The Foodie Magazine - December 2013

INSIDEWilliam Wongso - The Reluctant Master

Auroz, The Finer ThingsMayas Musings

Brilliant Home Food BusinessesVindex Tengker, The Family Man

A Taste of Home

P U B L I S H E R S N OT E

A Foodie Story

2 | www. thefoodiemag.com

Welcome to The Foodie Magazine.When I was a kid, I have always been a picky eater. But I have

always enjoyed my moms home cooked meals. I didnt know if I was a strange kid but my favorite book in our bookshelf was my moms cookbook and my favorite TV show was this classic called Wok with Yan.

Fast forward to the days that I discovered the finer things. I was able to afford to eat refined cuisines and then such revelations of flavors led me to find a passion for cooking. TV shows like Top Chef and blogs like Smitten Kitchen gave me such a desire to find like-minded people and create this magazine.

We started with an editorial principle that we want to create something that WE would read ourselves. To represent not just the food and the establishments that it comes from, but the individuals behind them.

I met a cook in the side of the road in Himachal Pradesh in India in 2003, he was preparing some papadam and curry, I dont remember what I said to him but I remember his parting words, Food can unify the world, the fact that you are willing to eat my food tells me that you are willing to accept me as a person.

The politicians and great thinkers might not unify the world, but maybe just maybe we could.

RICHMOND BLANDO

PT. NUSA BINTANG LESTARIJl. Gunawarman no. 16 Kebayoran Baru

South Jakarta IndonesiaTel: +62 21 722 9502

www.boldprintspublishing.com

Publisher

Editor-at-Large

Art Director

Editor

Photographer

Contributors

Administration

Distribution

Richmond Blando

Jed V. Doble

Juke Bachtiar

Rafael Reyes

Dennie Benedict

Himawan Sutanto

Rian Farisa

Aki

Melanie Tanusetiawan

Ellyna Tjohnardi

Daniel Kaurranny

Boedy Astuti

Mukti Pelupessy

Photograph by HIMAWAN SUTANTO


E DITO R S N OT E

A Taste of HomeI would want to believe that my passion for food was ignited

at home. Growing up, I was well fed. I simply loved my Moms home cooking. We also ate out a lot, my parents would always take us to new restaurants every Sunday after church, and I think that helped me become more adventurous with food. If I am not mistaken, I was wielding chopsticks to eat at Japanese restaurants at the age of 3. Even as I discovered new dishes and honed my palate, Moms home cooking always still hit the spot. For many of us, some of our best food memories were made at home. Hence our choice for our first issues theme. In this issue, we celebrate home cooking, the memories, successes, camaraderie and emotions.

We not only want you to be inspired by our articles, we also want you to try out the recipes that we share. We encourage you to cook at home, some recipes are harder than others, but we are sure, given some motivation, friends and family would gladly volunteer to be your guinea pigs. In the end, it is still free food, right? So give it a shot!

And as Christmas approaches, we would be remiss if we do not share with you some of our favorites to brighten up your celebrations as food and drink are always an integral part of any festivity.

We hope your Holidays are bright and full of fun! Dont forget that as we gather together, the meals we partake of serve as colorful backdrop for rekindling friendships, merry-making with loved ones and creating new memories.

Happy Holidays and Happy Eating!

JED V. DOBLEEditor at Large


CO N T R I B U TO R S

HIMAWAN SUTANTOPhotographer

Himawan did portraiture for editorial, advertising and design clients for many years and also had a stint doing commercial photography. His love for food and travel brought him naturally to turn his lens on food and lifestyle which he thoroughly enjoys. He has recently been traveling to take photos for a global hotel chain. When not away shooting photos he tries to spend as much time with his son.

RIAN FARISAWriter

Once a foodie, always a foodie. Rian started his popular food blog gastronomy-aficionado.com in 2009. He has since become a culinary contributor for lifestyle and inflight magazines and newspapers. His job ranges from having intriguing conversations with celebrity chefs to memorizing the French names of Michelin-starred dishes he encounters. But at the end of the day he enjoys his scouring the city for good soul food with his beloved wife.

AKHMAD BAIHAKI (AKI) Photographer

Entusiastic and dedicated Aki has been a proffesional photographer for over 10 years now. Originally from Mojokerto, East Java, in his spare time, he loves to travel, watch and play his favorite sports and listen to music.

MELANIE TANUSETIAWAN Photographer

Melanie graduated from Melbournes RMIT with a Bachelor of Arts in Photography and is well known for her vivid dreamlike imagination. Her love for simple living, food and people is reflected through her lifestyle work. She has also been actively involved in exhibitions and has won various awards. www.studio-melt.com

ELLYNA TJOHNARDIWriter

Ellyna is knee-deep in a love- hate relationship with food (like most girls are), she started my food blog culinarybonanza.com more than 2 years ago. As an acute sweet tooth, she has no difficulty eating dessert as the main course. Despite being Asian, she believes that she was born with a Westerners palate because of inexplicable affinity for bread, wheat and cheese instead of rice and noodles.

DANIEL KAURRANNYWriter

A professionally trained chef and now a barista cum coffee consultant, food has always been Daniels muse. When he travels, he prefers to visit wet markets and museums and taste the local street food. He is an ardent photographer but admits that he still struggles to get rid of his tremors while holding the camera and taking pictures.

THE GUEST

LIST


TA B L E O F CO N T E N T S

Things That Make You Go Yum10 The Most Important Meal

The Foodies List12 Must Trys14 Family Friendly Restaurants16 Yummy Treats18 Stocking Stuffers

Cover Feature: A Taste Of Home20 Home-style Christmas Dinner26 Brilliant Home Businesses 32 Christmas Memories34 Do Try This At Home

Confessions of A Foodie36 Thai Trails

The Foodie magazinevolume 0, Issue 00

TA B L E O F CO N T E N T S

www. thefoodiemag.com | 9

Went There Ate That39 Finding Home42 Crash Course in Northern Philippine Cuisine

Tried and Tipsied44 Bring On The Bubbles46 Usher In The Christmas Spirit

The Finer Things48 Alluring Auroz

Culture50 Sushi Etiquette

Taking It To The Streets52 Nasi Goreng Gila Sabang

Iconic54 Sate Khas Senayan

Its A Foodies Life56 The Chef Is A Family Man

Mayas Musings60 A Time To Rise

Tried and Tested64 Festive Christmas Turkey

Stuff of Legends68 William Wongso The Reluctant Master

Pantry 10172 Christmas Herbs and Spices

What Chef Eats74 Roadside Wonder

T H I N G S T H AT M A K E YO U G O Y U M


@aialahernando @iselaurelia

@elvinafebriani

@chrstinalee @Elleyamada

@cindysunogo

@captainruby

@christianrijanto @catwomanizer

@awie

@Andramatin

@arieparikesit

Things That Make You Go Yum is monthly column featuring our choices of the best food photos on Instagram. If you think you have a great photo worth sharing with us, tag it with #TTMYGY and @TheFoodieMag

by DANIEL KAURRANNY

T H I N G S T H AT M A K E YO U G O Y U M


@sj _ knight

@varatt _ roastbkk

@Kessara

@koultoura

@Ladyironchef

@leesamantha

@melbudiman

@nvicl

@raline _ shah @sakura _ sae

@tridharmawan @talitasetyadi

This month, we feature breakfast. They say that breakfast is the most important meal of the day, so we scoured Instagram to find the most beautiful and hearty breakfast photos. Now next time, dont skip your breakfast!

F O O DI E L I S T S

Anew restaurant is often met with scrutiny in the first year. Skeptics wait in doubt and optimists readily claim it as their new favorite restaurants. For me, there are two important factors, enjoyment and the consistency of that enjoyment. In the several times that I have dined there, I have never been disappointed.

The ambience is homey and the staff is accommodating, knowledgeable and eager to help. The cocktails are generous and not diluted which explains the price I suppose.

I ordered the Wild Duck the first time I went there, the Bouillabaisse on my second visit, they were very flavorful but in almost every visit Ive had with friends, they have ordered the mussels and ate with such gusto. Which led me to order that dish the last time I visited. I then understood my friends giddiness with this dish.

The mussels are flown from Brittany, it was silky and creamy and like the Oreo slogan, you cant eat just one. It instantly became part of my I would come back for category.

01. Le Quartier

12 | www. thefoodiemag.com LE QUARTIER | Jalan Gunawarman no. 34 - Jakarta | +62 21 7278 8001www.lequartier.co.id | Twitter: @lequartierJKT


and flavorful. Other pork dishes on the menu include a smoked pork chop, meatloaf and cured ham. For the pork lovers out there, this place should be your next dining destination. Their wide selection of sausages is also worth talk about. They have Wiener Wrstchen and Nuremberger sausages to name a few. The Paulaner Platter gives you a selection of all the favorites plus a portion of mashed potatoes and sauerkraut. To finish off the meal, try their Emperors Pancakes, a lightly caramelized pancake with a sweet taste and fluffy texture, known as the personal favorite of Kaiser Franz Joseph of Austria.

Former patrons and new recruits will definitely enjoy the reopened Paulaner, expect an upturn in happily drunk and full bellied customers around Grand Indonesia.

After a 10-month hiatus, Jakartas much-loved beer house is back. Paulaner Brauhaus reopened at a new location within Grand Indonesia mall last month. Once again, beer crazed Jakartans have reason to flock to the famous outlet for their freshly brewed beer and in our opinion, some of the best German food in the city.

Being the only beer house with its own microbrewery in Indonesia, Paulaner assures that every pint served is fresh. Whether you opt for the golden Helles with its clean texture and refreshing taste or the darker, heavier and caramel-flavored Dunkel, you are bound to have more than one glass.

Another reason to come to Paulaner is the extensive list of German food on offer. Top on our list is their golden pork knuckles. The crackling is amazingly crispy and the meat, tender

02. Paulaner Brauhaus is back

PAULANER BRAUHAUS | Hotel Indonesia Kempinski, Jalan M.H. Thamrin no. 1, Jakarta |www.paulaner-brauhaus.com/jakarta | Twitter: @PaulanerJakarta



One of the highlights of the Resorts transformation in recent months is the opening their new dining concept Prego. Their monthly themed Sunday Prego Family Brunch features the islands largest buffet of authentic Italian cuisine. For the kiddies, there is a dedicated buffet which also dispenses popcorn and fairy floss. The children can make use of the large outdoor playground and indoor events space with PS3 and other interesting activities. This months theme, Santa and his Elves sees the kids creating their own Christmas cake and decorating the Christmas tree. With the little monsters well-entertained, mommy and daddy can enjoy their own brunch which includes generous portions of classic pasta, wood-fire oven pizzas and other regional specialties.

03. Prego at the Westin Nusa Dua

WESTIN NUSA DUA BALI | Kawasan Pariwisata Nusa Dua, BTDC Lot N-3 Bali | +62 361 771 908www.westinnusaduabali.com | Twitter: @westinbali



Hard Rock Caf Jakarta is back at a brand new spanking venue at Pacific Place Mall. The iconic restaurant is known for its collection of rock and roll memorabilia and photographs. The new Jakarta venue has a high ceiling which gives it a huge performance space feel. Their covered outdoor seating area is also a great for families with kids. Still on the menu are their famous spicy chicken wings, legendary hamburgers and ribs. These are topped up by local favorites sop buntut, nasi goreng and beef and chicken satay. For the young ones, there is a special menu which included fish fingers and fries and kiddie burgers. The kids also get their drinks in specially designed Hard Rock Caf sippy glasses which then can take home.

04. Hard Rock Caf, Jakarta

Newly renovated and renamed, Rasa at the InterContinental Jakarta MidPlaza is a feast for the senses.

The contemporary space features elaborate columns and artistic wall panels as a setting for its open-plan kitchen with live cooking stations for a greater interaction between guests and chefs. Executive Chef Gary Palm has gone above and beyond by creating a menu that is focused on using only the freshest ingredients which are prepared a la minute by his talented culinary staff. Children will be excited with the variety including the wide array of desserts.

05. RASA AT INTERCON JAKARTA

HARD ROCK CAFE JAKARTA | Pacific Place, SCBD Lot. 3-5 - Jakarta | +62 21 5797 3055www.hardrock.com | Twitter: @HardRockCafeJKT

InterContinental Jakarta Midplaza | Jalan Jend. Sudirman No.Kav 10-11, Jakarta | +62 21 2510888 www.intercontinental.com | Twitter: @InterConJakarta



During Christmas, all diets are off. Its a time to indulge. It is also the perfect time for those with a sweet tooth. Bring on the sweets and desserts. These are great gift suggestions, which could make anyone smile.

YUMMY TREATS

Create your own personalized gift set from a selection of home-made chocolate, cookies, goodies and flowers. Home or office delivery service is available.

Grand Hyatt JakartaFestive Hampers

Grand Hyatt Jakarta Hotel | Jalan Kebon Kacang Raya No.30, Jakarta | +62 21 29921234 www.jakarta.grand.hyatt.com | Twitter: @GrandHyattJKT



Freshly-made traditional sweet and spicy Gingerbread Houses for the little kids to enjoy. Available in their Kemang and Pacific Place stores.

Huize van Wely Gingerbread House

A yule log or bche de Nol is a traditional French dessert served during Christmas. It is considered a type of sweet roulade. The Ritz-Carltons version is known for its delicious and rich chocolate sweetness, and is ready to satisfy those festive holiday cravings. These cakes are sold at their Asia Cake Shop.

The Ritz-Carlton Jakarta, Mega KuninganCHRISTMAS YULE LOG

The Ritz-Carlton, Jakarta Mega Kuningan | Jalan Lingkar Mega Kuningan Kav. E.1.1 NO.1, Mega Kuningan, Jakarta+62 21 25518888 | www.ritzcarlton.com/en/Properties/Jakarta

Huize Van Wely | The Papilion, Jalan Kemang Raya No. 45 AA , Jakarta | +62 21 7191975www.thepapilion.com



stocking stuffersby RIAN FARISA

Christmas is the time to give, and receive too! Your friends and family will be very happy if they received any of these foodie items under the tree or in their stockings.

The NESCAF Dolce Gusto coffee machine from Krups is an outstanding little gadget which packs a punch. It stands above the competition as the only single-cup coffee machine which delivers a professional 15 bar pressure, guaranteeing a perfect cup and fine milk froth every time. Its innovative easy-to-use capsule system is specifically designed to ensure that each drink you make is fresh. The airtight capsules op-timize the extraction pressure for each flavor variety, delivering the best coffee quality, texture and milk froth, hot or cold. Another interesting development is that not only does their capsule system provide coffees, there are chocolate and tea variants too.

NESCAF DOLCE GUSTO GENIO

This 2in1 cocotte and tajine is excellent for one pot dishes. This shallow ceramic covered pot can be used on the oven or you can pop it into the oven. Stews, pot

roast, lamb tajine and many more can be cooked in it. You can even use the

cocotte to bake bread.

CERAMIC 2in1 COCOTTE AND TAJINE



The Kenwood kMix range of kitchen ap-pliances always have a chic and colour-ful design. Dismissing other toasters to

the sideline, its beauty is more than skin deep. A kMix toaster can be relied upon

to serve up perfectly browned slices time after time.

KENWOOD kMIX TOASTER

Fondue provides simple, fun and elegant entertaining for any dinner party. This simple traditional meal allows guests to prepare their own feast and enjoy con-versation and fun at the same time. This Swissmar Mont Blanc cast iron fondue set is perfect for such occasions.

SWISSMAR MONT BLANC FONDUE SET

NESCAF DOLCE GUSTO GENIO

PANTRY MAGIC | Jalan Kemang Raya no. 14B - Jakarta | +62 21 718 2573www.pantry-magic.com/ | Twitter: @PantryMagicIndo

With the holidays fast approaching, what better way to gather the whole Foodie family together than by inviting everyone to dinner, in this case, an advanced Christmas dinner. We ate, we drank and we made-merry.

A Home-style christmasPhotographs by MELANIE TANUSETIAWAN

The Foodie Familys Christmas Dinner

A Foodie's FeastROASTED TURKEY WITH TRIMMINGS

Glazed CarrotsGreen Beans with Caramelized Onions

sweet potato,Veal sausage and Country Bread Stuffing

Cranberry-Apple Cider SauceTurkey Jus

ROASTED WHOLE TENDERLOIN

Truffle-Infused Mushroom Ragout

Roasted Pumpkin and ArugulaRoasted Sweet Corn

TOASTED MARSHMALLOW PUMPKIN PIE

Chef Maya Aldy

COV E R F E AT U R E


Photograph by DENNIE BENEDICT

Brilliant Home Businessesby ELLYNA TJOHNARDI AND RICHMOND BLANDOphotographs by DENNIE BENEDICT

Brilliant Home Businesses Across the country, many home cooks have opened successful food busi-nesses. Call it a tribute to both good taste and the entrepreneurial spirit, we have chosen four bright stars which are just waiting to be sampled.



01. BUTTER JAKARTA

Zulspassion: design and food. Baking and decorating comes naturally for Zul, which makes him wonder how he will face the challenge of managing his shop on a daily basis.

Zuls cakes speak for themselves, he believes consistency is the key that keeps the customers coming back and also makes it easy for them to refer him to their friends. He also believes that, being in the custom cake business does not mean customers will be lenient on the taste. In fact, with his keen design eyes, Zul could ensure that Butters cakes would not only look, but also taste good.

Looking at all these pretty cakes would make one think, She (the baker) must be very talented. But whoever said it was a she? Tall, dark and handsome Zul Siregar, an Industrial Design graduate, started crafting custom cakes two years ago. Before his culinary epiphany, Zul worked as a creative agent at an advertising agency. He only baked occasionally as a leisurely past time. Deep down inside though, Zul had always had an inkling that he would somehow end up in the F&B business, and now it is a reality.

In the beginning, Zul would squeeze himself into his parents kitchen and use whatever utensils available. But those shortcomings did not hamper his progress.

In the beginning, Zul would just sell his 3D cakes to friends who would commission wedding, birthday or cakes for any occasion. He used social media to showcase his designs and to get more customers. Of course, friends who were happy with his creations told friends, and it caught on. Now formally named Butter, Zuls small business has given birth to its first outlet in Pejaten, South Jakarta.

Running Butter is such a convenient choice of career that offers the joy of both

BUTTER | Jalan Warung Buncit Raya no. 98 Jakarta | +62 21 798 3359www.facebook.com/butterjakarta | Twitter: @butter _ baked


Before Linda joined her husband Boni in Jakarta in 1979, she took the time to enroll in a course in processed meat in the Philippines. She brought that recipe to Indonesia with the simple goal of creating dishes that would keep them from being homesick, later she would give some to friends.

Through the encouragement of her children and friends, she continued to make it over the years and got to a point where, through word-of-mouth, people would pay her for it. Then just like that, it became a home business.

Ironically, their business grew only when Boni retired and was able to pour his talents of marketing and sales into the business. He explained, Our product is 99% fat free, thats how we have kept our customers happy and satisfied. We work hard to maintain this quality. Originally part of a breakfast menu, Lindas corned beef has found its way to several restaurants in Jakarta.

After 34 years in Indonesia, they still make their homemade corned beef by themselves.

This has been part of our life now. There are times when we wake up thinking about how to make the product even better.

02. LINDAS Home made Corned Beef

www. thefoodiemag.com | 29LiINDAS HOMEMADE CORNED BEEF | +62 812 9184266, +62 815 8750916


03. MACARONI HOUSE


Mothers, do you know that having a picky-eater kids could be a blessing in disguise? Clara Caroline, a mother of 2 young children owner of Macaroni House, had a tough time trying to appease her sons highly selective palate. Only later did she realize that the cooking she was doing for her kids would actually be worth selling.

Faced with many financial difficulties, Clara wanted to help her husband make ends meet. She started to sell her tasty macaroni to friends and family. Macaroni House started small, as a home business with no physical address, just one that starts with www. Social media, once again proved to be a crucial agent in spreading the word about Claras business. In tandem with spreading the word, Clara had to ensure that her products were always consistent and top notch.

Now, Claras dedication has paid off, Macaroni House has its own outlet in Pesanggrahan, West Jakarta. They also have eight signature flavours, with the quality of their ingredients remaining very high. Their baked macaroni for kids is 100% MSG free and uses soya milk instead of regular cows milk.

So, the next time your child has difficulty eating, perhaps youll find a solution that not only solves the problem, but also can become profitable.

MACARONI HOUSE | Jalan Raya Pesanggrahan no. 168B - Jakarta |+62 21 580 9172www.facebook.com/macaroni.house| Twitter: @macaroni _ house


Your legendary martabak, the apt tagline of Martabak Pecenongan 65A, began when Pak Agus decided to leave his hometown of Bandung to move to Jakarta more than twenty years ago. He decided to open a martabak stall on Jalan Pecenongan in Central Jakarta, back then, only a handful of food hawkers were there. Today, Martabak Pecenongan 65A is one of the stalls which has solidified Pecenongans reputation as a foodies haven. For the uninitiated, martabak is is a stuffed pan-fried pancake with a sweet or savory filling. In this case, all their stuffing are sweet.

As a martabak institution in Jakarta, it is impressive how Martabak 65A was able to adapt to the current communication technology. Like wildfire, their martabak Toblerone and Nutella have been burning the social media airwaves, prompting curious and appreciative customers to queue over an hour just to taste the delectable treat. Pak Agus son, Danniel, understands the might of social media and he uses it well for the business. All the comments, likes and feedbacks from the customers never go unnoticed.

Danniel reveals that Martabak 65A never takes the shortcut just for the sake of market share. When prices of ingredients hiked, they would increase their prices as well, instead of compromising their quality. Some people (including myself) do complain about the premium prices they charge but despite that, the queue at the stall does not seem to be getting shorter. A testament to the quality and flavor of their martabak, which we can unarguably say, are selling like hotcakes!

04. MARTABAK PECENONGAN 65A

www. thefoodiemag.com | 31MARTABAK 65A | Jalan Pecenongan no. 65a - Jakarta | +62 21 350 4081www.martabak65a.com | Twitter: @Martabak65a



Chef Thierrys Christmas Memories

The Mandarin Oriental Jakartas chef Thierry

Le Queau sits down with us to fondly

reminisce some of his foodie Christmas

memories.

by RIAN FARISAphotographs by HIMAWAN SUTANTO



Imagine Brittany at wintertime, the small sleepy town of Pont-lAbbe suddenly awakens and becomes vibrant during the cold days before Christmas. The festive atmosphere brings everyone in the neighborhood together. Although snow may be rare in the region, strong icy winds blow in from the Atlantic. This does not dampen the excitement of the celebrations to come.

Chef Thierry Le Queau comes from a family of fishermen and farmers. Having the bounty of the sea and the earth at their disposal, Theirrys family developed a good taste in food and were all natural cooks. Christmastime was usually the time my dad went back home and that made it very special for me, he recounts. For the holidays, he remembers his father brought back the freshest turbot and monkfish while he helped his mother to prepare the spiny lobster with Armoricaine sauce and the langoustines poached in court-bouillon served with mayonnaise. Its always been classic, simple, healthy, yet flavourful countryside dishes that we had for dinner, he further adds. For the dessert, of course nobody wanted to miss a huge slice of the Christmas logs from Pont-lAbbes finest pastry shop.

Home grown produce from my familys farm and freshly caught seafood cooked in sea water, were always staples to make our Christmas dinner special, says Thierry. However, for me, the best part was that it all started with the Prat-Ar-Coum oysters we had, he continues. This set the tone for every Christmas meal. Not only because of the sentimental reasons, Thierry values these oysters for their unique flavor. The nutty flavor together with its sweetness make these oysters extraordinary.

You see, the best way to enjoy these delicate oysters is to splash them with vinegar and shallots, then you drizzle them a bit with squeezed lemon. There you have it, the pride of Brittany!, he exclaims with a wide smile and a youthful sparkle in his eye. This Christmas, to take away his homesickness, Chef Thierry plans to serve his favorite the Prat-Ar-Coum oysters at Lyon. Do sample them, if you have the chance.

MANDARIN ORIENTAL JAKARTA | Jalan M.H. Thamrin - PO BOX 3392 Jakarta | +62 21 2993 8888www.mandarinoriental.com/jakarta | Twitter: @MO _ JAKARTA


Do Not Try This At HomeCooking intimidates a lot of people. Some think its messy, some think they dont have the skill, some think its difficult. Have no fear, we present to you two easy Italian dishes you can do at home which you always thought you could only eat at restaurants. Happy cooking!

TRADITIONAL PESTOPrep time: 10 minutesYield: 1 cup

INGREDIENTS 2 cups Basil leaves 3 cloves Garlic (roughly chopped) 1/3 cup Pine nuts 1/2 cup Freshly grated parmegiano-regiano cheese 1/2 cup Extra virgin olive oil To taste Salt and Pepper

EQUIPMENTSFood processor or mortar and pestle

STEPS Wash with cold water and thoroughly dry

the basil leaves. Place the basil leaves in the food proces-

sor or in the bowl of the mortar. Add the pine nuts and the garlic to the

basil. Pulse with the food processor or start to grind the ingredients together using the pestle. Remember to scrape the sides of the food processor or the mortal bowl to have an even consistency.

Add the cheese and the olive oil in a steady stream as you pulse or mix using the pestle. Make sure everything is incor-porated well.

Season with salt and some freshly ground pepper.

Serve with freshly cooked pasta. Store unused pesto in clean, air-tight jars

in the refrigerator. The pesto will keep for one month.


Al dente refers the pasta being cooked so it is still firm to the bite but not soft.

It is important to remove pasta from the cook-ing liquid just before it has fully cooked through, to prevent the residual heat of the boiling liquid to cook it through.

Always gently stir your pasta to ensure it cooks

What does al dente really mean? evenly. Toward the end of the cooking time, bite into a piece of pasta to see if it has nearly cooked through. It should be firm to bite. To stop the cook-ing process, immediately run the pasta through cold or iced water.

Remember if you are going to serve the pasta with a warm sauce, the pasta will continue to cook in the sauce, thats why it is better to remove the pasta from the cooking liquid once it is al dente.


HOMEMADE PIZZAYields 2 (12 inch) Pizzas

INGREDIENTS 1/2 ounce Active dry yeast 1 1/4 cup Lukewarm Water 3 1/2 cups All-purpose flour 1 tsp Salt 1 tsp Sugar 1/4 cup Canola Oil 1/2 pound Ground Beef 1 pc Small Onion 1 can Tomato Sauce 3 tsp Dried Oregano 1 tsp Dried Basil 1 pc Medium Bell Pepper, diced 1/2 cup Salami, sliced 1/4 cup Olives 2 cups Mozzarella cheese, shredded 1 cup Parmesan cheese, gratedOptional Variety of toppings: sausages, ham, pepperoni, grilled chicken, etc STEPS1. In large bowl, dissolve yeast and sugar in

water; let stand for 5 minutes. Add oil and salt. Stir in flour, a cup at a time, until a soft dough forms.

2. Turn onto floured surface; knead until smooth and elastic, about 2-3 minutes. Place in a greased bowl, turning once to grease the top. Cover and let rise in a warm place until doubled, about 45 minutes. Meanwhile, cook beef and onion over medium heat until no longer pink; drain.

3. Punch down dough; divide into half.

Press each into a greased 12-in. pizza pan. Combine the tomato sauce, oregano and basil; spread over each crust. Top with cheese, beef mixture, green pepper, olives and salami.

4. Bake at 400C for 25-30 minutes or until

crust is lightly browned.


CO N F E S S IO N S O F A F O O DI E

Thai Trailsby JED DOBLE photographs by ACHMAD BAIHAKI

Anantara Seminyaks new GM, Clinton Lovell may be new to the island but he brings with him a wealth of experience as a hotelier and a foodie. Our brief chat with him yielded a number of food revelations.


CO N F E S S IO N S O F A F O O DI E

His new role as general manager at the Anantara Seminyak Bali is not just a new post for Clinton Lovell. It also marks a new destination and a new country for him. Not only that, the move signals a new chapter in his life, with the birth of his baby son just a little over a month ago. Exciting times for him.

Before being assigned to Bali, Clinton held a number of key positions in Siem Reap, Koh Samui, Pattaya and Bangkok. Spending the last eight years in Thailand. Having spent quite some time heading resorts, his new position at Anantara Seminyak fits him perfectly. He notices great similarities with the hospitality in Bali and Thailand and looks forward to using the unique Anantara touch points in making the stays of their guests in Bali more memorable.

With his long tenure in Thailand, our conversation unwittingly veered to food. Clinton acclaims: I know food well. Food is one of my passions. I have a good understanding of Thai food. Im very excited about Thai food. He proudly declares that he has two favorite Thai dishes. First is kao soi from the Northern Thai city of Chiang Mai, which is a curried spicy noodle dish with chicken or prawns, served with a lot of onions and different condiments to go with it. And second is yum tua ploo or winged bean salad, this star shaped vegetable is cut finely and served with a spicy sauce, peanuts, prawns and crispy noodle. Its unique combination of textures and tastes make for a wonderful dish. Clinton conveniently keeps a record of his favorite dishes on his phone, to help him in ordering.

In addition to his passion for Thai food, Clinton has a fondness for French cuisine.

In Bangkok, some of the French restaurants he frequents include The Indigo on Silom for its authentic French experience and Le Beaulieu on Wireless Road. In Pattaya he marvels at the small and quaint French restaurants which have been set up by expats who have settled there. The food is always great with a homey feel to it. His Thai restaurant recommendations in Bangkok include David Thompsons Nahm at The Metropolitan Hotel and Baan Glom Gig, where he takes most of his friends who visit Bangkok for its well prepared and decent Thai food.

Another memorable venue for Clinton is the Lord Jims Restaurant at the Mandarin Oriental Bangkok. He proposed to his wife here. He says that the restaurant evokes everything of what Bangkok is about, the location by the riverside together with the amazing service make it truly a special place.

In Koh Samui, the dining scene takes on a more European feel. Venues like Nikki Beach and Beach Republic offer Sunday brunches and a great party atmosphere. His notables include Oceans Eleven in trendy Bangrak and Spirit House in Chaweng because it is an oasis of peace and quiet.

Clintons personal favorite in Samui is the Tree Tops restaurant at the Anantara Luwana Koh Samui. In this romantic setting, guests get their own private tree house where their meal is served.

As a last question, I asked what Clintons foodie guilty pleasure was. I am weak when it comes to a vanilla crme brulee, he answers without hesitation. Im not an especially sweet tooth, but a good dessert rounds off a perfect meal and is a lasting impression as you go off. Perfectly said.

Kao Soi Yum Tua Ploo


W E N T T H E R E AT E T H AT


We are shaped by the things we come in contact with. Sam Owens

Finding Homeby RICHMOND BLANDO



If you ever find yourself going to or coming from St. Moritz, no, not the one in Puri Indah, but the real one in Switzerland, try to make a day trip to Zernez and if you do, go ahead and catch a 30 minute bus ride to a little town in Santa Maria, Mstair.

While there were several things that were supposed to be the key visits of this side trip like the Manufactura Tessanda or the convent of St. John, to me however, the lunch at Hotel Chalavaina was the highlight of that day.

We were looking for a place to have lunch and being in a small town most eater-ies were in hotels. The hotels here are either old or really old, or the more politically correct terms, quaint or really quaint.

As we entered, I immediately noticed the uneven steps and the dead animals skulls that lined the wall. It was dark and the furniture creaked, to say that it smelled old would be of an understatement I loved it.

We walked into the restaurant, there were about 6 other guests, it was poorly lit, and with only a window and some candles

providing some light. Enter Hans with the dinnerware, the owner, manager and chef of the establishment. He was in his late 70s I presumed, judging by his appearance. He smiled and we smiled back, Nice place you have here I said, he stared blankly at me and muttered Uhhh and then he walked away. My companions stared at each other and gave a snicker, when he came back our Swiss guide started to speak in German and immediately Hans shoulders dropped and smiled toothlessly.

Monika, our guide, asked about the hotel and Hans began talking away.

This hotel was about 130 years old, our family was the third owner in the 40s and I am part of the 2nd generation.

Are you also the chef? Monika aked.I cook, but I am hardly a chef, the

recipes I use belonged to my mother.He explained that he does not have a

menu, he cooks whatever he buys from the market and his guests will only have the choice of whether they eat it or not. The one thing everybody seems to appreciate is that, he does all of the cooking here, from the baking the bread in his 60 year old

traditional stove, or braising meats in copper pot in an open fire in the back, everything is done here.

I have been doing this for 50 years and I have never have anyone complain about my cooking, except for my children who of-ten complains about everything anyway. He smiled toothlessly again, we all smiled back.

Our lunch came out, it was braised venison, from a deer that was just hunted the day before, some blanched vegetables, some sptzle, and in the middle of the table, he served some pureed apple.

This was originally baked apple, but I overcooked it so you get applesauce instead I looked at it, took a spoonful and it was surprisingly very light with a beautiful blend of sweet and sour.

To cap it all off we had some locally bottled merlot wine from the region (which was not really all that good).

Sometimes the experience of food does not necessarily have to be so heavenly that the flavors stick into our memories, sometimes the conversations that happen around the dinner table is what makes that experience a moment to remember.



The meat dishes of Ilocos were not common viands before, as they were mainly served during fiestas and celebrations. As can be seen from the way the dishes are cooked, it would take several hours, if not days to prepare.

The food from the Ilocos province uses a lot of locally grown vegetables. This is seen in many of their dishes, from string beans, squash, okras, and winter melons as common ingredients. They also have an acquired taste for bitter gourd, moringa and jute leaves. People can tell youre Ilocano if you single out these ingredients from the rest of your food and eat them with gusto.

They are however far from being vegetarians. Ilocano cuisine also offers several mouth-watering beef, chicken and pork dishes. The dishes that are quite unique to the Ilocanos and are considered as a popular dish in the country are: Pinakbet, Chicken Pipian, Papaitan, Bagnet, Longganisa and the Ilocos empanada.

Pinakbet is very healthy which is also quite simple to make. Just saut garlic and

CRASH COURSE in NORTHERN PHILIPPINE CUISINEby RICHMOND BLANDO photographs by DENNIE BENEDICT

The Ilocanos are what we call the natives of the region or province of Ilocos in the Northern Philippines and despite their reputation for being thrifty the diversity of their dishes may say otherwise.


onions and throw in all the other ingredients - bitter melon, eggplant, okra, squash, string beans, tomatoes, and ginger, the flavor of the soup base is enhanced by adding shrimp paste (bagoong na alamang).

The key to cooking both these dishes is to add the vegetables in certain intervals. The pot is given a few shakes in order to toss them around. A spoon or ladle is not used to stir, as this may ruin the texture of the vegetables. Finally, adding grilled pork makes the dish more palatable.

Chicken Pipian was known as Pollo en Pipian, as it originated from Mexico. Today, the dish has evolved into a native recipe, unique to Vigan, because of the al pasotes leaves or Epazote which is only grown in this province. Aside from this ingredient, this dish also uses Averrhoa bilimbi or Kamias to enhance the tangy flavor. People often mistake this for a viand because of its vibrant color, but it is actually a sort of congee, so eating it with rice makes it quite redundant.

The Bagnet is my personal favorite, so much so that I have to control myself. Braised in water with various herbs for an hour, cooled and hanged for 45 minutes and then deep-fried again. A juicy and crispy experience, it is almost ironic that it takes less than 5 minutes to eat it all up.

Lastly, the empanada - Its crisp exterior, along with the various textures and flavors of the filling, makes for a rather memorable experience, when eaten. One tip though: it would be enjoyed better when lightly dipped in Ilocos vinegar.

With the time and effort that goes into one dish, it could be said that Ilocano dishes are a labor of love -- maybe thats the reason why they taste so good.

T R I E D A N D T I P S I E D


Armand de Brignac Brut Gold

Quite distinctive with its strik-ing gold bottle, it is the highest rated champagne in the world. Aside from the careful selec-tion of grapes, each bottle is made by hand in limited num-ber by a staff of just 8 people. It is complex and full-bodied with a fresh and lively aroma with light floral notes. On the palate, it has a racy fruit character texture is deliciously creamy, with great depth paired with a long, silky finish. Perfect for grandest of celebrations.

Billecart-Salmon Brut Ros

One of the best non vintage ros in the world. This orange-pink wine is dry and crisp with a fruity raspberry flavor at the fore. It is served on Garuda, Qantas, Qatar and Cathay Pacific First and Business Class.

Bruno Paillard Brut Premiere Cuve

The flagship of the Bruno Paillard Champagne house for its extremely high quality and personality. To the eye, it has a bright straw gold color, brought about by the exclusive use of the first pressing and large percentage of Chardon-nay. Wafting from the glass is a blend of apple, lemon zest, brioche, and a touch of orange peel. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and complex.

What better way to celebrate the festive season that to pop open a bottle of champagne. Any of these bottles would be worthy of a New Years Eve toast. Now dont spill!

Bring on the Bubblesby JED DOBLE

When yeast magically changes sugar into alcohol in the fer-mentation process, carbon dioxide is emitted as its byproduct. In Champagne, the winemakers always put additional sugar and yeast into the bottled wine, with the intention to trap the carbon dioxide (which forms the bubbles) inside the bottle. Thats how bubbly gets its bubbles. But thats also the fairly easy part.

How Does Bubbly Get Its Bubbles?

by YOHAN HANDOYOWine Story Teller @yohanhandoyoyohanhandoyo.com



Pol Roger Sir Winston Churchill

Known as Sir Winston Church-ills favorite champagne, they subsequently named their top Cuve, Sir Winston Church-ill. It has an impressively rich, dry style from one of the oldest and most distinguished Champagne houses. It is also the favorite of the British Royal family, was also served at the wedding of the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge.

Larmandier-Bernier Ros de Saigne

Quite different from your usual ros with its crimson color. Saigne literally means to bleed. It is not surprising that it has a lot of fruity depth, notes of black cherry and strawber-ry. Mainly taken with food, it could be served alongside any dish that might be served with grand cru Burgundy.

Bollinger Special Cuve

Made with 60% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay and 15% Meunier, this bottle is indeed special with over 85% of its grapes coming from Grands and Premiers crus. It has a pretty golden color, distinctive of black grape varieties and very fine bubbles. It has a distinct ripe fruit and spicy aroma with hints of apples and peaches. Ideal with most seafood and especially Japanese sushi and sashimi.

The real art is how to produce decadently fine, creamy and persistent bubbles. This is done by ageing the bottle in cool temperature while maintaining the wine in contact with the dead yeast (called lees) in a fairly long period of time. The longer and the cooler the process, the finer, creamier, and more persistent the dis-solved carbon dioxide will be. I guess patience is always rewarded in the end.

A few years ago, Bill Lembeck, a scientist with too much time on his hands, calculated that there are around 49 million bubbles in a standard 750ml bottle of Champagne. I will be very happy to finish all that 49 million sparkle anytime.

OUT NOW!Available at your favorites book stores

Usher in the Christmas Spiritby JED DOBLE

Popular around North America as a Christmas beverage, Eggnog is easy to do and easily gets everyone into the merry-making mood at any Christmas party. Diageos Kabir Suharan shares his own recipe which uses Ron Zacapa Rum for that added zing. Dont worry about the calories, its the holidays anyway!

PREP TIME: 10 minutesYIELD: Serves 4

INGREDIENTS 150 ml Ron Zacapa 23 year-old Rum 30 ml Sugar syrup 2 pcs Fresh Eggs, yolks and whites separated 30 ml Heavy Double Cream 100 ml Fresh Milk Fresh Nutmeg 4 pcs Cinnamon stick for garnish STEPS Beat egg yolks until thick and add sugar

syrup. Add in double cream and milk and continue whisk until well incorporated. Drizzle in the Zacapa.

In a separate bowl, whisk egg whites to stiff peaks.

To assemble, pour egg yolk and Zacapa mixture into a glass filled with ice but leave 2-fingers from the rim of the glass. Add the whipped egg whites on top. Grate fresh nutmeg on top. Serve with a cin-namon stick as garnish.

Alternative: Fuss-free method: Combine all ingredients in a cocktail shaker (halve the measurements above so it fits into the shaker) without ice and shake hard. This will help emulsify the egg into the mixture. Once mixture is thoroughly shaken, add ice to shaker, shake hard and strain into a glass filled with ice. Grate nutmeg and serve with cinnamon stick.

KABIRS ZACAPA EGGNOG



OUT NOW!Available at your favorites book stores

T H E F I N E R T H I N G S

Chef Gilles Marx latest venture Auroz Gourmet Grill gives us a stunning new dining experience in Central Jakarta.

AlluringAurozby JED DOBLEphotographs by MELANIE TANUSETIAWAN

T H E F I N E R T H I N G S

Well known as a pillar of the Jakarta culinary scene via his signature restaurant Amuz, Chef Gilles Marx is also an affable man. He timidly smiles at guests he comes across at his restaurants, each meal is punctuated by a quick visit from this creative genius to check if everything is going well. And most often, it is.

When we heard that Chef Gilles had opened a new restaurant, we were not surprised at all. More people should be able to experience his brand of fine cuisine. Auroz, which sounds similar to Amuz, is strategically located in downtown Jakarta, close to the National Monument and the Bank of Indonesia complex. Dubbed as a French American grill and bistro, Auroz is relaxed at the same time evokes an immediate sense of the finer things. Whereas Amuz is full luxury and fine dining, Auroz is casual, exciting and fun. Ideal for family meals and groups. The large open kitchen welcomes patrons, signaling that the meal about to be had is both perfectly executed and creative.

Chef de cuisine Alex Riehl, a fellow Alsatian, helms this kitchen, with of course careful supervision by Chef Gilles. The food here is not 100% traditional French, unlike Amuz. The two chefs describe the Auroz menu as French in the soul, prepared the French way, but punctuated by other influences. The food here may have an Asian or an international touch, a play on flavors wherein the chefs can have a little bit more creativity and fun. The bistro feel ensures that meals are jovial and enjoyable. Initially Chef Gilles designed the whole menu but now Chef Alex has flexed his own creativity and cooperates to create new plates.

The young Alex has had quite a bit of cooking under his belt. He started cooking when he was 16 at a good French restaurant in his home of Alsace and has traveled the world, cooking in England, St. Barts in the Caribbean and Bangkok. Now in Jakarta, he says that he enjoys the city and appreciates the friendly nature of his Indonesian patrons.

During our visit, Chef Alex regaled our paletes with a decadent pan seared foie gras with caramelized pear and spice sauce, a perfectly cooked crispy Tasmanian salmon with fresh gnocchi and balsamic reduction and to cap the meal off, a lovely lemon tart with melon sorbet. Other notables on the menu are the foie gras with angel hair pasta, the 12 hour cooked pork belly and their duck confit.

I guess I will be making a few more trips to Central Jakarta from now on. With its strategic location and excellently prepared food, Auroz Gourmet Grill is set to have its own fans flocking over soon.

by JED DOBLEphotographs by MELANIE TANUSETIAWAN

www. thefoodiemag.com | 49AUROZ GOURMET GRILL | Menara Merdeka, Jalan Budi Kemuliaan I no. 2 Jakarta | +62 21 2957 3690www.aurozgourmet.com | Twitter: @aurozgourmet


C U LT U R E

SuShi Etiquetteby RICHMOND BLANDO

It is most likely that you will experience something Japa-nese at one point in your life. From electronic brands to anime cartoons and of course Japanese food.

Japan is a country full of culture and tradition and if you break them, you will be either be frowned upon, corrected gently or angrily yelled at. So take some time to read some of the things that may just save you from embarrassment.

DOsYou can pick up sushi using chopsticks (hashi) or fingers, but nobody really eats it with their fingers.

When using your fingers,lightly Dip the fish part into a small amount of soy sauce. If you dip the rice part most likely the shape of the sushi will be compromised.

Put the whole portion in our mouth holding the sushi so the fish touches your tongue.

When using chopsticks, use the Blunt back end when getting food from a shared plate.

Rest the narrow tip on the ceramic holder (hashi-oki) when you are not using them.

Rub your wooden chopsticks together. This is rude but it mainly applies to a lot of the good sushi restaurants because they would never use such low quality chopsticks.

Bite it in half and then put the remainder on the plate.

Flop a big piece of pickled ginger onto your sushi before eating it.

Dunk the rice into the soy sauce

Dump the Wasabi in soy sauce, making it into a soup.

Hand the money directly to the chef, he will never touch money.(Do not forget to say oishi to the chef and smile).W

Rest the whole chopsticks across the soy saucer to signal that you are finished.

DONTs

Eat the ginger after the sushi as a palete cleanser.

TA K I N G IT TO T H E S T R E E T S

Iarrived just in the nick of time before a heavy downpour at this famed hawker stall that has made Jalan Sabang popular. It was quite packed inside the tent as people quickly closed in to any available seats lest they be caught in the rain. I was famished and the strong aromas wafting from the large wok nearby did not help. I managed to secure a seat, and all that was left iwas to order the infamous dish Nasi Goreng Gila!

The word gila literally means crazy in English. Added at the end of nasi goreng as an adjective, it represents the crazy mixture of ingredients thrown into the normal fried rice. These may include such items as meatballs, sliced sausage, fried egg, vegetables, chicken gizzards, shredded chicken and even corned beef. This stir fried madness is served with emping crackers, sliced tomatoes and cucumbers.

Back to my rumbling tummy. Luckily, the deft hand of the man at the wok finished my order in no time. I was happy with how swiftly I was served, and by the time I tasted it, it must say, it was a tasty crazy mix. Although it may sound ridiculous to put all of these ingredients into a single dish, but all that flavor simply ensure that people surely love it! The whole gila experience is cemented by how busy Jalan Sabang really is. It is packed with cars moving along, street musicians jumping from one hawker stand to to another and the noisy sound of bajaj passing by.

If you dont feel like having nasi goreng, then other quick stir-fry Chinese-style dishes such as noodles, vermicelli, or capcay (mixed vegetables) are there for you to choose. For hardcore fans of nasi goreng, plenty of selections aside from the gila version are also available.

I conversed with Noni, the proprietors daughter. She gladly told me the story of their humble beginnings. Her father, Pak Aji, used to work as an ice block seller around the neighborhood but one day decided to change the course of his destiny and join forces with a close friend to start the nasi goreng stall. Now years later, their stall is still there, serving a few hundred plates of nasi goreng a night, more on weekends.

The nasi goreng gila concept was actually began at the legendary hawker street around Taman Menteng. Inspired, they tried to make their own version. Surprisingly, they accidentally put the crazy mixture into the fried rice, and as the saying goes, the rest is history. The nasi goreng gila Sabang has turned into an iconic Jakarta dish, which has been there for more than a decade now. Many Jakartans know that if they want a quick comfort food, whether they are headed home after work, or coming from a late night out, they can always come to Jalan Sabang for a quick fix.


The ubiquitous Nasi Goreng Gila Sabang can be described as Jakarta on a plate!

Nasi Goreng Gila Sabangby RIAN FARISAphotographs by DENNIE BENEDICT

TA K I N G IT TO T H E S T R E E T S


Nasi Goreng Gila Sabang

NASI GORENG GILA | Jalan H. Agus Salim / Sabang (in front of Garuda Restaurant) Jakarta | +62 857 1029 6050

I CO N I C


I CO N I C

Satay or sate originated in Java and is available almost anywhere in Indonesia, it can be unofficially called the Indonesian national dish. It is a dish of seasoned, skewered and grilled meats, served with a sauce. The most famous satays are done with chicken, beef or lamb cubes. Sauces vary from province to province but the most common is a peanut sauce or simply drenched with kecap manis (sweet soy sauce). Satay are usually eaten with a plate of hot fluffy rice, with bird-eye chili and pickles made from shallots, cucumbers, and carrots. Whew! Writing that just made my mouth water.

Being Indonesian, I am proud of satay and its traditions. It is a dish that can truly be representative of the country, it is glorious and celebrated by everyone, be it from the lowly kaki lima (hawker) or a fancy restaurant.

Back before 1974, hawkers dominated the satay scene all over Jakarta, it was only then that Satay House Senayan introduced the art of enjoying satay in a restaurant. Satay House Senayan quickly gained recognition from it and since then, the dish has been elevated to a new heights of appreciation.

With its traditionalist theme and goals to preserve the cultural heritage of Indonesia, Satay House Senayan began with its first ever restaurant on Jalan Pakubuwono. It was carefully designed to promote a traditional and local feel, such as the use of wayang (Javanese shadow puppets) and an earthy atmosphere, while also features mostly Javanese cuisine on the menu. It was pretty much revolutionary at that time to see a restaurant that bravely promoted local values both in the design and cuisine.

Of course, the satay formula here is something you cannot take lightly. For instance, the perfectly grilled chicken satay utilizes not only the meat but also the chicken skin which complement each other flawlessly especially when dipped to the uniquely thick and silky peanut sauce. Fine additions in the menu such as lamb or


Sate Khas Senayanby RIAN FARISAphotographs by DENNIE BENEDICT

prawn satays, tahu telor, nasi liwet, soto ayam, or sop buntut are also among the clienteles favorites, alongside myriad of other Indonesian dishes available here.

Due to a government regulation to prohibit the use of foreign names for brands and products during the period of New Order regime, Satay House Senayan had to alter its name to Sate Khas Senayan a name which was chosen carefully and cleverly rhymes with the old one. Sate Khas Senayan also realized the importance of adapting itself with the trends and decided to empower their restaurants with modern touches on many aspects. Nowadays, we can see the standardization of the restaurants design concept and some are equipped with such modern day features like al fresco seating, WIFI and late night dining during weekends to attract young adults who love to hang out.

Its changing times brought Sate Khas Senayan to also compete in shopping malls and it even provides an express service concept in selected food courts to cater quick business lunches. Thus so far, Sate Khas Senayan has proven itself consistent not only with its delicious satays but it has always been the ardent patron of anything Indonesian starting from the ever-rotating Indonesian menu done annually, the traditional touch on the concept and design, and quite recently; publishing the English version of comic books about Pandawa a legendary wayang tale.

As with any iconic persona or institution, the true testament to longevity is its ability to adapt with the changing times. With its modest start in 1974 and slowly and steady expansion through the past three decades, the company has reaped the reward of its hard work. This year alone, it has added seven branches, bringing it to a total of 30 Sate Khas Senayan branches all over the country. With its solid foundation and drive to embrace and accept change, Sate Khas Senayan is bound to be with us, feeding us their perfectly cooked satay for many more years.

SATE KHAS SENAYANAround 30 locations across Jakarta | http://www.sarirasagrup.com | Twitter: @satekhassenayan

A F O O DI E S L I F E

The Chef is also a Family Man

by RIAN FARISAphotographs by DENNIE BENEDICT

We all know Chef Vindex Tengker as the very exacting judge on reality TV cooking shows MasterChef and Top Chef and as the executive chef at Jakartas The Dharmawangsa hotel. But what we dont know is that he is a dotting family man and an avid musician.


The slow rise to the top. Thats pretty much how one could describe Chef Vindex Tengkers glimmering career starting from his apprenticeship years in Bali, to his adventures in Spain and the United States, and eventually coming back home to assume top chef posts at several prestigious hotels in Bali and Jakarta. Behind his busy affairs, I recently found out that our Manadoan chef is after all a family man, musician and a foodie at heart.

My encounters with Chef Vindex have always been food related. Stopping by our table to make sure that everything was good at the Sriwijaya restaurant wherein he holds court or he would be personally carving a slice of the succulent Txogitxu beef or serving lobster thermidor at the Jakarta. Sometimes I would catch him on TV dishing out his judgment on his reality cooking shows.

One windy Saturday afternoon, I was lucky enough to be brought into the chefs safe haven. Home is in a high rise apartment complex overlooking the greenery at one of Jakartas most respectable neighborhoods. Immediately, I longed for my own home as I was welcomed into the midst of Vindexs family, his wife and daughter Hannah, warmly greeting me.

Soon enough, not only was I welcomed



to their home, I was also treated to an impromptu performance and show of togetherness between Vindex and Hannah as they played an uplifting classical tune on the piano. Once could not miss out the glimmer of pride in the chefs eyes as he tapped the ivory with his daughter. Then Vindex himself played solo Richard Marxs Right Here Waiting. He even does an encore ballad with his guitar. What a lovely experience.

Upon this Vindex says, Well, aside from music and a little bit of sports, actually collecting cookbooks has always been my favourite pastime and I enjoy seeking inspirations from Michelin-starred chefs cookbooks. I spy a bookshelf dedicated to his collection of cookbooks from which he acquires the inspiration to orchestrate a fine selection for ingredients, colors, and compositions.

This is the part where I finally grasp why he instills the thirst for knowledge for both himself and his family. Seeing Hannah for example, not only do I admire the fourth graders talent in music, she is also a budding artist with her beautiful paintings that decorate the walls of the apartment.

Last but not least, I have to thank Charlie Trotter for giving me so much during my early years as a chef, he reminisces. He admits that it wasnt easy to access knowledge during his early years and the




Vindex puts forth a reminder: You have to look again inside yourself whether you have the passion, because being a professional is not as easy as it seems. Ultimately, its all about whether you love your job or not. I started this job a long ago, but I am still in love with it, and its never too late to learn.

Without us realizing, the night has fallen and its time to say goodbye. Vindex escorts us to the lobby, he is on his way back to the hotel to oversee an event. Work may have its demands, but he surely establishes a healthy work-life balance.

cookbook series from the late Chef Trotter were his loyal learning companion. Not forgetting his roots, Vindex also gives a special credit to his grandmother back in Manado. A long time ago, she introduced him to classic Northern Sulawesis cooking like bruine boon soup or rica-rica. Well, that explains why one time I had a good Western-style dish fused with tuturuga sauce cooked by the chef.

Naturally Id ask any chef whether they would still cook something refined or fancy when they are at home, but Vindex

chooses to stay easy and simple. I never really cook something complicated back home. Sometimes I just prepare simple stir-fry dishes with grilled fish or grilled eggplant and make sambal terasi. Another time, Id cook a clear soup with fried tempe and again, sambal. Homey!, he admits.

Before we part, I ask the chef whether he has a message to convey for aspiring chefs nowadays. He admits that chances are more open either to seek information through the internet or also to seek knowledge outside the country. Chef

Chef Maya Aldy joins The Foodie Magazine with her recurring column, Mayas Musings. Maya trained at the French Culinary Institute and has extensive cooking experience in various kitchens in New York, Bali and Jakarta. She is head chef and part owner of Otel Lobby in South Jakarta. Aside from cooking, Maya lives a very active life, works out, does yoga and runs marathons. Mayas Musings will feature her take on easy home-prepared meals and dishes. - Ed.

M AYA S M U S I N G

Time To Rise

60 | www. thefoodiemag.com Twitter: @maya _ aldy

photographs by HIMAWAN SUTANTO

M AYA S M U S I N G


M AYA S M U S I N G

One of the things I miss most about living in New York has always been the gorgeous fleshly baked breads. My favorite place was the Sullivan Street Bakery owned by Jim Lahey. Everyday on my way to work, I would walk passed the bakery and would be mesmerized by the smells of the freshly baked bread wafting through the air. I always had to succumb and buy something from them. One of Jims breads which I quite fancied was this no knead country rustic bread. The bread was fragrant, had a nice crust and was very delicious, and quite popular. As I did my own research, I discovered that it was fairly easy to do and didnt need any special equipment. I tried it at home and viola! It was the very first bread I learned to bake.

Since moving back to Indonesia, to satiate my cravings for crusty breads, Ive started to bake my own. The recipe I am passing on to you is one of my easiest, it doesnt need any special equipment except for a dutch oven or a ceramic covered casserole in which we bake the bread in. Baking the bread in the casserole gives it that thick and crunchy crust, which I love so much. As this is a basic recipe, once you have done it a few times, you can always customize it on your own. You can add walnuts, pecans and other nuts and even some dried fruit to it. The bread is great eaten on its own but is also goes well with some churned honey-butter, which we serve at Otel Lobby or with some mousses or pate. It is also perfect for sandwiches because of its density and again, the thick crust!

Happy baking!

Love,


M AYA S M U S I N G

RECIPE 3 cups All-purpose flour 1/2 tsp Dry yeast 1 1/4 tsp Salt 1 1/3 cup Water (room temperature) Optional Replace 3/4 cup of the All-Purpose Flour with Wheat flour

EQUIPMENTS Oven with temperature control Dutch oven (braadpan) Measuring spoons and cups Glass or stainless steel mixing bowls

STEPS Put all the ingredients into a mixing bowl. Mix the ingredients by hand for around 5

minutes to thicken the dough. Dont be afraid to add water if needed to keep it a bit moist.

Keep the dough at least about 12-18 hours inside the bowl but wrapped with a damp towel or plastic wrap. Store away from sunlight, it in the coolest corner of your kitchen.

After the dough has risen, it is time to knead and fold. Flour your kitchen coun-ter or table. Gently let move the dough from the bowl and flatten it out on your surface.

Shape the dough so it has four corners and dust it with flour.

Wrap the dough like an envelope by using the four corners and flip the seam down

OPTIONAL: Dust a bit of wheat flour to make it more colourful after it is baked baked.

Dust a kitchen towel with flour and wrap the dough inside. Rest it for about 30-45 minutes.

While at it, set the oven at 225OC and heat the empty Dutch oven inside for around 30 minutes.

After 30 minutes of heating, the dough should also be ready as well. Put the dough inside the Dutch oven while its hot. You want it hot so that the Dutch oven will create some steam during the baking process that helps the dough to get the crusty texture.

Bake it for 30 minutes at 225OC with the lid on.

Take the lid off, lower the temperature to 200OC and bake for another 15-20 minutes. Dont worry about the color, a dark crust would be okay.

Take it out from the oven and rest the bread for around 20 minutes before you cut it.

Enjoy the bread while its warm!

MAKE YOUR OWN BUTTERWhisk fresh heavy cream vigorously or use an electric mixer. Once the cream has broken down into butter, add some honey and continue to mix until the honey is well incorporated.


T R I E D A N D T E S T E D


Festive Christmas TurkeyNothing screams out Christmas than a nice golden roast turkey. Very traditional and festive, it is a highlight of any Christmas meal.

by RIAN FARISAphotographs by HIMAWAN SUTANTO

SHANGRI-LA HOTEL JAKARTA | Kota BNI, Jalan Jend. Sudirman Kav. 1 Jakarta | +62 21 2922 9999 www.shangri-la.com/jakarta/shangrila | @ShangriLaJKT



Executive chef Mark Mulder of the Shangri-La Jakarta shares with us a relatively easy recipe you can do at home, complete with stuffing, cranberry sauce and giblet gravy.

A word of advice from Chef Mark: Its not difficult. Just be organized and keep an eye on everything, especially the ovens temperature. Chef Mark assures all the foodies out there not to worry about venturing into this classic recipe.



TRADITIONAL CHRISTMAS TURKEY With cranberry sauce, giblet gravy and chestnut stuffingServes 20 people

INGREDIENTS: Whole turkey - 1 piece, about 6kg each

For the brine: 10 liters Water 50 grams Salt 100 grams Sugar 10 pcs Bay leaf 1 tbsp Black peppercorn 1 stick Cinnamon stick

For the giblet gravy: All giblets Heart, liver and kidneys from the turkey 100 grams Onion 50 grams Garlic 750 ml Red wine 2 liters Chicken or turkey gravy

For the cranberry sauce: 1 can Cranberry jelly 2 liter Veal jus

For the stuffing: 200 grams Carrots 200 grams Leeks 200 grams Celery stick 200 grams White onion 1 kg White bread 1 liter Milk 8 pcs Fresh eggs 120 grams Raisins 200 grams Chestnuts 100 grams Dried prune 400 grams Chicken liver 40 grams Assorted herbs To taste Salt To taste Pepper

STEPSFor the giblet gravy: Prepare the brine 2 days in advance by

bringing the water to a boil and adding all the other ingredients. As soon as the sugar and salt is dissolved let the brine cool down in the fridge. Do not boil the brine.

Remove the giblets from the turkey and keep aside. Rinse the turkey under cold running water to remove any remaining blood from inside the turkey.

Place the turkey in the brine and place a weight on it so it is fully submerged. Let it marinate in the fridge for at least 24 hours.

To cook the turkey, take it out from the brine and let it drain for a few minutes. Pat

the bird dry with paper tissue. You dont need to season it anymore as the salt from the brine has marinated the turkey all the way through.

Place it in the oven at 160OC until the bird is golden brown and the red indicator pops up. The indicator is a red coloured plastic arrow which is inserted in the turkeys breast by the manufacturer. When the turkey is fully cooked it pops up by itself.

For the giblet gravy: Chop the onion and garlic finely and

sweat in some olive oil. Add the giblet and sautee until the

giblets are fully cooked. Take the giblets out from the pan and

deglaze the pan with red wine. Reduce the wine until 1/3rd is remaining.

While the wine is reducing, cut the giblets in fine cubes and add to the wine at the last minute.

Add the gravy and let the sauce gently simmer for about 20 minutes. You can thicken the sauce with some roux or cornstarch if needed.

For the cranberry sauce: Gently melt the cranberry jelly in a

saucepan and add the veal stock. Let the sauce simmer to reduce it a little bit.

Season with some salt and pepper.

For the stuffing: Cut the carrot, leek, celery, onion,

chest nuts and prunes in small cubes. Sautee the vegetables (except the prunes and chest nuts) in some butter until tender and season with some salt and pepper.

Cut the bread in large cubes (including the crust) and keep on the side.

Sautee the chicken liver in butter and once they are cooked cut them in small cubes.

Combine all the bread cubes, vegetables, chest nuts, prunes, chicken liver and herbs in a large bowl. Add the eggs to the mixture and gently massage it together, add the milk little by little until you have a soft dough.

If you make it in a roll it should be slightly firmer to facilitate the shaping. If you bake it in an oven dish it can be softer to facilitate easy scooping.

To make the roll, lay a single layer of cling film on the table and place the stuffing mixture from left to right near the bottom end of the cling film. Carefully shape it in a log shape and roll it tight in the cling film. Then take both ends and roll the roll a few times.


S T U F F O F L E G E N D S



William Wongso The Reluctant Masterby RIAN FARISAphotographs by DENNIE BENEDICT

It took quite a while to find the office of Indonesias busiest culinary luminary deep inside the narrow maze of streets around Melawai. Finding the office was one thing, but getting him to stay put for an interview was the challenge. This man is busy. Luckily, we were able to pin him down just before he left for a tour of the States.

I skipped the first floor of the building which seemed to be some sort of kitchen with huge ovens and bustling activity inside. Upstairs I entered an office filled with people drowned in discussions, then the secretary led me to The Man. There, I found William Wongso sitting behind a huge Tasmanian ancient oak meeting table. Behind him, was a framed image of himself, with the word tradition inscribed on it. This was going to be a good interview, I thought to myself.

Hi Rian, how are you? I hope you dont

mind that there will be a small cooking activity over there shortly, he greeted me while pointing to the kitchen just beside the meeting room. Im currently devising a menu for my clients restaurant, he said while preparing me an espresso to jumpstart our morning conversation.

Beginning with a quick flashback of his long-standing career, William says, What you did in the beginning does not always relate with your dream career. It is well known that William was a university drop out and has survived through times of trial and tribulation in search for his real calling. He paused to light a cigar and continued, You know, I used to be involved in a printing business, worked in advertising agencies and even became a radio announcer. Until finally I realized that food had always been something I was in awe with, thanks to my father.

He came from mainland China, but he had this cosmopolitan palate that encouraged our family to be adventurous with food, he paused to suck on his cigar and proceed, Thats why I decided to develop new hobbies of food tasting and learning more about produce mostly from traditional markets.

With all the experience working in different fields, my confidence quickly grew and I grew familiar with public speaking and face-to-face communication. My father who was a film producer and a field photographer, he taught me a thing or two about his trade also, he reminisced.

With his love of photography, William has been able to capture great images from his travels around the globe. It is almost impossible to miss Williams daily photo uploads to Instagram or his tweets about his epic foodie saga. Come to think



of it, perhaps I have widest collection of photos from local markets than anybody else around!, he laughed as he made the realization.

For many years now, William has been championing local cuisine through events and his knowledge of the food & beverage industry. Recently, with support from the Ministry of Tourism & Creative Economy, together with comrades Bondan Winarno and Vindex Tengker, William has helped identify the 30 Iconic Indonesian Traditional dishes. This will serve as a stepping stone to further introduce the countrys diverse cuisine and to standardize the local curriculum for culinary and tourism schools.

Its such a shame that because of the Western curriculum, many Indonesian talents have forgotten their roots and choose to excel in French or Italian cuisine instead. But through this effort, we will define our national cuisine and empower people to appreciate their roots more, he said convincingly. With Williams encouragement, Indonesian dishes are now regularly served in state dinners or even at international meetings like APEC which was held in Bali very recently. You can see the passion in his eyes as he shares his culinary advocacy with me.

Before we parted, William shared his words of wisdom regarding what one should expect when entering the culinary field. If you experience failure, it doesnt mean that its a complete failure. Theres 95% of mortality rate in this business and you need to be creative all the time. William admitted that he has not worked in restaurants recently, unlike in the past. He now enjoys his time sharing his experiences with everyone, especially with younger chefs. But he quickly interjects that he may have a project in Bali opening up soon.

Last but not the least, he conveyed an important message to all of us, One thing that you have to remember solemnly - do not forget your roots. One day, you will be one of those who represent the country and the future of our national cuisine might be in your hands. Words of wisdom from the legend.


www. thefoodiemag.com | 71Twitter/Instagram: @williamwongso

PA N T RY 10 1


Christmas Herbs and Spicesby RIAN FARISA

One of the essential components of the classic trio bay leaf, parsley, and

thyme. Bay leaf doesnt lose its flavor over time but on the

contrary, it gains more when dried. Often used for soups,

stews, or braises.

Sold ground as powder or originally as sticks. In Indonesian it is called kayu

manis as it has a unique sweetness and fragrance. Suitable as flavorings for

sweets and beverages while also used widely used for savory dishes in the

Middle East.

Native of East Asia and famously used as one of the essentials in Chinese five-spice powder and enhances meat flavor. Used more in the West for the production of liquors while in Asia, people are using it for cooking and medicinal uses.

Originally used for incense during ancient times, thyme has become one of the common components of bouquet garni. The fresh thyme is more flavorful than the dried one and gives a complex taste of mint, lemon, or even similar to oregano.

CINNAMON

THYME

BAY LEAF

STAR ANISE

PA N T RY 10 1


Herbs and spices play a huge role in our appreciation of flavor. Not only do they lend flavor, they also add to the aroma to our dishes. We list down a few of the most common herbs and spices which will be brightening up your Christmas meals.

Slightly sweet, very floral, and often made into syrup. Lavender is also used for cake decorations as well as dressings for salad. Its abundant nectar from the flowers creates high quality honey.

Native of the Spice Islands of the eastern part of Indonesia. Nutmeg has a spicy flavor and aroma used in both sweet and savory cooking. Now it has been traditionally used in many cuisines such as Indonesian, Japanese, Indian, Middle Eastern, and as far as European.

A strong flavored herb that goes well with lamb or beef, and often used in stuffing or marinades. Its versatility is much loved for culinary uses and even some use it for medicinal use. It is believed that rosemary improves memory quality.

Slightly bitter, strongly aromatic, and can withstand long cooking times without losing its flavor. Sage is used in small quantities for a range of dishes including meats, stuffing, soups, casseroles, sauces, and dressings.

SAGEROSEMARY

LAVENDER NUTMEG

W H AT C H E F E AT S

ROADSIDE WONDER


What better way to end a long hard day, than to go out for a good meal. Known for his cooking shows on a national TV network, Chef Odie Djamil took time out from his busy schedule and gladly brought The Foodie Magazine to his favorite spot for comfort food. Off we went to Kemang and found Warung Mbak Heni, Chef Odies favourite hawker stall.

Its always the same formula for me. Rice, telur dadar (omelette), teri kacang (stir-fried anchovies with peanuts), and sliced cuttlefish, said Odie with a big smile. Although these typical Central Javanese dishes are by default already spicy, Odie added a spoonful of sambal hijau (green chili sambal) for more flavour! Well, you know what they say about eating spicy food Im sweaty but Im happy!, exclaimed the happy chef.

At Warung Mbak Heni, unless you have your own formula like Odie, expect to experience difficulty in choosing what to eat because of the bountiful options to choose from. You can find gudeg, krecek, opor, fried noodles, stir-fry bean sprouts, shrimps, chicken intestines balado and other colourful Javanese dishes.

In between mouthfuls, Odie said: Aside from this one, I also enjoy the bakso (meatballs) Malik from around Pancoran because they serve it with peyek (crackers with peanuts, sometimes added with anchovies). Its not for everyone, but Ive loved it ever since I was a kid, he said sentimentally. After that line, he was quiet. He doesnt talk with his mouth full!

by RIAN FARISAphotographs by DENNIE BENEDICT

WARUNG MBAK HENI | Jalan Kemang (in front of La Codefin) - Jakarta

The Foodie Magazine - December 2013

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Transcript of The Foodie Magazine - December 2013