T Qatar Issue 22
-
Upload
debrina-aliyah -
Category
Documents
-
view
224 -
download
0
Transcript of T Qatar Issue 22
-
8/13/2019 T Qatar Issue 22
1/5
-
8/13/2019 T Qatar Issue 22
2/5
-
8/13/2019 T Qatar Issue 22
3/5
66 T Qatar: The New York Times Style Magazine
Arena Qatar
TO DISCUSS DELVAUXis to discuss Belgium. Charles Delvaux
made his first trunk luggage in 1829, a year before the founding of
Belgium as a nation. And as Belgium grew, Delvaux became
intertwined with the nations identity, prospering through political
and industrial revolutions, and surviving through colonialism,
migration and war. Its really Belgo Belge, such a strong Belgian
identity, says Belgian fashion icon Didier Vervaeren.
The relationship has a strong root among its people that is hardly
rivaled by any other in the world. Handbags and leather pieces are
inherited from generation to generation, and the gifting of a
Delvaux piece between family members marks a significantmilestone like marriage or childbirth. It has always been the
symbol of luxury in Belgium. My grandmother had several Delvaux
handbags and they were the treasured heirlooms in the family,
says Damien Carlier, a Belgian fashion designer based in Qatar.
With a 184-year legacy, Delvaux is the oldest leather
manufacturer in the world. But while its younger contemporaries
from neighboring France have gone on to become global luxury
icons, Delvaux remains steadfastly local in its reach. Beyond its
deep entrenchment in Belgium, very little of the brand is known
outside the country. The brands initial international efforts to open
stores in Los Angeles and Paris in the 80s were not successful
except for a small cult following in Japan.
But those early missteps were no deterrent to the billionaire
Fung brothers of Hong Kong, who saw the legacy and potential in
Delvaux. In 2011, the brothers through their investment companyFung Brands Limited, acquired a controlling stake in the company
from the Schwennicke family who had run Delvaux for the past 80
years. It was a much-needed partnership to help renew Delvauxs
image on the global stage and to highlight the houses atelier, which
The Awakening
BY DEBRINA ALIYAH
Belgian pride is poised tomake a global impact.
To Accessorize
NEW DIRECTIONClockwise from
left: Marco Probststeering the
house toward newhorizons; the
construction of acrocodile Brilliant
bag; artcollaboration with
Arnaud Koolfeaturing
illustrations of realpeople with
Delvaux bags.
COURTESYOFDELVAU
X
-
8/13/2019 T Qatar Issue 22
4/5
Sub Section
67November-December 2013
Every new piece is designed as an interpretationfrom the houses design archive, which consists of
more than 3,000 handbags.
UNDENIABLELEGACY From topleft: bags awaitingafter-sales service;Princess Paolavisiting the atelier inthe 1980s; theoriginal Delvauxtrunks feature amplybowled lids to allowrainwater to run off;
a small bag madefrom Delvauxsspecialized fish skinleather; the Venetianhallway as thecenterpiece of newDelvaux boutiques.
specializes in master leather craftsmanship. This was, after all, a
house that holds Belgiums royal warrant for leather
goods, and manufacturer of some of the best leathers in
the world.
Following the acquisition, Marco Probst, previously of
Hugo Boss and Chloe, was appointed as Delvauxs CEO.
In the span of two years, international sales for the house
have risen from 4 percent to 20 percent with the opening
of new points of sale in Beijing, Seoul, London, Paris and,
most recently, Doha. It was the opportunity of a lifetime,
says Probst, to helm a brand that has such storied history
and archive. I still get goose bumps every time I speak
about the legacy of the brand, he quips.
The new direction of Delvaux has seen an increased
commissioning of collections that are more contemporary
and colorful. Every new piece is designed as an
interpretation from the houses design archive, which
consists of more than 3,000 handbags dating back to the
days of founder Charles. The Madame bag, the au courant
hit among global style makers (Katie Holmes and Sienna
Miller are fans), was first conceived in 1977, while the houses
signature Brilliant bag was designed in 1958. Every brand wants to
fall back on a history as its marketing strategy, and here we have
years of archival works to refer to. Isnt it a dream to be legitimate,
without making up stories? asks Probst.
The quality and craftsmanship of Delvauxs handmade bags have
been essential to its longevity and brand loyalty in Belgium. The
after-sales department is an integral part of its atelier, where bags
as old as 40 years are still being sent in to be refurbished. The
preservation of this skill has recently become a priority, with an
increasing interest from young Belgians. Delvauxs senior
craftsman Mohammed Benelcaid, who teaches evening classes in
leatherworking at Brussels Institut des Arts et Metiers, says the
renewed interest may have been caused by the economic crisis,
resulting in young people becoming more aware of the value of
quality work. Such know-how is priceless. Wagering on artisanal
quality and know-how required audacity, but artisanal excellence
remains the pillar of Delvaux, says Kaat Debo, director of the
Fashion Museum Province of Antwerp, and this could well make
the difference in the current economic climate.
It is in this new economic cl imate that Delvaux is hoping to make
its mark, appealing to the growing set of clients who are seeking
more than the usual flashy names. The absence of a distinguishable
monogram and continuous collaborations with esteemed yet low-
profile artists on various projects have given Delvaux a sort ofsecret handshake status. As Tina Craig of BagSnob puts it, when
you carry a Delvaux, you are not flaunting the fact that youre
carrying a high-end designer. It is understated chic at its very best
only insiders will know the house behind your bag, but the
-
8/13/2019 T Qatar Issue 22
5/568 T Qatar: The New York Times Style Magazine
To AccessorizeArena Qatar
DESIGN QUALITYFrom top: inspirationsketches made bythe design team of
the 1950s; newtechniques aredeveloped in theatelier; the leatherlibrary at The Arsenalwhere skins datingback over 30 yearsare kept, allowingprecise matching ofleather for after-sales repair work.
quality will be recognized. This understatement continues in the
houses new store concept designed by Luxembourger artists
Martine Feipel and Jean Bechameil in collaboration with retail
space architect Tiziano Vudafieri. Breathing new life into Delvauxs
decades-old boutique at Galerie de la Reine in Brussels, the designduo combined their conceptual installations with traditional
Flemish furnishings, setting the mold for future Delvauxs boutique.
Delvaux was like a sleeping beauty coming back to l ife and it was
very interesting for us, says Feipel, theres a discretion and
softness to the brand, which we could relate to.
But heralding the brand has not been a walk in the park for
Probst. The initial response to the acquisition by Fung Brands
garnered backlash. This brand is an institution; whatever it does,
it is watched by Belgians, Probst explains, There was a
misunderstanding, and people felt it was an attack on national pride
being acquired by an outsider. And then there was the issue ofinternal change. Having operated under very few owners, the brand
had developed a certain business process that was very focused on
the Belgian market. Probst had to introduce a new model to cater to
the new visions. However, his efforts have paid of f. Recent artistic
projects including handbag art installations in 10 Corso Como, Milan
and at the iconic Manneken-Pis statue in Brussels have revived
positive interest among Belgians. New presence on social media
and the opening of new points of sale
internationally have in turn
increased nationalism. This brand
is 184 years old; I dont want to bethe guy who ruins it! Probst says.
In the heart of Brussels lies The
Arsenal, a former maintenance and
repair depot for military vehicles that has been
refurbished as the headquarters and atelier of
Delvaux. The Arsenal is also home to the ultimate
showpiece for Delvaux, its tribute museum, which
houses the earliest luggage trunks made by
Charles himself. That these pieces are still in
existence in mint condition is the biggest testament
to the quality of work produced by the house. Themuseum is a private venue, open only by invitation,
and is part of the brands work in providing an
engaging experience with clients. This is a brand
that needs introduction and communication for
new clients to understand the where, how and
why, Probst says.We are not just asking people to
buy this or that; we are not an in-your-face brand.
Communication and education are on-going, even to the
younger generation of Belgians, especially with artistic
collaborations. This long tradition of working with external
creative personalities, including Martin Margiela, continues. Thevarious collaborations, resulting in art illustrations, installations,
and keepsake booklets, represent very personal relationships
with clients and help highlight the playfulness and relevance of
the brand. Most recently, Belgian painter and illustrator Arnaud
Kool conceived the idea of Venetian window illustrations for the
houses spring 2014 presentation at Paris Fashion Week. At the
showroom, there was an unexpected air of cheerful interaction
between fashion editors and guests with the brand. The bags,
instead of being perched on a pedestal, were dangling on guests
arms as photos were snapped and laughter was shared. It was
endearing, just like the time the founder of Belgian cafe Le PainQuotidien, Alain Coumont, recounts his earliest memory of the
house: I was 10, and I had used an old Delvaux bag as my
fishing gear sack.
Delvauxs first store in the Middle East is now open at Porto
Arabia, The Pearl-Qatar.
This brand is 184 years old, Probst says. I do not
want to be the guy who ruins it!