F A L L / W I N T E R 2 0 1 6

T H E E S S E N T I A L R E F E R E N C E F O R T H E M O D E R N M A N

The BOOK

for MEN

COMPLETE

Style Manual

INSIDE

BFM FW 2016 183

Style Manual

183

A study in all things essential and sartorial

184 STYLE MANUAL

It’s easy to get stuck in a sartorial rut. Falling into routines, it seems, is inev-itable, almost gravitational (thus, the “fall”). Just as we occasionally spend our mornings unproductively surfing car blogs or our evenings brainlessly tuned into Netflix over a box of pizza, so too do we compromise our wardrobe. A cou-ple of days of veering toward the predictable or comfortable, and all of a sudden we’re wearing the same few pieces in an endless rotation.

For some, this isn’t a concern. Uniforms are a real thing and can be pulled off to great effect — witness, for example, Obama’s rotation of navy suits, Justin Theroux’s motorcycle boots and jacket, or Mark Zuckerberg’s hoodie. But what of the rest of us? Without Zuckerberg money, a Zuckerberg-style uniform is just sloppy. It can be tough to decide where to begin, or to decipher how far you step outside your satorial box while still looking, and feeling, like yourself. That’s where this iteration of the Style Manual comes in.

We’ve taken a different approach this season, following the styles we’ve observed on the streets and the runways, classifying and cataloguing the different tribes of men out there and curating those looks for you to emulate — or carefully combine. Maybe you’ve got your formal wear down pat but you haven’t been able to move beyond old college T-shirts and (perish the thought) cargo shorts in your off hours, or you feel confident out for a cocktail but aren’t as sure-footed in the boardroom. See where you fit in here — and mix and match as you see fit. The important thing is to take inspiration where you might not otherwise have found it, and to make sure you don’t fall into any kind of self-sacrificing, style-sabotaging routine.

Matthew Biehl, Fashion Editor

TABLE OF CONTENTS

New Age Dandy 185Chief Executive 188Modern Prepster 192Street Racer 196Comfort King 200Watches 203

ON-MODEL

Photography by Matt Doyle

Styling by Jessica Bobince for Atelier Management

Grooming by Liz Olivier using American Crew and Paul Venoit for Wilhelmina NYC

Stylist Assistant: Jorge Lobos

0FF-MODEL

Photography byMike Fraser

Styling byMark John Tripp

The New Style Set

Editor’s Letter

BFM FW 2016 185

New Age DandyTake a page out of Oscar Wilde’s book and embrace the opulent,

the exaggerated, the relentlessly over-the-top. Plush fabrics, bold patterns, and rich colours are all hallmarks of a man who

isn’t afraid to take risks and wear something eye-catching.

Velvet jacket ($2,590) by Jeffrey Rüdes; silk shirt ($670) by Salvatore Ferragamo; wool trousers ($440) by Acne Studios.

Velvet has been out of the game for a while now — unless, of course, we’re talking about a tailored tuxedo jacket. But it’s the perfect top layer for crisp fall nights — just not rainy ones.

FeelingPlush

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Purple is underrated, especially when it comes to suiting. To keep from looking like the Joker, avoid overly bright violet and stick to deeper shades like eggplant or wine, which can easily take the place of a navy suit for a night out.

Flowery prints may normally be seen as a spring thing, but dandies are always looking for a way to bend the rules. Cede to the season by choosing something in dark, autumnal colours and layer over a turtleneck.

Novel IdeaSolid-coloured sweaters are always a reliable choice, but ones that

have something to say are more up the dandy’s alley. From logo-emblazoned versions to animal motifs or flashy embellishments, there’s a perfect match out there for every man.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFTWool sweater ($385) by Maison Kitsuné; wool sweater ($1,295) by Burberry; cotton sweatshirt ($190) by Tiger of Sweden; cotton sweatshirt ($275) by Diesel.

Wool blazer ($425), wool waistcoat ($125), and wool trousers ($225) by Ben Sherman; cotton shirt ($160) by Strellson.

Cotton shirt ($320) by Paul & Shark; polyes-ter turtleneck ($110) by Nautica; wool trousers (price upon request) by Marni; acetate glasses ($450) by Gucci.

MESH GOLDTONE MOONPHASE WATCH

($195) BY GUESS

The Right Watch

PLUM CHOICE

Fall Florals

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Double Up A double monk is incredibly versatile; it looks good with a suit, a crisp pair of jeans,

and, really, anything in between. The buckles provide enough detail, so choose one in rich leather, either flat or pebbled, with just the right amount of gloss.

Leather double monk strap shoe ($825) by Canali, at Holt Renfrew

Two buckles make a statement — try leaving the top one undone to

add a nonchalant flair.

The tab detail shows off the shoe’s fine construction, while a more substantial

heel is winter-ready.

A leather sole is a sign of craftsman-ship, but it’s also prone to slipping.

Rubber inserts at the ball and the heel will keep you sure-footed.

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Chief ExecutiveWhether there’s a dress code in effect or you simply feel your best

in a suit, there are plenty of ways to make sure this menswear staple feels fresh. Embrace embellishment, like subtle patterns, bold shirt-tie combos, or even a snazzy vest. There have always been advantages to

being the best-dressed man in the office. That will never change.

Three-piece suits are an easy way to inject your wardrobe with some dignified gravitas. If you’re new to the look, the best bet is to start with navy — it’s a neutral, accessible colour that will be elevated by the addition of a tailored mid-layer.

Well Vested

BFM FW 2016 189

To Brogue or Not to Brogue Black dress shoes have become synonymous with formal attire, so it can be easy to

forget how much variety and versatility they can still offer. Go with a derby (plain toe, eyelets sewn on top of the vamp) for more casual occasions, or an oxford (eyelets sewn under the vamp) with brogue details for when you’re looking to impress.

Perfecting the combo isn’t just something you do at Subway anymore. Yes, blue and blue will always look good, as will a white shirt with just about any tie. But have some fun with it: try a patterned shirt with a patterned tie, or get textured with a denim shirt and a wool tie, or … whatever. Cookies or chips: the choice is yours.

One-Two Punch

LEFT TO RIGHTLeather shoes ($650) by Church’s, at Hudson’s Bay; leather shoes ($940) by Prada; leather shoes ($950) by Burberry.

LEFT TO RIGHTCotton button up shirt ($195) by Bugatchi; wool tie ($185) by Alexander Olch; cotton button up shirt ($520) by Calvin Klein; silk tie ($230) by Salvatore Ferragamo; cotton button up shirt ($395) by Ermenegildo Zegna; silk tie ($200) by PS by Paul Smith; cotton button up shirt ($250) by Canali; wool tie ($205) by Ermenegildo Zegna.

Micron wool three-piece suit ($16,970) and cotton button up shirt ($1,040) by Kiton; silk tie ($250) by Turnbull & Asser.

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EL PRIMERO CHRONOMASTER

($9,800) BY ZENITH

The Right Watch

LEFT Wool blazer ($2,280) and wool trousers ($1,340) by Salvatore Ferragamo; cotton button up shirt ($685) by Saint Laurent; silk tie ($200) by PS by Paul Smith; silk pocket square ($125) by Turnbull & Asser; leather shoes ($180) by Tommy Hilfiger.

RIGHTWool suit ($1,100) by Tiger of Sweden; cotton button up shirt ($135) by Bugatchi; wood glasses ($450) by ÖGA; silk tie ($200) by PS by Paul Smith.

Most men would consider a Prince of Wales check to be conservative, while an artistic print would be avant-garde. But why not think outside those boxes? A check that changes weight as it moves down the body is suddenly bold, while a floral print that’s shrunk down and only a few shades lighter than the colour of the suit can be the more subtle choice.

PATTERN PLAY

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The Right Note Men have been bringing briefcases to the office since there have been offices to commute to. Then came the messenger bag, then backpacks, then gym bags. While those options have their place (there’s a reason these are called gym bags, gentlemen), it’s high time to restore the briefcase to its rightful place. Opt for one with accordion gussets (the folded

ridges on the sides) to show you mean business, and make sure it has some details to help you stand out.

Leather briefcase ($3,470) by Valentino

Keep your zipper at bay with this clever locking mechanism — it’s

practical, while also showing off the craftsmanship of the bag.

Studs may not work in every workplace, but a detail like this is meant to encourage you to push

the boundaries a bit.

The accordion gusset is a functional detail, allowing the leather to expand, while also adding visual interest to the

sides of the case.

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Modern PrepsterThis category may seem like an oxymoron at first, but stick

with us. Think of it like this: the clothing is preppy in shape and detail, but those details are more urban than country club — black

or grey instead of pastels, slim fits instead of paunchy torsos, or khakis blessedly devoid of pleats.

Rare is the black-tie invitation for most men these days, so put your tuxedo to use in new ways. Repurpose it for a night of cocktails by wearing it with a lightweight knit, a silk scarf, and sneakers. It may feel wrong, but it looks so, so right.

An Informal Affair

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Stripe RightWhen picking a tie, a muted colour palette will let the fabric and

patterns take centre stage. Wool is a warm and welcoming texture, while crisp silks pair well with the sharp lines of stripes and checks in complementary shades.

MASTER ULTRA THIN PERPETUAL ($22,100) BY

JAEGER-LECOULTRE

The Right Watch

Just as we praised black dress shoes, we also think the black suit deserves some time in the limelight. If you don’t want to look like you’re attending a funeral (although, honestly, there’s nothing wrong with looking like you’re at a funeral, sartorially speaking), choose a fitted double-breasted jacket and pair it with a tie that has a hint (and only a hint) of colour.

CLASSICALLY COOL

LEFT TO RIGHTCashmere tie ($325) by Brunello Cucinelli, at Harry Rosen; silk tie ($60) by Kenneth Cole Reaction, at Hudson’s Bay; silk tie ($245) by Burberry; Silk tie ($195) by Drake’s, at Harry Rosen; silk tie ($120) by Strellson.

Wool-mohair blend blazer (starting from $4,770) and Wool- mohair blend trousers (starting from $1,005) by Berluti; cotton shirt ($505) by Burb-erry; silk tie ($200) by PS by Paul Smith.

Cashmere tuxedo ($1,195) by Hardy Amies; cotton T-shirt ($95) by Sunspel; silk scarf ($115) by Fred Perry.

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Wool coat (price upon request) by Fendi; wool suit ($2,095) by Ermene-gildo Zegna; wool button up shirt (price upon request) by Perry Ellis; wool turtleneck ($205) by BOSS.

Layering is a big part of this look — but no, we’re not talking about tying a sweater over your shoulders or doubling up on your polo shirts. A turtleneck is this season’s perfect base layer, while an oxford with some light flecks of colour adds a small pop among the varied shades of grey.

Grey’s Anatomy

BFM FW 2016 195

Buttoned UpA thin-knit cardigan can be worn under a blazer for a more casual spin on the three-piece suit,

or beneath a coat for extra warmth. It gained its name and popularity from military mastermind James Brudenell, the 7th Earl of Cardigan, before being co-opted by college students in the ’50s.

That blend of military and collegiate heritage has led to its return to popularity today.

Wool cardigan ($2,015) by Thom Browne, at Holt Renfrew

Prepsters love a good animal refer-ence, and this dachshund print is the right nod to the cardigan’s heritage.

Mother of pearl buttons add a touch of flash to an otherwise

understated garment.

Grosgrain tri-coloured ribbon is a Thom Browne signature and adds some colour and reinforcement to

the plackets.

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Street RacerIn some ways, street style has supplanted the importance of the

runway. Seeing a designer’s vision on the catwalk is fine, but it can feel inauthentic, or downright unpulloffable, until you actually see someone

wearing it out and putting their own spin on things. Clothes are meant to be worn — styles and vintages mixed, ideas and items borrowed, rips and

tears accumulated — and the street is where they come alive.

The pea coat made a quick transition from naval necessity to civilian favourite, and its popularity has yet to wane. This season, forgo a scarf and wear a track jacket zipped almost all the way up to lend some protection against the elements.

Shore Leave

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All Tied UpSneakers may be the streetwear go-to, but when rain and snow

start to fall, it’s time for something sturdier. Leather lace-up boots are less precious than Chelsea boots and less brawny than military or work boots, especially when they’re devoid of grommets or hooks, revealing their sleek exterior.

SUPER TITANIUM ($475) BY CITIZEN

The Right Watch

The shirt jacket, or “shacket” for short, maintains the buttons, collar, and breast pocket of an Oxford while adding extra insula-tion and more pockets for convenience and warmth. It sounds, on first hearing, like a Frankenstein mess of an item. But we promise: after you realize how versatile it is, you’ll want more than one.

CROSSOVER APPEAL

LEFT TO RIGHTLeather boots ($950) by Versace; suede boots ($1,695) by Kiton, at Harry Rosen; leather boots ($300) by Tiger of Sweden.

Wool-nylon blend jacket ($915) by Coach 1941; cotton shirt ($20) by Joe Fresh; leather backpack ($400) by Michael Kors Mens; cotton jeans ($135) by Levi’s; leather boots ($165) by Timberland.

Wool-cashmere blend coat ($2,085) and silk-wool blend track jacket ($1,110) by Burberry; wool turtleneck ($860) by Gucci; cotton jeans ($775) by Louis Vuitton.

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Wool bomber jacket ($2,950) by Ermenegildo Zegna; cashmere sweater ($395) by Michael Kors Mens; cotton T-shirt ($45) by Levi’s; wool pants ($980) by Dior Homme; leather and suede sneakers ($160) by Lacoste.

Can’t get your head around wearing sweatpants in public? Then the jogger is the pant for you. Cut like a trouser but with a cuffed hem, it’s a casual pant that doesn’t feel casual and, more importantly, doesn’t look casual either.

Sporty Slacks

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Take FlightThe bomber jacket, originally known as the MA-1 flight jacket, is another military design that has become a corner-stone of the modern man’s wardrobe. Originally gaining traction in youth subcultures in the ’70s, it’s now securely

mainstream. The traditional jacket is made from flight-silk nylon in a sage green, with a bright orange lining — colours we’re returning to this season, despite the myriad of brightly coloured versions available, too.

Nylon bomber jacket ($280) by Ben Sherman

The traditional orange interior has been replaced by a quilted yellow lining, adding a bit more warmth

and comfort in the process.

The zippered pocket on the sleeve is a classic design detail

that has been maintained. It may not get much use, but at least

it’s authentic.

The exposed zipper and ribbed collar and cuffs are some of the

most recognizable, and functional, aspects of the bomber. Designers know not to mess with perfection.

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Comfort King“Comfortable” is often regarded as a dirty word in fashion —

menswear is inspired by stiff military dress, after all, and some men still haven’t gotten over the horrors that casual Fridays wrought in the ’90s. But casual clothing has come a long way, and style and comfort are no longer mutually exclusive terms. Some of it is even downright

luxurious. Take a close look here and you’ll see what we mean.

Winter is the time to play with proportion, so why not go all out with an oversized sweater and an equally oversized scarf. The combo will make you feel like you never got out of bed — all the better when you’re waking up when it’s still pitch black out.

Top Heavy

BFM FW 2016 201

Grab and GoThe bag that epitomizes this casual approach to dressing is the

roomy, never rigid weekender. There’s plenty of space for your oversized pieces, or just throw in a few essentials for a quick night away.

GG2570 IN STAINLESS STEEL ($940) BY GUCCI

The Right Watch

Soft in the shoulder and to the touch, this roomy coat is big on purpose. It may be unlined, but the generous cut means you can layer underneath to your heart’s content for added warmth — a chunky cable knit sweater is the right place to start.

SOFTEN UP

Slim cut pants aren’t going anywhere — don’t worry! — but you have a little room to breathe if you happen to require it. Wide trousers lend themselves well to weightier fabrics that have texture and pattern, perfect for keeping warm and lending some character to an outfit.

Room to Move

Wool coat (starting from $3,195) by Bogl-ioli; cashmere sweater ($3,400) by Kiton; cotton pants ($150) by Tommy Hilfiger.

TOP TO BOTTOMMonogram canvas bag ($2,860) by Louis Vuitton; Leather bag ($2,070) by Salvatore Ferragamo, at Harry Rosen; Leather bag ($800) by Coach.

Rayon jacket (price upon request) by 3.1 Philip Lim; wool shirt ($180) by Strellson; wool pants ($770) by Deveaux; leather shoes ($1,510) by Louis Vuitton.

Cashmere sweater (price upon request) by Chanel; nylon-wool blend scarf ($75) by Nautica.

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Touch of ClassYou owe it to yourself to invest in a good pair of gloves — better quality generally leads to more

warmth and comfort, and a higher price tag might encourage you to not lose them for once.

Leather gloves ($570) by Bottega Veneta, at Holt Renfrew

A cashmere lining will keep your hands warm and smooth, two

problems that need to be overcome every winter.

This woven detail is all the flash you need — known as intrecciato, it’s a handcrafted weave that has become Bottega Veneta’s luxuri-

ous signature.

Fit is everything, and this slight stitching detail is used to incorpo-rate a small piece of elastic to make

sure these fit, well, like a glove.

BFM FW 2016 203

Watch This

G e t S m a r t

A l a r m F o r c e

Access Smartwatch by Michael KorsNever one to miss out on a trend, Michael Kors and his juggernaut lifestyle brand is entering the wearables race with the new Access Smartwatch. Powered by Android-ware (though it plays nice with Apple, too), the designs are based on the brand’s pop-ular Bradshaw and Dylan (pictured) styles, with customizable digital faces and straps. The inclusion of a gyroscope and accel-erometer, which allows you to track your activity through Google Fit, means you can say goodbye to your one-trick Fitbit. The watches can also connect with smartphones over bluetooth and wifi for expanded func-tionality, like voice calling and interacting with apps like Instagram and Uber. ($420)

Moon Watch Chronograph by BulovaBy now Bulova is used to making history. Its custom Moon Pilot Chronograph was on the wrist of astronaut Colonel Dave Scott during the Apollo 15 mission to the moon in 1971. And, 44 years later, that same watch set records when it was sold at auction for an incredible $1.625 million. To celebrate this historic timepiece, the American watchmak-er has created a special edition inspired by the original. The Moon Watch shares a sim-ilar dial with the 1971 version, featuring its signature tachymeter around the perimeter, but adds a date function at 4 o’clock. Inside, there is a new, exclusive, high performance quartz movement; and as always, the stainless steel case is water resistant up to 50 meters. While a bracelet version will be available, the black nylon strap, with a com-memorative nubuck leather patch, gives this homage the kind of authentic edge that’s always welcome. ($695)

Heritage Advisor by TudorTudor’s Heritage Advisor is a reimagining of the brand’s classic 1957 alarm watch, which featured a unique complication (in fact, the custom alarm module is Tudor’s only in-house developed movement) that differentiated it from other chronographs. The new de-sign retains the double crowns (one for setting time, the other for setting the alarm) and the red alarm hand, while introducing a circular date dial, an on-off switch at 8 o’clock used to silence the alarm, and a new cognac colourway found on the dial and alligator straps. It may not replace your phone or clock radio when it comes to getting you up in the morning, but it’s definitely the most handsome way to stay on time. ($6,350)

4810 Exotourbillon Slim Limited Edition by MontblancCreated in celebration of the German brand’s 110th anniver-sary, Montblanc’s 4810 Exotourbillon Slim Limited Edition is inspired by the age when cross-Atlantic travel required opu-lent ocean liners. Each watch features a unique, hand-paint-ed miniature of either North America (pictured), Europe, or Asia and their surrounding bodies of water on the dial, inset into a 42mm white gold case. Inside, the watch is powered by the proprietary Calibre MB 29.24 movement with a quick stop-second function. Production will be limited — a total of 110 between the three continents to be precise. Don’t miss the boat. ($60,700)

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