The Best of Maryland & Delaware COPYRIGHTED MATERIAL · they are charming guest rooms and suites,...

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The Best of Maryland & Delaware I ’ve always lived in Maryland and never wanted to live anywhere else. Delaware is the tiny gem of a state right next door. In either state it’s easy to find fascinating places to visit: from historic sites dat- ing back to the first settlements in the New World to high-tech attractions; good eating, from fresh seafood at local diners to fine dining; great natural beauty and lots of outdoor activity, from the ocean to the bay to the mountains. The regions covered in this book can make a great day trip, weekend, or full vacation. A tourist at heart, I’ve spent my whole life visiting places around my state and its next-door neighbor. I found myself awed at the horror of Antietam, delighted by the idiosyncratic home of American Red Cross founder Clara Bar- ton, and invigorated by paddling a canoe down a creek off the Patapsco River. I can’t wait for you to see the places I’ve always loved: the beautiful, hidden Cunningham Falls; the views from the rolling Appalachian Mountains; the friendly streets of Baltimore; and the bars and restaurants in Annapolis. Don’t be fooled by Delaware’s size. Billing itself as the “Small Wonder,” its coast is famous for laid-back beach resorts. The state is also a major destination for NASCAR and slots fans. It has an extraordinary number of finely preserved turn-of-the-last-century mansions, and a compact, cultured metropolis in Wilmington. These two states have been touched by revolution, civil war, and world wars, and the people here don’t forget. You can see places where George Washington stood, where brothers died, and where slaves ran for freedom. You can see silent monuments to those who defended the country in 1812, 1917, and 1945. These states love the water that laps their shores. The Atlantic Ocean, the Chesapeake Bay, the rivers winding through valleys and mountains have given the people places to work, to play, and to stop and take in the beauty. Bring your sense of wonder and your sense of humor. You’ll learn something, maybe. You’ll see something beautiful, of course. You’ll have fun, definitely. 1 1 Frommer’s Favorite Maryland & Delaware Experiences The view from the Ocean City, Maryland, Ferris Wheel: Fork over the $5 for a ticket and climb aboard the vintage wheel. Go just before sunset and you won’t wait in line. That’s the perfect time to watch the charter boats heading in for the night and to see the sun set over Assawoman Bay. As darkness falls, you can watch the boardwalk light up. See chapter 9, “Maryland & Delaware’s Atlantic Beaches.” The Star-Spangled Banner at Fort McHenry (Baltimore): The park rangers ask visitors to help with the raising and the lowering of the huge flag each day. The nooks and crannies, and views COPYRIGHTED MATERIAL

Transcript of The Best of Maryland & Delaware COPYRIGHTED MATERIAL · they are charming guest rooms and suites,...

Page 1: The Best of Maryland & Delaware COPYRIGHTED MATERIAL · they are charming guest rooms and suites, set in beautiful gardens, a few miles from the du Pont homes and gardens. See p.

The Best of Maryland & Delaware

I’ve always lived in Maryland and never wanted to live anywhere else. Delawareis the tiny gem of a state right next door.

In either state it’s easy to find fascinating places to visit: from historic sites dat-ing back to the first settlements in the New World to high-tech attractions; goodeating, from fresh seafood at local diners to fine dining; great natural beauty andlots of outdoor activity, from the ocean to the bay to the mountains.

The regions covered in this book can make a great day trip, weekend, or fullvacation. A tourist at heart, I’ve spent my whole life visiting places around mystate and its next-door neighbor. I found myself awed at the horror of Antietam,delighted by the idiosyncratic home of American Red Cross founder Clara Bar-ton, and invigorated by paddling a canoe down a creek off the Patapsco River.

I can’t wait for you to see the places I’ve always loved: the beautiful, hiddenCunningham Falls; the views from the rolling Appalachian Mountains; thefriendly streets of Baltimore; and the bars and restaurants in Annapolis.

Don’t be fooled by Delaware’s size. Billing itself as the “Small Wonder,” itscoast is famous for laid-back beach resorts. The state is also a major destinationfor NASCAR and slots fans. It has an extraordinary number of finely preservedturn-of-the-last-century mansions, and a compact, cultured metropolis inWilmington.

These two states have been touched by revolution, civil war, and world wars,and the people here don’t forget. You can see places where George Washingtonstood, where brothers died, and where slaves ran for freedom. You can see silentmonuments to those who defended the country in 1812, 1917, and 1945.

These states love the water that laps their shores. The Atlantic Ocean, theChesapeake Bay, the rivers winding through valleys and mountains have giventhe people places to work, to play, and to stop and take in the beauty.

Bring your sense of wonder and your sense of humor. You’ll learn something,maybe. You’ll see something beautiful, of course. You’ll have fun, definitely.

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1 Frommer’s Favorite Maryland & Delaware Experiences• The view from the Ocean City,

Maryland, Ferris Wheel: Forkover the $5 for a ticket and climbaboard the vintage wheel. Go justbefore sunset and you won’t waitin line. That’s the perfect time towatch the charter boats heading infor the night and to see the sun setover Assawoman Bay. As darkness

falls, you can watch the boardwalklight up. See chapter 9, “Maryland& Delaware’s Atlantic Beaches.”

• The Star-Spangled Banner atFort McHenry (Baltimore): Thepark rangers ask visitors to helpwith the raising and the loweringof the huge flag each day. Thenooks and crannies, and views

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keep young ones interested. Out-side the fort, the sprawling water-front park is perfect for familiesand picnics. See p. 86.

• Rafting the Yough: The Youghio-gheny River (generally just calledthe Yock) is Maryland’s great white-water river. Its churning waters racethrough class III/IV rapids, withnames like Gap Falls, Bastard,Triple Drop, Meatcleaver, Lost andFound, and Backbender. The waterlevels are controlled by dam release,so the river can be ridden almostyear-round. See chapter 8, “West-ern Maryland.”

• Any Baseball Game: Maryland hasbaseball’s most beautiful stadium—Oriole Park at Camden Yards—andthe best team in the world (the Ori-oles, of course!). Players toss balls tokids in the stands, and the OrioleBird has been known to loft T-shirtsor even (wrapped) hot dogs to thefans. The many minor league teamsare also fun and more affordable.See “The Best Baseball in Mary-land,” later in this chapter.

• Going “Downy Ocean”: Head forthe crowded beaches of Ocean City,Maryland (with all those restau-rants, shops, and golf courses), or tothe quiet public beaches of Reho-both or Bethany, Delaware. Bothhave their charms. The sand iswhite and clean; the waves can begentle or furious (watch for the redwarning flags). The sand crabs areused to being dug up, and the seagulls will keep an eye on yoursnacks. (Don’t give in and feedthem. It can be pretty scary.) Seechapter 9, “Maryland & Delaware’sAtlantic Beaches.”

• Tea at Bertha’s (Fells Point, Balti-more; & 410/327-5795): Bertha’s

tea is an afternoon delight. Cupafter cup of Earl Grey with sconesand clotted cream, Scotch eggs,and an assortment of savories andsweets are perfect in the shabbychic dining room of this FellsPoint eatery. See p. 79.

• Crabbing on the Wye River (St.Michaels, Maryland): Whetheryou are wading with crab pots orchicken-necking from a boat, theWye River is the place to go crab-bing. See chapter 6, “EasternShore.”

• Preakness Week (Baltimore): Ifyou’re young and want some seriouspartying, check out the infield. Ifyou actually want to see the secondjewel in the Triple Crown, head forthe grandstand. The race, held thethird Saturday in May, concludes aweek of festivities. The party usu-ally starts with hot air “balloonglows” in the Inner Harbor. If youwant grandstand tickets to thePreakness, held at Pimlico RaceCourse (& 410/542-9400), it’sbest to call up to a year ahead.Infield tickets are available up to theweek before and are sold at somearea gas stations. See chapter 4,“Baltimore.”

• Off-Road Vehicle Trips onAssateague Island: Most peoplewho visit Assateague see only the4- or 5-mile stretch of guardedbeach and federal and state camp-ing facilities. They’ve missed thebest part: the 20 miles of undis-turbed beaches. This part of theisland is only accessible on foot,by canoe or kayak, or over off-road vehicle trails, the fastest wayto get to those secluded areas. See“Assateague Island NationalSeashore,” in chapter 9.

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2 The Best Accommodations Bets• Harbor Court Hotel (Baltimore;

& 800/824-0076): It’s a treat to walk in the door and you’re

pampered when you spend a nighthere. Rooms are exquisitely fur-nished with tons of amenities, and

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C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F M A RY L A N D & D E L A W A R E6

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the restaurant offers some of thecity’s best dining. See p. 66.

• Hotel du Pont (Wilmington; & 800/441-9019): Not only is thisa showcase of marble, carved panel-ing, and DuPont’s latest fibers, itoffers its lucky guests palatial sur-roundings, terrific amenities, andsome of the best restaurants intown. See p. 295.

• Tidewater Inn (Easton, Mary-land; & 800/237-8775): This isEastern Shore hospitality at itsbest. The inn is noted for its gor-geous surroundings, careful atten-tion to service, and location in theheart of Easton, which is perfectfor a weekend getaway or huntingtrip. See p. 149.

• Inn at Montchanin Village(Montchanin, Delaware; & 800/COWBIRD): This cluster of build-ings was once home for workers ofthe DuPont powder mills. Nowthey are charming guest rooms andsuites, set in beautiful gardens, afew miles from the du Pont homesand gardens. See p. 296.

• The Annapolis Inn (Annapolis,Maryland; & 410/295-5200):This sumptuous Georgian-stylehouse was originally the home ofThomas Jefferson’s physician in the1770s. The three-course breakfastis served in the warm, cranberry-red dining room on fine china, sil-ver, and crystal. There are Jacuzzis,a room with its own deck, a patiosurrounding a koi fishpond, andexperienced, welcoming hosts. Seep. 113.

• Elliott House Victorian Inn(Grantsville, Maryland; & 800/272-4090): Western Maryland hasalways been a good place to getaway from it all, and the ElliottHouse, a restored 1877 Victorianhome, offers a tranquil setting inthe middle of a bustling historicsite, next to the Spruce Forest Arti-san Village. Just off the highway, it’snestled among the trees by the Cas-selman River Bridge. See p. 227.

• Bluebird on the Mountain Bedand Breakfast (Frederick, Mary-land; & 800/362-9526): Reservethe room with the sun porch andmake a beeline for the chaiselongue. Or take your breakfast tothe porch and listen to the windrustle through the enormous trees.Hard to believe it’s less than 2 hoursfrom Baltimore or Washington. Amassage therapist is only a phonecall away. Just a few minutes’ driveaway are Frederick, the Civil Warbattlefields, and views of theAppalachians. See p. 205.

• Waterloo Country Inn (PrincessAnne, Maryland; & 410/651-0883): When Theresa and IrwinKraemer moved from Austria tothis 1775 Georgian manor onMaryland’s Eastern Shore, theirintention was to turn it into thequintessential country inn. Theirhostelry on the banks of MonieCreek offers seclusion, peace, andtranquillity, whether you’re wander-ing the inn grounds, canoeing thelovely tidal creek, or biking theback roads of Somerset County. Seep. 180.

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3 The Best Dining Bets• Carrol’s Creek (Annapolis, Mary-

land; & 410/263-8102): Thebest views of the waterfront andAnnapolis skyline are paired withimaginative food. Dine indoors oron the porch from a menu that isalways changing but will match

rockfish with polenta and free-range chicken with truffle-scentedmashed potatoes. The cream ofcrab soup is a winner. See p. 120.

• Charleston (Baltimore; & 410/332-7373): Southern cuisine takescenter stage at this restaurant in

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the trendy Harbor East neighbor-hood. Expect to be treated likeroyalty while the waitstaff bringsyou your micro-green salad, grilledyellowfin tuna with andouillesausage, and a perfect crèmebrûlée. See p. 73.

• Green Room (Wilmington,Delaware; & 302/594-3154):

Delaware’s top restaurant wowsdiners the minute they see theimpressive decor. But the real starhere is the food: classic sauces,perfectly cooked meats and veg-etables, and desserts prepared asart. See p. 298.

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4 The Best Affordable Dining• Harpoon Hanna’s (Fenwick

Island, Delaware; & 800/227-0525): The food is good; the freshbread and muffins are outstand-ing. For a beach restaurant, thisone is worth the trip. Set on acanal, its big windows let the sun-set in. The fish is fresh, the staffhardworking. And children arealways welcome. Come early or beprepared for a substantial wait.See p. 261.

• Baltimore’s museum restaurants:Gertrude’s (Baltimore Museum ofArt; & 410/889-3399) and JoyAmerica Cafe (American VisionaryArts Museum & 410/244-6500)

are two delightful restaurants thatgo perfectly with a trip to themuseum or as trips by themselves.The food at both is artfully pre-pared and both have outdoor dining (in season) with beautifulviews. See p. 83.

• Grill Art (Baltimore; & 410/366-2005): I’m sticking my neck outbecause this is a brand new restau-rant. But its stylish bistro settingand inventive sandwiches, salads,and brunch menu make it a greataddition to the quirky Hampdenscene. And the prices make this agood value. See p. 84.

5 The Best Shopping Bets• Antique Row (Baltimore): In 1

block of Howard Street a fewblocks north of downtown, seriousantiques fans can find old silver,chandeliers, assorted porcelains,and chairs of all sizes and shapes.See chapter 4, “Baltimore.”

• Rehoboth Outlets (RehobothBeach, Delaware): Wear comfort-able shoes; this is tax-free outletshopping heaven. Four centers haveeverything from Waterford crystalto Oshkosh overalls. There’s lots ofclothing and home decor outlets, aswell as books, food, and other stuff.

See chapter 9, “Maryland &Delaware’s Atlantic Beaches.”

• Downtown Annapolis: MainStreet and Maryland Avenue offershoppers all kinds of choices in lit-tle shops. Tuscan kitchenware,Christmas ornaments, antique mir-rors, and Navy sweatshirts are onlya few of the items on these charm-ing streets. There are a few chainstores, but the best shops are locallyowned. See chapter 5, “Maryland’sTwo Capitals: Annapolis & St.Mary’s City.”

6 The Best Views & Vistas• A Mountaintop at Wisp Ski

Resort: Ride the ski lift to the top,and before you go schussing

down, take a good look. You’ll seesnow-covered slopes, the vastwhite expanse of Deep Creek Lake

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lined with the tracks of an occa-sional snowmobile, and a sky asblue as it can be. See chapter 8,“Western Maryland.”

• Severn River Scenic Overlook:On Route 450 outside of Annapo-lis, a beautiful stone porch offersstunning views of the Severn Riverand U.S. Naval Academy. It is alsonow the site of a World War IIMemorial with summaries of themajor battles, and obelisks bearingthe names of Marylanders whogave their lives in World War II.See chapter 5, “Maryland’s TwoCapitals: Annapolis & St. Mary’sCity.”

• Great Falls of the Potomac: On asunny Sunday, the walkways arecrowded, but who cares? Just out-side of Potomac, a Maryland sub-urb north of Washington, D.C., onthe C&O Canal, a series of walk-ways will take you over the GreatFalls of the Potomac. Stand abovethe piles of jagged rocks as thePotomac River rushes over them

and down to the sea, the steepestand most spectacular fall line rapidsof any eastern river. See “Aroundthe Capital Beltway,” in chapter 5.

• Bay Bridge: When you get to themiddle, you get a wonderful viewof the Chesapeake. Maryland’sEastern Shore stretches down oneterminus, and the view of the West-ern Shore includes Annapolis southof the bridge and two lighthousesnorth of the bridge. The closest isthe Sandy Point light, and the far-ther one is the Baltimore light.Believe it or not, state officials areconsidering obstructing this viewbecause motorists keep slowingdown!

• Brandywine Valley: While the artat the Brandywine River Museumis dazzling, don’t forget to look outthe windows. The view of the rivermeandering under the canopy oftrees is peaceful, though in fall ariot of color. See chapter 11, “TheBrandywine Valley & HistoricNew Castle.”

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7 The Best Hiking• Calvert Cliffs State Park: This

park offers trails for moderate-length day hiking and a wide vari-ety of wilderness scenery. The trailswind through forests and thendescend into a primordial tidalmarsh with grasses, waterfowl, andcypress trees. Most hikes include atleast one view of the ChesapeakeBay from atop the cliffs or from asmall beach at the base of themarsh. See chapter 5, “Maryland’sTwo Capitals: Annapolis & St.Mary’s City.”

• Swallow Falls State Park: A greatplace for families to hike in GarrettCounty, Maryland, this park’sshort trails wind through dark,peaty forest and offer relatively easy

access to some stunning scenery.There are overlooks to three water-falls—Swallow Falls, Tolliver Falls,and the 63-foot-high, cascadingMuddy Creek Falls. See chapter 8,“Western Maryland.”

• Big Savage Trail: This ruggedtrail extends 17 miles along theridge of Big Savage Mountain,passing impressive vistas along theway. A tough hike through almosttotal wilderness, it’s our choice forserious backpacking in Mary-land—though closed in 2003,work is underway to reopen thistrail after severe storms in 2002and 2003. See chapter 8, “West-ern Maryland.”

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8 The Best Fishing & Crabbing• Point Lookout State Park (Mary-

land): Location is everything atthis peninsular park with theChesapeake Bay on one side andthe Potomac River on the other.Fish from the pier on the bay, orrent a boat at the camp marina. Ifthey aren’t biting in the bay, strollover to the Potomac and try again.See chapter 5, “Maryland’s TwoCapitals: Annapolis & St. Mary’sCity.”

• Calvert County Charter Fleets:For charter fishing on the Chesa-peake, Calvert County south ofAnnapolis is the place to go. Thesmall harbor of ChesapeakeBeach is home to the largest char-ter fleet on the bay. With over 30charter boats and a few headboatsof its own, Solomons, south of

Chesapeake Beach, has a goodfleet, too. From either one, the cap-tains are glad to take you trolling orchumming along the Western andEastern Shores of the Chesapeake.See chapter 5, “Maryland’s TwoCapitals: Annapolis & St. Mary’sCity.”

• Casselman River (fly-fishing/nearGrantsville, Maryland): Cleanupefforts in this area have paid off.The beautiful and wild CasselmanRiver, once empty of fish becauseof local acid mining, is now teem-ing with trout. Fish tales includecatches of up to 40 fish a day–andfishing with the bears. One thingis for certain, though: The Cassel-man is once again a great place tofish. See chapter 8, “WesternMaryland.”

9 The Best Birding & Wildlife Watching• Blackwater National Wildlife

Refuge (Maryland): The Del-marva Peninsula is dotted withwildlife refuges and protectedlands, havens for migrating water-fowl and other wildlife. Blackwateris the largest of these. During peakmigration season, you’ll see ducks,tundra and mute swan, and snowgeese, as well as the ever-presentherons, Canada geese, and osprey,and the occasional bald eagle. Ifyou explore the wooded areas, youmay even catch sight of the endan-gered Delmarva fox squirrel. Seechapter 6, “Eastern Shore.”

• Bombay Hook National WildlifeRefuge (Delaware): The largest ofDelaware’s wildlife refuges, Bom-bay Hook, northeast of Dover, hasnearly 16,000 acres of tidal marsh,freshwater pools, and timberedswamps. You’ll see a lot of migra-tory waterfowl, but after waterfowlseason, in April, May, and June,migrant shorebirds and songbirds

appear. See chapter 12, “Dover &Central Delaware.”

• Whale- & Dolphin-Watching onthe Mid-Atlantic: The Atlanticcoast of Maryland and Delawarenear Cape Henlopen State Park(Delaware) is a good place to spotwhales and dolphins. The GreatDune at Cape Henlopen is a greatvantage point (bring binoculars);there are also whale- and dolphin-watching cruises, even sea kayakingwith the dolphins. See chapter 9,“Maryland & Delaware’s AtlanticBeaches.”

• Butterfly Watching at EasternNeck National Wildlife Refuge:The trees here fill up with the col-orful little travelers as they maketheir way to South America everyfall. Tundra swan fans also awaitthe waterfowl’s arrival to this rest-ing place. The refuge’s websitekeeps nature-lovers up to date onthe migrating creatures’ arrival. Seechapter 6, “Eastern Shore.”

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10 The Best Festivals & Events• Flower Mart (Baltimore): This

1-day festival is held the firstWednesday in May, beside theWashington Monument on CharlesStreet. Ladies wear flower-bedeckedhats and there are plenty of flowers,as well as traditional Baltimorefoods, including crab cakes and theyummy lemon stick. (Halve alemon, stab it with a peppermintstick, and suck the juice throughthe candy.)

• The Annapolis Sailboat Show(Annapolis; & 410/268-8828;www.usboat.com): Boat dealers fillthe city dock with an array of sailboats, some spartan racingboats and others luxurious floating

living rooms. Wear sneakers orboat shoes, and you can climbaboard them all and dream. Heldthe first weekend in October. ThePowerboat Show is held the fol-lowing weekend.

• Waterfowl Festival (Easton; & 410/822-4567; www.waterfowlfestival.org): You’ll see paintings ofcanvasbacks, herons, and Canadageese; decoys practical and fanciful;and sculptures so lifelike you’llwant to smooth the feathers. Thereare sometimes even tiny sculpturesworked in gold. Then for fun, stopby the duck-calling contest, held inEaston the first weekend inNovember.

11 The Best Family Activities• Harbor Queen Boat Ride

(Annapolis): The kids love leaningover the rail as waves hit the boat,and it’s a great way to see the bay. There’s a little history lessonbut mostly this is a wind-in-your-face, sun-in-your-eyes ride. Seechapter 5, “Maryland’s Two Capi-tals: Annapolis & St. Mary’s City.”

• Delaware History Center (Wil-mington): The toddlers can run upand down the ramps, the school-age children can try out the inter-active exhibits, and everybody willget a kick out of the “DistinctlyDelaware” exhibit. Grandma’s Atticadds hands-on activities to the fun.See p. 301.

12 The Best Camping• Janes Island State Park (Mary-

land): For sunset views over theChesapeake Bay, the campsites atthis park north of Crisfield can’t bebeat. Many sites sit on the water’sedge, offering unobstructed viewsand access to the canoe trail. If youprefer less primitive accommoda-tions, there are a few waterside cab-ins. See chapter 6, “Eastern Shore.”

• New Germany State Park (Mary-land): It’s small, with only 38 well-spaced sites, but they are clean,well-kept, and offer easy access to hiking trails, fishing spots inthe park lake, and the facilities ofseveral other state parks and

forests. The 11 cabins are greatoptions for winter cross-countryskiing trips. See chapter 8, “West-ern Maryland.”

• Potomac–Garrett State Forest(Maryland): For primitive campingin the mountains, head to this stateforest in Garrett County. Nearly allthe campsites are within walkingdistance of one of the forest’smountain streams, and they’re sospread out, you may never know ifyou have camping neighbors. Seechapter 8, “Western Maryland.”

• Cape Henlopen State Park(Delaware): Summer beach camp-ing is always a tenuous venture,

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with the heat, the bugs, and thesand. But the facilities at CapeHenlopen make for the best beachcamping. There are 159 woodedsites, several with full hookups, andall with access to bathhouses and

running water. Within the park,you’ll find several miles of hikingand biking trails, guarded beaches,and great fishing. See chapter 9,“Maryland & Delaware’s AtlanticBeaches.”

T H E B E S T P I C N I C P L A C E S 13

13 The Best CuriositiesThese are worth a look if you happento be in the area:

• The Fish That Didn’t Get Away(Ocean City, Maryland): At thesouth end of the boardwalk are acouple of stuffed prize fish caughtoff Ocean City. These record-breakers are pretty big, but thestories make a stop here even moreworthwhile.

• C&D Canal (Chesapeake City):This canal connecting the Chesa-peake Bay with Delaware Baydraws ships from all over theworld. In fact, more freight ton-nage goes through here thanthrough the Panama and SuezCanals combined.

• Katyn Monument (Baltimore):Next to the Marriott at the InnerHarbor East is a golden monu-ment flashing in the sun. This 47-foot sculpture by Andrew Pitynski

is dedicated to all prisoners of waras it memorializes Polish officersmurdered by the Soviets in 1940in the Katyn Forest.

• Eye of Water (Brandywine Valley,near Wilmington, Delaware): Atiny feature in the Longwood Gar-dens, this little spot is where allthe water circulates for the 50-footwaterfall a few paces west of it. Itsits atop 90,000 gallons of waterbut you’d never know it, standingthere in this little pavilion watch-ing the Eye of Water.

• Delaware Coast Watchtowers:These tall, lonely towers stoodsentry during World War II.Crews manned them 24 hours aday, on the lookout for Germanships and submarines. The towersstill look out to sea. You can’t goinside them, but you’ll spot themas you drive along the coast.

14 The Best Picnic Places• Hagerstown Park (Western Mary-

land): In the center of town, this isa gem. Its Victorian styling, play-grounds, and swans floating on thepond make it a great place to sitback and relax. There are concertsin the summer, a small Museum ofFine Arts, and the wonderfulHager House, built in 1739 whenthis was America’s frontier. To gethere, take the Sharpsburg PikeNorth exit off I-70, turn left onWilson Boulevard, and turn righton Virginia Avenue.

• Oregon Ridge Park (Baltimore):The Baltimore Symphony Orches-tra performs in this unassuming

park off I-83 at Shawan Road in the summertime. Fourth of July concerts often end with fire-works. Bring your picnic and blan-kets or buy food here. Concertsbegin about 8pm. See chapter 4,“Baltimore.”

• Quiet Waters Park (& 410/222-1777): You can spend all day atthis well-designed park south ofAnnapolis. Besides plenty ofplaces to lay out your picnic, thereare bike and walking paths, play-grounds, waterfront paths, boatand kayak rentals, gardens, andoccasional art exhibits. In winter,there’s an ice rink.

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C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F M A RY L A N D & D E L A W A R E14

The Best Baseball in Maryland

Marylanders love baseball. The Orioles are the big league team, ofcourse, but the state is also home to six minor league teams, two base-ball museums, and a monument to a storied slugger.

The Baltimore Orioles play at Oriole Park at Camden Yards. The sta-dium is easy to get to, right off I-95 to I-395 at the bottom of the rampinto town. The light rail stops here for every game. Parking in lotsaround the stadium is close and usually costs about $10. (Parking at thestadium goes fast.) The stadium was designed to bring spectators closerto the action, and it does. Watch out for foul balls! A promenade fol-lows the warehouse building along the outfield wall. Stop at the deckoverlooking the bullpen to watch the pitchers warm up. The food ispretty good and ranges from hot dogs to Italian sausage to crab cakes.Former Oriole Boog Powell’s barbecue stand sends a cloud of smoke upover the scoreboard wall and the pit beef sandwiches are worth thewait in line. The park also offers tours that give visitors a chance to sitin the dugout and in the press box from April to September. Call & 888/848-BIRD or visit baltimore.orioles.mlb.com.

An Orioles game might be a great place to bring a client (the stands arefull of them), but a minor league game is the place for families. In addi-tion to lower ticket prices (less than $10) and more intimate stadiums,many stadiums have playgrounds, fireworks, and special family events.

The Aberdeen Ironbirds, Maryland’s newest team, a Class A affiliateof the Orioles, are owned by Aberdeen native Cal Ripken and his fam-ily. The stadium was an instant hit when it opened in 2002. Youth-sizestadiums, including a replica of Oriole Park at Camden Yards, are in theworks for the Ripken Academy. The Cal Ripken World Series came hometo Aberdeen for 2003. The Oriole Park field will be home to the Cal Rip-ken League World Series. For information call & 410/297-9292 or visitwww.ironbirdsbaseball.com.

The Bowie Baysox, a Class AA Orioles affiliate, usually has a fireworksdisplay after Saturday home games. The team plays in Prince George’sStadium. For tickets, call & 301/464-4900 or visit www.baysox.com.

The Delmarva Shorebirds, of the Class A South Atlantic League, are anOrioles affiliate, and play near Ocean City at Arthur W. Perdue Stadiumin Salisbury, Maryland. For tickets, call & 888/BIRDS96 or 410/219-3112or visit www.theshorebirds.com.

The Frederick Keys, a Class A Orioles affiliate, play at Harry Grove Stadium in Frederick, off Route 70. Current Orioles on the disabled listcome here to get back into shape. The Keys draw fans from Baltimoreand Washington. For tickets, call & 877/8GO-KEYS or visit www.frederickkeys.com.

• Trees of the States Arboretum:This haven at Delaware Technicaland Community College’s George-town campus is a pleasant place to

stop on the way to or from thebeach. Apart from the 51 trees representing the states and the Dis-trict of Columbia, there’s just a

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The Hagerstown Suns, a Class A team of the San Francisco Giants,play at Municipal Stadium on Route 40. For tickets, call & 800/538-9967or 301/791-6266, fax 301/791-6066, or visit www.hagerstownsuns.com.

The Babe was a Yankee, but he was born in the narrow rowhouse thatis now the Babe Ruth Birthplace and Museum/Baltimore OriolesMuseum. Two rooms are set up as they would have looked when he wasliving here. Exhibits include a wall enumerating his home runs; and mem-orabilia from his career and his days at St. Mary’s Industrial School in Bal-timore, where he learned to play the game. New exhibits recalled thedays he played in Baltimore as well as “The Babe Ruth of the NFL,” thelate Johnny Unitas. The Orioles and gone-but-not-forgotten Colts havetheir own exhibits. The Orioles’ exhibit takes visitors up to today withmementoes of various World Series, All Star games, and Hall of Famer CalRipken. It’s at 216 Emory St.; & 410/727-1539; fax 410/727-1652; www.baberuthmuseum.com. Admission is $6 for adults, $4 seniors, $3 ages 5 to16. It’s open April to October daily 10am to 5pm (until 7pm on Orioles’home game days); November to March daily 10am to 4pm. Closed Janu-ary 1, Thanksgiving Day, and December 25. From Camden Yards, followthe sidewalk baseballs from the Babe Ruth statue at the north end of thewarehouse to the house 2 blocks away.

The Ripken Museum pays homage to more than Cal, Jr. It’s a testamentto the “Ripken Way” that took six Ripkens to professional baseball. Whatmakes this museum interesting is not just the exhibits but the staff. Theyspeak of the Ripkens as friends and know one or all of them personally.Some of the most interesting items are from Cal, Sr. and his brothers whoplayed minor league ball decades ago. Every August, the Cal RipkenWorld Series trophy (for 12-year-old players) is on exhibit. It’s at 3 W. BelAir Ave., Aberdeen, MD 21001; & 410/273-2525; www.ripkenmuseum.com. Admission is $3 adults, $2 seniors, $1 children 6 to 18. It’s openMemorial Day through Labor Day, Monday through Saturday, 11am to3pm, Sunday noon to 3:30pm; from Labor Day to Memorial Day, Fridayand Monday, 11am to 3pm, Sunday noon to 3:30pm and Saturday 11amto 4pm; other hours by appointment. Take I-95 north to Exit 85 forAberdeen. Turn right on Route 132 East (W. Bel Air Ave.). Go 11⁄2 miles.The museum is on the left.

If you visit Chestertown, look for the life-size statue of Bill Nicholsonnext to the town hall on Cross Street. The Chestertown native was ahome run king in the 1940s with the Chicago Cubs. He led the majors inhome runs and RBIs in 1943 and 1944. During the 1944 season, the NewYork Giants intentionally walked him with the bases loaded, rather thanrisk a grand slam. He died in his hometown, Chestertown, in 1996.

gazebo, a pond, and a picnic area.It’s a lovely place to take a break.Each tree is marked with its speciesand state. Many have been growing

here since 1976. For more informa-tion and large tour groups, call & 302/856-5400.

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