Svalbard 92

127
For Dad, Thankyou.

description

Svalbard 92

Transcript of Svalbard 92

Page 1: Svalbard 92

For Dad,

Thankyou.

Page 2: Svalbard 92
Page 3: Svalbard 92

TERMINOLOGY

DMRT - Derby Mountain Rescue Team.

Ferry - FerrierFjellet (land mass)

Terry - TerrierFjellet (land mass)

Moraine - Material transported by a glacier and then deposited.

Moulin - A narrow, tubular shaft in a glacier that provides a pathway for water to travel from the glacier’s

surface to its bottom.

Pulks - A Scandinavian short, low-slung small toboggan used for transport, pulled by a dog or a skier.

Clag - Low cloud or fog.

Bergshrund - A crevasse that forms where the moving glacier ice separates from the stagnant ice above.

Dump - Temporary storage of unneeded food and equipment before venturing onto the Ice Cap.

Cwm - A natural depression in the surface of the land often with a lake at the bottom of it.

Gash - Rubbish or waste.

Page 4: Svalbard 92

Original diary.

Page 5: Svalbard 92

Handwritten in pencil.

Page 6: Svalbard 92

Photographs of Sarah, Luke and Bryony that Martyn took with him.

Page 7: Svalbard 92
Page 8: Svalbard 92

Letters and cards from Sarah that Martyn took with him and received whilst there.

Page 9: Svalbard 92

Luggage tags from travelling.

Page 10: Svalbard 92

Ice axe.

Page 11: Svalbard 92

Crampons.

Page 12: Svalbard 92

Primus stove.

Page 13: Svalbard 92

Reiter food.

Page 14: Svalbard 92

Plastic boots.

Page 15: Svalbard 92
Page 16: Svalbard 92

Russian hat made of rabbit for Sarah from Pyramiden.

Page 17: Svalbard 92

Whistle for Luke from Pyramiden.

Page 18: Svalbard 92

Arctic fox tail.

Page 19: Svalbard 92

Bullet casings, various.

Page 20: Svalbard 92

Pyramiden currency, very rare.

Page 21: Svalbard 92

Samples of rocks and stones Martyn picked up along the way.

Page 22: Svalbard 92
Page 23: Svalbard 92
Page 24: Svalbard 92
Page 25: Svalbard 92
Page 26: Svalbard 92

General map of central Spitsbergen.

Page 27: Svalbard 92
Page 28: Svalbard 92
Page 29: Svalbard 92

Area of activity.

Page 30: Svalbard 92
Page 31: Svalbard 92

From

left

to ri

ght;

Nic

k H

owar

th (D

oc),

Hel

en D

anie

l, M

arti

n 'D

oddy

' Dod

d, R

obin

Kno

tt, M

arty

n Tu

rner

, Mau

rice

Und

erw

ood,

Mar

tin

Cavi

ll

Wen

dy B

arre

tt, D

ot A

squi

th, P

hil L

eive

rs, S

teve

Hild

itch

(Exp

edit

ion

Lead

er),

Troy

Cra

te, B

rian

Sid

away

Page 32: Svalbard 92
Page 33: Svalbard 92

26.07.92 - HEATHROW - 15.50 HRS

Arrived safely thanks to Maurice and Dots Van, good journey down M1 and M25. Very sad to part with Sarah, Luke and Bryony. Hope to see them all fit and well in 4 weeks time. So strange sitting at Heathrow with Brian, Robin and Troy - still leaves a hell of a hole with my family not with me.

Good flight and food.

Airport in Oslo not exactly 1st class. SAS plane to Tromso before departure.

Tromso - 11.30 Hrs In t-shirts. Light dull, not dark.

Page 34: Svalbard 92

Plane in Tromso at the Northen tip of Norway.

Page 35: Svalbard 92

First view of Svalbard, Spitzbergen.

Page 36: Svalbard 92

27.07.92 - TROMSO

Flight departs 00.25 Hrs. Tromso Airport surprisingly good.

(p) Wing of Mcdonnell Douglas 80. Cloud formation en route to Longyearbyen.

(p) Several shots of Spitsbergen first sight. Longyearbyen. Boat being prepared for journey. Airport with campsite in foreground.

Due to difficult seas it took Steve and Nick 5 hours to travel from base camp at Adolfbukta/Nordenskioldbreen. Our journey to return with 6 personal and kit and fuel took from 03.40 hours to 08.40 hours (5 hours). Seas reasonable and improved toward latter part of journey but fuel consumption high and ran out of fuel for Mercury engine so changed to small Seagull and radio’d to Base camp for 2 gallon of 50:1 to be carried towards us. Met up with Phil and Dot and powered our way (8 personal plus kit - no fuel) to base camp.

Trip was found to be cold as I only had thermal top and Sympatex jacket on - should have had fleece top also as windchill took effect. Bladder full so ‘relieved’ to have pee on beach when refuelling.

Base camp superb. My tent erected for me before arrival. All tents pitched with superb views of ‘blue’ glacier. Base camp tent erected and of several (4) wooden huts at this location, advance party had entered one and started conversion to Base hut. No knowledge of ownership but if asked to move out?

(p) Nordenskioldbreen glacier with sleeping tents in foreground.

01.15 Hrs -

01.45 Hrs -

08.40 Hrs -

Page 37: Svalbard 92

After having brew and breakfast of cheesecake, bacon, sausage, spaghetti and malt whisky. Took all my kit to my tent, scoured vicinity for more rocks and boulders to hold down valances on tent. Quickly and roughly unpacked for grabbing 3 hours sleep at 10.40 hours to 13.40 hours. First real sleep since Sunday morning - only managed 40 winks on boat - surprisingly! An incredible location. So so lucky to be here, will appreciate even more in a couple of days when acclimatised and refreshed.

Missing Sarah and children. Trying not to think of them too much (Expedition recommends vasectomy after news got round re new addition expected in family)

Brian and myself set up trip wire alarm system around base camp, tested - OK. Breeze coming off glacier - temp below freezing. Sun and blue sky. Feeling awkward due to lack of experience but will slot in soon as I get the rhythm.

(p) Zoom lense - glacier, icebergs calved off glacier, Pyramiden into the sun, outside toilet and boat, base camp including huts, my tent with glacier behind.

Sorted my kit and stored some in main store - too much kit? we will see but would not surprise me. Feeling a little low, missing Sarah etc..

(p) Small flowers + grasses, Union Jack, Glacier and Ice Bergs.

Walked towards glacier with Troy, met Steve, Doddy, Nick, Wendy and Helen on return after they tried to tow an Iceberg back for a fridge - not successful. Feel more relaxed, about to have evening meal. Hands cold, writing poor! Soup, Macaroni Cheese and Rice Pudding - I chose to wash up!

Gun practice with pump action shotgun and Smith and Wesson hand gun at 12.30 midnight.

(p) Me with pump action. Doddy with hand gun.

Turned in at 01.00 Hrs

19.50 Hrs -

22.14 Hrs -

Page 38: Svalbard 92

View of Longyearbyen.

Page 39: Svalbard 92

Longyearbyen airport.

Page 40: Svalbard 92

Getting ready to leave Longyearbyen airport to head up the Fjord to Base Camp. Inflatable boat with Mecury engine also pictured.

Page 41: Svalbard 92

Base Camp with sleeping tents in foreground and Nordenskioldbreen glacier in the background.

Page 42: Svalbard 92
Page 43: Svalbard 92
Page 44: Svalbard 92

Materials were bought with them to restore the Base Camp hut and make it habitable, wind proof, water proof and bear proof. FerrierFjellet in the background.

Page 45: Svalbard 92

At shore near Base Camp, ‘Loo with a view’ on the right hand side, Inflatable boat in the middle and the Fuel Dump on the left hand side.

Page 46: Svalbard 92

The polar bear warning system which consists of a strong fishing line which encompasses the Base Camp that would fire percussion caps if triggered. The metal structures used were the old supports for the railway track when William Spiers Bruce used it as a base for the company’s coal explorations in the area in 1907.

Page 47: Svalbard 92

The armory, to deal with any possible threats from polar bears.

Page 48: Svalbard 92

Martyn practicing with pump action shotgun, 12.30 at night.

Page 49: Svalbard 92
Page 50: Svalbard 92

28.07.92 - BASE CAMP - 09.30 HRS

Surprisingly long sleep, ready for brew.

Weather clear blue skies and sun - sweaty hot in tent.

Down to the loo with a view - no place like it.. breakfasted.

Mosies biting - no trouble yet..

(p) Expedition photo session, individual and group. Tried fog filter B with view of RHS glacier.

Constant sounds of glacier calving not only front edge but also internally, sounds like quarry blasting rather than thunder.

Spent afternoon bailing out and mobilising Ian Frearsons tub, but out on water whilst I had a try at ‘driving’ one cylinder ceased to operate, had to resort to good old Seagull engine to get us back to base shore, near to which we had a visit of one grey seal - no photo as swam quickly to safe distance as boat engine noise frightened him/her. Weather cooling, with brisk winds and some rain.

Just turning in after fairly easy day before tomorrow setting up of high camp. Good meal - soup, mince, peas and tatties, cheesecake. Sysselmen’s men (Bear spotted and reported to Sysselmen 2nd Fjord down on left) came at 20.30 Hrs for an hour to see if all OK - parted with 2 bottles of Malt Whisky - could be worthwhile investment.

Phil and Dot teaching me to juggle 3 balls - so far not bad progress.

(p) Sysselmens boat ‘Polarisysslemen’

Feeling more comfortable and more easy with group but still longing for Sarah and children, it’s these circumstances where you realise just how much you love them and miss them when not around. Still, must look forward to ice and snow work over next 4/5 days and not wish time to pass quickly. Hope all goes well tomorrow (Wednesday) re exchanging contracts - would make life perfect for us all. Found smaller photo this morning (Tuesday) so feeling more relaxed to be able to see my family whenever possible, they are all beautiful.

11.15 Hrs -

14.00 Hrs -

21.10 Hrs -

12.45 Hrs -

Page 51: Svalbard 92

Sysselmens boat ‘Polarisysslemen’.

Page 52: Svalbard 92

29.07.92 - 09.40 HRS

Time to get up, difficulty in getting to sleep last night, 2.30? but seem to have managed 7 hours. Rained during the night and raining now.

After breakfast this morning emptied sack, donned plastic boots etc and loaded up to take supplies to ice dump just below ‘Ferry’. Boat took us fairly close to glacier - potentially awesome - relatively small sections calving created tremendous noise and tidal waves. Ascent up medial moraine from ‘Ferry’, glacier itself and several crevasse fields and snow fields, passed two or three moulins (ice melt water descending at speed to depth of glacier - no return).

Good carry by all team members.

On return to ‘beach’ seal stole ride on iceberg. Sited more puffins. Good meal on return prepared by Dot and Phil to celebrate our first run out to set up high ice camp. Rest day tomorrow before six of us (Me, Steve, Martin C, Martin D, Nick and Phil) set off for high ice camp. Some of others to sherpa more gear to ice dump ready for our trip out on Friday. Feeling more confident as today went well, felt strong and after discussions this evening as group, will share tent with Steve after stressing my need for experience for small tent camping. All is well. Hope for the best re Sarah and home move, they deserve everything I can give to them - they are so valuable to me. Love them so much.

Time for sleep.

13.00 Hrs -

Page 53: Svalbard 92

30.07.92 - 09.50 HRS

Troy snoring like a pig - time to get up.

Difficulty in getting to sleep but hopefully had 7 hours.

Me, Steve, Martin C, Martin D, Helen and Troy at Base. Had session on Zodiac inflatable boat with big Mercury engine - powerful and fun, practiced ‘man overboard’ routine. Base duties included gathering drift wood, boiling water, primus stove practice and preparing evening meal. Remainder of team moving more kit to top ice dump ready for our first ascent tomorrow (Friday) to set up permanent Ice Base. Just sorting my kit ready for ‘early’ start tomorrow. Troy lent me camera case to enable zoom lense to remain on camera, leaving smaller lense behind at Base Camp.

Time for a few hours sleep before 08.30 start - I am part of 6 man team to set up High Ice Camp - looking forward to experience. Kit nearly sorted bar sleeping bag etc. Hopefully selected right equipment only experience will tell.

(p) Reflections of ‘Ferrier’ etc in calm water. 1.00 AM!

Getting into pace and setting, feeling more comfortable with this way of life. Still missing family - lump in throat when looking at photos or thinking of them.

Love them dearly.

19.35 Hrs -

01.15 Hrs -

Page 54: Svalbard 92

Meltwater.

Page 55: Svalbard 92
Page 56: Svalbard 92
Page 57: Svalbard 92

Moulin.

Page 58: Svalbard 92

31.07.92 - 08.00 HRS

Early start, although rain during night now bright sun with gentle breeze.

Good start.

Safely tucked away in Steve’s tent. Initial part of climb up to Ice Camp (up to Ice Dump) brilliant. Collected some more kit (all but Dot, Troys and Brians spares - skis, poles and boots) and carried up to Dots Dump (Ice Dump). At Ice Dump utilised pulks and loaded all necessary gear to set up for 3 days at Ice Camp on cap. Ace start towing pulks (and carrying sacs) bright sunshine, amazing terrain, headed towards ‘Ferry’ - distances misleading. Once past west point of ‘Ferry’ incline increased, weather deteriorated - low cloud then rain. Became heavier underfoot and wetter until area of deep mush (just below knees) - wet cold feet.

Progress became slower and more difficult - snow/ice pebbles became deeper, gradient steeper - quite tiring - but by smaller distances and rests made it to plateau beyond crevassed area, Steve and Martin C went ahead with sortee to find suitable site to pitch tents and set up camp. Started melting ice to make brew. Radio’d to Base - Robin, great to hear his voice, reliable and dependable. Camp is in the middle of heavily crevassed area but safe. After brew, meal and malt, now about to get some well earned kip after an ‘achievable’ day, now 12.35.

(p) Various from leaving base to ice camp.

23.10 Hrs -

Page 59: Svalbard 92

01.08.92 - 10.00 HRS

Steve gained consciousness for radio comms with base as arranged last night. Surprisingly good reception. Good nights kip despite sleeping uphill and having to use sac in bell end as buffer. Clag down after rain during the night - no possible move to establish permanent Ice Camp until better visibility. Remaining four personnel to set off at 12.00 and set up interim Ice Camp below ‘Ferry’. Established ‘Dump’, Dump marked with flag, topped up ice piles for water supply for the three tents, now back in tent for second brew at 12.20. Breakfast already eaten.

No improvement in weather, tent bound passing time with brews, food, book and photography. Re-snowed tent valances and replaced ice screws. Crevasses surrounding us are enormous, 70’ to 80’ wide, snow within them collapses creating caverns, amazing snow formations and icicles. As long as treated with respect and care - no problem. Lot of gear wet, trying to dry off as far as possible, but difficult.

Still tent bound, passing time as best as we can, no change in weather. 2nd party (Robin, Brian, Nick and Phil) made it to bottom of ‘Ferry’ and have put in interim camp there for the night. Review situation 10.00AM tomorrow.

15.30 Hrs -

01.00 Hrs -

Page 60: Svalbard 92

First party at Dump. Pulks being loaded in order to haul them onto the Ice Cap.

From left to right; Cav, Helen, Wendy, Steve and Doddy.

Page 61: Svalbard 92
Page 62: Svalbard 92

Roping up to head over a snow bridge (an arc over a cravasse) should it collapse.

Page 63: Svalbard 92

Hauling pulks up the glacier.

Page 64: Svalbard 92

‘THE SNOW IS VIRGINAL, A PERFECT PLACE’

Page 65: Svalbard 92
Page 66: Svalbard 92

The return back down to the waters edge after being on the Ice Cap for the first time. Brian collapsed on the floor from exhaustion due to heading to the Ice Cap in two days and coming back in only one.

Page 67: Svalbard 92

Camp at Gipsdalen in order to explore the dry glaciated valley.

From left to right; Brian, Troy and Robin.

Page 68: Svalbard 92

Helen hiding from a photograph.

Page 69: Svalbard 92

Leveling the snow in area for HIBC.

Page 70: Svalbard 92

High Ice Base Camp.

Page 71: Svalbard 92
Page 72: Svalbard 92

02.08.92 - 15.50 HRS

After night of wind and rain we stayed in our sleeping bags keeping warm and marking time. Weather until just now the same, sun breaking through cloud, for the first time we can see the Fjord where Base Camp located.

(p) View from tent to Fjord.

Memo: when tent pitched on Glacier/Ice cap and zipped up - blue ice!

All rigged up - ice axes, crampons, harness, rope and full weather protection. First reconnoitre of advance party to try and locate suitable location for Ice Base Camp. After short distance, looking back to our camp (Steve - (p) showed us the amazing site of our pitch - between two bloody great crevasses on an ice slab! Good walk up to ice cap and over Bergschrund - Wendy leading dropped into small crevasse but no problem, all roped up! Visibility deteriorated rapidly with only occasional view of surrounding, when visible gave a hint of what is to come! Clag did not lift. After 2 1/2 Hrs turned back to Ice Camp - me leading, back at 22.00 Hrs.

(p) (Steve) photo of ‘A’ team - Advance team.

Deciding to move to better location tomorrow, after which Martin C and Wendy will return to Base Camp ready for trip to collect Maurice (and my news I hope - fingers crossed) Problems with radio comms - battery power, we have receive but no transmit. 2nd party have established ‘Foxtrot’ Dump below end of ‘Ferry’ and moved 50% of remains of Dots Double Dump to their location. They have now settled down for evening with hot meal, as we are.

17.30 Hrs -

23.00 Hrs -

Page 73: Svalbard 92

03.08.92 - 09.00 HRS - ANNIVERSARY

Awoke just after 7.15 feeling rather hot - sunshine! Nearly blue skies. No time to sit in pit, up and brew on, breakfast. Out for a few photos.

(p) - Steve assessing route to new location. Top edge of glacier with crevasses. Our tent with ice! Helen cleaning the mess tin.

Anniversary card appeared! Very welcome - bought a tear to my eye. Absolutely glorious day - the Arctic is certainly an incredible place - stunning.

Making the most of good weather. Steve and I skiied to new location to set up permanent Ice Base Camp. Sacs first then I towed pulk with skis, fast way of crossing snow and safer way for crossing crevasses as load is spread over surface of skis. Others broke camp up and we all created level pitch for setting up tents. Wendy en route suddenly dropped into her second crevasse - perfectly flat snow just as all surrounding then!

Steve and I went to meet second party coming up the side of ‘Ferry’ - long wait. They all were knackered considering short walk, reinforced the measure of the hard ascent the ‘A’ team had. Managed to dry all kit.

(p) Views from first Ice Camp through tent ‘window’. Views from first Ice Camp location. Sun shafts at Ice Base Camp and of snow surface. Shots of Ice Camp being prepared and set up. Shot of ‘Steve the Snowman’. Second party arriving from Foxtrot Dump.

Had dinner - Beef Strongonoff by Reiter highly recommended and brew. Out of Bowmore as dished out to second party on arrival to celebrate. They have not bought any more with them! bought food instead. Put my anniversary card up in tent. Nice to have even pitch as last was certainly downhill. Martin C and Wendy.

Down to Base Camp ready for the trip to Longyear for more fuel and Maurice.

After relaxed evening, all eight team members getting on well together, hit the sac early. Getting good tuition by Steve on Primus Stoves and general small tent routines - very lucky.

20.30 Hrs -

20.45 Hrs -

23.35 Hrs -

Page 74: Svalbard 92

View out of tent in Gipsdalen, looking towards Ice Cap.

Page 75: Svalbard 92

View out of tent on the Ice Cap. Snow in billy cans ready to melt for water.

Page 76: Svalbard 92

‘Steve the Snowman’ at High Ice Base Camp.

Page 77: Svalbard 92

Tent with frozen guide ropes, fuel bottles and skis at HIBC. Early morning shot.

Page 78: Svalbard 92

04.08.92 - 10.00 HRS

First up.

Bright sunny weather, crust on snow barely holds your weight with boots on.

(p) High Ice Base Camp - fully manned and kitted out. HIBC, flag and Fjord. Footprints (Nicks) on crust.

Getting ready for exploration of ice cap on skis - travelling light. 2nd finger right hand giving pain on pressure - whitlow. Doc to give course of antibiotics if no improvement this evening.

What a day, high cloud, blue sky, sun and very little breeze. Headed north east and within 1/2km set up ‘Steve’s ski school’, all practised snow plough stops and turns and finished with slalom course.

Continued NE onto ice cap proper - stunning, absolutely stunning. Mile after mile of snow covered ice bordered with mountains and crags. Returned to view southern side of ‘Ferry’, worse approach than North side - we made right decision even though we waded up to knees in ice cold meltwater.

Contoured down to HIBC. No problems with XC skiing although need more confidence and practice in turns. As soon as back to HIBC realised that used film lost! Time now is 18.00 Hrs after brew and snap Steve, Martin D, Nick and myself at 19.00 Hrs set off in search of small black capsule 2” long 1” wide! (Doddies immediate suggestion to accompany me to search - good lad) I thought chances slim but Steve seems determined and confident. Cloud base dropping, poor visibility. After 1 hours searching and retracing ski tracks found towards furthest point! Brilliant, we achieved the impossible! Then the four of us had a superb down hill ski back to HIBC. What a team! Back at 20.30 Hrs. Good meal and brew. Followed by chat in our tent, Steve, Robin, Nick and myself.

(p) Many during the day - but hopefully some good shots - we will see.

Now 12.33 Hrs about to turn in after the best day yet. Can it get better?

Memo: Doc this evening gave me course of antibiotics for inflamed finger, with threat of ‘the knife’ on return to Base Camp!

12.00 Hrs -

22.30 Hrs -

Page 79: Svalbard 92

05.08.92 - 10.00 HRS

Weather - clag down and snow. No incentive to get out of pit. Brew and breakfast. Out of tent to assist Robin and Brian down to crevasse area before their decent down to Base Camp at 13.00 Hrs. Then as still poor visibility back to tents - five or six in one 2 man tent, playing cards, chatting. I had radio comms at 15.34 Hrs with Base (Troy) to establish Robin and Brians progress from their 15.00 Hrs radio sched. Their estimated arrival 21.00 to 22.00 Hrs, no boat for last leg. Now 18.00 Hrs passing the time. Finger painful on pressure and ‘gathering’.

Eaten evening meal - another good Reiter meal and semolina pudding with jam (memories of Luke with semolina). Robin and Brian back safely. Crevasses opening up just below lip before descent. Brian missing crampons, eight and crab during journey down. No response yet from Derby 2 - Martin C, Dot, Wendy and Maurice on return from Longyear. No action today, clag down.

(p) HIBC and Union Jack in clag (with wide)

23.45 Hrs -

Page 80: Svalbard 92

‘ONE OF THE LAST UNSPOILT BEAUTIFUL PLACES LEFT ON EARTH’

Page 81: Svalbard 92
Page 82: Svalbard 92
Page 83: Svalbard 92
Page 84: Svalbard 92

06.08.92 - 08.40 HRS

First up at 08.40 Hrs, dressed, dump and brew. Surgery on finger to release pressure and extract puss as last night. Clag down again, no ascent on ‘Terry’. No contact received from Derby 2, from Longyear trip, by Base or us. Should have returned by now! Just packing to resort sight (HIBC) and descend back to Base. Ice climbing en route set off from HIBC at 13.30 Hrs on foot as skis now stashed and secured pending our return. Heavy going 1’ to 2’ of snow initially. More crevasses opening up as thaw continues on edge of ice cap, but safe as only 6” to 1’ wide. Kept well left towards ‘Ferry’ and avoided wet feet. Called in at Foxtrot Camp/Dump on way down and finished Bowmore left there, had eats break.

(p) A bitch of a Moulin, largest and loudest so far - thunder like noise - lethal and wicked. Snow formations where the two Moulins meet.

Now stopped snowing and sun shines with partial cloud surface between Foxtrot and Dots Dump softening as thaw continues. Hell of a change from route up when solid hard ice - only 6 days ago. All in good spirits, talking in the high attitude sickness Irish voices, and in good song. Had some fun crevasse jumping between Dots Dump and Troys Dump, amazing the confidence level increase after experiencing the vast crevasses on edge of ice cap. Jumping 4’ to 5’ crevasses with sac on back and ice axe to secure good landings. At the last major crevasse before Troys Dump found an ideal ice wall - so sacs off, crampons on and set to ice climbing vertical or near vertical ice. After two climbs with safety rope felt happy enough to climb unassisted. With good quality and new axe and crampons found it easy and fun. Perhaps the good surface made light of it. Doddy (ungloved) left a trail of blood from knuckles!

(p) Two shots taken by Nick of me on ice wall.

Had first radio comms with Derby 2 to say 30 minutes from home! Relief as now safe. It appears as though rough seas, small engine, tub boat - Frearsons boat and engine failure all contributed to delay. They were towed in to Longyear by windsurfer! Pleased that Maurice, Martin C, Wendy and Dot back with us safely. After ice climbing walked off the glacier to beachhead, left hardware at crevasse Dump as not needed until return to HIBC.

Collected at 20.45 Hrs by Robin and Brian.

(p) Iceberg into the sun. Glacier formation. Ice jewels on the beach.

Page 85: Svalbard 92

Back to Base Camp about 1 hour after Maurice etc arrived. Received much looked forward to Fax and letter! Read fax first (sent on 4th, now 6th) and letter afterwards (written on 31st July) - wrong way round but no problem as I learnt of the good news immediately then the background to it. As all were aware of my situation shared the good news. I celebrated the news with two or three good slugs of Bowmore! Read and re-read fax and letter. Our news is the dream come true, even now it’s hard to believe and I am sure will be so until I arrive back to our new home. Although Rose Cottage will always be held dear to our hearts, I am especially fond of our cottage, it has our personality all the way through it, hard to imagine not to return ever again to our cosy home, I will miss it dearly. Looking forward to Long Clawson - it has so much more to offer us as a family, all manner of things that could not be realised at Rose Cottage, even though financially we will be running ‘close to the wind’ for a couple of years, and especially if the interest rate increases. Long Clawson will be a happy home - I will see to that. A home for the children to be bought up in, and a garden and environment to cherish. Looking forward to pitching the tent in the garden.

The letter also reaffirms our commitment to each other, and the feelings that Sarah expresses are noted by me earlier in the log. The love and affection felt by me in the early part of the expedition must never be forgotten, I must remind myself of such emotions when they become cloudy and diluted. Just proves the other unforeseen benefits of the expedition.

After a welcome meal prepared by Robin, Brian and Troy of soup, spag bog and sponge pudding followed by a long orange drink Apeeal. I felt totally bloated and only want my sac - so with feet hurting from front pointing during ice climbing and a long downhill trek - I retired to my tent - solo. Dumped all my kit into my pit - exhausted and full and contented. Time to 12.00 midnight.

Phils snoring kept me awake for an hour or two but no real problem.

Page 86: Svalbard 92

07.08.92 - 09.00 HRS

Up at 09.00 Hrs or perhaps nearer 10.00 Hrs. Down to dump shed and back for brew and breakfast, only Steve and Nick up so far!

Memo: Water saga - the occasion why the fetching of water became a point for sarcasm in the nicest meaning of the word.

Time to get me and clothes into a cleaner state! So hot water in hand off to Doby hut - good upper body wash (lower body parts cleaned thoroughly with baby wipes) and hair wash - luxury and followed by clothes washing ready for next trip to HIBC.

Sitting in tent catching up with log writing - the last 8 sides as first chance since leaving HIBC. About to sort pit out after crashing out last night. Time to ‘rebuild’ myself and kit after 6 days on Ice Cap.

Finger nearly back to 100%, still taking antibiotics as prescribed but lost part of a tooth - minor problem - asked Nick to have a go at temporary filling later in the day. Several people going to Pyramiden for the afternoon - all being well I will go tomorrow as well.

Memo: Well into expedition now, feeling strong and relaxed in mind and body. Getting accustomed to this way of life and really enjoying the expedition. Getting used to Sarah and the children not being with me although always in mind and loved dearly.

Just turning in after spending latter part of day reading and relaxing. Nick has tried temporary filling where tooth broken, so far OK. Several people on Pyramiden Trip say well worth visit, so hopefully tomorrow second party will go.

15.30 Hrs -

12.36 Hrs -

Page 87: Svalbard 92

08.08.92 - 09.30 HRS

Up at 09.30 hrs - sun, no wind at all.

Dry, cloud and intermittent sun. Breakfasted. Prepared supply of milk. Sorted fuel for stoves and boiled three containers of water on three Primuses - silent Primusses different beasts as require more pre-heating and less pressure. Just finished drying breakfast pots and collating a plan for the reminder of the Expedition. At present seven days from tomorrow (Sunday) at HIBC walking through, whilst second party (including Dot and Troy) to stay Glacier Camp (Foxtrot Dump) for a couple of days before coming on to HIBC, third party - Robin, Brian and Martin D. Taking Helen to the airport and returning late Monday. If no incentive to stay on at HIBC for more than seven days, I will return before rest of HIBC party to Base Camp and explore Gipsdalen area on day walks? (along with Robin and Brian). We plan to start clearing Base Camp part of Wednesday, Thursday and a.m. Friday for rendezvous at 12.00 Hrs with boat for return to Longyear.

After writing letter to Sarah. Just spent the afternoon at Pyramiden - a small Russian coal mining settlement - very interesting.

(p) - Hopefully photo will capture the atmosphere.

Bought for Sarah a Russian fur hat (maybe on the large side?) and a whistle for Luke, I will try and buy Bryony something from Longyear before returning home. As expected a very poor and drab community and the inhabitants trying to sell souvenirs to make extra money.

Well worth a visit to be part of Russia. We ‘bought’ a dozen eggs for a bottle of Whisky and the equivalent of three loaves for 3 Mars bars! Plenty of children changing badges and coins (and notes) for chocolate bars! I bought 50KR (£5) worth of Pyramiden currency only used in that location so quite rare.

After last evening meal by Dot - damn good grub - night of drinks, song and laughter before turning in for the last ‘comfortable’ night pre HIBC.

14.40 Hrs -

20.50 Hrs -

01.31 Hrs -

Page 88: Svalbard 92

Pyramiden with power station whilst still in use, it’s been vacated and abandoned since 1998.

Page 89: Svalbard 92

Housing and a child at Pyramiden.

Page 90: Svalbard 92

‘THE ARCTIC IS CERTAINLY AN INCREDIBLE PLACE’

Page 91: Svalbard 92
Page 92: Svalbard 92

09.08.92 - 09.15 HRS

Time to get up after a good nights sleep.

Breakfast and time then spent getting kit together for todays ascent to HIBC.

09.15 Hrs -

Page 93: Svalbard 92

The weather was improved and the clag lifted so the first exploration of the Ice Cap was in order. Also the time when Martyn lost his film canister.

From left to right; Helen, Phil, Doddy, Doc and Steve.

Page 94: Svalbard 92

10.08.92 - 01.30 HRS

Delayed start due to Robin, Brian, Martin D and Helens departure lateness - was to be 12,00, then 13.00, then later.. during this time we had a ship visit from Pyramiden - the Russians came to give us their best wishes. We eventually got to the beach at the base of the Moraine at 16.00 Hrs! Myself and Phil to ‘climb’ our way all the way to HIBC. Martin C, Maurice, Wendy, Troy and Dot to stop at Glacier camp (Foxtrot Dump). Made Troys dump by 16.52 Hrs, Dots Dump by 18.30 Hrs and HIBC by 22.30 Hrs - 6 1/2 Hrs in total - bloody good going and especially with heavy packs. First crevasse section becoming worse but passable with care, the other crevasse sections proved to be no problem. Difficult going by upper section of ‘Ferry’, tiredness and snow showers with wind against us didn’t help. Phil made good progress himself although a little behind at times (14 stone and 28” legs!) other party arrived at Glacier Camp just before we made HIBC, no problem beside a bump on the head for Dot! Glad they made it safely. HIBC has taken one or two snow storms during last two days. We had to spend some time uncovering tents and de-icing them. Sorted kit out and made evening meal at 12.30 Hrs for us both - OK. Now just turning in for a well earned sleep. Next radio sched at 10.00 Hrs. Good to be back at HIBC.

It seemed to snow all of the night, this morning I had to beat the roof and sides of the tent to let the light in! All covered in snow. Drifting outside the front of the tent, about to get dressed and go outside for a pee/dump. Interesting experience - snow driven by brash winds gets everywhere, covers your body, underpants, thermals etc - no time to loiter!

Dug snow from around tent (now have tent to myself as Steve not expected until Tuesday earliest) and removed snow and ice from outer flysheet for two reasons. 1, ice is very heavy and could damage tent. 2, to lift weight off of outer to stop it pressing against inner. Creating a bridge for water to seep through into the inside of the inner.

Back inside for brew and breakfast. No sign of life from No. 4 - Phils tent.

01.30 Hrs -

09.00 Hrs -

09.45 Hrs -

Page 95: Svalbard 92

Memo: Cigarette lighters are difficult to light at these temperatures, better to warm them with body heat before use. Also meths becomes more difficult - better to bring meths bottle inside tent during nights.

Not sure what radio sched will bring and arrangements yesterday were to take two pulks down to Glacier Camp to assist second party in getting to HIBC, but circumstances difficult with drifting snow, winds and poor visibility.

No such luck - cloud lifted, wind dropped so 10.00 Hrs radio sched, we decided to go down to Glacier Camp and take four pulks in order to return with all remaining supplies from Dots and Foxtrot Dumps (Glacier Camp) and five personnel - Martin C, Maurice, Wendy, Dot and Troy. So after the 10.00 Hrs radio sched. Myself and Phil got ourselves breakfasted and kitted out, dug out all skis, poles and pulk. At 13.00 Hrs set off on skis to Glacier Camp with four pulks and our skis and poles. Managed nearly all route on skis in 2 hours - arrived at 15.00 Hrs. Loaded two pulks with food etc from Dump and at 16.00 Hrs Phil and myself set off back again! Leaving the five at Glacier Camp to make their own way in their own time. We again managed to ski most of the way back and after a while I made good heading (leaving Phil at his own pace) and made HIBC by 18.20 Hrs - 2 Hrs 20 minutes! Bloody good time. After short break skiid back to Phil with Marzipan as an energy booster - back to camp by 18.50 Hrs (1/2 hour later). hard going, glad it’s the last climb up (I hope..) At 20.00 Hrs received radio message that Cav (Martin C) and co just before top crevasses, so might arrive by 20.30 Hrs. Time to get brew on ready for their arrival.

(p) Crevasses on edge of ice cap after snowfall. Camp on arrival - Phil and myself. Troy and Wendy arriving. Maurice just finishing putting up his Super Nova.

All arrived safely - Bowmore all round (Orange juice for Dot). Sorted pulks and empty tents ready for occupation. Prepared another evening meal for Phil and me. Spent rest of evening just chatting.

Time for sleep, last night at HIBC with tent to myself.

20.16 Hrs -

01.00 Hrs -

Page 96: Svalbard 92

11.08.92 - 10.50 HRS

Up at 09.50 hrs for call of nature before clearing overnight snow from outside of tent to reduce condensation on inside, also dug out snow from bottom of sides to assist air flow. Radio schedule at 10.00 Hrs. As Martin (Derby 4) here, I left radio comms to him, but no success with his radio so I was able to make contact with Base for link, no problems.

De-snowed all tents before returning to mine.

(p) Wild country tents from various angles.

Just having breakfast of tea, ready brek, crackers and marmalade.

We have dug out and made pitch ready for last and final tent (Brian and Robin). Martin C sorted pulks and moved skis, put aside five sets of skis and poles with boots ready to take to top of crevasses for the remaining five personnel. Phil and I then built a castellated wall (semi-circle) around crevasse bog and we made one or two improvements (ie steps down as snow level increased by 1’) looks great.

(p) Wall around bog.

10.50 Hrs -

13.30 Hrs -

Page 97: Svalbard 92

Everything is great, I am feeling relaxed and confident, this is now becoming a way of life more than a holiday, fitting in well - we have a great expedition here, no complaints. Feeling good. Many thoughts of return home to Long Clawson, walked around the house and garden in my mind several times, hope Sarah is coping with the move - should be tomorrow - hope it goes without too many problems - sad day for Rose Cottage.

Final five arrived safely at 18.50 Hrs after a good walk up - sun shines. All sorted kit and erected Brian and Robins tent. I prepared our evening meal - orange juice, soup, beef, vegetables and potatoes, apple and custard, tea and coffee - not a bad feast at all. Now relaxing before turning in.

22.40 Hrs -

Page 98: Svalbard 92

Toilet using a natural crack in the crevasse.

Page 99: Svalbard 92

Closer shot with foot holds.

Page 100: Svalbard 92

Improved toilet with castellated wall built by Phil and Martyn. Camp is situated to the left.

Page 101: Svalbard 92

Martyn Turner.

Page 102: Svalbard 92

12.08.92 - 09.25 HRS

Just stirring and thinking about getting up. Memo: The silence of the Arctic.

(p) Two ‘bedroom window’ shots.

Good visibility - so far.

Spent most of morning and afternoon in tent reading and relaxing with Steve, Nick and Martin D. After a brunch at 15.00 Hrs decided to bag ‘Terry’ on skis, so eight of us set off in sun, good visibility to base of mountain. As we neared ‘Terry’ thoughts of only climbing as too steep, but no! we skiied nearly all the way up and back down again (16.00 Hrs ascent) Amazed at achievement, but if in any danger just sat on my bum so little risk involved. As we neared the summit clag came down. No view. Return journey quite exciting with double somersault near the bottom! Snowed all the way back to Camp, visibility bad.

(p) Views of camp and surrounding views from base of ‘Terry’. Shots taken on the way up.

In tent, snowing outside, reading before evening meal.

09.25 Hrs -

20.00 Hrs -

Page 103: Svalbard 92

Yesterday noticed heart mis-beat at around 19.00 Hrs, continued until fell to sleep. Whilst drifting off had careless thoughts of it being my last night on earth and the great sadness of loosing my wife and family, although financially catered for this is no relief to the anguish it would cause and my sadness after the event! Since arriving back from skiing at approx 19.00 Hrs same problem, OK today until then. Spoke to the Doc earlier today - he was not too concerned, checked pulse whilst resting - OK. He stated that sometimes too much caffeine caused such irregularities. I will have further chat to him before turning in tonight. I love life or should I say my family too much to be parted at this time. Please let is pass and allow me to get home safely to love my wife and children again. I can’t let them down now, I have their future to live for.

Steve prepared evening meal - soup, mince and mash, Angel Delight and Bowmore. Good meal. Doc came for house visit, checked pulse again, felt irregularity but showed no concern but suggested monitoring progress over next few days and possible ECG if persistent. Paid a visit (by invitation) to Brian and Robin’s tent to discuss arrangements for Lowland Camp in Gypsdalen before end of expedition. Possibly returning Friday (latest) to Base Camp, restock and out on Saturday, return Tuesday in order to pick up remaining members from HIBC. Leaving Wednesday, Thursday and A.M Friday to pack ready for 12.00 ship back to Longyear. Now in tent, heart still missing an occasional beat. Settled down to sleep at approx 02.00 Hrs.

23.25 Hrs -

01.07 Hrs -

Page 104: Svalbard 92

13.08.92 - 11.45 HRS

Breakfasted after getting up at 10.00 Hrs. Heart normal. Visibility good, sun shining. Just started to snow again.

Early afternoon finishing ‘Time to Die’ by Wilbur Smith. Then we formed a piste on the steep slopes behind HIBC and all practiced our skiing techniques, including a 2’ high ski jump! At 18.30 Hrs I wanted a last ski up to and over the ice cap to the point where the eastern side of Spitsbergen can be seen. Troy and Steve also came along. I have never experienced such peace, it is surely one of the last unspoilt beautiful places left on Earth. Totally untouched, nature in its purist form, not a sound, no sign of any life or the spoils thereof. A cherished environment that I have had the privilege of experiencing. The sun shines low on the horizon, the snow is virginal, a perfect place. I requested time to be on my own so Steve and Troy left for HIBC.

I needed some time for my private thoughts and emotions, it was a very moving experience and tears came readily, why I cried I do not know, it was not linked to Sarah and my Family - I think, but cannot be sure, maybe regret and sadness of farewell to the Arctic? Whatever the reason it moved me, quite a surprise. En route back to HIBC I absorbed the landscape, savouring every moment, every moment. I took an easy pace for my return journey, met up with Steve - I think he understands. Now back in tent cooking dinner with dodgy Primus (one of Steves!) flares easily! Last evening on the ice cap.

Good meal - soup, beef, veg and potatoes, semolina.

Spent rest of evening completing ‘Logic’ puzzle with Steve - a success. Turned in early, midnight.

Heart OK - normal.

09.45 Hrs -

Page 105: Svalbard 92

14.08.92 - 09.15 HRS

Up at 09.15 Hrs for early start with Robin, Brian and Troy for Base Camp.

As we four set off at 13.25 Hrs the remaining eight personnel were packing ready for a short trip north - two days either way. As crevasses uncertain and skiing not perfect we set off at a steady pace - Troy and Robin not taking to skiing very well at all - Brian doing quite well. After the cwm half way down ‘Ferry’ we changed to plastic boots and I had to carry skis and boots on sacs. I diverted to collect survival bag, blue water container and gash from near Glacier camp and arranged to meet other three at Dots Dump. Conditions difficult with ice and snowed in ‘stone holes’ - Robin pulled ligament and slowed progress for the remainder of his walk down. I lost my left foot twice in such holes - once getting it jammed for 2/3 minutes! the other up to the knee in ice cold water! Progress slow with heavy sacs etc.. Crevasse sections getting more difficult, special care given to Troy and Robin. Cleared Dots Dump and bottom Dump - only left kit at Crevasse Dump for second party to collect on their way down. I made beach by 21.45 Hrs, a bit tired - sore bottom of left toe - blistered! - unusual but with heavy weight understandable. The others followed by 20/25 minutes - proves my strength and stamina again - all the training before the expedition proved its worth. Troy lost his Karrimats so I went back to collect them. Boat journey slow due to a lot of ice and brash. Made base camp by 23.30 Hrs - all bushed but in good spirits - Robins leg causing concern - difficulty in walking. After a hot brew and Bowmore retired to my tent for a good nights sleep.

(p) Various en route off the ice cap to the beach. Rail system for transport to and from the beach.

13.55 Hrs -

Page 106: Svalbard 92

About to leave Base Camp to take Helen to the airport in Gipsdalen and pick up Maurice. Kitted out in Immersion suits to protect against the bitter cold and wind whilst out on the water.

Page 107: Svalbard 92

Driftwood scattered at Gipsdalen.

Page 108: Svalbard 92

15.08.92 - 09.45 HRS

Up at 09.40 hrs, down to loo and into see Robin (slept in hut overnight) and ready for radio sched at 10.00 Hrs - no response. Robins calf muscle thought to be torn, improving condition. Breakfast then down to ‘beach’ to repatch inflatable and gather some more driftwood. Generator on to charge radio batteries.

Back to tent to sort pit out and gather clothes and me for washing.

Spent chopping wood, washing clothes etc and sorting kit for tomorrow. Relaxing late pm and evening - good evening meal by Robin. We had comms at 14.00 Hrs with Ice Group - they are proceeding well, but no comms at 22.00 Hrs. Many thoughts today at new home and arrival next Sat night.

14.15 Hrs -

24.00 Hrs -

Page 109: Svalbard 92

16.08.92 - 08.30 HRS

Up at 08.30 Hrs to be in hut for 09.00 Hrs. Packed most of kit before breakfast. Supposed to be ready for 10.00 departure - but no. By the time all kit aboard it was 13.20 Hrs.

(p) Immersion suited ( from L - Brian, Me, Troy and Robin) ready for journey to Gipsdalen (Bunsow Land).

Robin took her out and I took over ‘driving’ for most of the way, the odd planing but too much swell to continue for any length of time. Had to have a pee in the water baler! Arrived safely at 14.45 Hrs and found suitable place to land.

First priority investigate hut and site to see if open or near fresh water - unfortunately not - but hut first class, double glazed, furnished, bear proof food store etc - must be available for hire. Found suitable site for pitching tents adjacent to running water. Set up camp - what a tremendous setting, a vast ex-glaciated valley, 4km wide!

Built up fire with some of the plentiful supply of drift wood, dug hole for bog, made platform towards water supply, had a bite to eat then set off for an explority walk. Herd of reindeer came exceptionally (10m of me) - stag, four does, two calves, not at all concerned of human beings. Surrounding mountains over 2,000 feet above sea level and we are at that sea level, they rise rapidly into the air. A vast area in which to be located. Took a leisurely walk along the sea-shore, found my reindeer antlers that hopefully I will being back to the UK. Interesting drift wood in abudence - all sizes to very large - wooden cases/crates, log cabin logs, parts of boats and ships etc.. Back to camp for dinner and relaxing evening.

Writing this log next to log fire - a very passive time. Heart normal. No comms capability with ice cap group. Sharing tent with Brian, Robin has Troy - two snorers together!

23.00 Hrs -

Page 110: Svalbard 92
Page 111: Svalbard 92
Page 112: Svalbard 92

17.08.92 - 10.50 HRS

Up at 09.30 Hrs after good nights sleep. Cool wind coming off ice cap otherwise OK. Went to check boat and tide - beware of sand/silt banks on way out. Now back in tent - had brew and sugar puffs, just waiting for ham, bacon and eggs now. Tried 10.00 Hrs radio sched but no luck.

Sitting around roaring open log fire - tons of driftwood available! After breakfast (approx 12.30) walked up Gipsdalen for 8 or 9 Km, saw several Svalbard Reindeer and stags, does and calves, an arctic fox - half dark, half light fur. Collected a large set of antlers off a stag corpse - A1 condition, broke off most of head and neck, will saw remainder at base camp before shipment. The vegetation struggles to exist, clinging to any small amount of soil available, the lichen is in various colours from bright orange to light green to white. Walked around SW corner of Dakallen and towards Maclanbreen - serious ice and freeze damage to rock.

(p) Gully water erosion from glacier melt water. Stag antlers. Stag being shot with Smith and Wesson. 44 Magnum.

Walked back to hut.

(p) Stay near hut. Food store tripod. Fordsen Tractor.

Dumped smelly antlers at boat dump and back to camp for 18.00 Hrs.

(p) Stag near to camp. Templet - Tempelfjorden.

(p) Group near open fire.

Lazing about now passing time before dinner.

Troy prepared all of the evening meal - beef, veg, potatoes, soup, apple and custard, brew and Bowmore - good meal.

Rest of evening spent by roaring fire - hot on one side of your body - cold on windward side (side nearest ice cap!)

Early to bed 22.40 Hrs.

10.50 Hrs -

19.15 Hrs -

Page 113: Svalbard 92

18.08.92 - 11.00 HRS

Out for helicopter flying past at 07.00 Hrs and for pee. Awake for radio sched 10.00 Hrs - no success. Just having breakfast and packing up camp.

Awaiting second party’s arrival at the beach I am at Base Camp sorting kit out after coming back from Gipsdalen. Managed to clear Gipsdalen by 13.00 Hrs and had fairly rough start to sea journey home, after turning headland nr. Gipsladen heading NNE seas perfect and I took over controls to ‘plane’ Zodiac all the way to Base Camp, initially quite exciting but after part of the long trip hands became cold and stiff - had to use survival suit gloves. Back at the beach at Base Camp for 14.30 Hrs - good time. Had brew and snack before doing one or two chores and then set too with remaining majority of stags head, an attempt to reduce bulk for easy transportation and also to try and reduce smell. After brief lapendectomy discovered maggot infested brain so cleared all this matter out of the skull and along with severed part of head and neck burnt on stove. Disinfected remainder and washed/brushed out with boiling water. Should be OK now to transport in Mercury engine crate - thanks to Robin.

Memo: Whilst on Gipsdalen trip found ‘baby’ pair of antlers for the children! And Arctic Fox tail?

(p) Up the valley of Gipsdalen. View out of tent first thing this morning. View out of Sassenfjord looking west.

Sorted kit, drying out fully plastic and ski boots, and Stags head. Now we have the run down to leaving Friday midday - 2 1/2 days - a lot of work to do in packing all expedition kit - time will pass quicker whilst busy, looking forward to getting home now, trying to imagine walking into Long Clawson but difficult.

Second party arrived safely at 20.30 Hrs in both boats. Dot freaked out at crevasses - understandable, gallant girl - she was the weakness in the team but attempted all and succeeded. Us four - Robin, Brian, Troy and I prepared brew etc for them then set about evening meal - soup, chicken curry (and a lot of extras e.g. sweetcorn, carrots, peas and various spices) and rice, sponge pudding or fruit and tip top or rice pudding followed by a brew. Tiring day for second party. Not keen to wash up so I yours truely set too with Troy and Martin C drying. Second party within 11Km of Newton Toppen, two or three days in clag but otherwise clear and beautiful. They bagged (skiied) a couple of peaks and seemed to have had a good time - in good spirits anyway.

11.00 Hrs -

09.15 Hrs -

01.06 Hrs -

Page 114: Svalbard 92

Photographs of Bowmore on iceberg for sponsorship purposes in exchange for very cheap tax free whisky.

Page 115: Svalbard 92

Norwegan Commisioner of Mines dropping in to visit and check all is well at Base Camp.

Page 116: Svalbard 92

19.08.92 - 09.15 HRS

Average nights sleep considering full camp snorers - Troy being in the next tent to mine. Bright sunshine and quite hot earlier whilst in pit - now fair wind blowing. Up and joined Nick to rescue Karrimats and pulks blowing about in the wind. Breakfasted then full strip, wash and hair wash - feel human again although not possible to be that thorough. Sorted expedition kit with Robin and Brian - skis, ironmongery (ice axes, crampons etc..) and pack ready for shipment. A quick lunch and then at 14.00 Hrs out in Zodiac with Robin, Brian and Dot - dropping off on the way Steve, Martin D and Nick to retrace steps back to first crevasses in search of Steves crampons, they found them on return journey before Troys dump (100% success rate for searches and finds - not bad result!) We four had a close look at Nordenskioldbreen glacier.

(p) Glacier caves - size greater than you can imagine, various shots of glacier and ice bergs and beach.

(p) Bowmore and Granges products on icebergs.

Set foot on iceberg to set up Bowmore shots, dangerous and became more so after glacier calved and consequential waves moved iceberg vertically by 12” to 24” - had to get off in a hurry before it threw me into Arctic waters, left ice axe and Bowmore on iceberg until it settled. Danger after submerged part of iceberg eroded by water of it turning all the way over - somersaulting.

09.15 Hrs -

Page 117: Svalbard 92

After a period of time back to recover items and return to safety of boat. Then off to other larger more remote bergs to continue. Back to collect Steve and co. Before taking a look at far left of glacier and landing on Retrettoya (an island in centre of glacier on the front edge). Had a bit of ‘gun practice’ shooting icebergs, out of two shots - two hits, the others failed except Martin D, who scored one, not bad shooting on my part. Without ear protection noise of shot deafening and leaves ears ringing for quite some time after (Magnum 44) Back to base.

(p) Glacier. Robin enjoying being captain of the ship. Shots into the sun and of Base camp.

(p) Armoury - 2 Smith and Wesson, 44 Magnum, 1 Winchester pump action shot gun, special open nosed bullets, 9 pellet cartridges, bear attack alarms with blank cartridges, thunderflashes.

Cleaned and oiled the used Magnum ready for storage and trip home.

(p) Glacier - note change from shots taken at start of expedition. Reflection in lake of mountains to right of glacier. Shots of trip wire alarm system.

Earlier today (late AM) had visit by helicopter of Norwegian Commissioner of Mines plus interpreter plus other government ministers on courtesy visit before going to Pyramiden.

(p) Helicopter departing.

Expedition dinner tonight to ‘celebrate’ end of expedition at 9.00 PM.

Enormous dinner - soup with tons of vegetables, stewing steak, potatoes, red peppers and asparagus tips, jelly and fruit or jelly or cream jelly - another good meal. Remainder of night we played Pictionary followed by Maurices pump action shotgun ‘practice’. Busy day tomorrow, last night in tent as it hopefully gets packed dry tomorrow. Sleep needed tonight as communal sleep in huts doubtful brings good nights sleep.

19.30 Hrs -

12.40 Hrs -

Page 118: Svalbard 92

Martyn with chainsaw and generator from A-plant in exchange for photos.

Page 119: Svalbard 92

Breaking down Base Camp.

Page 120: Svalbard 92

Cairn assembled from the stones that were used to weigh down the snow valances on the tents.

Page 121: Svalbard 92

Plaque left at the hut in Base Camp. Made by the team because they it felt neccesary after taking the time and effort to restore it.

Page 122: Svalbard 92

Packing equipment into barrels ready to be picked up by boat to head back to Longyearbyen.

Page 123: Svalbard 92

In the boat with all the equipment loaded on board en route to Longyearbyen. The personal gear was then taken with them on the plane and the rest left by the quay side to be taken by freight back to England.

Page 124: Svalbard 92

20.08.92 - 08.10 HRS

Up early at 08.10 Hrs, down to the loo and back to the hut to wake up Nick - asleep on hut floor! Made brew, boiled drinking water, made up fire, fetched more water from lake, tidied ready for breakfasts. My early rise for some reason did not seem to be appreciated! Demined bear attack alarm then packed personal kit followed by tent. Dismantled ‘shower room’. After lunch had fun time in the boat, take Zodiac (40hp Mercury engine) out from beach - “man overboard” - rescue man in quickest possible time - team of two, Wendy and I. I made quickest time of 20 secs, the Doc equaled this, most people around 1 minute. Good practice at emergency stops at speed on the plane and boat control. As a team we came second to Maurice and Phil. Spent next part of afternoon drying and packing inflatable and helping with remainder of packing, running engines in fresh water, preparing for bonfire this evening. Bonfire to burn supplies of food, petrol and other matter that we are not shipping back to the UK.

Shot off a few rounds with pump action shotgun and Ruger 44 Magnum, then set fire to bonfire - silly games putting petrol on fire and throwing milk (powdered) on fire - burns amazingly well in air. Games around bonfire - leaping over fire - Doc, Martin C and I doing a triple, throwing large stone to nominated person and of course a couple of bottles of Bowmore. Back to huts after midnight and sleeping there as all tents packed away dry. A good nights sleep, even though having chosen a non-snorers hut the Doc snored! you can’t win.

Page 125: Svalbard 92

21.08.92 - 09.00 HRS

Up at an early 07.30 Hrs for a quick breakfast and final pack before getting all equipment and personal gear to beach for 11.00 Hrs ready for 12.00 Hrs pick up by boat.

All ready for 11.00 Hrs. Whilst waiting four double canoes with French people paddling came to visit us, they have been camping across the fjord for a couple of days and heard our ‘beach party’ last night (and saw the black smoke!)

Ice Queen arrived late at 13.00 Hrs, the equipment was rapidly loaded onto the deck. It seems that she is touring the glacier, fjord and Pyramiden before heading back to Longyear, we therefore will not arrived at Longyear before 19.30 Hrs!

The captain is telephoning the warehouse and shop to ask them to open for us tonight. On board deck now writing this log after whisky was served to us as we got in very close to the glacier.

(p) Beach shots of all equipment. The huts and Base camp. Glacier. Phils cairn. French canoeists. Close up of glacier and the Final party arriving to Ice Queen in two boats.

Reached Longyear 19.30 Hrs. The Ian Freason boat broke its painter and the Ice Queen had to about turn to recover it.

(p) Fulmers on the wing.

First call was to the shop where various mementoes were bought for Sarah, Luke and Bryony. Managed to buy the local paper for Dad.

Afterwards crossed the rough track to the cafe where a fair meal and coffee was had, paid for by the expedition. At closing time - 12.00 midnight, we walked to where we had already loaded all the equipment and at 13.30 Hrs moved all of it to the storage company and then finally sorted, palleted, secured the gear (included ‘Rudolph’) ready for freighting.

09.00 Hrs -

14.20 hrs -

Page 126: Svalbard 92

22.08.92 - 03.00 HRS

Grabbed personal gear and a gun and had a long walk to the airport. Arrived at 04.00 Hrs, then settled down for a couple of hours sleep, up at 07.30 Hrs, the airport opened just before 08.00 Hrs so we were then able to get into the toilets to wash and change. Tea in the cafe, now 09.25 Hrs.

Waiting to board the plane.

Good flight from Longyear to Tromso by Braathams S.A.F.E, low cloud base but as usual bright sun above. On arrival in Tromso eleven of us crammed into two taxis and headed for swimming pool, closed! - as we were informed by a minibus driver at the airport but our taxi driver would not take notice, so off to the other pool available to the public at a rehabilitation centre for the elderly - pool closed! - found out after Taxi had left. Girl in reception softened to our pleas and I convinced her that for a payment we would appreciate a shower - OK, so all eleven duly showered, Brian shaved off whatever growth he had managed, and the girl ordered a minibus for us and we returned to the airport where Phil was still guarding our hand baggage.

Flight out to Oslo at 14.20 Hrs to land in Oslo at 16.10 Hrs.

Good trip - food again and landed slightly early in Oslo. Only 50 minutes before final flight takes off! Last minute purchase of chocolates, toffee and spending any remaining coins. Our party located at extreme rear of plane and consequently has spare seats to stretch out on. Enjoyable meal and company of Dot.

Heathrow and London appeared wet and busy (as usual), not a pleasant atmosphere to return to, but looking forward to getting home. Minibus and Robins’ son Richard there to meet us, obtained my new telephone number and arranged transport in Robins’ car due to availability of car phone to call Sarah one hour out of Kegworth junction. Said our farewells to the other nine members, some we will not see for some time IE not DMRT members. A sad occasion that we now part as an expedition and the experience over but on a more cheerful note. 1, we will have at least three more sessions together (unpacking freight, sorting slides for lecture pack, cheese and wine evening) 2, my return to Sarah, Family and new home - so mixed feelings as one emotion supersedes the other.

Made Kegworth in 2 hours, by 21.00 Hrs, Sarah just arrived so nobody had to wait - great to see her, quite strange after four weeks apart.

Called into East Leake for chip supper and cigars, then off to Long Clawson for our personal Champagne celebration (and a nice cool lager!)

03.00 Hrs -

13.00 Hrs -

Page 127: Svalbard 92

Martyn when he arrived home before he shaved his beard off. Welcome home cards on the mantelpiece.