The Best of Oahu

Everyone ventures to Oahu seeking a different experience. Some talk about wantingto find the “real” Hawaii, some are looking for heart-pounding adventure, some yearnfor the relaxing and healing powers of the islands, and others are drawn by Hawaii’saloha spirit, in which kindness and friendliness prevail. You can have all kinds ofmemorable experiences here. Imagine yourself hovering weightless over a rainbowedsea of tropical fish, sitting in a kayak watching the brilliant colors of dawn etch them-selves across the sky, sipping a mai tai while you take in sweeping views of the southshore and the Waianae Mountains, battling a magnificent game fish on a high-techsportfishing boat, or listening to melodic voices chant the stories of a proud peopleand a proud culture that was overthrown little more than a century ago.

This book is designed to help you have the vacation of your dreams. For those tooexcited to page through from beginning to end, this chapter highlights the very bestof what Honolulu and Oahu have to offer.

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1 The Best Oahu ExperiencesTo have the absolute best experiences onOahu, be prepared for a different culture,language, cuisine, and way of doingthings. Slow yourself down—you’re nowon an island that operates on its ownschedule. To really experience the island,we recommend the following:

• Get Out on the Water: View theislands the way Mother Naturedoes—from the sea. There are manydifferent boats to choose from, rang-ing from tiny kayaks to 100-footsightseeing vessels. Even state-of-the-art boats guaranteed to prevent sea-sickness are available. You’ll takehome memories of an emerald islandrising out of the cobalt sea with whitewispy clouds set against an azure skyor the Waikiki shoreline colored bythe setting sun. See chapter 7, “Funin the Surf & Sun,” for details on allkinds of cruises and watersports.

• Plunge Under the Water: Donmask, fins, and snorkel and dive intothe magical world beneath the sur-face, where clouds of colorful tropicalfish flutter by, craggy old turtles lum-ber along, and tiny marine creatureshover over exotic corals. Can’t swim?No excuse—take one of the manysubmarines or semi-submersibles. Ifyou come to Hawaii and don’t see theunderwater world, you’re missing halfof what makes up this paradise. Seechapter 7.

• Meet Local Folks: If you go toHawaii and see only people like theones back home, you might as wellstay home. Extend yourself, leave theresorts and tourist quarters, go outand learn about Hawaii and its peo-ple. Just smile and say “howzit?”which means “how is it?” “Good,good,” is the usual response—andyou’ll usually make a new friend.

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Hawaii is remarkably cosmopolitan;every ethnic group in the worldseems to be here. It’s fascinating todiscover the varieties of food, culture,language, and customs.

• Drive to the North Shore: Just anhour’s drive from Honolulu, theNorth Shore is another world: a pas-toral, rural setting with magnificentbeaches and a slower way of life. Dur-ing the winter months, stop andwatch the professionals surf the mon-ster waves. See chapter 8, “ExploringOahu.”

• Watch the Hula: This is Hawaii, soyou have to experience the hula. Ahula performance is a popular way forvisitors to get a taste of traditionalHawaiian culture. Unfortunately theKodak Hula Show at the Waikiki

Band Shell at Kapiolani Park closedin 2002. For a more genuine Hawai-ian hula experience, catch the hulahalau performed Monday throughFriday at 1pm at the BishopMuseum. See chapter 8.

• Experience a Turning Point inAmerica’s History: The UnitedStates could no longer turn its backon World War II after December 7,1941, the day that Japanese war-planes bombed Pearl Harbor. Stand-ing on the deck of the USS ArizonaMemorial, which straddles the eter-nal tomb for the 1,177 sailors andMarines trapped below deck whenthe battleship sank in 9 minutes, is amoving experience you’ll never for-get. Admission is free. See chapter 8.

C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F O A H U8

2 The Best BeachesSee chapter 7 for complete details on allthese beaches and their facilities.

• Waikiki Beach: This famous stretchof sand is the spot that originally putHawaii on the tourist map. No beachanywhere is so widely known or souniversally sought after as this nar-row, 11⁄2-mile-long crescent of softsand at the foot of a string of high-rise hotels. Home to the world’slongest-running beach party, Waikikiattracts nearly five million visitors ayear from every corner of the planet.In high season, it’s packed towel-to-towel, but there’s no denying thebeauty of Waikiki.

• Lanikai Beach: Hidden, off thebeaten tourist path, this beach on thewindward side has a mile of powder-soft sand and water that’s safe forswimming. With the prevailing tradewinds, it’s also excellent for sailingand windsurfing. It’s the perfect iso-lated spot for a morning of swim-ming and relaxation. Sun-worshipers

should arrive in the morning, as theshadow of the Koolau Mountains(which separate windward Oahufrom Honolulu) blocks the sun’s raysin the afternoon.

• Kailua Beach: Imagine a 30-acrepublic park with a broad, grassy areawith picnic tables, a public boatramp, restrooms, a pavilion, a volley-ball court, and food stands. Add awide, sandy beach, great for diving,swimming, sailing, snorkeling, andboard- and windsurfing, and you’vejust described Kailua Beach, which istops on the windward side of theisland. On weekends, local familiesconsider it the place to go. Great onweekdays, when you practically havethe entire place to yourself.

• Kahana Bay Beach Park: If you didn’t know you were in Hawaii, youwould swear this beach was in Tahitior Bora Bora. Picture salt-and-peppersand, a crescent-shaped beach pro-tected by ironwoods and kamani trees,and as a backdrop, a lush junglelike

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valley interrupted only by jagged cliffs.Kahana offers great swimming (evensafe for children), good fishing, andperfect conditions for kayaking. Com-bine that with picnic areas, camping,and hiking trails, and you have one ofthe best beaches on the island.

• Malaekahana Beach: If you’d like toventure back to Hawaii before jetplanes brought millions of people toOahu, back to the days when therewere few footprints on the sand, thengo north to the romantic woodedbeach park at Malaekahana. This is aplace to sit in quiet solitude or tobeachcomb along the shore. There’sgood swimming most of the time,and good snorkeling when it’s calm,but no lifeguard here. Surprisingly,very few visitors come to Malaeka-hana Beach, one of the best onOahu—it’s a true find.

• Sunset Beach: Surfers around theworld know this famous site for itsspectacular winter surf—the wavescan be huge, thundering peaks reach-ing up to 15 to 20 feet. During thewinter surf season, the best activityhere is watching the professionalsurfers attack the giant waves. In thesummer months, Sunset calms downand becomes a safe swimming beach.

It’s a great place to people-watchyear-round, as you’ll spot everybodyfrom wannabe Baywatch babes toKing Kong surfers.

• Waimea Bay: Here is one of Oahu’smost dramatic beaches. During muchof the winter—October to April—huge waves come pounding in, creat-ing strong rip currents. Even expertsurfers think twice when confrontedwith 30-foot waves that crash on theshore with the force of a runawaylocomotive. It’s hard to believe thatduring the summer this same bay isglassy and calm—a great place forswimming, snorkeling, and diving.Oh, and by the way, despite what theBeach Boys croon in their hit song“Surfin’ USA” (Why-a-mee-ah), thename of this famous surfing beach ispronounced Why-may-ah.

• Pokai Bay: If you dream of a pow-dered-sugar sand beach, a place youcan swim, snorkel, and probably be theonly one on the beach (on weekdays),try this off-the-beaten-path shoreline.Surrounded by a reef, the waters insideare calm enough for children and offerexcellent snorkeling. Come with thealoha spirit and a respect for local cus-toms—the local residents here don’tsee too many visitors.

T H E B E S T S N O R K E L I N G & D I V I N G S I T E S 9

3 The Best Snorkeling & Diving SitesA different Hawaii greets anyone with amask, snorkel, and fins. Under the sea,you’ll find schools of brilliant tropicalfish, lumbering green sea turtles, quick-moving game fish, slack-jawed morayeels, and prehistoric-looking coral. It’s akaleidoscope of color and wonder. Formore on exploring Oahu’s underwaterworld, see chapter 7.

• Hanauma Bay: It can get verycrowded, but—for clear, warm, calmwaters, an abundance of fish that areso friendly they’ll swim right up to

your face mask, a beautiful setting,and easy access—there’s no place likeHanauma Bay. Just wade in waistdeep and look down to see more than50 species of reef and inshore fishcommon to Hawaiian waters.Snorkelers hug the safe, shallow innerbay—it’s really like swimming in anoutdoor aquarium. Serious, experi-enced divers shoot “the slot,” a pas-sage through the reef, to gain accessto Witch’s Brew, a turbulent cove,and other outer reef experiences.

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• Wreck of the Mahi: Oahu is a won-derful place to scuba dive, especiallyfor those interested in wreck diving.One of the more famous wrecks inHawaii is the Mahi, a 185-foot for-mer minesweeper, which is easilyaccessible just south of Waianae.Abundant marine life makes it a greatplace to shoot photos—schools oflemon butterflyfish and ta’ape are socomfortable with divers and photog-raphers that they practically pose.Eagle rays, green sea turtles, mantarays, and white-tipped sharks occa-sionally cruise by, and eels peek outfrom the wreck.

• Kahuna Canyon: For non-wreck div-ing, one of the best dive spots in thesummer is Kahuna Canyon. InHawaiian, kahuna translates as priest,wise man, or sorcerer. This massiveamphitheater near Mokuleia is a per-fect example of something a sorcerermight conjure up: Walls rising fromthe ocean floor create the illusion of anunderwater Grand Canyon. Inside theamphitheater, crab, octopi, slipper,and spiny lobsters abound (be awarethat taking them in the summer is ille-gal), and giant trevally, parrotfish, and

unicorn tangs congregate. Outside theamphitheater, you’re likely to see theoccasional shark in the distance.

• Shark’s Cove: The braver snorkelersmight want to head to Shark’s Cove,on the North Shore just off Kame-hameha Highway, between Haleiwaand Pupukea. Sounds risky, we know,but we’ve never seen or heard of anysharks in this cove, and in summer thisbig, lava-edged pool is one of Oahu’sbest snorkeling spots. Waves splashover the natural lava grotto and cas-cade like waterfalls into the pool full oftropical fish. There are deep-sea cavesto explore to the right of the cove.

• Kapiolani Park Beach: In the centerof this beach park, a section known asQueen’s Beach or Queen’s SurfBeach, between the Natatorium andthe Waikiki Aquarium, is great forsnorkeling. We prefer the reef in frontof the Aquarium because it has easyaccess to the sandy shoreline and thewaters are usually calm. It has theadded advantage of being right nextdoor to the Aquarium in case you seeany flora or fauna you would likemore information about.

C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F O A H U10

4 The Best Golf CoursesOahu is golf country, with 5 municipal, 9military, and 20 private courses to choosefrom. The courses range from 9-holemunicipals, perfect for beginners, tochampionship courses that stump eventhe pros. See chapter 7 for completedetails on these and other courses.

• Ko Olina Golf Club (& 808/676-5309): Here’s a course that’s notonly in a beautiful setting, but isalso downright challenging. In fact,Golf Digest named this 6,867-yard,par-72 course one of “America’s Top75 Resort Courses” when it openedin 1992. The rolling fairways and

elevated tees and a few too manywater features (always where youdon’t want them) will definitelyimprove your game or humble yourattitude.

• Turtle Bay Resort (& 808/293-8574): Of the two courses to choosefrom here, we recommend the 18-hole Arnold Palmer Course (for-merly the Links at Kuilima), designedby Arnold Palmer and Ed Seay; GolfDigest rated it the fourth best newresort course in 1994. Palmer andSeay never meant for golfers to get offtoo easy—this is a challenging course.

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The front 9 holes, with rolling ter-rain, only a few trees, and lots ofwind, play like a course on the BritishIsles. The back 9 holes have narrower,tree-lined fairways and water. Inaddition to ocean views, the coursecircles Punahoolapa Marsh, a pro-tected wetland for endangeredHawaiian waterfowl.

• Makaha Resort Golf Club (& 808/695-7111 or 808/695-5239): Thereaders of Honolulu, a local city mag-azine, recently named this challengingcourse “The Best Golf Course onOahu,” and in 2002 the readers ofGolfweek rated it one of Hawaii’s top10. Away from the crowds of Hon-olulu and about an hour’s drive, thisWilliam Bell–designed course is inMakaha Valley on the leeward side ofthe island. Incredibly beautiful, sheer,

1,500-foot volcanic walls tower overthe course, and swaying palm treesand neon-bright bougainvillea sur-round it; an occasional peacock evenstruts across the fairways. “I was dis-tracted by the beauty” is a great excusefor your score at the end of the day.

• Olomana Golf Links (& 808/259-7926): This gorgeous course inWaimanalo is on the other side of theisland from Waikiki. The low-handi-cap golfer may not find this coursedifficult, but the striking views of thecraggy Koolau mountain ridges areworth the greens fees alone. The par-72, 6,326-yard course is popular withlocal residents and visitors. The coursestarts off a bit hilly on the front 9, butflattens out by the back 9. The back 9have their own special surprises,including tricky water hazards.

T H E B E S T W A L K S 11

5 The Best WalksThe weather on Oahu is usually sunny,with trade winds providing coolingbreezes—perfect conditions for a walk.Below are some of our favorites, from citystrolls to trails through rainforests.

• Diamond Head Crater: Most every-one can make this moderate walk tothe summit of Hawaii’s most famouslandmark. Kids love the top of the760-foot volcanic cone, where theyhave 360-degree views of Oahu upthe leeward coast from Waikiki. The1.4-mile round-trip takes about anhour. See chapter 7.

• Makiki–Manoa Cliff Trails: Just a15-minute drive from downtownHonolulu, this walk passes through arainforest and along a ridgetop withnonstop views. The somewhat stren-uous loop trail is one you’ll never for-get, but it’s more than 6-miles long,gains 1,260 feet in elevation, andtakes about 3 hours to finish. Thetrail is part of the labyrinth of trails in

this area. The views of the city andthe shoreline are spectacular. Seechapter 7.

• Manoa Falls Trail: This easy 3⁄4-mile(one-way) hike is terrific for families;it takes less than an hour to reachidyllic Manoa Falls. The often-muddy trail follows Waihi Streamand meanders through the forestreserve past guava and mountainapple trees and wild ginger. The for-est is moist and humid and inhabitedby nothing more dangerous thangiant bloodthirsty mosquitoes, sobring repellent. See chapter 7.

• Chinatown: Honolulu’s Chinatownappeals to the senses: The pungentaroma of Vietnamese pho mingleswith the ever-present sweet scent ofburning incense; a jumble of streetscome alive every day with busy resi-dents and meandering visitors; ven-dors and shoppers speak noisily in theopen market; retired men talk over

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games of mah-jongg; and the con-stant buzz of traffic all contribute tothe cacophony of sounds. No trip to

Honolulu is complete without a visitto this exotic, historic district. Seechapter 8.

C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F O A H U12

6 The Best Views• Puu Ualakaa State Park: Watching

the sun set into the Pacific from a1,048-foot hill named after a sweetpotato is actually much more roman-tic that it sounds. Puu Ualakaa StatePark translates into “rolling sweetpotato hill,” which refers to how theearly Hawaiians harvested the crop.Don’t miss the sweeping panoramicviews, which extend from DiamondHead across Waikiki and downtownHonolulu, over the airport and PearlCity, all the way to the Waianaerange. Catch great photo ops duringthe day, romantic sunset views in theevening, and starry skies at night. Seechapter 8.

• Nuuanu Pali Lookout: Oahu’s best-looking side, the windward coast, canbe seen in its full natural glory fromthe Nuuanu Pali Lookout, a gustyperch set amid jagged cliffs thatpierce the puffy white clouds that goracing by. A thousand sheer feetbelow, the island is a carpet of greenthat runs to an azure Pacific dottedby tiny offshore islets. You’ll feel likeyou’re standing on the edge of theworld. See chapter 8.

• Diamond Head Crater: The viewfrom atop this world-famous 720-foot-tall sleeping volcano is not to be

missed. The 360-degree view fromthe top is worth the 560-foot hike.You can see all the way from KokoCrater to Barbers Point and theWaianae mountains. See chapter 7.

• Lanikai Beach: This is one of the bestplaces on Oahu to greet the sunrise.Watch the sky slowly move from pitchblack to wisps of gray to burnt orangeas the sun begins to rise over the twotiny offshore islands of Mokulua. Thisis a five-senses experience: birdssinging the sun up; a gentle breeze onyour face; the taste of salt in the air;the smell of the ocean, the sand, andthe fragrant flowers nearby; and thekaleidoscope of colors as another daydawns. See chapter 7.

• Puu O Mahuka Heiau: Once thelargest sacrificial temple on Oahu,today Puu O Mahuka Heiau is a statehistoric site. Located on a 300-footbluff, the Heiau encompasses some 5acres. People still come here to pray—you may see offerings such as ti leaves,flowers, and fruit left at the Heiau.Don’t disturb the offerings or walk onthe stones (it’s very disrespectful). Theview from this bluff is awe-inspiring,from Waimea Bay all the way toKaena Point. See chapter 8.

7 The Best Adventures for Thrill-SeekersSee chapter 7 for details on these andmany other adventures.

• Soar in Silence in a Glider: Imaginesoaring through silence on gossamer-like wings, with a panoramic view ofOahu. A ride on a glider is an unfor-gettable experience. Glider rides areavailable at Dillingham Air Field, in

Mokuleia, on Oahu’s North Shore.The glider is towed behind a plane; atthe right altitude, the tow is dropped,and you (and the glider pilot) are leftto soar in the thermals.

• Surf Waikiki in a Hawaiian Outrig-ger Canoe: It’s summertime andthere’s a South Pacific swell rolling

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into Waikiki from Tahiti; here’s yourchance to try surfing—in a Hawaiianoutrigger canoe. Numerous beachconcessions on Waikiki Beach offerthe chance to paddle an outriggercanoe and surf back into Waikiki.Not only do you get a great view ofWaikiki Beach from offshore, butalso the thrill of actually catching awave and gliding back into shore.

• Float on the Thermals on a TandemHang Glider: See things from abird’s-eye view (literally) as you andan instructor float high above Oahuon a tandem hang glider.

• Leap into the Ocean: Even thoughall the signs say DANGEROUS, STAY OFF

THE ROCKS, a favorite pastime on

Oahu is climbing the stone precipicenext to Waimea Bay and leaping intothe ocean. This is for experiencedswimmers and is a summer-onlyexperience, as the thundering winterwaves drive everyone from the sea,except the professional surfers andthe very, very stupid.

• Venture into the Deep: It’s Hawaii—you have to see what’s under thewaves. Try scuba diving; you canenjoy a “scuba experience” withabsolutely no previous diving experi-ence. (See p. 175 in chapter 7 formore information.) Here’s youropportunity to glide weightlesslythrough the ocean while you admirethe multicolored marine creatures.

T H E B E S T P L A C E S T O D I S C O V E R T H E R E A L O A H U 13

8 The Best Places to Discover the Real OahuOahu isn’t just any other beach destina-tion. It has a wonderfully rich, ancienthistory and culture, and people who areworth getting to know. If you want tomeet the “local” folks who live on Oahu,check out the following:

• Watch the Ancient Hawaiian Sportof Outrigger Canoe Paddling: FromFebruary to September, on weekdayevenings and weekend days, hun-dreds of canoe paddlers gather at AlaWai Canal and practice the Hawaiiansport of canoe paddling. Find a com-fortable spot at Ala Wai Park, next tothe canal, and watch this ancientsport come to life. See the Calendarof Events in chapter 2, “PlanningYour Trip to Oahu.”

• Attend a Hawaiian-Language ChurchService: Kawaiahao Church (& 808/522-1333) is the Westminster Abbeyof Hawaii; the vestibule is lined withportraits of the Hawaiian monarchy,many of whom were coronated in thisvery building. The coral church is aperfect setting to experience an all-Hawaiian service, held every Sunday

at 10:30am, complete with Hawaiiansong. Admission is free; let your con-science be your guide as to a donation.See p. 169.

• Buy a Lei from Vendors in China-town: A host of cultural sights andexperiences are to be had in Honolulu’sChinatown. Wander through this sev-eral-square-block area with its jumbleof exotic shops offering herbs, Chinesegroceries, and acupuncture services.Before you leave, be sure to check outthe lei sellers on Maunakea Street (nearN. Hotel St.), where Hawaii’s finest leisgo for as little as $3.50. See chapter 8for a neighborhood walking tour, andsee chapter 9, “Shopping,” for detailson where to buy leis.

• Observe the Fish Auction: There isnothing else quite like the HonoluluFish Auction at the United FishingAgency, Pier 381131 N. NimitzHwy., Honolulu (& 808/536-2148).The fishermen bring their fresh catchin at 5:30am (sharp) Monday throughSaturday, and the small group of buy-ers bids on all manner of fish. The

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auction lasts until all the fish aresold. It is well worth getting up earlyto enjoy this unique cultural experi-ence. See the Fish Markets section ofchapter 9.

• Get a Bargain at the Aloha FleaMarket: For 50¢ admission, it’s anall-day show at the Aloha Stadium

parking lot, where more than 1,000vendors are selling everything fromjunk to jewels. Go early for the bestdeals. Open Wednesday, Saturday,and Sunday from 6am to 3pm. Seethe box “Favorite Oahu Experiences,”in chapter 7.

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9 The Best Luxury Hotels & Resorts

• Halekulani (& 800/367-2343 or808/923-2311; www.halekulani.com):For the ultimate in a “heavenly”Hawaii vacation, this is the place. Infact, Halekulani translates into“House Befitting Heaven,” an aptdescription. When money is noobject, this resort is the place to stay.This luxury resort is spread over 5acres of prime Waikiki beachfrontproperty and offers acclaimedrestaurants. The atmosphere of ele-gance envelops you as soon as youstep into the lobby. Even if you don’tstay here, drop by at sunset to sip ona mai tai at the gracious HouseWithout a Key and listen to SonnyKamehele sing Hawaiian songs as agraceful hula dancer sways to themusic. See p. 96.

• Royal Hawaiian (& 800/325-3535or 808/923-7311; www.sheraton.com): Hidden in the jungle of con-crete buildings that make up Waikikiis an oasis of verdant gardens and ashockingly pink building. The RoyalHawaiian Hotel, affectionately calledthe “pink palace,” is known aroundthe world as a symbol of luxury.Since the first day it opened in 1927,the Royal has been the place to stayfor celebrities, including ClarkGable, Shirley Temple, PresidentFranklin Roosevelt, the Beatles,Kevin Costner, and others. Its loca-tion is one of the best on WaikikiBeach. See p. 97.

• Sheraton Moana Surfrider Hotel(& 800/325-3535 or 808/922-3111;www.moana-surfrider.com): Step backin time to old Hawaii at the SheratonMoana Surfrider Hotel, built in1901. Those days of yesteryear liveon today at this grand hotel. Entry isthrough the original colonial porte-cochere, past the highly polishedwooden front porch, with whitewooden rocking chairs, and into theperfectly restored lobby with itsdetailed millwork and intricate plas-ter detailing on the ceiling. Timeseems to slow down here, tropicalflowers arranged in huge sprays areeverywhere, and people in the lobbyall seem to be smiling. At check-in,guests are greeted with a lei and aglass of fruit juice. This is a hotel notonly with class, but also with historiccharm. See p. 99.

• W Honolulu (& 877/W-HOTELSor 808/922-1700; www.whotels.com):It’s expensive, but worth every penny,to be totally pampered in a low-key,elegantly casual hotel that caters tothe business traveler but takes excel-lent care of vacationers, too. The WHonolulu can be summed up in anutshell by the button on your roomphone that says “whatever/whenever.”That’s what we call service! If you’recraving peace and quiet—away fromthe crowds of Waikiki but closeenough (about a 15-min. walk) toshops and restaurants—this is a per-fect location. See p. 111.

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• Hilton Hawaiian Village BeachResort & Spa (& 800/HILTONS or808/949-4321; www.hiltonhawaiianvillage.com): Waikiki’s biggest resort—this place is so big it even has its ownpost office. Some 3,000 rooms arespread over 20 acres with tropical gar-dens, thundering waterfalls, exoticwildlife, award-winning restaurants,nightly entertainment, two brand-new state-of-the-art spas, 100 differ-ent shops, children’s programs,fabulous ocean activities, a secludedlagoon, three swimming pools,Hawaiian cultural activities, twominigolf courses, and Waikiki Beach.This place is so big and so complete,you could spend your entire vacationhere and never leave the property. Seep. 94.

• Kahala Mandarin Oriental Hawaii(& 800/367-2525 or 808/739-8888;www.mandarinoriental.com): Since1964, when Conrad Hilton firstopened the hotel as a place for rest andrelaxation, far from the crowds ofWaikiki, the Kahala has always beenrated as one of Hawaii’s premierhotels. A venerable who’s who ofcelebrities have stayed at the hotel,including every president sinceRichard Nixon, a host of rock starsfrom the Rolling Stones to the BeachBoys, and a range of actors from JohnWayne to Bette Midler. The Mandarinis a completely up-to-date resort, withexotic Asian touches, but it retains thegrace and elegance of a softer, gentlertime in the islands. See p. 119.

• JW Marriott Ihilani Resort & Spaat Ko Olina (& 800/626-4446 or808/679-0079; www.ihilani.com):Located in the quiet of Oahu’s westcoast, some 17 miles and 25 minuteswest of Honolulu International Air-port—and worlds away from thetourist scene of Waikiki—the Ihilani(which means “heavenly splendor”) isthe first hotel in the 640-acre KoOlina Resort. It features a luxury spaand fitness center, plus championshiptennis and golf. The plush rooms arespacious, with huge lanais and lagoonor ocean views from some 85% of theunits. Who misses Waikiki with lux-ury like this? See p. 124.

• Turtle Bay Resort (Oahu; & 800/203-3650 or 808/293-6000; www.turtlebayresort.com): After a $35million renovation, this once sterlinghotel is back. The resort is spectacu-lar: an hour’s drive from Waikiki, buteons away in its country feeling. Sit-ting on 808 acres, this place is loadedwith activities and 5 miles of shore-line with secluded white-sand coves.All the rooms have great views, but ifyou can afford it, book the separatebeach cottages. Positioned right onthe ocean (the views alone are worththe price), the 42 bungalows havebeen renovated (hardwood floors,poster beds with feather comforters)and have their own check-in and pri-vate concierge; it’s like a hotel withina hotel. See p. 122.

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10 The Best Bargain AccommodationsIt is possible to stay on Oahu withouthaving to take out a second mortgage.Here are some options.

• The Breakers (& 800/426-0494 or808/923-3181; www.breakers-hawaii.com): Full of old-fashioned Hawaiian

aloha—and it’s only steps from thesands of Waikiki—this two-storyhotel has a friendly staff and a loyalfollowing. Each of the tastefully dec-orated, slightly oversize rooms comeswith a lanai and a kitchenette, withprices starting at $99. See p. 102.

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• Hawaiiana Hotel (& 800/367-5122or 808/923-3811; www.hawaiianahotelatwaikiki.com): “The spirit ofold Hawaii”—the hotel’s slogan saysit all. This intimate, concrete hollow-tiled low-rise hotel has guest roomsthat feature kitchenettes, two beds (adouble and a single, or a queen and asofa bed), a view of the gardens, twoswimming pools, and it’s just a blockfrom the beach. Starting at $95. See p 104.

• Royal Grove Hotel (& 808/923-7691; www.royalgrovehotel.com):This small, family-owned hotel is agreat bargain for frugal travelers.What you get here is old-fashionedaloha in cozy accommodations alongthe lines of Motel 6—basic and clean.And you can’t do better for theprice—this has to be the bargain ofWaikiki. For $45 (about the sameprice a couple would pay to stay in aprivate room at the hostel inWaikiki), you get a clean room in theolder Mauka Wing, with a doublebed or two twins, plus a kitchenettewith refrigerator and stove. See p. 116.

• Manoa Valley Inn (& 808/947-6019; www.manoavalleyinn.com): It’scompletely off the tourist trail and farfrom the beach, but that doesn’t stoptravelers from heading to this genteel1915 Carpenter Gothic home on aquiet residential street near the Uni-versity of Hawaii. This eight-roomManoa landmark—it’s on theNational Register of HistoricPlaces—offers a glimpse into thelifestyles of the rich and famous inearly Honolulu. Each room has itsown unique decor and has beennamed for a prominent figure inHawaii’s history. Rates are $99 to

$120 double with shared bath, $140to $190 double with a private bath.See p. 118.

• Santa’s by the Sea (& 800/262-9912or 808/985-7488; www.bestbnb.com): Santa’s isn’t located on just anybeach, but the famous Banzai Pipe-line. You can go from your bed tothe sand in less than 30 seconds towatch the sun rise over the Pacific.And it’s just $135 for two for thisapartment right on the ocean. Thelocation, price, and style make thisplace a must-stay if you plan tospend time on the North Shore. Seep. 123.

• Rainbow Inn (& 808/488-7525):This private tropical garden studiohas panoramic views of Pearl Harbor,the entire south coast of Oahu, andthe Waianae and Koolau mountains.A large deck and full-size pool are justoutside your door. Located close toPearl Ridge Shopping Center, Rain-bow Inn is a short drive from all ofOahu’s attractions, yet far enoughaway to provide you with lots ofpeace and quiet. At $75 to $85 anight, this is one of Oahu’s best deals.See p. 118.

• Ke Iki Beach Bungalows (& 866/638-8229 or 808/638-8829; www.keikibeach.com): Next to its own200-foot stretch of white-sand beach,this collection of studio, one-, andtwo-bedroom duplex cottages is purerustic Hawaii. It’s snuggled betweentwo legendary surf spots: WaimeaBay and Banzai Pipeline. Ke Iki is notfor everyone, though. The accommo-dations are modest, but clean and comfortable. Studios start at $65, and one-bedrooms at $90. Seep. 123.

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T H E B E S T R E S O R T S PA S 17

11 The Best Resort Spas• SpaHalekulani, Halekulani Hotel,

Waikiki (& 808/923-2311; www.halekulani.com): Waikiki’s newestspa, just opened in 2003, is the first inHawaii to explore the healing tradi-tions of the Pacific islands, includingSamoa, Tonga, Tahiti, as well asHawaii. From the time you step intothe elegantly appointed, intimate spaand experience a foot massage, to thelast whiff of fragrant maile—their sig-nature scent—this is truly a “heav-enly” experience. Try somethingunique, like the Polynesian Nonu, aSamoan-inspired massage using stonesand the nonu plant, or the Ton TonAmma, a Japanese amma massagewith ton-ton pounders. See p. 97.

• Spa Suites at the Kahala MandarinOriental (Oahu; & 808/739-8938;www.mandarinoriental.com): TheKahala Mandarin Oriental has takenthe concept of spa as a journey intorelaxation to a new level with formergarden rooms converted to individualspas, each with a glass-enclosedshower, private changing area, infin-ity-edge deep soaking Jacuzzi tub,and personal relaxation area. Nodetail is overlooked, from the warmfoot bath when you arrive to therefreshing hot tea served on your per-sonal enclosed garden lanai after yourrelaxation treatment. See p. 119.

• Turtle Bay Resort (Oahu; & 800/203-3650; www.turtlebayresort.com):This new, Zen-like spa positioned onthe ground floor facing the ocean hassix treatment rooms, a meditationwaiting area, an outdoor workoutarea, plus complete fitness center anda private elevator to the rooms on thesecond floor, reserved for guests get-ting spa treatments. See p. 122.

• Abhasa Waikiki Spa in the RoyalHawaiian Hotel (& 808/922-8200;

www.abhasa.com): This contempo-rary spa, spread out over 7,000 squarefeet, concentrates on natural, organictreatments in a soothing atmosphere,where the smell of eucalyptus waftsthrough the air. You can experienceeverything from the latest aromather-apy, thalassotherapy (soaking in asweet-smelling hot bath), to shiatsumassages. Their specialty is a cold-laser, anti-aging treatment that prom-ises to give you a refreshed, revitalizedface in just 30 minutes. See p. 98.

• Mandara Spa in the Hilton Hawai-ian Village Beach Resort & Spa(Waikiki; & 808/947-9750; www.mandaraspa.com): Opened in thesummer of 2001, this spa is in thenew Kalia Tower of the sprawlingHilton Hawaiian Village. Choosefrom a menu of unique treatmentslike a Javanese Lulur rub, a Balinesefacial, or a Hawaiian tropical flowerbath. Each of the 25 luxury treatmentrooms has its own exotic private gar-den. There’s also a fitness center withan open-air cardiovascular center,aerobic and fitness classes, a relaxingpool and a meditative area, and a full-service salon. See p. 94.

• Ihilani Spa at the JW Marriott Ihi-lani (& 800/626-4446; www.ihilani.com): An oasis by the sea, thisfreestanding 35,000-square-foot facil-ity is dedicated to the traditional spadefinition of “health by water.” Themodern, multistoried spa, filled withfloor-to-ceiling glass looking out ongreen tropical plants, combinesHawaiian products with traditionaltherapies to produce some of the bestwater treatments in the state. You’llalso find a fitness center, tenniscourts, and a bevy of aerobic andstretching classes. See p. 124.

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Pampering in Paradise

Spa-goers in Hawaii look for a sense of place, steeped in the culture. Theywant to hear the sound of the ocean, smell the salt air, and feel the caressof the warm breeze. They want to experience Hawaiian products and tra-ditional treatments that can only be found in the islands. And now they can.

With so much to offer, the spas of Hawaii, once nearly exclusively patron-ized by women, are now attracting more male clients. Special massages areoffered for children and pregnant women, and some spas have programs tonurture and relax brides on their big day.

Today’s Hawaiian spas offer a wide diversity of treatments. Forget plain,ordinary massages—now you can try Hawaiian lomilomi, Swedish, aro-matherapy (with sweet-smelling oils), craniosacral (massaging the head),shiatsu (no oil, just deep thumb pressure on acupuncture points), Thai(another oil-less massage involving stretching), and hot stone (with heated,and sometimes cold, rocks). There are even side-by-side massages for cou-ples. The truly decadent might even try a duo massage—not one, but twomassage therapists working on you at once.

Massages are just the beginning. Body treatments, for the entire body orfor just the face, involve a variety of herbal wraps, masks, or scrubs using arange of ingredients from seaweed to salt to mud, with or without accom-panying aromatherapy, lights, and music.

After you have been rubbed and scrubbed, most spas offer an array ofwater treatments—a sort of hydromassage in a tub with jets and an assort-ment of colored crystals, oils, and scents.

Those are just the traditional treatments. Most spas also offer a range ofalternative health care procedures such as acupuncture and chiropractic,and other exotic treatments such as ayurvedic and siddha from India or reikifrom Japan. Many places offer specialized, cutting-edge treatments, like theGrand Wailea Resort’s full-spectrum color-light therapy pod (based onNASA’s work with astronauts).

Once your body has been pampered, spas also offer a range of fitnessfacilities (weight-training equipment, racquetball, tennis, golf) and classes(yoga, aerobics, step, spinning, stretch, tai chi, kickboxing, aquacize). Sev-eral even offer adventure fitness packages (from bicycling to snorkeling).For the nonadventurous, most spas have salons, dedicated to hair and nailcare and makeup.

If all this sounds a bit overwhelming, not to worry, all the spas in Hawaiihave individual consultants who will help design you an appropriate treat-ment program to fit your individual needs.

Of course, all this pampering doesn’t come cheap. But to banish your ten-sion and stress? The expense may be worth it. Massages are generally $115to $135 for 50 minutes and $145 to $180 for 80 minutes; body treatmentsare in the $120 to $165 range; and alternative health-care treatments canbe as high as $150 to $220.

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12 The Best Restaurants

• La Mer (& 808/923-2311): This isthe splurge restaurant of Hawaii, theoceanfront bastion of haute cuisine, aromantic, elegant, and expensiveplace where people dress up—not tobe seen, but to match the ambienceand food. It’s an open-sided roomwith views of Diamond Head and thesound of trade winds rustling thenearby coconut fronds. Award-win-ning chef Yves Garnier melds classicalFrench influences with fresh islandingredients. See p. 129.

• Alan Wong’s Restaurant (& 808/949-2526): One of Hawaii’s pre-miere chefs, Alan Wong specializes inabsolutely the best Pacific Rim cui-sine. His restaurant is always packed,although the ambience is limited andit’s located in a shopping mall in thesuburbs—but for serious “foodies”this is heaven. Masterstrokes at thisshrine of Hawaii Regional Cuisine:warm California rolls made withsalmon roe, wasabi, and Kona lobsterinstead of rice; luau lumpia with but-terfish and kalua pig; and ginger-crusted fresh onaga. Opihi shootersand day-boat scallops in season are amust, while nori-wrapped tempuraahi is a perennial favorite. The menuchanges daily, but the flavors neverlose their sizzle. See p. 152.

• The Pineapple Room (& 808/945-8881): Yes, it’s in a department store,but it’s Alan Wong, a culinary icon.The food is terrific, particularly any-thing with ahi (for example, the ahi-meatloaf), which Wong conjures up ina miraculous tasty form. The room fea-tures an open kitchen with a lava-rockwall and abundant natural light, butthese are details in a room where foodis king. The menu changes regularly,but keep an eye out for the ginger scal-lion shrimp scampi, nori-wrapped

tempura salmon, and superb gazpachomade of yellow and red Waimea toma-toes. See p. 139.

• Chef Mavro Restaurant (& 808/944-4714): Honolulu is abuzz overthe wine pairings and elegant cuisineof George Mavrothalassitis, the culi-nary wizard from Provence whoturned La Mer (at the Halekulani)and Seasons (at the Four SeasonsResort Wailea) into temples of finedining. He brought his award-win-ning signature dishes with him, andcontinues to prove his ingenuity withdazzling a la carte and prix-fixemenus. See p. 152.

• L’Uraku (& 808/955-0552): Trythis pleasant, light-filled dining roomwith an expanded fusion menu forlunch or dinner. It’s not overly fussy,but still has the right touch of ele-gance for dining in style withoutbreaking the bank. Chef HiroshiFukui, born in Japan and raised inHawaii, was trained in the formalJapanese culinary tradition calledkaiseki; he combines this trainingwith fresh island ingredients andEuropean cooking styles. Dishes suchas seared scallops, garlic steak, andsuperb misoyaki butterfish are amongthe many stellar offerings. The $15“Weekender lunch” is an unbeliev-able value. See p. 143.

• Olive Tree Cafe (& 808/737-0303):This temple of Greek and Mediter-ranean delights is the quintessentialneighborhood magnet—casual, bust-ling, and consistently great. OwnerSavas Mojarrad has a following offoodies, hipsters, artists, and all man-ner of loyalists who appreciate hisintegrity and generosity. Standardsare always high, the food reasonable,the dishes fresh and homemade.Order at the counter and grab a table

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inside or out (the place is small).Bring your own wine, and sit downto fresh fish souvlakia, excellent mar-inated mussels, and spanakopitamade with special sheep’s cheese.Mojarrad even makes the yogurt forhis famous yogurt-mint-cucumbersauce, the souvlakia’s ticket to im-mortality. And don’t miss thechicken saffron, a Tuesday special.See p. 157.

• Padovani’s Restaurant & Wine Bar(& 808/946-3456): Chef PhilippePadovani’s elegant, innovative style ishighlighted in everything from theendive salad to pan-fried moi at histwo-tiered approach to fine dining.Downstairs is the swank dining roomwith its Bernaudaud china and Frettelinens; upstairs is the informal WineBar, with excellent single-maltScotches, wines by the glass, and amuch more casual, but equally sub-lime, menu. See p. 133.

• Roy’s Restaurant (& 808/396-7697): Good food still reigns at this

busy, noisy flagship Hawaii Kai din-ing room with the trademark openkitchen. Roy Yamaguchi’s deft waywith local ingredients, nostalgic eth-nic preparations, and fresh fish makeshis menu, which changes daily, anovel experience every time. Yam-aguchi’s special dinners with vintnersare a Honolulu staple. See p. 157.

• Kakaako Kitchen (& 808/596-7488): If you’re in the market for aquick-and-healthy breakfast, lunch,or dinner at budget prices, here’s theplace. Not fancy; in fact, the trade-mark Styrofoam plates, warehouseambience, and home-style cookingare the signature at this local favoritein the Ward Centre. The menu,which changes every 3 to 4 months,includes eggs for breakfast; seared ahisandwiches with tobiko (flying-fishroe) aioli for lunch; and a signaturecharbroiled ahi steak, beef stew, five-spice shoyu chicken, the very popularmeatloaf, and other multiethnicentrees for dinner. See p. 144.

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13 The Best ShoppingProducts of Hawaii now merit their ownfestivals and trade shows throughout theyear. “Made in Hawaii” is a label to betouted. Here are a few places to startlooking.

• Academy Shop (in the HonoluluAcademy of Arts; & 808/523-8703):The recent expansion of the Hon-olulu Academy of Arts made a goodthing even better. You’ll find a stun-ning selection of art books, sta-tionery, jewelry, basketry, beadwork,ikats, saris, ethnic fabrics, fiber ves-sels, accessories, and contemporarygift items representing the art andcraft traditions of the world. See p. 247.

• Alii Antiques of Kailua II (& 808/261-1705): Make a beeline here, par-ticularly if you have a weakness for

vintage Hawaiiana. Koa lamps andrattan furniture from the 1930s and’40s, hula nodders, rare 1940s koatables, and a breathtaking array ofvintage etched-glass vases and traysare some of the items in this unfor-gettable shop. See p. 252.

• Avanti Fashion (& 808/924-1668and 808/922-2828): In authenticprints from the 1930s and ’40s repro-duced on silk, Avanti aloha shirts andsportswear elevate tropical garb fromhigh kitsch to high chic. Casual,comfortable, easy care, and light as acloud, the silks look vintage but costa fraction of collectibles prices. Thenostalgic treasures are available inretail stores statewide, but the bestselection is at the retail stores inWaikiki. See p. 239.

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• Bibelot (& 808/738-0368): Bibelot isthe perfect local gallery: tiny, tasteful,and luminous with fine works of glass,paintings, ceramics, jewelry, textiles,and other objects of beauty. Kudos toPaul Sakai and Tom Tierney for givingisland artists this new and refreshingvenue. More than 30 artists, some ofthem the finest in the islands (includ-ing Doug Britt, Margaret Ezekiel,Charles Higa, and Kenny Kicklighter),make their works available here. Fan-tastic gifts to go. See p. 240.

• Contemporary Museum Gift Shop(in the Contemporary Museum; & 808/523-3447): This gets ourvote as the most beautiful setting fora gift shop, and its contents are abonus: extraordinary art-relatedbooks, avant-garde jewelry, cards andstationery, home accessories, and giftitems made by artists from Hawaii

and across the country. Only the besthere. See p. 247.

• Native Books & Beautiful Things(& 808/596-8885): Hawaii is thecontent and the context in this shopof books, crafts, and gift items madeby island artists and crafters. Musicalinstruments, calabashes, jewelry, leis,books, fabrics, clothing, home acces-sories, jams and jellies—they’re allhigh quality and made in Hawaii—acelebration of Hawaiiana. See p. 248.

• Silver Moon Emporium (& 808/637-7710): This is an islandwidephenomenon, filled with the terrificfinds of owner Lucie Talbot-Holu,who has a gift for discovering fashiontreasures. Exquisite clothing andhandbags, reasonably priced foot-wear, hats, jewelry, scarves, and a fullgamut of other treasures pepper theattractive boutique. See p. 254.

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14 The Best Spots for Sunset Cocktails• Sunset Lanai (in the New Otani

Kaimana Beach Hotel; & 808/923-1555): The hau tree shaded RobertLouis Stevenson as he wrote poems toPrincess Kaiulani. Today it frames theocean view from the Sunset Lanai,next to the Hau Tree Lanai restau-rant. Sunset Lanai is the favoritewatering hole of Diamond Head–areabeachgoers who love Sans SouciBeach, the ocean view, the mai taisand sashimi platters, and the livemusic during weekend sunset hours.See p. 114.

• House Without a Key (in the Haleku-lani; & 808/923-2311): Oahu’s quin-tessential sunset oasis claims severalunbeatable elements: It’s outdoors onthe ocean, with a view of DiamondHead, and it offers great hula and steelguitar music—and one of the best maitais on the island. You know it’s specialwhen even jaded Honoluluans declareit their favorite spot for send-offs,

reunions, and an everyday gorgeoussunset. See p. 96.

• Mai Tai Bar (in the Royal HawaiianHotel; & 808/923-7311): Perched afew feet from the sand, this bar with-out walls has sweeping views of theSouth Shore and the Waianae Moun-tains. Surfers and paddlers ride thewaves while the light turns goldenand Diamond Head acquires a halo.Here is one of the most pleasingviews of Waikiki Beach; sip a mightymai tai while Carmen and KeithHaugen serenade you. See p. 99.

• Duke’s Canoe Club (in the OutriggerWaikiki Hotel; & 808/923-0711): It’scrowded at sunset, but who can resistlistening to the top Hawaiian musi-cians in this upbeat atmosphere a fewfeet from the sands of Waikiki? Comein from the beach or from the street—it’s always a party at Duke’s. Enter-tainment here is tops, and it reaches acrescendo at sunset. See p. 258.

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• Jameson’s by the Sea (& 808/637-4336): The mai tais here are dubbedthe best in surf city, and the view,although not perfect, doesn’t hurteither. Across the street from the

harbor, this open-air roadside oasisis a happy stop for North Shore wavewatchers and sunset-savvy sightseers.See p. 159.

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15 The Best Oahu Websites• Hawaii Visitors & Convention

Bureau (www.gohawaii.com): Anexcellent, all-around guide to activi-ties, tours, lodging, and events, plus ahuge section on weddings and honey-moons. But keep in mind that onlymembers of the HVCB are listed.

• Planet Hawaii (www.planet-hawaii.com): Click on “Island” for anisland-by-island guide to activities,lodging, shopping, culture, the surfreport, weather, and more. Mostly,you’ll find short listings with links tocompanies’ own websites. Click on“Hawaiian Eye” for live images fromaround the islands.

• Internet Hawaii Radio (www.hotspots.hawaii.com): A great wayto get into the mood, this eclectic sitefeatures great Hawaiian music, with

opportunities to order a CD or cas-sette. You can also purchase arespectable assortment of Hawaiianhistorical and cultural books.

• Visit Oahu (www.visit-oahu.com):An extensive guide to activities, din-ing, lodging, parks, shopping, andmore from the Oahu chapter of theHawaii Visitors and ConventionBureau.

• The Hawaiian Language Website(http://hawaiianlanguage.com):This fabulous site not only has easylessons on learning the Hawaiian lan-guage, but also a great cultural calen-dar, links to other Hawaiianawebsites, a section on the hula, andlyrics (and translations) to Hawaiiansongs.

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