TEXWORLD - NEW YORK CITY, JULY 2011

ANNE GILLESPIE

TEXTILE SUSTAINABILITY: IMPACTS, INTEGRITY & INNOVATIONS

TEXTILE SUSTAINABILITY: IMPACTS, INTEGRITY & INNOVATIONS

• Introduction to Textile Exchange

• Why Textiles? Setting the context for sustainability

• Innovations in Sustainability – resources and processes

• The Role of Integrity – standards, certification, transparency

• Q&A

• Non-profit, textile-focused, membership

organization, founded 2002.

• Staff in 8 countries • Originally focused on organic cotton, growing the

market from $200 million in 2002 to over $4 billion in 2009

• 2010-2015: Moving into other sustainable textiles, due to membership demand.

• Approximately $755 billion of retail sales in 2009. • 199: Current Company Members

• 74: North America • 48: India and Asia

• 6: South America • 2: Australasia

• 61: Europe • 7: Africa

As a global, non-profit, membership organization, we help accelerate sustainable practices in the textile value

chain.

New paradigm: “sustainable” textiles

All textile sourcing

Sustain- able

Textile sourcing

Sustain- able

Sustainability was a niche activity Organic was a clear option for cotton

“I need integrated solutions” “I must green my whole supply chain”

Organic cotton

Old paradigm for a brand/retailer New paradigm

Start here. Go anywhere.

Start here. Go anywhere.

Suppliers

Training

Reports

White Papers

Links and Blogs

OE, TE and other

Standards Guidelines

Industry Working Groups

Trade Associations

Consultants

Certifiers

resources

Wouldn’t it be nice?

Pre-screened links, blogs, articles, and research papers.

Credible academics, consultants, experts, and peers.

Someone you can contact 24/7 (well, almost) with all of those questions that keep you up at night.

Key Mega-trends impacting Sourcing Learn how the key mega-trends are reshaping the market for sustainable textiles. Discover what key brands are doing and why. What will brands be asking you to do in the near future?

The Case for Sustainable Sourcing – Leading Brand Perspective Learn from the leading brand the main challenges to addressing sustainability, how this impacts on suppliers and what this leading brand is looking for from suppliers now and into the future.

Market Report Organic Cotton and Sustainable Textiles What’s happening in the market for organic cotton. How market growth is affecting the supply chains globally and which issues producers, spinners, manufacturers and brands are facing today and in future.

Deep Dive into Recycled Materials (Polyester & Nylon) What is recycled material? The definition of recycled, learn about mechanical and chemical processes of recycling of polyester and nylon, the production and sourcing issues and certification systems available.

Product Integrity –Certification & Labeling Understand product integrity and how labeling, certification and traceability help safeguard it, and gain insight into different certification systems and standards. As you start to incorporate recycled fiber into your product – learn about the Global Recycled Standard.

Responsible Processing – Dyeing and Finishing How to make textile processing more environmentally friendly? The pros and cons of the dyeing industry looking at the difference between natural vs. synthetic dyes. Learn from experts with extensive textile processing backgrounds.

Mainstreaming Sustainability into your business What are the key factors in developing and implementing your sustainability strategy? An introduction into some of the key initiatives designed to improve and measure the environmental impact of your business.

SOME OF OUR TRAINING MODULES

Why textiles?

Impacts People. Lots and lots of people. 9 billion by 2050.

Waste. Water. Energy. Toxics. Climate. Biodiversity.

Textile waste occupies nearly

5% of all landfill space.

recycled

The loss, in dollar

value of materials,

due to the failure of

companies and

individuals in the

US to recycle, has

been estimated at

$30 billion per year.

There is no “away”.

But there is a solution.

Polyester

Greenhouse Gas Emissions

Source: Natureworks LCA PLA Production

Nylon

700 gallons of fresh

water to make 1

cotton t-shirt.

It takes

In 2009, the world used 3 trillion gallons of fresh

water to produce 132 billion pounds of fabric.

According to the World Bank:

20% of industrial fresh water pollution

comes from textile treatment and dyeing.

1 trillion kilowatt hours used every year by the global textile industry

= 10% of total global carbon

impact

Sustainability: Innovation’s New Frontier

INNOVATION’S NEW FRONTIER

New technologies, products, and services that are challenging existing systems

New ways of creating value taking environmental challenges into

account Environmentally better, eco-efficient ways to produce and provide

products in order to support the transition to greater sustainability Visionary and pragmatic approaches - research and development -

technology selection - product design

Social, environmental AND economic improvements

ABOVE ALL A GREAT WAY TO DIFFERENTIATE

THE CONTEXT

6 WAYS TO MORE SUSTAINABILITY

1- Reducing, Recycling & Upcycling 2- Renewable & Biodegradable

3- Re-Exploring Naturals

4- Doing More from Less

5- Water-Less 6- New Methods

1- REUSING, RECYCLING & UPCYCLING

REUSING, RECYCLING AND UPCYCLING

Recycled materials used in a wider and wider range of applications

Zero-waste designs Design for disassembly, design for recyclability

More and more take back programs with incentives Technology development for sorting and recycling

2- RENEWABLE & BIODEGRADABLE

Avantium: pre-commercialisation of YXY technology to convert biomass into bio-polymers

Teijin Biofront™ with a melting point 210C Arkema PA11 Rilsan® enter the market

Rudolf Chemie: use of rape seed oil for textile auxiliaries

Enzyme technology for textile processing

RENEWABLE & BIODEGRADABLE

3- RE-EXPLORING NATURALS

Revived interest in natural fibres and their development

Nettle projects in the Netherlands and the Himalayas Marginal fibres in research and development

Alpaca – Kenaf – Kapok – Coir – Pineapple and Banana fibres Better and better, finer and finer

- Better Cotton Initiative - 10.4μ wool - Crailar® technology for hemp and linen

RE-EXPLORING NATURALS

• Renewable raw materials an alternative to petroleum • Corn, soy, sugar, castor beans, bamboo, potatoes, eucalyptus and more • Closed loop systems and transparency are key

BIO-BASED POLYMERS AND CELLULOSICS

4- DOING MORE FROM LESS

CLARIANT ADVANCED DENIM

DIRESUL RDT dyes ARKOFIL DEN-FIX

INDIGO dye

Conventional denim slasher

Advanced denim: pad/sizing-ox process Can be combined with gentle washing techniques

Per batch:

92% less water 30% less energy 87% less cotton waste

Source: Clariant

HUNTSMAN: AVITERA™ SE AND ERIOPON® LT

60-80 L 30-40 L 15-20 L

7 h 5.5 h 4h

AVITERA™ SE

For 1 kg of cotton

50% water saving 50% process time saving 70% less energy

BAT today COMMODITY

Next generation of reactive dyes

Source: Huntsman

5- WATER-LESS

C02 dyeing

The Yeh Group implements the new process developed by DyeCoo Textile Systems: waterless dyeing

Laser technology

WATTWASHTM: 97,5% water free denim washing treatment by Marithé et Francois Girbaud

Plasma technologies

Surface modification of different kinds of fibres to provide intrinsic effects on textiles

Digital printing

Increased speed with high quality

WATER-LESS

6- NEW WAYS

6- NEW WAYS

BioCouture

Suzanne Lee & Central Saint Martins in London Bacterial-cellulose, grown in a laboratory, to produce

clothing Spray-On fabric

Fabrican & the Imperial College of London Instant sprayable non woven fabric 3D Printing

Freedom of Creation with Jiri Evenhuis and Pauline van Dongen

EFFECTIVE SOLUTIONS ARE AVAILABLE

Improved technologies and better skills are essential tools for supporting sustainable development

Companies are in a dynamic situation of embracing sustainable development through innovative solutions throughout the supply chain

Collaboration is key

Need for integrated approach where designers, marketers, technologists and manufacturers can work together

Need for changing the mindset and the traditional protective attitude of textile processors

SUSTAINABILITY NEEDS INNOVATION

THE ROLE OF CERTIFICATION IN

ENSURING INTEGRITY OF ACTIONS AND CLAIMS

EFFECTIVE SOLUTIONS ARE NOT ENOUGH

• ‘Green’ market growing at a rapid pace

• Incentive for businesses to capitalize on the growth in whatever way they can and risk of fraud

• Lack of consistent use of terms

• Consumer confusion and distrust of sustainability claims

• Uneven playing field for companies that are doing it right

• Regulations are getting stronger

• Limited resources and uncertainty of businesses on how to verify product claims

• Multiple methods of verification leads to inefficiency and increased confusion at all levels

• Stakeholders expect transparency

INTEGRITY IS KEY

Integrity in business is about more than just purity of

intentions: it means understanding and taking all of the necessary steps to ensure that positive change is being achieved for the environment and/or communities. This involves understanding the sustainability issues being addressed, having a life-cycle approach, and taking steps to verify the truth and accuracy of all claims being made, and being transparent.

Standards • OE 100 and OE Blended • Global Recycle Standard (GRS) • Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) • Content Claim Standard (CCS) • System improvements Training and Education • Guides and brochures on labeling laws, standards, and the certification process • Resource to textile companies and organizations needing support or guidance on certification issues • Presentations at industry events, and participation in other organizations initiatives. Stakeholder Engagement • Consortium on Organic Cotton Integrity • Partnering in a study to evaluate the cost and effectiveness of certification and/or a tracking service

Yarn

Spinners

Fabric

Mill

Garment

Maker Brand

RM

RM

RMW

RM

RM RM

RM

TC

TC

TC

TC

TC

TC

TC

TC

TC

TC

TC

Gins Raw

Material

Source

RM

RM

RM RM

RM

RM

RM

RM

RM

RM

RM

OC

TC

Brand

Standard +

Certification Body

RAW MATERIALS CERTIFICATION

Organic standards

Recycled standards

Responsible forestry standards

PROCESS CERTIFICATION

• Standards

• Life cycle assessment/inventories

CCS

02. Preconditions for the granting and maintenance of a license to Licensee to use the Lenzing brands are that: (i) Lenzing has received a sample of each of Licensee’s final products, for which Licensee intends to use the Lenzing brands (“Contractual Products”) together with a completed and duly signed application form (as provided in the enclosure of this License Agreement) for each of the Contractual Products, (ii) either the Contractual Products themselves or the fabrics and textiles used by Licensee to manufacture the Contractual Products are assigned with a specific fabric certification number of Lenzing, and (iii) the fabrics, garments and hometextile products (for blankets and towels 30 % in the pile) contain a minimum of 30 % TENCEL® and yarns, fabrics and garments do not contain blends with man-made cellulosic fibers of competitors.

CONTENT CLAIM STANDARD

• The CCS is a third-party certified standard that verifies the amount of a given raw material in a product.

• It is a chain of custody standard that allows companies to stand behind the claims they are making about their products.

• It requires that each organization along the supply chain takes sufficient steps to ensure that the integrity and identity of the raw material is preserved.

• The CCS can be used to support any raw material input

• It does not validate any claims about a product beyond the amount of a specific material that is in it.

• There is no consumer-facing logo for the CCS.

Being able to verify a specific content claim is a fundamental step in ensuring product integrity.

Sup

ply

Ch

ain

cer

tifi

ed t

o C

CS

Yarns

Fabrics

Sewn Goods

Dyeing/Finishing

Final Product for sale to consumers

Designated Raw Material

OE 100 OE Blended GOTS GRS SCS Recycled

CCS

Raw materials supported by the standard

Organic cotton Organic cotton Organic fibers Recycled materials

Recycled materials

Any material

Chain of custody tracking system

Transaction certificates

Transaction certificates

Transaction certificates

Transaction certificates

Auditable traceability practices

Transaction certificates

Environmental issues addressed in processing

None None Chemical use, water treatment, environmental policy

Chemical use, water treatment, environmental policy

None None

Social issues addressed in processing

None None Based on ILO norms

Based on ILO norms

None* None

Label claims allowed * note that there are specific criteria in each standard for when the claims can be made

‘Made with organically grown cotton’ or ‘Made with 100% organically grown cotton’

‘Made with X% organically grown cotton’

‘Organic’ or ‘Made with X% organic materials’

‘Made with recycled - raw material – X% pre-consumer and Y% post-consumer’

‘Made with X% recycled , Y% pre-consumer and Z% post-consumer content’

None

Logo None

Notes *Can be combined with SCS Fair Labor Standard

Thank you! Anne Gillespie Director of Industry Integrity Textile Exchange membership@TextileExchange.org www.TextileExchange.org

2011 Sustainable Textiles Conference to be held in September 2011 in Barcelona, Spain