STITCH ANATOMY BRIOCHE...As with all articles in the Stitch Anatomy Series, this lesson discusses...

As with all articles in the Stitch Anatomy Series, this lesson discusses the stitch pattern in detail, potential problems in working with it, and tips for improving the appearance. For those interested, the included patterns outline the steps involved in designing with the stitch pattern.

BackgroundBrioche knitting is magical and unlike any other type of knitting. While it takes more time and uses more yarn than common knitting techniques, it produces a lofty, cushy, stretchy, thick, yet fairly drapey fabric. Like Double Knitting, it creates a double layer of fabric although Brioche is based on the idea of concurrently slipping a stitch and creating a yarn over on one row, then working that slipped stitch together with its associated yarn over on the next row. Brioche allows for complex colorwork while requiring only one color to be worked per row.

Brioche is usually worked as a rib that produces reversible fabric. However, it can also be worked in a Stockinette-based fabric as well as fabrics called Double Brioche and Syncopated Brioche. Brioche can be worked flat or in the

round. Cables, traveling stitches, and even lace are all possibilities. Because all brioche fabrics are double layered, they are especially warm as well as intriguing to knit: rhythmic with just enough going on to keep it interesting.

Other NamesBrioche knitting has many alternate names. Depending on the source, it is also called Fisherman’s Rib, Knit One Below, Shaker Knitting, Shaker Rib, English Elastic Stitch, English Rib, and Full Patent Stitch. Some sources use the same or similar names for non-brioche stitch patterns so it is important to look at the actual pattern. Always make a test swatch before committing to a stitch pattern for a project.

Basic Structure and StitchesBrioche knitting is worked over an even number of stitches, in pairs similar to k1p1 rib. The most common form of Brioche should more aptly be named Brioche Rib since it forms protruding columns of stitches that resemble the Vs of knit stitches between columns of recessed purl-like stitches. However, unlike most ribbed stitch patterns, brioche knitting requires two passes, a right side (RS) and wrong side (WS), to complete a single row.

There are two ways to form a brioche stitch: working in the row below or creating a yarn over while slipping a stitch.

• Knit One Below Method: Working in the row below creates the same stitch structure as the more traditional yarn over method but since a whole stitch is opened up rather than just adding a yarn over, the fabric tends to be looser when worked with the same yarn on the same sized needles.• Yarn Over Method: The yarn over method allows for far greater flexibility in shaping

and stitch patterns than the Knit One Below method. Additionally, it is easier to work traditional yarn over Brioche in dim light or with dark yarns since there is no hunting to find the right stitch in the row below.

Each method does, however, produce the same basic fabric although gauge may be different between the two. While this article focuses on the traditional Yarn Over Method, in order to create a nice brioche fabric using either method, a much smaller needle is required than for other forms of knitting. Brioche fabric is inherently loose so be prepared to go down at least a needle size or two from what you might expect.

The basic stitches used in all brioche knitting are the Brioche Knit, the Brioche Purl, and the Slip 1 Yarn Over. The Brioche Knit stitch is abbreviated "brk" where "br" stands for "brioche" and "k" is the standard "knit" – and is often pronounced "bark".

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BRIOCHEBY TRUDIANNE TEMPLE

STITCH ANATOMY

SHALLOW END (BACK): Brioche Rib

DEEP END (BACK):Syncopated Brioche

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http://www.tkga.com/default.asp?

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The brk consists of knitting a previously slipped stitch together with its "shawl", the yarn over created on the previous row when making a Slip 1 Yarn Over, abbreviated "sl1yo". The Brioche Purl (abbreviated "brp" and often pronounced "burp") is the same as the brk except it is purled. Each brk and brp stitch is flanked by sl1yo’s that each create the two loops required to work a brk or brp stitch in the next row. Keep in mind that "sl1yo" is shorthand for the slipped stitch/yarn over combination, and depending on the knitting style, creating the

yarn over or slipping the stitch may occur first.

• English Style: Bring the working yarn forward between the two needle tips. Carry it over the right needle, forming a yarn over while slipping the next stitch purlwise – and knit or purl the following two loops of a sl1yo from the previous row to form a brk or brp. Repeat across.• Continental Style: Rather than bringing the yarn forward to start, leave the working yarn at the back of the work. Before slipping the next stitch purlwise, simply reach the right needle over the top of and behind the working yarn to create the sl1yo in one move. This can almost

STITCH ANATOMY

ILLUSTRATION 1

SHALLOW END (FRONT)SHALLOW END (FRONT)SHALLOW END (FRONT)

DEEP END (FRONT)DEEP END (FRONT)DEEP END (FRONT)

10 Cast On I November 2014 – January 2015Copyright 2014/2015 The Knitting Guild Association. Cast On content is for readers’ personal use and may not be shared or reproduced without permission from the editors.

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be thought of as scooping the working yarn while slipping the next stitch. Normally stitches are slipped with the working yarn behind the right needle. In the case of the sl1yo, slip the next stitch with the working yarn in front of the right needle to create the yarn over while slipping. (Illustration 1) Once complete, the working yarn remains in the back of the work, ready to brk the next stitch/yarn over loops. Repeat across.

Some sources inaccurately call the brk/brp a k2tog/p2tog. This is misleading because there is no decrease. While Brioche stitches do work two loops on the left needle together, it

is simply working the stitch together with its associated yarn over. Because the yarn over wasn’t counted as a separate stitch on the previous row, no real decrease is made – just as adding the yarn over did not form an increase.

The stitch pattern is written like this:One-Color Brioche Rib (mult 2 sts):Set-Up Row (WS): *Sl1yo, k1; rep from * to end.Row 1 (RS): *Sl1yo, brk; rep from * to end.Row 1 (WS): Rep Row 1 RS.Repeat until desired length; end having worked a WS row.

To begin Brioche, a set-up row bridges the gap

between regular knitting or a cast on edge and Brioche, establishing every other stitch with a yarn over. These combination stitches will become brk or brp stitches in the next row. To make a set-up row, start with the yarn forward. Slip the first stitch purlwise while carrying the working yarn over the needle. Knit the following stitch in the normal manner. *Bring the working yarn forward, slip the next stitch purlwise while carrying the working yarn over the right needle (sl1yo), and knit the following stitch; repeat from * to end.


STITCH ANATOMY

SHALLOW END (ALTERNATE VERSION)SHALLOW END (ALTERNATE VERSION)SHALLOW END (ALTERNATE VERSION)


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From this point forward, there will always be half again as many loops on the needle as there are stitches because every second stitch has with it an associated yarn over.

Selvedge stitches are not necessary but do make seaming easier and prevent having to work sl1yos at the beginning or end of a row. (However, special selvedge stitches are not permissible for the Brioche Swatch in Level 3 of the MHK program.) There are several methods for creating special selvedge edges. The simplest is to knit the first and last stitches of every RS row and slip them purlwise on WS rows.

Unlike regular knitting, this type of selvedge stitch encompasses only one row of knitting rather than two since it takes a RS and a WS row worked to complete one row in Brioche.A more elegant selvedge edge for One-color Brioche is to knit the first stitch and knit through the back loop of the last stitch on every RS row. On WS rows, slip the first stitch purlwise with the yarn in back and slip the last stitch purlwise with the yarn in front. It is written like this:

Row 1 RS: K1, (work stitch pattern to last st), k1tbl. Row 1 WS: Wyib Sl1, (work stitch pattern to last st), wyif sl1.

GaugeMatching pattern gauge in Brioche can be challenging because brioche fabric stretches greatly both in width and length. However, there are some techniques that can help. First, make an extra large swatch: at least 6" x 6". Start with the needle size suggested by the designer. To determine the number of stitches to cast on, multiply 1.5 times the number of stitches in 4" given in the pattern’s gauge information. (This is the same as dividing the number of stitches in 4" by 4, then multiplying by 6 to get the number of stitches for 6"). Add 2 for the edge stitches since the edge stitches will be a significantly different size than the pattern stitches. For instance, if the stitch gauge called for in the pattern is 20 sts/4", cast on (1.5 x 20) + 2 = 32 stitches for your initial swatch. Work in the called for stitch pattern for at least 6"and bind off loosely.

Next, note if and how the pattern calls for the project to be blocked since blocking will radically affect gauge. If the pattern calls for blocking, block the swatch in the manner in which the project will be blocked and allow the swatch to fully dry.

Once the blocked swatch has dried, measure the width of the swatch across the middle, not including the edge stitches, and round to the nearest 1/8" (.125"). Divide the total stitch count minus 2 by the measured width. This gives you the number of stitches per inch. Do not round off the number. Multiply the number of stitches per inch by 4 to get the number of stitches in four inches. Round up or down to the nearest whole number.

If the swatch is not to be blocked, lay it flat being very careful not to stretch it. Measure the width of the swatch across the middle, including the edge stitches, and round to the nearest 1/8" (.125"). The edge stitches will be tightly snuggled against the pattern fabric and trying to avoid including them in measurements will result in stretching the fabric. This distortion will cause more error in the gauge calculations than measuring across the swatch and including the edge stitches. Divide the total stitch count minus 2 by the width and continue as above.

To measure row gauge, the procedure is the same regardless of blocking. Measure the length of the swatch, not including the cast on or bind off edges. Count the number of rows by either counting the protruding Vs in a knit column or the recessed purl bumps in a purl column. Depending on the stitch pattern, one may be easier to see than the other. Divide the number of rows by the length. This gives you the number of rows per inch. Do not round off this number. Then multiply the number of rows per inch by 4 to get the number of rows in four inches. Round the number up or down to the nearest whole number.

Compare your stitch and row gauge to that called for in the pattern. If you are getting fewer stitches than the recommended gauge, try using a smaller needle size. If you are getting more stitches than the recommended gauge, try using a larger needle size. Blocking Blocking is especially important when knitting Brioche since any method used will greatly affect the look, loft, drape, and gauge of the final fabric. The first consideration when blocking is the yarn’s fiber content. The information on the ball band addressing cleaning is a good place to start. The next consideration when blocking Brioche is whether to block at all. Without blocking, the fabric remains extremely lofty, stretchy, and 3-dimensional with the purl columns receding a bit. All edges will be flat; Brioche edges do not naturally curl. Any kind of blocking will alter each of these characteristics; so if the knit article is not likely to need washing, consider not blocking. But if the article will be

STITCH ANATOMY

GAUGE WORKSHEET

Determine Stitch Gauge

Measure the width:1/8 = .125 1/4 = .253/8 = .375 1/2 = .505/8 = .625 3/4 = .757/8 = .875

Count the number of stitches:

Divide the number of stitches by the width. This gives you the number of stitches per inch. Do not round off the number.

Number of stitches per inch:

Multiply the number of stitches per inch by 4 to get the number of stitches in four inches. Round the number up or down.

Number of stitches in four inches:

Determine Row/Round Gauge

Measure the length:1/8 = .125 1/4 = .253/8 = .375 1/2 = .505/8 = .625 3/4 = .757/8 = .875

Count the number of rows or rounds (do not include the cast on or bind off edges):

Divide the number of rows/rounds by the length. This gives you the number of rows/rounds per inch. Do not round off the number.

Number of rows/rounds per inch:

Multiply the number of rows/rounds per inch by 4 to get the number of rows/rounds in four inches. Round the number up or down.

Number of rows/rounds in four inches:

If you are getting fewer stitches than the recommended gauge, try using a smaller needle size.If you are getting more stitches than the recommended gauge, try using a larger needle size.


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cleaned, then blocking is critical and practicing with your gauge swatch is paramount since washing and blocking will drastically affect gauge and fabric characteristics. Since Brioche is best worked in wool or wool/mohair blends, some form of blocking with water is most appropriate, whether with steam or wet blocking. When working in Two-color Brioche Rib or a related multi-color stitch pattern, it may be desirable to give the two colors (two layers) equal visual weight. In this case, wet block and pin to allow the fabric to fully stretch and bring the receding purl columns forward. Keep in mind this will greatly flatten the fabric but will also increase the drape.

Casting On & Binding Off The best method for casting on and binding off for Brioche will depend on how those edges are to be used. The Long Tail Cast On is a good choice for an edge that will be seamed although it must be worked fairly loosely. Brioche stitches are larger, puffier, and looser than regular knitting. The Long Tail Cast On leaves a definite set of loops that are easy to differentiate from the brioche fabric. To increase the elasticity of the Long Tail Cast On, wrap the bottom loops (formed by the thumb in most methods) gently but consistently. Note that it is the cast on loops at the bottom of the needle that restrict the edge’s elasticity, not the stitches left on the needle. If the stitches on the needle are enlarged by, for instance, casting on over two needles, all that happens is the bottom row of stitches will be elongated; the edge will still be horizontally restricted by the bottom wraps. Similarly, if the bind off edge is to be seamed or stitches picked up, a standard Chain Bind Off worked at an appropriate gauge works well. If the cast on edge will remain unaltered, the most common cast on for Brioche is the Italian Cast On, also called Kitchener Rib CO, Invisible CO, Tubular CO, or Alternating CO. Nancy Marchant has a short but clear video entitled "Italian Cast On" showing this method that can be found at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MG-_DWGBK3o. Remember, the Italian Cast On is fairly loose so you may have to go down a needle size or two for the cast on as well as the first row or two to keep the work from splaying. Be sure to cast on with straight needles to help minimize stitches twisting around the needle. The cable of a circular needle lets the cast on row twist or twirl, making it extremely difficult to find the stitches. Switch to a circular needle if necessary

after having worked the Brioche set-up row. To bind off Brioche fabric where the edge will remain unaltered, the Sewn Italian (aka Kitchener, Invisible Weave, or Tubular) Bind Off is best. Nancy Marchant has an excellent video entitled "Italian Bind Off " showing this technique at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NaxisCNjrvY. Both the Italian CO and the Italian BO form finished, invisible edges that blend with Brioche perfectly.

Decreases and IncreasesIn Brioche, both garment shaping and many decorative stitch patterns are created using increases and decreases. While it is certainly possible to make traditional cables and traveling stitches in Brioche, many brioche stitch patterns derive their textures from the use of strategically placed increases and decreases. The key thing to remember is that since brioche knitting is worked in pairs, shaping must also be done in pairs. For instance, a "single" brioche decrease actually reduces the stitch count by two: one sl1yo and one plain stitch. To make a left-leaning decrease, it is essentially the same as a left-leaning double decrease in standard knitting. Work up to the target stitch. It is most often a slipped stitch with its associated yarn over. Slip both the stitch and its associated yarn over together knitwise (changing its orientation), knit the following stitch, transfer the stitch just knit back to the left needle, pass the second stitch on the left needle (it will be a stitch and its associated yarn over) over the first. Then transfer the first stitch back to the right needle purlwise, maintaining its orientation, and pass the second stitch on the right needle over the first.

A right-leaning decrease is done similarly although in a different order. As above, work up to the decrease point. Slip the next stitch knitwise to the right needle and knit the following stitch. In this case, pass the second stitch on the right needle over the first and transfer the remaining stitch to the left needle. Pass the second stitch on the left needle over the first and pass the remaining stitch purlwise to the right needle. I remember which stitch to pass over first this way: the first stitch to get passed over the center knit stitch is the direction of the lean. A right-leaning decrease means the stitch on the right needle gets passed over the knit stitch first. A left-leaning decrease means the stitch on the left needle gets passed over the knit stitch first.

Once this makes sense to you, a simplified method for a left-leaning decrease is worked with the same start; work up to the target stitch with its associated yarn over and slip it knitwise to the right needle. Then knit the next stitch and the following stitch together (like a k2tog but including all 3 loops knit together). Then pass the second stitch on the right needle over the first.

Other decreases can be used. For instance, to make a right-leaning decrease a k3tog can be used. However, in Brioche this requires knitting 5 loops together which can be tricky. It is difficult to insert the right needle tip into 5 loops on the left needle and actually knit them together. While slipping and transferring stitches may seem tedious, it is easier to do and the stitches lay on top of each other in the correct order on both the RS and the WS of the fabric.

Another decrease commonly used in Brioche is the Brioche Central Double Decrease. This decrease tucks two neighboring knit columns under a center knit column by decreasing a total of four stitches; five stitches are manipulated to decrease four away, leaving just the center stitch. To make this decrease, work across until 2 stitches before the stitch that will be the center of the decrease (it will be a stitch with a yarn over). Slip the next two stitches, one at a time (the stitch & yarn over and the plain stitch) knitwise to the right needle. Place the next stitch (the center stitch & yarn over) on a cable needle and hold to the front of the work. Knit the next stitch. Pass the second stitch on the right needle over the first; both will be plain stitches. Transfer the remaining stitch on the right needle to the left needle. Pass the second stitch in the left needle (stitch & yo) over the first and slip purlwise to the right needle. Slip the second stitch in the right needle (stitch & yo) over the first and place the stitch on the holder back on the left needle. Transfer the first stitch from the right needle back to the left and pass the second stitch (central stitch & yo ) over the first. Finally, slip the remaining stitch purlwise to the right needle. Five stitches have become one with the center stitch laying on top.

Compared to decreases, brioche increases are quite straightforward. Brioche increases are non-directional. They don’t lean left or right but produce a fan-like shape from the top of the increased stitch. Just as with decreases, a single brioche increase means that a pair of stitches must be added, not just one stitch. To make a single brioche increase on the RS, [k, yo, k] into the same stitch before lifting the stitch from the left needle to the right.


STITCH ANATOMY

VIDEO LINKS


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https://tkga.site-ym.com/?CastOn_About


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NaxisCNjrvY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NaxisCNjrvY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MG-_DWGBK3o

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MG-_DWGBK3o


A double increase is similar but adds four stitches: [k, yo, k, yo, k] into the same stitch to make five stitches from one and increase two stitch pairs. Increases, like decreases, are rarely worked on the WS.

Important: When a pattern says to increase/decrease every so many rows, it means every so many COMPLETE rows, not actual rows worked. Two rows are worked for each row that shows on the face of the fabric.

Reading Your KnittingEveryone has to put down his or her knitting at some point. It can be challenging to figure out where the work left off and it is particularly difficult to see the pattern for the first few rows in brioche work. Hanging a removable stitch marker from the RS can certainly help. To further analyze where the work ended, start by facing the RS toward you. For One-color Brioche, if the working yarn hangs on the right hand side, a WS row was just completed; a RS row is next. If the yarn hangs on the left, the opposite is true. To figure out exactly which numbered row was just completed, simply count either the number of V-shaped knit stitches or the purl bumps below the needle (Illustration 2). The purl bumps will be recessed and flanked on either side by short diagonals.

When counting rows, remember that two rows are worked for each row that appears on the face of the fabric. At this point, there is no official standard for labeling rows in brioche stitch patterns although designers are slowly adopting Nancy Marchant’s latest system. It can be found in her newest book as well as her Craftsy.com class. Keep this in mind when reading stitch patterns: depending on the designer, row designations won’t necessarily match the actual row count.

In Two-color Brioche, where the two working yarns hang indicates what comes next. If the two yarns hang together, a CC row has just been completed and a MC row is next. Turn the work so both working strands of yarn hang from the right end of the needle. The MC is always worked first. If the MC is the same color as the columns of V-shaped knit stitches, the RS faces. Work the first row (RS MC) of the sequence next. If the V-shaped knit columns are the CC color, the WS faces. Work the third row of the sequence (WS MC) next.

Conversely, if the two working yarns hang from opposite ends of the work, a MC row was just completed; the next row must be a CC color row. If the V-shaped stitches are MC, the RS faces. Work the second row of the sequence, RS CC a brp row. If the color of the V-shaped stitches is the CC, the WS faces. Work the fourth row of the sequence, WS CC - a brk row. Remember that the V-shaped knit stitch columns indicate which yarn will be brk’d on that side.

Another clue is that the yarn overs on the left needle were worked in the most recently used yarn; the other color should be worked next.

Finally, shaping and stitch patterns can also help solve the puzzle. For instance, look for where two knit columns come together; a decrease was created at that point. Just remember that the decrease was worked in the RS row above the decrease action. The evidence of the decrease is in the row below where the decrease was executed.

Starting a New Strand & Weaving in Ends Because it is so easy to invisibly bury ends in Brioche and because of the necessity of making yarn overs at the beginning or end of a row, it is best to start a new ball in the middle of a row. To weave in an end, thread a tapestry needle with the tail and carefully pass it under a column of diagonals flanking the sides of a

purl column. It will be invisible from both sides (Illustration 3).

Alternate Brioche Fabrics Brioche stitch pattern possibilities are endless. To start, any brioche stitch pattern can be worked in one color or multiple colors, each producing fabulously different effects.

• Two-Color Brioche: Two-color Brioche Rib creates reversible vertical stripes while requiring only one color to be used at a time. (Illustration 4) Columns of color appear on each side – the main color (MC) on the front and the contrasting color (CC) on the back. The purl stitches recede but if the fabric is stretched even slightly, stripes clearly appear.

While the actual Brioche stitches are exactly the same as when working One-color Brioche, it’s how the yarn is managed – and in what order the rows are worked – that creates the vertical striping. Rather than working a RS row followed immediately by a WS row as in traditional knitting or One-color Brioche, when working Two-color Brioche two RS rows are worked before two WS rows. To accomplish this, a double pointed or circular needle is required. First, work a RS row with the MC using brk/sl1yo pairs. At the end of the row, slide the stitches back to the other side of the needle and pick up the CC. Work the second RS row with the CC using brp/sl1yo pairs. Turn the work. Pick up the main color and work the first WS row using brp/sl1yo pairs and at the end of the row, slide the stitches back to the other side of the needle. Complete the 4-row sequence by working a WS row with the CC, using brk/sl1yo pairs. In this manner, two rows are completed after having worked the four-row sequence.

Shaping and pattern work are nearly always worked on the first RS row (the first in the sequence, worked in MC), so this is the most likely place a serious mistake will occur. Look over this row after completion and before

STITCH ANATOMY

ILLUSTRATION 3

ILLUSTRATION 4ILLUSTRATION 4

ILLUSTRATION 2

ILLUSTRATION 3

ILLUSTRATION 2


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moving on. Better to have to think only one row rather than multiple rows since ripping or laddering down are not simple options in Brioche. The second row in the sequence, RS CC with brps, re-establishes the Brioche pairs. Both WS rows are standard Brioche Rib rows: Brioche purl (WS MC) or Brioche knit (WS CC) rows.

The "Big Picture" for 2-color Brioche rib is the following four-row sequence:1. Work 1st RS row in brk with MC (work shaping or stitch patterning). Slide stitches.2. Work 2nd RS row in brp with CC (re-establishes the brioche pairs). Turn work.3. Work 1st WS row in brp with MC. Slide sts.4. Work 2nd WS row in brk with CC. Turn.

The stitch pattern can be written like this:Two-Color Brioche Rib (mult 2 sts):Set-Up Row (WS CC): *Sl1yo, k; rep from * to end.Row 1 (RS MC): *Sl1yo, brk; rep from * to end. Slide sts.Row 1 (RS CC): *Brp, sl1yo; rep from * to end. Turn work.Row 2 (WS MC): *Brp, sl1yo; rep from * to end. Slide sts.Row 2 (WS CC): *Sl1yo, brk; rep from * to end. Turn..Repeat until desired length; end having completed WS CC row.

If selvedges are to be worked, the most common method is to slip the selvedge stitches when working in CC and work them with MC. Especially when working special selvedge stitches, it is important to think about on which side to leave the working yarn at the end of a row so it is in the correct position to work the following row. In general, at the end of a row, the MC should hang on the WS and CC should hang on the RS. The reasoning for this is fairly simple: when working RS rows in Two-color Brioche Rib, the MC will be used next to brk (yarn needs to be in the back – or on the WS) and CC will be used next to brp (yarn needs to be in the front, or RS). When working a WS row, MC will be used to brp (yarn needs to be in the front – again, hanging on the WS) and CC will be used to brk (yarn needs to be in the back, again, hanging on the RS).

Additionally, Brioche techniques are not restricted to rib-based patterns. For instance:

• Stockinette Brioche: While Brioche Rib was the basis for this article, Brioche can also be worked in Stockinette fashion with brk rows worked on the RS and brp rows on the WS – using one or multiple colors. Stockinette Brioche stitch in a single color can be written as follows:

Stockinette Brioche Stitch (mult 2 sts):Set-Up Row (WS): *Sl1yo, p1; rep from * to end.Row 1 (RS): *Sl1yo, brk; rep from * to end.Row 1 (WS): *Sl1yo, brp; rep from * to end.Repeat until desired length; end having worked a WS row.

Stockinette Brioche stitch worked in two colors is done in the same manner as Two-Color Brioche Rib except that the RS brps are worked as brks and the WS brks are worked as brps. Remember to slide the stitches after working a MC row so the CC can be picked up and worked next.

To work Three-color Stockinette Brioche, stitches don’t need to be slid. Instead, the first row will be worked with Color A, the second with Color B, and the third with Color C. Thereafter, at the beginning of each new row, pick up the unused color; it is ready and waiting at the beginning of the row. This concept of alternating working yarns can be expanded to any odd number of colors and creates some surprising effects. (Illustrations 5 & 6; Stockinette and Reverse Stockinette Brioche in 1, 2, and 3 colors)

• Syncopated Brioche: Syncopated Brioche in one color creates a reversible broken rib pattern

by switching knit columns to purl columns and vice versa. Because the knit columns protrude and the purl columns recede, when working Syncopated Brioche in two colors the main color will recede where it used to protrude and the contrasting color will protrude where it used to recede.

• Double Brioche: Double Brioche (aka "Honeycomb Stitch", Illustration 7) is a cousin of Brioche Rib and one example of the rare case in which a stitch and its associated yarn over are worked separately rather than together. It produces a honeycomb-like net on a background of Stockinette-like fabric and is a required swatch in Level 3 of the MHK program. The two layers are especially obvious when Double Brioche is worked in two colors; the web layer is all one color and the background layer the other (Illustration 8).

One-color Double Brioche Big Picture:• Both WS rows are worked like Brioche Rib brk rows; brk the stitch with the associated yarn over and sl1yo the plain stitches.


STITCH ANATOMY

ILLUSTRATION 5

ILLUSTRATION 6

ILLUSTRATION 5

ILLUSTRATION 6

ILLUSTRATION 7

ILLUSTRATION 8

ILLUSTRATION 7

ILLUSTRATION 8


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• Both RS rows involve knitting all the stitches and slipping the yarn overs purlwise with the yarn held in the back.• The right side shows the webbing.• The wrong side shows a Reverse Stockinette type fabric. • Where the stitch + yarn over combination stitch lies in the stitch sequence indicates which row is next.One-Color Double Brioche (mult 2 sts):Set-Up Row (WS): *Sl1yo, k1; rep from * to end.Row 1 (RS): *K1, k1 from under yo, sl yo pwise; rep from * to end.Row 1 (WS): *Brk, sl1yo; rep from * to end.Row 2 (RS): *K1 from under yo, sl yo pwise, k1; rep from * to end.Row 2 (WS): *Sl1yo, brk; rep from * to end.Repeat Rows 1-2 (working both RS and WS of each) until desired length; end having worked a WS row.

Two-Color Double Brioche Big Picture:• MC creates the mesh via yarn overs; CC creates the background fabric and is not used for making any yarn overs.• MC works all of the Brioche-style rows. They are worked like Brioche Rib. RS rows are brp rows, WS rows are brk rows.• CC works the Stockinette-type rows to create the background fabric. The yarn overs are each slipped purlwise with the working yarn on the WS. Knit on the RS and purl on the WS.• When working CC rows, the two loops making up a stitch with an associated yarn over are worked separately. On RS rows (knit rows), the stitch is worked before the yarn over and is knit from under the yarn over. On WS rows (purl rows), the yarn over is worked before the stitch and is lifted over the stitch. Then purl the stitch.

Two-color Double Brioche (mult 2 sts):Set-Up Row (WS MC): *Sl1yo, k1; rep from * to end. Slide sts.Set-Up Row (WS CC): *Sl the yo pwise, p2; rep from * to end. Turn work.Row 1 (RS MC): *Sl1yo, brp; rep from * to end. Slide sts.Row 1 (RS CC): *K1 from under yo, slip yo pwise, k1; rep from * to end. Turn work.Row 2 (WS MC): *Sl1yo, brk; rep from * to end. Slide sts.Row 2 (WS CC): *Sl yo pwise, p2; rep from * to end. Turn work.Repeat 4-row sequence until desired length; end having completed CC row.

Brioche requires much practice before it becomes innate but it is well worth the effort. By working both of the following pillow patterns,

you will develop a strong working knowledge of both basic and advanced brioche techniques.

DESIGNER NOTE: Project Yarn Requirement: Only one skein of each color is required to make both patterns associated with this article.

For more information on choosing appropriate yarn, working in the round and fixing mistakes, go to the On-Line Extras for this article.

Resources:Buss, Katharina. Big Book of Knitting. New York: Sterling Publishing Co., Inc., 2001.Forte, Mary. "Stitch Anatomy: Brioche Lesson." Cast On Feb-Apr 2011: pp. 9-14.Dovekot, Elise. Knit One Below. Sioux Falls: XRX Inc, 2008.Hiatt, June Hemmons. The Principles of Knitting. New York: Simon and Schuster, 2012.Marchant, Nancy. "Explorations in Brioche Knitting." Craftsy.com. http://www.crafsty.comMarchant, Nancy. Knitting Brioche: The Essential Guide to the Brioche Stitch. Georgetown: Fraser Direct, 2009.Marchant, Nancy. Knitting Fresh Brioche: Creating Two-Color Twists & Turns. New York: Sixth & Spring Books, 2014.Marchant, Nancy. "The Brioche Stitch." http://www.briochestitch.comStanley, Montse. Reader’s Digest Knitter’s Handbook. Pleasantville, NY: The Reader’s Digest Association, 2001.Tarasovich-Clark, Mercedes. "Brioche Knitting Basics." 2011 [DVD] USA: Interweave Press.Tarasovich-Clark, Mercedes. "Made Easy." Craftsy.com. http://www.crafsty.comWalker, Barbara. A Treasury of Knitting Patterns. Pittsville: Schoolhouse Press, 1998.

SHALLOW END: 2-COLOR BRIOCHE ACCENT PILLOW • BY TRUDIANNE TEMPLE

Intended to introduce Brioche, this pillow incorporates Brioche Rib using one and two colors as well as basic increases and decreases.

Finished Measurements:11" x 11" Unstretched

Materials: Blue Moon Fiber Arts BILLY THE KID (8oz/226g, 485yds/443m, 50% Kid Mohair, 50% Fine Wool Blend): 1 skein each color Farmhouse(MC) and The Winter Blues (CC) Size 5 (3.75mm) 24"(60.96cm) circular needles

or size needed to obtain correct gaugeTapestry needleStitch markers12" x 12" pillow formGauge:In Brioche Rib Stitch unstretched, 20 sts & 27 rows = 4"/10cm. To save time, take time to check gauge.

DESIGNER NOTE – Gauge: To measure gauge, make a generously sized gauge swatch – at least 6" x 6". When measuring, do not stretch. Count each column of stitches, not including the selvedges. If in doubt, go tighter rather than looser. Brioche fabric stretches greatly in both length and width. To take advantage of this, the pillow cover is designed to be smaller than the pillow form and stretched to fit.

Abbreviations:Brk = brioche knit (knit st and associated yo together as one)Brp = brioche purl (purl st and associated yo together as one)Inc = single brioche increase ([k, yo, k] all into one st)LD = left slanting brioche decrease (Slip next st knitwise to RN, k2tog. Pass second st on RN over first.)Pwise = purlwiseRD = right slanting brioche decrease (Slip next st knitwise to RN, k following st. Pass second st on RN over first; transfer the rem st to LN. Pass second st on LN over first and slip the rem st purlwise to RN.)

DESIGNER NOTE – Fabric Considerations: Because Brioche stitches tend to be on the loose side, these pillow covers are worked on needles that are smaller than might be appropriate for other garments to create a denser fabric. Also, because Brioche fabric stretches greatly both in length and width, the covers are made slightly smaller than the pillow form.

DESIGNER NOTE – Selvedge Edges: This pattern includes specially worked selvedge edges for ease of seaming. Remember that when working swatches for the Master Hand Knitting program, no special selvedge treatments should be used.

Pillow Cover Back:Using MC and standard Long-tail Cast On, CO 54 sts. Work One-Color Brioche Rib for 74 rows (approx 11").

One-Color Brioche Rib (mult 2 sts):Set-Up Row (WS): P1, *sl1yo, k1; rep from * to last st, p1.Row 1 (RS): K1, *Sl1yo, brk; rep from * to last st, k1.Row 1 (WS): Sl1, *sl1yo, brk; rep from * last st, wyif sl1.

STITCH ANATOMY


BACK TOCONTENTS



Repeat Row 1 (RS) and Row 1 (WS) until desired length; end having worked a WS row.

TECHNICAL TIP: After slipping the first stitch of each WS row, hold the slipped stitch in place with your right thumb to keep it from rotating while executing the next sl1yo.

K first and last sts of every RS row and wyif, sl them on WS rows; work in One-Color Brioche Rib Stitch over center 52 sts for 74 complete rows (approx 11").

Pillow Cover Front:Begin working in two colors. Work 3 reps of Shallow End pattern, then work Set up Row 1 once more (RS MC, RS CC, WS MC, and WS CC).

TECHNICAL TIP: At the ends of rows, it is common for stitches and their associated yarn overs to separate. Keep this in mind before assuming you’ve made a mistake and ripping back. Also, when starting a row with a slipped stitch followed by a sl1yo, hold the first slipped stitch in place when working the second stitch to prevent it from rotating around the right needle and shortening the yarn over. While the CC yarn should be on the WS to start the WS rows, bringing it forward to the RS at the end of the previous row locks the preceding yarn over in place.

After turning the work at the end of WS MC rows and slipping the first stitch of the next WS CC row with the yarn in the back, move the working yarn forward to make the first WS CC sl1yo in the normal manner.

Shallow End (mult 52 + 2 selv sts):Row 1 (RS MC): K1, *sl1yo, brk; rep from * to last st, k1. Slide sts.Row 1 (RS CC): Wyif sl1, *brp, sl1yo; rep from * to last st, wyif sl1.Row 2 and all WS MC rows: P1, *brp, sl1yo; rep from * to last st, p1. Slide sts.Row 2 and all WS CC rows: Wyib sl1, *sl1yo, brk; rep from * to last st, wyib sl1.Row 3 (RS MC): K1, sl1yo, [inc, sl1yo, LD, sl1yo] x 3, [brk, sl1yo] x 8, [RD, sl1yo, inc, sl1yo] x 2, RD, sl1yo, inc, k1. Slide sts.Row 3 (RS CC): Wyif sl1, brp, [sl1yo, p, sl1yo, brp, sl1yo, brp] x 3, [sl1yo, brp] x 7, sl1yo, [brp, sl1yo, brp, sl1yo, p, sl1yo] x 3, wyif sl1.Row 5 (RS MC): K1, sl1yo, brk, sl1yo, [inc, sl1yo, LD, sl1yo] x 3, [brk, sl1yo] x 6, [RD, sl1yo, inc, sl1yo] x 3, brk, k1. Slide sts.Row 5 (RS CC): Wyif sl1, brp, sl1yo, brp, [sl1yo, p, sl1yo, brp, sl1yo, brp] x 3, [sl1yo, brp] x 5, sl1yo, [brp, sl1yo, brp, sl1yo, p, sl1yo] x 3, brp, sl1yo, wyif sl1.Row 7 (RS MC): K1, sl1yo, [brk, sl1yo] x 2, [inc, sl1yo, LD, sl1yo] x 3, [brk, sl1yo] x 4, [RD, sl1yo, inc, sl1yo] x 3, brk, sl1yo, brk, k1. Slide

sts.Row 7 (RS CC): Wyif sl1, brp, [sl1yo, brp] x 2, [sl1yo, p, sl1yo, brp, sl1yo, brp] x 3, [sl1yo, brp] x 3, sl1yo, [brp, sl1yo, brp, sl1yo, p, sl1yo] x 3, [brp, sl1yo] x 2, wyif sl1.Row 9 (RS MC): K1, sl1yo, [brk, sl1yo] x 3, [inc, sl1yo, LD, sl1yo] x 3, [brk, sl1yo] x 2, [RD, sl1yo, inc, sl1yo] x 3, [brk, sl1yo] x 2, brk, k1. Slide sts.Row 9 (RS CC): Wyif sl1, brp, [sl1yo, brp] x 3, [sl1yo, p, sl1yo, brp, sl1yo, brp] x 3, sl1yo, brp, sl1yo, [brp, sl1yo, brp, sl1yo, p, sl1yo] x 3, [brp, sl1yo] x 3, wyif sl1.Row 11 (RS MC): K1, sl1yo, [brk, sl1yo] x 4, [inc, sl1yo, LD, sl1yo] x 3, [RD, sl1yo, inc, sl1yo] x 3, [brk, sl1yo] x 3, brk, k1. Slide sts.Row 11 (RS CC): Wyif sl1, brp, [sl1yo, brp] x 4, [sl1yo, p, sl1yo, brp, sl1yo, brp] x 3, sl1yo,brp, [sl1yo, p, sl1yo, brp, sl1yo, brp] x 3, [sl1yo, brp] x 2, sl1yo, wyif sl1.Row 13 (RS MC): Rep Row 1 (RS MC).Row 13 (RS CC): Rep Row 1 (RS CC).Row 15 (RS MC): K1, [sl1yo, brk] x 4, [sl1yo, RD, sl1yo, inc] x 3, [sl1yo, inc, sl1yo, LD] x 3, [sl1yo, brk] x 4, k1. Slide sts.Row 15 (RS CC): Wyif sl1, [brp, sl1yo] x 4, [brp, sl1yo, brp, sl1yo, p, sl1yo] x 3, brp, [sl1yo, p, sl1yo, brp, sl1yo, brp] x 3, [sl1yo, brp] x 3, sl1yo, wyif sl1. Row 17 (RS MC): K1, [sl1yo, brk] x 3, [sl1yo, RD, sl1yo, inc] x 3, [sl1yo, brk] x 2, [sl1yo, inc, sl1yo, LD] x 3, [sl1yo, brk] x 3, k1. Slide sts.Row 17 (RS CC): Wyif sl1, [brp, sl1yo] x 3, [brp, sl1yo, brp, sl1yo, p, sl1yo] x 3, [brp, sl1yo] x 2, brp, [sl1yo, p, sl1yo, brp, sl1yo, brp] x 3, [sl1yo, brp] x 2, sl1yo, wyif sl1.Row 19 (RS MC): K1, [sl1yo, brk] x 2, [sl1yo, RD, sl1yo, inc] x 3, [sl1yo, brk] x 4, [sl1yo, inc, sl1yo, LD] x 3, [sl1yo, brk] x 2, k1. Slide sts.Row 19 (RS CC): Wyif sl1, [brp, sl1yo] x 2, [brp, sl1yo, brp, sl1yo, p, sl1yo] x 3, [brp, sl1yo] x 4, brp, [sl1yo, p, sl1yo, brp, sl1yo, brp] x 3, sl1yo, brp, sl1yo, wyif sl1.Row 21 (RS MC): K1, sl1yo, brk, [sl1yo, RD, sl1yo, inc] x 3, [sl1yo, brk] x 6, [sl1yo, inc, sl1yo, LD] x 3, sl1yo, brk, k1. Slide sts.Row 21 (RS CC): Wyif sl1, brp, sl1yo, [brp, sl1yo, brp, sl1yo, p, sl1yo] x 3, [brp, sl1yo] x 6, brp, [sl1yo, p, sl1yo, brp, sl1yo, brp] x 3, sl1yo, wyif sl1.Row 23 (RS MC): K1, [sl1yo, RD, sl1yo, inc] x 3, [sl1yo, brk] x 8, [sl1yo, inc, sl1yo, LD] x 3, k1. Slide sts.Row 23 (RS CC): Wyif sl1, [brp, sl1yo, brp, sl1yo, p, sl1yo] x 3, [brp, sl1yo] x 8, brp, [sl1yo, p, sl1yo, brp, sl1yo, BRP] x 2, sl1yo, p, sl1yo, brp, sl1yo, wyif sl1.End having completed Row 24 (WS CC).

Bind Off loosely using standard Chain Bind Off; k knit columns and p purl columns, working the two loops of any sl1yo’s together as one. Weave in ends.

After deciding which side you prefer for the public side, fold at midpoint and place inside sides together. Use Mattress Stitch to carefully seam sides. Insert pillow form. Seam bind off row to cast on row.

TECHNICAL TIP: Practice seaming Brioche on your gauge swatch before seaming the pillow cover.

DESIGNER NOTE – Blocking: Blocking is not necessary for this project.

Easy pattern alterations: The simplest alternative is, of course, to reverse the MC and CC. Also, consider swapping the public and private sides before seaming. The RS and WS are very nearly identical and with the variegated yarn, you may prefer one over the other. Finally, if delving right into increases and decreases with two-color brioche is frustrating, substitute 24 complete (48 worked) rows of Two-Color Brioche Rib for the first and last repeats of the pattern to get used to the rhythm of working Brioche in two colors before adding shaping/patterning.

DEEP END: 2-COLOR BRIOCHE THROW PILLOWBY TRUDIANNE TEMPLE

Designed to challenge, this pillow incorporates Syncopated Brioche as well as Double Brioche in one and two colors.

Finished Knitted Measurements:15.5" x 15.0" Unstretched

Materials: Blue Moon Fiber Arts BILLY THE KID (8oz/ 226g, 485yds/443m, 50% Kid Mohair, 50% Fine Wool Blend): 1 skein each Color MC (The Winter Blues) and Color CC (Farmhouse) US Size 5 (3.75mm) 24" (60.96cm) circular needles or size to obtain gaugeTapestry needleStitch markers16" x 16" (41cm x 41cm) pillow form

Gauge:In One Color 8-Row Syncopated Brioche Stitch, 20 sts & 29 rows = 4"/10cm. To save time, take time to check gauge.


STITCH ANATOMY


17BACK TOCONTENTS



Abbreviations:Brk = brioche knit (knit st and associated yo together as one)Brp = brioche purl (purl st and associated yo together as one)Pwise = purlwise

Stitch Patterns:One-Color 8-Row Syncopated Brioche Stitch (mult 2 sts):Set-Up Row (RS): K1, *sl1yo, k1; rep from * to last st, k1.Set-up Row (WS): P1, *sl1yo, brk; rep from * to last st, p1.Row 1 (RS): K1, *sl1yo, brk; rep from * to last st, k1.Row 1 (WS): Rep Set-up Row (WS).Rows 2-4: Rep Row 1 (RS) and Row 1 (WS) for each row 2-4.Row 5 (RS): K1, *sl1yo, brp; rep from * to last st, k1.Row 5 (WS): P1, *sl1yo, brp; rep from * to last st, p1.Rows 6-8: Rep Row 5 (RS) and Row 5 (WS) for each row 6-8.Rep Rows 1-8 (working both RS and WS of each) until desired length; end having completed a WS row.

One-Color Double Brioche (mult 2 sts):Row 1 (RS): K1, *k1, k1 from under yo, slip yo pwise; rep from * to last st, k1.Row 1 (WS): P1, *brk, sl1yo; rep from * to last st, p1.Row 2 (RS): K1, *k1 from under yo, slip yo pwise, k1; rep from * to last st, k1.Row 2 (WS): P1, *Sl1yo, brk; rep from * to last st, p1.Repeat Rows 1-2 (working both RS and WS of each) until desired length; end having completed a WS row.

Two-color Double Brioche (mult 2 sts):Row 1 (RS MC): K1, *sl1yo, brp; rep from * to one st before end, k1. Slide sts.Row 1 (RS CC): K1 *k1 from under yo, slip yo purlwise, k1; rep from * to last st, k1. Turn work.Row 2 (WS MC): P1, *sl1yo, brk; rep from * to last st, p1. Slide sts.Row 2 (WS CC): P1, *slip yo purlwise, p2; rep from * to last st, p1. Turn work.Repeat 4-row sequence until desired length; end having completed a CC row.

Pillow Cover Back:Using Color MC and standard Long-tail Cast On, CO 78 sts work in One-Color 8-Row Syncopated Brioche Stitch for approx 15"; end having just completed either Row 4 or Row 8 (WS).

Pillow Cover Front:Begin working in One-Color Double Brioche Stitch and cont to work for 3"; end having completed Row 2 (RS) row.Add second color. Exchange MC and CC; what was used as the MC will be the CC for this section. With the new color and starting with the last row in the 4-row stitch pattern sequence, work in Two-Color Double Brioche stitch for 19 rows (approx 3"); end having completed a CC row.

TECHNICAL TIP: To count rows in Double Brioche, count the Vs that make the mesh on the RS. The Vs shift one stitch back and forth each row. Exchange MC and CC. MC is now the original MC. Cont to work in Two-color Double Brioche for 19 rows (approx 3"); end having completed a CC row.

Exchange MC and CC. They should be the same as in the first Two-color Double Brioche

section. Work 19 rows (approx 3"); end having completed Row 1 (RS CC).

DESIGNER NOTE – Stitch Pattern Transition: Two-Color Double Brioche Row 1 (RS CC) is identical to One-Color Double Brioche Row 2 (RS) making the transition between stitch patterns easy. Cut original CC, leaving a tail long enough to weave in. The color that remains is the same as the pillow back. Starting with Row 2 (WS), work in One-Color Double Brioche Stitch for 3".

Bind Off loosely using standard Chain Bind Off; k sl1yo’s and p plain stitches. Weave in ends. Fold at midpoint and place inside sides together. Use Mattress Stitch to carefully seam sides. Insert pillow form. Seam bind off row to cast on row.

DESIGNER NOTE – Blocking: Blocking is not necessary for this project.

STITCH ANATOMY


BACK TOCONTENTS

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