Table Saw Cabinet - Wood Woodworking Plans] Table Saw... · PDF filePlans N O W page 1...

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Transcript of Table Saw Cabinet - Wood Woodworking Plans] Table Saw... · PDF filePlans N O W page 1...

  • Plans N O W page 1 1998, August Home Publishing Co.

    Table Saw CabinetMAGAZINE

    Woodsmithfrom

    This cabinet is just what Ive alwayswanted for my table saw. It addsweight and stability, it rolls awayfor storage, it has a sawdust col-lection system in the cabinet, and itturns all the wasted space underthe saw into much-needed storage.

    But before getting into the con-struction of the cabinet, somethingshould be said about its size. Thiscabinet will comfortably support aSears 10" table saw or a Delta(Rockwell) 10" Contractors Saw.(The overall width of the cabinet issized to fit under the saw withextension wings.)

    The height of the cabinet shownhere is 231/2" (with casters). Thisputs the working height of both theSears and Delta saws at 361/4"(which is the same as the Sears sawon a Sears stand, but 2" higher thanthe normal Delta setup.)

    CUT PIECES TO SIZEI started work on the cabinet by cuttingthe six main pieces (the top/bottom, ends,and dividers) to final size from a 4x8 sheetof 3/4" birch plywood. (Birch is a little moreexpensive than CDX fir plywood, but thefinal appearance is worth it.)

    !/2 !/2 x 3 - 72

    !/2 !/2 x 3 - 72

    !/2 !/2 x 5 - 72

    !/2 !/2 x 5 - 72

    !/2 !/2 x 5 - 72

    !/2 !/2 x 5 - 48

    !#/16 !/2 x 3 - 72

    !#/16 !/2 x 5 - 72

    !#/16 !/2 x 5 - 72

    #/4 PLYWOOD 48 x 96 !/4 MASONITE 48 x 48

    NOTE: CUT -THICK TRIMSTRIPS FROM WASTE

    !/4

    ALSO REQUIRES PEGBOARD 12 x 24!/8

    M

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    M

    M

    M

    M M

    O O

    N

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    P P

    P P O OV V

    W

    F F F

    A

    A

    B

    C

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    G

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    J

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    Y Y

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    Q Q Q Q

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    T T

    K K K K U

    L L L L

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    H

    TOP/BOTTOM. First, cut the top/bottompieces (A) to a length of 39" and to a widthof 233/4", see Fig. 1.

    ENDS. Next cut two end pieces (B and C)to a length of 20" and to the same width asthe top/bottom pieces (233/4"), see Fig. 2.(Note: These pieces are wider than they

    are long, see grain direction in Fig.5.)

    DIVIDERS. Finally, cut the twodividers (D and E) to a length of1713/16" and to a width of 231/2", seeFig. 3. (Note: These dividers are1/4" narrower than the other piecesto allow for a 1/4" back.)

    RABBETS AND DADOESOnce the six major pieces werecut to size, I laid out the positionsof the rabbets and dadoes used tojoin them together.

    Its important to lay out thesecuts so there will be mirrored sets.To keep things straight, I markedthe front and back edges of eachpiece, and also the face that willhave all the cuts, see Fig. 5.

    BACK RABBETS. Start by layingout and cutting rabbets for the 1/4"Masonite back. These rabbets are

    on the inside back edge of the top/bottompieces (A) and the inside back edge of bothends (B and C), see Back Rabbet Detail inFig. 4.

    Note: To keep things simple, all of therabbets, dadoes, and grooves for the basiccabinet are cut to a common depth of 1/4",only the width varies.

    MATERIALS LIST

    Overall Dimensions: 231/2"h x 40"w x 241/4"dA Top/Bottom (2) 3/4" ply. x 233/4 - 39B Left End (1) 3/4" ply. x 233/4 - 20C Right End (1) 3/4" ply. x 233/4 - 20D Left Divider (1) 3/4" ply. x 231/2 - 1713/16E Right Divider (1) 3/4" ply. x 231/2 - 1713/16F Drawer Runners (16) 1/2 x 3/4 - 13G Separators (2) 3/4" ply. x 121/2 - 175/16H Shelf Cleats (4) 13/16 x 1 - 175/16I Back Panel (1) 1/4" Mas. x 1713/16 - 39J Shelves (2) 3/4" ply. x 73/4 - 121/2K Sm. Drwr. Fronts (4) 13/16 x 31/4 - 117/8L Lrg. Drwr. Fronts (4) 13/16 x 51/4 - 117/8M Sm. Drwr. Sides (8) 1/2 x 31/4 - 133/4N Lrg. Drwr. Sides (8) 1/2 x 51/4 - 133/4O Sm. Drwr. Backs (4) 1/2 x 23/4 - 111/4P Lrg. Drwr. Backs (4) 1/2 x 43/4 - 111/4Q Drawer Bottoms (8) 1/4 Mas. x 111/4 - 13R Catcher Fr/Back (2) 13/16 x 2 - 103/8S Catcher Sides (2) 13/16 x 2 - 181/8T Catcher Runners (2) 1/4" Mas. x 11/4 - 185/8U Catcher Cleats (2) 13/16 x 11/4 - 21V Door Stiles (2) 1/2 x 11/4 - 173/16W Door Rails (2) 1/2 x 11/4 - 107/8X Door Panel (1) 1/8" peg. x 107/8 - 153/16Y Caster Pads (4) 3/4" ply. x 4 - 5

    CUTTING DIAGRAM

  • BOTTOM RABBETS. Next, lay out and cutthe rabbets to join the bottom to the ends.These rabbets are on the bottom edge ofboth end pieces (B and C), see BottomRabbet Detail in Fig. 4.

    Note: The width of these rabbets shouldequal the actual thickness of the plywoodwhich is usually a little shy of 3/4" for hard-wood plywood. But to keep things simple,all measurements are shown as 3/4".

    TOP DADO. Now lay out the position ofthe dadoes that are used to join the top (A)to the ends (B and C). To determine thelocation of these dadoes I wanted to planahead to allow enough space for the draw-ers below it. This requires an overall open-ing of 175/16" for two 31/4"-high drawers andtwo 51/4"-high drawers with a 1/16" gapbetween each drawer and the cabinet.

    When I had this measurement I workedfrom the bottom edge up - allowing 3/4" forthe bottom rabbet (refer to Fig. 2), plus175/16" for the drawers, plus 3/4" for the thick-ness of the top (A). This left 13/16" as themeasurement from the top edge to the topof the dado, see Fig. 2. (This position cre-ates a raised edge to keep things from slid-ing off the cabinet, refer to photo.)

    DRAWER RUNNER DADOES. After the topdadoes are cut, there are four more dadoesfor the drawer runners in the end pieces (Band C) and dividers (D and E), see Figs. 2and 3. However, the problem with layingout these cuts is that youre not workingwith the same measurements on the endsas on the dividers. The ends have to accom-modate the top and raised edge thatextends above the top.

    To lay out the first (top) runner dado onthe ends (B and C), measure down 3" fromthe top edge. Then continue to work yourway down laying out the remaining dadoesas shown in Fig. 2.

    Note: All of the measurements for thepositions of the dadoes (shown in Figs. 2and 3) are taken from the top edge of theworkpiece to the top edge of the dado. Thisis the same measurement needed when set-ting up the saw - its the measurement fromthe fence to the dado blade.

    RUNNER DADOES ON DIVIDERS. The toprunner dado on the dividers (D and E) isonly 15/16" from the top edge, see Fig. 3.

    Note: For ease of construction on a tablesaw, weve shown all of the runner dadoesgoing all the way to the back of the cabinet.But the drawers only run part of the wayback. To get a slightly neater appearance,you could use a router and stop the dadoes14" from the front edge.

    SEPARATOR GROOVES. After the runnerdadoes are cut, lay out and cut the verticalgrooves for the separators (G) that dividethe drawer compartments from the shelfcompartments, refer to Figs. 7 and 8 onpage 3. Locate these grooves 14" from thefront edge of the ends and dividers, seeFigs. 2 and 3.

    A

    FIGURE 1

    23 #/4

    !/4 #/4 x DIVIDER DADO

    (SEE FIG. 4)

    12 !/4 12 !/439

    !/4 !/4 x BACK RABBET

    (SEE FIG. 4)

    TOP/BOTTOM

    FRONTEDGE

    FIGURE 21 #/16

    3

    6 %/16

    9 %/820

    14 !%/16

    FRONTEDGE

    !/4 #/4 x DADO

    (SEE FIG. 4)

    ENDS

    1423 #/4

    !/4 #/4 x SEPARATORGROOVE (SEE FIG. 4)

    !/4 !/4 x BACK

    RABBET(SEE FIG. 4)

    !/4 #/4 x BOTTOMRABBET

    (SEE FIG. 4)

    BACKRABBETDETAIL

    BOTTOMRABBETDETAIL

    TYPICALDADO/

    GROOVEDETAIL

    !/4

    !/4

    !/4

    !/4

    #/4

    #/4

    FIGURE 4

    FIGURE 3DIVIDERS

    !/4 #/4 x SEPARATORGROOVE (SEE FIG. 4)

    !/4 #/4 x DADO

    (SEE FIG. 4)

    FRONTEDGE

    1 %/16

    4 %/8

    7 !%/16

    13 !/4

    17 !#/16

    14

    23 !/2

    A

    A

    EB

    C

    D

    FIGURE 5

    LEFTEND

    LEFTDIVIDER

    BOTTOM

    TOPRIGHT

    DIVIDER

    RIGHTEND

    Plans N O W page 2 1998, August Home Publishing Co.

  • Plans N O W page 3 1998, August Home Publishing Co.

    DRAWER RUNNERS

    After the rabbets, dadoes, and grooves arecut in the six main pieces, work can beginon the drawer runners.

    Start by cutting 16 runners (F) 1/2"-thickand to width to match the dadoes, see Fig.6. To help guide the drawers into place, Isanded a slight chamfer on the front cornerof each runner, see Detail in Fig. 6.

    After the runners are cut to size, gluethem in so the front of each runner is flushwith the front edge of the end or divider.

    SSEEPPAARRAATTOORRSS AANNDD SSHHEELLFF CCLLEEAATTSS

    Theres a separate compartment in the backof the cabinet that has space for shelves, seeTop View in Fig. 7. The shelves are held upwith L-shaped pin-style shelf supports, seeDetail in Fig. 12.

    SEPARATORS. To hold the shelf supports(and also give the cabinet rigidity), I cut 3/4"plywood separators (G) to fit between theends and dividers, see Figs. 7 and 8.

    SHELF SUPPORT CLEATS. Then to hold theshelf supports at the back of the cabinet, cutfour cleats (H) from 4/4 stock (13/16" actualthickness) to a width of 1" and the samelength as the separators, see Fig. 7.

    SUPPORT HOLES. After the separatorsand cleats are cut to size, drill 1/4" holes forthe pin-style shelf supports, see Fig. 7. Tokeep the holes aligned in all the pieces, I laidout the holes centered on one of the cleatsand then used that cleat as a drilling guidefor the other cleats and separators. (Note:Since the separators fit into 1/4"-deepgrooves, center the holes in the separators3/4" in from the edges.)

    To make the pieces completely inter-changeable (which makes assembly easi-er), I drilled the holes completely throughthe cleats and separators and kept the holesa uniform distance from each end.

    MOUNTING HOLES. Next, to mount thecleats to the cabinet, drill three counter-sunk holes in each cleat, see Fig. 7.

    ASSEMBLYOnce the holes are drille