Sustainable living in Banyule

A guide for your garden

This booklet was prepared in 2008 by the Environmental Planning team, Waste Education Officers and Bushcrew of Banyule City Council for the Banyule community.

There is a web version of this booklet on Council’s web site that is updated regularly and contains more detail on some topics than there is room for here.

We wish to thank Hugh Butcher for his dedication in the preparation of the first draft of this booklet.

Thankyou to Ian Moodie, Charles Grech and Pete Wiltshire for the use of their fantastic photos.

Thankyou to Wendy and Ross Mather from the Food Farm for compost information.

Credits

Hardenbergia illustration by Jan Smith

Introduction 2

Garden design 3

Design ideas 4

Mulch 7

Composting 8

Saving water 11

Greywater 13

Sustainable and recycled materials 15

Replenish garden 16

Plant selection 17

Indigenous plants 18

Weeds 26

Weed control methods 27

List of weeds 28

Propagation 32

Vegetable gardening 34

Habitat gardening 36

Environmental groups 39

Further information 40

Contents

This booklet has been designed to aid change from conception right through to completion. Key themes of outdoor sustainability are introduced throughout the booklet giving the reader the knowledge and techniques to achieve change. A checklist of change can be found in the middle pages to pull out and audit your work. There is also a list of local resources such as native nurseries and local businesses that use sustainable products.

You too can: • Plant indigenous plants to provide habitat • Change waste disposal practices to return organic matter to your soil • Save money by reusing materials

Introduction

2

Gardens can provide habitat, play spaces for children, produce vegetables and be a place to relax or entertain. Consider these when designing.

1. Visit public gardens and parklands. Take photographs and ask the garden managers for planting lists. Use books and magazines to find pictures of appealing landscapes. Consider the environmental impact of different types of gardens. Lawns require a lot of water and time.

2. Sketch the shape of your garden from a birds-eye-view. Mark the location of existing trees, lawn, sheds, paths and other features you want to keep.

3. Look at your garden at different times of day and in different seasons. Locate the wet and dry spots, sunny and shady spots. Record these in your sketch map.

4. On scrap paper draw the features you would like to add to your garden using the same scale as your sketch map. These features may include a vegetable patch, a pond, a lawn area, garden beds and trees. Move them around your sketch map considering the location of existing features and conditions.

5. Move around your garden with your sketch map. Imagine the space with the planned features in place. Visualise the views you are creating from windows and the views you are blocking. Imagine how you will move through the space when the new features are in place and make changes required.

6. Use string and wooden pegs to mark out the location of new features. Measure the size of different zones to calculate the quantity of materials to purchase. Your garden is now ready for implementation but before you start keep reading. Sections on mulching, weed control and plant selection will help you proceed.

If you’re still looking for inspiration you may want to adapt the following designs to your space.

Garden design

3

Design Ideas Modern

G

arden

Clim

ber

Pandorea pandorana H

ardenbergia violaceae Clem

entis microphylla

Gro

un

d C

over#3

Correa reflexa Correw

wa glabra

Lomandra longifolia

Gro

un

d C

over #2

Dianella revoluta or longifolia

Lomandra filiform

is Poa spp.

Gro

un

d C

over #1

Brachyscome m

uiltifida Chrysocephalum

semipapposum

Austraonthonia racem

osa

Med

ium

Tree

Eucalyptus polyanthemos

Eucalyptus radiata Allocasuarina littoralis S

mall T

ree Acacia im

plexa Acacia pycnatha S

hru

b

Bursaria spinosa Callistem

on sieberi Indigofera australis

Feature

4

Bushland

G

ardenTree

Midd

le Sto

reyM

iddle S

torey

Law

n

Midd

le Sto

rey

Path

5

Midd

le Sto

rey Acacia acinacea Bursaria spinosa Coprosm

a quadrifida Indigofera australis G

oodenia ovata Correa spp. Pom

ademis aspera

Rubus parvifolius Tetratheca ciliata

Ind

igeno

us L

awn

M

icrolaena stipoides Austrodanthonia spp. D

ichondra repens

Gro

un

d covers

Dichelachne crinata

Chloris truncata Austrodanthonia caespitosa Brachyscom

e muitifida

Kennedia prostrata Bulbine bulbosa Arthropodium

strictum

Dianella spp.

Wahlenbergia spp.

Leptorhynchos squamatus

Craspedia variabilis Chrysocephalum

semipapposum

Them

eda triandra Lom

andra filiformis

Viola hederacea Pelargonium

australe

Trees

Eucalyptus polyanthemos

Eucalyptus radiata Acacia pycnantha Acacia m

elanoxvlonM

iddle S

torey

Design Ideas Cottage Style

Herbaceous G

arden

Law

n

Use a great variety of species for

a less formal look. For a form

al look choose only one species from

each level and plant in rows.

Low

Plan

ts Brachyscom

e muiltifida

Chrysocephalum sem

ipapposum

Bulbine bulbosa Pelargonium

australe Them

eda triandra D

ichelachne crinata W

ahlenbergia spp.

Med

ium

Plan

ts Tetratheca ciliata Poa spp. Lom

andra longifolia D

ianella spp. Correa spp. Pim

elea spp.

High

er Plan

ts Indigofera australis Kunzea ericoides (use sparingly) G

oodenia ovata Acacia acinaceae Prostanthera lasianthos

Ind

igeno

us L

awn

s M

icrolaena stipoides Austrodanthonia spp. D

ichondra repens

6

Mulch stops weeds and holds water in the soil. Below are some different types of mulches.

Chipped woody vegetation Lopped branches that have been chipped make fantastic and inexpensive mulch. Purchase it from tree loppers but ask for mulch free of weedy seeds. Containing leaves and wood chips, it breaks down gradually, more closely mimicking the natural leaf litter cycle so it’s healthier for soil dwelling organisms. Spread this mulch to a thickness of 5 cm on damp soil. Keep away from trunks/stems to prevent rotting. Wood chips with no leafy material can be purchased from many nurseries. This type of mulch will last well and look more formal but is often more expensive.

Stones and pebbles Useful in suppressing weeds in areas where people walk across, stones allow water to pass through avoiding the run off caused by solid paving. It is important to check with the supplier that stones and pebbles are sourced from a sustainable location.

Lucerne / pea straw Mulches with no woody component are useful for vegetable gardens as they feed the soil, but break down too quickly for other applications.

Recycled or reused materials Recycled glass and rubber tyre mulches are available in a variety of colours (see page 15). These mulches will not breakdown. They may be useful for no-dig ornamental gardens and children’s play areas but are not suitable in a bed where digging and replanting occurs.

Old woollen carpet, newspapers and cardboard may be used to suppress difficult to control weeds. Woollen carpet (or commercially available jute mat) can also be used to hold loose soil on a steep slope. They can create a barrier to air and water flow into the soil below, so only use them when chipped mulch is not an option.

Before spreading the mulch you should remove unwanted vegetation. See weed control page 27.

Mulch

7

Composting Nature’s recipe for recycling

Composting is the process of organic substances (food, garden waste and other materials) breaking down whilst housed in a large container or heap. Decomposition is performed by a variety of bacteria, invertebrates and fungi. Once fully decomposed, the dark soil-like substance can be incorporated into existing soil structures providing nutrients. Compost needs carbon e.g. dry leaves, paper, straw, and nitrogen e.g. food scraps, fresh grass, manures. It needs turning for oxygen, water for moisture and a minimum size area of 1m3.

Composting reduces: • Rubbish going to landfill & the greenhouse gas methane produced by landfills • The need to purchase artificial fertilisers • Water loss in soils

Compost Recipe - developed by Ross & Wendy Mather, Food Farm

The base ingredient is one bucket of vegetable scraps, or fresh grass/weeds add to this one item from nitrogen column and any two items from carbon column. Too much carbon slows decomposition and too much nitrogen smells.

Nitrogen Carbon

1 bucket manure 1 bucket straw

2 cups pelletised manure 1 bucket paper

1 cup blood and bone 1 bucket leaves

1 bucket lucerne 1 bucket sawdust

1 bucket sugarcane mulch

8

carbon: leaves

nitrogen: manure

carbon: shredded paper

carbon sticks & twigs

nitroge:n: food scraps

Tight lid to stop pests

wire mesh to stop pests

Shady treeDo not add to compost Glossy paper, treated pine, pet food & faeces, weeds with bulbs or runners, lime, large branches, sprayed weeds, glass, meat, bone & dairy.

Getting Started: • Set up a small bin (5L) in the kitchen for food scraps. • With all house members, make a list of what can and cannot be composted and stick it to the fridge or the bin’s lid.

Setting Up: • Obtain a compost bin. Council and gardens centres have many types available for as little as $35. If you have the space, try and make it yourself • Position the compost bin in part sun • Always cover your bin to stop bad odours and avoid pests.

Aeration: Speed up decomposition and minimise odours by turning the compost weekly. Do not add compost worms they won’t live in a hot heap. Earthworms will naturally come in when the heap is cooled. A compost corkscrew tool will help with aeration.

9

Composting

Water: If dry add water. If wet add dry matter, shredded paper, autumn leaves, sawdust and turn the heap.

Compost Use: Compost is ready for use when you no longer recognise ingredients and becomes dark and crumbly.

Health and Safety Occasionally, illness and allergies can occur from exposure to the living organisms in compost. Therefore, it is important to: • Always wear gloves when handling compost • Wash hands after exposure to compost ingredients • Keep compost moist to prevent airborne spores or bacteria being inhaled • Wear a face mask if particularly sensitive

WORM FARMS: Worm farms recycle fruit, vegetable and garden matter and are great for small gardens. Keep cool and shaded. Worm castings are a natural fertiliser that can be mixed in with your garden’s soil. Purchase worm farms from garden centres or make your own.

BOKASHIS: Bokashis are ideal for offices and apartments transforming kitchen waste into a soil conditioner. Odourless, they can be kept inside.

For more information on compost see the references and links on page 40.

10

Saving waterin your garden

The garden accounts for nearly 35% of a typical household’s water use. There is a number of water saving techniques that we can use.

For information about current water restrictions visit: www.ourwater.vic.gov.au

RAINWATER TANKS Rainwater tanks divert rain from your gutter into a storage container. Rain water is free and collecting it reduces the stress on our storm water system. Melbourne’s average annual rainfall is 638.8 mm. For every square meter of roofing, approximately 1 litre of water is diverted per millimetre of rainfall, which means the collection potential is huge! When considering installing a water tank, determine what your water tank will be used for. For example, a 2,000 litre tank is suitable for flushing a single toilet. While a 5,000 litre tank is suitable for a toilet and washing machine and a 10,000 litre tank is ideal for watering your garden.

Some Tips on tank installation: • Locate the tank a minimum of 1m away from boundaries • Direct overflow into the stormwater legal point of discharge • Position the tank high up to eliminate the need for a pump • Make sure the tank’s weight when full is well supported • Seek professional advise before purchasing your tank • Is the rainwater tank to be installed for a purpose other than domestic use? • Will the tank be installed on a property affected by a Heritage Overlay under the Banyule Planning Scheme? • Will you be constructing a permanent structure to support the rainwater tank?

If you answered ‘yes’ to any of the questions above, or are not sure, a planning permit may be required for your rainwater tank. Please contact Banyule’s Planning Department: 9490 4222.

11

Council does not encourage drinking of harvested rainwater because mains drinking water is readily available. However, there are systems available that can treat rainwater to drinking standards.

WATERING YOUR GARDEN

Drip or Trickle Irrigation Systems Drip or Trickle irrigation systems apply water slowly to the root zones of plants via a series of connected plastic or rubber piping. If used under mulch, they minimise loss from evaporation, wind and runoff.

Deep/Direct watering systems Products like water saving cones direct water to plants’ roots used in conjunction with hand watering. The cone is partially submerged in the soil adjacent to the plant. Home-made alternatives such as AGI piping or soft drink bottles can be used in the same way.

Other Water Saving Tips: • Fit your hose with a trigger nozzle. Required under water saving regulations. • Use rainwater to spot clean the car. • Avoid using ‘Micro-spray’ water systems the majority of water released can be lost through wind and evaporation. • Fit tap timers to irrigation systems. • Maximise efficiency of irrigation systems by ensuring that watering heads are pointed in the direction of plants and not paths or driveways. • Group plants with similar water requirements together. • Use mulch to reduce evaporation ( see Mulch on page 7 ).

For more information on tanks and rebates refer to page 40.

Saving water

12

Greywater

Greywater is the wastewater from the laundry and bathroom, excluding toilet waste (black water). Caution must be taken when using untreated greywater on our gardens as harmful bacteria, nitrogen, phosphorous and sodium may be present. Bacteria may be harmful to humans and pets. Detergents may damage soil structure and permeability. However, by following a simple list of do’s and don’ts greywater re-use is a safe way to save water, money and maintain a thriving garden.

Do: • Only use greywater from baths, showers, and washing machines • Use detergents that are low in phosphorous, nitrogen and sodium • Check if your plants are healthy: yellow leaves indicate a problem • Ensure there is no runoff from your property • Rotate the area of the garden that you use your greywater on regularly • Turn off diverter during rain and wet periods • Only apply greywater to the point that the soil can absorb • Wash your hands after watering with greywater.

Don’t: • Use greywater on edible plants like vegetable gardens • Use greywater that has high levels of oil, bleaches, toothpaste or water from heavily soiled items (e.g. dishwasher, nappies, kitchen sink) • Use greywater that is warmer than 40ºC • Store greywater for longer than 24 hours unless it is treated • Allow greywater to overflow into stormwater drains or neighbouring properties (overflow should be returned to the sewage system).

13

Greywater

(There are three simple ways in which to reuse greywater :)

1. Simple Diversion: Greywater is diverted to the garden as it is produced. Access greywater by removing inspection caps on the elbows of the pipes which exit bathrooms and laundries (located just outside your home’s external walls). Install a suitable diversionary device or hose to run the water onto you garden or into a below surface irrigation system. Avoid misting or spraying directly onto foliage. Currently, there are no EPA or Banyule City Council regulations that govern the diversion of greywater. More complex installations require a plumber.

2. Diversion and Storage: Any greywater system that stores water for reuse or treatment is classified as a septic system and require approval by the EPA and a permit obtained from the Council’s Health Department. These systems have the advantage of allowing stored water to be released in response to your garden’s needs. Untreated greywater can only be held for 24 hours without a permit.

3. Diversion, Storage and Treatment: Greywater is diverted water from the source (e.g. shower, washing machine etc) then passed through a series of biological and disinfection treatments with the aid of water pumps. It can be safely stored for use in the garden, re-use in washing machines & toilets. Treatment cells usually divert any excess grey water straight into the sewer.

Understanding our impact on our waterways: All households are inextricably linked to our local waterways through stormwater drains. These drains carry rainwater, and impurities from our driveways and streets to our waterway. To protect the health of the Darebin Creek, Salt Creek, Plenty River and the Yarra, keep stormwater drains free of:

• Leaves • Paints • Solvents • Sand • Pet droppings • Plastic • Dirt • Driveway gravel • Plant materials

This will go a long way to keeping our waterways and the habitat they support healthy.

You can also join Waterwatch, a national community based water quality monitoring program aimed at raising community awareness, understanding and ownership of water quality issues. Contact Banyule’s Waterwatch Coordinator on: 9457 9885

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Sustainable and recycled materials

Hard Materials: The use of hard materials such as timber, river pebbles and sand can deplete valuable ecosystems. Be sure to ask whether the product you are interested in comes from a sustainable source.

The Good Environmental Choice Label is a voluntary label program that helps identify timber products that have come from approved reclaimed, salvaged and recycled resources. They have partners in the United States, Asia and are part of the Global Ecolabelling network.

Forestry Stewardship Council (FSC): Is an international label that recognises products that incorporate the growth of responsible forest practices.

Recyclable Packaging Choose products that once used can be recycled. The Banyule Materials Recovery Facility (MRF) can presently recycle paper and cardboard (not waxed), glass, aluminium and steel containers and plastic codes 1 - 7.

Many items in and around the home can also be easily turned into useful tools in the garden. Reusing materials and using recycled products will minimise the amount of rubbish going to landfill.

ITEM USE

Soft drink bottles and AGI pipe Deep Watering system (page 12) Aerating compost (page 9)

Glass Bottles Fill with water to drown snails

Ice Cream Punnets Catching rain water for garden

Old Stockings Tying plants to stakes

Unwanted CD’s Hung with string their reflection acts as a bird deterrent

Cardboard and woollen carpet Weed mat

15

Replenish Garden The Replenish Garden at the Banyule Operations Centre demonstrates the importance of waste minimisation and resource conservation and recovery in achieving environmental sustainability. Almost everything is from recycled sources from wall structures to board walks to mulches. To view the Replenish Garden please contact: Rethink Coordinator 9490 4532, or visit www.rethink.vic.gov.au to download a list of recycled product suppliers.

For more information regarding sustainable suppliers please visit:

Ecobuy www.ecobuy.org.au Created to encourage the purchasing of green products in Australia.

The Global Ecolablling Network

http://www.gen.gr.jp Develops the “ecolabelling” of products & services internationally.

Ecospecifier http://www.ecospecifier.org/ Lists Australian sustainable & healthy material sources.

Forestry Stewardship Council

www.fsc.org/ Their label helps consumers to identify sustainable products worldwide.

Good Environmental Choice Ltd.

http://www.aela.org.au Governs the Good Environmental Choice label and much more.

Sustainable and recycled materials

16

Banyule City Council recommends planting locally indigenous plants to create habitat and enhance our local environment.

What are indigenous plants? Indigenous plants are those which occur naturally in the local area. Over 300 species have been recorded within Banyule. They range from huge gum trees to delicate lilies.

Why plant indigenous plants in your garden? • Adapted to local conditions they cope with our weather • Many species of birds, mammals, reptiles and insects are dependent on indigenous plants for habitat and food • A part of the local ecosystem they won’t become weedy • Indigenous vegetation planted on private land connects remnant bushland helping species to survive in the long term • Indigenous plants help to define the character of Banyule

How do you select the best plants for your garden? Read: The following publications list indigenous plants • This booklet (page 18) • Banyule’s Indigenous Plants for Your Garden poster • Flora of Melbourne • Native Plants of Melbourne and Adjoining Areas (Jones) • Native Trees and Shrubs of South-eastern Australia (Costermans) • Sustainable Gardening Australia www.sgaonline.org.au

Look: Visit local parks and indigenous gardens such as: • Burnley Gardens indigenous garden, Burnley • Edendale Farm Community Environment Centre, Eltham • Royal Botanic Gardens at Cranbourne showcases native plants • Banyule parklands such as Banyule Flats in Viewbank

Ask: Staff at specialist indigenous nurseries • Melbourne Wildlife Sanctuary Nursery • Victorian Indigenous Nursery Co-Operative

Plant selection

17

Yellow Box: Eucalyptus melliodora

Size: 10-30 X 8-25m Growth: blue-green foliage, box type lower bark becoming smooth on upper branches, cream honey-scented flowers in spring-summer

Use: dry, well drained soils, flowers attract nectar eating insects and birds

Indigenous plants of Banyule

Legend:

Full Sun Shade

Semi Shade Drought Efficient

Birds & Insects Food / Habitat Source

Mammal Food / Habitat Source

Lightwood: Acacia implexa

Size: 5-15 X 4-7m Growth: Fast growing, long lived, summer flowering tree with clusters of cream flowers and crescent shaped foliage Use: dry, well drained soils

Blackwood: Acacia melanoxylon

Size: 5-30 X 4-15m Growth: Long lived tree, winter-spring pale yellow flowers, followed by twisted seed pods, with glossy green foliage

Use: deep moist soils, tolerates poor drainage, a nice feature tree

Golden Wattle: Acacia pycnantha

Size: 3-10 X 2-5m Growth: Fast growing, with large drooping phyllodes, masses of golden flowers in winter-spring Use: dry, well drained soils as a great source of colourful blossom

Trees

18

Sweet Bursaria: Bursaria spinosa

Size: 2-6 X 2-3m Growth: slow growing, small glossy leaves, usually with spines along branches, masses of cream fragrant flowers in summer followed by clusters of bronze seed pods Use: Most soil types, plant to attract birds and nectar feeding insects.

River Bottlebrush: Callistemon sieberi

Size: 3-10 X 2-6m Growth: fast growing, multi stemmed shrub with long narrow, cream or soft pink flower spikes in summer-autumn Use: Moist, poorly drained soils. Pruning after flowering encourages more flowers and maintains a compact shape. Attracts nectar feeding birds and insects.

Red Box: Eucalyptus polyanthemos

Size: 7-25 X 5-15m Growth: slow growing, rounded blue-grey leaves, grey box-type bark, cream flowers in spring

Use: dry, well drained soils, tolerates poor stony soils

Narrow-leaf Peppermint: Eucalyptus radiata

Size: 10-30 X 6-20m Growth: low branching tree with dense canopy and strongly aromatic leaves, creamy white flowers in spring-summer

Use: moist, well drained soils, sheltered slopes

Victorian Christmas Bush: Prostanthera lasianthos

Growth: shrub with soft mint leaves and showy purple spotted white flowers in summer

Use: Prefers moist loamy soils, prune to increase density and longevity

Large Shrubs

19

Prickly Moses: Acacia verticillata

Size: 2-6 X 3-5m Growth: Fast growing, open shrub with fine prickly foliage, pale yellow flower spikes in winter-spring

Use: Prefers moist soils. A dense shrub suitable for screening.

Gold Dust Wattle: Acacia acinacea

Size: 0.5-2.5 X 2-4m Growth: Open spreading shrub with small rounded phyllodes, masses of yellow flowers along branches in spring-summer Use: Prefers dry, well drained soils, tolerates poor soils, often self-seeding in the garden. A great source of blossom.

Medium Shrubs

Shiny Cassinia: Cassinia longifolia

Size: 2-4 X 2-3m Growth: Fast growing, erect shrub with fine aromatic glossy leaves, creamy clusters of flowers in summer

Use: Tolerating a range of conditions this shrub provides cut flowers

Rock Correa: Correa glabra

Size: 1-3 X 1-3m Growth: Fast growing, dense shrub with glossy aromatic oval leaves, greenish yellow, bell-shaped flowers in spring

Use: Tolerating a range of conditions this popular plant can be shaped into a low hedge. Common Correa: Correa reflexa is a slightly smaller local Correa and can be used in the same way.

Hop Goodenia: Goodenia ovata

Size: 1-2.5 X 1-3m Growth: Fast growing and adaptable spreading shrub with bright green ovate leaves, yellow flowers in spring-summer Use: Prefers moist soils, this shrub will flower for a long period. Prune very heavily every 2-3 years

20

Austral Indigo: Indigofera australis

Size: 1-2 X 1-2m Growth: Fast growing, delicate open shrub with grey-green pinnate leaves, showy pink flowers in winter-spring Use: Prefers sheltered sites. This shrub looks good as a contrast amongst other species.

Woolly Tea Tree: Leptospermum lanigerum

Size: 2-6 X 1-3m Growth: Fast growing, dense shrub with silky grey foliage, masses of white flowers in spring, woody seed capsules

Use: Prefers moist soils, tolerates poor drainage, seed capsules make an interesting feature

Snowy Daisy-bush: Olearia lirata

Size: 2-5 X 2-3m Growth: Fast growing, open shrub with large, narrow, velvety leaves, masses of white daisy flowers in spring

Use: Prefers moist, well drained soils

Nodding Saltbush: Einadia nutans

Size: 0.3 X 1.2m Growth: Scrambling shrub with small arrow-shaped leaves, inconspicuous flowers followed by numerous red or yellow berries in summer-autumn

Use: Useful as a ground cover on dry or compacted soil.

Low Shrubs:

Native Raspberry: Rubus parvifolius

Size: 0.6-1 X 0.5-2m Growth: shrub or ground cover with thorny scrambling branches and small divided leaves, pink flowers in spring followed by red edible berries similar to raspberries

Use: Prefers moist, well drained soils. An unusual addition to a food producing garden

21

Tall Daisy: Brachyscome diversifolia

Size: 20-50cm high Growth: Small creeping clump with fine foliage, white daisy flowers.

Use: Prefers dry, well drained soils. Long flowering period.

Pink Bells: Tetratheca ciliata

Size: 0.3 X 0.3m Growth: Erect or spreading shrub with whorls of small oval leaves, fragrant pink bell flowers in spring-summer Use: Prefers moist, well drained soils, very attractive when flowering.

Groundcovers and Small herbs

Chocolate Lily: Arthropodium strictum

Size: 0.2-1.0 X 0.2-0.8m Growth: Chocolate scented flowers in spring-summer. Fine, strappy foliage dies back after flowering each year. Use: A delicate plant for an open area.

Cut-leaf Daisy: Brachyscome multifida

Size: 0.1-0.4 X 0.2-1m Growth: Low Spreading mound with fine feathery foliage, white, pink or purple daisy flowers most of the year Use: Prefers moist, well drained soils, this popular plant looks good along side paths.

Yellow Bulbine-lily: Bulbine bulbosa

Size: 0.2-0.6 X 0.3m Growth: Densely tufted perennial with erect green succulent leaves that die back each year. Yellow flowers form in clusters in spring- summer.

Use: Prefers moist, well drained soils, sheltered slopes, plains.

22

Clustered Everlasting: Chrysocephalum semipapposum

Size: 0.3-1 X 1-3m Growth: Large spreading herb with upright stems of silvery foliage, clustered gold flowers in spring-summer

Use: Prefers dry, well drained soils, prune after flowering

Billy Buttons: Craspedia variabilis

Size: 0.3 X 0.5-1m Growth: Tufting rosette of soft grey leaves, large golden button flowers on erect stems in spring-summer Use: Prefers moist, well drained soils

Smooth Flax-lily: Dianella longifolia

Size: 0.3-0.8 (flowers held above) x 0.5m Growth: Tufting plant with glossy green leaves and numerous small purple and yellow flowers held on long stems. Flowers are followed by attractive purple berries. Use: Prefers moist soils, provided a contrasting form to shrubs in a garden bed. Black Anther Flax-lily, Dianella revoluta, has darker foliage and spreads into large clumps. Grows well under established trees.

Kidney Weed: Dichondra repens

Size: very low and spreading Growth: Creeping mat plant with ‘kidney-shaped’ green leaves, inconspicuous flowers

Use: Tolerates a range of conditions but will grow more densely in moist conditions. Good lawn substitute in low traffic areas.

Running Postman: Kennedia prostrata

Size: Very low and spreading Growth: Densely matted groundcover with grey-green leaves and scarlet pea flowers along stems in autumn-spring

Use: Dry, well drained soils, use on slopes or in beds with seasonal plants.

23

Austral Stork’s-Bill: Pelargonium australe

Size: 03-0.6 X 0.3-1m Growth: Sprawling plant with aromatic hairy foliage, red striped white or pink flowers in spring-summer. Often self seeds. Use: Most soil types.

Common Wallaby Grass: Austrodanthonia caespitosa

Size: 0.2-0.4 X 0.4m Growth: erect tussock, decorative fluffy flower heads in spring-summer

Use: Wallaby grasses come in a variety of sizes, some with showy seed heads, some a good lawn alternative in dry, compacted soil.

Ivy-leaf Violet: Viola hederacea

Size: very low and spreading Growth: Colonising ground cover, white and purple flowers displayed above foliage for most of the year Use: Prefers moist, well drained soils, and sheltered sites. Useful weed suppressing ground cover

Grasses, Rushes and Sedges

Spiny-headed Mat-rush: Lomandra longifolia

Size: 0.5-1 X 0.5-1.2m Growth: Upright or arching clump with narrow strap-like leaves, globular yellow flowers on spikes in spring Use: Prefers moist areas. Copes well with shade and compaction. Commonly used on road sides.

Weeping Grass: Microlaena stipoides

Size: 03-0.6m with seed heads higher Growth: low spreading grass remaining green throughout the year ; drooping flower heads in spring, summer

Use: Prefers moist, well drained soils, an excellent indigenous lawn grass.

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Kangaroo Grass: Themeda triandra

Size: 0.4 X 0.7m Growth: Small-medium tussock, unusual decorative flowers held above foliage in summer Use: Prefers moist, well drained soils, can be used as a lawn alternative.

Common Tussock Grass: Poa labillardieri

Size: 0.3-0.8 X 1.2m Growth: large tussock, loose plumes of flowers heads in spring-summer

Use: Prefers moist soils. Seeds eaten by small birds. Cut back hard in late summer to promote new, green growth.

Common Apple Berry: Billardiera scandens

Growth: Shrubby light to medium climber, green-yellow bell flowers most of the year, edible fruit

Use: Grow in a sheltered location. This is not a vigorous climber.

Climbers

Old Man’s Beard: Clematis aristata

Growth: Vigorous climber with dark foliage, masses of white star flowers in spring followed by fluffy seed heads

Use: Great for flowers along a fence

Small-leaf Clematis: Clematis microphylla

Growth: Light-medium climber, cream star flowers in spring followed by fluffy seed heads Use: Can be grown as a climber or a ground cover where there is no support. Seed heads are an attractive feature.

Purple Coral Pea: Hardenbergia violacea

Growth: medium trailing or climbing plant with deep green leathery foliage, showy purple pea flowers in spring

Use: Grow up a structure such as a fence or use as a ground cover.

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Exotic weeds are plants whose origin is outside Australia. Native weeds are plants that have evolved within Australia but are found outside their original ecosystem and are having a negative impact.

Declared Noxious weeds are plants that have been proclaimed under the Victorian Catchment and Land Protection Act (1994). The legislation requires that these weeds be controlled or eradicated.

Environmental weeds threaten natural ecosystems. They can invade native plant communities and out-compete local plants. Invasions of environmental weeds often result in loss of habitat for native fauna. Environmental weeds can also be declared noxious weeds for example Blackberry and Boneseed however not all environmental weeds are listed as noxious.

Sleeper weeds have not become a problem yet but have the potential to do so. Identification of sleeper weeds early on will allow more effective control.

Most weeds arrived in Australia as garden plants that escaped. They often come from a similar climate and are very good at reproducing. They may produce large quantities of seed such as Chilean Needle Grass. They may have bulbs that persist in the soil such as Oxalis. They may produce berries that are eaten by birds distributing seeds a considerable distance from the parent plant such as Cotoneaster and Hawthorn. Gardeners can reduce the impact that weeds have by choosing plants for their gardens that are not invasive.

Banyule’s Weed Management Strategy lists all the weed species for our area and can be found on Banyule’s web site.

What is a weed?A plant in the wrong place.

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Manual Weed Control Weeding allows precise control of what is removed but can create soil disturbance leading to germination of more weeds. Some plants are difficult to weed because they have deep roots or bulbs that remain in the soil and re-grow.

Herbicide Control All herbicides carry risks to the user and other plants. Always follow the label on the product you choose and if in doubt, hire a professional.

Foliage spray application is the most common way of applying herbicide. Numerous small emerging weeds in a garden bed can be targeted reducing the need for weeding. Spray drift can damage off-target plants. Avoid this by spraying on a calm day and away from desired plants.

Cut and paint application is used for plants that have waxy leaves that do not absorb herbicide. Cut the stem close to the ground and immediately apply herbicide. If small weedy shrubs are growing amongst desired plants this removal technique will leave other plants and the soil undisturbed.

Other methods Mowing and Slashing – control of some weeds can be achieved by mowing them regularly to prevent seed set.

Heat – steam can be used to kill plants that have fleshy foliage and insignificant roots such as Wandering Trad. Black plastic laid over weedy areas during summer can also weaken plants before weeding.

Suppression - stop weeds returning using mulch (see page7) and replant with desired plants.

Weed control methods

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Weeds of Banyule

Trees and shrubs - Control: • Pull out when small • Cut and paint • Drill and fill

Plants with berries are spread by birds so it’s important to always be on the lookout for seedlings.

Blackberry Rubus fruticosus spp. agg.

Boneseed Chrysanthemoides monilifera

Box Elder Acer negundo

Boxthorn Lycium ferocissimum

Briar Rose Rosa rubiginosa

Cape Broom Genista monspessulana

Cherry Plum Prunus cerasifera

Cootamundra Wattle Acacia baileyana

Cotoneaster Cotoneaster spp.

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Grasses and strappy leafed plants - Control:

• Foliage spray • Hand weed • Slash to prevent seeding Make sure seeds are not dropping onto the ground when weeding – you’ve left it too late! Angled Onion and Onion Grass will also spread via bulbs so only attempt weeding when they first emerge.

Desert Ash Fraxinus angustifolia

Flax-leaf Broom Genista linifolia

Gorse Ulex europaeus

Hawthorn Crataegus monogyna

Madeira Winter Cherry Solanum pseudocapsicum

Mirror Bush Coprosma repens

Monterey Pine Pinus radiata

Pittosporum Pittosporum undulatum

Privet Ligustrum lucidum

Agapanthus Agapanthus praecox

Angled Onion Allium triquetrum

Chilean Needle Grass Nasella neesiana

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Cocksfoot Dactylis glomeratum

Kikuyu Pennisetum clandestinum

Onion Grass Romulea rosea

Serrated Tussock Nasella trichotoma

Sweet Vernal Grass Anthoxanthum odoratum

Veldt Grass Ehrharta longifolia and erecta

Buttercup Ranunculus repens

Cape Weed Arctotheca calendula

Fennel Foeniculum vulgare

Nightshade Solanum nigrum

Paterson’s Curse Echium plantagineum

Soursob Oxalis pes-caprae

Small herbaceous plants - Control:

• Foliage Spray • Hand weed • Use mulch to stop them coming back

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Climbers and creepers - Control: • Foliage spray • Hand weed • Cut and paint any woody growth

Many climbers are difficult to hand weed because segments of roots and stems break off and continue to grow.

Blue Periwinkle Vinca major

Bridal creeper Asparagus asparagoides

Cape Ivy Delairea odorata

Ivy Hedera helix

Kapok Vine Araujia sericifera

Wandering Tradescantia Tradescantia fluminensis

Thistles

Including Cirsium, Carduus, Oncosiphon, Silybum and Sonchus spp.

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Propagation of indigenous plants

Propagating your own plants can save money and be very satisfying. If you plan to collect seed or cuttings from a park, you will need a licence.

Propagation from seed Seed raising mixture must be light, free draining and sterile. Seeds should be covered with soil to about the same depth as the seed is wide. Some seeds will not germinate until dormancy is broken.

Use this technique for: • Plants in the Daisy (Asteraceae) family – don’t cover seeds • Eucalypts and related plants such as melaleucas (Myrtaceae family) • Grasses such as tussock grasses (Poaceae family) • Plants with fleshy fruits or berries • Wattles (Acacia species); and others.

Dormancy Many seeds will not start to grow unless dormancy is broken. Dormancy is useful in the wild because it stops the seeds from germinating until conditions are right. Some techniques for breaking dormancy: • Scarification – damage the seed coat (hard outer surface) by rubbing with coarse sandpaper. This often helps to germinate wattles. • Soak – in hot, not boiling water. You should see the seeds swelling • Store – some seeds will not germinate when fresh • Remove flesh – of berries by soaking then agitating.

Propagation by cuttings This vegetative propagation technique involves taking a segment of stem from an existing plant and encouraging it to grow roots of its own.

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Use this technique for: • Plants in the Daisy (Asteraceae) family • Correas • Austral Stork’s Bill; and others.

How to do it: 1. Use a free draining moist mixture containing coarse sand.

2. Collect plant stems that are relatively young but not brand new growth. The segment should include a node near the bottom.

3. Remove most of the leaves except two at the top.

4. Plant in the cutting mixture ensuring that the node is submerged. You may choose to use a commercial rooting hormone.

5. Keep mix moist.

Propagation by division Division involves breaking an original plant into several segments each with its own foliage and roots. Trim the foliage as roots are often lost in the process. Use a knife, secateurs or a sharp spade.

Use this technique for : • Grasses • Rushes • Sedges

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Vegetable gardening

Growing your own food is a great way to live sustainably and have fun outside, too! You can cut down on transport costs and greenhouse emissions, maximise taste, freshness and vitamin content.

Permaculture and growing vegetables: Permaculture is based around the idea of working with nature rather than against it. It involves planning and managing the planting of fruit and vegetables to maximise a year round sustainable harvest. Consider :

Location Many plants have different requirements of sunlight, soil type and protection from wind. Peas for example, need a sheltered site, while some lettuces can grow in part shade. Take these elements into account.

Planting Regimes Planting the appropriate crop at the right time can make a substantial difference to how successful your home grown fruit and vegetables are.

Cool Season Planting 1:

Cool Season Planting 2:

Warm Season

Climate for sowing: 5-25oC Avoid planting in warm months

Climate:10-25oC Slightly more tolerant of warm conditions

Climate: 15-30oC Originating in the tropics. Not tolerant of frost

Artichoke Beetroot Beans

Broad Bean Celery Capsicum and Chillies

Broccoli Fennel Tomato

Cabbage Carrot Corn

Leeks Cauliflower Cucumber and Pumpkin

Onions Lettuce Eggplant

Peas Potatoes Melons

Radish Rhubarb Zucchini and Squash

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Organic Fertilisers An effective and cheap way to add vital nutrients to your soil is through compost (see page 8). Additional organic fertilizers include:

Fish emulsion: fertilizer made from processed fish products including carp (a freshwater pest species), which are suitable for organic gardening.

Seaweed extract: A fertilizer available in ether liquid or granules.

Animal manure: Commonly used are chicken, pig and horse manure.

Companion Planting Many fruit trees and vegetables benefit from growing next to plants (such as herbs) that serve as a biological control of pests (like insects). Companion planting helps but it alone cannot stop pets. Examples of companion planting include:

HERB PEST THEY REPEL PLANT WITH

Sage and Mint White Cabbage Moth Cabbages

Basil Flies and mosquitoes Tomatoes

Catnip Fleas, ants and rodents Eggplant

Garlic Aphids Roses, Raspberries

Coriander Aphids All Vegetables

Let plants such as carrots, parsley, parsnips & celery go to flower as they attract predator insects into the garden that eat the pests. Otherwise remove pests by hand and keep plants healthy to reduce invasion.

Seed Saving Seed saving can help maintain a variety of vegetables to suit needs (e.g. high yield) and tastes. Seeds can keep from 1-5+ years. When collecting seeds from your own crops remember to: • Collect seeds from fully ripe fruit. • Wind dispersed seeds (e.g. carrots, beetroot) are ready to be collected when they are dry and easily separated from the flower head. Shake them into paper bags. • Sun dry seeds prior to storage to reduce moisture content. • Remove fruit flesh as it can promote mould and fungus. • Store seeds in glass or plastic sealed jars in cool dry and dark place.

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Habitat Gardening

Habitat gardening is adapting your garden to attract more local animals. Insects and birds add interest to your garden and act as natural pest controllers. Habitat gardening also assists animals to move between bushland reserves by providing a corridor of vegetation. A variety of animals will reflect a healthy and well thought out garden.

Banyule is home to a wide range of native wildlife including:

• 224 species of native birds • 12 species of frogs • 23 kinds of reptile species • 9 species of native fish • 22 mammal species • Enormous number of invertebrate species

Bats Bats are largely nocturnal mammals and account for a quarter of all mammal species worldwide. There are two main types: megabats (e.g. fruit eating flying foxes) and microbats (e.g. insect eating Free-tail Bats). Support bats by retaining large, established trees as roosting sites.

Possums Possums adapted well to the urban environment. Brush and Ringtail possums are the most common in Banyule, although Sugar Gliders have been seen. Some people see possums as an indicator of a successful habitat garden, others see them as an unwelcome guest. There are ways to co-exist with our furry friends.

If they enter your roof cavity provide alternative nesting sites such as nest boxes. Boxes for a variety of species can be purchased from The Melbourne Wildlife Sanctuary. Possums are territorial so relocating them creates problems elsewhere. Relocating possums outside of your property is both illegal and inhumane. Block all entries into the roof and remove branches that grow close to your roof.

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Protect fruit, vegetables and flowers in your garden from possums by denying them access. Use metal collars around the trunks of trees, nets on fruit trees and prune branches that provide access.

Birds Common bird species recorded in Banyule backyards include:

• Superb Parrot • Powerful Owl • Musk Lorikeet • Laughing Kookaburra • Galah • Crested Pigeon • Eastern Spinebill • Eastern Rosella • Rainbow Lorikeet • Wood Duck • Tawny Frogmouth • Sulphur-crested Cockatoo • Australian White Ibis • Australian King Parrot • Red Wattlebird • Silvereye • Pied Currawong • Gang-gang Cockatoo

Shelter helps protect against cats and dogs and predatory birds. You can provide shelter by planting dense or prickly plants on a number of different canopy levels of your garden. Plant species that provide seeds and nectar. Smaller bird species such as wrens and thornbills occupy the lower levels of the garden, foraging on insects, while honeyeaters and wattlebirds are nectar specialists. Parrot species such as Crimson, Eastern rosellas and galahs feed on seeds.

Lizards and Snakes Garden skinks, Marbled geckos and Blue-tongued lizards can be found in gardens in Banyule. Attract them by planting tussock grasses and other clumping plants and placing logs and rocks amongst your plants. Lizards will help control insect and snail populations and provide food for birds such as kookaburras.

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All species of snake found in Banyule are poisonous and should be treated with caution. If you don’t want snakes in your garden remove dense vegetation at ground level. Make sure that chicken coups are snake proof and check for the presence of mice which can attract snakes.

Frogs Banyule is home to 12 species of frog divided into two main types: the southern ground frogs (family Myobatrachidae) and the tree frogs (family Hylidae). They provide a chorus of calls as they attract mates. Frogs can be attracted to your garden with a pond containing aquatic plants and no fish. It is illegal to move frogs and tadpoles so once your pond is constructed you’ll need to be patient. Allow some leaf litter to build up in the pond as tadpoles feed on decaying plant matter.

Insects The Eltham Copper Butterfly is one insect that is in need of more habitat in urban areas. It requires a specific shrub, Sweet Bursaria, for its larvae to feed on but many butterflies can be attracted to your garden simply by planting shrubs with high nectar producing flowers.

Invertebrates are an essential component of our ecosystems as they help pollinate plants, breakdown organic matter and are a food source for many other animals.

Do Don’t • Provide clean water bowls • Don’t let your cat out at night • Install nest boxes • Don’t feed wild animals daily • Plant a variety of plant species • Don’t leave pet food outside overnight including shrubs • Leave leaf litter and logs in garden beds

Habitat Gardening

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Banyule Environmental GroupsFriends of Darebin Creek PO Box 5036; Alphington 3078

www.friendsofdarebincreek.org.au

Friends of Diamond Creek 7 Leonard Cres; Eltham 3095

Friends of Nellie Ibbott Park 2 Maud St; Ivanhoe 3079

Friends of Plenty River Alice & Kevin Ley 1 Havelock Crt; Lower Plenty 3093

Friends of St Helena Bush Reserve

11 Dunbarton Dve; Eltham North 3095

Friends of Wilson Reserve 185 The Boulevard ; Ivanhoe East 3079 rbender@netlink.com.au

Darebin Parklands Association Inc.

PO Box 3; Ivanhoe 3079 www.dpa.org.au info@dpa.org.au

Friends of the Wildlife Reserves C/o La Trobe University; Bundoora 3083 http://home.vicnet.net.au/~fwlr/

Friends of Montmorency Bushlands

Pam Rowley 9439 1853 prowley@relax.com.au chris.callahan@banyule.vic.gov.au

Macleod Progress Asoc. Inc 74 Strathallan Road; MacLeod 3084

Rosanna Parklands Protection Association

www.roppa.org.au

Riverland Conservation Society PO BOX 246; Ivanhoe 3079 jmerory@bigpond.com

Friends of the Yarra Valley Parks PO Box 568; Templestowe 3106 www.yvfriends.org.au

Friends of Salt Creek PO Box 329; Rosanna 3084 foscap06@yahoo.com

Warringal Conservation Society PO Box 64; Rosanna 3084 www.warringal.org.au wcs@warringal.org.au

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Composting Sustainable Gardening Australia www.sgaonline.org.au Sustainability Victoria www.sustainability.vic.gov.au, Ph: 8626 8700 Ceres Community Environment Park http://ceres.org.au, Ph: 9387 2609 David and Yvonne Taylor, (1993) The Compost Book. David Murphy, (2005) Organic Growing with Worms Reln, www.reln.com.au Bokashi Bins www.bokashi.com.au

Saving Water Water restrictions and rebates: www.ourwater.vic.gov.au Michael Mobbs, 1998 Sustainable House, Choice Books Green Plumbers Association www.greenplumbers.com.au/ Rainwater 2007 Consumer Guide Water wise products and rebate information www.savewater.com.au

Greywater Regulations of domestic greywater : www.epa.vic.gov.au Information regarding the rebates: www.sustainability.vic.gov.au Detergent sodium and phosphorous levels: www.lanfaxlabs.com.au

Sources of Indigenous Plants for Banyule Melbourne Wildlife Sanctuary Nursery http://www.latrobe.edu.au/wildlife/pn.html, Ph: 9479 2871 Victorian Indigenous Nurseries Cooperative (VINC) www.vinc.net.au, Ph: 9482 1710 Bulleen Art and Garden www.baag.com.au, Ph: 9850 5155

Propagating Indigenous Plants Society for growing Australian Plants Maroondah, 2001, Flora of Melbourne Murray Ralph, 1997, Growing Australian Native Plants from Seed Indigenous Flora and Fauna Association http://home.vicnet.net.au/~iffa Sustainable Gardening Australia www.sgaonline.org.au

Further Information

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Vegetable Growing Clive Blazey, (1999) The Australian Vegetable Garden: What’s New is Old. Clilve Blazey, (2006) Jane Varkulevicius The Australian Fruit and Vegetable Garden The Diggers Club www.diggers.com.au Jackie French, www.jackiefrench.com New Gippsland seed farm, www.newgipps.com.au Eden Seeds, www.edenseeds.com.au

Frog ponds Melbourne Wildlife Sanctuary Nursery Ph: 9479 2871 www.latrobe.edu.au/wildlife Amphibian Research Centre http://frogs.org.au/ Ph: 9742 3764

Living with Wildlife Department of Sustainability & Environment www.dse.vic.gov.au Ph:136 186 Flora for fauna www.floraforfauna.com.au Nest Boxes from Melbourne Wildlife Sanctuary, http://www.latrobe.edu.au/wildlife/nboxes.html, Ph 9479: 2871 Wildlife Victoria www.wildlifevictoria.org.au, Ph: 13 000 94535 Help for Wildlife www.helpforwildlife.com 24hr emergency Mobile: 0417 380 687

Waterways Darebin Creek Froggers http://www.dcmc.org.au/management/frogs.php WaterWatch www.vic.waterwatch.org.au

Weeds Weeds in Australia www.weeds.gov.au Weedbusters www.weedbusters.info Dept. of Primary Industries www.dpi.vic.gov.au Richardson, 2006 Weeds of the South-East

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