The Eye Writer

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http://interlab.ycam.jp/projects/labact/eye-tracking-study/how-to- make-eyewriter2 THE EYE WRITER In this tutorial, I plan to explain several concepts not covered in http://www.instructables.com/id/The-EyeWriter-20/ for the building of the Eyewriter 2.0. Also, I will try to help you reduce your budget (some stuff like the 7.5 AC supplier can be done with old cellphone charger etc) First of all, if you nave poor/no knowledge in electronics, try to learn about transistors, capacitors, resistances, and how they react under constant current/voltage sources. It may be helpful not only to build the circuit for the Eyewriter, but it can also prevent harm to your Arduino micro-controller, your camera, and even yourself. Needless to say, always be carfeul when soldering cables. Here is a video about proper soldering...http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_NU2ruzyc4 Here, I will go Again explain how to build the Eyewriter in a more detailed way,as well as using the photos I used when building it myself. *(Disclaimer: I built this using a Macintosh computer. If you have any questions related to windows, please PM me) 1)Overview The Eyewriter was built by OpenFrameworks, Grafitty Research Lab, Free art and Technology Lab, and last but not least, Yamaguchi Intercam lab. ( I live in Japan, and they where the ones helping me out. Also, they have their own tutorial http://interlab.ycam.jp/projects/labact/eye-tracking- study/how-to-make-eyewriter2 . If you need help with Japanese translation PM me) The purpose of the Eyewriter if what you want it to be. Be creative and support Open source and share your Ideas :) 2) Part list Follow the list on the Istructables website http://www.instructables.com/id/The-EyeWriter-20/step2/part s-list/ as a reference to buy the parts to build the Eyewriter. However…

Transcript of The Eye Writer

Page 1: The Eye Writer

http://interlab.ycam.jp/projects/labact/eye-tracking-study/how-to-make-eyewriter2

THE EYE WRITER

In this tutorial, I plan to explain several concepts not covered in http://www.instructables.com/id/The-EyeWriter-20/for the building of the Eyewriter 2.0. Also, I will try to help you reduce your budget (some stuff like the 7.5 AC supplier can be done with old cellphone charger etc)

First of all, if you nave poor/no knowledge in electronics, try to learn about transistors, capacitors, resistances, and how they react under constant current/voltage sources. It may be helpful not only to build the circuit for the Eyewriter, but it can also prevent harm to your Arduino micro-controller, your camera, and even yourself. Needless to say, always be carfeul when soldering cables.

Here is a video about proper soldering...http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_NU2ruzyc4

Here, I will go Again explain how to build the Eyewriter in a more detailed way,as well as using the photos I used when building it myself. *(Disclaimer: I built this using a Macintosh computer. If you have any questions related to windows, please PM me)

1)Overview

The Eyewriter was built by OpenFrameworks, Grafitty Research Lab, Free art and Technology Lab, and last but not least, Yamaguchi Intercam lab. ( I live in Japan, and they where the ones helping me out. Also, they have their own tutorial http://interlab.ycam.jp/projects/labact/eye-tracking-study/how-to-make-eyewriter2. If you need help with Japanese translation PM me)The purpose of the Eyewriter if what you want it to be. Be creative and support Open source and share your Ideas :)

2) Part list

Follow the list on the Istructables website http://www.instructables.com/id/The-EyeWriter-20/step2/parts-list/ as a reference to buy the parts to build the Eyewriter.

However…

There are some things to Explain if THE EXACT PARTS LISTED ARE NOT AVAILABLE!

You can use any transistor as long as is an N-type transistor. (P-type work the other way around.)

You can use and 3-port regulator as log as is positive-fixed and has a current output of 1A. (check the data-sheets)

The IR filters' number may vary depending on the maker and country.( For example, 87 is 78 here in Japan. Oh Japan…)

The potentiometer doesn't has to be 25Ohm as long as it is a 3W one. (I used a 30Ohm potentiometer, and calibration goes fine)

You don't need circular PCB boards if you have access to a drill press and some sand paper. Look!

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Last. I will make a tutorial about how to make a 7.5V output out of a 10V of higher regulator. (7.5V is hard to find, and probably you have old adaptors stored up somewhere! "One mans trash is another mans treasure")

Another last!!! I managed to remove the PSEye camera's lens holder with a small amount of acetone remover. You can use it if you don't live in America, because the M12 lens holder is very expensive for overseas. Be cautious, any it may work. 

3)Software

Can you see me taking the picture? thats the closest i'll get  to taking  mirror pictures lol.

Then again, This tutorial goes along with the original one in Instructables.com Use it as a reference. First, download 

A. Integrated Development Environment (IDE)

An integrated development environment (IDE) is a software application that provides comprehensive facilities to computer programmers for software development.

Download and install an Integrated Development Environment (IDE) to run openFrameworks if necessary.http://www.openframeworks.cc/setup

B. openFrameworks

Openframeworks is a c++ library designed to assist the creative process by providing a simple and intuitive framework for experimentation.

Download and install openFrameworks if necessary.http://www.openframeworks.cc/download

C. EyeWriter GitHub

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GitHub is a web-based hosting service for projects that use the Git revision control system. It is a platform that allows people to exchange and share code.

Visit the EyeWriter source page on GitHub.http://github.com/eyewriter/eyewriter/tree/remoteEyetracker

D. Macam

Download the Macam driver from SourceForge. http://sourceforge.net/projects/webcam-osx/files/cvs-build/2009-09-25/macam-cvs-build-2009-09-25.zip/download 

After download is complete, unzip the file and place the macam.component file into your hard drive s /Library/Quicktime/ folder.

E. Arduino Arduino is a tool for the design and development of

embedded computer systems, consisting of a simple open hardware design for a single-board microcontroller, with embedded I/O support and a standard programming language 

Download and install the Arduino software. http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Software 

Follow the Getting Started tips if you're unfamiliar with the Arduino environment.http://arduino.cc/en/Guide/HomePage

4)Load the Arduino SketchHere I will explain a few things Instructables doesn't. There are many kinds of Arduino, and other Micro-controllers that have a built-in Arduino. For Example MakeyMakey http://www.makeymakey.com/ . When Compiling the code, remember to chose the right BOARD and SERIAL PORT under the Tools option. If you actually read the code, you will see you can change the glint pins for the LEDs, Just change 11/12 to the numbers that suit your arduino board. (I used Arduino Leonardo and Uno)

Load the Arduino EyeWriter sketch "apps/eyewriter-xxxxxxx/eyeWriterTracker/StrobeEye/StrobeEye.pde" in the Arduino IDE software. This needs to be done in order that the eyewritter software can recognize the hardware.

With your Arduino board connected, upload the sketch to your board. Follow the Getting Started tips if you're unfamiliar with the Arduino environment.http://arduino.cc/en/Guide/HomePage

You want to use other cameras beside the PsOne. Fine, I will later post a list with cameras that have a Vsync port for the LEDs glint. However, no one has made a tutorial for hacking them, so you are on your own. I will try to make one in the near future.

5) Hardware:Power adapter

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As I said before, why not try to make your own adaptor. All you need is An old adaptor over 10V A Lm317 variable regulator. (You can get it anywhere! For

those who don't know, it's used to change the input voltage into the one you want.

Two resistors. Lets make R1 3.3KOhms and R2 680. A 0.1and 1 Micro Farad capacitor *(Optional, as you can

see they are both connected to the ground. They are used to stabilize the current.)

Built the circuit and voila! You got yourself a stable 7.5 V output. Then, follow the instructables tutorial for the circuit. You can use any resistors. There is a formula to decipher which ones you need to get a desires output voltage. You can also use the following link to make the calculation for you.http://www.electronics-lab.com/articles/LM317/

6) Hardware:LEDWhen you have your PCB boards ready, its time to do some soldiering.

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Once you finish that, make sure your all your LED's are working properly. You can either check with a multimeter, or connect the positive side (red cable) to the 7.5V source, and the negative side (black) to 6 Ohm(3watt) and Ground. This part might take and hour or so, so be patient. Also try not to breathe all that smoke from the led while soldiering, its bad for you.

7)   Hardware:The circuit Here I will put a design I  did for the Eyewriter circuit. I recommend doing it in a breadboard at first, stuff always goes wrong. Even if it does, don't panic. Always remember not to make shorts, or you could burn up the regulators and transistors. If you don't have a power supply that warns you if the voltage is flowing properly or not, just make sure the semiconductors are not hot. The Instuctables circuit design has flaws! For example, The regulator output should connected to the Arduino 5V port and not the power supply. The whole reason we use a regulator is to regulate the 7.5V into 5V which the Arduino can work with. Be careful following that circuit image (Instructables)  because you could burn your board.

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Remember the LEDs wont flicker until you have run MACAM or the Eyewriter software.

http://www.calctool.org/CALC/eng/electronics

Publicado 7th February 2013 por 日光  

9  Ver comentarios

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1.

Konstantin Aizenberg 19 de febrero de 2013, 9:19

hello Nicolas!

Can you please advise if I can use Creative Socialize 1080hd webcam instead of PS eye?Unfortunately I don't know where is V-sync pin at that camera.Perhaps it is possible to build an independent strobe effect, and to set it manually for appropriate frequency?

What do you think?

thank you in advance!Kostya

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2.

Govind Prajapati 26 de febrero de 2013, 7:23

Hello Nicolas !!

When will you upload the 2nd part of the Eyewriter ?? from where i can get the software and the codes ??i have completed the Hardware part but now my paths are blocked by this software stuff . please help me . it will be highly appreciable if you guide me Via E-mail. my Email ID is [email protected] . please reply as soon as possible .

RegardsGovind Prajapati Btech. 4th year.

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3.

mohamed amir 5 de marzo de 2013, 13:26

When will be part 2 released ? can't wait !!

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4.

Fabio Roagna 3 de mayo de 2013, 6:50

Hi, thanks for this tutorial, I've some questions about the final bradbord part, like which other potentiometer use because I'm italian and here there aren't 3w potentiometer..If you can write to me via mail, my is [email protected], i wait your reply, thanks :)

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5.

Bilal Khan 13 de abril de 2014, 0:13

Hello, I have done all the hardware but can u help me out by sending the full circuit diagram as my ir glints are not working in the full circuit , it works fine individual

ResponderRespuestas

1.

日光 18 de abril de 2014, 3:47

Sure Bilal, but first, can you tell me what king of micro controller are you using? Depending on the gates you connect the PS1 camera and the LEDs, the signal changes. Also, try working with an oscilloscope to check the input and output signals are the same!!!

Cheers

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6.

Facundo J Cancino 22 de mayo de 2014, 23:08

wonderful! just one question. i am trying to build one, but here in my country (argentina) i cant find the mosfets that the part list says... what do i have to consider for choosing a replacement? would an IRFZ44 work? and a IRFP054? these are the datasheets: http://www.vishay.com/docs/91291/91291.pdfhttp://www.vishay.com/docs/91200/sihfp054.pdf

you can answer to my mail if you prefer so: [email protected]

thanks :))

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7.

日光 23 de mayo de 2014, 2:34

Hola Facundo. Gracias por visitar la pagina, espero que te haya servido de referencia en algo! 

Con respecto a los MOSFET, puedes utilizar cualquiera que sea tipo 'n'. De los que me mostraste el IRFZ44 parece que funcionaría bien. Te recomiendo que conectes capasitadores a

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las terminales que van a tierra para que haya menos ruido en la señal! Si tienes problemas para conseguir alguna parte porfavor escribeme en el blog!

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8.

ramna bilal 8 de agosto de 2014, 23:15

please help me regarding the hardware when i turn the software leds turns on full bright and does not flicker and when i bring out arduino pin 3 lleds start flashing plese help me in this regard

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