Techniques of Pruning

Unit 33

Introduction Horticulture

To remove dead, diseased, insect-infested, or broken branches

To change the size or proportion of the plant.

To develop a special form or shape, as in hedge pruning and topiary and espalier work.

To remove wilted or dead flowers and seed pods.

To rejuvenate a declining shrub.

Pruning saw: has a coarse teeth setting, can cut through green wood or dead wood without pinching the saw

Lopping shears: used for cutting larger branches

Hand shears: clippers that have one blade and a piece of metal or have two blades and are used like scissors.

• Pole pruner: has a saw and a hook, used to remove branches 10-12’ overhead.

• Chain saw: used extensively to remove large branches that are 3” or more in diameter

• Power pole pruner:: a small chain saw on an extended handle that is used to remove overhead branches.

Thinning: removal of certain branches from a plant to open up the plant. Used when you want to keep the natural shape.

Heading back: the removal of the end section of the plant branches at the same height.

Renewal pruning: old branches that are large and unproductive are removed.

Root pruning: involves cutting off all the lateral roots of the plant with a sharp spade in a circle around the stem.

Cutting at the proper angle:

Cut the plant stem at a 90 degree angle.

When?:

It depends upon when the plant flowers or bears fruit.

Nandina: Prune the oldest canes to the ground to start new growth. Prune to thin out the plant

Oleander: Prune the faded flower clusters. Remove the top branches to induce new growth and to control the size of the plant

Privet: Prune to control shape and size.

Rhododendron: Pinch the flower truss after blooming to prevent the formation of seed pods. If they are permitted to set seed, additional energy is required from the plant to produce new growth After pinching, the plant will produce new growth faster and set more flower buds for blooming the following year.

Hemlock: Prune in the early spring before new growth develops. This stimulates thicker growth and helps to control plant size and shape.

Spruce: Prune to one-half of their new growth candles in August to result in a fuller tree.

Fir: Prune to one-half the length of the candle. Growth may be retarded by removing the tip bud in the spring before the candle develops.

Yew: Prune after the new growth has hardened in the spring. Yews may be pruned in the summer if necessary to control plant growth.

Andromeda: Prune to remove dead faded flower clusters in late spring. The new shoots should be pinched back to shape the plant. This will cause the plant to develop new growth.

Aucuba: Pinching back results in a thicker plant with more shape. If some of the leaves have turned black from winter burn, remove them.

Arborvitae: Prune before new growth starts in the spring. Do not prune beyond the green leaves, since this will result in a permanent brown area.

Pine: Prune about one-half of each candle in June. This promotes thicker plant growth and the production of new side shoots.

Azalea: Prune after flowering to promote the production of new growth. Pinching back new top growth stimulates heavier blooming.

Boxwood: Pruning boxwood is important to keep the plant compact and full. Prune in the fall/early winter by removing short branches with hand pruners. Remove diseased branches, but be sure to dip the hand pruners in a 70% alcohol solution between each cut to prevent the spread of the disease. Do not use hedge shears, since this causes the leaves to turn brown on the end where the leaf is cut.

Holly: Prune various types of holly in December so that the branches can be used for holiday decorating. Select and cut the branches to develop the plant’s natural shape and form. Holly may also be pruned in early spring before new growth begins.

Mountain Laurel: Prune to encourage growth of new shoots. Oddly shaped, tall, or leggy plants may be pruned to the ground to start new growth.

When pruning, be sure that the natural shape and form of the plant is maintained.