The British Larder Cookbook

January

british_larder_spreads:game 20/02/2012 17:52

January

british_larder_spreads:game 20/02/2012 17:52 Page 2

Fresh truffle is a true seasonal gem, agift from Mother Nature. Its pungentsmell fills a room with fragrance like noother. This complex fungus is aseasonal prized ingredient and one thatmost chefs dream of to work with. Asit’s such a complex and powerful taste,simplicity is required when usingtruffles in your cooking. Their tastelends itself to being paired with basicingredients such as eggs and rice.Goose eggs, duck eggs, quail’s eggs andhen’s eggs are readily available and onecan have plenty of fun choosingdifferent eggs for different dishes. Eggsare so versatile and there are manydifferent ways to cook an egg – for thisrecipe, the eggs are simply poached.

Serves 4 as a starter or light lunch

200g dried white beans (such as haricotbeans), soaked overnight in cold water

100ml double cream1 teaspoon truffle oil100g kale, stalks removed2 cloves garlic, crushed1 tablespoon toasted pine nuts20g finely grated fresh Parmesancheese

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard60ml rapeseed oiljuice of 1 lemon500g salsify3 tablespoons unsalted butter1 large onion, sliced200g Desiree potatoes1 teaspoon chopped fresh chervil1 tablespoon white wine vinegar4 duck eggssea salt and freshly cracked blackpepper

1 small fresh black truffle and baby ormini/micro salad leaves, to serve

Make the white bean purée. Rinse thesoaked white beans in fresh cold waterand drain, then place the beans in asaucepan. Cover with plenty of coldwater and bring up to a gentle simmer,then cook, uncovered, for 30–40minutes or until soft (don’t add any saltto the water as this will toughen theskins). Once cooked, drain well, thenplace in a blender with the cream andblend until smooth. Season to tastewith salt and pepper, then add thetruffle oil. Keep warm, or if making inadvance, cool, then chill in the fridgeovernight and reheat before serving.

Next, make the kale pesto. Cook thekale in a pan of boiling water for 1–2minutes or until very soft, then drainwell. Put the kale into a blender withhalf of the garlic, the pine nuts,Parmesan cheese, mustard, rapeseedoil and salt and pepper and blendtogether until smooth. Taste and adjustthe seasoning, if necessary. If the pestois a bit thick, add an extra dash ofrapeseed oil. Transfer to a bowl, thencover and chill until needed.

For the rösti, fill a bowl with cold waterand add half of the lemon juice. Peelthe salsify, then dip it into the bowl ofacidulated water (to preventbrowning), then drain and rinse. Cutthe salsify into 5–7cm batons, place itin a saucepan, cover with cold water,then add salt and the remaining lemonjuice. Bring to the boil and simmer for8–10 minutes or until tender. Drain,then finely slice 200g of the cookedsalsify, and keep the rest for garnishingthe plates.

Melt 1 tablespoon of butter in a pan andsauté the onion and the remaininggarlic, with salt and pepper added, for5–6 minutes or until the onion iscooked and golden. Using a slotted

spoon, transfer the cooked onions to abowl. Coarsely grate the peeledpotatoes and add to the onions,together with the finely sliced cookedsalsify, the chervil and salt and pepper.

Heat another tablespoon of butter in alarge, non-stick frying pan and once thebutter is foaming, using half of thepotato rösti mixture, spoon 4 separatelarge spoonfuls of the mixture into thepan, keeping each spoonful separate, tomake 4 individual rösti. Cook for about5 minutes or until golden brown on oneside, then flip them over and cook theother side for a further 5 minutes or sountil golden brown. If the rösti arecolouring a bit too quickly, reduce theheat to very low to ensure they are fullycooked. Drain the rösti on kitchenpaper, then transfer to a plate and keepwarm. Repeat with the remainingpotato mixture to make 8 rösti in total.

Just before serving, poach the eggs. Filla large, deep saucepan with water, addthe white wine vinegar and bring to theboil. Crack the eggs into 4 individualcups. Once the water is gently boiling,carefully slide the eggs into the boilingwater, one at a time, using a metalspoon to gently turn each egg over 2 or3 times to ‘wrap’ the white around theyolk, and poach until the whites are setand the yolks are still soft (about 3–4minutes). Carefully remove thepoached eggs using a slotted spoon.

Meanwhile, melt the remaining butterin a pan and sauté the reserved salsifybatons, with salt and pepper added, for2–3 minutes or until golden brown,stirring frequently. Drain on kitchenpaper. Gently reheat the white beanpurée in a small pan until piping hot.

Salsify and Black Truffle Rösti with Duck Eggs

4 5

JanuaryThe British Larder


Fresh truffle is a true seasonal gem, agift from Mother Nature. Its pungentsmell fills a room with fragrance like noother. This complex fungus is aseasonal prized ingredient and one thatmost chefs dream of to work with. Asit’s such a complex and powerful taste,simplicity is required when usingtruffles in your cooking. Their tastelends itself to being paired with basicingredients such as eggs and rice.Goose eggs, duck eggs, quail’s eggs andhen’s eggs are readily available and onecan have plenty of fun choosingdifferent eggs for different dishes. Eggsare so versatile and there are manydifferent ways to cook an egg – for thisrecipe, the eggs are simply poached.


200g dried white beans (such as haricotbeans), soaked overnight in cold water

100ml double cream1 teaspoon truffle oil100g kale, stalks removed2 cloves garlic, crushed1 tablespoon toasted pine nuts20g finely grated fresh Parmesancheese

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard60ml rapeseed oiljuice of 1 lemon500g salsify3 tablespoons unsalted butter1 large onion, sliced200g Desiree potatoes1 teaspoon chopped fresh chervil1 tablespoon white wine vinegar4 duck eggssea salt and freshly cracked blackpepper

1 small fresh black truffle and baby ormini/micro salad leaves, to serve

Make the white bean purée. Rinse thesoaked white beans in fresh cold waterand drain, then place the beans in asaucepan. Cover with plenty of coldwater and bring up to a gentle simmer,then cook, uncovered, for 30–40minutes or until soft (don’t add any saltto the water as this will toughen theskins). Once cooked, drain well, thenplace in a blender with the cream andblend until smooth. Season to tastewith salt and pepper, then add thetruffle oil. Keep warm, or if making inadvance, cool, then chill in the fridgeovernight and reheat before serving.

Next, make the kale pesto. Cook thekale in a pan of boiling water for 1–2minutes or until very soft, then drainwell. Put the kale into a blender withhalf of the garlic, the pine nuts,Parmesan cheese, mustard, rapeseedoil and salt and pepper and blendtogether until smooth. Taste and adjustthe seasoning, if necessary. If the pestois a bit thick, add an extra dash ofrapeseed oil. Transfer to a bowl, thencover and chill until needed.

For the rösti, fill a bowl with cold waterand add half of the lemon juice. Peelthe salsify, then dip it into the bowl ofacidulated water (to preventbrowning), then drain and rinse. Cutthe salsify into 5–7cm batons, place itin a saucepan, cover with cold water,then add salt and the remaining lemonjuice. Bring to the boil and simmer for8–10 minutes or until tender. Drain,then finely slice 200g of the cookedsalsify, and keep the rest for garnishingthe plates.

Melt 1 tablespoon of butter in a pan andsauté the onion and the remaininggarlic, with salt and pepper added, for5–6 minutes or until the onion iscooked and golden. Using a slotted

spoon, transfer the cooked onions to abowl. Coarsely grate the peeledpotatoes and add to the onions,together with the finely sliced cookedsalsify, the chervil and salt and pepper.

Heat another tablespoon of butter in alarge, non-stick frying pan and once thebutter is foaming, using half of thepotato rösti mixture, spoon 4 separatelarge spoonfuls of the mixture into thepan, keeping each spoonful separate, tomake 4 individual rösti. Cook for about5 minutes or until golden brown on oneside, then flip them over and cook theother side for a further 5 minutes or sountil golden brown. If the rösti arecolouring a bit too quickly, reduce theheat to very low to ensure they are fullycooked. Drain the rösti on kitchenpaper, then transfer to a plate and keepwarm. Repeat with the remainingpotato mixture to make 8 rösti in total.

Just before serving, poach the eggs. Filla large, deep saucepan with water, addthe white wine vinegar and bring to theboil. Crack the eggs into 4 individualcups. Once the water is gently boiling,carefully slide the eggs into the boilingwater, one at a time, using a metalspoon to gently turn each egg over 2 or3 times to ‘wrap’ the white around theyolk, and poach until the whites are setand the yolks are still soft (about 3–4minutes). Carefully remove thepoached eggs using a slotted spoon.

Meanwhile, melt the remaining butterin a pan and sauté the reserved salsifybatons, with salt and pepper added, for2–3 minutes or until golden brown,stirring frequently. Drain on kitchenpaper. Gently reheat the white beanpurée in a small pan until piping hot.

Salsify and Black Truffle Rösti with Duck Eggs

4 5



A cup of sunchoke soup is enough tokiss the winter blues away. This recipeis dedicated to a dear friend of mine,Abigail from Sotby in Lincolnshire. Herfather, Mr Lawson, is a farmer whogrows Jerusalem artichokes as part of aconservation project on his farm. Iregularly receive a bag filled withSotby’s ‘chokes and I have made manytasty recipes with them.

As Jerusalem artichokes have a robustand strong flavour, they pair easily withother robust flavours, such as garlic. Byroasting the garlic in the oven until softand sweet, it adds a natural sweetnessand intensity to the soup. My theory isthat this soup tastes even better thefollowing day, so why not make adouble batch to test my theory?!


1⁄2 bulb of garlic, cut in half widthways1 teaspoon soft light brown sugar500g Jerusalem artichokes1 tablespoon unsalted butter1 banana shallot, sliced50ml brandy, Madeira or white wine1.2 litres good quality vegetable orwhite chicken stock

sea salt and freshly cracked blackpepper

fresh thyme leaves and a drizzle ofrapeseed oil, to garnish

Preheat the oven to 180°C/Gas Mark 4.Place the garlic halves on a piece offoil, season the cut-sides with salt andpepper, then sprinkle over the sugarand 1 tablespoon of water. Wrap thegarlic loosely, transfer to a baking trayand roast in the oven for 25–35 minutes– the garlic will soften, become goldenin colour and develop a sweet taste.Remove from the oven and set aside tocool, then squeeze the soft garlic pulpout of the skins.

Peel and slice the Jerusalemartichokes. Melt the butter in a largesaucepan and once the butter starts tofoam, add the shallot, garlic pulp andJerusalem artichokes, together with alittle salt and pepper. Sauté over a lowheat for 10–12 minutes or until goldenbrown – the darker the colour of theartichokes and onions, the moreintense the flavour will be.

Pour the brandy into the pan and let itbubble, stirring and scraping the baseof the pan with a wooden spoon todeglaze it. Cook until the caramelisedbits dissolve and the brandy is reducedto a coating syrup. Add the stock andbring slowly to the boil, then cover andsimmer gently for 25–30 minutes oruntil the artichokes are very tender andthe soup is thick and a rich, deepcolour.

Carefully transfer the soup to a blenderand purée until very smooth. Return tothe pan and reheat gently, then tasteand adjust the seasoning, if necessary.

Serve hot in bowls, garnished withthyme leaves and a drizzle of rapeseedoil. Serve with plenty of fresh crustybread.

Cook’s NotesEven though this soup is silky andcreamy, it does not contain any creamand therefore is the perfect low-fatrecipe. However, if you would like totame the garlic flavour slightly, stir in alittle single cream or crème fraîche, justbefore serving.

You may like to garnish this soupwith Jerusalem Artichoke Crisps. See Pan-Roasted Cod withJerusalem Artichokes recipe onpage XX for details on how to makethese crisps.

Jerusalem Artichoke and Roasted Garlic Soup

7

January


A cup of sunchoke soup is enough tokiss the winter blues away. This recipeis dedicated to a dear friend of mine,Abigail from Sotby in Lincolnshire. Herfather, Mr Lawson, is a farmer whogrows Jerusalem artichokes as part of aconservation project on his farm. Iregularly receive a bag filled withSotby’s ‘chokes and I have made manytasty recipes with them.

As Jerusalem artichokes have a robustand strong flavour, they pair easily withother robust flavours, such as garlic. Byroasting the garlic in the oven until softand sweet, it adds a natural sweetnessand intensity to the soup. My theory isthat this soup tastes even better thefollowing day, so why not make adouble batch to test my theory?!


1⁄2 bulb of garlic, cut in half widthways1 teaspoon soft light brown sugar500g Jerusalem artichokes1 tablespoon unsalted butter1 banana shallot, sliced50ml brandy, Madeira or white wine1.2 litres good quality vegetable orwhite chicken stock


fresh thyme leaves and a drizzle ofrapeseed oil, to garnish

Preheat the oven to 180°C/Gas Mark 4.Place the garlic halves on a piece offoil, season the cut-sides with salt andpepper, then sprinkle over the sugarand 1 tablespoon of water. Wrap thegarlic loosely, transfer to a baking trayand roast in the oven for 25–35 minutes– the garlic will soften, become goldenin colour and develop a sweet taste.Remove from the oven and set aside tocool, then squeeze the soft garlic pulpout of the skins.

Peel and slice the Jerusalemartichokes. Melt the butter in a largesaucepan and once the butter starts tofoam, add the shallot, garlic pulp andJerusalem artichokes, together with alittle salt and pepper. Sauté over a lowheat for 10–12 minutes or until goldenbrown – the darker the colour of theartichokes and onions, the moreintense the flavour will be.

Pour the brandy into the pan and let itbubble, stirring and scraping the baseof the pan with a wooden spoon todeglaze it. Cook until the caramelisedbits dissolve and the brandy is reducedto a coating syrup. Add the stock andbring slowly to the boil, then cover andsimmer gently for 25–30 minutes oruntil the artichokes are very tender andthe soup is thick and a rich, deepcolour.

Carefully transfer the soup to a blenderand purée until very smooth. Return tothe pan and reheat gently, then tasteand adjust the seasoning, if necessary.

Serve hot in bowls, garnished withthyme leaves and a drizzle of rapeseedoil. Serve with plenty of fresh crustybread.

Cook’s NotesEven though this soup is silky andcreamy, it does not contain any creamand therefore is the perfect low-fatrecipe. However, if you would like totame the garlic flavour slightly, stir in alittle single cream or crème fraîche, justbefore serving.

You may like to garnish this soupwith Jerusalem Artichoke Crisps. See Pan-Roasted Cod withJerusalem Artichokes recipe onpage XX for details on how to makethese crisps.

Jerusalem Artichoke and Roasted Garlic Soup

7

January


Venison Burgers with Roasted Parsnip Straws and Beetroot and Red Onion Relish


The creation of this dish is a labour oflove, but it’s well worth all the effort.The combination of the citrusysweetness of the blood oranges and thebitter crunch of the chicory, creates theperfect accompaniment to balance therichness of the duck, especially coldduck that is turned into classicpastrami. It’s a festive plate of food,with its vibrant seasonal colours andflavours, and it is fit for a party or anyspecial occasion.


For the duck pastrami2 large duck breasts (about 170g each),with fat on

1 tablespoon coriander seeds1⁄2 teaspoon black peppercorns12 dried juniper berries25g sea salt50g soft dark brown sugar1 clove garlic, peeled1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme leaves300g long-grain white rice100ml cold water3 sprigs of fresh thyme

For the medjool date purée200g medjool dates, stones removed 1 tablespoon olive oil1 teaspoon sherry vinegarsea salt and freshly cracked blackpepper

For the Jerusalem artichoke purée300g Jerusalem artichokes20g unsalted butter50ml double cream

To serve2 heads white chicory, washed, drainedand separated into leaves

1 blood orange, peeled and segmentedfresh coriander cress

First, prepare the duck pastrami. Scorethe fat-side of the duck breasts with asharp knife, being careful not to cut allthe way through to the flesh. Removeand discard the silver skin or thinmembrane from the underside of eachbreast.

Use a pestle and mortar to crush thecoriander seeds, peppercorns, 6 of thejuniper berries, the salt, brown sugar,garlic and chopped thyme together toform a paste. Rub the paste into theduck breasts, massaging it into themeat and fat. Place the duck breasts ona plate, cover and leave to marinate inthe fridge for 12 hours or overnight, toallow the flavours to develop, beforesmoking the duck.

While the duck is marinating, put 200gof the rice into a bowl, cover with thewater and set aside at roomtemperature for 12 hours or overnight.

Meanwhile, make the blood orange andbalsamic jelly. Bring the blood orangejuice and balsamic vinegar to the boil ina pan, then boil rapidly for 6–7 minutesor until reduced to 250ml. Stir in theagar agar powder, mix well, then bringback to a simmer and cook for 1minute. Remove from the heat, pourthe hot liquid into a small white plastictray (about 21 x 14 x 1.5cm in size) andleave to set completely at roomtemperature (don’t move the tray againuntil the mixture is set) – this will takeabout 2 hours. Once the jelly has set,cover with a lid and refrigerate.

While the jelly is setting, make themedjool date purée. Place all theingredients in a blender and blendtogether to form a paste. Taste andadjust the seasoning, if necessary.Transfer the date purée to a dish, coverand keep refrigerated until needed.

Once you are ready to smoke the duck,you will need to make a smoker using adeep roasting tin, a wire cooling rackand some foil. Line the roasting tin witha layer of foil, then spread the soakedrice (water and all, if the rice has notsoaked up all the water), the remaining6 juniper berries and the sprigs ofthyme over the foil. Sprinkle theremaining 100g of dry (unsoaked) riceover the top, then position the coolingrack over the rice mixture. Place theduck breasts, fat-side down, on to thecooling rack.

Place the roasting tin on the hob over ahigh heat and start the smokingprocess. Heat until the rice starts tosmoke. Cover the whole thing with atent of foil and keep it over the heat fora further 2–3 minutes, then turn theheat off, remove from the heat andleave the duck breasts to smoke for 5minutes. Return the roasting tin to theheat to create more smoke, thenremove it from the heat again onceenough smoke has built up. Leave tosmoke for a further 5 minutes, then letthe duck breasts cool completely onthe rack in the roasting tin (leaving thewhole thing covered with foil untilcold). Once smoked, the duck meat willbecome a dark pink colour and the fatwill turn yellow and look melted (but itwill be soft not crispy). Serve thesmoked duck breasts at roomtemperature.

To serve, finely slice the duck breasts.Cut the jelly into 1/2cm squares. Spreadsome date purée over each servingplate, then place small drops ofJerusalem artichoke purée on to theplates. Arrange the duck slices, chicory,orange segments and coriander cress inthe centre of the plates. Serveimmediately.

Duck Pastrami with Chicory andBlood Orange Jelly

10 11



This is confession time. Most chefs workincredibly long, unsociable hours andevery chef I know certainly has a secretcomfort food that makes them feelhuman again. In the winter, with thelong, cold, dark days, I quite enjoy abaked potato smothered with saladcream. This recipe is my take on aglamorised version of baked potato withsalad cream!

Jerusalem artichokes baked over hayare used instead of potatoes, and whilethey are baking, the cream (which willbe used to make the salad cream) issmoked at the same time. This recipe isa far cry from the humble baked potatoand shop-bought salad cream, but it’s aclever and interesting twist that evokesgreat memories.

Serves 4 as a starter

25g clean fresh hay300ml cold water800g Jerusalem artichokes150ml double cream1 clove garlic, crushed2 pinches of caster sugar3 teaspoons Dijon mustard5 tablespoons hazelnut oil1 teaspoon cider vinegar3 teaspoons unsalted butter1 leek, washed and cut into 1/2cm slices2 slices sourdough bread, crustsremoved and bread torn into smallpieces

4 eggsjuice of 1 lemon2 tablespoons rapeseed oil, plus extrafor tossing with the artichokes


baby or mini/micro salad leaves, to serve

Put the hay into a bowl and cover withthe water. Leave to soak for about 30minutes, then drain thoroughly in acolander. Preheat the oven to 200°C/GasMark 6 and find a wire cooling rack thatfits over a large roasting tin.

Peel the Jerusalem artichokes and cutthem in half, then cook them in a pan ofboiling salted water for about 10minutes or until just tender. Drain well.

Place the drained hay in the bottom of alarge roasting tin and place the coolingrack over the hay, then arrange theartichokes on top of the cooling rack ina single layer.

Pour the cream into a small saucepanand season with salt and pepper. Addthe garlic and heat gently to just belowboiling point, then pour the cream into asmall, ovenproof dish. Place the warmedcream on the cooling rack next to theartichokes and cover the whole lotloosely with a tent of foil.

Heat the roasting tin on the hob until thehay starts to smoke, then transfer thefoil-covered roasting tin to the oven andcook for 20 minutes. Remove the creamfrom the oven – it will look like bakedset cream, but once you stir it, it willrevert to liquid again (a slightlythickened and reduced liquid). Pass thecream through a fine sieve and leave to cool.

Return the artichokes, uncovered, to theoven for a further 10 minutes or untilthey have turned a deep, creamy colour– they will be dry and will look slightlysmoked.

Meanwhile, prepare the hazelnut confitleeks. To make the vinaigrette, put apinch of sugar, 1 teaspoon of themustard, the hazelnut oil, cider vinegar

and salt and pepper in a small saucepanand heat gently to just warm it through(do not let it boil). Remove from theheat. Heat 1 teaspoon of the butter in asmall, non-stick frying pan and once thebutter starts to foam, add the leek slicesand salt and pepper and fry over amedium heat for 5–6 minutes or until theleek is golden brown. Transfer the leeksto the warmed vinaigrette and stir, thenset aside to infuse for at least 15 minutes.

In the meantime, wipe the frying panclean, then return it to the heat with theremaining butter. Once the butter startsto foam, add the bread pieces and cookover a medium heat for 3–4 minutes oruntil golden brown and crisp. Drain onkitchen paper and set aside.

Soft-boil the eggs in a pan of gentlysimmering water for 5 minutes, thendrain and plunge into cold water to coolthem quickly. Once cool, drain and thenpeel the eggs, reserving 2 eggs for thesalad cream. Halve the remaining 2 eggsand season with salt and pepper. Setaside until you are ready to serve.

Make the smoked salad cream. Scoopout the soft egg yolks from the 2reserved eggs into a bowl and discardthe egg whites. Add the remaining sugarand mustard, the lemon juice, 100ml ofthe smoked cream and 2 tablespoons ofrapeseed oil and whisk together untilsmooth and combined. Season to tastewith salt and pepper and set aside.

Assemble the dish by tossing the warm,smoked artichokes in a little extrarapeseed oil. Arrange the artichokes onserving plates with the hazelnut confitleeks and salad leaves alongside. Placean egg half on to each plate, then scatterover the golden bread pieces. Pour thesmoked salad cream into a small dippingbowl and serve separately.

Hay-Baked Jerusalem ArtichokeSalad with Smoked Salad Cream

12

The British Larder


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THE BRITISH LARDERA COOKBOOK FOR ALL SEASONSby Madalene Bonvini-Hamel

‘The British Larder is a treat in store for the greedy eater’

Jay Rayner

With over 150 delicious recipes and beautifully illustrated with Madalene’s own photography

http://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/the-british-larder-9781906650711/

The British Larder Cookbook

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