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SWAHILI Issue #64 April/May 2014 www.virtualtanzania.com In-flight magazine for At 50 Tanzania Celebrates Stronger and Stable Union Tribute to Syedna MohammedBurhanuddin A Symbol Of Piety, Peace For Dawoodi Bohras Indian Diaspora In Zanzibar Archipelago Zanzibar’s Indian Settlement Ground Control In Paradise A Pictorial Book On The Journey On The Way The Little-Known History Of Space Age Zanzibar

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Transcript of Swahili Coast 64

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S w a h i l i S w a h i l i

Issue #64April/May 2014

www.virtualtanzania.com

In-fl ight magazine for

At 50 Tanzania Celebrates

Stronger and Stable

Union Tribute toSyedna MohammedBurhanuddinSyedna MohammedBurhanuddin

A Symbol Of Piety, Peace For Dawoodi Bohras

Indian Diaspora In Zanzibar Archipelago

Zanzibar’sIndian Settlement

Ground Control

In Paradise

A Pictorial Book OnThe Journey On The Way

The Little-Known History Of Space Age Zanzibar

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Inside Guide

New Discoveries

LETTER FROM DCMA

Stone Town Map

Zanzibar Listings

Tide CalendAr

Dar es Salaam Map

Dar es Salaam and

Arusha Listings

Eco-Tourism Tanzania

contents

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At 50 Tanzania Celebrates Stronger and Stable UnionA Pictorial Book On The Journey On The Way

Tribute to Syedna MohammedBurhanuddinA Symbol Of Piety, Peace For Dawoodi Bohras

Zanzibar’s Indian SettlementIndian Diaspora In Zanzibar Archipelago

Ground Control In ParadiseThe Little-Known History Of Space Age Zanzibar

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PUBLISHED AND PRINTED BY ZG DesignPO Box 3181 Zanzibar, TanzaniaTel: 024 [email protected]

PUBLISHERJaved [email protected]

EDITORAdnan [email protected]

PHOTOGRAPHERJaved JafferjiAdnan Abbas

ContributorsAlly Saleh pg 26Jon Rosen pg 50

ADVERTISING AND MARKETINGMahfoudh [email protected]

DESIGNPriscilla Fernandes

Swahili CoastIssue #64April/May 2014

karibu sana

Freelancers NeededIf you’ve found any interesting things in Zanzibar or the Swahili Coast that you feel deserves promotion – small community & non-profit development projects, eco-tourism projects, restoration projects and the like – please let us know or, better yet, write an article for us and send it with some nice high resolution pictures to [email protected]. If we decide to publish your article we’ll even pay you a little for your efforts.

As we at Swahili Coast prepare ourselves for the heavy rains due this time of the year, we’ve found ourselves between the parties and festivals that punctuate the Zanzibar calendar. And because we don’t have our gondolas with us to navigate Stone Town, we’ve decided to highlight some political and historical stories of Zanzibar that are less well known than perhaps they could be.

In this edition we have managed to bring together a few rather odd articles, as well as the usual points of interest and lesser known facts. This year has been a very important year for Zanzibar, politically and historically. As we celebrated 50 years of Zanzibar revolution in the beginning of 2014, this year also marks the 50th anniversary of union between Tanganyika and Zanzibar which entered into force on 26th April, 1964. Ally Saleh talks about how Tanzania has now proudly lived to celebrate its fifty years of existence. You will also find an article about Late Syedna Mohammed Burhannuddin, the revered spiritual and temporal head of the Dawoodi Bohra Muslims. We’ve also included an article on Zanzibar’s Indian Settlement read more on page 44 and another on the moves of Ground control on the island, Jon Rosen talks about the little-known history of space age Zanzibar, see more on page 50. You will find a lot of useful information in our inside guide section, whether you’re living in Zanzibar or just visiting. And don’t forget to have a look at our New Discoveries too. It’s also packed with information we think you should know. We hope you enjoy the read, and this time in Zanzibar.

Enjoy, the Swahili Coast Team

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Unsolicited manuscripts, artwork, transparencies and photographs are submitted at the sender’s risk. Whilst every care will be taken, the publishers cannot accept responsibility for ac-cidental loss or damage. All advertise-ments are taken in good faith and whilst every care is taken in compiling the contents of this magazine, the publish-ers assume no responsibility in effects arising therefrom. No content, including the advertising artwork (© ZG Design 2011) and photographs may be repro-duced without written permission from the publishers.

ISSN 0856-6690

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Est in 1906

WINE & TAPAS BAROur bar is designed in an eclectic style of new and old, enjoy our selection of fine wines and delicious homemade tapas overlooking the bustling street.

ELIAS JEWELLERSThe area boasts a combination of modern and traditional design with an in-house gemstone

cutting area and a tanzanite wall of fame.

THE POST CAFEA casual chic setting, the Post café features

delectable dishes. Our delicious and balanced menu has something for every appetite.

DELI SHOPWe offer great variety of imported gourmet products such as italian and spanish cheeses, raw and sandwich

meats, mushrooms, pastas and much more...

ART GALLERYIts collection of well over works of art includes

historical and contemporary paintings, sculptures, furniture and photographs by Local artists.

LEMON GRASSOur selection of authentic, Thai dishes and

Zanzibar spices is sure to satisfy even the most discerning palates. Opening May 2014

T: +255 778 809009

T: +255 778 933144

T: +255 778 809009

T: +255 778 933144

T: +255 689 052557

ZANZZIBAR

SHANGANNNNNIIISTOTOT

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12 FEB 1906

12 FEB 1906

12 FEB 1906

12 FEB 1906

12 FEB 1906

12 FEB 1906

12 FEB 1906

The post A5.indd 1 4/1/14 2:59 PM

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A Tanzania-based non-profit organization, Responsible Tourism Tanzania is the first ever program to audit and measure the sustainability and responsibility of hotels and tourism properties in the country.

After going through a rigorous verification procedure, four businesses were awarded with certificates of compliance: Isoitok Camp and Manyara Wildlife Safari Camp both from Manyara Region, the Blue Oyster Hotel from Zanzibar.

*If you have an event or project that you would like publicised in the inside guide for free, please contact us: [email protected]

inside guide

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JOIN THE TEAM

AWARDS

workopportunity

ZG Design is looking for a graphic designer to join their team in Zanzibar. If you’re interested, please send a CV, cover letter and a sample of your work to [email protected]

We are also looking for a marketing/sales person. You must be flexible and be able to think and work independently, and you must be fluent in written and spoken English. To apply, send your CV to [email protected]

Responsible Tourism TanzaniaProducts Certified For the First Time In Tanzania

Carl G. Salisbury awarded MBE by Prince William

Swahili Coast photographer and director, Javed Jafferji, is looking for models for a new photography art book he is working on. If you are a model with an interest in working with Javed, please contact him on [email protected]

models wanted

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Carl G. Salisbury, Director of ZanAir and also British Honorary Consul was awarded his MBE for British interests and Services in Zanzibar. The "Most Excellent Order of the British Empire" or simply "Order of the British Empire" is and order of chivalry given to individuals for services to Great Britain and the Commonwealth countries. He was awarded the MBE at Buckingham Palace on Friday the 14th of March at 12:00pm along with 80 other individuals for their services to Great Britain. The service was carried out by The Prince of Wales, with an entourage of 5 Beefeaters, 3 Gurkhas and a variety of other official palace personnel.

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Showrooms: 307 Shangani Zanzibar, 544 Shangani Zanzibar, Diamonds Dream of Zanzibar,DANAQA WORLD CHIC, Notting Hill - London

+255 (0)777414686, [email protected], www.eliasjewellers.comP. O. BOX 3334, Zanzibr, Tanzania

cleancontemporaryuniquetimeless

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Cave The Cluba perfect hangout for the young

ZanzibarPhotographic Journey

50 Years Of The Revolution

New Discoveries

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Book Cafe Former President of Zanzibar Dr Abeid Amani Karume with First Vice President of Zanzibar His Excellency Maalim Seif Sharif Hamad jointly launched the book celebrating 50 years of Revolution in Zanzibar. The publisher, Javed Jafferji who is acclaimed photographer and has published almost 60 books on Tanzania. This is surely one of his best; the book itself is a pictorial journey about how Zanzibar has now proudly lived to celebrate its fifty years of existence post revolution. The launch was then followed by a picture exhibition of over 100 historic pictures.

We are proudly introducing our new club under the management of Al-Minar Hotel called as “CAVE THE CLUB”.

We offer a wide range of facilities which includes a Shisha lounge, mouthwatering mocktails, fresh juices, shakes, wide variety of pre-plated snacks, main course, Free Wi-Fi spot, Music on request, Parties and social events are also entertained. A spa and massage center inside the club will be opening very soon. Opening Hours: - 7.00 a.m. to 10.00 p.m.

The Book Café is a book-themed café that offers a relaxed ambience and casual dining on an extensive snack plus a vide range of coffees, milkshakes and smoothies. Customers of The Book Café experience value-for-time in a Zanzibari comfort settings. A diversified range of reading materials is available- customers can browse through any of several hundred local, foreign books and magazines.

Book Cafe

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SHOPS, FOOD & DINING

The Post is nestled within the stone town’s busy high street on one of Zanzibar’s most treasured landmarks which consists of Wine & Tapas Bar, Elias Jewellers, The Post Cafe, Art Gallery, Deli Shop and Lemon Grass.

The Wine & Tapas Bar is designed in an eclectic style of new and old with a selection of fine wines and delicious home made tapas. Open from 12pm to 12am.

Elias jewellers opens their largest and most exclusive jewellery showroom designed by gemran interior designer Magnus Rauchergehoft, the area boasts a combination of modern and tradiotional

Spa Now Open

Welcome to

THE POSTdesign with an inhouse gemstone cutting area and a tanzanite wall of fame.

The Post Cafe - a casual chic setting which features delectable dishes such as home made burgers, sandwiches, salads, wraps and home baked goodies. Whether you’re grabbing a quick snack, or sitting down to lunch, our cafe has been designed to surprise and excite the taste buds!

The Art Gallery is a collection of well over works of art includes historical and contemporary paintings, sculptures, furniture and photographs by Tanzanian and international artists. In addition to its permanent collection, the Post Art Gallery hosts visiting bimonthly exhibitions.

The Deli Shop is located in the back of the Tapas Bar which offers a great variety of imported gourmet products such as italian and spanish cheeses, raw and sandwich meats, mushrooms, pastas and much much more...Open daily from 10 am to 6 pm.

Lemon grass is a restaurant with a selection of authentic, Thai dishes and Zanzibar spices is sure to satisfy even the most discerning palates. Guests may dine out on the balcony, and there’s also a Thai dining room ideal for corporate or social events.

SPA & RELAXATION

Ocean Paradise Spa is now open and fully operational.The Spa has facilities such as 4 Treatment Rooms,

Steam Room, and Sauna, 2 Fresh Water Jacuzzis, Skin Product Boutique, Gym and Salon.

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For those of you who love music you need to be aware of The DCMA -Zanzibar's one and only trea-sured Music Academy, and the unique role it plays in Zanzibar's educational and cultural landscape.

To give you a flavour of events so far this year: as well as the ongoing music education continually provided we delivered an exciting array of workshops at 'Busara Extra" : drumming , Ngo'ma, traditional dancing and Open Mic.

International musical and educational collabo-rations are actively cultivated and so far this year we have hosted professional artists and musicians from: Austria, Julia Summers,- singer, Harald Lassen, from Norway,- jazz and saxophone, Gunnar Augland, from Norwaya- drummer, Aniela Frey, flute player from Switzerland and Christina Martinez, clarinet player from Spain. Each artist has made outstanding contributions in extending both students's, and the public' s knowledge, experience- and enjoyment of a variety of global music traditions.

At Sauti Za Busara, 3 DCMA bands performed distinctive and unique sets. Baladna' - a repertoire of Arabic and Swahili music, "Swahili Vibes", a hot, spicy set of fusion music, and "Swahili Encounters" joined forces with "Taarabband" from Sweden to wow the crowd.

For the pleasure of local Zanzibar music lovers the DCMA performs regular Sunday and Thursday night

concerts at the DCMA, , and on Thursday night at the "Jimkana" the "DCMA Presents ....." "Musique Du Monde" ", an innovative evening of music fusion.

The DCMA abroad. The "Taarab Quintet" per-formed in Istanbul at the "Commemoration of the Ottoman Empire in Africa" event. Follow up tours are planned for 2014 to include a return to La Reunion for the band 'Safar', and "Taarab Quintet" will per-form at a Sacred Music festival, again in Istanbul. On CD, a remarkable collaboration of the DCMA and the Norwegian Radio Orchestra, "Symphonic Taarab", is available now at the DCMA.

Future artistic collaborations with France, Russia, Japan, Denmark, Germany, Norway and mainland Tanzania are headlined for 2014.

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letter from DCMA

The Dhow Countries Music Academy Zanzibar (DCMA) is a non - governmental, not-for-educational and cultural organisation registered in March 2001. DCMA opened Zanzibar’s first music school in September 2002 providing music lessons as well as instruments at minimal cost to anyone interested in studying music related to their culutural background or acquiring mastery of an instrument. Special emphasis has been placed on teaching traditional music instruments and styles such as Taarab, Beni and Kidumbak. The overall aim of DCMA is to preserve and promote the musical heritage of Zanzibar and Dhow region. www.zanzibarmusic.org

Music For Music Lovers-the DCMA

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Africa GemsShangani Street, Stone Town,Zanzibar.M: +255 774 195194T: +255 24 2237434E: [email protected]

Zanzibar Silver ArtHurumzi Street,Stone Town,Zanzibar,Tanzania.M: +255 776 529990E: [email protected]

Gem CentrePO Box 3121,Kenyatta Street(Near MBC Bank)Shangani, Zanzibar,Tanzania.T: +255 24 2232937M: +255 774 195194E: [email protected]

GemCentre

Tanzanite TreasurePO Box 3121,Shangani Street,Forodhani areanear NBC Bank.Zanzibar, Tanzania.T: +255 24 2232987M: +255 652 040415

TANZANITE

TREASUREInspiration Colourfull Desire

Manufacturer of Gold & Diamond Jewellery

Village of Tanzanite

Tanzanite

Branch at Gold Zanzibar Beach House & Spa

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A pictorial book on the journey on the way

BY Ally Saleh

This year marks the 50th anniversary of the union between Tanganyika and Zanzibar which entered into force on 26th April, 1964 after the leaders of two independent countries – Tanganyika and Zanzibar-

Julius Nyerere and Abeid Amani Karume respectively signed The Articles of Union.

The name Tanzania was the preferred one from the immediate name of United Republic of

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At 50 Tanzania CelebratesStronger and Stable Union

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Tanganyika and Zanzibar. And Tanzania has now proudly lived to celebrate its fifty years of existence.

The country has been under stewardship of four leaders namely Julius Kambarage Nyerere, Ali Hassan Mwinyi, Benjamin Mkapa and Jakaya Kikwete who have made Tanzania a super brand that stands out from the crowd. It not only a name of a country but a power house for peace and tranquility.

Tanzanians have a lot to celebrate. Ours is the only union that has survived in Africa and which has been going from strength to strength. It has always wished to see one Africa and one people and that is why it has strived for African liberation and has championed for both regional unity as well as that of

the continent. It has stood for a good cause anywhere in the world.

It will be celebration for resiliency, unity, diversity and communality. The country has been able to weave together over 120 tribes with contrasting cultures and now proudly stand under one umbrella and united by one language – Kiswahil- helping to build patriotic citizenry.

As a country Tanzania has had many ups and downs. It lost out in her struggle to build a socialist society, has not been successful in distribution of wealth and thus poverty stands as main challenge to individual development. It has gone into war when her sovereignty was at stake.

LEFT: Early days of the Chake Chake, Pemba main market.as multi ethnic society freely intermingling an indication of an understanding society.

ABOVE: It is a market day. Farmers line up at the Zanzibar fruit market with their products to find potential buyers either directly or through auction for the highest bidder (top left); Two huge elephant tusks infront of.an Arabic door in the heart of the Stone Town at a time when Zanzibar was the centre for slaves, ivory and spices (left); The New Africa Hotel in Dar es salaam at its embryonic stage. It began as a hotel targeting the high end and colonial class. The hotel now is a state of the art property laying strategically at the hear of the city centre. (bottom left).

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In 50 years it has scored plus in the provision of social services. More schools, more universities, more hospitals, more roads, more water and more electricity. All services coming closer to the people.

With the finding of oil and gas and the strengthening of the good governance through the new upcoming constitution the future looks promising. The new constitution hopefully to be unveiled in April will give Tanzania a new birth and a stronger union to take the nation to better times.

From the new constitution the buck will be passed from the hands of the of one generation that has helped to shape this country to the next generation eagerly awaiting to take up their roles knowing that Tanzania belongs to them.

This will be a year-long celebration that should serve to remind Tanzanians of their past challenges but also their future opportunities.

The 50 year journey of the Union will be presented in coffee table book that will detail in pictures the path that Tanzania has gone through the actions of its heroes and icons; its beauty and resources; its major local and regional decisions and many defining moments in the life and vitality of this country.

This follows the publication of 50 Years Book of the Zanzibar Revolution that was launched jointly by Former President of Zanzibar Amani Karume and First Vice President of Zanzibar Seif Shariff Hamad.

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LEFT: An aerial view of the central district of Dar es salaam including the harbor probably taken late 50’s or early 60’s. The St Joseph Cathedral stands out in the crowd laying adjacent the jetty that accommodates boats plying between Zanzibar and Dar es salaam.

ABOVE: Retiring President Julius Nyerere inspecting his last guard of honour in 1985 having announced that he was stepping down. He led Tanganyika to independence in 1961 and was instrumental to the 1964 Union with President Abeid Karume of Zanzibar. Nyerere was Union President and Commander in Chief for 21 years. (top); President Julius Nyerere congratulating his immediate successor Ali Hassan Mwinyi for having been nominated to be CCM’s candidate for the post of President in the 1985 General Elections. Nyerere was stepping down after 24 years in power. Mwinyi became the second President of Tanzania and his term lasted from 1985-1995 (bottom left); Benjamin William Mkapa receiving military salute after being as the third President of Tanzania at the National Stadium, Dar es salam. Mkapa was to become the first president under multi party politics introduced in the country. He contested and worn against Augustine Mrema of Tanzania Labour Party (TLP) and Ibrahim Lipumba of Civic United Front (CUF) (bottom right).

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THIS PAGE: Military training in the era of the Zanzibar owned Jeshi la Ukombozi (JLU) formed after the January 12, 1964 and dissolved after the formation of the Tanzania Peoples Defence Force as a result of the April 26, 1964 Revolution (top left); The coffin of the slain President of Zanzibar Abeid Amani Karume being carried towards his last resting place at the headquarters of Afro Shirazi Party which he helped found in 1957. Karume was assassinated on April 7, 1964 (top right); Long lines of people who wanted to say their last good bye to their beloved leader first President Mwalimu Julius Nyerere whose body was laying in state at the National Stadium in Dar es salaam (bottom left); Tanzania People’s Defence Force (TPDF) fighters with anti air craft missile at the front line during the 1979-1980 War against Uganda (bottom right).

NEXT PAGE: President Jakaya Mrisho Kikwete waving to the cheering crowd as he enters the National Stadium in Dar es salaam to grace the 50th anniversary of Tanganyika independence (top); President Dr Ali Muhammed Shein inspecting a good of honor during the occasion of marking 50 years of Zanzibar Revolution at the Amaan Stadium (bottom).

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Tribute toSyedna Mohammed BurhanuddinA symbol of piety, peace for Dawoodi Bohras.

BY Shabbir Hussein

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He was credited with guiding the 1.2 million strong Dawoodi Bohra community out of the shadows and leading them on to the stage of modernity and prosperity.

Syedna Mohammed Burhanuddin, the spiritual and temporal head of the Dawoodi Bohra Muslims who died in Mumbai at an age of 102, provided dynamic leadership to the largely business-oriented community which claims 100 per cent literacy. He was known for insightful teachings.

Revered as the 52nd Dai-al-Mutlaq by the Bohras, the Syedna’s love for environment, flora and fauna was legendary. He was also an Arabic scholar.

Born in Surat, the Syedna was educated by his illustrious father, the late Syedna Taher Saifuddin.

Syedna Taher Saifuddin personally trained the future Syedna and later affirmed him as his successor.

In 1965, Syedna Mohammed Burhanuddin succeeded his father at the age of 53, heralding a new era for the Bohra community.

Among his major contributions was to supervise and support the community’s literacy efforts through 400 educational institutions in the world to impart religious, spiritual and secular education.

The pride of place belongs to the Al-Jamiah Al-Saifiah Arabic Academy in Surat - an over two-century-old Arabic university - and its new campus built by the Syedna in Karachi in 1983.

The Syedna exhorted his followers to conduct businesses combining mercantile and Islamic principles.

With a view to foster healthy businesses, he institutionalized the Quranic concept of interest-free loans.

A few years ago, the Syedna established the Burhaniyah Business Counselling Centre in Mumbai to provide modern business solutions.

The Syedna strongly believed in giving back to nature through ecological conservation programmes and preventing environmental degradation.

Scores of agriculture, horticulture, apiculture projects, greenhouses, terrace farming, plantations and afforestation projects were taken up under the auspices of the Burhani Foundation (India). In 2011, he threw his weight behind efforts to conserve the sparrow.

On the social front, the Syedna encouraged and institutionalized the tradition of mass marriages to curb wasteful expenditure on opulent marriages.

In cities like Mumbai, he launched low-finance housing schemes.

At a macro-level, the Syedna took direct interest in the redevelopment of old, dilapidated buildings housing over 4,000 Dawoodi Bohra families in a small chunk of Bhendi Bazaar in south Mumbai.

The Syedna undertook the mammoth task of construction, renovation or restoration of several ancient and world heritage mosques, mausoleums and other buildings of historical significance worldwide.

Chief among these were the ninth century mosque of Imam Hakim, Al-Jame Al-Anwar in Cairo, and ancient buildings in Yemen, Syria and India.

The Raudat Tahera in Mumbai is a marble mausoleum of the Syedna’s father where the entire Quran is inscribed on the inner white walls in letters of gold and precious stones.

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Among the Indians in Zanzibar the Parsees and Goans formed fairly average sized communities. We had earlier talked about the Parsees. We now bring up the Goans. They were hardworking and flamboyant people. In actual fact they did not consider themselves Indians as Goa then was under the colonial rule of the Portuguese. Also with their Christian background and fluency in English they could easily connect themselves with the colonials. No doubt the Barretos and Carvalhos featured prominently in Zanzibar’s banks and administrative set ups. Some were specialized as tailors. A Goan tailor shop in the stone town was a common sight. They had their twin towered cathedral with statues of Virgin Mary located in Vuga beside the Samachar Printing Press across Portuguese street. What comes to mind is the spectacle of their funeral procession in Zanzibar. There was somberness about it. The cortege would be led by a pole bearer followed by a black cart with wreaths laid over it, and then the

relatives carrying the coffin over their shoulders. The mourners in their black attire walked behind in dignified manner.

Some of Zanzibar’s prominent doctors like Demello, Menezes, D’silva and Maitra were Goans. The Goans also excelled in sports. They had their ‘Goan Club’ and ‘Goan Institute’. The burly James D’lord was one of Zanzibar’s hardest hitter of the cricket ball. The Goans along with Hindus and Comorians were dominant in field hockey. Their school St. Joseph Convent run by the Catholic Mission was one of Zanzibar’s most prestigious school that admitted besides Catholic only selective non Catholic pupils. The school was located behind the High Court which was on the main Shangani Road where many Goans resided. The road stretched up to the Post Office at the far end of Portuguese street where mainly the Hindu community resided.

Indian diaspora in Zanzibar Archipelago

BY Peter Smith

Zanzibar’s Indian Settlement

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The Hindus in Zanzibar were an enterprising community, and foremost among them were the Bhatias. It is said that the brothers Jeraj and Eebji Shivji were the first to settle in Zanzibar. Later their surname Shivji changed to Swaly which is derivative of the term ‘Swahili’. Narandas Swaly, a reputed contractor, whose expertise our forefathers sought in having their walls and ceilings bricked up, and Vinod Swaly, a very popular teacher at the Agakhan Secondary School, were the descendents of Eebji Swaly.

Here we need to point up a significant and historic incident. It was the visit of Mahatma Gandhi to Bhatia Mahajanvadi at Ziwani en route from South Africa to India. There is an interesting anecdote relating to this episode. Gandhiji refused to enter the Bhatia Mahajanvadi building as there was a notice saying ‘Bhatia sivay koine andar aavavani raja nathi’ (only Bhatias are allowed to enter) . That really embarrassed the committee. The notice was immediately removed and after persuasion Gandhiji consented to enter the building. Years later in 1948 Gandhiji was assassinated and sadly this time his ashes brought to Zanzibar when a large number of Asians gathered at the dock as a mark of respect for this great Mahatma. The ashes were then taken to Jinja (Uganda) to be scattered in the Nile.

The Hindus observed diwali with great pomp and ceremony. The diwali illumination brightened up Shangani/Portuguese/Hurumzi (Vaddi Bhajaar) streets and they burst with crackers. On the eve of Diwali ‘chopra puja’ was held in every shop. Even Muslim shopkeepers participated in this ‘puja’. Every Indian shopkeeper had his ‘namu’ (accounts) done in ‘Gujarati’ and he closed his books to transfer the balances into the new ones on the Hindu New Year. Also the rupee was Zanzibar’s legal tender. The Bhatias were held in very high esteem by the Sultan and some even acted as advisers to him. The Jetha Leela private bank located in Portuguese street may be recorded as one of the oldest financial institutions in East Africa. The street also housed the clinics of the well known Hindu doctors - Dr. Goradia, Dr. Mehta and Dr. Patel who were immensely popular with the settlers.

Zanzibar was indeed blessed with great professionals and formidable intellects. The round clock protruding from the building on Shangani signified Zanzibar’s High Court. Its Chief Justice, Sir John Grey, formed an authority on Zanzibar’s judicial system. Other prominent personalities included Judge Green, Magistrate Husain Rahim and Registrar Husain Nazarali. Zanzibar boasted a Secular Court and a Sharia Court. Sheikh Omar Smet and Abdullah Saleh Farsi were Chief Kadhi for the Sharia Court. The Talati brothers of ‘Wiggins and Stephens’ and the Lakha brothers were some of Zanzibar’s leading lawyers. Wolf Dourado went on to become the Attorney General in the post Revolution phase.

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Zanzibar’s oldest newspaper was a weekly Samachar published by Fazel Master whose establishment dated back to 1903. The bilingual (English and Gujarati) paper was circulated on Sundays only. Such another was ‘Zanzibar Voice’ by Ibrahim Kassam. Also Rati Bulsara entered with his very own Adal Insaaf. The Government Press besides the gazette delivered Maarifa on Thursdays.

Portuguese street adjoined Sokomohogo/Mkunazini streets which were largely occupied by the Bohoras who were old settlers and dealt in hardware, crockery or had tin/glass cutting workshops. They had as many as three mosques which were situated at Kiponda, Mkunazini and Sokomohogo. Their gym/club was the finest with excellent facilities.

The late His Holiness Syedna Taher Saifuddin paid a visit to Zanzibar in the late 1950s. On that occasion the Bohora Scout troop displaying their classic band marched majestically through the streets of stone town. At night Mkunazini and Sokomohogo were transformed into a glitter. The spacious Bohora School compound exhibited spectacular replica of the ‘Sefi Mahal’. In adherence to the salutary advice by Syedna a great number of Bohoras staked their livelihood in Zanzibar. Presently theirs is the largest community abounding in prosperity..

There was great concentration of Kutchi Sunnis too in Mkunazini/Sokomohogo. They comprised Memon, Khatri, Sonara, Sumra, Surya, Loharwadha, Girana, Juneja, Sameja,

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Chaki, Kumbhar, Hajam, Bhadala and such Kutchi artisan/smith communities. There were also Sunni communities other than Kutchi such as Kokni (Muslims from Maharashtra) and Surti Vora (Muslims from Surat, Gujarat). Equally early settlers were the Kutchi Sunnis. As a matter of fact our forefathers were brought to Zanzibar in dhows navigated by the Kutchi Sunnis. In the instance of Kutchi Kumbhars (a pottery class) some inhabited Makunduchi. They built up contacts with the locals there, spoke fluent Kiswahili and attended school in Makunduchi where medium of instruction was Kiswahili. The owners of ‘Sura Store’ and ‘Muzammil’ who were destined to flourish in the post Revolution phase are the progeny of this ancestry.

Portuguese street also converged on Hurumzi (Vaddi Bhajaar) where the Hindu and Jain temples were located. The street extended up to Saleh Madawa’s shop or the monumental Ismaili Jamaatkhana that stretched all the way from one road to another. It formed terminus for several by-ways and lanes that headed towards the Khoja dominated Kiponda/Malindi. In the early days the Ismailis had jamaatkhana even in Sateni, Bumbwini and Chwaka. Obviously the Khojas (Ithnashris & Ismailis) formed the bulk of the settlement (amply evidenced by the earlier days’ census)) and were scattered all over Zanzibar including Ngambu, Bububu, Mfenesini, Bumbvini, Chwaka and Makunduchi.

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Ground Control In ParadiseThe little-known history of space age ZanzibarBY JON ROSEN

Hidden along an overgrown dirt road amid an isolated patch of farmland, the rusted aluminium shed does anything but exude a vibe of scientific triumph. Crumbling, riddled with graffiti, and long-ago gutted of wires and other valuables, it could barely sell for scrap at a small-town junk yard. Go figure, then, that it once helped launch man to the cosmos.

Though the era now seems worlds away in a Zanzibar that was soon to be transformed by revolution, for four years in the early 1960s this was one of sixteen global sites used by the United States to track its first manned space flights, part of an operation known as Project Mercury. Established in 1959 by the newly-created National Aeronautics and Space Administration (NASA), Mercury sought to “investigate man’s capabilities in space,” in an era dominated by a race for technological superiority between cold war rivals the United States and the Soviet Union. Beginning with unmanned launches, the project produced the celebrated “Mercury

Seven” – the first batch of U.S. astronauts. These included Alan Shepard, who on May 5, 1961 became the first American in space, and John Glenn, the first American to orbit the earth, on February 20, 1962 (The Soviet cosmonaut Yuri Gagarin had already accomplished both with his Vostok1 Flight on April 12, 1961).

Long before any of these feats, however, NASA had realized that the dawn of the space age required not only the finest in state-of-the-art rocketry, nor a group of young pilots with the Right Stuff (to quote the title of the Tom Wolfe book and subsequent academy-award winning film about the Mercury astronauts) for space travel. In order to communicate from Earth with this first crop of American star voyagers – even control the spacecraft from the ground if the astronaut became incapacitated – it was also necessary to establish a network of global tracking stations. To ensure a maximum of ten minutes orbit time between contact with one ground station and the next, sixteen facilities were needed:

050

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two on ships at sea and the rest on land – including the site on Zanzibar. In June 1960, with the support of Sultan Khalifa ibn Kharub, the United States purchased a tract of farmland near the village of Tunguu, 15km east of Stone Town. Within nine months, the station was up and running, staffed by technicians from the Bendix Radio Corporation, a U.S. government contractor.

“For the American technicians, Zanzibar was a favoured assignment,” says Torrence Royer, who spent two years on the island as a child while his stepfather worked at the station. “Zanzibar was one of the few sites around the world where families were allowed to come along. I remember snorkelling on the weekends and staying up at night to watch for Russian and American satellites. It was a great place to be a kid.”

According to Royer, one highlight of Zanzibar’s short-lived space age was the triumph of Glenn, who circled the Earth three times before splashing in the Atlantic aboard his spacecraft, Friendship 7. Shortly after, Glenn and his wife paid a visit to Zanzibar.

“That was quite an achievement,” says Royer. “If they couldn’t orbit the earth, they couldn’t take any of the next steps in space exploration. Afterwards, we had quite a party.”

A triumph for the astronaut and his on-ground staff alike, Glenn’s orbit, along with three remaining Mercury missions, would help pave

the way for the space age’s future – including, just seven years later, man’s footsteps on the moon. This future, however, would not be tracked from Zanzibar. Though the station continued to operate after the end of the Mercury program, most of its employees were swiftly evacuated when violent revolution struck the islands in January 1964. Three months later, President Abeid Amani Karume of the revolutionary government – already swinging toward the influence of the Soviet Union – announced that the station would be removed by the end of April, claiming it “endangers our island, our relations with neighbours, and the whole of Africa.” The Zanzibar Mercury site was soon left to crumble, forgotten by most islanders, with the possible exception of then 18-year-old Stone Town resident Farrokh Bulsara. By the time he reached fame as the lead singer of the rock band Queen, he was known by a most suspicious pseudonym: Freddie Mercury.

44 years after its closure, walking through the blighted shed, one can still imagine the tracking station humming with life: plaid-shirted engineers in 1960s crew cuts manning oversized computers flanked with rows of tubes and strange mechanical objects; fighting through the static as a small, manned, bell-shaped capsule circled the Earth just beyond the edge of the atmosphere.

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Gizenga Street

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Pipawaldi StreetKenyatta Road

Suicide Alley Shangani Street

Vuga Road

Victoria Street

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Mapinduzi Road

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Jamhuri Gardens

House Of

Representatives

Koko

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Malindi Road

Kiponda

Hurumuzi Street

Changa BazaarHurumzi

Hamamni

Kaj

ific

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i Str

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House Of

Wonders

The Old Fort

Forodhani Gardens

Shangani Street

Palace MuseumMzingani Road

Vuga Road

State House

High Court

Victoria

Garden

Nyumba Ya Moto Street

Jam

atan

i Roa

d

Cathedral Street

Malindi Street

New Mkunazini Road

Mnazi Mmoja

Kisiwandui

Kibokoni

Vuga

Sokomuhogo

Mkunazini

Hamamni

Forodhani

Mchambawima

Vikokotoni

Hurumzi

KipondaDarajani

Kokoni

Malindi

Zanzibar Port

Kiponda

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Shangani

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Mercury’s Restaurant06 Bahari Restaurant09 The Silk Route Restaurant10 Old Fort Restaurant15 Radha Food House21 Louis Yogurt Parlour26 Zanzibar Coffee House Book Cafe36 Amore Mio Restaurant Six Degrees South45 Pagoda Restaurant52 La Spice Rendezvous60 La Taverna Restaurant60 Mistress of Spices Soko Cafe

stone town city guideH

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12 Clove Hotel13 236 Hurumzi14 Al Johari16 Karibu Inn17 Coco De Mar

Jambo Guest House Swahili House

Serena Inn Mazsons Hotel Mrembo Spa Chavda Hotel Dhow Palace Hotel Kisiwa House Africa House

St Monica’s Hostel Asali House

Jafferji House & Spa Mashariki Palace

Hotel Cinnamon Spa Maru Maru Hotel

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03 Precision Air/ Kenya Airways04 Lookmanji Curio Shop11 Zanzibar Curio Shop18 Upendo Means Love19 Zanzibar Gallery 23 Darajani Pharmacy25 Memories of Zanzibar 31 Mhamshu & Sons Pharmacy32 Coastal Travel Offi ces33 Abied Curio Shop35 New Karibu Pharmacy38 Tamim Curio Shop46 The Treasure Trove50 Kanga Kabisa61 Doreen Mashika Shop62 Mago East Africa63 Saifa Shop Fahari Blue Gems

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cultural02 Stone Town Cultural Centre59 Dhow Countries Music Academy

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historical34 Hamamni Persian Baths41 Tippu Tip House54 Old Portugese Arch56 Natural History Museum57 Peace Memorial Museum

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05 Shiva Shakti Hindu Temple30 St Joseph Cathedral44 UMCA Cathedral

religious5

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practical07 One Ocean Dive Centre08 Bahari Divers29 Shangani Post Offi ce42 FBME Bank53 Zanzibar Medical Group58 Mnazi Mmoja Hospital

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Suicide Alley Shangani Street

Vuga Road

Victoria Street

Kaunda Road

Hea

lth

Off

ice

Road

Benj

amin

Mka

pa R

oad

Museum Road

Mapinduzi Road

Benj

amin

Mka

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oad

Mku

nazin

i Stre

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Sokomuhogo Street

Thar

ia S

tree

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Kiponda Street

Dar

ajan

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Jamhuri Gardens

House Of

Representatives

Koko

ni Stre

et

Malindi Road

Kiponda

Hurumuzi Street

Changa BazaarHurumzi

Hamamni

Kaj

ific

hen

i Str

eet

House Of

Wonders

The Old Fort

Forodhani Gardens

Shangani Street

Palace MuseumMzingani Road

Vuga Road

State House

High Court

Victoria

Garden

Nyumba Ya Moto Street

Jam

atan

i Roa

d

Cathedral Street

Malindi Street

New Mkunazini Road

Mnazi Mmoja

Kisiwandui

Kibokoni

Vuga

Sokomuhogo

Mkunazini

Hamamni

Forodhani

Mchambawima

Vikokotoni

Hurumzi

KipondaDarajani

Kokoni

Malindi

Zanzibar Port

Kiponda

Baghani

Shangani

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Africa House Sunset Bar0777 432340Kisimani Bar (Chavda Hotel)024 2232115Mcheza Bar (Mtoni Marine)024 2250117Masahani Bar (Serena Inn) 024 2233051Tatu 0778 672772Wine& Tapas Bar 0778 809009

6 Degrees South0779 666050Amore Mio 0776 211071Archipelago Café Restaurant024 2235668Bahari Restaurant (Tembo Hotel) 024 2233005Baharia Restaurant (Serena Inn) 024 2231015Beyt Al Salaam0773 000086Book Cafe0774 164866Buni Cafe 024 2231919Chavda 024 2232115

Coco de Mer 024 2230852Darini (Kisiwa House)024 2235654Green Garden 0773 849636Hakuna Matata 0777 454892House of Spices0773 573727Le Spice Rendezvous 0777 410707La Taverna, Italian Café & Restaurant 0776 650301 Luis Yoghurt Parlour 0765 759579Livingstone Restaurant 0778 666841Mangapwani Seafood Grill 024 2233587Mercury’s 024 2233076Mistress of Spices (Jafferji House)077 3740888Monsoon Restaurant 0777 410410Mtoni Marine Restaurant 024 2250117Pagoda Restaurant 024 2234688Parachute (Opposite Airport) 0777 575566Radha Cafe (Mbweni)0774 599777

Radha Food House 024 2234808Sambusa Two Tables 024 2231979Sea View Indian Restaurant 024 2237381Soko Cafe0774 643638Stone Town Cafe 0773 861313 Spices Restaurant (Zanzibar Beach Resort) 024 2236033Tanzanite Inn 024 2232937The Post Cafe 0778 933144Tower Top Restaurant (236 Hurumzi) 024 2232784Zan Sushi 024 2250117Zanzibar Coffee House 024 2239319Zanzibar Fusion (Al Johari) 024 2236779Upendo Lounge/Restaurant 0777 244492

In Stone Town:236 Hurumzi 0777 423266Al Minar0779 666 690

bars

restaurants

hotels

Africa House Hotel0777 432340Abdalla Guest House Annex 0777 421845Al Johari 024 2236779 Beit Al Amaan/ House of Peace 0777 414364Beyt-Al-Salaam Boutique Hotel 024 2232 592Chavda Hotel 024 2232115Clove Hotel 0777 484567Coco De Mer 024 2230852Dhow Palace Hotel 024 2233012Flamingo Guest House 024 2232850Garden Lodge 024 2233298Hiliki House 0777 410131Hotel Kiponda 024 2233052Hotel Marine 0777 411102Jafferji House & Spa077 3740888Jambo Guest House 024 2233779Karibu Inn 024 2233058Kisiwa House024 2235654Market Lodge0754 641555Malindi Guest House 024 2230165Maru Maru Hotel024 2238516Mashariki Palace Hotel 024 2237232Mazsons Hotel 024 2233694Shangani Hotel 024 2233688St Monica’s Guesthouse 024 2230773Tembo Hotel & Apartments 024 2233005

zanzibar listings

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Zanzibar Coffee House 024 2239319Zanzibar Grand Palace Hotel 024 2235368Zanzibar Palace Hotel 0773 079222Zanzibar Serena Inn 024 2231015Zenji Hotel 0776 705592Upendo Lounge & Restaurant 0777 244492

Out of Stone Town:

BUBUBU:Imani Beach Villa 024 2250050Salome’s Garden 024 2250050 MTONI:Maruhubi Beach Village 0777 451188Mtoni Marine Centre 024 2250140MBWENI :Mbweni Ruins 024 2235478MAZIZINI:Zanzibar Beach Resort 024 2236033

Zanzibar Beaches:BWEJUU:Mustapha’s Nest 024 2240069Fontaine Garden Village 0713 419451Palm Beach Inn 0777 411155 Robinson’s Place 0777 413479Sunrise Hotel 024 2240170Twisted Palm Village 0776 130275 CHWAKA:Chwaka Bay Bungalows 024 2240289

CHUINI :Hakuna Matata Beach Lodge0777 454892Mangrove Lodge 0777 436954DONGWE:Baraza Resort & Spa077 444330Breezes Beach Club 0774 440884-5The Palms 0774 440881-2Dongwe Ocean view 0777 835515JAMBIANI:Blue Oyster Hotel 024 2240163Casa del Mar 0777 455446Gomani Guest House 024 2240154Kimte 024 2240212Pakachi Beach Hotel 0777 423331Visitor’s Inn 024 2240150Red Monkey Lodge 024 2240207KIZIMKAZI:Dolphin View Village 0777 865501Dolphin Shadow Guesthouse0777 495491Karamba Resort 0773 166406The Residence Zanzibar024 5555000KIWENGWA:Bravo Club 0777 414480Bluebay Beach Resort 024 2240241Kiwengwa Beach Club Village0777 414351Melia Resort0774 444477Sultan Sands 0774 444531Reef View Bandas 0777 413294Shooting Star Inn 0777 414166

KENDWA: Amaan Kendwa Beach Resort 024 2240026Kendwa Rocks 0777 415475La Rosa Dei Venti 0777 411314Les Toits de Palme 0777 418548Sunset Bungalows 0777 414647White Sand Bungalows 0777 425219MANGWAPANISea Cliff Resort & Spa 0767 702241MATEMWE:Azanzi Beach Hotel 0775 044171Matemwe Bungalows 0777 425788Kasha Boutique Hotel 0776 676611Matemwe Beach Village 0777 417250Nyota Beach Bungalows0777 484303

Kandili Villa 0776 676611MICHAMVI:Karafuu Hotel 0777 413647Kichanga Lodge 0773 175124Ras Michamvi Beach Resort0777 428178Sultan Palace 024 2240173NUNGWI:Amaan Bungalows 024 2240026Flame Tree Cottages 024 2240100Diamond La Gemma Dell’Est024 2240087Double Tree Hotel (Hilton) 024 2240476Essque Zalu077 8683960Langi Langi Beach 024 2240470Mnarani Beach Cottages 024 2240494

hotels

hotels

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Mango Airlines0774 305165Air Tanzania Corporation 024 2230213Auric Air0783 223334Coastal Aviation 024 2233112Emirates 024 2234950Ethiopian Airlines 0242231526 Fly 540 0769 540540Kenya Airways 024 2232041Oman Air024 5311111Precision Air 024 2234520ZanAir Ltd 024 2233670

Ferry CompaniesAzam Marine 024 2231655Flying Horse 0784 472497Sea Express Services 024 2234690Zanzibar Ports Corporation 024 2232857

Ras Nungwi Hotel 024 0040478Sazani Beach Hotel 024 2240014Star of the East024 2240175Z Hotel

0774 266266Smiles Beach Hotel 0773 444105PAJE:Arabian Nights Hotel 024 2240190Hakuna Majiwe

0777 454505Jaribu Beach Hotel0777 817716Kitete

024 2240226Kinazi Upepo 0777 497495Paje By Night 0777 460710Paje Ndame Village 0777 863421Paradise Beach Bungalows 024 2231387 PONGWE:Pongwe Beach Resort 0784 336181Santa Maria Coral Park 0777 432655PWANI MCHANGANI:Mchangani Beach Lodge 0773 569821Ocean Paradise Resort 0774 440990Mapenzi Beach Club 0774 414268Sandies Neptune Pwani Beach Resort & Spa 024 2233449Diamond Dream of Zanzibar 0757 619061 UNGUJA UKUU:Menai Bay Beach Bungalows0773 179244UROA:Tamarind Beach Hotel 0747 413709

Uroa White Villa0741 488520Zanzibar Safari Club 0777 410318Chumbe Island Coral Park 024 2231040Chapwani Private Island 0777 433102Mnemba Island 024 2233110PEMBA ISLAND:Bomani Guest House 024 2454384Fundu Lagoon 024 2232926Jondeni Guest House 024 2456042Le Taven Hotel 024 2452660Pemba Misali Sunset Beach 0775 044713Pemba Clove Inn 024 2452784Pemba Crown Hotel 024 2454191Sharook Guest House 024 2454386Swahili Divers Guest House 024 2452786The Manta Resort 0776 718852MAFIA ISLAND:Chole Mjini 0787 712427Mafia Island Lodge 022 2601530

Pole Pole 022 260 064

Mrembo Spa077 7430117Cinnamon Spa077 7908000Window to Africa (Jafferji House) 077 3740888

Aromas of Zanzibar0716 097681Art Gallery0778 933144Blue Gems0782 786000Doreen Mashika 0767 369777Gem Centre024 2232937Kanga Kabisa 0763 404396Kihaga Textile0774 223615Memories of Zanzibar 024 2239376Zanzibar Gallery 024 2232721Zanzibar Secrets 0774 000005Zawadi Chest 024 2231390

shops

airlines

ferries

spas

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DTB 024 2236930CRDB 024 2238193EXIM Bank 024 2237194/95

Egypt 024 2230726China 024 2232547India 024 2230720Mozambique 024 2230049Oman 024 2231235Sweden 077 7170471

ONE OCEAN:Bluebay Beach Resort 0777 414332Ocean Paradise 0777 453892Matemwe Beach Village0777 473128Melia Hotel0774 164816Neptune Pwani0779 557087

Ambulance 112Fire 111Police 999Madema Police Station 024 2230771Malindi Police Station 024 2230772 Police headquarters 024 2230246 HOSPITAL Afya Medical Center 024 2231228Al-Rahma Hospital 0774 889933

CLINICDr Mehta’s Hospital0777 419999Driving Doctors077 3110220Stone Town Medical Clinic 077 7777112Zanzibar Medical Group 024 2233134 24 hour emergency 0777 410954International Medical Centre of ZNZ 0773 904230Dental &Eye Care : Zanzibar HELP Foundation0779 272 600

Ferry timetable:The following ferry details are liable to change without notice and we strongly advise you to confirm with the ferry company prior to booking. Times may also differ on Sundays.

TO ZANZIBAR07.30 • 10.3012.00 slow boat14.00 • 16.00

TO DAR ES SALAAM07.00 • 10.00 • 13.00 • 15.45

Barclays Bank 024 223773/4 Federal Bank of the Middle East 024 2238936National Bank of Commerce 024 2231541People’s Bank of Zanzibar 024 2231118

banks

consulates

dive centres

Stone Town024 2238374

KENDWA:Zanzibar Watersports 0773 235030

MAFIA ISLAND:Blue World Diving, Kinasi Lodge 0787 726147MICHAMVI:Karafuu Beach Resort & Dive centre 0777 413647/8 NUNGWI:Divine Diving and Yoga0777 771914East Africa Diving 0777 420588Zanzibar Watersports,

Paradise 0773 781281Ras Nungwi Beach 0777 417316

PEMBA:DIVE 710, Fundu Lagoon 0774 438668Swahili Divers0773 176737

emergency

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Tide Calendar 2014APRIL

MAY DAY HIGH LOW HIGH LOW HIGH

DAY HIGH LOW HIGH LOW HIGHTue 1 5:00am / 3.93m 11:00am / 0.00m 5:16pm / 4.22m 11:27pm / -0.00mWed 2 5:35am / 3.82m 11:34am / 0.10m 5:50pm / 4.11m� u 3 12:01am / 0.15m 6:08am / 3.63m 12:07pm / 0.29m 6:24pm / 3.90mFri 4 12:36am / 0.39m 6:42am / 3.38m 12:40pm / 0.54m 6:58pm / 3.63mSat 5 1:11am / 0.69m 7:17am / 3.10m 1:13pm / 0.85m 7:35pm / 3.32mSun 6 1:48am / 1.01m 7:57am / 2.81m 1:50pm / 1.17m 8:20pm / 3.00mMon 7 2:34am / 1.32m 8:57am / 2.55m 2:38pm / 1.49m 9:30pm / 2.73mTue 8 3:47am / 1.57m 10:33am / 2.41m 4:10pm / 1.74m 11:09pm / 2.61mWed 9 6:10am / 1.59m 12:17pm / 2.49m 6:47pm / 1.66m� u 10 12:40am / 2.69m 7:29am / 1.37m 1:28pm / 2.73m 7:52pm / 1.38mFri 11 1:42am / 2.89m 8:12am / 1.12m 2:13pm / 3.02m 8:32pm / 1.08mSat 12 2:25am / 3.11m 8:46am / 0.87m 2:47pm / 3.30m 9:05pm / 0.80m Sun 13 3:01am / 3.32m 9:16am / 0.65m 3:19pm / 3.57m 9:36pm / 0.55mMon 14 3:34am / 3.50m 9:44am / 0.47m 3:48pm / 3.79m 10:07pm / 0.34mTue 15 4:05am / 3.63m 10:13am / 0.34m 4:19pm / 3.97m 10:37pm / 0.20mWed 16 4:37am / 3.69m 10:42am / 0.27m 4:50pm / 4.07m 11:09pm / 0.13m� u 17 5:10am / 3.68m 11:13am / 0.26m 5:23pm / 4.09m 11:42pm / 0.15mFri 18 5:45am / 3.60m 11:45am / 0.33m 5:59pm / 4.02mSat 19 12:18am / 0.26m 6:23am / 3.44m 12:21pm / 0.47m 6:38pm / 3.86mSun 20 12:58am / 0.45m 7:06am / 3.23m 1:01pm / 0.68m 7:25pm / 3.61mMon 21 1:43am / 0.71m 8:00am / 3.00m 1:49pm / 0.95m 8:24pm / 3.32mTue 22 2:40am / 0.99m 9:14am / 2.81m 2:53pm / 1.24m 9:46pm / 3.07mWed 23 3:59am / 1.20m 10:47am / 2.78m 4:34pm / 1.40m 11:18pm / 2.98m� u 24 5:47am / 1.20m 12:13pm / 2.96m 6:33pm / 1.26mFri 25 12:41am / 3.07m 7:08am / 1.00m 1:22pm / 3.26m 7:45pm / 0.94mSat 26 1:46am / 3.25m 8:03am / 0.74m 2:15pm / 3.58m 8:36pm / 0.61mSun 27 2:39am / 3.43m 8:47am / 0.51m 3:00pm / 3.85m 9:19pm / 0.35mMon 28 3:23am / 3.57m 9:25am / 0.33m 3:40pm / 4.04m 9:57pm / 0.18mTue 29 4:02am / 3.64m 10:02am / 0.24m 4:17pm / 4.12m 10:33pm / 0.12mWed 30 4:39am / 3.64m 10:36am / 0.23m 4:52pm / 4.11m 11:07pm / 0.14m

� u 1 5:13am / 3.58m 11:10am / 0.30m 5:25pm / 4.02m 11:41pm / 0.25mFri 2 5:47am / 3.46m 11:43am / 0.44m 5:58pm / 3.84mSat 3 12:15am / 0.42m 6:20am / 3.29m 12:17pm / 0.64m 6:31pm / 3.62mSun 4 12:49am / 0.64m 6:56am / 3.09m 12:51pm / 0.89m 7:06pm / 3.37mMon 5 1:26am / 0.88m 7:37am / 2.89m 1:29pm / 1.15m 7:49pm / 3.10mTue 6 2:08am / 1.12m 8:32am / 2.70m 2:14pm / 1.41m 8:46pm / 2.85mWed 7 3:02am / 1.34m 9:47am / 2.59m 3:21pm / 1.63m 10:04pm / 2.67m� u 8 4:24am / 1.47m 11:11am / 2.61m 5:21pm / 1.69m 11:28pm / 2.64mFri 9 6:07am / 1.42m 12:23pm / 2.78m 6:58pm / 1.50mSat 10 12:39am / 2.74m 7:12am / 1.25m 1:17pm / 3.02m 7:51pm / 1.22mSun 11 1:34am / 2.92m 7:57am / 1.04m 2:00pm / 3.29m 8:31pm / 0.92mMon 12 2:19am / 3.11m 8:34am / 0.82m 2:38pm / 3.56m 9:07pm / 0.65mTue 13 2:59am / 3.29m 9:08am / 0.63m 3:14pm / 3.81m 9:41pm / 0.41mWed 14 3:37am / 3.44m 9:42am / 0.47m 3:50pm / 4.01m 10:16pm / 0.23m� u 15 4:14am / 3.54m 10:16am / 0.35m 4:27pm / 4.14m 10:52pm / 0.12mFri 16 4:53am / 3.58m 10:52am / 0.31m 5:06pm / 4.17m 11:29pm / 0.11mSat 17 5:33am / 3.55m 11:30am / 0.34m 5:47pm / 4.10mSun 18 12:08am / 0.18m 6:16am / 3.45m 12:11pm / 0.45m 6:31pm / 3.93mMon 19 12:51am / 0.34m 7:05am / 3.32m 12:56pm / 0.65m 7:21pm / 3.68mTue 20 1:37am / 0.56m 8:03am / 3.16m 1:48pm / 0.89m 8:21pm / 3.39mWed 21 2:32am / 0.80m 9:11am / 3.05m 2:53pm / 1.14m 9:33pm / 3.13m� u 22 3:39am / 1.01m 10:28am / 3.03m 4:22pm / 1.30m 10:53pm / 2.97mFri 23 5:04am / 1.10m 11:44am / 3.14m 6:06pm / 1.24mSat 24 12:11am / 2.95m 6:27am / 1.03m 12:52pm / 3.33m 7:23pm / 1.02mSun 25 1:18am / 3.03m 7:30am / 0.88m 1:49pm / 3.54m 8:18pm / 0.77mMon 26 2:15am / 3.14m 8:19am / 0.72m 2:37pm / 3.73m 9:02pm / 0.57mTue 27 3:02am / 3.25m 9:01am / 0.59m 3:19pm / 3.87m 9:41pm / 0.42mWed 28 3:43am / 3.33m 9:40am / 0.50m 3:57pm / 3.94m 10:17pm / 0.34m� u 29 4:21am / 3.37m 10:16am / 0.47m 4:32pm / 3.94m 10:51pm / 0.32mFri 30 4:56am / 3.37m 10:50am / 0.50m 5:05pm / 3.88m 11:25pm / 0.36mSat 31 5:30am / 3.33m 11:25am / 0.57m 5:38pm / 3.78m 11:58pm / 0.44m

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dar es salaam city guideU

foko

ni R

d

Ocean Rd

Samora

Av

Samora

Av

Mansfie

ld

Kaluta

Mali

Jamhuri Street

Jam

hu

ri S

tree

t

Liby

a St

Ind

ia S

t

Nkru

mah S

t

Makunganya St

Mkwepu

Aggrey

Algeria

Sokoine D

r

Mission

Mosque St

Kitumbini

Fupi

Chaga

Bib

i Tit

i Mo

ham

ed S

t

Sokoine D

r

Garden A

v

Ghana Av

Ohio St Maktaba St U

pa

ng

a R

d

Kisutu St

Morogoro Rd

Msh

ihir

i

Jam

aat

Zanaki St

Olym

pio St

Magore St

Bibi T

iti M

ohamed R

d

Chusi

Sewa

Azikiwe St

Kibo St

Miram

bo St

Samora

Av

Luth

uli

Rd

Ocean

Rd

Oce

an R

d

Aly

kh

an

Rd

Malik St

Ali Hassan Mw

inyi Rd O

cean Rd

Se

a Vie

w R

d

Chim

ara S

t

Ind

ira

Gan

dhi S

t

Shaban Robert

Madaraka St

Kivuknoi Front

Magogoni St

Sea View Sea View

Ma

we

ni

St

Un

da

li S

t

Lugalo St

Ma

go

re S

t

Kit

on

ga

N

yan

G’ O

ro

Kibasila St

Ali

Ha

ssa

n M

win

yi R

d

34

23

20

22

21

19

1817

15

1610

11

33

30

31

28

26

27

32

24

25

29

14

1

2

12

13

34

5

67 9

8

places ofinterest

Dar es Salaam Harbour

Ilala Municple Council

Offi ces

Kisutu Market

Hindu Temple

Askari Monument

New Post Offi ce

Old Post Offi ce

St Josephs Cathedral

City Hall

United Nations

British Council

Central Library

UNICEF

Red Cross

Nyumba ya Sanaa Art

Gallery

Gymkhana Sports

Club

Las Vegas Casino

National Museum

Karimjee Hall

Aga Khan Hospital

Diamond Jubilee Hall,

Exhibition Centre

1

3

4

6

8

9

11

12

13

14

17

21

22

23

24

26

27

29

30

32

34

New Africa HotelHyatt Regency Hotel YMCA Serena Dar es Salaam Holiday Inn Courtyard Hotel

10

16

19

25

31

33

hotels &lodges

shops &offi ce blocks

TRA Maputo HouseNSSF TowerHaidery PlazaSukari HouseATC HouseRaha Towers International House

2

5

7

15

18

20

28

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Baraza Grill, Cafe & Bar (Holiday Inn) 022 2137575Q-Bar 0754 282474The Pub 022 2600893Club Bilicanas 022 2117869

Dar es Salaam:Addis in Dar 0713 266299Akemi0687 360360Anghiti 022 2701866Arabica Coffee Shop 022 2600288Azuma 022 2600893Bandari Grill (New Africa Hotel) 022 2117050Baraza Bar & Grill (Holiday Inn) 022 2137575Beijing Restaurant 022 2775141Cozy Garden 0754 089748Cynics Cafe 022 2138422

Epi d’Or 022 2136006Euro Pub 022 2617371Kivulini Restaurant (Holiday Inn) 022 2137575L’Arca di Noe’ 0713 601282La Dolce Vita 0713 782497La Trattoria Jan 0754 282969Maasai Bar 022 2600288Manchu Wok 0784 722227Mediterraneo Restaurant022 2618359Oysterbay Grill 022 2600133Serengeti 022 2112416Shooters Grill 0754 304733Sweet Eazy 0755 754074The Grill 022 2121074The Mashua Waterfront 022 2600380The Terrace 022 2600893Trade Winds 022 2112416White Sands Hotel & Resort 022 2647620

The Art of coffee 0732 996283Cafe X 022 9844575

Arusha:Cafe Bamboo Restaurant027 2506451Le Jacaranda 027 2544624Mezza Luna 027 2504381

Dar es Salaam:Akana Lodge 022 2775261Coral Beach 022 2601928Double Tree 022 2210000Golden Tulip 022 2601442Holiday Inn 022 2137575Kunduchi 022 2650050Kilimanjaro Hotel Kempinski022 2131111Mediterraneo Hotel 0754 812567New Africa Hotel 022 2117050Oysterbay Hotel 022 2600352Palm Beach Hotel 022 2122931

bars

restaurants hotels

Peacock Hotel 022 2120334Protea Apartments 022 2666665Q-Bar and Guest House 0754 261919Royal Palm Hotel 022 2112416Royal Mirage 0713 267788Sea Cliff Hotel 022 2600380Starlight Hotel 022 2119387Swiss Garden Hotel 022 2153219The Courtyard 022 2130130Urban Rose Hotel & Apartments 022 2127777White Sands Hotel & Resort 022 2647620The Souk 022 2600893

Arusha:Arusha Crown Hotel 027 2544161Arusha Naaz Hotel 027 2502087Hotel 77 027 2503800Impala Hotel 027 2508448Karama Lodge 027 2500359

dar es salaam & arusha listings

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Sky Aviation 022 2844410Tanzanair 022 2843131/3Tanzania Government Flights 022 2138638Zantas Air 022 2843351Tropical Air 024 2232511

Ferrie Companies:Azam Marine 022 2134013Africa Shipping 022 2113218Sea Express Services 022 2137049Sea Star Services 022 2139996Zanzibar Sea Ferries 022 2123324

Barclays Bank 022 2602674CRDB Bank 022 2117441National Bank of Commerce 022 2111970

Canada 022 2163300China 022 2667586Egypt 022 2113591France 022 2198800Germany 022 2117409Great Britain 022 2110101India 022 2600714Ireland 022 2602355Italy 022 22115935Kenya 022 2668285Malawi 0784 481741Mozambique 022 2124673Netherlands 022 2110000Norway 022 2118807Pakistan 022 2117630South Africa 022 2601800Spain 022 2662180Uganda 022 2667391USA 022 2668001Zambia 022 2125529Zimbabwe 022 2116789

Kibo Palace Hotel 027 2548852 Mount Meru Game Lodge 027 2553643Manyara Wildlife Safaricamp 0712 332211Ngare Sero Mountain Lodge 027 2553638Novotel Mount Meru 027 2502711Rivertrees Country Inn 027 2553894The Arusha Hotel 027 2507777The Ngurdoto Mountain Lodge 027 2555217

Airlines:Air India 022 2152642Air Malawi 0741 321315Air Tanzania Corporation 022 2110245-8Air Zimbabwe 022 2123526British Airways 022 2113820-2Coastal Aviation 022 2843293Emirates 022 2116100-3Ethiopian Airlines 022 2117063-5Kenya Airways 022 2119376-7KLM Royal Dutch Airlines 022 2113336-7South African Airways 022 2117044Swiss Air 022 2118870-2Yemen Air 022 2126036Zambia Airways 022 2115381

Air Charters:Coastal Aviation 022 2842700/01 Flightlink 022 2843073

transport

banks

embassies

Australia 000 61Austria 000 43Belgium 000 32Botswana 000 276Canada 000 1China 000 86Denmark 000 45Egypt 000 20Ethiopia 000 251Finland 000 358 France 000 33 Germany 000 49 India 000 91 Ireland 000 353 Italy 000 39 Japan 000 81

Netherlands000 31 Norway 000 47Oman 000 968Saudi Arabia000 966South Africa 000 27 Spain 000 34 Sweden 000 46Switzerland 000 41 Turkey 000 90UK 000 44USA 000 1 Zambia 000 260Zimbabwe 000 263

Kenya Nairobi 00 52Mombasa 00 511

Malindi 00 123

TanzaniaDar es Salaam022Arusha 027Kilimanjaro027Moshi 027Tanga 027Dodoma 026Morogoro 023Mwanza 028Tabora 026Zanzibar 024

Uganda Entebbe 00 42Kampala 00 41Jinja 00 43

international dialing codes

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• Choose wisely – make sure your tour provider is reputable. Endorse eco-tourism organisations whenever possible, this will encourage other organisations to consider the benefits of eco-tourism. • Let your tour operator know if they are doing something potentially damaging to the environment or to local people. • Think small! Staying in bed and breakfasts, village houses and locally owned accommodation benefits local families. • Don't buy large shells, turtle shells, or pieces of coral from street or beach vendors. These are mostly taken from endangered reefs and buying them actively encourages the destruction of Tanzania's ocean fauna. • Purchase local products instead

of imported items, but remember that many local handicrafts are carved from indigenous trees. Avoid hard woods such as ebony and bamba kofi as these trees take centuries to grow and are now endangered through extensive forest cutting.• Do not litter or remove anything from the places you visit – including shells.• Water is a precious resource; use it sparingly wherever possible.• Never touch, chase or harass the marine life or wildlife.• Visit the main tourist destinations but get off the tourist track too. Visit the places where the locals go. Try to learn some Kiswahili!• Don't give presents of money to children as this encourages begging.

eco-tourism Tanzania

• Please remember and respect that Zanzibar is a Muslim society. Don't walk around towns and villages dressed in bikinis, miniskirts or similar clothing. Women should cover their shoulders and wear garments that reach below the knee. Men should not go shirtless. Don’t go topless on the beaches! Swimwear is acceptable on tourist beaches, but not if there are fisherman or seaweed harvesters nearby.• Although alcohol is freely available, drunken behaviour is considered offensive.• Ask permission before taking pictures of people or private houses.• Be careful walking on beaches late at night or early in the morning. Don’t carry valuables or walk alone.• Don't accept tours or transport from unlicensed tour guide – their services are illegal and unreliable. Only use reputable tour agencies or official government guides.

WHEN IN ZANZIBAR

DID YOU KNOW?The highest and lowest points of the African continent can both be found in Tanzania. It is a well known fact that Mt Killimanjaro is the highest peak in Africa at 5,895 m. But few people are aware that the lowest point in Africa can be found at the bottom of Lake Tanganyika, which is 1,470 m deep. Pics by Javed Jafferji

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