.“lawyers

13 Inthisdefinition,andinthoseinthefollowingrespectivesections,wefirstshowthestatementperthesesexactlyaswas

assessedintheDelphi,aswellastheadditionaldescriptionoftheconcept,againexactlyasitwasdescribedintheDelphi.

Sometimes,thediscussionoftheconceptsintheDelphionline-surveyaswellasintheexpertworkshopledtoaslight

reframingoftheconcept,whichisreflectedhereviaadditionalinformationinthelinesofaction. 14 Hereandintheotherchaptersonindividualconcepts,weshareaselectedquotefromtheexpertsfromthecommentsand

discussionsectionoftheDelphi.Insomecases,thesequoteshavebeenmodifiedveryslightlytocorrecttypographicalerrors

andtoimproveunderstanding.Incontrast,inthedetailedresultsintheAnnexthecommentshavebeenpresentedwithoutany

modification.

18

againstworkers’andenvironmentalexploitation”).Thiswouldgowidelybeyondexisting

initiativesandbringtogetherallactorswithinthefashionsystem,fromsmall-scaleNGOsor

worker’sinitiativestolargebrands,andsystematicallyreachoutbeyondthesector.The

incentiveforthisinitiativeisseeninacurrentsenseofurgencyespeciallyaroundenvironmental

/climatechangerelatedtopics,buildinge.g.ontheFridaysforFuturemovementandpresent

mediaattention,withe.g.manycitizensbeingincreasingly“implored”bytheyounger

generationintermsofaccountabilityandaction,andbusinessesbeingunderincreasing

pressuretodemonstratesustainablepractices.Thecoalition’sfocuswouldbeonenablingradicalchange(noton“marketing”inthesenseofgreenwashing),e.g.bymakingtransparent

whatkindofchangeispossibleandwhereitisfeasible,whattheimplicationsforconsumer

behaviourare,etc.

● Cooperationwithinfluencersandsocialmedia,aswellasoverallmediaandthearts/culture,

utilizingstorytellingprinciples.Forafar-reachingapproachthatnotonlyintensifiesexisting

approaches,itwouldalsoneedtobridgetop-downandbottom-upapproachesandinitiatives,

suchasconnectingsmallerscaleworkers’andconsumers’orcommunitysideinitiativeswith

globalmedia,largebrands’orglobalNGOinitiatives.

● Changednarrative:Thecriticalroleofarespectivelychangednarrativearoundsustainabilityasaleverformoreradicalfollow-upchangesinthearenaofpolicyandbusinesspractices–ifthis

weretobeimplementedonatrulyglobalandfar-reachingscale,goingwidelybeyondexisting

initiatives,itwouldenableanaccelerationofchangeandalsopavethewayforradicallychangedpoliticalframeworksviathetransformationofcitizens’andconsumers’attitudesandawareness.Itrefersalsotoapositiveframingofachangedconsumptionculture(withafocus

onhigherqualityconsumption,lessonquantityinthefastfashionparadigm).

19

FibresandProcessing:StrongPositiveImpactsonthe

Environment

InitialDefinition:Newtypesoffibresandprocessingtechnologiesopenupnewpossibilities.

Anewgenerationoffibresandprocessingtechnologiesgomainstreamallowing

low-energyand/orlow-waterrecyclingofclothingandanet-positiveimpact(on

theenvironment)duringprocessingandmaintaining.

“A greater use of technology in general to solve some of our social and environmental challenges would help push the science along.” (Expertquote)

Fibresandprocessinginnovationwasassessedashavingastronglypositiveimpactontheenvironment(2.9,ranked2nd); butlesseffectivewithregardtotheimpactonworkingconditionsandpoverty(0.9,

ranked10th). Itisexpectedthattheconceptcouldbecomemainstreaminlessthanadecade(8.3years,withacomparablylowstandarddeviationof3.77).

Linesofaction:

Aslinesofactions(i.e.respectivestrategicoptionsfortheindustryasawhole),theexpertsstressed

especially:

● Existingsustainablepractices:Supportfortransferandscalingofexistingsustainablepracticesand(materials)solutions,especiallyforthosewhicharealreadycost-effective.

● RaisinginvestmentsinrespectiveR&D(publicandprivatesector);alsoutilizingthepotentialofnewfundingmodels,e.g.crowdfunding,foradvancesinthesefieldsincludingapushfornew

businessmodels.Raisedinvestmentswouldbeseenasalevertoenablesolutionsimplying

higherup-frontcosts,andrespectivepoliticalincentivese.g.changedframeworkstowards

lifecyclecostapproachesandextendedproducerresponsibilitywouldhelp.

● Educationandnetworking:Progresshereneedstobesupportedbyarespectiveeducationandnetworkingpush;e.g.viaa“qualitativecircularholisticdesignframework”(createdbyagroup

ofexpertsonLCA,systemdesignandfashion&textileindustry,includingroadmapsforawide

rangeofproducttypesoverthenext25years,utilizingopensourceprinciples).

20

HighlyDetailedSustainabilityReporting:Mid-termFeasibility,

HightoMediumImpacts

InitialDefinition:Highlydetailedsustainabilityreportingismandatoryinalllendingandinvestmentagreementswithmajorfinancialinstitutions.

Themajorityoffinancinginstitutions(banks,investmentfunds,etc.)require

companieswithinthefashionindustrytomaintainacrediblesystemfor

documentingdatainareassuchaspurchasingpractices,wages,otherworking

conditions,chemicalusageandtheenvironmentalimpactoftheirproducts,etc.

Thisisnecessaryiftheywishtoobtainfinancing.Companieswithinthefashion

industrymaydothisviaacertifiedstandardsystem.

“Define verifiable, credible and comparable standards for social and environmental impact - particularly those aligned with the 2030 SDGs. Start measuring and reporting publicly to stakeholders.” (Expertquote)

Theimpactofhighlydetailedsustainabilityreportingwasassessedparticularlyfavourablyinregardtoworkingconditionsandpoverty(1.9,ranked5th=),whileslightlylessfavourably,butstillpositive,inregardtotheenvironment(1.8,ranked10th).Expertsbelievetheconceptcouldbecomemainstreambefore2030(8.6years,withacomparablylowstandarddeviationof3.39).

Linesofaction:

Aslinesofactions(i.e.respectivestrategicoptionsfortheindustryasawhole),theexpertsstressed

especially:

● Globalstandards:Establishmentofcomparable,globalstandards(includingrespective

regulationandotherpolicy-ledincentives,e.g.viaprocurementrules),thatarelargely

enforceable,whichimpliesstrongergovernmentalregulationandoversight,possiblyfollowing

themodelofmandatoryfinancialreporting.Inordertodrivetransparencyandaccountability,

whilealsoutilizingthepotentialofdata-driveninsights.Whilealsoaimingtoenablereal

learningacrosstheindustryfromsustainabilityreports,whichinthisunderstandingarenotseen

asacommunicationormarketingapproachbutasalearning,accountabilityandtransparency

lever,embeddedintostrategicdecision-makingprocesses,as“reportingwithaclearpurpose,

andwithstrongconsequences”.

21

● Educationparadigmshiftswitharespectivediffusionofskillsandtoolstoeaseimplementation,

(“10yearplantoraisea(sustainability-focusedand-skilled)generation”),includingexchanges

between“consumerandproducercountries”.

● Theleverofinvestmentandthefinanceindustry,ifthefinanceindustryweretoutilizesustainabilityreporting(muchmorethantheydotoday),thusincreasingincentivesforthe

fashionindustrytoreporttransparently.

22

Worker-drivenInitiatives:Mid-TermFeasibility,HighImpactfor

WorkingConditions

InitialDefinition:ThemajorityoffashioncompanieshaveembeddedWorker-DrivenInitiatives.

Worker-DrivenInitiativesareworker-ledprocessesofsecuringtheprotectionof

humanrights.Theyarebuiltonanindustry-specifichumanrightscodeof

conduct,designedbyworkersandtargetedatlongstandingabusesthatworkers

intheindustryexperiencefirst-hand.

“There is a need to create change on various levels simultaneously – from legislation regarding collective bargaining and a range of social and environmental protections, through to recognizing the vital contribution that small, location specific groups of people can achieve in a community.” (Expertquote)

Whileitispossibleworkerdriveninitiativescouldbecomemainstreaminunder10years(8.8years,withacomparablyhighstandarddeviationof5.32),theimpactofworker-driveninitiativeswasassessed

asparticularlylow-impactwithregardtotherestorationofthenaturalenvironment(0.4,ranked14th).However,theconceptratedhigherforimpactonworkingconditionsandpoverty(2.1,ranked4th).

Linesofaction:

Aslinesofactions(i.e.respectivestrategicoptionsfortheindustryasawhole),theexpertsstressed

especially:

● Training,educationandnetworking:Empowermentofindividualsviatraining/educationand

networking–globallyandonamuchwiderscalethantoday,withtheaimofbeingaccessibleto

nearlyeveryworker.

● Localinitiatives:Supportforlocalinitiativesfromglobalnetworksandpartners,e.g.viathe

globalcoalition(see“increasedglobalawareness”),increasedvisibilityandreachviasocial

media–againgloballyandonamuchwiderscalethantoday,withtheaimofbeingaccessibleto

nearlyeveryworker;facilitationof“tripartiteconventions”(workers/unionsplusstateand

employers).

23

● Retraining:Thefundamentalroleofretrainingprogramsforgarmentworkersinthefaceof

rapidcurrentchange,especiallyinproductiontechnologies.Thereisahighriskthatthisrapid

changenegativelyaffectsthosewiththelowesteducationlevel,implyinganeedtoimplement

retrainingprogramswhereneeded,andimprovetheiraccessibility.Retrainingisalsonecessary

todealwiththepotentialeffectsofautomation,enablingtransferintonewrolesandtasks

whererapidautomationtakesplace,whichwasregardedasapotentiallyproblematicfuture

developmentifnotaccompaniedbywidelyavailableretraining.

24

HighConcentration/Cooperation:Mid-TermFeasibility,

StrongImpactsforEnvironmentandWorkingConditions

InitialDefinition:Keyplayersinthefashionindustryworktogethertoenforceindustry-widesustainablesolutions.

Thefashionindustryishighlyconsolidated/concentratedthrougheitherasset

ownershiporformalalliances.Keyplayersareeasytoidentifyandtogetherthey

areabletoenforcesustainablesolutionsacrossthewholeindustry.

“Have a mastermind-like cohort that aids the industry and is comprised of specialists in all the areas of “sustainability” The global players have to go through that one body to deliver messages on what they are actually doing. Imagine Clean Clothes Campaign meets the NRDC yet they work together as one.” (Expertquote)

Worldwideindustrycollaboration,asexpressedinthisconcept,wouldhaveagreatimpactontheenvironment(2.6,ranked5th=)andalargeimpactonworkingconditionsandpoverty(2.3,ranked2nd=),accordingtotheexperts.Furthermore,thiscouldbeachievedwithinadecade(8.9years,withahighstandarddeviationof5.21).

Linesofaction:

Aslinesofactions(i.e.respectivestrategicoptionsfortheindustryasawhole),theexpertsstressed

especially:

● Opendata:Theleveroftransparentandopendatatoincreasedataavailabilityalongthewholevaluechain.

● Collaborationspecificallybetweenthemajorplayersontheconsumptionandproductionside,

e.g.viacommunitiesofpractice,theglobalcoalitionenvisaged(see“increasedglobal

awareness”),agreementsonstandards,etc.Thiswouldbepushedbye.g.higherandmandatory

globalstandardsforsustainabilityreporting.Further,incentivesarealsoseen,asinthecaseof

“globalawareness”inacurrentsenseofurgencyespeciallyaroundenvironmental/climate

changerelatedtopics,andbusinessesbeingunderincreasingpressuretodemonstrate

sustainablepractices.

25

● Interdisciplinary,“on-demand-teams”:Collaborationasakeytodealwiththecurrentshortcomingswithinahighlyfragmentedvaluechain:Supportfornetworks,creating“sharing

systemsforsuccessfulactionstowardssustainability”andglobal,interdisciplinary“on-demand-

supportteams”forimplementingsustainabilitymeasures.

26

ExtendedProducerResponsibility(EPR):Highestimpactonthe

environment

InitialDefinition:Worldwideintroductionofextendedproducerresponsibilityinthefashionindustry.Mostnationsenforceextendedproducerresponsibility(forpost-consumeror

unsoldgoods)requiringfashioncompaniestoreducetheiramountofwaste.

“Now we do have technologies (such AI and Blockchain) to trace the value chain, implement smart contracts and require accountability and responsibility for all the chain.” (Expertquote)

ExpertsbelievethatEPRcouldbecomemainstreamwithinadecade(9.7 years withamediumstandard

deviationof5.13years).WhilerankingtheimpactthatEPRwouldhaveontherestorationofthenatural

environmentasthehighestofallconcepts(3.1).AlthoughplacingEPRinthemiddleofthefieldfor

impactonworkingconditionsandpoverty(1.3,ranked9th).

Linesofaction:

Aslinesofactions(i.e.respectivestrategicoptionsfortheindustryasawhole),theexpertsstressed

especially:

● Garnerwidespreadpublicsupportforthistypeoflegislation,asconsumersincreasinglystand

behindeffortstorecycleanddisposeresponsibly.

● Realgainsareatsystemlevel,bygovernmentandcorporations,withlegislationtargetingproductionandpackagingstandardsbeforeproductsevenentertheconsumer-sidesystem.

● Harnessalreadyexistingtechnologies(suchasAIandBlockchain)totraceproductsalongthevaluechain,implementsmartcontractsandrequireaccountabilityandresponsibilityforall

(playersin)thechain.

27

WagesintheFashionIndustry:Highestimpactonworking

conditionsandpoverty

InitialDefinition:Fairanddecentlivingwageinthefashionindustryisaworldwidestandard.

Everyfashionindustryworkerearnsafairlivingwage,whichissetaccordingto

theregion’scostofliving.Companies’complianceingrantingthisfairliving

wagetoallemployeesismonitoredbylocalgovernmentsandglobal

institutions.

“At a time when the race to the bottom in search of cheaper wages shows little sign of abatement, the idea that all governments will set a realistic minimum wage, let alone a fair living wage, seems inconceivable.” (Expertquote)

Theimpactoffairwagesinthefashionindustrywasassessedveryhighforworkingconditionsandpoverty(3.5,ranked1st),butcomparablylowwithregardtotherestorationofthenaturalenvironment

(0.9,ranked12th).However,theexpertsbelievethisinitiativewouldtakeawhiletogetofftheground,

withitnotlikelytobecomemainstreambefore2030(ETMof12.4yearswithahighstandarddeviation

of5.78years).

Linesofaction:

Aslinesofactions(i.e.respectivestrategicoptionsfortheindustryasawhole),theexpertsstressed

especially:

● Self-regulation:Stimulate,pushorincentivizethatcompaniesdisclosetheirvaluechainand

certifyFairLabour(byusinglivingwageasminimumstandard),whilealsoengagingwith

consumersaboutsuchastandard.Thiswouldbepushedstronglybyimplementedmandatory

highlytransparent,standardizedsustainabilityreporting.

● Cooperationbetweenfashionbrandsandtheirfullsupplychaintochangeonepartner,insteadofswitchingproductiontoaregionwhereproductionischeaper.Cooperationwithother

sectors,i.e.joiningforcesincreatinginitiativesaimedatimprovingworkingconditionsand

wagesincomparablesectorswouldalsoincreaseleverage.

● Lawenforcementandoversightfromlocalgovernmentsisneededtoensurethatfairand

decentlivingwagesareguaranteed.

28

ResultsfortheRemaining7Concepts

ClothingasaService

AutomationRevolution

CircularEconomy

ConsumerLevelSustainabilityIndex

Resale/Second-handModels

MajorityofClothingisLocallyProduced

TaxRegulationsforIncreasingSustainability

29

ClothingasaService

InitialDefinition:'Clothingasaservice'becomesthemainbusinessmodelinthefashionindustry.“Fastfashion”and“take-make-waste”arenolongerthepreeminentbusiness

modelsinthefashionindustry.Leasingclothing,monthlysubscriptions,

exchangingusedclothesforshopdiscountsandmanyotherservice-based

modelsformthecoreofthefashionindustry.

“Clothing as a service could incentivize design of higher quality clothing which could withstand many wears, reducing demand and therefore industry's natural resource dependency.” (Expertquote)

Expertsassessedthattherealizationofthisconceptwouldhaveastrongimpactontherestorationofthenaturalenvironment(2.8),butaratherlowimpactonworkingconditionsandpoverty(0.7).Itisthe3rd=highestrankedconceptinregardtoenvironmentalimpact,whereasitisoneoftheleastimpactfulconceptsonworkingconditionsandpoverty(11th).Estimatedtimetomainstreamisinthemedium-termrangeat12.4yearswithahighlydispersedstandarddeviationof6.51years.

Regardingfuturetrends,thereisconsensusthattechnologicalinnovationsandtheproblemoflimited

resourceswillboosttherentingbusiness.Also,itisalmostunequivocallyassumedthatthemainbarriers

toachievementarethenegativeeffectsofclothingontheenvironment(whicharenotexpectedto

change)suchasdrycleaning,packaging,shippingandlogistics.Onlyinafewcommentswasit

mentionedthattointroducethisinnovation,aparadigmshiftinconsumer'swillingnessofowning

second-handclothingisrequired.Themajorityofrespondentsalsoagreethatclothingasaservicewill

resultinbetterqualityclothesandpotentiallybetterjobswhichwouldalsorequireupskillingworkers.

30

AutomationRevolution InitialDefinition:Advancedautomationtechnologiesreplacehumansinmostproductionareasofthefashionindustry.Advancedautomationtechnologiesdramaticallyreducelabourcontentofgarment

production,processing,manufacturingandlogisticswhileatthesametime

significantlyreducingTimetoMarket.

“The impact of automation depends on the aims of automation - if they are to protect workers and better value nature - then engage in automation possibilities accordingly. If the aim is to increase margins, reduce social responsibility, increase production and throughput, then the results will be detrimental to workers and to nature.” (Expertquote)

Theimpactofanautomationrevolutionontherestorationofthenaturalenvironmentwasassessedratherlow(0.8)andjudgednegativelyforworkingconditionsandpoverty(-0.9).Itisthe2ndlowestgradedconceptregardingtheenvironmentandwasgradedlastinregardtoworkingconditionsandpoverty.Automationrevolutionistheleastfavourablyrankedofalltheconceptspresented.Estimatedtimetomainstreamisinthemedium-termrangeat9.9yearswithacomparablylowstandarddeviationof4.25years.

Manyrespondentsstatedthatthebiggestbarrierswerelinkedtopotentiallayoffsandasaconsequence

-declininglevelsofemployment-duetoautomation.However,participantsmostlyagreedthat

universalbasicincomewouldbeafacilitatingsolutionaswellasnecessaryupskillingandretraining

workshops.Notably,respondentsmostlydisagreedwiththecommentthatfullautomationmightlead

toequalizationinincomesandapositiveimpactontheenvironment.However,itisalsotobenoted

thatinthedebateintheexpert’sworkshopspecifically,therewasahighlevelofdisagreementonhow

quicklyautomationcouldandwouldprobablybediffusedinthishighlyfragmentedindustry,andthat

someexpertsawalongertimelineforthesedevelopmentsasmorerealistic.

31

CircularEconomy

InitialDefinition:ThefashionindustryoperatesaccordingtoCircularEconomyprinciples.

CircularEconomy-asystemofinteractionandexchangethattreatstheearthas

“onehousehold”.Thissystemviewsworkingconditions,povertyandrestoration

ofthenaturalenvironmentasopportunitiestocreatevalue,includingmakinga

net-positiveimpact:soeachpurchase,product,place,processandpolicy

enhancesthequalityoflife,tostrengthentheintegrityofcomplexsystemssuch

aslandscapes,culturesandcommunities.

“Unless there are tariffs, taxes, and extended producer responsibility legislation put into place to support the circularity, it's not going to happen.” (Expertquote)

Participantsevaluatedtheimpactofintroducingacirculareconomicmodelhighlyfortheenvironment(2.8)andpositivelyforworkers(1.6).Theconceptranked3rd=regardingtheenvironmentand8thregardingworkingconditionsandpoverty.Estimatedtimetomainstreamisinthelong-termrangeat12.2yearswithamediumstandarddeviationof5.09years.Importanttonoteisthatrespondentsfocusedmoreonbarrierstochange,ratherthanonsolutions.A

majorityofcommentersmentionedprofitmotives,alackofsmartpublicpolicies,globalizationandthe

unwillingnessforaculturechangewithinthefashionindustryasthemainhurdles.Further,participants

notedthatlittleconsiderationisgiventotheopportunitiesbycompaniesandgovernmentsthatwould

becreatedwiththeintroductionofacirculareconomyregardingsocialinjusticeandsocialinequality.

32

ConsumerLevelSustainabilityIndex

InitialDefinition:Aconsumerlevelsustainabilityindexiswidelyusedbyshoppers.Asmartphone(orotherfuturemobiledevice)applicationorsimplepointofsale

toolinformsandeducatesconsumersaboutpurchasingdecisions.Similarto

(andascommonas)foodlabelling,butinsteadofnutritionalfactsitprovides

crediblesustainabilityfacts,suchastheamountofwaterusedduring

productionorchemicalusage.Theotherpossibilitywouldbetocreatean

aggregatedsustainabilityindex.

“I do think that the consumer’s choice is a very important key to change the industry’s choices.” (Expertquote)

Theimpactofaconsumerlevelsustainabilityindexwasassessedinthemediumrangeforbothenvironmentalimpact(2.1)andimpactonworkingconditionsandpoverty(1.9).Thisconceptwasrankedin9thplaceregardingenvironmentalimpactandin5thplaceregardingimpactonworkers.Estimatedtimetomainstreamisinthemedium-termrangeat9.5yearswithamediumstandarddeviationof5.51years.

Amajorityofparticipantssharedthenotionthattechnologicaltoolssuchasphoneapplicationscouldbe

effectiveinstrumentsinfosteringthedevelopmentofaconsumerlevelsustainabilityindex.Examples

mentionedinthecommentsrefertoenvironmentalfootprintanalysisandenvironmentalprofitandloss

accountcalculators.Thesemeasureswouldalsobedirectlyaimedattraditionalproductionmodelsand

unsustainablesupplychains.Especiallyimportantinthatregardisthattheconsumerisputinthedriving

seatasanactiveparticipator.Concerninghurdlestochange,theexpertsnotedthatsimplifiedrating

systems,basedonaveragecalculations,willnotbeabletodisplaydetailedinformationandmight

attractcontroversy.Theconceptwasseenashavinganexceptionallyhighextentofconnectionsto,and

synergywith,otherconcepts,e.g.itwouldunderpinandsupport“globalawareness”aswellas“highly

detailedsustainabilityreporting”.

33

Resale/Second-handModels

InitialDefinition:Themajorityofclothingcompaniesintroducearesale/second-handbusinessmodeltotheirprofile.Resaleorsecond-handisnowacommonbusinessmodelinthefashionindustry.

Nearlyhalfofallstockinretailstorescomesfromthesecond-handmarket.

Clothingdesignhaschangedtofittheneedsofthisnewbusinessmodel-

clothesarenoweasiertorepairandalter.

“Thinking differently about what this means in different cultures, locations, age groups, professions - rather than a one size fits all, the idea of vintage, sharing clothes, re-use - this is a huge creative opportunity - to find distinction that is relevant and appropriate at a particular scale/place or a range of scales. This is about a diverse set of models.” (Expertquote)

Theideaofresale/second-handmodelsachievedahighestimatedimpactregardingtheenvironment(2.6),andalowestimatedimpact(0.6)regardingworkingconditionsandpoverty.Theconceptrankedin5th=positionwithrespecttoimpactontheenvironment,whereasitrankedinoneofthelastpositions(12th=)regardingtheimpactonworkingconditionsandpoverty.Estimatedtimetomainstreamisinthemid-termrangeat9.1yearswithacomparablylowstandarddeviationof4.82years.Whiletheconceptingeneralwasdescribedasapositivephenomenonandstepintherightdirectionto

fightoverproductionandquantityofunsoldstock,mostcommentshighlightedobstacleswithrespectto

realizationandeffectiveimplementation.Respondentsoftenreportedtheriskofsellingsecond-hand

clothestopoorSub-SaharanorLatinAmericancountries,whichmightinconsequencecausenotonly

socialbutalsoenvironmentalproblemsduetolargewastestockanddumpedprices.Moreover,the

abilitytoreuseclothesrequireshigh-qualityproductsinthefirstinstanceanddemonstratestheneed

forindustrywideimprovedqualitystandards.Accordingtoparticipants,oneenablerofwidely,thus

radicallyintroducingresalebusinessmodelscouldbecompaniesandbrandsimplementingtake-back

programs,ideallyaccompaniedbytaxreliefsandothertaxincentives.Additionally,respondents

highlightedtheneedforinnovativesolutionsaimedatdecreasingthequantityofunsoldstockby

transformingitintosaleableclothing.Besides,itwasstrikingtoseethatmostcommentsmade

referencestoalreadyestablishedresalebusinessesandillustratedthefactthatthesepracticesalready

existwithintoday’sindustry.

34

MajorityofClothingisLocallyProduced

InitialDefinition:Themajorityofclothingislocallyproduced.Thefashionindustry’svaluechainismadeupofthousandsoflocalchains.This

modelgeneratesbenefitsfromboththephenomenonofnear-shoringof

productionandtheinnovativetechnologiesenablingtheself-productionof

clothesbycustomers(automaticsewingmachines,3Dprinting,spray-on

clothes,etc.).Thefashionvaluechainisnolongeralargeglobalchaininwhich

eachlinkislocatedindifferentpartsoftheworld.

“Reshoring or near shoring manufacturing would require huge investment in training, alongside higher wages, higher energy bills, etc. Even with greater automation, there would still need to be millions of garment workers working locally to supply the major hubs of consumption.” (Expertquote)

Thelocalproductionofclothingwasassessedashavingarelativelylowimpactontherestorationofthenaturalenvironment(1.5)andanevenlowerimpactonworkingconditionsandpoverty(0.6).Theassignedranksmirrorthisobservation:Theconceptisrankedin11thpositionand12th=positionrespectively.Estimatedtimetomainstreamiswithinthelongestrangeat16.2yearswithacomparablylowstandarddeviationof4.84years.Asignificantmajorityofparticipantshighlightedthedifficultfeasibilityandquestionableimpactofthis

hypothesis.Acommonpointraisedwasthatproducinglocaldoesnotseemtohaveacompellingimpact

onconsumersaverageenvironmentalfootprintasthetransportationofclothinghasarelativelylow

carbonimpactcomparedtoprocessingprocedures.Anothernoteworthycommentstatedthatacritical

barrierforlocalproductionisthatnotallrawmaterialsareavailableinspecificgeographicareas.

Respondentsagreedthatthebusinessworldneedstoundertakeaculturalshifttofosterthecreationof

localindustriesandverticallyintegratedsupplychains.Itwasmentionedthatgovernmentswouldneed

tosetsectorspecificincentivesforapprenticeshipsandskillsdevelopment.Althoughspecific

technologiesenablingsmartandlocalproductionwerementionedintheshortdescriptionofthe

hypothesissuchas3Dprinting,theseinnovativetechniqueswerenotdiscussedfurtherinthecomment

section,norwastheirpotentialinenablingsmartnearshoring.

35

TaxRegulationsforIncreasingSustainability

InitialDefinition:Introductionoftaxregulationstargetedatincreasingsustainabilityinthefashionindustry.

Mostnationshaveimplementedtaxationrequiringcompaniestointroduce

naturalcapitalaccountingaswellastargetedtaxincentivesfocusedon

improvingpracticesandboostingR&D.

“Taxation is important to stimulate agents to internalize their externalities and hence create an impact economy that considers not only the financial bottom line, but also social and environmental net impact.” (Expertquote)

Accordingtotherespondents,thepotentialintroductionoftaxregulationswasassessedashavingahighlypositive impactontherestorationof thenaturalenvironment (2.6)andamediumimpactonworkingconditionsandpoverty(1.9).Itisrankedin5th=positionforboththeimpactonrestorationofthenaturalenvironmentandonworkersconditionsandpoverty.Estimatedtimetomainstreamisinthemid-termrangeat9.9yearswithahighstandarddeviationof6.09years.

There seems to be overall consensus amongst participants that widely introducing effective tax

regulationswouldbeaground-breakingsteptowardsamoresustainableindustry.However,itbecomes

clearthatmostrespondentsarescepticalaboutthepossibilitiesofrealizingsuchataxsystemglobally.

Common concerns are the lack of willingness and agreement between individual countries and slow

action.Respondentshighlightthatlegislationthroughinternationalorganisationsincludingclearobjective

regulations,rulesanddefinitionswouldbeanecessity.Aworkingtaxsystemwouldobligethebusiness

playerstointernalizeexternalitieswithoutburdeningtheextracostsontotheshouldersoftheworkers.

Aworkingtaxsystemwouldalsoneedpreventativemechanismsfortaxavoidance,fraudandcorruption.

Aninterestingproposalwasalsogivenbyonerespondentregardingtaxreliefsforcompaniessharingtheir

newtechnologiesortoolssupportingdecreasedvolumesofwaste.

36

PathwaysTowardsSystemicChange:TheTriadofNewNarratives/GlobalAwareness,andan

EducationandRegulationPush

“I still feel the issue is overconsumption, and we cannot just buy our way out of this.” (Expertquote) WhilelookingattheindividualconceptsfromtheDelphihighlightswhatactionscanandshouldbe

takentoadvancesustainabilityinthefashionindustry(regardingspecificallytheseareasofchange),the

questionsofwhichoverallpathwaystochangearepromising,andwhichfieldsofactionstandoutas

cuttingacrossthedifferentconcepts,alsoarise.ThediscussionsectionsintheDelphionline-survey,as

wellasthereflectionsintheexpertinterviewsandworkshops,especiallycastlightonthis.

Thesereflectionsparticularlystressedtheneedforradical,disruptivelong-termchange,whichcouldonlybeenabledwithaholisticandsystemicapproach.15Strongagreementwasfoundconcerningthe

currentsystemasitiscannotbe“tweaked”orincrementallyadaptedtowardssustainability(orthatthischangewillbe“tooslow”)-instead,anypathwayaimingatachievingnet-positivesustainabilityimpliestheneedto“createafundamentallynewsystem”,thustheneedfordisruptivechange.Suchasystemwouldbedrivenbytheparadigmofnet-positiveimpactswithrespectivepoliticalframeworks,

andisassociatedwithafundamentallychangedconsumptionculture(e.g.alsowiththeaimofreducing

per-capitaconsumption,especiallyinhigh-incomecountries),aswellasnewbusinessmodels(e.g.with

conceptssuchasclothingasaservice).

However,thesediscussionswerealsodrivenbyanunderlyingscepticismtowardsanydiscoursethatsetstechnologyatthecentreofhopesorpromisesofsolutions.Whiletechnologicalprogressisindeed

expectedtocontributetoe.g.reducingindustrywaste,improvingdataqualityandaccessibilityetc.,the

expertsstressthatwecannotrestonthepromiseofpotentialimprovementsbroughtaboutby

technologies.Furthermore,scepticismwashighregardingwhether“businesscouldfixitself”-andthedominantviewwasthatitprobablycannotdosoalone,butneedsadaptedpoliticalframeworksandregulationasadriverofchange-evenifsustainabilityawarenessinthefashionindustryhasincreasedstronglyoverrecentyears.

15 Itisnoteworthythattheexpertsdivergedstronglyconcerningtheunderlying,implicitaswellasexplicitassumptionson

leversand“startingpoints”forchange,onecouldsayalsoconcerningunderlyingimplicit“theoriesofchange”:Ispolicy/state

orpublicsectorsystemsinterventiontheleverfor(andleaderof)change,orisittobefoundincitizen’svaluechange,or

technologyandbusiness?Incontrast,whateverthedifferenceinviewpointshere,agreementalongtheimportanceand

promiseofactivitiesaroundincreasingglobalawarenesswasstrong,aswellasagreementonholistic,systemicapproaches

beingmostpromising.

37

Concerningfieldsofactionthatstoodoutascuttingacrosstheconcepts,threefieldscanbeidentified:Firstofall,thisisthefocuson“changingthenarrative”,asitwasoftenreferredtointheworkshopdiscussions,or“IncreasedGlobalAwareness”,astheoriginalnameoftheconceptsays.Accordingtothe

experts,thisapproachisnotonlyfeasibletoimplementquitequickly,butalsohastheadvantageofa

current“windowofopportunity”,withafocusinthepublicdiscourseonthenecessityaswellasfeasibilityofsustainabilityefforts,asvisiblee.g.intheFridaysforFuturemovement.Focusingon“increasedglobalawareness”isregardedasaprerequisite,majorleverandcatalystformakingotheractionsfeasible,andenablingthemtobediffusedgloballyandmorerapidlythanotherwisepossible.

Secondly,respectivelychangedpoliticalframeworksareseenasamajorbuildingblocktoaccelerateandenablerapidchangetowardssustainability,withactionsfocusingonchangedincentivese.g.viataxesandlaws,procurementconditionsetc.Andfinally,aneducationfocusisregardedasa“bridge”betweenwhatismainlyabottom-upapproachofincreasedglobalawarenessandthetop-downapproachofchangedpoliticalpriorities.Notonlydoelementsofan´educationpush´playarolefor

manyoftheconceptsdiscussedinthestudy(withrespectiveactionssuchasmainstreamingHolistic

CircularDesignFrameworkstoEducationforEmpoweringWorkers);theyarealsoseenasamid-termleverforpushingknowledgeaswellasskillsonsustainabilityandtransformationintonotonlythecurrentandnextgenerationofcitizensandconsumers,butalsodesignersanddecision-makers.However,itisimportanttounderstandthatthisfocuswasnotmeantto,asoneparticipantputit,“start

atprimaryschoolandthenwaitfor15yearsuntilthatgenerationhasinfluence”,butinsteadbuildon

existingeffortsatthelevelofon-the-jobtrainingandtertiaryeducation,diffusingthemgloballyand

makingeffortsmuch-morefar-reaching,againinthesenseofa“radicalimplementationanddiffusion”

acrossthesector.

38

TheNeedtoAddressTwoTimescales:CurrentPressuresversusTheVisionofCreating

aNewSystem

“Right now, we have to deal with the damage done within the system we have at the moment - meaning supporting workers with bad working conditions or doing something about the impacts on the environment that are being caused now.” (Expertquote)

Whiletheexpertsdemandaradicalre-envisioningofafundamentallychangedfuturefashionsystem

andindustry,governedbytheprinciplesofnet-positiveimpacts,theyalsoclearlyseethenecessityto

dealwiththeproblemscausedbythecurrentsystemduringthetransitionperiod.Asaconsequence,

strategiestowardscreatingnet-positivesustainabilityinthefashionindustrywillneedtosimultaneously

paytributeto:

● Addressingcurrentproblemsoftheexistingsystem(suchastheprinciplesofthe“racetothe

bottom”,the“fastfashiontrap”andtheconsequencesofahighlyfragmentedvaluechain,with

e.g.persistingproblematicandunjustworkingconditionsformanyinthefashionindustry);

● Whileworkingtowardscreatingafundamentallychangednewsystem-withatitscorea

fundamentallychanged“sustainableconsumptionculture”,andnewbusinessmodelswithre-

use,recyclingandcircularityattheircentre.

39

Outlook

Theprojectresultslineoutwhattheexpertsinvolvedthinkaboutthefutureofsustainabilityinthefashion

industry.Wehopetheresultswillbeusableformany,andthatavarietyofactorsfromthefieldwilldive

deepintotheresults,andmakeuseofthemasastartingpointfore.g.theirowndialoguesaboutfuture

perspectives,beitinternallyforstrategy-making,orinopenformatswithotherstakeholders.

Thestudyclearlycontainswhatcanbecalledawake-upmessage.I.e.theconclusionthatifwerelyorrest

oncurrenttrendscontinuing,wewillnotbeabletoachievenet-positivesustainability.Itisthusalsoan

appealtotheindustrythatmuchmorethanwhatiscurrentlybeingdone,orisintheworks,hastobe

realized to achieve this goal. At the same time, the results of this study containmany “messages of

encouragement”.Achievingalloftheconceptsfeaturedinthestudyisseenaswithinreach(feasibleina

timelineof16yearsatthemost),ifthenecessarymeasuresaretaken.Aradicallysustainablefutureof

thefashionindustrydrivenbytheparadigmofnet-positivity isthusnotonlyimaginable,butfeasible-

givenstrongadditionalefforts,andimplyingincreasedinternationalandcross-sectoralcooperation.The

expertsrecommendtargetingthreemainleversinthepathwaypainted:Increasingglobalawareness(or

“changingthenarrative”,drivenbyaglobalalliancecuttingacrossthesector),aneducationpushand

respectivestrongpolicy-sideframeworks,implyingradicalsystemicchangeonavarietyoflevels.

Onanotherlevel,weseetheexceptionallevelanddepthofengagementoftheexpertsinvolvedinthe

studyasanotherpointertowardspositivefutureperspectives.Theircommitmentinthisprocess,bringing

togethervoicesfromwidelydifferentdomains,backgroundsandregionsoftheworld,demonstratedthat

dialogueandcooperationacrosstheindustryisdesiredaswellasneeded,fruitfulandachievable.The

questionofwhatkindoffutureweaspireto,andwhatwecandocreateit,canbeacatalystincreating

moreofthesekindsofmuch-neededopportunitiesforcross-cuttingdialogueandcooperativestrategic

thinking.

40

Annex

OverviewoftheProjectMethodology

ThepreparationandexecutionoftheDelphionlinesurveyproceededovertwodistinctphases.The

initialphaseconsistedofformulatingtheDelphihypothesesandcomprised:

● WorkshopwithC&AFoundationexpertsinZug

● RipvanWinklesurveywithasampleexpertgroupfromtheC&AFoundation

● Desk-research

● Draftingofinitialhypotheses

● SeveraliterationsoffeedbackandrefiningofthehypotheseswiththeC&AFoundation

LeadershipTeam

● Draftingthefinallistofhypothesesandresponseformats

Theprocesswherebytheseswereidentifiedandselectedfollowedthealgorithmbelow:

1. Extractingpropositionsforthesesfrom3sources:

1. RipvanWinkleexercise

2. Interviewswithexperts

3. Deskresearchwithspecialconsiderationofacademicpapersonsustainablefashionand

sustainablefashionreports:

1. Driftreport

2. Pulseofthefashionindustryreport

3. Sustainablefashion:Newapproaches(AaltoUniversityreport)

2. Preselectingthesesbyusing3filterstoensurerelativelyequaldistributionamong:

1. Fashionindustry’svaluechainlinks

2. FivefieldsofC&AFoundation’scurrentactivity

3. SixpathwaysoftransitionfromDriftreport

3. Finalselectionbasedonkeypointsfromtheinterviewswithexperts

Thefinallistofhypothesescounted16items,includingtwohorizontalhypothesestreatingsustainability

inthefashionindustryfromahigh-levelperspectiveand14specifichypotheses,pertainingtoasetof

potentialsolutionsor“concepts”enablingsustainabilityinthefashionindustryoverthelong-term.The

participantsassessedthesehigh-levelhypothesesusingthefollowingmetrics:

Impactonworkingconditions,povertyandimpactontherestorationofthenaturalenvironmentwas

measuredonascalefrom-4to4where-4meansverystrongnegativeimpactand4meansverystrong

positiveimpact.WebasedthismetriconthedistinctionusedinC&AFoundation’sTOC.

41

Earliesttimetomainstreamwasmeasuredinyearsandshowshowmuchtimeisrequiredforagiven

thesistobecomereality,inthemostdesirablescenario.Ifrespondentsassessedthatitwasnotpossible

toachievesuchastateinthecircumstancesgivenabovethentheywouldwrite“1000years”astheir

answer.

Commentingonacertainthesisrequiredaparticipanttoselectoneofthefollowingprefixes:

● Abarriertoachievingthiscouldbe…

● Asolutionfacilitatingachievingthiscouldbe...

ThethesesinSection1aremeantfortheassessmentofthepresentefforts.

Themainphaseofthestudyconsistedofset-up,runningandreportingontheresultsofDelphisurvey.

Forthisstudy,aReal-time-Delphi(RTD)surveywasrealizedon4CFHalnyXplatform.

TheonlineDelphiwasrealizedwithacarefullyselectedsetof21topglobalexperts.Theexpertswere

invitedtoparticipateintheonlineDelphiaswellastheexternalexpertsworkshop.Thecriteriafor

selectionincludedananalysisoftopicexpertise,geographicalspreadandtheexperts’affiliation,

confirmedbytheC&AFoundation.

Theparticipantswereeachpaidagratuityof700EUR,toensureasenseofcommitment(and“real”

timecontributed)aswellasthepossibilitytoincludehigh-levelexperts,whoarefrequentlynolonger

contributingto“open”(unpaid)Delphisurveys.Morethansatisfactorylevelsofinvolvementwerenoted

for21experts(seeAnnex“ExpertswhocontributedtotheDelphi”).

TheDelphisurveywasrealizedinafocusedtimeof26days.Promptresponsetotechnicalrequestswas

individuallyprovidedtotheparticipantsoveremail.Inonecaseaparticipantwasgivenanalternative

wayofsubmittinginputtothestudyduetotechnicalproblemsonexpert’sside.

FollowingthecompletionoftheonlineDelphisurvey,theinsightsgainedwerereflecteduponand

furtherrefinedinaworkshopwithexternalexperts.Anadditionalstrategyworkshopwasthenheld

withtheC&AfoundationLeadershipTeam,servingasabridgefromtheDelphiresultsintouseofthese

insightsinstrategicprogramming.

42

Image:Projectoverviewandapproach

43

FurtherDetailsonDelphiDesign

IntroductiontoDelphiMethodology

TheDelphiMethodwasdevelopedinthe1950sand1960sintheUnitedStatesbytheRANDprojectasanaidfordecision-makingandanalyticalmilitaryinstitutionsinassessingthecontemporarysituation.It

isnowakeytoolinstrategicforesightandmodernstrategicmanagement.Itallowsexpertgroupsto

findaconsensusonagivensetofissueswithinashorttime.Theresultsofthestudyarerelatively

unaffectedbypsychological,rhetoricalorsociologicalfactors,whichusuallyhaveanegativeeffecton

groupdiscussions.Takingthisintoconsideration,itisnotsurprisingthattheDelphimethodhasbeen

usedinclassifiedUSAirForceprojectstoreachaconsensusamongseniorofficers,academics,civil

expertsanddecisionmakers.Sincethen,ithasprovenitsworthinthousandsofcivilianprojects,in

areassuchaseducation,technologydevelopment,spatialplanning,conservationofnaturalresourcesor

regionaldevelopmentplanning.

Areal-timeDelphistudyisanenhancedversionofthemethod,originallydevelopedforDARPAin2004

inordertoincreasethespeedandefficiencyofmulti-expertdecision-making.Itisasignificanttime-

saver,asitreplacestraditionalsurveyscollectedinrounds,withongoing,continuousprocessingofthe

participants’responsesontheserver.Thus,the“discussion”intheonlinetooliscontinuous,allowing

foramorein-depthanalysisofthetopic,andresultinginaclearerconsensusamongexpertsonmore

preciseanswerstoresearchquestionsknownastheDelphiTheses.Participantscanaccessthestudyas

oftenastheywish,eachtimereceivinginformationastothecurrentstatusofthediscussionandrating

values.Theymayaddnewargumentsandchangepreviouslystatedopinions.Real-timeDelphistudies

havebeenwelltestedoverthepastdecadeinprestigiousprojectsonhundredsoftopicsaroundthe

world.4CFHalnyXisanadvancedDelphiplatform(smartDelphi,or4thgenDelphi)developedat4CF.The

platformmakesuseofthelatestadvancesinwebapplicationsandenablesfastconsensusbuildingand

theidentificationandevaluationofpointsofdisputeincomplexissuesinreal-time.Unlikecommonly

usedqualitativeknowledgemanagementandsocialresearchtools(suchasfocusgroups,workshops,

forums,orsurveys),4CFHalnyXsimultaneouslygivesresearchteamstheadvantageofusingcollective

intelligenceandasoliddiscussionstructure,whichensuresthatnoessentialinformationisomitted,

whileminimisingcognitiveoverload.

44

ApproachandReasoningtoDesigningtheDelphiOnline-Survey

TheDelphi-method-basedsurveyofexpertsassessedasetofhypotheses(or“concepts”)ontheir

impactuponthesustainabilityofthefashionindustry.The16individualconceptsweredeveloped

throughaninitial“RipvanWinkle”16exercise,interviewswithexperts,anddeskresearchwithspecial

considerationofacademicpapersonsustainablefashionandsustainablefashionreports.Individual

conceptswereevaluatedontwoaxesagainstimpactonworkingconditionsandpoverty,andonthe

restorationofthenaturalenvironment.Inaddition,theearliesttimetomainstreamwasalsoratedto

appraisehowmuchtimeisrequiredforagivenconcepttobecomereality,inthemostdesirable

scenario.Furthermore,commentingonacertainconceptrequiredaparticipanttocommentupon

eitherabarriertoachievingtheconcept,orasolutionfacilitationachievement.

RipvanWinkle:TheDelphionlinesurveydesignstartedwitha“RipvanWinkle”(RvW)typeexercise-a

methoddevelopedbyRANDwithinthe“AssumptionsBasedPlanning”methodologicalframework.The

exerciseismeanttoidentifybothload-bearingandvulnerableassumptionsregardingthefutureofa

giventopic.TheparticipantsoftheRvWexercisewereaskedtoindividuallylist10yes/noquestions

essentialtodefining"sustainabilityinthefashionindustryin2035”17.Theexacttaskwasformulatedas

follows:

“Youfellasleepanditseemsthatyousleptforquitesometime.Uponwakingyourealizethat

theyearis2035.In2035,forsomereason,youarerequestedtodescribethepresentstatusof

sustainabilityinthefashionindustry–youdonotknow,however,whathashappenedinthe

industryandbeyondduringthetimeyouwereasleep.

Youcanask10questionstogetabettergrasponthecurrentrealityofthefashionindustryand

contextin2035beforeyoustateyouranswer.Eachquestionhastobea‘yesorno’questionand

theycannotbecontingentoneachother.”

Selectedexpertsfrom4CFandFutureImpactstookpartintheexerciseaswell.Asaresult,wereceived

manyassumptions/uncertaintiesthatwerebothload-bearingandvulnerable.Wethenclusteredthem

tobecomeour'proto-hypotheses'.Wealsomatchedthemwithvaluechainlinkstocheckifcoverage

wassatisfactory(seetheannexforaninsightintothematchingprocess).

Delphiconcepts:AsaresultoftheRvWexerciseandourinternaldeskresearch,theproblemareas

whichshouldbeaddressedbecamereasonablywelldefined.Atthesametime,manyofthemwere“too

vague”tobeassessedduringaDelphionline-survey,westillneededtotranslatethemintospecificideas

forsolutions.AstheresultsoftheDelphionline-surveyneededtoprovideusableinsights,thegoalwas

16 A“RipvanWinkleexercise”isanexerciseoriginallydevelopedbyRAND,aimedatidentifyingassumptionsaboutconcepts

relatedtothefuture;fordetailsseethisproject’sinternalinceptionreportandJamesDewar(2002):Assumption-Based

Planning:AToolforReducingAvoidableSurprises. 17FashionforGooddefinesacurrentviewofsustainabilityinthefashionindustryinthe“5pointsofGoodFashion”document.

45

toformulatetheDelphithesesinawaywhichwouldmitigatetheriskofthediscussionbecomingtoo

generalandbroad.Takingtheaboveintoaccount,aswellasthefactthatwewouldbeusingthe4CF

Matrixforpresentingtheresults,wereformulatedtheDelphithesesasspecific“solutions”tothe

challengeofmakingthefashionindustrymoresustainable.

Wealsotriedtolookatthepossiblesolutionstotheindustry’ssustainabilityproblemsthroughthelens

ofValueChains-forexampletohavetwoDelphithesesforeachlinkinthevaluechain.Thiswould,

however,makesolutionstoospecific,especiallytakingintoaccountthate.g.solutionsforguaranteeing

justworkingconditionswouldmostlikelybeapplicableacrossprocessing,manufacturingandretail.

Wethereforeassessedeachoftheconceptsusingthefollowingmetrics:

·“Howfararewefromachievingit?”orinotherwordsearliesttimetomainstream(ETM)(0-50years)

·Impactonfairconditionsandwagesforworkersinthefashionindustry(-4to4)·Impactontheenvironment(-4to4)(ormoreprecisely-impactonrestoringnatural

environmentsinareasimpactedbytheindustry)Thefirstassessmentisacomplexone-whileassessingtheearliesttimeneededforasolutiontoreach

mainstreamthestudyparticipantsneededtotakeintoaccountnotonlytechnologicalobstacles,but

alsosocial,politicalandeconomicones.

Thesecondandthirdassessmentswerefocusedmoreonproblemareas(andthustheyareformulated

verysimilarlytotheimpactsinC&AFoundation’sTheoryofChange).Theaverageofthesetwobecame

ourAverageRelativeAdvantage(oneoftheaxesof4CFMatrix–althoughwecallitImpactinsteadof

Advantage,becausethatiswhatwearelookingforhere).Prefixesforcommentsunderathesiswere

relatedtobarriersstoppingacertainchangefrombecomingareality,andleversorpreconditionsfor

thischangebecomingareality.

46

ApproachandDesignoftheWorkshopsAnexternalexpertsworkshopwasheldonthe19thJulyinCologne,German.Workshopparticipants

includedeightexpertswhohadpreviouslytakenpartintheonlineDelphi,andfouradditionalexperts

whowereabletoprovidefreshperspectives.Duringtheworkshopparticipantsworkedonrefiningthe

resultsfromtheonlinesurvey,andaddingadditionalinsights.

TheassessmentsandcommentsgatheredthroughtheDelphiprovidedaninitialpictureofafuture

sustainablefashionindustry,thatwasusedasabasisfortheworkshopdiscussions.Theintroductionof

agame-TheStrangerFuturesGame-wasusedasatooltoencouragecreativityandthinkingoutsideof

thebox.Enablerswereselectedtohelprealizeasustainablefashionindustry-stemmingfroman

analysisoftheDelphiresultsrealizedbeforetheworkshop.Expertsthendeveloped‘upgraders’which

wouldsupporttheenablersand‘challenges’whichwouldhinderthem.

Inafurtherstep,expertsbroughttheupgradersintoachronologicalstructuretocreateconsistent

pathwaysforasustainablefashionindustry.Todevelopmoredetailedpathways,theupgraderswere

secondedbypromoters,antagonistsandactionsthatcouldassisttheirrealization.

Inafinalstep,expertsidentifiedclustersofactionsinthepathways.Theseso-calledactionfieldswere

thusasummaryofconcreteactionswithadescriptionofwhatplayersneedtodevelop,todoorto

consider.Theadditionalinsightscollectedoverthedaywerethenfedbackandincorporatedintothe

overallprojectresults.

Followingtheexternalexperts’workshop,aninternalworkshopwasheldwiththeC&AFoundation

LeadershipteamwhichespeciallyfocusedonoptionsforactionfortheFoundationandimplicationsof

theoverallprojectinsightsfortheFoundation’sstrategy.Bothstepswereabletodeepenandrefine

insightstowardsactionableresultsforC&AFoundation’sstrategicprogramming,aswellastheindustry

asawhole.

47

DetailsonExpertSelectionandInvolvement:OverallConceptofExpertSelection

TherealizationoftheDelphirequiredacarefullyselectedgroupofexpertstogenerateinsightsonfuture

trendsinsustainabilityforthefashionindustry.

Theselectionoftheseexpertswasmadeviaasystematic,criteria-ledprocess,drawingfromtheC&A

Foundation’snetworkofexpertsaswellasthoseofFutureImpacts,4CFandTheMillenniumProject,

drivenbyadditionalresearch.Expertswereidentifiedacrossamatrixoftopicexpertisethatincluded

experts’affiliation,characteristics(e.g.academia,policyandgovernance,campaigner/activistetc.,

genderandage,geographicalregion…).Thisensuredthattheselectionofexpertscoveredallaspectsof

relevance,aswellascross-cuttingissuesandperspectives.

OnlineDelphi:Twenty-onetop-expertswereselectedtopartakeintheonlineDelphi.Theadvantageofthisratherlimitedsamplesizewasthatitwassmallenoughtoenableameaningfulexchange,whichis

keyfortheresultsofaqualityRTD,whilelargeenoughtocoverthetopicsthatneededtobetakeninto

consideration.These21globalexpertswereselectedfromaninitiallong-listofuptoonehundred

expertswasidentifiedcollaborativelybetweenFutureImpacts,4CFandtheC&AFoundation,based

upontheirnetworksandcomplementedbyadditionalresearch.Fromthisinitiallong-list,arankingof

thetopapprox.20participantswasmadeensuringtoobtainabalanceofthecharacteristicsmentioned

above,aswellasaligningexpertisewiththeDelphiquestionsandaimingtoobtaina‘radicalinformed

(andpartiallyoutside)view’fromestablishedandwell-knownexpertswithauthorityintheindustry.

Prioritywasgiventoasecondgroupofapprox.20experts,toserveasalternativesincaseof

unavailability.

ExpertInterviews:Inadditiontothe21externalexpertschosentotakepartintheonlineDelphi,asubgroupoffiveexperts(twoexternal,andthreeinternalfromC&AFoundation)werealsoaskedto

takepartinsemi-structuredtelephoneinterviewsaimedatinformingthedesignoftheDelphiduringits

developmentstage.Thus,throughtheinterviewstheoveralldesignoftheDelphiisinformedviaa

cooperativeco-developmentandreflectionprocess,allowingustointegratetheexperts’knowledge

intotheformulationanddesignofthequestionnaire.Furthermore,thedesignworkshop,realizedwith

theC&AFoundationleadershipteam,waspartofthisprocessandservedtofurtherdevelopthedraft

questionnaireaswellasthelistofexpertstoinvite.

ExternalExpertsWorkshop:TheexpertsselectedtojointheonlineDelphiwerealsoinvitedtotakepartintheexternalexperts’workshop.Whileasmallnumberofexperts(four)whodidnotpartakeinthe

onlineDelphiwerealsoinvitedtojointheworkshop,inordertoincludefreshassessmentsandinsights

intotheprocess.

48

Image:WhocontributedtotheDelphi?Byregion(onlinesurveyandworkshop)

Image:WhocontributedtotheDelphi?Professionalbackgrounds(onlinesurveyandworkshop)

49

ContributingExpertsExpertsWhoContributedtotheOnline-SurveyaswellasWorkshop

ProfessionalBackground Region Gender

Academic NorthAmerica F

Academic Europe F

Academic Asia M

Academic NorthAmerica F

Academic Europe F

Academic Europe F

Academic Europe F

Academic Europe M

Activist/Campaigner Europe F

Activist/Campaigner South&CentralAmerica M

Activist/Campaigner Asia F

Activist/Campaigner Asia F

Industry NorthAmerica M

Industry South&CentralAmerica M

Industry Europe M

Industry Asia M

Industry Europe F

IndustryJournalist South&CentralAmerica M

IndustryJournalist NorthAmerica F

IndustryJournalist/Industry NorthAmerica F

Non-Profit/SocialSector Asia F

Non-profit/SocialSector Europe F

Non-profit/SocialSector Europe F

Non-profit/SocialSector South&CentralAmerica M

Non-profit/SocialSector Asia F

50

AbouttheProjectTeam

TheprojectwasrealizedbyateamfromFutureImpacts,incooperationwith4CFandTheMillenniumProject.Thethreepartnershavecooperatedalreadyformanyyearsacrossvariousprojects,and

togetherbringdeepexpertiseinrealizingDelphistudiesandbreakingthemdownintoactionable

results.

FutureImpactsisafuturesresearchcompany,focusingoncreatingimpactontoday’sactionsfromenvisagingthefuture.Havingrealizedprojectsforavarietyofcustomersinternationally(fromtheprivatesector,e.g.Alstom,

Evonik,HermesandtheSouthKoreanTelecom,andforthepublicsectorsuchasEuropeanCommission

andParliamentandGermanandUKministries,andforfoundationsandsocialsectoractors,suchas

BertelsmannFoundationandAktionMensch),wefocusoncreatingmoresustainableandinclusive

futures.WebringinexpertisefromhavingrealizedDelphistudiese.g.onfuturetechnologiesorthefutureofwork,andfromfuturesstudiesrelevanttothisproject,suchasonthefutureofagriculture,transportandlogistics,waste,gender,workandinclusion.FutureImpactsalsoleadstheGermanNode

oftheMillenniumProject.Seehttp://www.future-impacts.de

4CFisastrategicforesightconsultancy.Ourcoreexpertiseliesinlongtermanalysisandstrategy-helpingbusinesses,NGOsandgovernments

aroundtheworldtoreachtheirgoalsinarapidlychangingenvironment.Weincreaseorganizations'and

teams'capacitytoidentify,prepareforandutilizeopportunitiesandthreats.AstheCentral-European

NodeofTheMillenniumProject,4CFrepresentsworld'sleadingfuturesresearchthink-tank,selected

amongthebestforesightorganizationsbytheUSOfficeofEnergy.4CFhasalsobeenlistedasaleading

foresightandstrategicplanninginstitutionbyForesightEducationandResearchNetwork(FERN).4CF

strivestostayonthecuttingedgeofmodernforesight,workingwithi.e.militarystrategists,inorderto

giveourclientstheadvantageofbeingalwaysonestepahead.Inthisproject,4CFbringsintheirownDelphitoolHalnyXforrealizingDelphiquestionnaires,andrealizesthewholeprojecthandinhandwithFutureImpactsandtheC&AFoundation.Seehttp://www.4cf.pl

51

TheMillenniumProjectisaglobalparticipatorythinktank.

Establishedin1996undertheauspicesoftheAmericanCouncilfortheUnitedNationsUniversitythat

becameindependentin2009andhasgrownto63Nodesaroundtheworld(anMPNodeisagroupof

institutionsandindividualsthatconnectlocalandglobalperspectives).Itregularlypublishesthe“State

oftheFutureReport”,andhasrealizedover50futuresresearchprojects,mostofthemonthebasisof

Delphis.Withinthecontextofthisproject,theseniorexpertsJeromeC.GlennandTedGordon(whois

oneofthe“inventors”oftheDelphimethod)providedtheiradviceonhowtobestdesigntheDelphi

questionnaire,aswellasontheanalysisofresults.Seehttp://www.millennium-project.org

52

References

AaltoUniversity(2013).SustainableFashion:NewApproaches.Availableat:

https://shop.aalto.fi/media/attachments/1ee80/SustainableFashion.pdf

ATKearney(2017).SocialInnovationOffersFiveGoldenOpportunitiestotheApparelIndustry.Available

at:https://www.atkearney.de/social-impact/article/?/a/social-innovation-offers-five-golden-

opportunities-to-the-apparel-industry-article

BBC(2019).FutureProofingFashion:HowTechnologyandSocialChangeCouldMeantheEndofFashion

inFuture.Availableat:https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b0b3d42q

C&AFoundation(2017).AnnualReport:CircularFashion.Availableat:

https://annualreport.candafoundation.org/2017/circular_fashion

C&AFoundation(2018).AnnualReport.Availableat:

https://annualreport.candafoundation.org/2018/cover

Csanák(2014).Eco-FriendlyConceptsandEthicalMovementsintheFashionIndustry.Availableat:

https://www.academia.edu/8774978/ECO-

FRIENDLY_CONCEPTS_AND_ETHICAL_MOVEMENTS_IN_THE_FASHION_INDUSTRY

Dewar(2002).Assumption-BasedPlanning:AToolforReducingAvoidableSurprises.

Drew&Yehounme(2017).TheApparelIndustry’sEnvironmentalImpactinSixGraphics.World

ResourcesInstitute.Availableat:https://www.wri.org/blog/2017/07/apparel-industrys-environmental-

impact-6-graphics

DriftforTransition&C&AFoundation(2018).TheTransitiontoGoodFashion.Availableat:

https://drift.eur.nl/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/FINAL_report.pdf

EllenMcArthurFoundation(2017).ANewTextileEconomy:RedesigningFashionsFuture.Availableat:

https://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/assets/downloads/publications/A-New-Textiles-

Economy_Full-Report.pdf

FashionRevolution(2015).It’sTimeforaFashionRevolution:WhitePaper.Availableat:

https://www.fashionrevolution.org/wp-

content/uploads/2015/11/FashRev_Whitepaper_Dec2015_screen.pdf

53

FashionforGood(2017).TheFiveGoods.Availableat:

https://d2be5ept72nvlo.cloudfront.net/2018/10/The-Five-Goods.pdf

ForumfortheFuture(2018).TheNetPositiveConcept.Availableat:

https://www.forumforthefuture.org/net-positive

ForumfortheFuture&C&AFoundation&UALLondonCollegeofFashion&CentreforSustainable

Fashion(2019).FashionFutures2030.Availableat:

http://www.fashionfutures2030.com/scenarios/home

FuturesCoLab&ClimateWorksFoundation&FuturEarth&MITCenterforCollectiveIntelligence(2018).

BroadeningtheDialogue:ExploringAlternativeFuturestoInformClimateAction.Availableat:

https://www.climateworks.org/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/cwf-futures-colab-broadening-the-

dialogue-alternative-futures.pdf

GlobalFashionAgenda(2018).2020CircularFashionSystemCommitment.Availableat:

https://www.globalfashionagenda.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/2020-Commitment-year-one-

status-report.pdf

GlobalFashionAgenda&BostonConsultingGroup(2018).PulseoftheFashionIndustry.Availableat:

https://www.globalfashionagenda.com/initiatives/pulse/#

GlobeScan&C&AFoundation(2019).CircularProductionandConsumptioninFashionandBeyond.

Availableat:https://globescan.com/wp-

content/uploads/2019/04/GlobeScan_CA_Foundation_SDG_Leadership_Forum_Goal_12_Report_Marc

h2019.pdf

Hollender(2015).NetPositive:TheFutureofSustainableBusiness.Availableat:

https://ssir.org/articles/entry/net_positive_the_future_of_sustainable_business

InternationalLaborRightsForum(ILRF)(2019).FutureofFashion:Worker-LedStrategiesforCorporate

AccountabilityintheGlobalApparelIndustry.Availableat:

https://laborrights.org/sites/default/files/publications/Future_of_Fashion_ILRF.pdf

Kane&Stotzt(2015).GlobalGarmentIndustryFactsheet.Availableat:

https://cleanclothes.org/resources/publications/factsheets/general-factsheet-garment-industry-

february-2015.pdf

Karaosman,Morales-Alonso&Brun(2017).FromaSystematicLiteratureReviewtoaClassification

Framework:SustainabilityIntegrationinFashionOperations.Availableat:

54

https://www.researchgate.net/publication/311955732_From_a_Systematic_Literature_Review_to_a_Cl

assification_Framework_Sustainability_Integration_in_Fashion_Operations

Loorbach(2007).TransitionManagement:NewModeofGovernanceforSustainableDevelopment.

Availableat:

https://www.researchgate.net/publication/35149475_Transition_Management_New_Mode_of_Govern

ance_for_Sustainable_Development

McKinsey&Company(2018).IsApparelManufacturingComingHome?Nearshoring,Automatizationand

Sustainability-EstablishingaDemand-FocusedApparelValueChain.Availableat:

https://www.mckinsey.com/~/media/mckinsey/industries/retail/our%20insights/is%20apparel%20man

ufacturing%20coming%20home/is-apparel-manufacturing-coming-home_vf.ashx

McKinsey&Company(2019).TheStateofFashion2019.Availableat:

https://cdn.businessoffashion.com/reports/The_State_of_Fashion_2019.pdf

NetPositiveProject(2019).Availableat:https://www.netpositiveproject.org/

Origame&C&AFoundation(2018).GovernancefortheCircularEconomy:LeadershipObservations.

Availableat:https://cirql.eu/download-request/

OutdoorIndustryAssociation(2015).SustainabilityWorkingGroupHiggIndexFAQ.Availableat:

https://outdoorindustry.org/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/OIASWG_HiggIndexFAQ_20152.pdf

SAGEFund(2015).AdvancingHumanRightsAccountabilityforEconomicActors:AnIntroductoryField

GuideforFunders.Availableat:

https://static1.squarespace.com/static/56e04646f699bb070acdb6f3/t/57349cf759827e3bcf0193e0/146

3065848602/Advancing+Human+Rights+Accountability+for+Economic+Actors_Jan+2015.pdf

SPREADSustainableLifestyles2050Project(2012).EmergingVisionsforFutureSustainableLifestyles.

EuropeanPolicyBrief.Availableat:https://www.sustainable-

lifestyles.eu/fileadmin/images/content/D3.2_PolicyBrief_SustainableLifestyles.pdf

ThredUp(2019).ThredUp2019ResaleReport.Availableat:https://www.thredup.com/resale

VanderVelden(2016).MakingFashionSustainable-TheRoleofDesigners.Availableat:

https://www.researchgate.net/profile/Nm_Van_Der_Velden/publication/311808029_Making_Fashion_

Sustainable_-

_The_Role_of_Designers_doctoral_thesis_Delft_University_of_Technology/links/58639e9108aebf17d39

7397b/Making-Fashion-Sustainable-The-Role-of-Designers-doctoral-thesis-Delft-University-of-

Technology.pdf

55

FullDataofDelphiResults

Impactontherestorationofthenaturalenvironment

Assumingthatalltrendsinthefashionindustry,includingsustainabilitytrends,willremainunchanged(i.e.trends

continuealongthetrackthattheyarecurrentlyon)isitachievableforthefashionindustrytohaveanet-positiveimpactontherestorationofthenaturalenvironment?

According to the respondents, lack of change in trends within the fashion industry, will not lead to net positive impact nor on the restoration of thenatural environment, nor on working conditions and poverty. However, for those who judged the net positive impact possible if sustainability trends areconstant, what is worth mentioning is that it would take almost twice as long for environmental restoration (21.5 years) as for working conditions (12.7years). What is crucial, is that respondents are also more congruent according to the ETM regarding potential net positive on the restoration ofenvironment than working conditions and poverty, for which standard deviation value is relatively high (8.81). It might be due to the fact that fast fashionindustry degrading natural environment at a fast pace is a concrete, visible fact, with large stocks of unsold clothes generating waste. With thisassumption, it might be therefore easier to potentially evaluate the ETM for net-positive impact on the restoration of natural environment. Nevertheless,strong majority agrees that there is a high need for change within the fashion industry and that current sustainable trends are not efficient to achievesustainable fashion in the future. Three quarters of the respondents decided that the current state of fashion industry does not allow net positive impacton the restoration of natural environment and more than half that the same impact is not possible for working conditions. It could mean that innovationssuch as fostering low-energy and low-water, efficient production and processing mechanisms as well as introduction of resale, worker-driven initiatives orhigh concentration strategies, proposed by the study, are highly welcomed.

Especiallyworthnoting

Impactonworkingconditionsandpoverty

Assumingthatalltrendsinthefashionindustry,includingsustainabilitytrends,willremainunchanged(i.e.trends

continuealongthetrackthattheyarecurrentlyon)isitachievableforthefashionindustrytohaveanet-positiveimpactonworkingconditionsandpoverty?

IfYES,howmanyyearsareneededtoachievethispositiveoutcome?

21.5(average;basedupon10assessments

withst.dev.=3.37)

IfYES,howmanyyearsareneededtoachievethispositiveoutcome?

12.7(average;basedupon13assessments

withst.dev.=8.81)

75%

25%

62%

38%

56

A.1.AUTOMATIONREVOLUTION- Assessments

Advancedautomationtechnologiesdramaticallyreducelabourcontentofgarmentproduction,processing,

manufacturingandlogisticswhileatthesametimesignificantlyreducingTimeToMarket.

PLEASEASSESSTHEFOLLOWINGCONCEPT:

"Advancedautomationtechnologiesreplacehumansinmostproductionareasofthefashionindustry"

-4 -3 -2 -1 0 1 2 3 4(highly

negative)(highlypositive)

0.8

Impactonrestorationofthenaturalenvironment(average;basedupon19assessmentswithst.dev.=0.9)

-4 -3 -2 -1 0 1 2 3 4(highly

negative)(highlypositive)

-0.9

Impactonworkingconditionsandpoverty(average;basedupon19assessmentswithst.dev.=0.91)

0 5 10 15 20 25

9.9

ETM-earliestpossibletimeforthisconcepttoreachmainstreaminyears

(average;basedupon19assessmentswithst.dev.=4.25)

Basing on the answers, majority of participants agreed that automation revolution would have only slightly positive impact onthe restoration of the natural environment and slightly negative on working conditions and poverty. There is no strongdispersion between the responses as the standard deviation for both measures is around 0,9).

Nevertheless, there is less congruence amongst responders when it comes to the ETM. The ETM in average is relatively shortand equals circa 10 years from now. However it is observable that answers are less unequivocal and differ more from eachother.

Especiallyworthnoting

57

B.1.CIRCULARECONOMY- AssessmentsCircularEconomy- asystemofinteractionandexchangethattreatstheearthas“onehousehold”.Thissystem

viewsworkingconditions,povertyandrestorationofthenaturalenvironmentasopportunitiestocreatevalue,

includingmakinganet- positiveimpact:soeachpurchase,product,place,processandpolicyenhancesthequality

oflife,tostrengthentheintegrityofcomplexsystemssuchaslandscapes,culturesandcommunities.

PLEASEASSESSTHEFOLLOWINGCONCEPT:

"ThefashionindustryoperatesaccordingtoCircularEconomyprinciples"

-4 -3 -2 -1 0 1 2 3 4(highly

negative)(highlypositive)

2.8

Impactonrestorationofthenaturalenvironment(average;basedupon18assessmentswithst.dev.=0.88)

-4 -3 -2 -1 0 1 2 3 4(highly

negative)(highlypositive)

1.6

Impactonworkingconditionsandpoverty(average;basedupon18assessmentswithst.dev.=1.20)

0 5 10 15 20 25

12.2

ETM-earliestpossibletimeforthisconcepttoreachmainstreaminyears

(average;basedupon18assessmentswithst.dev.=5.09)

According to the results, respondents are quite in accordance regarding the assumption of incorporation of Circular Economyprinciples to the fashion industry would have relatively highly positive impact on the restoration of the natural environment.There is also a premise that it would result positively on working conditions and poverty, but answers are slightly morespread. When it comes to the ETM, the average remains relatively close (12.2) years, but there is less accordance betweenrespondents regarding this measure.

Especiallyworthnoting

58

C.1.CLOTHINGASASERVICE- Assessments“Fastfashion”and“take-make-waste”arenolongerthepreeminentbusinessmodelsinthefashionindustry.

Leasingclothing,monthlysubscriptions,exchangingusedclothesforshopdiscountsandmanyotherservice-based

modelsformthecoreofthefashionindustry.

PLEASEASSESSTHEFOLLOWINGCONCEPT:

"'Clothingasaservice'becomesthemainbusinessmodelinthefashionindustry"

-4 -3 -2 -1 0 1 2 3 4(highly

negative)(highlypositive)

2.8

Impactonrestorationofthenaturalenvironment(average;basedupon19assessmentswithst.dev.=0.69)

-4 -3 -2 -1 0 1 2 3 4(highly

negative)(highlypositive)

0.7

Impactonworkingconditionsandpoverty(average;basedupon19assessmentswithst.dev.=1)

0 5 10 15 20 25

12.4

ETM-earliestpossibletimeforthisconcepttoreachmainstreaminyears

(average;basedupon19assessmentswithst.dev.=6.51)

Basing on the results, there is a fairly well congruity that clothing as a service would have strongly positive impact on therestoration of natural environment. On the other hand, respondents did not assume it would impact significantly workingconditions and poverty however, relatively positive outcomes are presumed. Eventually, accordance amongst participantsregarding the ETM remains highly dispersed with the standard deviation being equivalent to 6.51.

Especiallyworthnoting

59

D.1.CONSUMERLEVELSUSTAINABILITYINDEX- AssessmentsAsmartphone(orotherfuturemobiledevice)applicationorsimplepointofsaletoolinformsandeducates

consumersaboutpurchasingdecisions.Similarto(andascommonas)foodlabelling,butinsteadofnutritionalfacts

itprovidescrediblesustainabilityfacts,suchastheamountofwaterusedduringproductionorchemicalusage.The

otherpossibilitywouldbetocreateanaggregatedsustainabilityindex.

PLEASEASSESSTHEFOLLOWINGCONCEPT:

"Aconsumerlevelsustainabilityindexiswidelyusedbyshoppers"

-4 -3 -2 -1 0 1 2 3 4(highly

negative)(highlypositive)

2.1

Impactonrestorationofthenaturalenvironment(average;basedupon19assessmentswithst.dev.=1.24)

-4 -3 -2 -1 0 1 2 3 4(highly

negative)(highlypositive)

1.9

Impactonworkingconditionsandpoverty(average;basedupon20assessmentswithst.dev.=1.39)

0 5 10 15 20 25

9.5

ETM-earliestpossibletimeforthisconcepttoreachmainstreaminyears

(average;basedupon20assessmentswithst.dev.=5.51)

Respondents valued highly positively the impact on the restoration of natural environment of the index. However, thereseems to be more dispersion in answers than in previous questions. A similar trend is visible in the impact on workingconditions and poverty. When it comes to the earliest possible time to reach mainstream, the difference amongst participantsremain high (with standard deviation = 5.51) and the ETM - comparatively short.

Especiallyworthnoting

60

E.1.EXTENDEDPRODUCERRESPONSIBILITY- AssessmentsMostnationsenforceextendedproducerresponsibility(forpost-consumerorunsoldgoods)requiringfashion

companiestoreducetheiramountofwaste.

PLEASEASSESSTHEFOLLOWINGCONCEPT:

"Worldwideintroductionofextendedproducerresponsibilityinthefashionindustry"

-4 -3 -2 -1 0 1 2 3 4(highly

negative)(highlypositive)

3.1

Impactonrestorationofthenaturalenvironment(average;basedupon19assessmentswithst.dev.=0.52)

-4 -3 -2 -1 0 1 2 3 4(highly

negative)(highlypositive)

1.3

Impactonworkingconditionsandpoverty(average;basedupon19assessmentswithst.dev.=1.2)

0 5 10 15 20 25

9.7

ETM-earliestpossibletimeforthisconcepttoreachmainstreaminyears

(average;basedupon19assessmentswithst.dev.=5.13)

Introduction of extended producer responsibility in the fashion industry was evaluated with a high congruence as havingstrongly positive impact on the restoration of natural environment. There is less accordance regarding the impact on workingconditions and poverty as well as less but still relatively strong positive impact on that measure. Dispersion betweenrespondents remain the same as in the case of previous questions and ETM still varies around relatively short term of 10years.

Especiallyworthnoting

61

F.1.FIBERSANDPROCESSINGINNOVATION- AssessmentsAnewgenerationoffibresandprocessingtechnologiesgomainstreamallowinglow-energyand/orlow-water

recyclingofclothingandanet-positiveimpact(ontheenvironment)duringprocessingandmaintaining.

PLEASEASSESSTHEFOLLOWINGCONCEPT:

"Newtypesoffibresandprocessingtechnologiesopenupnewpossibilities"

-4 -3 -2 -1 0 1 2 3 4(highly

negative)(highlypositive)

2.9

Impactonrestorationofthenaturalenvironment(average;basedupon18assessmentswithst.dev.=0.73)

-4 -3 -2 -1 0 1 2 3 4(highly

negative)(highlypositive)

0.9

Impactonworkingconditionsandpoverty(average;basedupon17assessmentswithst.dev.=1.17)

0 5 10 15 20 25

8.3

ETM-earliestpossibletimeforthisconcepttoreachmainstreaminyears

(average;basedupon18assessmentswithst.dev.=3.77)

According to the dataset, respondents assessed also highly positively and with a comparatively strong accordance the conceptof new possibilities being opened up by new types of fibers and processing. The impact on working conditions and povertywas also assessed positively nevertheless, with less congruence. Regarding ETM, there is less dispersion amongst respondentsthan in other questions, but the standard deviation remains relatively high.

Especiallyworthnoting

62

G.1.GLOBALAWARENESS- AssessmentsGlobalmarketingstrategyfocusedonraisingawarenessandincreasingeducationaroundsustainabilityissuesis

launched.Itisaconcentratedeffortbyamajorsegmentofthefashionindustry- withkeyplayersallspeakinginone

voice.Thestrategycoversmanydifferentchannels,anditsmessagesareadaptedandtargetedtobemeaningful

andrelevantineveryregionoftheworld.

PLEASEASSESSTHEFOLLOWINGCONCEPT:

"Globalsustainabilityawarenessraisingstrategyislaunched"

-4 -3 -2 -1 0 1 2 3 4(highly

negative)(highlypositive)

2.4

Impactonrestorationofthenaturalenvironment(average;basedupon18assessmentswithst.dev.=1.24)

-4 -3 -2 -1 0 1 2 3 4(highly

negative)(highlypositive)

2.3

Impactonworkingconditionsandpoverty(average;basedupon18assessmentswithst.dev.=0.89)

0 5 10 15 20 25

5

ETM-earliestpossibletimeforthisconcepttoreachmainstreaminyears

(average;basedupon18assessmentswithst.dev.=2.5)

Respondents assessed highly positively, both in terms of impact on the restoration of the natural environment as well as onworking conditions and poverty, the possibility of global awareness strategy. However, it seems to be more accordanceamongst participants when in comes to impact on working conditions than natural environment. Eventually, the concept wasevaluated to reach the mainstream rather quickly - in 5 years - with a relative congruence among respondents. This is the firstconcept reaching such an accordance regarding the ETM in the study.

Especiallyworthnoting

63

H.1.HIGHCONCENTRATION- AssessmentsThefashionindustryishighlyconsolidated/concentratedthrougheitherassetownershiporformalalliances.Key

playersareeasytoidentifyandtogethertheyareabletoenforcesustainablesolutionsacrossthewholeindustry.

PLEASEASSESSTHEFOLLOWINGCONCEPT:

"Keyplayersinthefashionindustryworktogethertoenforceindustry-widesustainablesolutions"

-4 -3 -2 -1 0 1 2 3 4(highly

negative)(highlypositive)

2.6

Impactonrestorationofthenaturalenvironment(average;basedupon18assessmentswithst.dev.=1.15)

-4 -3 -2 -1 0 1 2 3 4(highly

negative)(highlypositive)

2.3

Impactonworkingconditionsandpoverty(average;basedupon18assessmentswithst.dev.=1.13)

0 5 10 15 20 25

8.9

ETM-earliestpossibletimeforthisconcepttoreachmainstreaminyears

(average;basedupon18assessmentswithst.dev.=5.21)

Concentration of the fashion industry around formal alliances of key players was evaluated rather positively as well as itsimpact on working conditions and poverty. However, in comparison with other concepts, results are more spread out and lessclose to the average than previous ones. ETM still remains rather a measure with the least congruity amongst respondentsand the time is still being equivalent to around 9 years.

Especiallyworthnoting

64

I.1.HIGHLYDETAILEDSUSTAINABILITYREPORTING- AssessmentsThemajorityoffinancinginstitutions(banks,investmentfunds,etc.)requirecompanieswithinthefashionindustry

tomaintainacrediblesystemfordocumentingdatainareassuchaspurchasingpractices,wages,otherworking

conditions,chemicalusageandtheenvironmentalimpactoftheirproducts,etc.Thisisnecessaryiftheywishto

obtainfinancing.Companieswithinthefashionindustrymaydothisviameansofacertifiedstandardsystem.

PLEASEASSESSTHEFOLLOWINGCONCEPT:

"Highlydetailedsustainabilityreportingismandatoryinalllendingandinvestmentagreementswithmajorfinancial

institutions"

-4 -3 -2 -1 0 1 2 3 4(highly

negative)(highlypositive)

1.8

Impactonrestorationofthenaturalenvironment(average;basedupon19assessmentswithst.dev.=1.4)

-4 -3 -2 -1 0 1 2 3 4(highly

negative)(highlypositive)

1.9

Impactonworkingconditionsandpoverty(average;basedupon20assessmentswithst.dev.=1.5)

0 5 10 15 20 25

8.6

ETM-earliestpossibletimeforthisconcepttoreachmainstreaminyears

(average;basedupon20assessmentswithst.dev.=3.39)

Introduction of a highly detailed sustainability reporting was assessed in average rather positively by the respondents bothregarding the impact on the restoration of natural environment as well as working conditions and poverty. However, it isvisible that there is less consistency amongst participants and that answers are relatively more spread out. The ETM remainsequal to around 8.6 years with relative congruity but still quite dispersed.

Especiallyworthnoting

65

J.1.INTRODUCINGRESALE/SECOND-HANDMODELS- AssessmentsResaleorsecond-handisnowacommonbusinessmodelinthefashionindustry.Nearlyhalfofallstockinretail

storescomesfromthesecond-handmarket.Clothingdesignhaschangedtofittheneedsofthisnewbusiness

model- clothesarenoweasiertorepairandalter.

PLEASEASSESSTHEFOLLOWINGCONCEPT:

"Themajorityofclothingcompaniesintroducearesale/second-handbusinessmodeltotheirprofile"

-4 -3 -2 -1 0 1 2 3 4(highly

negative)(highlypositive)

2.6

Impactonrestorationofthenaturalenvironment(average;basedupon18assessmentswithst.dev.=0.78)

-4 -3 -2 -1 0 1 2 3 4(highly

negative)(highlypositive)

0.6

Impactonworkingconditionsandpoverty(average;basedupon18assessmentswithst.dev.=0.98)

0 5 10 15 20 25

9.1

ETM-earliestpossibletimeforthisconcepttoreachmainstreaminyears

(average;basedupon18assessmentswithst.dev.=4.82)

According to the results, a potential introduction of the resale/second-hand models to the fashion industry was assessedstrongly positively in terms of impact on the restoration of natural environment. On the other hand, respondents evaluatedless but still positively its impact on working conditions and poverty. As in other cases, the ETM remains equivalent to circa 9years with strong dispersion between answers, relatively to the average.

Especiallyworthnoting

66

K.1.MAJORITYOFCLOTHINGISLOCALLYPRODUCED- AssessmentsThefashionindustry’svaluechainismadeupofthousandsoflocalchains.Thismodelgeneratesbenefitsfromboth

thephenomenonofnear-shoringofproductionandtheinnovativetechnologiesenablingtheself-productionof

clothesbycustomers(automaticsewingmachines,3Dprinting,spray-onclothes,etc.).Thefashionvaluechainisno

longeralargeglobalchaininwhicheachlinkislocatedindifferentpartsoftheworld.

PLEASEASSESSTHEFOLLOWINGCONCEPT:

"Themajorityofclothingislocallyproduced"

-4 -3 -2 -1 0 1 2 3 4(highly

negative)(highlypositive)

1.5

Impactonrestorationofthenaturalenvironment(average;basedupon19assessmentswithst.dev.=0.96)

-4 -3 -2 -1 0 1 2 3 4(highly

negative)(highlypositive)

0.6

Impactonworkingconditionsandpoverty(average;basedupon19assessmentswithst.dev.=1.61)

0 5 10 15 20 25

16.2

ETM-earliestpossibletimeforthisconcepttoreachmainstreaminyears

(average;basedupon19assessmentswithst.dev.=4.84)

Basing on the results, local production of clothes was evaluated rather positively by respondents by its impact on therestoration of natural environment with relative congruity amongst them. Locality of production seems to be judged lesssignificant for working conditions and poverty but also the dispersion between answers is higher than in the previousmeasure. What is interesting, is that the concept was evaluated to reach the mainstream only in 16 years, but this measurestill remains the least unequivocal.

Especiallyworthnoting

67

L.1.TAXREGULATIONSFORINCREASINGSUSTAINABILITY- AssessmentsMostnationshaveimplementedtaxationrequiringcompaniestointroducenaturalcapitalaccountingaswellas

targetedtaxincentivesfocusedonimprovingpracticesandboostingR&D.

PLEASEASSESSTHEFOLLOWINGCONCEPT:

"Introductionoftaxregulationstargetedatincreasingsustainabilityinthefashionindustry"

-4 -3 -2 -1 0 1 2 3 4(highly

negative)(highlypositive)

2.6

Impactonrestorationofthenaturalenvironment(average;basedupon18assessmentswithst.dev.=0.78)

-4 -3 -2 -1 0 1 2 3 4(highly

negative)(highlypositive)

1.9

Impactonworkingconditionsandpoverty(average;basedupon18assessmentswithst.dev.=1.08)

0 5 10 15 20 25

9.9

ETM-earliestpossibletimeforthisconcepttoreachmainstreaminyears

(average;basedupon18assessmentswithst.dev.=6.09)

According to respondents, introduction of tax regulations for increasing sustainability is assessed concordantly to have a highlypositive impact on the restoration of natural environment. Respondents are less congruent, but still judge in accordancerelatively positive impact on working conditions and poverty of this innovation as well. Without change, the ETM remains theleast congruent measure being in average equal to around 10 years.

Especiallyworthnoting

68

M.1.WAGESINTHEFASHIONINDUSTRY- AssessmentsEveryfashionindustryworkerearnsafairlivingwage,whichissetaccordingtotheregion’scostofliving.

Companiescomplianceingrantingthisfairlivingwagetoallemployeesismonitoredbylocalgovernmentsand

globalinstitutions.

PLEASEASSESSTHEFOLLOWINGCONCEPT:

"Fairanddecentlivingwageinthefashionindustryisaworldwidestandard"

-4 -3 -2 -1 0 1 2 3 4(highly

negative)(highlypositive)

0.9

Impactonrestorationofthenaturalenvironment(average;basedupon18assessmentswithst.dev.=0.87)

-4 -3 -2 -1 0 1 2 3 4(highly

negative)(highlypositive)

3.5

Impactonworkingconditionsandpoverty(average;basedupon19assessmentswithst.dev.=0.96)

0 5 10 15 20 25

12.4

ETM-earliestpossibletimeforthisconcepttoreachmainstreaminyears

(average;basedupon19assessmentswithst.dev.=5.78)

Concept of fair and decent living wage in the fashion industry was assessed by respondents to have, on one hand, a smallpositive impact on the restoration of the natural environment but on the other hand a very significant impact on workingconditions and poverty. Assessments were made with a similar conformity. Nevertheless, as pointed out a few timespreviously, participants do not seem to agree regarding the ETM, for this concept to be around 12 years, in which dispersionremains still relatively high.

Especiallyworthnoting

69

N.1.WORKER-DRIVENINITIATIVES- AssessmentsWorker-DrivenInitiativesareworker-ledprocessesofsecuringtheprotectionofhumanrights.Theyarebuiltonan

industry-specifichumanrightscodeofconduct,designedbyworkersandtargetedatlongstandingabusesthat

workersintheindustryexperiencefirst-hand.

PLEASEASSESSTHEFOLLOWINGCONCEPT:

"ThemajorityoffashioncompanieshaveembeddedWorker-DrivenInitiatives"

-4 -3 -2 -1 0 1 2 3 4(highly

negative)(highlypositive)

0.4

Impactonrestorationofthenaturalenvironment(average;basedupon18assessmentswithst.dev.=0.85)

-4 -3 -2 -1 0 1 2 3 4(highly

negative)(highlypositive)

2.1

Impactonworkingconditionsandpoverty(average;basedupon19assessmentswithst.dev.=1.22)

0 5 10 15 20 25

8.8

ETM-earliestpossibletimeforthisconcepttoreachmainstreaminyears

(average;basedupon19assessmentswithst.dev.=5.32)

Worker-driven initiatives were seen by respondents as having more potential impact on working conditions and poverty thanon the restoration of natural environment. However, for the latter, participants are less accordant and their answers morespread out. When it comes to the ETM, the average time seems rather repetitive, as equivalent to around 9 years the samefor dispersion - which still remains relatively high amongst respondents.

Especiallyworthnoting

70

A.2.AUTOMATIONREVOLUTION- Comments

Abarriertoachievingthiscouldbe... ! " Asolutionfacilitatingachievingthiscouldbe...

! "

Futureofworkisatopicifeelverypassionateabout.Ofcourseweallwanthumanstodohighvalueworkandmachinesrepetitive,lowskilledwork.Butthisrequiresretraining,re-skillingmillions,particularlywomenorhiddenworkers.Perhapsifweintroducedauniversalbasicincomethatmeetsbasicneeds,buthowrealisticisit?

10 0

universalbasicincomeandprovidingdisplacedworkerswithalternatives.Higherincomegivenautomationshouldtranslatetoincreasedwagesandbenefitstoremainingworkers.

11 0

Thesocialandeconomiccostofmassunemployment.

10 0

Focusingonhumandevelopmentandproductiveassetstosmallholdersproducersmaymitigatethenegativeimpactofautomation.

9 0

thiscouldresultinalargenumberofjoblossessowhatwouldhappentothesepeople?additionallyincreasingspeedtomarketisonlygoingtofeedthefastfashionmachinewhichwouldactuallyhaveadetrimentalimpactontheenvironment,andwouldnothelpchangeconsumerbehaviour.

9 0

Theadoptionofsuchautomationshouldcomealongwithactionstotrai,recycleandincludeworkersinotheractivitiesinthissupplychain.Otherwise,theactionissociallyirresponsible.Companiesshouldtakethecostofthis,otherwiseitwillbecomeacaseinwhichtechnologicaldevelopmenthasmeantanincreaseinthecostofsocialassistance

9 -1

Whilethejobscreatedbyautomationarehigherquality,theywillleadtothelayoffofgarmentworkers,especiallywomenwholackaccesstoeducation.Butthereductioninoverageswouldbehuge.

9 0

It'sinterestingtoseesomanycommentsabouthowdifficultitwouldbetoretrainpeoplewhooncenevermadeclothingandweretrained.IlikeShimmyTech'sformulatosolveproblemsbyautomatingmanualprocesseswithintheproductdevelopmentcycle&toupskillfactoryworkersusingvideogametechnology,touchscreen&speechtotext

5 0

thecreationofalternativesandstandardizationofuniversalbasicincomeforworkersmightnotcopewiththefastdevelopmentintechnologyforautomation.

7 -1

embracingtheIndustry4.0modelforthefashionindustry.Maketoorderratherthanmakeandhopeitsells...

6 -3

[continuedonnextpage]71

A.2.AUTOMATIONREVOLUTION- Comments(continued)

Respondents assumed quite often that the biggest barriers are linked to potential layoffs and in consequence - lack ofemployment - due to automation. Whatsoever, participants mostly agreed that universal basic income would be a facilitatingsolution as well as necessary skilling and re-training workshops. What is important, respondents mostly do not agree with thecomment that full automation might lead to equalization in incomes and positive impact on environment.

Especiallyworthnoting

Abarriertoachievingthiscouldbe... ! " Asolutionfacilitatingachievingthiscouldbe...

! "

Answered0hereontiming..asweneedmoreunderstandofthewhatheretobeabletoanswerimpactandtiming.Sorry-- Iknowthatisatheme.

7 -4

Technologiesendcurrentjobs,butcreatenon-existingothers.Wejustneedtobecarefulwithhumandevelopmenttonotincreaseinequality.

3 0

Idon'tthinkthatitisapriorityinoursocietymoment.Wehavealotofthingstodo.inordertoequalizeincomesandrespectnature,lessworkersandmoremachinesisnotmthemainlythingstodo

5 -4

Theimpactofautomationdependsontheaimsofautomation- iftheyaretoprotectworkersandbettervaluenature- thenengageinautomationpossibilitiesaccordingly.Iftheaimistoincreasemargins,reducesocialresponsibility,increaseproductionandthroughput,thentheresultswillbedetrimentaltoworkersandtonature.

1 0

Idon'tthinkthelifecyclecomplexitiesofclothingmanufacturingeasilylendthemselvestomake- to-orderormake-on-demandmodelsofmanufacturingexceptforhighend/highvalueitems

4 -6

72

B.2.CIRCULARECONOMY- Comments

Abarriertoachievingthiscouldbe... ! " Asolutionfacilitatingachievingthiscouldbe...

! "

thehugeprofitmotiveremains. 10 0

Designpublicpoliciestoincentivizeandcreateaninstitutionalenvironmentfavorableforcircularvaluechain.

9 -1

Thatsomanypeoplebelievethatthecirculareconomyisgoingtosavetheplanetwhileutilizingmoreofit'snaturalresourcestomakemorestuffisinsane.It'sgreattothinkaboutdesigningforcircularitybutit'sevenbettertoconsidermakingless.

9 0

Now,weareinparadise...shurethtaisagreatidea,butthetopicis:how?Alotofstakeholdersshouldbeablletochangehermindinthewayofthecolectiveandnotonlyprivatevantages.Arewepreparedforthat?

8 -2

Unlesstherearetariffs,taxes,andextendedproducerresponsibilitylegislationputintoplacetosupportthecircularity,it'snotgoingtohappen.

9 0

Thisisagooddescriptionforcircularity- alas,itisnottheunderstandingsharedbymanybusinessestalkingaboutit.ifnatureandhumanequityreallyareatthecentreoftheintentionofthosethinkingaboutthis- thenwecanbehopeful- ifthemantraofdoublegrowthhalveimpactisbelieved,thenweareonahidingtodevastation

1 0

Again..thisismuchhardertosayforthesocialside..thatisnotcapturedasdirectly..THetimelinehereasinallisimlythe"concept"notthatthefullideaisrealized.Thisisacriticallydifferentpoint.Onthefullideaimplemented..abitmoreanalysiswouldbeneeded.

8 0

Globalcommitmentofkeyplayersoftheindustry.Eg:post-consumptionspackagesagreementfirmedattheWorldEconomicForumengagedCoca-Cola,Unilever,Danone,P&Gandotherstotransitionto100%compostable,100%reusableand100%recyclablepackagesby2030.

4 -4

[continuedonnextpage]73

B.2.CIRCULARECONOMY- Comments(continued)

It is important to underline that respondents focused more on barriers than on solutions in this section. Profit motives areseen by the majority of commentators as the main barrier for this concept. Moreover, behavioural and cultural aspects offashion industries as well as lack of well-tailored public policies and globalization are considered as main barriers for thisconcept to achieve mainstream. As one of the top comments underlined, companies and governments do not seem ready tofight against inequality of opportunities and social injustice in the field of fashion industry.

Especiallyworthnoting

Abarriertoachievingthiscouldbe... ! " Asolutionfacilitatingachievingthiscouldbe...

! "

Circularityismuchmoreimpactfulwhenitisimplementedlocally,butthecurrentfashionindustryisextremelyglobalized.Thisresourcedistributionwillbeextremelydifficulttoundo.

8 0

theneedfordeepandmassiveculturalchangeonthepartofconsumersthatcouldputpressureonthebehaviourofbigcompanies.

8 0

Thefashionindustrygetsabreakfromlookingattheelephantintheroomwhichisitsenoughtojustkeepmakingmorestuffandrecyclingit.Notsustainablewhenyouaremakingmoreandpullingmoreresourcesevenifkeepingitintheloop.

6 0

globalcooperationwouldberequiredtoachievethis,withenhancedchainofcustodysystemsandthedevelopmentofmaterialsthataresuitableforacircularsystem.Atthemomentwedonothaveadequatetechnologytoseparateandrecycleallfibres.Plusweneedtoconsidertheenvironmentalimpactsoftransportationandprocessing.

5 0

Thiscouldbehugeforenvironment.Notclearonthesocial.Butthetimeittakesforimplementationvsconcpetadoptionscouldbemuchlongerthat10years,dependingontheotherfactorsatplay.Thisdeservesastrategicforesightactivity.

7 -2

74

C.2.CLOTHINGASASERVICE- Comments

Abarriertoachievingthiscouldbe... ! " Asolutionfacilitatingachievingthiscouldbe...

! "

Thiscouldincentivisedesignofhigherqualityclothingwhichcouldwithstandmanywears,reducingdemandandthereforeindustry'snaturalresourcedependency.Howevermoreresearchisneededtakingintoaccountpotentialenvironmentaltradeoffsplussocialimpact,andwhetherthemarketwouldacceptitacrossallclothingcategories.

8 0

I'mexcitedaboutthepotentialofrentingforoccasionsortoexperiment,Ialsoloveowningmylovedclothesthathavehistory&memories,andkeepingthemforalifetime.I'mnot100%clearonthenetenvironmentalimpactofshippingback&forth,drycleaning,packagingetc.Alsointheshorttermthiscouldaffectgarmentworkersegre-skill/re-deploy

9 -1

Thiswouldbeagoodsolutionfortheenvironmentalimpactoftextileproduction- forexamplemorelandcouldbeusedtogrownfoodratherthantextiles,andlessoilcouldbeusedforsynthetics.Butweneedtounderstandtheenvironmentalimpactsofdrycleaning,shippingandotherlogistics.itwouldneeddevelopmentofcleaningtechnologiestostart/

8 0

Ontheonehand,thisbusinessmodelcouldreducethenumberofjobsintheindustry,particularlyinthemainfastfashionsupplyingcountries,butequallyitwouldmeanthatclothingcreatedforrentalwouldneedtobebettermade,whichwouldrequireupskillingworkersandpotentiallycreatingbetterjobs.

9 -1

couldthisendupaffectingemploymentopportunitiesinthepoorestcountrieswherewecurrentlysourcefrom?itcouldinvolveupskillingsomeworkers,butsuchalargeeconomicshiftwouldneedtotakeintoconsiderationalternativeemploymentasthiscouldsignificantlyreducejobopportunities.

7 -1

thehardrealityforourworldinthenext50yearsisthattherewillbetensofmillionsofnewconsumerscomingupofdevelopingeconomieslikeChina&India.Withlimitedresourcesweallhavetoconsumelessforenoughtogoaround.Rentingisagreatsolution.Technologyistheenabler.Companieswillmakemore$sellingservicesthangoods.

8 -1

Thisculturalshiftinconsumers’mindsetisnotdefinitelyalowhangfruit.

6 -3

morebusinessmodelexperimentsinleasingclothes,subscriptionservices,wardrobeinthecloud...

8 -3

challengingconsumer'svaluesofowningandwantforuniqueness,bolsteredbyadvertising.

5 -4

Technologytoeasilyorganize,sort,andprocessthefulfillmentofrentalsandsecondhandclothingwillberequiredtomakethiscosteffective.ThinkRFIDthreadsthatcanbescannedthathelpsAIquicklysortfashion.

7 -2

[continuedonnextpage]75

C.2.CLOTHINGASASERVICE- Comments(continued)

Environmental costs and trade offs of dry cleaning, packaging, shipping and logistics related to clothing service are assumedquite unequivocally as the most significant barriers for this concept. Comments pointing out that introduction of thisinnovation requires changes in consumer's willingness of owning new clothes and huge cultural shift are not valued asimportant by respondents. Respondents in majority also agree that clothing as a service will result in better quality clothesand potentially - better jobs which would require upskilled workers. Moreover, there is a strong congruity that increasingnumber of consumers in the future and progressively limited resources will boost the renting service in the fashion industry,alongside with technology.

Especiallyworthnoting

Abarriertoachievingthiscouldbe... ! " Asolutionfacilitatingachievingthiscouldbe...

! "

Theconceptisapplicableforthewealthygenerationthatwasbornafter1995.Theyalreadylivewithmeaningsproducedcollectively.ButIseeapossibilityoflimitedchangeaboutoldergenerationsandpoorcountries- whowantownershipofclothingandnotpossessionforculturalreasons.

5 -4

HopingI'munderstandingthisoneright.Ifit'saservice,saycustomizationonanexistingpieceofclothing,Iseelotsofopportunitiesforbrandstotapintoeverythingfromtechtoregionalhistorytomakelessclothing&improvewhatcurrentlyexists.Peoplearestillemployed,maybeevenpaidmoreandtheenvironmentlovesgettingtotakeabreather.

6 -3

Thereisnoevidencethat“payasservice”modelisfullyapplicablefornon-durablegoodsasclothes.Italsorequiresahugeculturalshift.Quitedifficulttobelieveitreachesthemainstream.

4 -4

amixedmodelapproachwouldenabledifferentcultures,needs,locationcapabilitiestobebetterengaged.Weshouldnotassumethatincreasingvalue,slowingdownconsumptionnecessitatesreducedemployment.Ifthestartingpointistoofferfulfilling,fairjobs,valuenature'sresroucesandensureviablebusinessmodels- wecanmodeloptions

1 0

theawarenessraisingwithinthefashionindustryandalsotheconsumers.Ifthishappens,thedemandwillbepredictable,therefore,workerscanexpectlong-termandmorestableemployment.

0 -8

76

D.2.CONSUMERLEVELSUSTAINABILITYINDEX- Comments

Abarriertoachievingthiscouldbe... ! " Asolutionfacilitatingachievingthiscouldbe...

! "

Pointofsalesustainabilitytoolsareonlyasgoodastheinformationthatgoesintothem,sohighlydetailedsustainabilityreportingusingacommonglobalframeworkisnecessaryforthetooltobemeaningful.Informationneedstobecomparablebetweenbrandstoinformshoppingchoices,andpresumablythiswouldexcludesmallbrandswithinsufficientdata

13 0

Informationalgovernanceisgrowingwithimpact.Ahighprofilecampaigntoelevatethiswouldbecrtical.

11 -1

Notincludingworkingconditionindex,suchasobservinglivingwage,andnon-exploitativeworkingconditions.

11 0

Similartomypreviouspoint,andagreeingwithothers,Ithinktechnologyinthehandsofconsumershasaroletoplay,andiseethathastheabilitytoreconnectconsumerswithmakers-i.eproductscomefromsomewhere/one&wehavelostthatconnection.Butthemoreimpactfulaspectofthiswouldbethedatacollectedbyindustrytoeffectsystemicchange

9 0

fashionpurchasinginvolvesemotionalaswellasrationalchoices,whilstuseful,thistoolisinsufficientinisolationinrelationtoimprovingworkingconditionsandenvironmentaldegradation.culturechange,designandbusinessmodels,legislationandinvestmentcriteriaallneedtosimultaneouslytakeplace

10 0Giveconsumerspointofsaleinformationtohelpeveryonemakeinformedpurchasingdecisions.

9 -2

[continuedonnextpage]

77

D.2.CONSUMERLEVELSUSTAINABILITYINDEX- Comments(continued)

Abarriertoachievingthiscouldbe... ! " Asolutionfacilitatingachievingthiscouldbe...

! "

Thecomplexityandscopeoftheimpactsofthefashionsupplychainonpeopleandthenaturalenvironmentmeansthatisverydifficulttosummarisesuchimpactsinasingle,consumerfacingindexorscore.Itwouldbeahugetaskforbrandstocollectallthenecessarydataoneveryitemmadeandoversimplificationcouldleadtofalsechoicesbyconsumers.

10 -1

Ilikeverymuchthisidea,Idothinkthatconsumerschoiceisaveryimportantkeytochangetheindustrieschoices.Imean,ideaslikethatispartofsolution,and,Ithink,aimportantpart.

8 -1

Dittotopreviosucomments..theseallneedtobeseentogether- consumerawareenss,narrative,buildingdemandforregulation.

9 -1

Defineclearmetricstodesignenvironmental-Profit&Loss(e-P&L).Eg:Natura&CousingPWC’smethodologymeasuredconsumers’.externalitiesincludingwaste,logisticsandwaterusage.Bydoingthis,awholeofnewinstrumentsandnarrativemaybebuilttoengagetheconsumerasakeystakeholder.

7 -2

Thisisputtingwaytoomuchontheshouldersofconsumerswhoarenotexpertsanddonothavethetimeormotivationtotrytounderstandsuchcomplexassessments.Butasimplifiedratingsystemwouldbecontroversialandhardtoreachaconsensuson.

9 -2

ThereisacaseinBrazilofanappcalled"ModaLivre"("FreeFashion"),whichanalyzesthesupplychain,transparencyandCSRpoliciesofmorethan100companiesandbrandsaboutthefightagainstmodernslavery.Theresultsshowthatmorethan150,000consumershaveusedtheapptopressurecompaniestoadoptnewpolicies.But,ittakestimetoresults.

6 -1

Thearesystemssimilartothis(butsmallscale)suchastheHiggIndexorKering'sopensourceEP&Ltool.Theproblemisthatthesecalculationsarebasedonaveragesoroneexample,wheninrealityeverycottonetc.potentiallyhasdifferentimpactsdependingonwheregrown/howprocessedetc.

7 -1

factsandfiguresaboutsocialandenvironmentalaspectsoffashionneedtobeseeninarelativesense- egNikeMakingappofferscomparisonbetweenoptions,fordesignertomakedecisionsbasedonwhatisofbiggestconcern.Wholelifecycleanalysisonfashionincludeswearerpractices,whichneedtobefactoredintothesetools.

2 0

Whilea"sustainableconsumption"indexisgreatintheory,therealchallengeisthattheconsequencesofscarestoriesornegativeattentionaffectsbusiness'bottomlinestoamuchgreaterextent.Therefore,translatingwideadoptionofanindexbyshoppersintosubstantiveresultswillbedifficult.

7 -2

Whilstaccesstoverifiableandverifiedinformationaboutproductscanbeveryhelpfulinaidingdecisionmakingprocesses,fashionpurchasingdecisionsareseldomsolelyrationalsocialacceptabilityofproducts/materials/fashionhabitsisessentialalongsideinformation.

2 0

[continuedonnextpage]78

D.2.CONSUMERLEVELSUSTAINABILITYINDEX- Comments(continued)

Technological tools such as phone applications associated with production and supply chain information are the mostrepeated solutions’ proposals by respondents. It is also worth mentioning the idea regarding establishing environmental profitand loss account in order to engage also the consumer as a stakeholder and introduce mechanisms of environmental footprintanalysis. The most called barrier is related to the collection of the data and, as a result, simplified rating system, based onaveraged calculations. Such a system will not display detailed information and might be controversial, according torespondents of the study.

Especiallyworthnoting

Abarriertoachievingthiscouldbe... ! " Asolutionfacilitatingachievingthiscouldbe...

! "

Becausechemicalusageinmanufacturingcountriesdoesn'taffectconsumersdirectly,consumerswon'tbeincentivizedtodotheirresearch.Andiftheydid,theymightnotunderstanditanyway,unlessitwasdistilleddownintoanincrediblyreductiveandsimple(andcontroversial)grade.

7 -3Thiscouldresultfrommobilizinganalysisthatisdonetogetherwiththeindustry.

4 -6

Engajetheconsumerstoanalysetheinformationprovidedandmakeachoicebasedonthat.Thinkingaboutthefoodlabelling,whichgiveimportantinformationtotheconsumer(suchasthecontentofsodium,fat,sugar...):howmanyofthemdoreallyleavetheprodutontheshelfbasedonthenutritionfacts?

6 -3

Italldependsontheambitionofthetools- iftheaimistovaluenatureandlabour- thenthecontentneedstoreflectthis- ifitsaboutencouragingpeopletoswitchfromonekindofconsumptiontoanother- ieifconsumptionisatthecentreofthis-thenthetoolisverylimitedatbest- deceptiveandgreenwashingatworst

3 0

Thesetoolsoftentakeareductionistapproach,reducingproblem,ratherthanofferingnewpossibilities- ifthesetoolsareexpandedtotalkaboutstoriesoflowerconsumptionthejoyofkeeping,sharing,mendingetcaswellastalkingaboutpurchase,thentheycouldhavefargreaterpossibilityforpositivechange.

1 -2

79

E.2.EXTENDEDPRODUCERRESPONSIBILITY- Comments

Abarriertoachievingthiscouldbe... ! " Asolutionfacilitatingachievingthiscouldbe...

! "

Ifthelegislationonlyappliestothelargest

companies.Legislationneedsacomparativelylow

turnoverthreshold.

11 -1

Therewouldbewidespreadpublicsupportfor

thistypeoflegislation.Itshouldincludenotjust

theproduct,butanyassociatedpackaging-

particularlyrelevanttounsoldshoes,jewellery

etcwhichcanbeheavilypackagedinbagsand

boxes.

11 0

Thelackoftoolstopressurecompaniestoengage

inthischangewithoutbeingforcedonthepartof

theStates.

10 0

Thiswouldbereallyvaluable,asconsumers

makeeffortstorecycleanddisposeresponsibly

buttherealgainsareatsystemlevel,by

governmentandcorporations.Iwouldgo

upstreamandproposethatlegislationshould

targetproductionandpackagingstandards

beforetheyevenenterthesystem.

10 0

TheUnitedStateshasafreemarketfetish,and

powerfullobbyinggroupsthatcleverlymanageto

alwaysputtheresponsibilityfordisposingproperly

of,frankly,unrecyclablematerialsatthefeetof

consumers.

10 0Needtodemonstratethenetpositiveforkey

actors.Ithinkthiscouldbedone.10 -2

theindustriesinterest.Andthecommitmentofthe

industrieinassumethecosts.Butisimprescindible

ainiciativelikethat.

8 -1

Theengagementofdevelopedcountriesto

pressuretheircompaniestofinancethe

adaptationofproductioninpoorcountries.

8 -2

[continuedonnextpage]80

E.2.EXTENDEDPRODUCERRESPONSIBILITY- Comments(continued)

In this section respondents seem to be quite consistent with their proposals. They often point out that main barriers areassociated to lack of incentives from the side of companies but also, if EPR introduced, lack of tools for oversight, control andenforcement of EPR if not respected. What is significant is that comments mentioning difficulties or impossibilities regardingimplementation of EPR are negatively evaluated. Most solutions are designed around engagement and support from the partof both society and developed countries to introduce such a measure. Participants also underlined a need for EPR coveringnot only big companies but also local ones as well as packaging standards.

Especiallyworthnoting

Abarriertoachievingthiscouldbe... ! " Asolutionfacilitatingachievingthiscouldbe...

! "

Lackofwillingnessofbigproducerstoshoulderthe

costsofEPR.6 0

Nowwedohavetechnologies(suchAIand

BlockChain)totracethevaluechain,implement

smartcontractsandrequireaccountabilityand

responsibilityforallthechain.

1 0

EffectiveEPRwillmostlikelyrequireimpeccablecross-bordercommunicationandincentives.Suchpolicieswillbeverydifficulttocoordinate.

6 -3

thecomplexityoffashion.Forinstance:thereare

unsoldgoodsalsobecauseoftheweather.If

duringtheWintertheweatherdoesn'tgetascold

asexpecteditwillbealotofcoatsunsold.Of

coursethereisalotofsolutionsforthat,suchas

"refresh"theunsoldgoodstoselltheminthenext

year,butitstilltooexpansiveforthe

brands/industry.

4 -4

aniceideathatishardtoenforce 6 -5

81

F.2.FIBERSANDPROCESSINGINNOVATION- Comments

Abarriertoachievingthiscouldbe... ! " Asolutionfacilitatingachievingthiscouldbe...

! "

Hardtosaytimingorimpactonthisone..asit

depndsonwhatnewfibresandprocessesare.

Smartmaterialshavelotsofpotential..buthardto

assesswithoutabitofmoreresearch.

11 0

Iftherewasmoreinvestmentfromgovernments

andfashionbrandsandretailers.Therearesome

pioneeringbrands(Levis,H&M,Adidasetc)

leadingtheway,butoverallrelativelyfew

brandsareworkingonorinvestingininnovative

solutionsandnewtechnologies.

10 0

Likemypreviousanswer,thisisgreatforthe

environmentandinvestmentshouldbemadeinto

researchingnewsmartmaterialsandmakethem

mainstream,butwemustalsoconsider

implicationsforglobalgarmentworkers,farmers,

growersetc.Istillfeeltherealissueisover-

consumptionandwecannotjustbuyourwayout

ofthis.

8 0R&Donsustainablematerialsthatwoulduse

theleastamountofenergy.7 -2

Notlookingathowthesenewfibersand“lab

grown”materialsinteractwiththecarboncycle,

thefeedstocksgrowntofuelsyntheticbiology,and

whoisimpactedbytheselandscapepressuresisa

hugeoversight.ThereAREgreattechnologiesbut

stilllotsofchemicals.Pickyourpoison.

8 0

greateruseoftechnologyingeneraltosolve

someofoursocialandenvironmentalchallenges

wouldhelppushthesciencealong.

6 -3

Whatistherawmaterialimpactinvolvedinthe

productionoftheserecyclablefibers?Theimpact

couldbesmallatthetimeofrecycling,buthighat

initialproduction.Inadditiontheusingofmaterials

producedinthelaboratoryusuallyexcludeworkers

whoworkintheproductionofnaturalfibers.It's

necessarytothinkhowtoincludethematthis

chain

8 0

aspartofanewfashionsystem- ieoneofthe

workablepossibilities,whenbalancedwith

others.thematerialmixneedstobediversified

forsure.differentstyles,peoples'needs,

locationsetcrequiredifferentmaterials- atthe

moment,wearetooreliantoncottonandon

polyester- itsaboutbroadeningwhatweuse

0 0

evenifsuchtechnologiesbecomecost-competitive

andmainstreamed,theywillstillrequireenergy

andwater,orotherenvironmentalinputs.It's

difficulttounderstandhowtheirusagewillleadto

net-positiveimpact,asopposedto"lessbad"

(whichiscertainlypossible).

8 -1

Developingnewtechnologiestoscale,reduce

asymmetricinformationandgainefficiencymay

help.

2 -3

[continuedonnextpage]82

F.2.FIBERSANDPROCESSINGINNOVATION- Comments(continued)

In this section, predominant number of comments regards barriers and not solutions. Participants often point out that newfibers and processing have implications for their natural substitutes - as they are excluding global garment workers, farmingeconomies. Such technologies require also lots of environmental inputs and large number of chemicals. What is also worthmentioning, is a comment underlining that new fibers technology do not reduce the problem of overproduction and waste.The most valued solutions regard need for more investment from governments, fashion brands and retailers to work on newtechnologies as well as investment in R&D to create materials. Such an approach would be more energy efficient.

Especiallyworthnoting

Abarriertoachievingthiscouldbe... ! " Asolutionfacilitatingachievingthiscouldbe...

! "

theissueisthatthisdoesnothelptheperception

ofclothingbeingdisposable- companieslikeH&M

areresearchingrecyclingtechnologies,butsothat

theycanstillcontinuetosellatridiculousvolumes,

lettingcustomersbelieveitiszeroimpactasthe

clotheswillberecycledwhentheyarefinished

withthem.

7 0

wealsoneedtoconsidertheimplicationsfor

naturalfibres,farmingeconomies,potentiallossof

jobs.howeverifthepopulationkeepsgrowingand

consumptionkeepsgoingupwhoknowwhat

affectthissystemwouldhave

7 0

Thesetechnologiesaregreatfortheenvironment,

butwhathappenstothemillionsoffarmerswho

relyoncotton,hemp,linen,leather,silk,etc.for

theirlivelihoodwhenallofourfabricsbecome

semi-syntheticorsynthetic?

7 -1

theworldinequality.Idon'tseenewtypesoffibres

andprocessingtechnologiesimpactingpositevely

onpoverty,becausethefibresproducerswould

stayondevelopedordevelopingcountries,

improvingthetechnologyandtheirknowledge,

whiletheundevelopedcountrieswouldstay

"serving"theotherones(withcheapworkforce,

i.e.).

6 -1

Idon'tthinkthatisamatteroftechnology.Sure,

technologycanhelp,butwehavealotofpriority

decisions,likewearediscussinghere,before

believethattechnologywillsaveus!

6 -3

83

G.2.GLOBALAWARENESS- Comments

Abarriertoachievingthiscouldbe... ! " Asolutionfacilitatingachievingthiscouldbe...

! "

Aglobalmarketingstrategyisrelativelyeasyto

agreeupon,itmakesbusinesssenseaseven

brandswhohaven'tcaredsofarnowmustcare,

becausetheirconsumersdo.Theproblemis

greenwashingVsrealchange.Thereisalackof

agreementonvocabulary,numbers,dataetcand

thismurkinessallowssometopushmessagesout

withoutcreatingrealchange.

9 0

producingalsoacoherentvoicethat

sustainabilityincludesworkers'wages,health

andsafety;thatconsumerinterests'are

necessarilylinkedtothoseoftheproducers'

includingthoseinthesupplychain.Theglobal

awarenessstrategyshouldtherefore,address

systemicproblemsleadingtoconsumer'scritical

masstakingactiontopressuretocompanies.

8 0

Theinterestsofindustry.Ihavemydoubtsifthey

couldandwantdothat.But,itisanecessary

action,ifwereallywannatoachievegoodimpacts

insustainabilityquestionsANDworkerslife

conditionsandincomes.

9 -1

Thisstrategyneedstobefoundedon

transparency,sothatitisownedbyconsumers

andthepublic,ratherthanthecompanies

themselves.Radicaltransparencyandadoption

ofdata-drivensolutionswillhelptoprevent

greenwashing.

8 0

Theproblem:amarketingcampaignshowingthe

realcausesofthelabourexploitationandthe

environmentdamageswillhavelittlesuccess

becauseitwillpointtoresponsibilities,anda

campaignthatonlytouchestheproblem

superficiallyhasagreatchanceofsuccess.

8 -1

Globalawarenessmustbeabusinessimperative.

Weneedtousethepowerofbusinesssectoras

aforceforgoodandembeditintheglobal

agendaofeconomicsystem.

7 -1

Maynotbepossibleforalotofsmallbrandsand

startups2 -10

Thereisincreasingmovementtowardsthis,but

thereisstillalackofeducationforbrands

themselvestobeabletocommunicate

accuratelywithconsumers,orconsistently.The

UnionofConcernedResearchersaimstoaddress

thisbydevelopingstandardterminologyand

updatingopensourceresourceslikeWikipedia

(notacademicbutthe1stplacepeoplelook)

6 0

Narrowdowntheideaof"sustainability"to

somethingincommonlike(ex)ahugeindustry

wideacknowledgementofwaterscarcityand

pollutionandworktoremedytheproblemsasa

globalcohort.Betransparentaboutwhat

challengesareandstepsbeingtakentoremedy.

Useprogressasmessagetoshowcomplexity.

5 -1

[continuedonnextpage]84

G.2.GLOBALAWARENESS- Comments(continued)

It is worth mentioning that respondents more often focused on seeking for solutions than obstacles for this concept.Participants often note that an enabler for the global awareness strategy are tools ensuring transparency and oversight of agood implementation. Engagement from various sectors; starting from business, through marketing, branding and ending atgovernments and citizens is also needed to ensure sustainability. The last comment, although only with one thumb up, coversthis idea. It is worth noting, that lack of large number of evaluation of this specific comment might be due to the latesubmission of the comment, e.g. just before closing the study, which does not impact the accuracy of the idea. Main obstaclesconsist in lack of incentives and interest in the industry sector as well as risk of greenwashing.

Especiallyworthnoting

Abarriertoachievingthiscouldbe... ! " Asolutionfacilitatingachievingthiscouldbe...

! "

changingtheorientationoftheindustrytowean

awayfromcurrentmodelofdemandinghigh

qualityproductsattheleastpossiblecosts,

whichinducesaracetothebottomintermsof

wagesofbenefits.

5 -4

ExtinctionRebellion,SchoolsforClimateStrikes,

FashionRevolutionareegsofthisstartingto

happen.Academicinstitutionscanalsoteach

longtermthrivingofgraduatesalongsidetheir

shorttermemployment

1 0

thateveryone- businesses,citizens,educators,

politiciansetcREALLYwanttocommitto

environmentalandsocialsustainability- notthat

theywanttofindwaystoreducerisksofcurrent

practice.Itwouldbeachievableiftheaimplaces

natureatitsheart- witheconomyasa

constituentpart,notviceversa

1 0

Thisisinfactalreadyunderwaywithco-

operationbetweene.g.EllenMacarthur

Foundation,GlobalFashionAgenda,etc.

4 -5

85

H.2.HIGHCONCENTRATION- Comments

Abarriertoachievingthiscouldbe... ! " Asolutionfacilitatingachievingthiscouldbe...

! "

Aindustryactionisfundamental,butwillmainly

reachtheformalandregularmarket.Inaddition,

therearelargecompaniesthathaveavoidedacting

inacollectiveactiontoimprovingtheirsupply

chainstoavoidrevealingwhotheirsuppliers.

9 0

Collaborationiskey- ifcorporationscanlook

pastshareholders'valueonly.Assumingintentis

there,thedifficultyisthefragmentationof

supplychains.Transparentandopendatacould

help.Atthemomentmanylargeindustryplayers

onlyhavedataabouttoplinesuppliers.Thisisa

massiveissueforanyconcertedeffort.

9 -1

thatindustry-wideactionwillonlyworkiftheleast

commondenominatorcompaniesdonotlowerthe

standardsforeveryone.

9 0

Developacommunityofpracticestoprototype

collaborativesolutionsthatmayinfluence

systemchange.

7 -3

Again,theinterestsofindustries,butitwillbe

great,itsoundslikeamusic,thebigindustries

doingeffortstosolvetheproblemsthatthey

created.

9 -1

Iseethecollaborationofbigplayerson

consumptionandproductionsideiscritical.this

couplewithothersinthefullecocsystemofthe

goodsandservicesaroundthisindustryis

critical.

6 -2

Todate,theindustryhasbeensingularly

uncollaborative,soachievingthislevelof

collaborationmaybeharderthananticipatedasit

willinvolveachangeateverylevelofabrandfor

themtoworktogethertoenforcesustainable

solutions.

8 -1

Haveamastermindlikecohortthataidsthe

industryandiscomprisedofspecialistsinallthe

areasof"sustainability."Theglobalplayershave

togothroughthatonebodytomessageout

whattheyareactuallydoing.ImagineClean

ClothesCampaignmeetstheNRDCyetthey

worktogetherasone.Soundscrazybut...

4 -1

Thereiscurrentlyalackofcollaborationandeven

consensusonterminologyandnecessaryactionsto

improvesocialandenvironmentalconditionsinthe

fashionsystem.TheParisAgreementisalready

provingtobedifficulttofollow/enforce,soitis

difficulttoimaginehowwecouldreachaglobal

consensus

7 0

ifthemembershipincludesrepresentationofall

involvedinthesystem,equityinvoiceand

supportforthosewhoseinvolvementmay

involveriskforthemandwhotheyrepresent.

1 0

[continuedonnextpage]86

H.2.HIGHCONCENTRATION Comments(continued)

According to the comments, potential lowering of standards by companies might be a barrier to achieve effective "collectiveaction" within fashion industry as well as fragmentation of supply chains. Moreover, a few participants also underline the factthat industries seem to be intrinsically uncollaborative. Such a situation would be an obstacle towards reaching a consensus inthe future, especially between big companies who are big stakeholders and small companies, responsible for small shares. Asa solution, a few respondents proposed that gathering and stocking of data as well as transparency would be a remedium forfragmented supply chain. Eventually, creation of group of experts for sustainability might foster collaboration betweencompanies.

Especiallyworthnoting

Abarriertoachievingthiscouldbe... ! " Asolutionfacilitatingachievingthiscouldbe...

! "

Althoughthereisconsolidationinbrand/retailand

existingvehiclesforpre-competitiveco-operation

thesupplychainsarehighlyfragmented.Thebig

playerswillfindithardtospreadbestpracticeto

the80%ofactorswhomakeuo20%ofthe

industry

7 -1

ego 4 -5

87

I.2.HIGHLYDETAILEDSUSTAINABILITYREPORTING Comments

Abarriertoachievingthiscouldbe... ! " Asolutionfacilitatingachievingthiscouldbe...

! "

Thisisasuperimportantavenueforchange.But

gettingthedatatodothiseffectively,andpressure

toenablethis..itwouldtakebroadersocial

pressureswithtiesthistotheotheritemsonthis

list.

13 0

transparencyandaccountabilityfromfarmto

storebybrands.Easytounderstandand

acceptabledisclosuresaroundsocialand

environmentalimpactaccessibleatthepointof

sale

11 0

ASwithmanyoftheitemsinhissurveythey

cannotbeseeninosialation.Thecooridnation

aroundkeylayers,coupledwithcosumer

awarenesscanhelptofacilitatereagulationand

taxes.Iseetheseeachtimelineascritically

dependentontheothers.

12 0

Buildingananlaysisthatshowstheimpacton

society/environmentandontheindustry

bottomline.Thiswouldhavetobedoneina

highprofilemannertogalvenizesupportand

attention.

10 0

Theactionofthebanksandthefinancialsystemis

veryimportant.However,onlydemandingreports

withoutthefinancialinstitutionsthemselvesbeing

forcedtoinvestigatetheirpartners'chainsis

innocuous.Althoughrelevant,USandUKlawsare

limitedtoself-declaration.Australia'snewlaw

promisestobedifferent,butit'sveryrecentyet

10 0

Ensurethatinvestorslookatthelong-term

performanceofcompaniesinsteadofshort-

termtargets(shouldnotbeatthecostofthe

longtermapproach).Incentivizebestpractices

andempoweremployees...Keepsustainability

frontofmindforleadership,advocate

for/supporttransparencyregulation(e.g.

California’sSupplyChainsAct)...

10 0

Yes,certificationcouldbeatoolforthat,butsowe

needmuchmoretransparency.Theexcuseof

confidentialityisusedtogivelessinformationto

consumersandwereallydon´tknowifthe

compromiseofthecertificationservices/industryis

withthesocitetyorwiththeirclients.

10 0

Weareheavilyreliantoncertificationsandfor

metheyshowaverynarrowviewofthe

picture.Technology,withtherightpolitical

backing,canplayasignificantroleinmaking

complexsupplychainsmoretransparent,and

companiesmoreaccountable.Currentlyitfeels

liketheseprojectsarealittlegimmickyaslarge

companiesdon'twantthedataexposed

9 0

whatwouldtherequirementsbe?therearemany

initiativesaroundwhichrequireminimum

standards,andsotheiroverallimpactisdebatable.

Theidealwouldbetohaveagloballyagreed

systemthatdifferentindustriesandbusinesses

couldadheretoinaconsistentway- currentlywe

havesomanyreportingframeworksetc.thatthere

isinconsistency

9 0

Designincentivestructureinthefinancial

marketsforlenderstoembedbestsocialand

environmentalpractices.Eg:BNPParibas

lended2BEURtoDanoneincentivizingthemto

performsociallyandenvironmentallybetter.

9 -1

Ifthedevelopmentofthecertifiedstandard

systemdidnotincludeworkers'unionssincewage

standardsespeciallyincountrieswherethesupply

chainresidesareoftenbelowlivingstandards.

SlaveryconditionsalsoexistinAsiancountries,

relativelyunknowntopublicbutallowedby

governments.ThiswasrevealedbytheRanaPlaza

tragedyinBangladesh.

8 -1

Fullytransparentverificationmechanisms,with

realconsequencesforthosecompaniesthatdo

notfullycomplywithreportingrequirements.

8 0

[continuedonnextpage]88

I.2.HIGHLYDETAILEDSUSTAINABILITYREPORTINGComments(continued)

For this concept, respondents were more keen to comment about solutions than barriers, however both proposals have beendone. On one hand, lack of transparency due to confidentiality policy, current lack of concrete requirements for the report aswell as potential involvement of financial institutions in investigation of partners' supply chains seem to be the main barriersfor highly detailed reporting system. On the other hand, ensuring transparency and accountability on every stage ofproduction within the fashion industry as well as analysis on the impact on environment and society are two best valuedsolutions for this concept. Moreover, incentive policy and verification mechanisms, according to respondents, would ensureeffective functioning of the detailed reporting. Eventually, this idea has been pointed out as a barrier and solution - need forclearer and concrete language what is permitted and prohibited would help fostering sustainable fashion sector.

Especiallyworthnoting

Abarriertoachievingthiscouldbe... ! " Asolutionfacilitatingachievingthiscouldbe...

! "

havenoaccesstonewfinancingsthateventually

wouldimprovethetechnologiesintextile

productionandconsequentlyimpactpositivelythe

restorationofthenaturalenvironment.That'swhy

Ithinkthatthisscenariocanimpactworking

conditionsmorethanimpacttherestorationofthe

environment.

3 -5

Ifthepoliticalwillisthere,thiscouldbebrought

intolawrapidly.Itwouldneedtogobeyondthe

FrenchandSwissexamplesandthechallenge

wouldbeextendingtosmallerbrands.Recording

purchasingpractices,wages,etcisrelatively

straightforwardandalreadypartofmany

companyreportsbutreportingonsupplychain

impactisfarmorechallenging.

10 -2

Defineverifiable,credibleandcomparable

standardsforsocialandenvironmentalimpact-

particularlythosealignedwiththe2030SDGs.

Startmeasuringandreportingpubliclyto

stakeholders.

8 -2

possible,withtherightpoliticalwill.Mostlikely

inEuropefirst,andonlyintheU.S.ifwehavea

seachangeinourpoliticalsystemin2020.

8 -3

Thereneedstobeestablishedaclearerlanguage

andunderstandingamonginvestorsaboutwhat

companiescandotogetmoreinvestment.

Investors/shareholdershavesomuchpower

overcreatingamoresustainableapparelsector

andtodevelopawholenewrelationshipwith

largebrands.

4 0

AccordingtoJPMorgan,ESG(environment,

socialandgovernance)investmentsrepresent

USD24trillion(from280trillionofassetsunder

management).Togrowthisflowisimportantto

haveverifiable,credibleandcomparable

metrics.Thisisakeyinputtomeasureand

reporttostakeholders,includinginvestors.

2 0

Developawholenewvaluechainbasedonfixing

andadjustingclothing.3 -4

Especiallyworthnoting

89

J.2.INTRODUCINGRESALE/SECOND-HANDMODELS- Comments

Abarriertoachievingthiscouldbe... ! " Asolutionfacilitatingachievingthiscouldbe...

! "

Notsureonthesocialimpactside..thiscouldgo

eitherway.Ontheenvironmentsidehardtonot

seethisasanoverallhugepoistive..butthe

culturalchangetomakethishappenissingificant..

andiswhatwouldtakeawhiile.

11 -1 betterandmoreconvenienttakebackprograms 12 0

Iseemuchmorevalueinsecondhandthan

recyclingasitcurrentlyis.Wemustencourageit.

Thereareglobalissueslikedumpingtopoorer

countrieswithalltheconsequencesthishas,and

there'sarealconcernaboutretrainingand

repurposingmillionsofgarmentsworkersglobally.

Can'tbesolvedononesidewithoutconsidering

system-levelsolutions

10 0

Thisisnotjustaboutsecond-hand,weneedto

dealwiththehugequantityofunsoldstockin

theindustry.Innovativesolutionswillbeneeded

toturnunsaleablepre-consumerproductsinto

saleableones- bothatfactoryandretaillevel-

coupledwithincreasedconsumerawarenessof

whathappenstounsoldstock

12 0

Thepovertyquestionisatrickyoneasitcouldbe

arguedthatcheapsecondhandclothingbeing

dumpedonsubsaharanAfricaorLatinAmericaisa

benefittomanyfamilieslivinginpovertywhocan't

affordnewclothingbut,longterm,preserving

nationalmanufacturingandbanningsecondhand

clothingimportscouldprovidemoreandbetter

jobslocally

9 -1

We'veseenahugechangeonconsumer

sentimentaroundsecondhandinthepastfive

years,andthere'snoreasonthatwillstop.

Onlinestoresmakefindingwhatyouwantinthe

secondhandversioneasy.Itwillbeahugeboon

totheenvironment-- waymorethanlocal

manufacturing.

10 0

Thiscouldhaveapositiveimpactonthe

environment,howeverwithgrowingpopulations

andagrowingmiddleclassaroundtheworld,will

productionofvirginproductsstillcontinueto

increase?Wewouldneedtoconsiderthelogistics-

itemswouldneedtobeefficientlyprocessedand

repairedforresale,andunsellableitemswould

needtoberecycled

8 0

FromTreehugger:"Secondhandclothingretailer

thredUPhasjustreleaseditsannualfashion

resalereport,andthemarketisbooming.

thredUPreportsthat,overthepastthreeyears,

resalehasgrown21timesfasterthanapparel

retail.Thesecondhandmarket,currentlyworth

$24billion,isexpectedtoreach$51billionin

fiveyears."

9 -1

Wecurrentlyhaveamassiveproblemwith

overproduction,unsoldstock,andlowquality

garmentsthatarenotfitforthesecondhand

market.Weneedtostartbyaddressingthese

issuesofoverproductionandquality,whichwould

thenenableahigherqualitysecondhandmarket.

8 0

Taxescouldincentivethatidea.Wecanhavetop

modelsusingrecycleandusedclothes,inbig

campaigns,combinewithreallyatractiveprices.

8 -1

iftheresale/second-handportionpalesin

comparisontotheotherportionofcompanies'

business,sotheystillchurnout'virgin'goods

becausethedemandpersists.

8 -1

[continuedonnextpage]90

J.2.INTRODUCINGRESALE/SECOND-HANDMODELS Comments(continued)

Respondents often reported an obstacle or even a risk of dumping second hand clothes to poor Sub-Saharian African or LatinAmerican countries, which might in consequence cause not only social but also environmental problem.s (due to large stock ofwaste) Moreover, resale/second-hand clothing require high-quality products to be reusable, for this reason fashion industrywould need improved quality standards, as advised by the last comment in barriers section (to be noted, low score overalldoes not value the adequacy of the comment, it is necessary to take into account also the time of posting). When it comes tosolutions, numerous concrete proposals were given by respondents. For example, the idea of take back programs was themost welcomed amongst all the comments. A few also underlined a need for innovative solutions aimed at decreasing thequantity of unsold stock and turn it into saleable clothes. Whatsoever, an idea of incentives in form of tax reliefs would helpfoster the trend of promoting used clothes by big companies.

Especiallyworthnoting

Abarriertoachievingthiscouldbe... ! " Asolutionfacilitatingachievingthiscouldbe...

! "

Iftherubbishofdevelopedcountriesisnot

exportedtopoorcountries,theideaisnotbad.

Theproblemisthattheexperienceshowsthat

poorcoustrieswillbuygarbagewhatwouldcreate

environmentalproblemsandstealmanufacturing

jobsinthenameofbadqualityclothing.

8 -1

thinkingdifferentlyaboutwhatthismeansin

differentcultures,locations,agegroups,

professions- ratherthanaonesizefitsall,the

ideaofvintage,sharingclothes,re-use- thisisa

hugecreativeopportunity- tofinddistinction

thatisrelevantandappropriateatparticular

scale/placeorarangeofscales.itsabouta

diversesetofmodels

1 0

thehugeculturalbarrierthatrefusessecond-hand

stock,thereforerequiringproductionofdurable

andqualityclothingthatwillendureresale.

8 -1

theneedforworkers'alternativessincetherewill

belessdemandformanufacturingjobs.8 -1

Wewouldneedtoreviewseriouslyquality

standardsaswewouldbeimproveproducts

durability.

3 0

91

K.2.MAJORITYOFCLOTHINGISLOCALLYPRODUCED- Comments

Abarriertoachievingthiscouldbe... ! " Asolutionfacilitatingachievingthiscouldbe...

! "

Thismaybebig..butnotsure..someanalysisshow

thattransfortinlongsuplychainsinsomeindustry

issmallrelativetootherfactors.Worthmore

analysis.

11 -1 ...amassivechangeinculturalbehavior. 10 0

Thisoneisnotalwayssimple.Incarbonfootprint

analysis,itisoftensurprisinghowlittlethe

footprintoftransportoffoodcontributesrelative

tootherfactors.Iwouldsaythatthismaybeworth

ananalysis.alongwithotherfactors.Couldbethat

thisisbig..butmaynotbeasbigasotherleversin

theend.

11 -1

buildingverticallyintegratedlocalindustry,

especiallysincesomeareusedtomaterialsthat

arenotavailableintheirowncountries.The

impacttoworkingconditionscanbeensuredif

unionsareallowedandareexistinginallpartsof

thechain.

9 0

Willeveryone,includingthepoorest,haveaccess

tothistechnology?9 0

Notsurewehaveallthedataandscenario

planningtoassessthisyet.Echocommentson

impactofglobaltransportsVsotherfashion

processes.Therearepositivestoaglobalsupply

chainthatallowsdifferentcountriesto

contributetheirskillsandresources.The

problemistheabusebyrichcountries.

Personalisedlocallymadeclothingisgreatbut

nich

8 -1

Thesewingismainlybasedwherethefinancialand

economicconditionsarefavorableforthe

industries/brands.Ithinkitwouldtakealongtime

tobreakthislogic,butifthishappenandthe

majorityofclothingwouldbelocallyproduced,

imaginetheimpactoncarbonfootprint!Itwould

beahugeimpactontherestorationofthenatural

environment.

8 -1

Reinvestinginexistinginfrastructurecould

enableregionssuchastheUKtorevive

traditionalmanufacturingindustries.

Governmentswouldneedtoinvestin

incentivisationforapprenticeshipsandskills

developmentwhichhavebeendecliningas

youngergenerationsnolongerwishtoworkin

theseindustries.

8 -1

Reshoringornearshoringmanufacturingwould

requirehugeinvestmentintraining,alongside

higherwages,higherenergybills,etc.Evenwith

greaterautomation,therewouldstillneedtobe

millionsofgarmentworkersworkinglocallytothe

majorhubsofconsumption.

8 -2

Encouragingnaturalclothes,withlocalfibersor

reusing,customizingorrecyclingclothesand

fibers,and,sure,showtconsumersallvantages

ofthesepractices

7 -2

Noteveryrawmaterialisavailableinacommunity.

Unlessacommunitydecidestowearonlyonetype

ofclothing,derivedfromjustonerawmaterial,itis

hardtoimaginethattheproblemofsupplychains

willbesolved.

7 -1

reviewingwhatwemeanbylocal- toinclude

localmarketsaroundtheworld- locallyrelevant

styles- localis,bydefinition,differentthingsin

differentplaces.tothinkoflocallyasnetworked

hetterarchiesratherthanhierarchies,co-

operativesetcaswellasthematerialand

productionelementsoflocal.

1 0

[continuedonnextpage]92

K.2.MAJORITYOFCLOTHINGISLOCALLYPRODUCED Comments(continued)

For clothes to be locally produced, one should firstly break the logic of producing only at financial and economic conditions.Moreover, locality does not seem to solve the problem of environmental footprint. What also seems important is that themain barrier of the local production is that not every raw material is available in a specific geographic area. A solution to that,as pointed out by one of the last comments, would be to use sustainable materials sourced both globally and locally andbuilding vertically integrated local industry. Whatsoever, a few underlined that change in cultural behaviour is needed for thisconcept to be achieved as well as a concrete definition what does local exactly means.

Especiallyworthnoting

Abarriertoachievingthiscouldbe... ! " Asolutionfacilitatingachievingthiscouldbe...

! "

Themajorityofrawmaterialscomefromcountries

whicharenotthemainclothingconsumers.If

'locallyproduced'isreferringtothewholesupply

chain,Ican'tseesignificantgrowingand

processingofcotton,forexample,happeningin

Europeanytimesoon.Andsuspectafully

automatedindustryisfurtherawaythanwethink.

7 -2

Thisismoreaboutdevelopingcommunitiesthan

netpositiveenvironmentalimpact.Agoodway

goodbeorganizesmallergroupstoproducein

largerscaleanduniformedstandards.

2 -6

Thatwhenwethinkoflocallyproducedclothing

wearethinkingofclothingjustmadefromlocal

materials.Ifwearetalkingaboutcreatingwork

locallyandusing"sustainable"materialssourced

globallyaswellaslocallythenthismakesmore

sensenow.FibershedcreatedaUSnetworkof

"Producers"thatwecanlearnfrom.

5 0

Transportationhasarelativelylowcarbonimpact

comparedtodyeingandprocessing,sotheimpact

oflocalproductionispotentiallysmall

7 -4

Ijustdon'tseeconsumersembracingplastic

printedclothingandspray-onclothinganytime

soon.MaybeI'mwrong,butthesetechnologiesare

stillquiteawkwardandunattractive.

5 -3

Achievescaleoflocalproducersandalignitwith

performancestandardsoflargerretailers.1 -6

93

L.2.TAXREGULATIONSFORINCREASINGSUSTAINABILITY- Comments

Abarriertoachievingthiscouldbe... ! " Asolutionfacilitatingachievingthiscouldbe...

! "

Theconceptisgood,especiallyifresourcesare

revertedtoworkersandsmallproducers.The

discussionhereinvolvesregulation.Fewcountries

arewillingtodothisindividually,whichwould

requirearticulationviainternationalbodies.That

is,aslowaction.

10 0

Environmentaltaxesandreliefsare

commonplaceinmanycountriesandtargeted

taxesi.epolluterpays,ortaxbreaksfor

renewables,canhelpinspecificareassuchas

climatechange.Corporationtaxneedstobe

increasedacrosstheboardtocoverexternal

costs,togetherwithaclampdownontax

avoidanceandcorruption,andanti-avoidance

policies.

12 0

lackofagreementbetweentheglobal

communitiesaboutwhatthislookslikeandhowto

executethis.

9 -1

Idon'tknowhowtoanswerquestionslikethat...

andothers...arewetalkingaboutarealworld?If

weare,soitisagreatandfuncionalidea.But,

whatleveoftaxes?1or90%?And...inwhich

countries?Richorpoors?Withaweakor

strongerstate?well...intheory,Itisagoodidea.

9 0

Taxregulationwouldbegoodanditcouldbe

designedtoincentivizethosewhomake

differently.Thebarriersaremetricstomakeit

objectively.

8 0

Ifallgovernmentsactontheircommitmentto

theParisAgreement,thenprosperitywillbe

measuredbeyondtheblinkeredviewofGDP.

thustaxregulationswillbeseenasameansto

createprosperityinsocial,environmental,

culturalandeconomicdimensionswithin

countriesaswellasonaglobalscale

9 -1

TheUKgovtrecentlyrejectedrecommendationsto

useatexincentivesystemtocleanupfashion,so

thisisachallenge.Ialsoagreewiththecomment

thatthepeoplelowerdownthesupplychaincould

actuallybearthebruntofthis- ortheconsumer

withraisedprices.Willbusinessesactuallyever

takeahittotheirprofitsforthegreatergood?

8 0

Ifwecanprovideincentivesforcompaniesto

makemoremoney,wecanusesomecritical

thinkingandintroducecreativetaxregulations

targetedatincreasingsustainabilityandgiving

breakstocompaniesmakingmeasurable

change..Ex:sharingnewtechnologiesand

creatingtoolkitsthathelpotherbrandscurb

waste.

5 0

Taxregulationsalongthesupplychaincouldmean

lessmoneyforgarmentworkers,farmersand

otherareasofproductioninthesupplychain.It's

alwaysthebottomofthesupplychainthattakes

thebruntofthesecertificationsandregulations

mostitseems(intermsofwheretaxmoneyneeds

tocomefromtopay).

7 -3

Let'sstartwithacarbonfeeanddividend

scheme,andthenmoveontoother

environmentalareassuchaschemicalusage,

extendedproducerresponsibility,etc.

7 -4

[continuedonnextpage]94

L.2.TAXREGULATIONSFORINCREASINGSUSTAINABILITYComments(continued)

Most of the respondents agreed that lack of agreement between the countries but also lack of power and leverage ofindividual countries might slow down the action. For this reason, legislation through international organisations would beneeded and this venture would take time. Also necessity for objective requirements, rules and definition might pose adifficulty for legislation. This is why, as the first comment pointed out, there is a need that such a potential tax shall also coverexternal costs but also a need for effective preventive mechanisms for tax avoidance and corruption. An interesting proposalwas also given by one of the respondent regarding tax reliefs for companies sharing their new technologies or tools fosteringdecrease in waste.

Especiallyworthnoting

Abarriertoachievingthiscouldbe... ! " Asolutionfacilitatingachievingthiscouldbe...

! "

thelackofpoliticalwillintheUK,USandtosome

extentevenwithinEuropeaswell.InChinaand

India,thereisagreaterawarenessofthelink

betweenenvironmentalandeconomicprosperity,

butbiggersocialchallenges.inAfricancountries,

therearearangeofshorttermchallengesthat

makebothshortandlongtermplanningmore

difficulttorealise

6 -3

Taxationisimportanttostimulateagentsto

internalizetheirexternalitiesandhencecreate

animpacteconomythatconsidersnotonlythe

financialbottomline,butalsosocialand

environmentalnetimpact.Thisagainrequires

standards,metricsthatareverifiable,

comparableandcredible.Taxationisnotenough

assumingStateinefficiencytoenforce

2 0

TaxesarehardinUS..andofcoursechallengingfor

trade.6 -5

asystemicapproachofcustomerawareness

raising,businesscollaborationandtaxation

couldbeveryeffective- theanalogywiththe

tobaccoindustryisaclearexampleofthis- egin

UK

2 -1

95

M.2.WAGESINTHEFASHIONINDUSTRY- Comments

Abarriertoachievingthiscouldbe... ! " Asolutionfacilitatingachievingthiscouldbe...

! "

Thefashionindustry'swholemotivationfor

offshorecontractmanufacturingistochasecheap

prices.Therearestilllotsofdevelopingeconomies

willingtoworkforalowerwage.

10 0

Asolutionmightbeforlargefashionbrandsto

buddyupwiththeirsupplychainandinvestin

makingchangeonepartneratatimeinsteadof

flipfloppingtocountrieslookingforthe

cheapestfit.Aslongasthechaseforcheap

continues,it'salljustmarketingandgreenwash.

Therewon'tbeanystandard.

8 0

Fairerwageswoulddrivemoreresponsible

productionwithaknock-oneffectontheuseof

resources.

Withfairandlivingwagestherealproblemis

secondaryandtertiarysuppliers,subcontracting

etc.Youmighthaveafactorythatiscompliantbut

whenpressurecomesinfrombrandstodeliver

fast&cheaptheywillengagehomeworkers,

subcontractorsetc

8 0

Areportintowagesintheglobalfashion

industrywaslaunchedbywomen’srights

organisationTheCircle.FashionFocus:the

fundamentalrighttoalivingwageexaminesthe

highlyremunerativeFastFashionsectorthrough

alegallens.Itconcludesthatalivingwageisa

fundamentalhumanright,whichallStatesare

obligedtoguarantee.

7 0

Theproblemisthatthefashionindustryhas

profitedfromoverexploitationofoutsourcedwork

inpoorcountriesandregions.Thatis,itwouldbea

radicaltransformationoftheindustryitself.From

this,theshortestwaytoachievethiswouldbevia

industrydecisionofthetransnationalcompanies

7 0

Theassessmentsarethere.Whatwelackis

enforcementbylocalgovernments.Wewould

havetoputanAccord-likesysteminplacein

everyproductioncountry.

6 -3

whenthefashionindustrykeepsdemanding

highestqualityproductsatthelowestpossible

costs,thiswillalwaysbeattheexpenseof

workers.Also,theregionalcostoflivingisnotthe

standardforallcountrieswithin.Governmentsalso

donotefficientlyenforceandmonitoritsown

laborstandardsbecauseofthepremiumin

attractinginvestments.

7 0

Whilstthisaspirationisambitious-itisvitalthat

weworktowardssuchaimsas,whenachieved,

theycreatedeepchange.Weneedtochampion

ambitiousaims,whilstremainingpragmatic.Ido

thinkthatthereisapositiveknockoneffecton

nature,aswhentheunvaluingmodelisbroken,

companiesmaystarttobettervalueallelements

ofagarment

1 0

Thisrequiresallgovernmentsingarmentmaking

countries,soalmostallcountriesaroundthe

world,tosignuptoafairlivingwage.Atatime

whentheracetothebottominsearchofcheaper

wagesshowslittlesignofabatement,theideathat

allgovernmentswillsetarealisticminimumwage,

letaloneafairlivingwage,seemsinconceivable.

6 -1

Itcouldbeagoodideainordertoincreasegains

ofworkers.Idon'tseeanyimpactin

environmentinthisiniciative.Maybeanegative

impact,ifindustriesdiscountintheenvironment

thecostofthisiniciative.

4 -4

[continuedonnextpage]

96

M.2.WAGESINTHEFASHIONINDUSTRYComments(continued)

The most valued comment in the barriers section regards the difficulty to break the willingness of citizens in developingcountries to work for lower wages. Moreover, lack of transparency and accountability within the governments to monitortheir labor standards is another obstacle for fairer wages to become reality. One of the best solution, according torespondents, regards cooperation between fashion brands and their supply chain to change one partner instead of switchingtowards cheap countries. In addition, law enforcement and oversight from the local governments is needed to ensure that fairand decent living wage is ensured.

Especiallyworthnoting

Abarriertoachievingthiscouldbe... ! " Asolutionfacilitatingachievingthiscouldbe...

! "

companiesproducinginlargescaleforgreater

profitsandadvertisingtoproduce"want",instead

ofproducingaccordingto"needs"ofpeople.The

entirechainwillbeforprofitatthemercyof

workers.

5 0

Selfregulation.Stimulatethatgreatbuyers

disclosuretheirvaluechainandcertifyFairLabor

(byusinglivingwageasminimumstandard).

Startengagingconsumersaboutsuchstandard.

0 0

Whilsttherecouldbeanagreementforglobal

livingwages,livingcostsdifferacrosscountries,so

brandscouldstillendupinaraceforthebottom

goingtothecheapestcountriesandputtingtoo

muchpressureontheirworkforce.

4 -2

I'mnotsurehowthestatementofa"Fairand

decentlivingwageinthefashionindustryisa

worldwidestandard"appliesto"Impacton

restorationofthenaturalenvironment?"

4 -5

97

N.2.WORKER-DRIVENINITIATIVES- Comments

Abarriertoachievingthiscouldbe... ! " Asolutionfacilitatingachievingthiscouldbe...

! "

Thisdependsonorganizedworkersconnectedto

globalnetworksofworkers'unions.Many

countriesdonothavefreedomofassociationand

workersarethreatened.Iagreethisdependsofa

lotofsocialandeconomicaldynamicschangings.

9 0

Designacorporategovernancethatconsiders

stakeholdersinshortandlongtermdecision

makingaswellasthegovernancestructure

includesmembersofcommunityandworkers.

Eg:ImpactCommittee.

8 0

whencodesofconductarevoluntarymechanisms

onthepartofcompanies.Amoreeffective

mechanismiscollectivebargainingagreementwith

workers'unions.

9 0

enablingallworkerstherighttojointrade

unionsisastartingpoint.itispositivetohave

internallyledworkerinitiatives,butforsystemic

changeitisimportantthatunionsareinvolved.

8 0

thismayrequiregovernmentbuyintobetruly

effective,whichisnotcurrentlyapossibilityin

manyregions,particularlycountrieswherefast

fashionispredominantlyproduced.Socialmedia

andtechnologycouldhelpgalvaniseworkers,and

blockchainhasbeentrialledforanonymous

employeefeedbacktoreducefraudulent

responsesbybusiness

7 0

Thisisanintegralpartofimprovingworking

conditionsandpoverty,thoughitlikelywould

haveanegligibleeffectontheenvironment

unlesstheworkershappentolivedownstream

fromthefactory.

8 -1

Alotofsystemicchangehascomefromwithin:

workers’rights,women'srightsetc.Movements

mustbelistened&respondedtoatinternational

levelastheglobaleconomymeansthatthey

cannotbesolvedlocally.Socialmediacanhelp

collectivebargainingandexposingwrongdoing.

Butthisisnotpossibleinallcountriessocannot

assumeequalfooting

6 -3

thelackofawarenessonthepartofmanythat

humanrightscodesdependoncompanybuy-in

andnotbindingascollectivebargaining

agreementsare.

7 -1

Iput)..intimehere.butwhatIwantedtoputis

NAorDonotknow.Itisnotcleartomehow

strongorlargetheunionistobeaforceonthis

one.

6 -3

Asoutlinedinmanycomments- thereisaneed

tocreatechangeonvariouslevels

simultaneously- fromlegislationregarding

collectivebargainingandarangeofsocialand

environmentalprotections,throughto

recognisingthevitalcontributionthatsmall,

locationspecificgroupsofpeoplecanachievein

acommunity.Worker-basedactionisavitalpart

2 0

[continuedonnextpage]

98

N.2.WORKER-DRIVENINITIATIVESComments(continued)

Majority of participants agree that main barriers regard system and legislation. Respondents point out lack of freedom ofassociation and not abiding workers rights, especially in regions where most of the fast fashion is produced. Governmentshave to be involved for the worker driven initiatives to be effective. One of the main solution was to create corporategovernance on both short and long term decision making. Other solutions proposed consist in enabling workers to join tradeunions, which would in consequence foster systemic change. A few participants also outlined an idea to use social media as atool for boosting workers' collective bargaining and leverage.

Especiallyworthnoting

Abarriertoachievingthiscouldbe... ! " Asolutionfacilitatingachievingthiscouldbe...

! "

Thewaveofconservativepopulistgovernment

mayimplementseveralderegulationswhilewe

needtostrengtheninstitutionsandchangethe

rulesofthegametoraisethebarofcompanies

accountabilityandtransparency.

1 0

99

RESULTSMATRIX1:ImpactonrestorationofthenaturalenvironmentvsETM (earliesttimetomainstream)

Concept

Earliestpossibletimeforthis

concepttoreachmainstream

Impactonrestorationof

thenaturalenvironment

A Automationrevolution 9.9 0.8

B CircularEconomy 12.2 2.8

C Clothingasaservice 12.4 2.8

D Consumerlevelsustainabilityindex 9.5 2.1

E Extendedproducerresponsibility 9.7 3.1

F Fibresandprocessinginnovations 8.3 2.9

G Globalawareness 5.0 2.4

H Highconcentration 8.9 2.6

I Highlydetailedsustainabilityreporting 8.6 1.8

J Introducingresale/second-handmodels 9.1 2.6

K Majorityofclothingislocallyproduced 16.2 1.5

L Taxregulationsforincreasingsustainability 9.9 2.6

M Wagesinthefashionindustry 12.4 0.9

N Worker-DrivenInitiatives 8.8 0.4

A cluster of the three following concepts: Worker-driven initiatives, automation revolution and wages in the fashion industry seem to have the leastimpact on the restoration of the natural environment according to the respondents. It might be due to the fact that these innovations are mostly relatedto workforce and labour standards which result in more directly in socioeconomic outputs and indirectly - therefore with less significance - onenvironment. Concepts related to sustainable production and recycling of clothing, aimed at creating net positive impact were valuated to be the mostsignificant for the restoration of the environment such as fibers and processing innovations, extended producers responsibility, circular economy andclothing as a service. Fibers and processing innovations are considered as the most important for the restoration of the environment. It could be due tothe fact that this is the sole concept in the study based on new technologies aimed at efficient production, processing and low-energy and low-waterrecycling of clothing. Eventually, two outliers - G and K - are observable. It seems that global awareness strategy is judged as having a significant impactand relatively short time to be achieved. What is worth noting, in the comment section global awareness was given more solutions than barriers to beachieved. Potential explanation is that mental transformation and environmental education of the society might be ‘easier’ than transformation of thewhole industrial sector, i.e. to produce locally, as it requires not only changes in legislation but also behavioural culture of big companies.

1

2

Especiallyworthnoting

3

100

Concept

Earliestpossibletimeforthis

concepttoreachmainstream

Impactonworkingconditionsand

poverty

A Automationrevolution 9.9 -0.9

B CircularEconomy 12.2 1.6

C Clothingasaservice 12.4 0.7

D Consumerlevelsustainabilityindex 9.5 1.9

E Extendedproducerresponsibility 9.7 1.3

F Fibresandprocessinginnovations 8.3 0.9

G Globalawareness 5.0 2.3

H Highconcentration 8.9 2.3

I Highlydetailedsustainabilityreporting 8.6 1.9

J Introducingresale/second-handmodels 9.1 0.6

K Majorityofclothingislocallyproduced 16.2 0.6

L Taxregulationsforincreasingsustainability 9.9 1.9

M Wagesinthefashionindustry 12.4 3.5

N Worker-DrivenInitiatives 8.8 2.1

1 2

RESULTSMATRIX2:ImpactonworkingconditionsandpovertyvsETM (earliesttimetomainstream)

Especiallyworthnoting

Overall, almost all the concepts have been judged as having positive impact on working conditions and poverty except automation revolution. As seen inthe comments section, respondents fear that automation would result in potential layoffs and in consequence - lack of employment (e.g.due to roboticsubstitutes for human work). On the other hand, wages in the fashion industry were judged as being the most significant for working conditions andpoverty. Fair and decent living wage is valued as a fundamental human and worker’s right and a necessity for sustainable fashion industry by respondents.However, time to achieve this concept is relatively long, as it requires systemic changes in - for majority - developing countries, where fast fashion isbased and usually workers’ rights not abided. Moreover, two clusters are observable, having relatively same impact on the measure and being achievableaccordingly in c. 9 and 12 years. Those are e.g. sustainability reporting, high concentration and sustainability index. Second cluster, including concepts Band C is relatively important - having an average impact on the measure and being achievable in only 12 years. Circular economy and clothing as a servicewere judged more significant for the previous measure than for working conditions. What is interesting is that, as in the case of the restoration of thenatural environment, global awareness - although not having the biggest impact, is seen as the fastest achievable concept. Therefore, participants judgethe potential of raising awareness as an important and rapid tool for cognitive improvements within the society, which might indirectly foster otherconcepts aiming at improving sustainability within the fashion sector.

101

Concept

Earliestpossibletimeforthis

concepttoreachmainstreamAverageimpact

A Automationrevolution 9.9 -0.1

B CircularEconomy 12.2 2.2

C Clothingasaservice 12.4 1.8

D Consumerlevelsustainabilityindex 9.5 2.0

E Extendedproducerresponsibility 9.7 2.2

F Fibresandprocessinginnovations 8.3 1.9

G Globalawareness 5.0 2.3

H Highconcentration 8.9 2.4

I Highlydetailedsustainabilityreporting 8.6 1.8

J Introducingresale/second-handmodels 9.1 1.6

K Majorityofclothingislocallyproduced 16.2 1.1

L Taxregulationsforincreasingsustainability 9.9 2.3

M Wagesinthefashionindustry 12.4 2.2

N Worker-DrivenInitiatives 8.8 1.2

1 2

RESULTSMATRIX3:AverageImpact(onworkingconditionsandpoverty&restorationofthenaturalenvironment)vsETM(earliesttimetomainstream)

In the average impact matrix, the two clusters that emerged are very similar to the ones in the working conditions and poverty. There arealso three outliers - majority of clothing locally produced, automation revolution and global awareness. As in the case of the previousmeasure, automation revolution is judged as having a negative impact, in opposition to the rest of the concepts. It was lowly evaluated inits impact on the environment and highly negatively on working conditions and poverty. Two other outliers - global awareness seen asbeing the fastest achievable idea, and local production of clothing the slowest one are also similar to the two previous graphs.Whatsoever, regarding the ETM, in average, is being equivalent to circa 9 years for the most concentrated cluster in the middle of thechart. Nevertheless, it is worth noting that - as in the case of the first data analysis - in the ETM, standard deviation was relatively high,therefore there is a strong dispersion amongst respondents regarding the achievable time. For this reason, ETM shall be actually treated inperspective. Eventually, clothing as a service, sustainability index and fair wages are organised around the second visible cluster, which isjudged to be achievable in average in around 12 years and having comparatively positive impact.

Especiallyworthnoting

102

RESULTSBREAKDOWNPERPROFESSIONALBACKGROUNDOFTHEEXPERTS

Impactonrestorationofthenaturalenvironmentquestion_name profession AVERAGEof

valueMEDIANofvalue

STDEVofvalue

COUNTAofvalue

Automationrevolution Academic 0.0 0.0 0.82 4

Activist/Campaigner 0.8 1.0 1.26 4

Foundation/Non-Profit 1.0 1.0 1

IndustryJournalist 1.0 1.0 0.00 2

PolicyandGovernance 1.0 1.0 0.00 2

SustainableFashionStart-up 1.3 1.5 0.82 6

CircularEconomy Academic 2.8 3.0 1.50 4

Activist/Campaigner 2.8 3.0 0.50 4

Foundation/Non-Profit 3.0 3.0 1

IndustryJournalist 2.5 2.5 0.71 2

PolicyandGovernance 3.0 3.0 1

SustainableFashionStart-up 2.8 2.5 0.98 6

Clothingasaservice Academic 2.5 2.5 0.58 4

Activist/Campaigner 3.0 3.0 0.82 4

Foundation/Non-Profit 4.0 4.0 1

IndustryJournalist 2.5 2.5 0.71 2

PolicyandGovernance 3.0 3.0 0.00 2

SustainableFashionStart-up 2.8 3.0 0.75 6

Consumerlevelsustainabilityindex Academic 2.0 2.0 0.82 4

Activist/Campaigner 2.3 2.0 0.50 4

Foundation/Non-Profit 2.0 2.0 1

IndustryJournalist 0.5 0.5 2.12 2

PolicyandGovernance 3.0 3.0 1.41 2

SustainableFashionStart-up 2.3 2.0 1.51 6

Extendedproducerresponsibility Academic 3.0 3.0 0.00 4

Activist/Campaigner 3.0 3.0 0.00 4

Foundation/Non-Profit 4.0 4.0 1

IndustryJournalist 3.0 3.0 0.00 2

PolicyandGovernance 3.0 3.0 0.00 2

SustainableFashionStart-up 3.0 3.0 0.89 6

Fibresandprocessinginnovations Academic 3.0 3.0 0.82 4

Activist/Campaigner 2.5 3.0 1.00 4

Foundation/Non-Profit 3.0 3.0 1

IndustryJournalist 2.5 2.5 0.71 2

PolicyandGovernance 3.0 3.0 1

SustainableFashionStart-up 3.3 3.0 0.52 6

Globalawareness Academic 2.5 2.5 1.29 4

Activist/Campaigner 2.5 2.5 0.58 4

Foundation/Non-Profit 3.0 3.0 1

IndustryJournalist 0.5 0.5 2.12 2

PolicyandGovernance 1.0 1.0 1

SustainableFashionStart-up 3.0 3.0 0.89 6103

RESULTSBREAKDOWNPERPROFESSIONALBACKGROUNDOFTHEEXPERTS

Impactonrestorationofthenaturalenvironment(cont.)

question_name profession AVERAGEofvalue

MEDIANofvalue

STDEVofvalue

COUNTAofvalue

Highconcentration Academic 3.0 3.0 1.15 4

Activist/Campaigner 2.8 3.0 0.50 4

Foundation/Non-Profit 3.0 3.0 1

IndustryJournalist 0.5 0.5 2.12 2

PolicyandGovernance 2.0 2.0 1

SustainableFashionStart-up 2.8 3.0 0.75 6

Highlydetailedsustainabilityreporting Academic 1.8 1.5 0.96 4

Activist/Campaigner 1.8 2.0 0.50 4

Foundation/Non-Profit 3.0 3.0 1

IndustryJournalist 1.5 1.5 0.71 2

PolicyandGovernance -1.0 -1.0 1.41 2

SustainableFashionStart-up 2.7 2.5 1.21 6

Introducingresale/second-handmodels Academic 3.0 3.0 0.00 4

Activist/Campaigner 2.5 2.5 0.58 4

Foundation/Non-Profit 3.0 3.0 1

IndustryJournalist 2.5 2.5 0.71 2

PolicyandGovernance 2.0 2.0 1

SustainableFashionStart-up 2.3 3.0 1.21 6

Majorityofclothingislocallyproduced Academic 1.5 1.5 0.58 4

Activist/Campaigner 1.5 1.5 0.58 4

Foundation/Non-Profit 1.0 1.0 1

IndustryJournalist 0.5 0.5 0.71 2

PolicyandGovernance 3.5 3.5 0.71 2

SustainableFashionStart-up 1.2 1.0 0.75 6

Taxregulationsforincreasingsustainability

Academic 2.5 2.5 0.58 4

Activist/Campaigner 1.8 2.0 0.50 4

Foundation/Non-Profit 3.0 3.0 1

IndustryJournalist 2.5 2.5 0.71 2

PolicyandGovernance 3.0 3.0 1

SustainableFashionStart-up 3.2 3.0 0.75 6

Wagesinthefashionindustry Academic 0.8 1.0 0.50 4

Activist/Campaigner 0.8 1.0 0.50 4

Foundation/Non-Profit 1.0 1.0 1

IndustryJournalist 1.0 1.0 0.00 2

PolicyandGovernance 1.0 1.0 0.00 2

SustainableFashionStart-up 1.2 1.0 1.64 5

Worker-DrivenInitiatives Academic 0.8 1.0 0.50 4

Activist/Campaigner 0.2 1.0 1.30 5

Foundation/Non-Profit 1.0 1.0 1

IndustryJournalist 0.5 0.5 0.71 2

PolicyandGovernance 1.0 1.0 1

SustainableFashionStart-up 0.0 0.0 0.71 5104

RESULTSBREAKDOWNPERPROFESSIONALBACKGROUNDOFTHEEXPERTS

Impactonworkingconditionsandpoverty

question_name professionAVERAGEofvalue

MEDIANofvalue

STDEVofvalue

COUNTAofvalue

Automationrevolution Academic -0.5 -0.50 0.58 4

Activist/Campaigner -1.0 -1.00 1.63 4

Foundation/Non-Profit -1.0 -1.00 1

IndustryJournalist -0.5 -0.50 0.71 2

PolicyandGovernance -1.0 -1.00 0.00 2

SustainableFashionStart-up -1.3 -1.50 0.82 6

CircularEconomy Academic 1.3 1.00 1.50 4

Activist/Campaigner 1.5 1.00 1.00 4

Foundation/Non-Profit 3.0 3.00 1

IndustryJournalist 1.5 1.50 0.71 2

PolicyandGovernance 1.0 1.00 1

SustainableFashionStart-up 1.8 1.50 1.47 6

Clothingasaservice Academic 0.5 0.50 0.58 4

Activist/Campaigner 1.0 0.50 1.41 4

Foundation/Non-Profit -1.0 -1.00 1

IndustryJournalist 1.0 1.00 0.00 2

PolicyandGovernance 0.5 0.50 0.71 2

SustainableFashionStart-up 0.8 1.00 1.17 6

Consumerlevelsustainabilityindex Academic 1.5 1.00 1.00 4

Activist/Campaigner 1.2 1.00 1.48 5

Foundation/Non-Profit 2.0 2.00 1

IndustryJournalist 1.0 1.00 1.41 2

PolicyandGovernance 3.0 3.00 1.41 2

SustainableFashionStart-up 2.5 2.50 1.52 6

Extendedproducerresponsibility Academic 1.3 1.50 0.96 4

Activist/Campaigner 0.5 0.50 0.58 4

Foundation/Non-Profit 1.0 1.00 1

IndustryJournalist 1.5 1.50 0.71 2

PolicyandGovernance 0.5 0.50 0.71 2

SustainableFashionStart-up 2.2 2.00 1.60 6

Fibresandprocessinginnovations Academic 0.8 0.50 0.96 4

Activist/Campaigner 0.5 0.50 0.58 4

Foundation/Non-Profit 1.0 1.00 1

IndustryJournalist 1.0 1.00 0.00 2

PolicyandGovernance -1.0 -1.00 1

SustainableFashionStart-up 1.6 2.00 1.67 5

Globalawareness Academic 2.5 3.00 1.00 4

Activist/Campaigner 1.8 2.00 0.50 4

Foundation/Non-Profit 2.0 2.00 1

IndustryJournalist 1.5 1.50 0.71 2

PolicyandGovernance 2.0 2.00 1

SustainableFashionStart-up 2.8 2.50 0.98 6105

RESULTSBREAKDOWNPERPROFESSIONALBACKGROUNDOFTHEEXPERTS

Impactonworkingconditionsandpoverty(cont.)

question_name professionAVERAGEofvalue

MEDIANofvalue

STDEVofvalue

COUNTAofvalue

Highconcentration Academic 2.8 2.50 0.96 4

Activist/Campaigner 2.0 2.00 0.82 4

Foundation/Non-Profit 3.0 3.00 1

IndustryJournalist 0.5 0.50 2.12 2

PolicyandGovernance 2.0 2.00 1

SustainableFashionStart-up 2.7 2.50 0.82 6

Highlydetailedsustainabilityreporting Academic 1.8 2.00 0.50 4

Activist/Campaigner 1.0 1.00 1.22 5

Foundation/Non-Profit 3.0 3.00 1

IndustryJournalist 2.0 2.00 1.41 2

PolicyandGovernance 0.0 0.00 2.83 2

SustainableFashionStart-up 3.0 3.00 1.10 6

Introducingresale/second-handmodels Academic 0.3 0.50 0.96 4

Activist/Campaigner 0.5 1.00 1.00 4

Foundation/Non-Profit 1.0 1.00 1

IndustryJournalist 0.5 0.50 0.71 2

PolicyandGovernance 1.0 1.00 1

SustainableFashionStart-up 0.8 1.00 1.33 6

Majorityofclothingislocallyproduced Academic 0.8 0.50 0.96 4

Activist/Campaigner 1.3 1.00 0.50 4

Foundation/Non-Profit -1.0 -1.00 1

IndustryJournalist -0.5 -0.50 0.71 2

PolicyandGovernance 0.5 0.50 2.12 2

SustainableFashionStart-up 0.8 1.50 2.48 6

Taxregulationsforincreasingsustainability

Academic 1.5 1.50 0.58 4

Activist/Campaigner 1.3 1.50 0.96 4

Foundation/Non-Profit 1.0 1.00 1

IndustryJournalist 2.0 2.00 1.41 2

PolicyandGovernance 2.0 2.00 1

SustainableFashionStart-up 2.7 2.50 1.21 6

Wagesinthefashionindustry Academic 3.5 3.50 0.58 4

Activist/Campaigner 3.5 3.50 0.58 4

Foundation/Non-Profit 4.0 4.00 1

IndustryJournalist 3.5 3.50 0.71 2

PolicyandGovernance 4.0 4.00 0.00 2

SustainableFashionStart-up 3.3 4.00 1.63 6

Worker-DrivenInitiatives Academic 2.3 2.50 0.96 4

Activist/Campaigner 2.0 3.00 1.41 5

Foundation/Non-Profit 4.0 4.00 1

IndustryJournalist 1.5 1.50 0.71 2

PolicyandGovernance 2.0 2.00 1

SustainableFashionStart-up 1.8 2.00 1.47 6106

RESULTSBREAKDOWNPERPROFESSIONALBACKGROUNDOFTHEEXPERTS

ETM- earliestpossibletimeforthisconcepttoreachmainstreaminyears

question_name professionAVERAGEofvalue

MEDIANofvalue

STDEVofvalue

COUNTAofvalue

Automationrevolution Academic 8.3 10.00 3.50 4

Activist/Campaigner 12.3 10.50 5.44 4

Foundation/Non-Profit 12.0 12.00 1

IndustryJournalist 10.0 10.0 0.00 2

PolicyandGovernance 11.5 11.5 4.95 2

SustainableFashionStart-up 8.7 10.0 4.97 6

CircularEconomy Academic 13.5 12.0 4.73 4

Activist/Campaigner 14.0 12.5 8.21 4

Foundation/Non-Profit 18.0 18.0 1

IndustryJournalist 12.5 12.5 3.54 2

PolicyandGovernance 15.0 15.0 1

SustainableFashionStart-up 8.7 10.0 2.16 6

Clothingasaservice Academic 9.3 10.0 5.38 4

Activist/Campaigner 13.3 12.5 5.38 4

Foundation/Non-Profit 20.0 20.0 1

IndustryJournalist 16.5 16.5 12.02 2

PolicyandGovernance 16.5 16.5 12.02 2

SustainableFashionStart-up 9.8 8.5 4.31 6

Consumerlevelsustainabilityindex Academic 8.3 5.5 8.02 4

Activist/Campaigner 13.0 10.0 6.71 5

Foundation/Non-Profit 10.0 10.0 1

IndustryJournalist 6.5 6.5 4.95 2

PolicyandGovernance 9.0 9.0 1.41 2

SustainableFashionStart-up 8.3 7.5 4.08 6

Extendedproducerresponsibility Academic 9.0 8.5 4.69 4

Activist/Campaigner 12.5 9.5 8.50 4

Foundation/Non-Profit 7.0 7.0 1

IndustryJournalist 10.0 10.0 0.00 2

PolicyandGovernance 13.5 13.5 2.12 2

SustainableFashionStart-up 7.3 9.5 4.08 6

Fibresandprocessinginnovations Academic 8.0 9.0 4.32 4

Activist/Campaigner 8.3 8.0 1.26 4

Foundation/Non-Profit 8.0 8.0 1

IndustryJournalist 8.5 8.5 2.12 2

PolicyandGovernance 7.0 7.0 1

SustainableFashionStart-up 8.7 8.5 5.89 6

Globalawareness Academic 4.3 4.0 1.50 4

Activist/Campaigner 7.3 6.0 3.30 4

Foundation/Non-Profit 5.0 5.0 1

IndustryJournalist 6.5 6.5 0.71 2

PolicyandGovernance 6.0 6.0 1

SustainableFashionStart-up 3.3 4.0 2.07 6107

RESULTSBREAKDOWNPERPROFESSIONALBACKGROUNDOFTHEEXPERTS

ETM- earliestpossibletimeforthisconcepttoreachmainstreaminyears

question_name professionAVERAGEofvalue

MEDIANofvalue

STDEVofvalue

COUNTAofvalue

Highconcentration Academic 7.0 6.5 2.16 4

Activist/Campaigner 13.8 14.0 7.23 4

Foundation/Non-Profit 11.0 11.0 1

IndustryJournalist 12.5 12.5 3.54 2

PolicyandGovernance 5.0 5.0 1

SustainableFashionStart-up 6.0 6.0 3.85 6

Highlydetailedsustainabilityreporting Academic 7.3 7.0 2.06 4

Activist/Campaigner 11.6 10.0 5.50 5

Foundation/Non-Profit 8.0 8.0 1

IndustryJournalist 7.5 7.5 0.71 2

PolicyandGovernance 6.5 6.5 2.12 2

SustainableFashionStart-up 8.0 7.5 1.67 6

Introducingresale/second-handmodels Academic 9.3 10.0 5.62 4

Activist/Campaigner 13.8 12.5 4.79 4

Foundation/Non-Profit 11.0 11.0 1

IndustryJournalist 6.5 6.5 2.12 2

PolicyandGovernance 5.0 5.0 1

SustainableFashionStart-up 7.0 8.5 4.00 6

Majorityofclothingislocallyproduced Academic 13.3 15.0 3.50 4

Activist/Campaigner 17.5 17.5 6.45 4

Foundation/Non-Profit 20.0 20.0 1

IndustryJournalist 17.5 17.5 3.54 2

PolicyandGovernance 12.5 12.5 3.54 2

SustainableFashionStart-up 17.5 17.5 5.24 6

Taxregulationsforincreasingsustainability

Academic 8.5 7.0 4.51 4

Activist/Campaigner 12.8 10.0 8.54 4

Foundation/Non-Profit 4.0 4.0 1

IndustryJournalist 9.0 9.0 1.41 2

PolicyandGovernance 10.0 10.0 1

SustainableFashionStart-up 10.3 7.5 7.37 6

Wagesinthefashionindustry Academic 10.3 11.5 3.77 4

Activist/Campaigner 16.3 15.0 6.29 4

Foundation/Non-Profit 25.0 25.0 1

IndustryJournalist 11.5 11.5 2.12 2

PolicyandGovernance 13.5 13.5 2.12 2

SustainableFashionStart-up 9.0 10.0 4.90 6

Worker-DrivenInitiatives Academic 6.3 7.5 4.50 4

Activist/Campaigner 13.2 10.0 7.19 5

Foundation/Non-Profit 10.0 10.0 1

IndustryJournalist 10.0 10.0 0.00 2

PolicyandGovernance 10.0 10.0 1

SustainableFashionStart-up 6.2 6.0 3.76 6108