Costuming

THE CROWN

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Sunday News Journal ❚ SUNDAY, APRIL 7, 2019 ❚ 1B

SundayLife

A coat that wouldn’t stay properly dyed. A fat suit that had to be defatted as the

show went on. A ceremonial robe so heavy a mannequin had to be reinforced to

support it for nine months. ❚ Sewn into the taffeta, silk and period details of the

costumes from “The Crown” now on display at Winterthur Museum, Garden and

Library are colorful behind-the-scenes stories from the hit Netflix series. ❚ “Cos-

tuming The Crown,” the new exhibit at Winterthur looks at how costume designers

help create the realism in a show that chronicles the early years of Queen Eliza-

beth’s life, from her marriage into middle age.

Winterthur Museum’s “Costuming The Crown” exhibit includes faithful

reproductions of famous gowns and clothes designed to help create

the characters of “The Crown.”JENNIFER CORBETT/THE NEWS JOURNAL

Betsy Price Delaware News Journal | USA TODAY NETWORK

See CROWN, Page 5B

Philly’s big Labor Day bash, Made inAmerica, is back for more.

The two-day music festival, curatedby Jay-Z, is set for Aug. 31 and Sept. 1,with Travis Scott and Cardi B headlin-ing.

Also on the bill are: Juice Wrld, JamesBlake, Kaskade, Anderson Paak & theFree Nationals, Kodak Black, Bazzi, Jor-ja Smith, Blueface and more.

Made in America is celebrating itseighth year providing the soundtrack forPhilly’s Labor Day weekend.

“A primary goal of Made in America is

to have a positive impact the communi-ties involved,” said promoters Roc Na-tion in a statement announcing the line-up.

“Since the inaugural two-day concert

in 2012, the event has generated $102.8million in economic impact for the city.”

This year’s festival will benefit theACLU of Pennsylvania and The RE-FORM Alliance.

Additional artists include Blueface,Pink Sweat$, Jacob Banks, KAYTRANA-DA, Grace Carter, Kayzo, Tierra Whack,Roddy Ricch, Freddie Gibbs & Madlib,Hippie Sabotage, SG Lewis (in a DJ set),MadeinTYO, DaBaby, Amber Mark,Megan Thee Stallion, KASAI, ChannelTres, elephante, Phantoms, Set Mo, 99Neighbors, Calboy, according to pro-moters.

American Express card holders canbuy tickets today through Thursday at10 p.m.

Tickets for the remainder of the pub-lic go on sale Friday at 10 a.m. atTicketmaster.com

Made in America will also be livestreamed on TIDAL.com/MIA

Subscribers to the TIDAL musicstreaming service will get VIP benefitsat Made in America including “fast trackentrance, TIDAL lounge access with airconditioning, seating and free phonecharging, an artist meet and greets,ticket upgrades, limited-edition mer-chandise and premium views of themain stage on the TIDAL VIP riser,” ac-cording to the press announcement.

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Cardi B and Travis Scott to headline Made in America From Staff ReportsCherry Hill Courier-PostUSA TODAY NETWORK – NEW JERSEY

Cardi B SCOTT ROTH/INVISION/AP

Delaware exhibit features outfits from hit Netflix series

A crown on display at Winterthur.

What’s in it?

The 40 outfits in the show are culledfrom the first and second seasons. Mi-chele Clapton, who designed the firstseason, and Jane Petrie, who designedthe second, were in Delaware this week-end to see the exhibit and talk to report-ers.

“It was like seeing old friends,” Clap-ton said. Both won a mantel full ofawards for their work. Some of Clap-ton’s work was lost after her seasonfilmed, but by the second season, pro-ducers knew they had a hit on theirhands and hung onto Petrie’s costumes.

Here are nine stories behind the bestpieces.

No. 1: The gold robe

Told in four sections, the exhibitopens with “Establishing Roles,” devot-ed to the luxurious outfits that Elizabethand Philip wore to her coronation. Herwhite gown is covered with an embroi-dered gold robe. His robe is a bright-redvelvet with a white-and-black fur man-tle. Replicas of their crowns are nearby.

But under that gold robe is a scaffold-ing built to hold everything up becausethe mannequin couldn’t do it alone, saidLinda Eaton, Winterthur’s director ofcollections and senior curator of tex-tiles.

“Being queen is an endurance test,”said Winterthur estate historian JeffGrof. “And the crown is heavy, too.”

No. 2: The wedding dresses

Clapton says the wedding dresses ofPrincess Margaret and Princess Eliza-beth perfectly illustrate how the worldwas changing outside the palace – andhow the designer used clothes to illus-trate that.

Seen in the exhibit’s second section,“Dressing the Part,” Elizabeth’s gown isa traditional ballroom cut covered inheavy beading. Margaret’s is sleek,spare and modern (think Meghan Mar-kle marrying Prince Harry).

The clothes in “Dressing the Part” arefaithful copies of actual gowns, al-though Margaret’s had to be altered toaccommodate actress Vanessa Kirby,who was 7 inches taller than the 5-footprincess. Actress Claire Foy was close tothe height and size of Elizabeth.

Throughout the show, Margaret’sclothing contrasts with Elizabeth’s,hinting at changing fashions and behav-iors.

No. 3: The duke’s suit, duchess’ dress

Grof says his favorite piece is the1930s windowpane suit worn by theDuke of Windsor. Eaton says hers is thepeach dress paired with it, worn by theDuchess of Windsor character.

Grof likes the suit partly because it il-lustrates the fashion from the time peri-od in which Winterthur became the sto-ried country estate that Henry Francisdu Pont wanted it to be.

Eaton likes the cut, shape and colorof the dress, which Clapton says was in-spired by the sleek style of Italian de-signer Elsa Schiaparelli. It was worn inthe show with a black jacket and broach,but Eaton said it didn’t look right on themannequin, so they left it off.

No 4: Margaret’s motorcycle coat

When Petrie chose a brown-and-or-ange mohair fabric for a coat forPrincess Margaret in season two, shedidn’t realize she’d need to create an-other coat for a stand-in.

The two coats, which are is seen inthe exhibit’s third section, “CreatingCharacter,” were worn while the actressand her stand-in filmed a motorcycleride by Margaret and husband AntonyArmstrong-Jones.

The material had sold out by the timePetrie realized she needed more, so sheordered a similar pattern for the stand-

in, and her staff dyed it to look like theoriginal. It came back from the firstnight of shooting looking like it had be-fore it was dyed. So the staff redyed it,only to have it happen every night ofshooting as the dye soaked into the ma-terial.

No. 5: King George’s uniform

“The Crown” employed a military at-tire expert to make sure the men’s uni-forms were precise.

King George’s uniform, worn coveredin ribbons, medals and more, is an ex-ample why.

The connection between the royalfamily and the military is so strong thatBritish viewers often know what is rightand what isn’t. Some of the medals canbe worn onlyat certain times or cere-monies, the designers and curatorssaid.

No. 6: Churchill’s tux and fat suit

Right next to the dinner tuxedo thatJohn Lithgow wore as Winston Chur-chill is the fat suit he wore to appear aswell-rounded as the prime minister.Adding to the fun of costuming Lithgowwas the little detail that he is a slim 6-foot-4 and Churchill was 5-foot-6.

Clapton’s fat suit for Lithgow includ-ed an open hole in the genital region fornecessary activities. On the Winterthurmannequin, though, that hole was sodistracting, the curators covered it witha fig leaf made of matching material.

Allie Elwell of “The Crown” produc-tion company Left Bank Pictures saidshe texted Lithgow a photo of the suit inthe exhibit, and he thought it was hilari-ous.

As “The Crown” season wore on,Lithgow contorted himself more andmore to create the character of Churchilland the fat suit had to be defatted, or it

looked funny in the filming, Elwell said.

No. 7: The Queen’s floral dress

For a scene in which Philip and thequeen are arguing, Clapton designed alarge strong floral material and madeElizabeth a fit-and-flare dress thatwould be welcome in today’s closets.

The large print and strong colors aredesigned to underscore the queen’sstrength and determination, the design-ers said.

No. 8: Your pick of the bling

The coronation crowns. The weddingcrowns. Tiaras left and right. And thenup and down. For all the jewels worn byQueen Mary, and for Queen Mary, Eatonsaid, more was more.

Eaton says that the television showwas able to borrow some of the officialreproductions of the crown jewels to usein the show.

The exhibit is careful to tell visitorsthat all the bling in the exhibit is a repro-duction.

No. 9: The queen and Jackie Kennedy

The show chronicles the visit ofPresident John and Jackie Kennedy toBritain in 1961 and includes a discussionof what the queen will wear. Jackie wasalready known for her chic style, and thequeen already was feeling irrelevantand out of fashion.

The show re-creates the queen’sfrothy tiered tulle gown but adds a newcapelike back to Jackie’s sleek blue silkChez Ninon gown. Eaton says the serieswanted to add interest to the simplegown as the queen shows Jackie aroundBuckingham Palace.

Contact Betsy Price at 302-324-2884or beprice@delawareonline.com.

Why this show is atWinterthur?The topic doesn’t seem at first blush tobe a natural fit for H.F. du Pont’s Win-terthur Museum, Garden and Library,which celebrates early American an-tiques and design. The estate’s 2014exhibit about the clothes of “DowntownAbbey” dovetailed the story of thefictional British country house withWinterthur’s history as a real Americanone.

Yet, Winterthur Carol Cadou said Fridaythat the museum realizes that cos-tumes, textiles and crafts often in-troduce people to history and art. Andnot only does Winterthur focus on theconservation of textiles, it also teachesa master’s level program with the Uni-versity of Delaware in materials conser-vation.

That history of conservation will alsoinform Winterthur’s choice of futureexhibitions. One is expected to focus onErica Wilson, whose needlework ishailed as genius. Another will look atAnn Lowe, an African American clothingdesigner who made Jackie Kennedy’sgown when she married John F. Kenne-dy.

The exhibit — the first big show of “TheCrown” costumes — came about afterWinterthur borrowed the series’ coro-nation gown for a one-off exhibit dur-ing the 2017 holiday season. WhenWinterthur curators approached Mi-chele Clapton, who was so pleased withhow the estate handled the gown,about a bigger exhibit, she helped getit going.

If you goWHAT: Winterthur Museum’s “Costum-ing The Crown”

WHERE: Winterthur Museum, Garden &Library, 5105 Kennett Pike

WHEN: March 30-Jan 5, 2020; 10 a.m.to 5 p.m. Tuesday-Sunday

TICKETS: $20 adults; $18 for studentsand seniors; $6 for ages 2-11. Prices riseslightly the week of Thanksgiving untilJan. 5.

FOR MORE INFO: Call (302) 888-4600or go to winterthur.org.

An African crown and a naval uniform worn by Matt Smith as Prince Philip. Prince Philip’s red velvet robe topped with a white and black fur mantel.

The reproduction of Queen Elizabeth’s gold coronation robe welcomes guests to “Costuming The Crown,” WinterthurMuseum’s new exhibit featuring clothes from the hit Netflix show. PHOTOS BY JENNIFER CORBETT/THE NEWS JOURNAL

CrownContinued from Page 1B

The wedding dresses of Princess Margaret, left, and Princess Elizabeth, right, areamong the 40 costumes from the Emmy award-winning Netflix series, “TheCrown” now on exhibit at Winterthur.

DELAWAREONLINE.COM ❚ SUNDAY, APRIL 7, 2019 ❚ 5B

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