· Stage 6: Learning the Art of Effective Problem Solving Stage 6: Learning the Art of Effective...

LEARNING THE ART OF EFFECTIVE PROBLEM SOLVING

© Animal Behavior College, Inc. 25104 Rye Canyon Loop Santa Clarita, CA 91355

Phone 800.795.3294

These materials are copywritten and may not be duplicated without the express written permission of ABC.

Stage

6

Stage 6: Learning the Art of Effective Problem Solving

Stage 6: Learning the Art of Effective Problem Solving......................................... 6-3 Goals......................................................................................................................................6-3

Physical and Mental Stimulation ....................................................................................................... 6-5 Problem Solving Basics.......................................................................................................6-4

Medical Issues................................................................................................................................... 6-5

Positive Reinforcement of Alternate Behaviors................................................................................. 6-6 Treatment Plan Components...............................................................................................6-5

Management of the Problem and Setting the Dog up to Succeed.................................................... 6-7 Consequences for the Problem Behaviors........................................................................................ 6-7

Positive Punishment and Negative Reinforcement ....................................................................... 6-8 Consistency in Dealing With Problem Behaviors .............................................................................. 6-9

Jumping.......................................................................................................................................... 6-10 Treatment Plan for Jumping on People....................................................................................... 6-10 Jumping on Guests..................................................................................................................... 6-11 Jumping on Owners.................................................................................................................... 6-18 How to Use the Clicker to Eliminate Jumping as a Greeting Behavior ...................................... 6-23 Jumping When Putting the Leash On......................................................................................... 6-26 Jumping During Playtime............................................................................................................ 6-29

Common Problems Encountered When Modifying Jumping Behavior ....................................... 6-35 Puppy Nipping and Mouthing....................................................................................................... 6-38

Treatment Plan for Resolving Nipping and Mouthing.................................................................. 6-39 Nipping During Petting................................................................................................................ 6-40 Nipping at Clothing ..................................................................................................................... 6-47 Nipping During Greetings ........................................................................................................... 6-51 How to Use the Clicker to Help Eliminate Puppy Nipping.......................................................... 6-54

Common Problems Encountered When Treating Nipping and Mouthing ................................... 6-58 Unruly Behavior in the House ...................................................................................................... 6-61

Treatment Plan for Unruly Behavior in the House....................................................................... 6-61 Common Problems Encountered When Treating Unruly House Behavior ................................. 6-66

Begging .......................................................................................................................................... 6-67 Treatment Plan for Begging......................................................................................................... 6-67 Common Problems Encountered When Treating Begging ......................................................... 6-70

Stealing Food from Counters....................................................................................................... 6-71 Treatment Plan for Food Stealing ............................................................................................... 6-71 Common Problems Encountered When Treating Food Stealing ................................................ 6-74

Jumping on the Furniture............................................................................................................. 6-75 Treatment Plan for Jumping on the Furniture ............................................................................. 6-75 Common Problems Encountered When Teaching a Dog to Stay off the Furniture .................... 6-80

Excessive Barking......................................................................................................................... 6-81 General Guidelines for Treating All Types of Excessive Barking................................................ 6-81 Treatment Plan for Excessive Barking ........................................................................................ 6-83 Excited Play Alert Barking .......................................................................................................... 6-85 Fearful Alarm Barking................................................................................................................. 6-89 Dominance Barking .................................................................................................................... 6-92 Territorial Barking ....................................................................................................................... 6-94 Boredom Barking........................................................................................................................ 6-96

6-1 © Animal Behavior College, Inc.

Resolving Problem Behaviors...........................................................................................6-10


Learned Barking ......................................................................................................................... 6-99 Common Problems Encountered When Treating Excessive Barking....................................... 6-101

Inappropriate Chewing ............................................................................................................... 6-103 Treatment Plan for Inappropriate Chewing ............................................................................... 6-103

Coprophagia (Stool Eating)........................................................................................................ 6-111 Treatment Plan for Coprophagia ............................................................................................... 6-111

Housetraining .............................................................................................................................. 6-116 Treatment Plan for Housetraining ............................................................................................. 6-116 General Housebreaking Guidelines ......................................................................................... 6-117 Treatment Plan Outlines for Common Housetraining Situations ............................................. 6-124

Common Problems Encountered With Housetraining............................................................... 6-139 Answers to Commonly-Asked Housetraining Questions .......................................................... 6-144

Digging ......................................................................................................................................... 6-150 Shaker Can................................................................................................................................ 6-152 Squirt of Water........................................................................................................................... 6-152 Shriek Alarm .............................................................................................................................. 6-152 Boredom Digging...................................................................................................................... 6-154 Digging for Cooling ................................................................................................................... 6-155 Digging to Escape .................................................................................................................... 6-156 Genetic Digging ........................................................................................................................ 6-156 Burying Toys and Bones .......................................................................................................... 6-157 Digging for Hunting................................................................................................................... 6-157 Digging due to Separation Anxiety ........................................................................................... 6-158

Common Problems Encountered with Modifying Digging......................................................... 6-159 Bolting .......................................................................................................................................... 6-161

Common Problems Encountered with Treating Bolting ............................................................ 6-164



Stage 6: Learning the Art of Effective Problem Solving Congratulations! Welcome to Stage 6 – Learning the Art of Effective Problem Solving. Effective

problem solving is essential toward creating a successful and harmonious dog/owner

relationship. As a professional dog trainer, your clients will ask you for solutions to a wide

variety of behavior problems they are experiencing with their dogs. It is important for you to

have a library of solutions to offer along with the ability to convey these solutions in an effective

and clear manner.

Goals

The following are the goals set for you to complete in the Learning the Art of

Effective Problem Solving stage:

1. Understand the Importance of Problem Solving.

2. Learn Techniques to Effectively Explain Behavior Problem Solutions

3. Learn Solutions to the Following Behavior Problems:

• Jumping (includes clicker methods written by Kellyann Payne)

• Puppy Nipping and Mouthing (includes clicker methods written by

Kellyann Payne)

• Unruly Behavior in the House

• Begging

• Stealing Food

• Jumping on Furniture

• Excessive Barking

• Inappropriate Chewing

• Stool Eating

• Housetraining

• Digging

• Bolting


4. Become Comfortable with Reciting These Solutions


Problem Solving Basics ABC defines a “behavior problem” or “problem

behavior” as a behavior that a dog owner deems

problematic. It is important to understand that the

same behavior may be deemed problematic by

one dog owner and completely acceptable or even

encouraged by another dog owner. Jumping on

people as a greeting behavior is a good example.

Jumping on people is much more likely to be on

the list of problem behaviors of an owner of a

German Shepherd rather than an owner of a Chihuahua. However, in some instances, dog

owners with German Shepherds would not consider jumping a problem behavior because they

are planning on pursuing a sport which encourages jumping on people (i.e., protection sports).

It is imperative that you are clear on what the dog owner considers problem behaviors when you

develop your Treatment Plan.

Once you have a clear understanding of what the owners deem as their dog’s problem

behavior(s), then your job is to help the dog understand what acceptable behavior in their

human environment is. All members of the household should have the same expectations and

be prepared to follow the Treatment Plan for each behavior that you are addressing. This is

critical or the dog will have great difficulty interpreting when a behavior is acceptable and when

it is not. As a result, he will become discriminate and offer the correct behavior inconsistently.

It is critical that an ABC Certified Dog Trainer treats

the cause of a behavior, not just the symptom.




Physical and Mental Stimulation Lack of physical exercise and/or mental stimulation alone

can create or contribute to certain behavior problems. If

physical exercise and mental stimulation are not

addressed as part of a Treatment Plan, you will more than

likely be treating only the symptom. If this happens, it is

extremely likely that a different behavior problem will

manifest as a result.

Medical Issues Medical issues should also be considered when treating behavior problem(s). Some medical problems can cause pain,

discomfort, and physical or emotional instability in puppies and

dogs. These side effects could contribute to or even create

certain behavior problems. Since individual dogs handle pain

and distress differently, it will take an experienced observer to

help you determine if a behavior problem is caused or

aggravated by an underlying medical problem. Sometimes an

experienced observer can provide a great deal of insight when

trying to determine if a dog is dealing with an undiagnosed medical problem. If you suspect this

is the case, recommend that the owners take their dog to a veterinarian.

Treatment Plan Components There are four components that need to be addressed when treating behavior problems. These

four components will be used as an outline when addressing individual behavior problems in

this stage. Each component will detail different actions that can be taken to help resolve or

curtail that specific behavior problem. You will notice that some actions can fit into more than

one component because many of the training techniques are related.

1. Positive Reinforcement of Alternate Behaviors

2. Management and Setting the Dog up to Succeed

3. Consequences for the Problem Behaviors

4. Consistency in Dealing with Problem Behaviors


Together, these four components are called the Treatment Plan. All four components need to

be addressed in order to eliminate or curtail the problem behavior.

ABC will remind you of the Treatment Plan components at the beginning of each behavior

problem covered in this section. This is done to ensure that you can easily recall and

communicate the necessary steps for treatment of any unwanted behavior.

Positive Reinforcement of Alternate Behaviors The majority of the behaviors we humans label “problems” are typically normal dog behaviors

that become inappropriate when demonstrated in our human environment. Behaviors like

jumping, digging, chewing, etc. are all normal dog behaviors. In addition, they are usually self-

rewarding behaviors, which means the dog truly enjoys engaging in them. The dog must be

taught that an alternate behavior is more rewarding than the “problem” behavior or the dog will

choose the problem behavior each time the opportunity arises. It is also critical to discover what

the trigger for the “problem” behavior is and desensitize the dog to the item or situation while

teaching him an acceptable alternate behavior. Discovering and desensitizing the dog to the

trigger may very well determine the success or failure of the Treatment Plan.

Your job as a professional dog trainer is to teach your clients to minimize or eliminate reactive

responses to their dog’s inappropriate behavior. This is done by teaching the owners to focus

on being proactive (i.e., praising their dog whenever he performs any acceptable alternate

behaviors), instead of reactive (i.e., leash and collar corrections, yelling). Most owners will

ignore their dogs when they are behaving in an appropriate manner (i.e., when they are lying

quietly). For the owner, it is much more difficult to ignore the dog when he is engaging in

inappropriate behavior. Because of this, most dogs quickly figure out that "bad" behaviors get

them attention. For a social animal like a dog, negative attention is often viewed as better than

no attention at all.


In short, positive reinforcement of alternate behavior(s) is critical in the treatment of behavior

problems. Failing to reward an alternate behavior is a missed learning opportunity for the dog.


Management of the Problem and Setting the Dog up to Succeed Dog owners need to be educated about the importance of management and setting their dog up

to succeed. The idea is to provide the dog with every possible opportunity to learn that the new

alternate behavior is more rewarding for him than the previous problem behavior. The dog

owner needs to supervise the dog and the dog’s environment so the dog is not able to perform

the undesired behavior. Since most dogs consider the problem behavior rewarding, each time

the dog performs it, he is being positively reinforced for the very behavior you are trying to

eliminate. The dog will not successfully learn the alternate behavior until the owner is consistent

in managing the dog and the dog’s environment. It may seem like common sense to a dog

trainer, but many dog owners don’t realize how important this is.

Until a dog is proficient at offering the new acceptable behavior in a particular situation

(approximately 90% successful), the dog must be prevented from offering the inappropriate

behavior at all times whether the owner is present or not. For example, while treating a dog

who engages in inappropriate chewing and destructive behavior, the owners will not be able to

leave their dog loose and unsupervised in the house or in the yard. Leaving an untrained and

unsupervised dog with that much freedom will commonly produce results similar to leaving an

average two-year-old unattended for hours at a time. Quite frankly, it would be crazy, not to

mention unsafe. Most people would never consider leaving a two-year-old unattended because

they would endanger themselves and potentially cause considerable damage to their surroundings.

By recommending the use of crates and dog runs until a dog is trained, you will be ensuring the

safety of the dog, creating a damage-control environment for the owners and eliminating the

possibility of the dog making improper choices. Most parents would agree that they put their

children in playpens and cribs for similar reasons.

Consequences for the Problem Behaviors Consequences are designed to tell a dog that the behavior he just offered moves him farther

away from his reward. In addition, a proper consequence should impact the dog enough that it

decreases his desire to offer the behavior again while compelling him to offer the appropriate

behavior immediately with a good attitude.


In most cases, behavior problems can be resolved through the use of positive reinforcement

and negative punishment only. If an owner is committed to training, positive punishment, such


as a leash and collar correction, should not be necessary to modify a dog’s behavior. Positive

punishment is most often introduced due to the owner’s lack of commitment to training, not

because the dog is unable to learn through positive reinforcement. However, there may be

times when you feel the introduction of negative reinforcement or positive punishment

techniques are justified, such as in a case where a person, other animal or the dog is in physical

danger or may be re-homed if the problem isn’t immediately corrected. You may need to try

several different consequences to find the one that is most effective for the dog you are working

with. If a particular consequence does not work, you should stop using it and try another. The

corrective technique chosen should always be based on the individual dog’s drives and

sensitivities as well as the owner’s implementation and abilities.

Positive Punishment and Negative Reinforcement Should I or Shouldn’t I?

Whether or not you opt to use positive punishment and negative reinforcement techniques, it is

important that you understand them. An ABC Certified Dog Trainer should be aware of the

effects that positive punishment and negative reinforcement training techniques could create or

encourage if used to treat behavior problems.

For example, using a physical correction to stop a dog from jumping can easily be

counterproductive. A sensitive dog may become fearful of people. You may think you are only

punishing the dog for jumping on a person, but the dog may think he is being punished just for

approaching a person. A more dominant dog may become aggressive. If a dog receives a leash

and collar correction for running over to and jumping on family members, especially small

children, the dog may begin to develop a negative association to being near family members.

Some dogs will begin to view the presence of children as a cue that something bad is going to

happen to them. This may even decrease the dog’s desire to come when called. In short, a friendly jumping problem can easily turn into a much more serious problem.


A common mistake that dog owners and trainers make when using positive punishment

techniques is not using them at an effective level when they are first applied. This is a problem

because dogs can become desensitized to low-level corrections rather easily. It is important to

use the lowest level correction necessary at a high enough level of stimulation to stop the

behavior after a maximum of two applications. If the dog does not demonstrate the correct


behavior immediately following a maximum of two identical corrections, reconsider what you are

doing. The dog may not have received enough shaping and positive reinforcement of the correct

response, the corrective technique may be being administered incorrectly, or the correction

selected could be wrong for the dog and situation.

ABC believes the use of negative reinforcement or positive punishment should only be

used sparingly, if at all, and should only be considered if:

• The dog has a clear understanding of the request.

• All other methods have been exhausted.

• The success of the training plan is in jeopardy.

Within the Treatment Plan for each problem behavior outlined in this stage, we will cover the

preferred methods of positive reinforcement and negative punishment. In addition, we will also

include negative reinforcement and positive punishment training techniques. While ABC does

not encourage the use of these techniques as primary training tools, we do believe they should

be tools in every balanced trainer’s toolbox. However, please keep in mind that they are at the

very bottom of the toolbox.

Consistency in Dealing With Problem Behaviors Dogs respond well to consistency. Explain to your clients that dogs are happy, confident and

secure in an environment where the rules and expectations are consistent. Explain that dogs

become suspicious and untrusting of an owner who changes the rules by expecting compliance

sometimes but not others. Owners who teach their dogs that a behavior is acceptable

sometimes and then get angry at the dog for the behavior at other times will almost always have

a difficult time eliminating the problem.


Good trainers should help their clients by consistently reminding them that the majority of

behaviors we humans label “problems” (i.e., jumping, chewing, digging, nipping, unruly behavior

in the house.) are self-rewarding behaviors for the dog. Because of this, most dogs will not miss

an opportunity to partake in them. It is for this reason that consistency plays such a crucial role

in treating behavior problems.



Resolving Problem Behaviors Jumping A trainer must first determine whether the dog is engaging in

friendly or serious jumping. Most dogs engage in friendly

jumping as a way to greet people or play with them. However, a

small percentage of dogs use jumping as a way to make a

dominant statement to people entering their territory. They do

not just jump up to say "Hi!” They jump up and keep their paws

on the person. Sometimes they place their paws on the

person’s shoulders and stare. They may also growl. A dog who

engages in serious jumping is generally an adult dog of a

protective guarding breed. Typically, this dog is living in an

environment that promotes his dominance and territoriality.

Thus, he perceives himself as the leader in the home with the

responsibility of protecting his territory and rights.

If you as the professional trainer determine that the dog is engaging in serious jumping, you

should encourage the owners to utilize the techniques outlined in Learning Theory under

“Leadership Exercises.” If the owners attempt to use some typical anti-jumping techniques and

do not correct their overall relationship with the dog, the dog may respond aggressively to them,

their children or guests. Once the relationship is addressed, the anti-jumping techniques and

exercises outlined in this section can be implemented.

If you as the trainer determine that the dog only engages in friendly jumping, you may begin

treatment of the jumping problem immediately.

Treatment Plan for Jumping on People There are four components that need to be addressed when treating inappropriate jumping.

• Positive Reinforcement of Alternate Behaviors

• Management of the Problem and Setting the Dog up to Succeed

• Consequences for Inappropriate Jumping

• Consistency in Dealing with Jumping


These four components are called the Treatment Plan. All four components need to be

addressed in order to eliminate and/or curtail the behavior. You will notice that some of the

information provided could fall into multiple categories, such as Positive Reinforcement of

Alternate Behaviors and Management of the Problem. However, we have placed them in the

most prominent category for ease of instruction.

Examples - How to Use the Treatment Plan for Jumping on People In this section, we will address the most common situations in which you will be asked to curtail

and/or eliminate a dog’s jumping behavior.

Jumping on Guests

Positive Reinforcement of Alternate Behaviors The dog must have a clear understanding of the alternate behavior that you are looking for. In

this case, a Sit or Sit-Stay is an appropriate alternate behavior. The owners should begin the

training protocol for Sit-Stay as outlined in the Basic Obedience Cues stage. The stronger the

sit and sit-stay behaviors are by the front door without guests present, the more likely the dog

will be to perform the behavior when guests are present. It is essential that the owner reward

the dog for being calm in the presence of people.

Examples - Rewarding Alternate Behaviors The owner comes out of the bedroom and the dog is lying quietly on his rug. The owner

should, without overly exciting the dog, approach the dog and offer him a reward for the

calm behavior. In this case, the reward may be a favorite chewy or a moment of petting.


The dog approaches the owner and sits calmly by the chair while the owner watches a

favorite TV program or reads a book. As long as the dog remains sitting calmly, the owner

should reward him with petting or give him his favorite chewy. During commercials, the


owner may even play with the dog by throwing his favorite toy down the hall or across the

room, engaging him in a game of fetch.

Desensitization Exercises The owner should also begin the desensitization process. Instruct the owner to begin

practicing the Sit and Sit-Stay cues at or near the front door when no guest is present. Make

sure the dog gets plenty of obedience practice in all greeting locations that he has failed in

before or where he is likely to greet guests in the future. Working basic obedience exercises

around mild distractions (i.e., opening and closing the front door) will also teach the dog to

focus on his owner and help develop impulse control. This will be beneficial when the owner

begins working with visitors.

Example - Desensitization Exercise Without a guest present, the owner should take time throughout the day to nonchalantly

open and close the front door, knock on the front door, and ring the doorbell. This process

should be repeated a minimum of 20 times per day. If necessary, she can pay a

neighborhood child to ring the doorbell and run or knock on the door and run. Initially, during

the desensitization process, the dog’s responses to the stimuli should be ignored and the

door noises should be treated as irrelevant. The owner should notice that the dog will begin

to decrease his level of excitement for ringing doorbells or knocks at the door because there

are no guests and nothing happens when he hears the noise. The owner should then start

asking for Sit-Stays during the desensitization exercises. The owner should still ignore the

door noises while practicing the sit-stay. These noises should become no more relevant to

the dog then the chiming of a clock.

As a trainer, you should encourage the owner to practice basic obedience throughout the house

prior to arrival of guests. Use the sit-stay and down-stay exercises especially by the doors that

people will be entering and exiting. You should emphasize the importance of rewarding the dog

each and every time he is sitting near anyone calmly, especially new people and for

approaching people calmly. The owner should also be instructed to have all new people greet

the dog calmly so they do not encourage the jumping behavior.



Management of the Problem and Setting the Dog up to Succeed

It is extremely important to avoid accidental reinforcement of the problem behavior until the dog

has learned to greet people properly. To do this, the owner must manage the dog’s

environment.

Start by having the owner keep the dog on-leash or have a leash easily accessible. A head

collar is highly recommended in this situation. When working on inappropriate jumping, do not

allow an unleashed dog to greet people at the front door until he can greet them approximately

90% of the time in the sit position while he is on-leash. Many owners will object to this based on

the premise that they cannot allow their dog to wear a leash and head collar all the time and do

not always know when guests are coming over. Recommend that the owners hang the leash

and head collar by the front door so that when guests arrive, they can instantly put it on the dog

to prevent him from jumping or quickly lead him to another room. The goal is to set the dog up

to succeed so he can begin to learn that the new non-jumping behaviors are more rewarding

than the jumping.

Example – If the Dog has a Strong Sit-Stay The doorbell rings and the owner approaches the door to open it and invite the guest in.

Prior to opening the door, the owner should put the dog on-leash and ask him to Sit next to

her. The owner should also have a prepared reward for the dog handy. Then and only then

should the owner open the door and allow the guest to enter. This exercise should be

practiced many times with a mock guest. A mock guest is a guest who is aware of the fact

that the owner is training her dog and understands what to do if the dog does start jumping.

Be prepared and practice this routine at every entrance where the dog is likely to encounter

people entering the house so he has a chance to generalize the behavior and understand

that guests are not for jumping on.

Example – If the Dog Does Not Have a Strong Sit-Stay


It is critical that the owners do not allow the dog to jump on guests at all. For the training to

be successful, they must make sure to stand far enough away from the guest to prevent

contact. ABC recommends that a head collar and leash be placed on the dog prior to any

greeting opportunity. If necessary, have the owners excuse themselves from their guest and

work with the dog until he demonstrates the appropriate behavior. If they are unable to do

this with unexpected guests, then the dog should be put in another room while they open the

door to assure that he will not have an opportunity to jump.


Some dogs may be more persistent jumpers. In many cases, the owners have tried to train

these dogs not to jump but were inconsistent with the training. You may also encounter a

situation where the owner is physically incapable of controlling or handling the dog while he

is jumping. In this situation, it may be necessary to eliminate the problem quickly. A head

collar and leash will allow the owner to gain immediate control.

The owner should be instructed to create a “greeting spot” for the dog near the area where

greetings typically occur. To do this, the owner should place a mat on the floor in front of the

hall closet near the front door. In addition, the dog’s leash should be tethered to the handle

of the closet door. The owner should practice Sit-Stays in the greeting spot without guests

present until the dog can offer a calm Sit-Stay on cue in the greeting spot. The dog will then

be required to go to that spot when guests arrive. Assist the owner in choosing a greeting

spot that will allow the dog to see the guests without being able to get to them. The owner

should then practice Sit and Sit-Stays in this spot. If they practice the Sit and Sit-Stay in this

spot over and over, the dog will associate the spot with sitting and being calm. This will help

him to remain calm when guests arrive. After the dog is 90% compliant in this one spot, the

owner may then graduate to asking for Sit-Stays prior to a guest entering the house, then

progress to Sit-Stays on the mat without tethering the dog. He or she may then advance to

Sit-Stays and Down-Stays in this spot without needing the stationing mat or the tether.

Please keep in mind that using this exercise will help the dog greet visitors calmly, but the

dog may not generalize the behavior as it has only performed in a single location. The

owner should now be encouraged to practice with the dog in many locations where guests

are likely to be encountered.

You should also instruct the owners to prevent the dog from jumping at all times whether

they are present or not. If the owner is not in a position to properly monitor and/or train the

dog to demonstrate acceptable behavior when greeting, then the owner should be instructed

to put the dog in an area where he does not have access to or cannot even see guests.

Consequences for Inappropriate Jumping


One of the most effective corrections for problem jumping is to remove the very reward the dog

is trying to obtain -- attention. To do this, remove any opportunity the dog has for physical

contact or eye contact by having the guests turn away from the dog and tuck their hands

underneath their arms when the dog jumps.


Example – If the Dog has a Strong Sit-Stay Before opening the door to greet a guest, make sure the dog is wearing a leash. Now

instruct the owner to ask her dog to Sit and Stay and then open the door and invite the

guest in. Instruct the guest to ignore the dog unless he remains in the sit-stay position.

Provided the dog is in the sit position, the owner and the guest should calmly pet and

praise the dog. The guest should be instructed to keep her hands below the level of the

dog's chin when petting. This will help keep the dog from jumping up as he will be

focused on the hands, which are below him. If the dog does jump up, give the No

Reward Marker and instruct the guest to immediately stop petting the dog. Immediately

ask the guest to move about four feet away from the dog (out of jumping range), turn her

back on the dog and tuck her hands under her arms. Instruct the owner to ask the dog

for a Sit-Stay again. When the dog is successfully sitting, have the guest approach the

dog again and begin the exercise again. If every time the dog jumps he hears the No

Reward Marker and receives a negative consequence for this behavior (removal of

attention) and every time he sits and stays he gets praised, most dogs will learn to sit as

opposed to jump.

Most dogs will respond to the above method very well given some time and training.

Unfortunately, there may be situations or circumstances where the behavior must be

eliminated immediately to ensure that the dog remains in his current home or to

eliminate safety concerns.

Example – If the Dog Does Not Have a Strong Sit-Stay For more persistent jumpers, dogs who have been inconsistently trained in the past,

dogs who don’t have a strong Sit-Stay, or for dogs and owners who are not successful

with the above methods, try the following.


• Before the owner opens the door, select a “greeting spot” near the front door and

tether the dog in place. When he is tied in place, make sure the leash is tight enough

to prevent him from moving out of position. To do this, tie the leash to a doorknob or

something slightly higher than the dog’s head. That will make it difficult for the dog

to stand up because when a dog stands up, his head goes down slightly. If the leash

is high, he will correct himself when his head goes down. The owner and the guest

should now slowly walk toward the tethered dog. If the dog remains in the sitting


position, the owner and guest should keep walking toward him and give the

conditioned reinforcer (i.e., “Good” or click), followed by the unconditioned reinforcer

(i.e., petting) when they get to him. If the dog gets out of the sitting position when

they are walking toward him or after they have reached him, the owner should

immediately give the No Reward Marker (i.e., “Eh-Eh”) and they should begin

backing away from the dog. Make sure they back away from the dog while they are

still facing the dog so the owner will know the instant the dog resumes the sitting

position. The instant the dog resumes the sitting position, give the conditioned

reinforcer and begin walking toward the dog again. Continue to do this exercise until

the dog is successful. The dog will quickly discover that he will get the attention he

craves if he remains seated.

Some extremely persistent dogs who have been trained inconsistently or small dogs

whom it is difficult to tether may respond better to having the owner step on the leash.

This is a method that can be effective in initially preventing a dog from jumping. It will

also give the owner a chance to praise the dog. After the dog begins to understand that

the alternate behavior is more rewarding, this will most likely no longer be necessary.

• Before opening the door, have the owner attach a leash to the dog’s collar and step

on the leash. Make sure the leash is short enough to prevent the dog from jumping

up no more than an inch or two but slack enough to allow him to try to jump. Instruct

both the owner and guest to ignore the dog until he is not trying to jump up anymore.

Once the dog stops trying to jump up, he can be praised and rewarded for the calm

greeting. This is an effective exercise because the dog does not see the owner

actually doing anything except praising calm behavior. It also gives the owner and

guest the chance to completely ignore the dog while he is attempting to demonstrate

the unacceptable behavior.

Important Note: If the jumping is in any way aggressive or if the dog begins to react aggressively, immediately stop this training and begin to work on the aggression issues before the dog has further contact with strangers and/or guests.



Consistency in Dealing with Jumping The owner should be prepared to consistently practice the non-jumping exercises at least 10

minutes per day along with consistently praising the dog for calm behavior when people are

present. If the owner is not consistent, the dog will not be consistent either. Remind the owner

that jumping is often a self-rewarding behavior and most dogs will continue to jump at every

opportunity if the training is inconsistent.



Jumping on Owners

Positive Reinforcement of Alternate Behaviors Just like when treating a dog who jumps on guests, when treating a dog who greets his owner

by jumping, the owner must learn to positively reinforce alternate behaviors. The owner should

begin training the dog using the training protocol for the Sit-Stay outlined in the Basic

Obedience Cues stage. The stronger the sit and sit stay behaviors are, the more likely it is that

the dog will perform the behavior when greeting the owner. In addition, it is very important to

pet and verbally praise the dog every time he approaches without jumping. Keep in mind that it

is often not enough to just verbally praise some dogs for not jumping; petting, toys and treats

may also be used to make the attention truly rewarding.

Owners should be instructed to reward their dog for several seconds for all non-jumping

greetings. Remember that dogs with jumping issues usually want the attention and/or physical

contact. Be sure the owner understands how vitally important it is for them to only pay attention

to the dog when he is not jumping and to make that attention very rewarding for the dog. In

addition, be sure that the dog is receiving adequate human contact so that he is capable of calm

greetings.


The owner needs to reward her dog a minimum of 10 minutes per day while he is sitting,

standing, or lying down calmly. Instruct the owner to pet/reward the dog for a longer period of

time if he is sitting near them as opposed to standing or lying down. This will teach the dog that

standing or lying down near the owner pays well, but sitting near the owner pays excellent.


Important Note: If a dog is overly excited and jumping all over an owner after only a few minutes of separation, you may want to determine if the dog is suffering mildly from separation anxiety. If this is the case, you will need to treat the separation anxiety before beginning any of the jumping training discussed in this section. A dog with separation anxiety will most likely be incapable of learning not to jump until he is able to be calm in the owner’s absence.


Owners need to be prepared prior to greeting their own dog. One of the most common errors

owners make when trying to stop their dog from jumping on them during greetings is not being

prepared prior to greeting the dog. You should instruct the owners to anticipate and then

successfully manage their dog’s “jumpy” greetings until the dog has a solid Sit-Stay. Before any

greeting is done with an untrained dog, he should be put on a leash or the leash should be

easily accessible. The owner should also be prepared to redirect the dog by offering the dog an

alternative stimulus before he jumps.

Example – The Owner Enters the Backyard For a dog who jumps on any family member that enters the backyard, you should

instruct the owner to leave a few of the dog’s favorite toys near the door to the backyard

on the inside of the house. Before any family members enter the yard, they should grab

one of these toys and then immediately throw it when they open the door. Food treats

will work the same for dogs who have a strong food drive. Simply scatter a few small

treats on the ground as you enter the backyard. While the dog is busy eating the treats,

you have an opportunity to leash the dog and reward him for non-jumping behavior.

Consequences for Inappropriate Jumping The most common and most preferred consequence is to remove the reward the dog is trying to

obtain -- attention. Even if the owners try to get the dog to stop jumping by saying "No!” it is still

extremely rewarding for most dogs to make any type of contact with their owner. The dog must

learn that he will not be rewarded with attention (positive or negative) while he is jumping.

Example – Jumping on the Owner in General


In general, when the dog jumps, the owner should turn away and instantly stop all

interactions with the dog, both verbal and physical. Some dogs will continue to jump for


10 or 15 seconds before trying another behavior to get the owner’s attention. Usually,

the dog will come around to try to face the person and then jump again. The owner

should again turn the other way and continue to ignore the behavior. Make sure that the

owner does not touch the dog with her hands or make direct eye contact with the dog

during this time as the dog may interpret those behaviors as rewarding. Some owners

may need to ignore the dog for up to two or three minutes before the dog stops jumping

and tries another approach. The owners should keep an eye on the dog (without making

eye contact) so they will notice the moment the dog is no longer jumping. As soon as

the dog has all four feet on the ground (“four on the floor”), the owner should give the

conditioned reinforcer and direct her attention back on the dog by immediately turning

and facing him. Next, guide the dog into the sitting position by luring. Most dogs learn

very quickly that they will be ignored unless they are in the sit position. The instant the

dog begins to jump again, stop all attention and repeat the above steps. Discontinue this

technique if the dog persists at the same intensity. This technique is not for everybody.

Elderly or small people with large dogs may not be good candidates for this method. It is

extremely important that you do not give in at any time and give the jumping dog

attention. This will only teach him to jump longer to get your attention and will make

teaching him not to jump much harder.

Example – Jumping on the Owners When They Arrive Home


In this example, you are working on teaching the dog not to jump on his owners when

they arrive home. The dog is loose in the house and ready to jump on the owners when

they open the door to enter the house. Instruct the owner to approach the front door and

start to open it. Open the door only a few inches. If the owners see the dog jumping, they

should close the door immediately. Once they can hear or see that the dog stops

jumping for approximately one second, give the conditioned reinforcer, and then slowly

begin opening the door a few inches and start to step through the doorway. If the dog

starts to jump again, give the No Reward Marker (i.e., “No” or “Eh-Eh”) and immediately

and abruptly step back outside and close the door. Wait a few seconds before trying

again. Slowly open the door again. If the dog is standing or sitting, give the conditioned

reinforcer and quickly step through the doorway. Before he starts to jump, the owner

should throw a handful of the dog’s favorite treats on the ground. Use a treat that

scatters easily like Cheerios. Before the dog gets done eating the goodies on the

ground, attach the leash. Recommend that the owner hang the leash by front door so


that it is easily accessible. As the dog is eating the treats on the floor, the owner should

calmly praise him and give him the interaction he is longing for. As the owner is praising

the dog, calmly attach the leash and ask the dog to Sit as he is finishing his treats. This

process may take a half a dozen or so times for the dog to realize that the owners will

not come in if he is jumping. The dog will eventually learn that if he is jumping, the door

will close and he will not be able to greet his owners. If the owners wait for the dog to

stop jumping before coming through the door, the dog should quickly learn that he has

the power to make them come in faster by being calm and not jumping.

Example – Jumping Continues Even When Owner Turns Away Some extremely persistent dogs, high-energy dogs or dogs who have been trained

inconsistently may respond better to having the owner step on the leash. This is a

method that can be effective in initially teaching a dog not to jump and gives the owner a

chance to play with the dog. After the dog begins to understand that the alternate

behavior is more rewarding, this will most likely no longer be necessary. By stepping on

the leash so the dog’s front feet can only come one to two inches off the ground, the dog

actually corrects himself the moment he starts to jump.

Step on the leash so the dog can only jump up approximately one to two inches. With

your foot securely on the leash, begin moving slightly from side to side. Try leaning over

the dog a bit and speaking sweetly to him. Since the dog can only jump up one to two

inches, he is being set up to succeed. The dog will start to associate these exercises as

being times when he definitely should not jump because the leash has stopped him

abruptly each time he attempts to. Once the dog stops trying to jump up, give the

conditioned reinforcer and unconditioned reinforcer. It is important that the dog does not

associate the leash with the correction. It will be necessary for the dog to drag the leash

around the house for about 10 minutes per day outside of training sessions. You do not

want the dog to conclude that when you put the leash on him, the rules change.



Important Safety Note:

Never leave a leash on a dog who is unsupervised as this is a

safety hazard.

Consistency in Dealing with the Problem Behavior


The owners should be prepared to consistently practice the non-jumping exercises every single

time they come in the door and continue consistently praising the dog for calm behavior when

people are present. If the owner is not consistent, the dog will not be consistent either. Remind

the owner that jumping is often a self-rewarding behavior and most dogs will continue to jump at

every opportunity if the training is inconsistent. Remind your clients that owners who teach their

dogs that jumping is acceptable sometimes (when they have jeans on) but not other times

(when they have linen slacks on) will almost always have a difficult time eliminating the problem.


How to Use the Clicker to Eliminate Jumping as a Greeting Behavior

ABC believes that clickers and clicker training techniques should be in the toolbox of every ABC

Certified Dog Trainer. The following information was written for Animal Behavior College by Ms.

Kellyann Payne.


Using a Clicker to Eliminate Jumping as a Greeting Behavior By Kellyann Payne

Dogs can easily develop the bad habit of jumping. To your dog jumping seems like a good way to show affection and enthusiasm. It’s also a quick and easy way for your dog to get your attention. Most people will respond to jumping by pushing the dog down or away or telling him “no”. Some people may even reward the dog’s jumping by petting him. Unfortunately all of these reactions can actually encourage this behavior by giving your dog exactly what he's looking for - attention. If you want your dog to stop jumping, you must make it crystal clear that when he jumps, the fun and attention ends and when he greets you politely, by keeping four paws on the floor or by sitting, that he will get the attention he craves. Now before we begin we must stress that it's important that you don't let your dog jump on anyone. Even though some people may not mind your dog jumping up, others certainly will. It's unfair to expect your dog to know the difference between you and a young child. So, prepare your family and friends to make sure everyone knows the rules. Here's what you'll need to get started: your clicker, some soft, chewy treats, and a tether or leash. We'll start by practicing at the front door or where ever your dog greets most people. Greeting You: We will start working on the way he greets you. Follow these same steps for each family member. The goal is for your dog to understand that his calm behavior is what gets him the reward of being with his people.

Step# 1: Walk in the door armed with a handful of treats and your clicker. As you walk in the door you can anticipate that your dog will jump on you to say hello. You can try to prevent his jumping all together by tossing a few treats on the floor in his direction. By doing this you may be able to redirect his initial enthusiasm. The moment your dog halts to chase the treats you tossed, you can click and let him chase his treats. You are clicking him for halting forward progress toward you. If tossing the treats was successful, try tossing a few more toward him (and away from you) as he dashes toward you until he settles down. Each time he halts on his way to you, click and let me chase the treats. If tossing treats toward him was not successful, proceed to Step #2. Step# 2: When your dog jumps on you, step toward him while turning with your hip and ignore him completely. Don't make eye contact with him, don't bother telling him "no", just act like he doesn't exist. When he has four paws on the floor click and


6-24

Using a Clicker to Eliminate Jumping as a Greeting Behavior (continued) By Kellyann Payne

reward him with a treat, petting or even toss a toy. If your dog jumps on you when you praise him, turn your back and step away from him, removing all attention. When all four paws are on the floor again click and treat.

Step# 3: As your dog improves you can start to delay your click until he offers a sit.

Step# 4: When you are ready to move on to other family members follow these same steps as above only you can help manage your dog by using a leash or a tether to help minimize him jumping.

Step# 5: Another suggestion that can help give you some extra control is to place a baby gate near the doorway. Start with your dog on one side of the baby gate while you enter on the other side. Approach the gate. If your dog jumps up, stop moving or take a step back away from the gate. As soon as your dog sits or has four on the floor click and reward him by coming back with praise and a treat. When the dog remains calmly off the gate at your approach, you can enter the room and be sure to reward him. Keep practicing until you see him reliably sitting or calmly keeping four on the floor every time you approach the gate.

Greeting Guests: You’ll want your dog to greet your guests politely too. Many of the above steps will apply to this scenario too.

Step# 1: Set up a tether near the front door. Have a container of treats handy and your clicker.

Step# 2: Invite a friend over to your homes to help you practice. Let them know the goal is for your dog to keep all four paws on the floor during greetings. This means that they should remove any attention (including eye contact), turn their back, or even step back outside if the dog jumps or leaps toward them.

Step# 3: When they knock or ring the bell your dog will likely dash to the door. Calmly bring him to the tether, leash him up and go answer the door.

Step# 4: If your dog jumps up, your guest will ignore the dog and take a step back. Try again in about 10 seconds. Step# 5: When your guest approaches and your dog keeps four paws on the floor click and reward by tossing him with a treat and by giving some attention. You may need to do this several times with your guest before your dog understands that his calm behavior gets him the reward and attention.

Step# 6: Practice this same process with lots of different people. The wider variety of people that you practice with the better your dog will come to understand that this is

© Animal Behavior College, Inc.



Using a Clicker to Eliminate Jumping as a Greeting Behavior (continued) By Kellyann Payne

how he should greet ALL people.

When your dog is a puppy it can be cute to see him jump up for attention. However, as he gets bigger this behavior becomes more and more problematic. By following our simple steps, your dog will learn to be a polite companion.


Jumping When Putting the Leash On

Dogs tend to jump excitedly when they see the leash, not because they love the leash, but

because they love what the leash represents -- a walk. It does not take long for a dog to make

the connection between the leash and going for a walk.

Positive Reinforcement of Alternate Behaviors All owners of dogs with a jumping problem should begin the training protocol for Sit-Stay

outlined in the Basic Obedience Cues stage. The ideal alternate behavior for jumping is a Sit or

Sit-Stay. In addition, it is also important to implement some simple desensitization and

counterconditioning exercises.

Example - Leash Desensitization Exercise Teach the dog that the presence of the leash does not necessarily mean that he is going

for a walk. The owner should take the leash out a minimum of 20 times a day and walk

around the house with the leash in-hand, completely ignoring the dog. The owner

should not approach the dog or acknowledge his presence. The owner should then go

put the leash away and repeat the process every day for a couple of weeks. After a

couple of weeks, the owner can get the leash and begin standing near the door that is

normally exited when taking the dog out for walks. The owner should continue practicing

this exercise a minimum of 20 times a day until the dog’s excitement level has

decreased to a manageable level when he sees the owner standing near the door and

holding the leash. This decreased excitement will increase the probability of success

when the owner asks the dog to Sit before leashing him.


After the dog starts to calm down in the presence of the leash, the owner can begin to work on

rewarding the dog for alternate behaviors. In this case, the alternate behavior will be a sit-stay

while the leash is being attached.


Example – Practice Sit-Stay and Attach the Leash It is best to begin practicing attaching the leash to the dog in an area other than the one

used to begin a walk. Have the owner begin by taking the dog to the living room or a

bedroom. The owner should have the leash already in the room where she intends to

practice. The dog should be asked to perform a few Sit-Stays in that area. The owner

should get the leash and hang it over her neck and repeat the sit exercise a few more

times until the dog is focused again and is readily offering the sit-stay behavior. After the

dog can offer the correct sit-stay behavior 90% of the time with the leash present, then

the owner should begin to attach the leash to the dog’s collar while he is in the sit

position. To do this, the leash should be in the owner’s hand when she asks the dog to

Sit. When he sits, she should say “Good” and move to attach the leash. After the leash is

attached, she should say “Good” again and give the dog a reward. The owner should

then remove the leash and give the Release cue. This should be practiced five to 10

times per day, moving closer to the door used to go for a walk over a period of a few

days or even a few weeks depending on the dog.

Every dog will learn this behavior at his own rate. It is important not to rush the training as the

dog may revert back to the jumping behavior if desensitization exercises are not practiced

successfully.

Management of the Problem and Setting the Dog up to Succeed Some owners take their dogs for walks on a daily basis. These owners may find it difficult to

manage the behavior when they have to leash the dog for daily walks before the training is

completed. It is still important that they do not reward the dog for unruly behavior by taking him

for a walk when he is jumping.

Example – Go for a Walk


Have the owner randomly present the leash during one of her training sessions. After

the dog has calmed down from seeing the leash, the owner should ask the dog to Sit.

When he sits, she should be instructed to very calmly approach the dog and attach the

leash and immediately give the Release word. She should then just as calmly walk away

from the dog, allowing him to drag the leash. After a few minutes when the dog is calm,

instruct the owner to pick up the leash and rapidly exit for a walk, before the dog has a

chance to start jumping. Some dogs may try to jump on you for the first part of the walk.


If this happens, the owner should calmly stop and ignore the dog. The walk should not

resume until the dog has stopped jumping. When the dog stops jumping, the owner

should give the conditioned reinforcer and start to walk again. If the dog starts to jump

again, the process should be repeated until he is calm.

It is very important that the dog is exposed to the leash at least 20 times when nothing

happens to every one time that it means he gets to go for a walk.

Consequences for Inappropriate Jumping What most owners do is struggle and struggle with the wiggling, jumping dog until they finally

get the leash attached and then take the dog for a walk. This actually rewards the dog for

struggling and wiggling. Instead, you need to teach owners to remove the opportunity the dog is

trying to obtain, the opportunity to go for a walk, as a consequence for jumping. The dog needs

to learn that the owner can change her mind about going for a walk and that his behavior has

consequences. Ideally, the owner should get the leash out and the dog should sit and wait for

the owner to attach it and go for a walk.

Example – Remove the Opportunity to Earn a Walk


If the dog does not sit when he is asked, the owner should put the leash away and leave

the area of the door for about 5 to 15 seconds. The dog will probably follow the owner,

wondering why he did not get to go for a walk. After a few seconds, the owner should go

back to the door, get the leash and ask the dog to Sit again. She should repeat this until

the dog sits calmly, waiting to be leashed. She should then slowly move and lean down

to buckle the leash to the dog’s collar. If the dog gets out of the sit position, she should

give the No Reward Marker and stand straight up, removing the opportunity for the dog

to be leashed. The owner should then ask the dog to Sit again. If he does not sit, she

should put the leash back in the closet and not try again for at least 30 minutes. If he

does sit, she should begin slowly moving toward the dog to attach the leash again. If he

moves out of the sit position again, she should give the No Reward Marker and stand

straight up, repeating the exercise above. The owner should continue with this exercise

until the dog will remain seated while she attaches the leash to the collar. When the

leash is attached to the collar and the dog is still the sit position, she should give the

Release cue and reward the dog by immediately taking him for a walk.


Consistency in Dealing with the Problem Behavior The owner must consistently adhere to the Treatment Plan in order to achieve consistent

results. The dog should be required to demonstrate the appropriate behavior each and every

time he is taken for a walk. Being inconsistent in the criteria for going for a walk may cause the

behavior to actually get worse. If during practice the owner requires calm behavior but for the

actual walk, she lets the dog be jumpy because she is in a hurry, she is actually teaching the

dog that jumping works and he will increase the behavior.

Jumping During Playtime

Positive Reinforcement of Alternate Behaviors Before dog owners can positively reinforce alternate behaviors, they must first teach their dogs

what alternate behavior(s) will be acceptable during playtime. As with all problem behaviors,

owners should be ready and willing to engage in a structured alternate behavior instead of just

letting the dog demonstrate unacceptable behaviors in an attempt to play with them. If there is

not a structured game, the dog will most likely play like dogs do instinctually – by jumping, using

their mouths, and running around crashing into their playmates. These are natural play

behaviors for dogs. In addition, if the owners do not bring toys to play with, they can easily

become the toys themselves. Keep in mind that owners will be more successful if the alternate

behavior they select is fun for their dogs. Examples of playtime behaviors might be the game of

fetch or the game of hide-and-seek. Please refer to “Teaching Fetch” in the Basic Obedience

Cues stage for step-by-step instructions. Please see below for basic instruction on how to play

hide-and-seek.

Example - Play Hide-and-Seek The game of Hide-and-Seek is very enjoyable for most dogs. To begin, make sure the

owner has treats or toys on her person. Next, there are two options:

• Wait until the dog is distracted by something before hiding.


• Have someone hold the dog by the collar while the owners go hide.


Have the owners begin calling the dog by name and listen to him frantically start looking

for them. If someone is holding the dog by his collar, make sure they understand to

release the dog once the dog hears his owner calling him. Once the dog finds his

owner, she should reward him with either the treat or the toy. In the beginning, the

owner should hide in places that the dog can easily find her. As the dog gets better at

the game, the owner should gradually hide in more difficult places. She can then watch

his progress and enthusiasm escalate with every search. It is fun to see how ecstatic

and proud the dog is when he finally locates his owner. This is a great game for

strengthening the recall as well.

Example – Use Sit as an Alternate Behavior During Fetch The owner should prepare the play area by placing several of the dog’s favorite toys in

the play area within easy reach for owner but where the dog can’t get to them. In

addition, the owner should have a few toys hidden on her person. She should then

calmly approach the dog. If the dog is in a crate, make sure to instruct your client to

require calm behavior from the dog prior to opening the crate door. The owner should

then walk the dog to the play area and cue the dog to Sit. Once the dog is sitting, she

can give the Release cue and then immediately throw the toy. Be sure the owner

understands that she should only throw the toy or the ball when the dog is in the sit

position. Once the dog retrieves the toy, she may repeat the process.

See the “Teaching Fetch” section in the Basic Obedience Cues stage if you are having

difficulty with the dog bringing the ball back or releasing it. Be sure to put the toy away or

instruct the owner to do so when done. This will help make it a highly-valued item for

future playtimes and also help the dog understand that the owner controls all of his

resources.


Important Note: Often, an owner who complains that her dog jumps all over her in the yard has a dog who lives in the yard and does not have adequate human interaction. Dogs who are deprived of human interaction will lack the ability to remain calm and practice impulse control as they very likely have not ever learned or been exposed to “proper behavior” in the past. These dogs will need to receive adequate interaction, basic impulse control training and have a basic understanding of what behavior is expected before any serious training can begin.


Management of the Problem and Setting the Dog up to Succeed The owner should always have several toys and treats on-hand before playing with the dog.

Remind the owner that if she doesn’t bring toys to the party, she will become the toy. Have the

owner be prepared to manage the dog’s jumping behavior by having several toys to keep him

running and/or treats if needed to reward non-jumping behavior.

Example – Manage Play Sessions When the owner first takes the dog to the play area, he may be too excited to calmly sit

or, in the case of a high-energy dog who has been in a crate all day, just too wound up

to sit. In this instance, instruct the owner to simply throw the ball immediately upon

entering the play area, before the dog starts to jump. After the owner throws the first ball

and the dog brings it back, she should take the second ball out of her pocket and throw it

for the dog before he has a chance to jump on her. The owner may then pick up the first

ball and repeat until the dog burns off some energy and is ready to be calm. The owner

may then start to practice the sit and fetch exercises described above.

Consequences for Inappropriate Jumping Negative punishment is an excellent consequence to use in this context! Some trainers use

positive punishment to correct jumping; however, we believe this is not necessary. Simply

removing what the dog wants most in this circumstance -- the owner and the toy -- is too

powerful not to work!

Example – Remove the Opportunity to Play If the dog jumps on the owner while playing fetch, instruct the owner to ignore the dog

until he stops. The instant the dog stops, the owner should immediately toss the toy.

This should be done rapidly enough so that the dog is rewarded for not jumping and

doesn’t have a chance to re-offend before the owner tosses the toy.


Some extremely persistent dogs, high-energy dogs, or dogs who have been trained

inconsistently may respond better to having the owner step on the leash. This is a

method that can be effective in initially teaching a dog not to jump and provides the

owner with a chance to successfully play with the dog. After the dog begins to

understand that the alternate behavior is more rewarding, this will most likely no longer

be necessary.


Example – Manage Playtime with a Leash The owner should always have several toys and treats on-hand before playing with the

dog. Remind the owner that if she doesn’t bring toys to the party, she will become the

toy. Prepare the owner to manage the dog’s jumping behavior by attaching a two- to

four-foot piece of rope to the dog’s flat collar. Have her walk him to the play area.

Whenever the owner suspects that the dog might jump or whenever the dog starts to

jump, have the owner step on the rope immediately. The owner should not remove her

foot from the rope and should not respond to the dog until he is exhibiting calm behavior,

such as sitting or having all four paws on the floor. The instant the dog stops trying to

jump, the owner should remove her foot from the rope and throw the toy again.

Training Tip The owner should always be aware of the location of the rope in relation to her feet. It is very easy for an owner to become tangled in the rope and be pulled off her feet when the dog takes off chasing a toy.

Positive Punishment Techniques Below is a list of positive punishment and negative reinforcement training techniques that some

trainers use to treat problem jumping. ABC is not encouraging the use of these techniques as

primary training tools; however, we do believe that ABC Certified Dog Trainers should have a

complete education. Remember that "reactions" or corrections to jumping do not replace actual

training where the dog learns not to jump even when excited or distracted.

Verbal Correction The dog must have a clear understanding of the word in order for this technique to be

effective. If the dog does not immediately stop jumping after a firm verbal correction

("No" or "Eh-Eh"), try a different technique. If the dog does stop jumping, make sure he

has all four paws on the floor before instructing the owner to give the conditioned

reinforcer and unconditioned reinforcer or to interact with him in any way. The owner

should remove all attention the instant he begins to jump again.

Squirting Water in the Dog’s Face


The instant the dog jumps up, squirt him in the face. Do not aim for his eyes! Do not add

anything to the water! This should cause him to stop jumping momentarily. As soon as


he has all four paws on the floor, give the conditioned reinforcer, followed by the

unconditioned reinforcer. If he starts to jump again, squirt him again and repeat.

Discontinue this technique if it is not immediately effective. Be careful to keep the squirt

bottle hidden since the dog can learn to watch for the squirt bottle. Remember, squirting

him is not meant to scare him; it is to startle him so he will stop jumping and give you a

chance to reward him for having all four paws on the ground. If the water frightens the

dog, stop using it immediately. Never use this surprise correction technique or any other

surprise correction technique on a fearful dog or puppy.

Shaker Can

A shaker can is an aluminum soda can with approximately 25 pennies in it. The top of

the can should be taped over so the pennies won’t fall out. The instant the dog jumps

up, the owner should take the can of pennies from behind her back, shake it, and then

quickly hide the can behind her back again. This should cause the dog to stop jumping

momentarily. As soon as he has all four paws on the floor, the owner should give the

conditioned and unconditioned reinforcer. If the dog starts jumping again, the owner

should shake the can again and repeat. This technique should be discontinued if it does

not produce immediate results. Be careful to instruct the owner to keep the shaker can

hidden since the dog can learn to watch for it. Remember, the shaker can is not meant

to scare the dog; it is used to startle him so he will stop jumping and give you or the

owner a chance to reward him for having all four paws on the ground. If the dog is

frightened by this technique, stop using it immediately. Never use this surprise correction

technique or any other surprise correction technique on a fearful dog or puppy.

Leash Correction


An effective leash correction is a quick motion where the owner abruptly pulls the leash

hard enough to momentarily tighten the collar around the dog’s neck and then

immediately releases the pressure. This is sometimes called a "pop" or "leash pop.”

The "pop" needs to be given at a level of intensity that will immediately stop the behavior

the instant the dog starts to jump. As soon as he has all four paws on the floor, the

owner should give the conditioned and unconditioned reinforcer. If he starts jumping

again, repeat the correction. If the dog persists at the same intensity after two leash

corrections, stop and examine the use and application of this correction. Refer to the

Learning Theory stage for important points to remember when using corrections. The


intensity of the "pop" will differ from dog to dog; however, it should never cause a stress

response. This technique may be very effective if administered appropriately and timed

perfectly. One concept trainers should be aware of is that most dogs are highly

conscious of the fact that someone is handling the leash. It is helpful if the person

administering the correction is not the person the dog is jumping on. Everyone should

act as though the whole situation is a surprise since the dog may instantly try to

determine who gave the correction. Make sure the dog gets at least 10 positive

experiences after each leash correction so he does not make a negative association to

the people he is jumping on.

Consistency in Dealing with the Problem Behavior If the owner plays roughly, which includes wrestling and vigorous petting, the dog will be far

more likely to jump. When the owner wants to play with the dog, she should direct the dog’s

attention to proper toys to reduce the chance that he will jump. Refer to “Leadership Exercises”

in Learning Theory for a list of proper toys. Every person the dog comes in regular contact with,

be it other family members, housemates or frequent guests, should be required to follow all four

steps of the Treatment Plan. It only takes one person to hinder the process. It is also important

to educate owners about the importance of supervising all play between their dog and children.

Important Note: Educate your clients about consistently giving their dogs sufficient exercise on a daily basis. Different dogs have different exercise requirements. If a dog with a high exercise requirement does not have the opportunity to expend his energy in an acceptable fashion (i.e., playing with other dogs at doggie day care, going for a two-mile jog (not walk), or playing fetch nonstop for 30 minutes), it will be difficult to control behaviors such as jumping.

In closing, teach the dog’s owners that jumping is a normal behavior and one that will not be

eliminated overnight. Remind them that their dogs may have jumped on them or guests

thousands of times and that expecting any training method to be successful after two or three

applications is not realistic. It could take several weeks or as long as a month to curtail a difficult

jumping problem. Owners need to have patience to practice and to be consistent. If they are,

they will be able to deal with this and all behavior problems over time.




Common Problems Encountered When Modifying Jumping Behavior

I tried to ignore the dog

while he was jumping but

he just kept jumping and

jumping. I finally had to

scold him and tell him to

get down. He just does not

seem to understand not to

jump without me yelling at

him.

Wait for Calm Behavior - Often the owner will try to ignore the dog for

15 or 20 seconds and then get impatient and scold the dog (positive

punishment).

• By scolding the dog, the owner has given him what he wants - attention.

• The dog has also learned that if he wants this attention

(after eight hours alone that is understandable), he will have

to jump for a longer amount of time and maybe even get

more excited for the owner to notice him.

• Every single time the owner acknowledges the dog before

he stops jumping, she is rewarding him for the jumping

behavior and encouraging him to increase the intensity of

the behavior.

• If the owner waits for the dog to get frantic before giving up

and scolding him, she has taught him that being frantic is

what she wants and what will get him the attention he

desires.

Consider Using Corrections - Some owners cannot or will not take

the time to train their dog using positive methods. In these cases, some

trainers introduce correction methods to compensate for the owners’

lack of commitment. Although correction is not the most desirable

method to use, some trainers consider using them if it will keep the dog

from being re-homed.

Every time I arrive home

from work the dog jumps

all over me. I realize that

he has been alone for 10

hours, but I cannot get him

to stop and he is ruining

my clothes.

Increase Social Interaction - This owner needs to realize that her dog

needs more social interaction and she will have to work more closely

with the dog when she is home to modify his behavior.

Set the Dog up to Succeed – In this case, the dog simply may not be

able to manage a quiet Sit-Stay when the owner first gets home.

Instruct the owner to have toys or treats on her to redirect the dog’s

behavior the instant she walks through the door.


Common Problems Encountered When Modifying Jumping Behavior


The dog does not jump on

me anymore but other

family members or guests

are fair game. I do not

really mind if he jumps

on the kids but I get

really embarrassed when

he jumps on guests.

Other Family Members - This owner is probably inconsistent with

discouraging or managing the jumping behavior. Perhaps the owner

consistently manages and rewards the dog when interacting directly

with the dog but is inconsistent when it comes to the dog and his

interactions with children. This owner needs to be diligent in teaching

the dog not to jump on the children and should teach the children how

to work with the dog themselves to insure more consistency in the

behavior.

Guests - This owner might just banish the dog to another room when

guests come over instead of training him because the dog’s behavior is

embarrassing. With guests, it is always best to set the dog up with

mock visitors. Have the owner ask a friend who likes dogs to come over

and help the owner work on changing the dog’s jumping behavior. If the

owner can get the dog not to jump on expected visitors when they

arrive, she will be more confident when unexpected guests arrive and

the dog will have a better idea of what is expected of him.

• Some dog owners take their dog’s “bad” behavior as a personal

insult. Some owners will even think that the dog misbehaves on

purpose just to embarrass them. This is not true, although some

dogs do learn that misbehaving is rewarding. This is especially

common with dogs whose only real interaction with the owner is

when the owner is scolding or chastising him for misbehaving.

Reassure the owner that the dog is not deliberately trying to

embarrass her.

• Some owners may be reluctant to train their dog in front of other

people because they are afraid that they will appear to be a “bad

dog owner.” After all, Lassie never had to be trained or corrected

and was always well-behaved. This owner needs to be assured that

she is not a bad dog owner and that her dog is not a bad dog. If the

owner is unfamiliar with dogs, you may need to explain that Lassie

was played by five different dogs who received many hours of

training per day to maintain their good TV behavior.


Common Problems Encountered When Modifying Jumping Behavior I just cannot handle this

behavior anymore; my dog

is still jumping on me.

Nothing I do seems to

help. I am thinking about

finding him a new home.

Consider Using Corrections - Unfortunately, as a trainer you will hear

this from frustrated owners. Some owners cannot or will not take the

time to positively train their dog. In these cases, some trainers

introduce positive punishment correction methods to compensate for

the owners’ lack of commitment. Although positive punishment

correction is not the most desirable method to use, some trainers

consider it to keep the dog from being re-homed.

In some cases, you will not succeed in keeping the dog in his current

home. This is a sad fact of dog training and it is never easy. Focus

your attention on the dogs and dog owners you can help and go to bed

at night knowing you have done everything you could.

This question-and-answer section is designed to give you sample responses to the most

common questions or difficulties that owners have while trying to teach their dog not to jump.

Keep in mind that every answer you give to an owner should be phrased in a manner that does

not offend or chastise the owner. Offending the owner will not help the dog and may even earn

you a bad reputation.



Puppy Nipping and Mouthing Puppy nipping can be a very frustrating problem for

puppy owners to deal with and can become a

serious problem if dealt with incorrectly. As a

trainer, you must first determine if a puppy is

engaging in friendly nipping and mouthing or serious

nipping and mouthing. Typically, friendly nipping and

mouthing occurs during excitable greetings or

during playtime with a puppy who is less than five

months of age. Puppies are not unlike human babies in their need to explore their environment

by touching and tasting everything. However, since puppies do not have hands, they reach out

with their mouths.

Puppy nipping is also a form of social play between puppies and dogs. Puppies and dogs

frequently interact with one another by placing their mouths and paws on each other. When a

puppy grows up with other dogs, he gets very clear signals about what are acceptable and

unacceptable ways to use his mouth and consequently learns how to inhibit his bite in order to

remain socially acceptable. However, since human skin is more fragile than a dog’s fur-covered

skin, puppies and dogs must learn that they cannot interact with us the way they interact with

other dogs. Puppies and dogs must be taught alternative ways to greet, socialize, and play with

their human companions. Most young, untrained puppies engage in this type of friendly nipping

and mouthing behavior.


A small percentage of puppies and dogs engage in serious nipping and mouthing behaviors as

a way of saying “No, I don’t think so!” to anyone trying to make them do something they do not

want to. For example, let’s say one of your clients has a ten-month-old Saint Bernard who grabs

his owner’s arm with his mouth when the owner takes hold of the dog’s collar and attempts to

remove him from the couch. This would be considered a serious mouthing problem. Typically,

this behavior would indicate that this puppy may be testing or even exerting his perceived

dominance and/or territoriality. This may also be an indicator that the puppy is living in an

environment where the expectations and consequences of his behavior are inconsistent. If you

determine that a puppy is engaging in serious nipping or mouthing, you should encourage the

owner to follow the instructions in the Leadership Exercises outlined in the Learning Theory


stage. If the owner simply uses some typical anti-nipping and mouthing techniques and does

not correct her relationship with her puppy, the puppy may respond aggressively. Once the

relationship is addressed, the guidelines outlined in this section can be implemented. If you

determine that the puppy only engages in friendly nipping and mouthing, you may begin

treatment immediately.

Treatment Plan for Resolving Nipping and Mouthing There are four components that need to be addressed when treating nipping and mouthing

behaviors.


• Management of the Problem and Setting the Dog Up to Succeed

• Consequences for Nipping and Mouthing

• Consistency in Dealing With Nipping and Mouthing

These four components make up the Treatment Plan. All four components need to be

addressed in order to eliminate or curtail the behavior. You will notice that some of the

information provided could fall into multiple categories, such as Positive Reinforcement of

Alternate Behaviors or Management of the Problem. However, we have placed them in the

most prominent category for ease of instruction.

Examples - How to Use the Treatment Plan When Addressing Inappropriate Puppy Nipping

and Mouthing


In this next section, we will address the common situations in which you will be asked to curtail or

eliminate inappropriate puppy nipping and mouthing. You will notice that similar and sometimes

identical methods are recommended even though the situation is different. This is due to the

fact that the stimulus for the nipping and mouthing is the same. Most puppy owners are already

familiar with the situations that provoke their puppy to nip. As an ABC Certified Dog Trainer, you

must help the owner understand that being prepared for these situations will assist in solving

the problem. You should also help owners set themselves and their puppy up to succeed by

teaching them to be equipped with some anti-nipping tools before they work with the puppy.


Nipping During Petting

Positive Reinforcement of Alternate Behaviors Petting is often viewed by puppies as an invitation to play, which to a puppy often means

nipping and mouthing. It is your job to find a way to help the puppy understand that petting is

not an invitation to play. Here are some examples of ways to positively reinforce alternative

behaviors to nipping and mouthing.

Example - Pet the Puppy When He is Calm Instruct the owners to give the majority of their attention to the puppy when the puppy is

calm or preoccupied chewing a toy. By instructing the owner to pet the puppy when he is

least likely to react by nipping and mouthing, the owners can positively reinforce the

absence of the nipping and mouthing behavior during petting. This will also help to

develop the puppy's impulse control.

Example - Teach an Alternate Behavior


Teach the puppy a rewarding alternate behavior to offer whenever he is being petted.

Begin by putting about 10 pea-sized treats in the hand opposite from the one that you

will use to pet the puppy. Sit on a chair near the puppy. Now reach over and pet the

puppy one time. Before the puppy begins to nip, immediately present your baited hand

to the puppy and food lure his attention away from the hand you just petted him with. As

the puppy is turning his head away from the petting hand to follow your baited hand, give

the conditioned reinforcer and unconditioned reinforcer. It will not take long for the

puppy to begin responding to being petted by looking at the hand that is not petting him.

Once he does, reward him with a treat or a toy. Gradually increase the amount of time

you spend petting the puppy before offering the treat or toy. This exercise teaches the

puppy an alternative response to being petted. In addition, most puppies will begin to

find being petted a rewarding experience and not an invitation for nipping and mouthing.


Example – Practice Basic Obedience Exercises Practicing basic obedience exercises like Sit-Stay and Down-Stay around distractions

will teach the puppy to focus on you and develop some impulse control. It is important to

do the most practice around the very distractions and activities you know encourage the

puppy to nip. This type of practice will teach him that he does not have to react when

people move, and that he will be rewarded with treats and praise for not reacting.

Example - Reward Alternate Behavior Make it a point to pet the puppy whenever he is tired. A tired puppy is much less likely

to nip.

Management of the Problem and Setting the Dog up to Succeed Managing the puppy’s interactions with everyone is critical when treating nipping and mouthing

behavior. Every owner should be educated about the importance of not only managing their own

interactions with the puppy, but also the interactions of other people with the puppy. Teach the

owner that an ounce of prevention is truly worth a pound of cure when managing puppy nipping.

Example – Be Prepared Be prepared before you attempt to pet the puppy. Understand that it is only natural for a

puppy to respond by nipping when you attempt to pet him and that it is your job as a

trainer to teach the owner techniques to redirect the nipping and mouthing behavior so

the puppy can be positively reinforced for not nipping.

Example – Avoid Games That Encourage Nipping Advise the puppy owner to avoid tug-of-war type games as this can potentially

encourage puppy nipping as well as other problems such as aggression. Avoid any type

of games or interaction that involves play-slapping and roughhousing. If owners play

roughly with their puppy, which includes wrestling and vigorous petting, the puppy will be

far more likely to nip and mouth them.

Example – Provide Sufficient Exercise


Exercise, Exercise, Exercise. The importance of exercise cannot be overstated. Make

sure young, active puppies get plenty of exercise like running and walking daily. Ideally,


the owner should try to exercise her puppy before she attempts to pet him or engage in

other forms of interaction which are likely to prompt nipping. Exercise is probably one of

the most effective problem-solving tools a trainer can recommend to an owner. A puppy

who is bored or gets insufficient exercise will generally be labeled overactive and

rambunctious by his owner. Remind the owner that a tired puppy is a good puppy and

that providing her puppy with more mental and physical stimulation helps with managing

and resolving unwanted behaviors.

Example - Use Toys to Redirect the Puppy

Instruct new puppy owners to always have at least

two toys and/or treats on-hand before they begin

interacting with their puppy. Teach owners that if

they do not bring toys or treats with them when

interacting with a young puppy, the puppy may

assume their hands, arms, pants and shoes are the

toys. By using toys and treats, owners will be able to redirect the puppy's attention onto

a new toy the instant the puppy gets bored and begins nipping and mouthing his owners.

Consequences for Nipping and Mouthing

The following examples of consequences for treating a nippy puppy can be used for all

situations, including petting, playtime and greetings. When reading the Treatment Plans for

nipping during playtime and greetings later in this section, you will find references to some of

the consequences listed below.

When treating a dog or puppy who is nipping and mouthing, it is important to remember that the

more you escalate the situation by yelling or giving physical corrections, the more the nipping

behavior may escalate. As a general rule, puppies will react in the manner and intensity in

which you react to them. In the absence of another dog for the puppy to emulate, in a limited

manner, the puppy will learn how to react to the world by emulating how you react to him.



Example - Use a Chewing Deterrent Sometimes it is helpful for owners to spray their hands with a product made to deter

puppies from chewing before they attempt to pet a nippy puppy. This way, the owner’s

skin will taste bad when the puppy puts his mouth on it, which should cause him to avoid

doing it again. Any local pet store will have a selection of these types of products.

Example - Remove the Opportunity to Earn a Reward This is an example of removing a food treat (i.e., negative punishment) when a puppy

nips at hands. This consequence is very effective when working with a puppy who is

food motivated.

1. Instruct the puppy owner to cut up a generous supply of tiny treats. Each treat should

be approximately half the size of a thumb nail. Instruct them to put five of these

treats in the opposite hand she will pet the puppy with.

2. Ask the owner to sit on a chair. Now, have the owner present her baited, closed

hand to the puppy by placing it directly in front of the puppy’s nose. If he sniffs or

nuzzles the hand (both of which are appropriate), have the owner give the

conditioned reinforcer and immediately dispense one treat as the unconditioned

reinforcer.

If the puppy does not sniff or nuzzle the baited hand and opts to put his mouth on the

owner’s hand, the owner must immediately give the No Reward Marker and abruptly

stand straight up, holding the baited hand over her head. The puppy will either jump

for the treat or just stand there wondering what he did wrong. If the puppy jumps up

for the treat, the owner should ignore him until he stops jumping and sits back down.

Have the owner present the baited hand again and repeat the process. If the puppy

just stands there, instruct the owner to ignore him for two seconds, present the

baited hand again and repeat the process.

Once the puppy learns that putting his mouth or teeth on human skin means he does

not get a treat, the added stimulus of petting may be introduced.


An example of one successful interaction might go something like this: present a baited

hand to the puppy, the puppy sniffs or nuzzles the hand, pet the puppy with the non-


baited hand by stroking his head and neck one time. Then, give the conditioned

reinforcer followed by the unconditioned reinforcer for not putting his mouth or teeth on

skin.

Have the owner gradually increase the number of times she pets the puppy before giving

the conditioned reinforcer and unconditioned reinforcer. Make certain to teach the

owner to progress at a rate that allows the puppy to remain focused on the baited hand

while being petted. Begin by replacing the treat with the puppy’s favorite toy once the

puppy will automatically focus on the baited hand when being petted for at least five

seconds.

Example - Remove All Attention (Shunning) This is an example of freezing and removing all attention as a consequence to nipping.

ABC calls this correction technique “shunning.” This correction for nipping works very

well on puppies who really like human interaction, are high in social drive and seem to

be looking for ways to touch and please their owners. Examples of this might be: a

puppy who follows people from room to room, a puppy who does not walk away after

you stop petting him, a puppy who leans against people while sitting near them, and a

puppy who is sensitive to fluctuations in voice - both excited and firm.

In order for this technique to be effective, the person being nipped must freeze the

instant the puppy’s mouth touches her skin. It is important that the owner does not wait

until the puppy is actually nipping or mouthing the skin to interrupt the behavior. The

owner should “freeze” each and every time the puppy touches her skin with an open

mouth. The owner must learn not to pull her hand or arm out of the puppy’s mouth. She

may wear gloves if necessary. Instruct the owner not to flinch or jerk as this action can

be perceived as playful by a puppy. This is very important and may take a little practice

on the part of some dog owners, since it is a natural reaction to pull away when nipped.


After two seconds of no nipping, have the owner gently and calmly try petting the puppy

again. If the puppy starts to nip again, have her repeat the process. If after two

attempts this technique does not noticeably decrease the nipping, instruct the owner to

abruptly walk away from the puppy. She should not have any interaction with the puppy

at all and, if necessary, she should leave the room altogether. This shunning treatment


will send a powerful message to most puppies, especially those with a high social drive.

Since dogs are pack animals, they will strive to be accepted by the pack. If you and/or

the owner are consistent in shunning a puppy because of unacceptable behavior, the

puppy will learn to discontinue that behavior in favor of one that is acceptable and

results in him receiving the attention he desires. The message we want the puppy to

learn is, “People will not interact with me when I put my mouth on them.” The owner

should not tolerate or continue to pet a nippy puppy even if he is tiny and the bites do not

hurt.

Some puppies are completely oblivious to the shunning treatment. If this is the case,

other techniques should be considered. Some puppies, whose temperament could be

classified as independent, bossy or dominant, may even escalate the nipping behavior to

demand attention from the owner. This is to be expected from this temperament type.

Be consistent and work alternate methods as well, such as removing the opportunity to

earn a reward. In addition, recommend that the owner concentrates on becoming an

effective leader following the Leadership Exercises listed in the Learning Theory stage.

Consistently and correctly practicing the examples above for approximately two weeks

will typically cure even the nippiest puppy.

Example – Use a Startle Technique

Loud noises to interrupt unwanted puppy nipping can also be used as a consequence.

Try and have the owner try making a loud “yikes” sound whenever the puppy puts his

mouth or teeth on your or the owner’s skin. The “yikes” noise should not make the puppy

fearful but should be loud enough to immediately make the puppy let go of and possibly

even back away from you or the owner. The puppy should be wondering “what the heck

was that?” Some trainers believe this technique imitates the communication between

two puppies when one puppy is too rough; however, it does not work on all puppies. If

this technique does not noticeably decrease the nipping behavior, try another technique.

Consistency in Dealing With Nipping and Mouthing


If the owner does not consistently adhere to the Treatment Plan, a consistent response cannot

be expected. In addition, if the owner consistently follows the Treatment Plan with her own

interactions with the puppy but other family members do not, the puppy can quickly learn to

discriminate who to nip and who not to nip. For example, the puppy may think “it is no fun



nipping mom because she just leaves the room every single time I try, but the kids are a blast

because they jump up and down and scream whenever I nip at them.” This intermittent

reinforcement can actually strengthen the behavior as it may teach the puppy to be more

persistent. In summary, provide everyone who interacts with the puppy with the tools to

reinforce the appropriate behavior, manage their interactions with the puppy, and deliver

appropriate consequences for lapses.


Nipping at Clothing

Positive Reinforcement of Alternate Behaviors The positive reinforcement examples for treating puppy nipping when petting outlined in

Situation #1 can also be used when treating puppy nipping during playtime.

Example – Pet the Puppy When He is Calm Instruct the owners to give the majority of their attention to the puppy when the puppy is

calm or preoccupied chewing a toy. Please see “Example – Pet the Puppy When he is

Calm” in Situation #1 for more details.

Example – Play Fetch Teach the owners acceptable substitute games to play with their puppy that do not

include nipping and mouthing. This way they can reinforce the appropriate play behavior

each time they wish to play with their puppy. A great game for owners to play with their

puppy or dog is the fetch game. Refer to the “Fetch Cue” in the Basic Obedience Cues

stage for step-by-step instructions.

Example – Play Hide-and-Seek Recommend that the owners teach their puppy to play hide-and-seek. Refer to the

“Hide-andSeek” game detailed in the “Come Cue” section of the Basic Obedience Cues

stage for step-by-step instructions. In this game, the puppy is encouraged to find the

owner by her hiding and calling his name. The owner should avoid getting the puppy too

excited and cease the game the instant the puppy starts to nip.



Example – Incorporate Obedience Exercises During Playtime Familiar obedience exercises should be incorporated into every playtime. These

exercises should be easy for the puppy so that he can be rewarded with more play time

for his successes. Incorporating known obedience cues like Sits and Downs into

playtime is a great way to make obedience fun for the puppy. It will also help keep the

puppy from getting overly excited.

Management of the Problem and Setting the Dog up to Succeed Managing everyone’s playtime behavior is critical to the success of the Treatment Plan.

Example – Designate Appropriate Play Areas Suggest that owners select a couple of areas around their home where they will typically

play with their puppy. A few examples might be the hallway, the garage, or the side

yard. In general, it is problematic to select any area where the family spends a lot of time

relaxing, sleeping, watching TV or eating. Selecting these areas may set the puppy up to

fail because the puppy will undoubtedly have certain expectations in the “play” area

when the owner often just wants to relax there and watch TV.

Example – Designate Appropriate Play Toys Suggest that puppy owners select specific “play” toys. Play toys are not chew toys or

toys that are left out all the time. These are toys that are only brought out for playtime.

Some proper play toys for puppies can be found at almost any local pet store. Consider

hard rubber balls or bones that are specifically designed for fetching. Stay away from

toys made of fabric, as this may encourage a puppy to chew other things made of fabric.

Example – Be Prepared for Playtime


Advise puppy owners to be prepared before they play with their puppy. Instruct new

puppy owners to play with their puppy in the “play” area with the “play” toys and always

have treats on hand. Help puppy owners understand that if they do not bring toys to the

game, the puppy will assume their hands and arms are the toys. Using several toys and

treats during playtime will give owners the ability to redirect the puppy's attention on a

new toy the instant the puppy gets bored and begins nipping and mouthing their skin.


Example – Avoid Games That Encourage Nipping As previously mentioned, advise the puppy owner to avoid tug-of-war type games as this

can potentially encourage puppy nipping as well as other problems such as aggression.

Consequences for Nipping or Mouthing Owners may need to try several different aversion techniques to find the one that is most

appropriate for their puppy. If a particular technique does not work, they should stop using it

and try another. Ideally, after any correction for nipping or mouthing (i.e., shunning, freezing),

the puppy should automatically default to an alternate behavior like licking, nuzzling or backing

away and looking up at his owner for direction. Remember and remind the owner to wait long

enough after the puppy has stopped nipping or mouthing, at least two seconds, before praising

the acceptable alternate behavior. This allows the puppy to understand that the praise he is

receiving is for the licking or nuzzling, not the nipping he just engaged in.

Example – Use a Chewing Deterrent Sometimes it is helpful for owners to spray their hands with a product made to deter

puppies from chewing. This way, the owner’s skin will taste bad when the puppy puts his

mouth on it. Make sure you instruct your clients to pre-treat hands and feet just prior to

any play period with a nippy puppy.

Example – Remove All Attention (Shunning) Have the owners use the “shunning” technique each time the puppy puts his mouth on

them. Since the puppy’s motivation for nipping is typically to play or to greet, both of

which indicate a desire for interaction, most puppies will quickly learn that he loses his

playmates when he puts his mouth on them.

Example – Use a Startle Technique

Using loud noises to interrupt unwanted puppy nipping can also be used during playtime.

Please refer to the explanation provided under “Consequences” for Situation #1 if you

need to refresh your memory.



Example – Use a Leash and Head Collar to Redirect the Puppy This consequence involves removing the puppy’s mouth from the owner’s skin using a

leash and head collar. To begin, have the owner put the puppy on a leash and head

collar before having any interaction with him. Make sure the puppy is desensitized to

both so that they do not inhibit his playing. Allow the puppy to drag the leash around

while the owner plays with him and his toys. Whenever the puppy’s mouth makes

contact with the owner’s skin, she should immediately grab the leash and quickly pull the

puppy’s head away from her. Be careful; do not allow the owner to jerk the leash in any

fashion that would cause harm. The puppy should respond by wondering, “what

happened?” Now, have the owner use the leash to keep the puppy away from her for

approximately two seconds or until the puppy noticeably calms down and then relax the

tension on the leash. She may then allow the puppy to begin playing again in an

appropriate manner. If necessary, the procedure should be repeated the instant the

puppy puts his mouth on skin again.

This technique will only work with a head collar as the head collar allows the owner to

hold the puppy’s head (and mouth) away from her. Remember that this correction

requires a head collar because it gives the necessary head and mouth control to

effectively use this technique. If the owner is worried about the puppy chewing the

leash, suggest that she uses a chain link leash.

Consistency in Dealing with Nipping and Mouthing


When treating a nipping or mouthing problem it is important not do anything that may make the

nipping worse or create other problems. Consistently communicating to the puppy that nipping

is unacceptable 100% of the time is critical to eliminating this behavior. Owners who teach their

dogs that nipping and mouthing is acceptable sometimes but not at other times will almost

always have a difficult time eliminating the problem.


Nipping During Greetings

Positive Reinforcement of Alternate Behaviors When you are treating a puppy for inappropriate nipping and mouthing during greetings, it is

critical to pet, praise, and treat the puppy each and every time the puppy is near anyone and not

nipping and mouthing them, especially new people. Refer to Situation #1 and Situation #2 for

other ideas for positively reinforcing alternate behaviors.

Example – Practice Sit-Stay in Locations Where the Nipping Occurs Practice the Sit and Sit-Stay exercises near the front door and in the backyard as well as

in other areas where inappropriate greetings occur. This will enable the owner to praise

non-nipping and mouthing behaviors in places where it has been a problem in the past.

Example – Practice Sit-Stay and Down-Stay with Distractions Basic obedience exercises like Sit-Stay and Down-Stay around distractions will teach

the puppy to focus on the owner and develop some impulse control. This will teach the

puppy that he does not have to react to every movement people make, and that he will

be rewarded with treats and praise for not reacting. It is especially important that the

puppy gets plenty of practice at the front door. Initially, practice should occur at times

when no visitors are present.

Management of the Problem and Setting the Dog up to Succeed Managing everyone’s greeting behavior is critical to the success of the Treatment Plan.

Example – Manage Greetings with New People


The owners should instruct new people the puppy comes into contact with to greet the

puppy calmly so they do not encourage the nipping behavior.


Example – Manage Greetings with Owners at Home Educate the puppy owner about the importance of properly confining her dog while she

is gone. Greetings are much more manageable when a dog is confined and cannot

greet the owner at will. If the owner is not properly confining the dog, there may be other

problems occurring for which the puppy is being punished. These problems may include

lapses in housebreaking, inappropriate chewing, barking, jumping etc. If the puppy is

used to the owner coming home and immediately scolding or spanking him, he may be

reacting aggressively or fearfully toward the owner. Counsel the owner again of the

necessity of proper confinement while she is gone. Remind the owner that punishment

after the fact is never effective and physical punishment at any time is ineffective as well

as unnecessary.

Example – Use a Chewing Deterrent Since most greetings are initiated by the owner (i.e., the owner opens the front door, the

owner opens the crate door, the owner goes into the backyard), the owner should be

prepared for the nipping behavior before entering the situation. Instruct the owner to

spray her hands, feet, and clothes with a chewing deterrent before greeting the puppy

whenever possible.

Example – Use Toys to Redirect the Puppy The owner should greet her very-excited puppy with at least two toys in-hand. Make sure

the owner knows that she should never roughhouse with the puppy by pushing or play-

slapping him as it only encourages nipping and mouthing.

Example – Manage Greetings with Guests at Home


When greeting guests at the front door with a puppy or dog, management is critical. Until

the puppy has learned to greet people properly, he should be put on a leash and head

collar before he greets new people. Many clients will object based on the premise that

they cannot allow the puppy to wear a leash all the time and do not always know when

guests will arrive. Recommend that the owner hangs a leash with the head collar

attached to it by the front door so that when guests arrive, the owner can instantly leash

the puppy before opening the door. The owner should then invite the guest into her

home, encouraging the guest to keep her hands low and slow. Provided the puppy does

not start nipping and mouthing, he should be praised by both the owner and guest.


Anyone who interacts with the puppy should be taught how to greet him properly so as

not to encourage mouthing or nipping behaviors. Hands should be kept slow and low

and a treat held in one hand can be used to focus the puppy’s attention while he is being

petted gently with the other hand. This will teach the puppy to associate positive things

with non-nipping behavior.

As an ABC Certified Dog Trainer, you must help the owner understand that until her

puppy learns to properly greet his owners and immediate family members, it is unlikely

he will greet guests in a proper fashion.

Consequences for Nipping and Mouthing

Example – Prevent Contact during Greetings As previously stated, puppies who greet guests by nipping should be put on a leash and

head collar prior to greetings. This way, the owner can control the situation and prevent

any nipping during greetings. However, if there is a lapse in management, the owner

should ask the guest to immediately back away from the puppy. The puppy should be

kept away from the guest for a full two seconds or until the puppy is visibly calmer and

then the tension on the leash may be released. The owner can then allow the guest to

re-approach the puppy and try it again. If these suggestions do not work, select a

different method that is appropriate for the puppy and situation. Use the various

examples that have been detailed throughout this section on nipping and mouthing.

Consistency in Dealing with Nipping and Mouthing Most guests will not know what to do with a nippy puppy and will probably be unaware that they

are encouraging the behavior by petting him as he is nipping and mouthing them. The owner

should take control of all situations where the puppy is greeting other people. This allows the

puppy to receive a clear, consistent message that nipping is not acceptable.



How to Use the Clicker to Help Eliminate Puppy Nipping

The following article was written for Animal Behavior College by Ms. Kellyann Payne. The

information provided explains how to use clicker training techniques to help eliminate puppy

nipping.


Using the Clicker to Help Eliminate Puppy Nipping By Kellyann Payne

Have you ever watched two puppies play together? They wrestle back and forth using their whole bodies - including their mouths. When one puppy gets too rough the other puppy will squeal and the play stops for a brief moment before they resume. These puppies are learning bite inhibition or how gentle they need to be when using their mouths. When puppies play with people those same sharp puppy teeth can really hurt so you need to teach them the same lesson they would learn when playing with another pup. After all, puppies want to use their mouths when they play. That is how they explore and learn about their environment. Puppies can also be nippy while they are teething. No matter the reason though, when a puppy’s teeth make contact with your skin it can really hurt so here are some simple techniques you can use to minimize puppy nipping. To prevent nipping:

• Try to avoid getting your puppy overly excited during playtime and avoid using your hands during play.

• Use toys to direct his play. Have plenty of appropriate items around for your puppy to

put in his mouth. Bigger toys are often better than smaller toys. Larger toys will make it easier for the puppy to avoid making any contact with your skin or latching on to your clothing while the two of you play. Another helpful hint - switch out your puppy's toys every few days. This will keep them fun and interesting.

• Keep the playtime with your puppy at a manageable level too. For example, if you

know that after 7 minutes of play he starts to get too excited and nippy, cut your play sessions down to 4 minutes. As your puppy matures you should be able to play with him for longer periods of time. If you find your puppy has already reached a limit where he's just out of control - give him a gentle time out in a designated area – like an x-pen or a sectioned off room. You can even calmly place him in his crate. After a couple of minutes he should settle down and you can let him out.

• Make sure that your puppy gets an appropriate amount of exercise. This is another

way to help prevent and minimize nipping. Of course going for a walk is good exercise but change it up too. Some other fun activities that you can do are fetch, have a treasure hunt for stuffed chew toys and give your puppy interactive toys or doggie puzzles.



Using the Clicker to Help Eliminate Puppy Nipping (continued) By Kellyann Payne

Of course these ideas will help manage and prevent nipping but that is only half of what you can do. The next step is teaching and rewarding your puppy for using his mouth appropriately. By the same token you are going to remove all attention if his teeth touch your skin or if he grabs at your clothing Teach your puppy to be gentle Set aside time to teach your puppy to be gentle. Start by placing a small, pea sized treat in the palm of your hand and make a fist. Place your fist in front of your puppy. If he sniffs, licks, bumps your fist with his nose, does nothing or better yet sits – click and open your hand for the treat. Any response other than nipping is a clickable behavior right now. By making the choice to sniff rather than grab or nip he wins the reward. Repeat this behavior 5 times and take a break. Now if he nips when you first present your fist just quickly pull your hand away. Try again. Your puppy will quickly figure out that the yummy treat and your hand abruptly go away when he nips. Your puppy will learn that waiting politely or a gentle touch is what will work to get the treat. Once your puppy seems to grasp what you are teaching, try waving your fist around a bit and wait for that same calm response. Always click and treat for calm responses. Add some variety to help generalize the behavior by mixing up the speed and distance of your fist from your puppy’s face. You can up the ante by replacing your fist and treat with toys or a bone. Again click and reward for calm responses and remove the object if your puppy gets nippy. Keep these play sessions short, just a few minutes and try to practice multiple times per day. You will have more success practicing for four 5 minute play sessions than one 20 minute play session. So to quickly recap - prepare with toys, treats and your clicker. Prevent nipping by keeping play sessions short. Also, make sure he has an ample supply of toys that he can explore using his mouth. Reward good play behavior with lots of attention, toys and treats. If he nips take away his favorite reward- your attention. Lastly, while you're playing with your puppy you should always encourage and reward him for playing with toys and bones. Drop It & Get It Two good complimentary behaviors to help teach a puppy how to play appropriately with their mouths are “Drop It” and “Get It”. When training these behaviors only use objects that you want your puppy to have in their mouth. There is no benefit to allowing them to rehearse having the “wrong” things in their mouth. “Drop It” There are a number of ways to teach a dog to “drop it”. You can start by teaching a “trade out” or “trade up” method. We’ll start with a favorite toy, such as a soft squeaky toy.




1. Have 2 soft squeaky toys available as well as a supply of treats and your clicker. 2. Start to play with the first toy. Give it a toss to engage your puppy a bit. 3. Next, you need to stop playing and be still.

- If your puppy drops the toy click and give a treat. Then start playing again. - If you puppy does not drop the toy, do not try to wrestle the toy away. Wait a few seconds. If he still doesn’t drop the toy, show him the other toy. He will likely drop the first toy. As soon as he does click and throw toy #2.

4. After 5 successful drops its time to add your cue “drop it”. You should say “drop it” in the instant before the actually drops the toy, click and reward.

5. Continue to practice for a few days and then start to switch up the objects that he is dropping for you. You want to help your puppy generalize “drop it” to a menagerie of other objects such as balls, bones and other toys.

With enough repetitions he should begin to understand what “drop it” means and be able to

generalize the behavior to objects that you may not want him to have. “Get It” “Get it” is a simple counterpart to “drop it”. When you toss the toy simply say “get it”. This can be very helpful for helping manage both a nippy puppy and for helping with polite greetings.

1. Start with your puppy’s favorite toy and have your clicker and treats handy. 2. Toss the toy. As you toss the toy say “get it”.

• Most puppies will chase the toy. As soon as the puppy picks up the toy click and reward.

• If you are working with a puppy who isn’t very interested in toys, don’t worry. This behavior can help teach them to enjoy play time with toys. For this type of puppy you can click and reward for even a step in the direction the toy at first. As the puppy gets closer and closer to the toy click and reward for every successful step until he is not only picking up the toy but also carrying it back to you.

When guests come to visit you can teach the puppy to go and get a toy and bring it to the new friend. This will keep his sharp little teeth occupied and keep your guests’ hands and clothing puppy tooth free. Close Mouth An alternate behavior that you can teach a puppy who seems uninterested in toys is “close mouth”.

1. Have a supply of treats and your clicker handy 2. Play with your puppy. As soon as he gets nippy with your hands say ouch and

abruptly take your hands away. 3. Wait for the moment when your puppy curiously shuts his mouth as if to say “huh?” 4. As soon as he shuts his mouth click and treat.




5. Start to play again and repeat any time your puppy gets nippy. 6. After a few successful repetitions start to say “close mouth” just before you take your

hands away. 7. Click and reward the moment your puppy closes his mouth.

This is another useful behavior to help keep your puppy from nipping at hands. Mouthing is a perfectly natural behavior for puppies. Just like babies, puppies want to explore and learn about their surroundings. However, it's important that you teach your puppy how to control his mouth as well as what is and is not acceptable to put in his mouth. By doing so, you'll help your dog become a well behaved member of your family.



Common Problems Encountered When Treating Nipping and Mouthing

Help! I think my puppy is

possessed. Several times

a day he just goes crazy,

running around and

nipping and mouthing at

anyone or anything that

gets in the way.

ABC affectionately calls these the “puppy crazies.” They are a

common occurrence in puppies under six months of age. The “puppy

crazies” are bursts of uncontrollable energy that last for just a few

minutes and often there is absolutely nothing an owner can do to

interrupt or extinguish them. Suggest that the owner puts the puppy

outside if at all possible until he calms down. Exercise is the best tool

to use to minimize these outbursts. Puppy crazies typically disappear

completely after a dog is about a year old and most puppy owners

actually miss them when they are gone.

I have tried everything

and nothing is working. I

have to constantly ignore

him; I feel like I do not get

a chance to give him

attention at all.

Trainers will usually get this response from an owner who does not

understand what positive reinforcement training is. These owners

typically think that they should ignore the puppy until he does

something correct and then reward him. The owner is probably not

managing the problem or rewarding alternate behaviors. ABC

Certified Dog Trainers should explain (over and over again if

necessary) the importance of positive reinforcement training and

managing the puppy’s behavior. In this situation, the puppy may have

developed a number of new bad habits because the owner has been

letting the puppy run wild while waiting for an opportunity to praise

him.

The puppy usually does

not nip at the adults in

the house, but I cannot

get him to stop nipping at

and/or chasing the

children.

Some working or herding breeds may be exhibiting natural play

behavior toward the children whom they think are puppies too. The

owner should teach the child how to play appropriate games with the

puppy. The owner must not scold or punish the puppy for interacting

with a child as this may cause the puppy to be fearful or resentful

toward children as he grows up. Instead, the owner should practice a

nipping Treatment Plan with the child and the puppy and supervise

every interaction between the two until the puppy has learned that

nipping is unacceptable. Also, the child can be treated with a nontoxic

chewing deterrent product to discourage the dog from putting his

mouth on her.


Common Problems Encountered When Treating Nipping and Mouthing

It is very common for owners to assume that a problem is resolved if

the dog reacts correctly to them. The owners need to understand that

a problem is not resolved until the behavior is extinguished and the

dog reacts properly to all people. Encourage owners to continue to

work with the puppy in those situations where he has not learned the

proper way to interact with people. Remind owners that this is not

accomplished overnight and that they may have to work for a few

weeks to extinguish the behavior.



common questions or difficulties that owners have while trying to teach their puppies not to nip.





Training Tips Patience and Consistency - Explain to your clients that puppy nipping is a normal behavior

and one that will not be eliminated overnight. Remind them that their puppy may have nipped

them and their children hundreds or even thousands of times and to expect that any training

method will be successful after two or three applications is not realistic. It could take several

weeks to curtail a difficult nipping behavior problem. Owners need to be patient, consistent and

practice often. If they are, they will be able to deal with this and all problems over time.

Potential Leadership Issue – If a puppy is extremely nippy and mouthy, it may be an early

indication of dominance behavior and should be treated with Leadership Exercises immediately.

However, very few dogs are born with a truly dominant temperament. Most dogs who are

labeled “dominant” are actually dogs who are forced to assume leadership because there is no

clear leader in his pack. Some are even inadvertently rewarded for their “dominant” behavior.

These dogs will usually give up the leadership role as soon as the owners show that they are

willing to take it and most are relieved not to be in charge anymore.

Potential Dominance Issue - Dogs who are born with a dominant temperament are a different

story altogether. These dogs will continuously challenge the owner’s leadership and will require

the owner to be in control every single day for the rest of the dog’s life. Also, truly dominant

dogs can be difficult (not impossible) to train. These dogs do not necessarily want their owner’s

approval; typically they want their position. In addition, dominant dogs do not react well to

physical punishment. This type of punishment may be construed as a physical challenge to the

dog and a dominant dog may take you up on it. If you diagnose a dog as being truly dominant,

you should avoid confrontational training for any reason. Focus on positive reinforcement

training and leadership exercises to show the dog that the owners are fair leaders and that they

will reward him for obedience. Keep in mind that it may take a longer period of time to

effectively train a dominant dog. Dominant dogs do not naturally take orders from others and

truly dominant dogs must learn to accept and enjoy praise and reward.




Unruly Behavior in the House Most dog owners underestimate their dog's exercise

requirements. Owners who have a dog living out in the

backyard for a good chunk of time often create a vicious

cycle. They would bring their dog in the house if the dog

had good house manners, but because the dog does

not have good manners, they leave him outside. This

makes the dog more excited when brought in, which

causes the client to leave him out more, etc. I am sure

you get the picture. Additionally, some dog owners

assume that because their dog is fairly energetic, he is

going to get all the exercise he needs playing in the

backyard during the day when they are at work. This is usually not true. In addition, as dogs get a

bit older, they will often have a very human attitude toward exercise – you know the old joke,

"whenever I feel like exercising, I lay down until the feeling passes." Often the only stimulus that will

cause dogs to become active is bringing them into a new situation that excites them, like coming

into the house. Because of this, you must teach your clients that they need to help their dogs get a

sufficient amount of exercise by walking them or playing fetch with them daily, in order to

successfully deal with this problem.

Treatment Plan for Unruly Behavior in the House There are four components that need to be addressed when treating unruly house behavior.



• Consequences for Unruly Behavior in the House

• Consistency in Dealing with Unruly Behavior in the House

These four components are called the Treatment Plan. All components need to be addressed

in order to eliminate the problem. You will notice that some of the information provided could fall

into multiple categories, such as Positive Reinforcement of Alternate Behaviors or Management.

However, we have placed them in the most prominent category for ease of instruction.


Positive Reinforcement of Alternate Behaviors One of the things an ABC Certified Dog Trainer should teach dog owners is to avoid inadvertently

reinforcing inappropriate behaviors. This is one of the reasons why putting a dog on a leash and

collar before bringing him into the house is such a good idea. Consider what typically happens to

dog owners who bring their dog into the house without a leash on after he has been in the backyard

most of the day. The dog usually crashes through the house like a bull in a china shop and the

owner simply waits and hopes for the dog to calm down. Or, even worse, the owner chases after

the dog, which then encourages the dog to run and the whole situation becomes a big game. Even

though the owner is not deliberately positively reinforcing this behavior, she is doing it

unintentionally. The dog’s perception is, "Wow, they let me in the house and then they chased me

all over the place. This is great fun! I need to make sure I act like this the next time they let me in

the house.”

Example – Behavior Equals Results Dogs need to understand that their behavior will produce specific results. The goal is to help

the dog understand which exact behavior he can offer to produce the results he is looking

for. For example, let’s say you are working with a dog who really enjoys attention and

petting from his human family members. By teaching the dog owners to pay attention to

their dog only when he is exhibiting calm behavior, you will help the dog understand that

calm behavior produces the results he is looking for. This does not mean that the owners

should ignore the dog most of the day and wait for the dog to offer calm behavior. It means

that owners should be instructed to use management exercises (see below) to make sure

the dog is not able to offer unruly house behavior. This gives the owners a chance to

positively reinforce the alternate behavior, which in this case is being calm.

Only by understanding how to avoid reinforcing the wrong behavior (by managing the dog’s

environment, teaching the dog structured games such as fetch and providing the proper amount of

exercise the dog requires) will you be able to successfully treat this behavioral problem.

Management of the Problem and Setting the Dog up to Succeed The best way to manage a dog’s unruly house behavior is to prevent it from happening in the first

place.



Example – Provide Sufficient Exercise Be sure the dog has sufficient exercise on a regular basis. A favorite dog trainer saying is

“a tired dog is a good dog.”

Example – Use a Leash and Head Collar in the House To begin teaching a dog to come in the house calmly, the owner will need to put the dog on

a leash and head collar before bringing him into the house, every single time. This bears

repeating. This must be done every single time. Even if the dog only goes outside for a few

minutes, he must wear the head collar and leash for one hour (although that seems a bit

excessive). You cannot stress enough that the owner must be consistent. If the dog has a

head collar and leash on every time he enters the house, the possibility of him misbehaving

can potentially be eliminated.

Once the dog is wearing his leash and head collar, ask the owner to walk the dog through

the house. Suggest that the owner allows the dog to sniff and walk around each room that

she plans on giving him access to. It is OK if the dog walks in front of, to the side of, or in

back of the owner, as long as he is not trying to drag the owner around. If the dog tries to

drag anyone through the house, the person handling him should stop walking abruptly. Tell

the owner to coax the dog to come back toward her by luring him with food treats. Now

have the owner treat and praise the dog once he gets to her. Have her wait a second or

two and begin touring the house again. This process should be repeated until the dog has

successfully toured the entire house. This exercise allows dog owners to “teach” their dogs

acceptable behavior in each and every room in the house. It also allows dog owners to

practice proactive dog training rather than reactive dog training.


After the initial tour, the dog should be taken to a central area (i.e., the family room) and

safely tied to a suitable object such as a table leg or the leg at the end of a couch. Either a

head collar or buckle collar should be used; if the dog chews on the leash, it should either

be soaked with a chewing deterrent or a chain-link leash should be used. Make sure the

selected resting place for the dog that is in a corner of the room so everyone can move

about freely without being forced to interact with the dog. This is important so the dog does

not have the ability to inappropriately react (i.e., jumping up on people, chasing the kids,

chasing the cat) to routine family movement in the house. The dog will eventually become

desensitized to household noises and activities and develop the ability to remain calm in the


house.

The dog should be given a comfortable pad to lie on and a nice chew toy. The owners

should give him food rewards and plenty of attention (i.e., petting) whenever he is quiet.

Extra rewards may be given when the dog is calm even when something exciting happens

around him. For example, if the dog is lying calmly, chewing a bone when suddenly the kids

come running into the room and he still remains “reasonably calm”, the owner should praise

him. "Reasonably calm" means he may look up or even stand up, but as long as he does

not start barking, jumping, or generally going crazy (remember, he is tied to something), the

owner may calmly praise him. If the dog does react inappropriately (i.e., barking), it is best

for the owner to completely ignore him. The owner should then wait for the next episode of

calm behavior and praise and treat lavishly.

Consequences for Unruly Behavior in the House For lapses in management, the following consequences may be considered.

Example – No Reward Marker and Redirecting the Dog If at any time during the tour of the house the dog does something the owner considers

inappropriate house behavior, the owner should give the No Reward Marker (i.e., “No”) and

immediately interrupt the behavior. For example: when touring the bathroom the dog spots

the bathroom trash can and begins moving toward it. Since digging in the bathroom trash

can is inappropriate house behavior, the owner must immediately give the No Reward

Marker and if the dog does not immediately back away from the trash can, gently lead the

dog away from the trash can. This will be easy to do when using a leash and head collar.

Next, the owner should relax the leash and allow the dog to decide whether he should re-

approach the trash can or avoid it. If the dog opts to avoid the trashcan, the owner must

give the conditioned reinforcer followed by the unconditioned reinforcer (i.e., food, petting or

simply continuing the tour). If the dog opts to re-approach the trashcan, the above process

must be repeated until the dog chooses to avoid the trashcan.


Eventually, the house tour and going to a resting place will be an expected routine for the dog

whenever he comes into the house. With continued practice, the owner will begin to notice that the

dog is visibly calmer in his resting place after a much shorter period of time and he is reacting less

and less to the activities and noises in the house. Once this begins to happen, the owner can begin


allowing the dog small amounts of freedom by not tethering him to his resting place the entire time

he is in the house. However, it is important to allow the dog to drag the leash around with him

during his free time. For safety purposes, make sure the dog is being monitored the entire time he

is dragging around his leash. Monitoring also gives the owner an advantage in interrupting any

inappropriate behaviors should they occur. The owner should be instructed to immediately tether

the dog back to his resting place if any inappropriate behavior occurs.

If an owner is continuously giving the dog a No Reward Marker during the tour, try the exercise

again after the dog is thoroughly exercised. This gives the owner the opportunity to praise good

house manners and have a successful training session. The owner should be encouraged to

consider playing fetch with the dog for 20 minutes before attempting to bring him in again.

Consistency in Dealing with Unruly Behavior in the House Consistency is critical when working to curtail or eliminate unruly house behavior. A good trainer

must help his or her clients understand that the majority of behaviors we humans label

“problems” (i.e., jumping, chewing, digging, nipping, unruly behavior in the house) are self-

rewarding behaviors for the dog. Simply put, most dogs truly enjoy engaging in these “problem”

behaviors and will not miss an opportunity to partake in them. It is for this reason that

consistency plays such a crucial role in treating the behavior.

Important Note: The Treatment Plan must be followed consistently in order to achieve success. Expect to adhere to the Treatment Plan for several weeks or, in some cases, several months before gradually increasing the amount of freedom the dog is offered. Freedom is an earned privilege.



Common Problems Encountered When Treating Unruly House Behavior Every time I bring the dog

in the house he goes wild,

running around the living

room, jumping on people

and grabbing forbidden

objects.

This issue actually encompasses three problems: jumping,

inappropriate chewing and unruly house behavior. All of these

problems should be worked on in addition to the unruly house

behavior.

Exercise, exercise, exercise! This may be a case of the owners

thinking that because they have decided to train the dog, the dog

should be good. Unfortunately, they have neglected to exercise the

dog before training sessions.

A dog who is on a leash cannot run wild around the house. Some

owners will try to take the easy way out or are so excited to have the

dog in the house that they rush the training process. Instruct the

owner to be patient, give the dog plenty of exercise and progress at

the dog’s pace.



common questions or challenges that owners have while treating unruly house behavior. Keep

in mind that every answer you give to an owner should be phrased in a manner that does not

offend or chastise the owner. Offending the owner will not help the dog and may even earn you

a bad reputation.



Begging Most dogs who beg for food from the table have owners who

have inadvertently created this behavior by feeding their dog from

the table. To resolve this problem, the owners will need to be

consistent in managing the begging behavior, positively

reinforcing the non-begging behavior and effectively interrupting

the dog when he engages in the inappropriate behavior.

Some dominant dogs may actually be demanding food from the owner or from other family

members. This is considered “serious” begging and should be addressed first by establishing a

proper relationship with the dog. Typically, this dog would be living in an environment that

promotes his dominance and territoriality and has an owner who he perceives as subservient. If

you determine that the dog is engaging in serious begging (demanding the owner’s food), you

should encourage the owner to re-rank the dog using the Leadership Exercises outlined in the

Learning Theory stage and confine the dog in a crate or another room during mealtimes. If the

owners simply use some typical anti-begging techniques and do not correct their relationship

with their dog, the dog may respond aggressively to them, their children or guests. Once the

relationship is addressed, the exercises outlined in this section can be implemented. If you

determine that the dog only engages in begging that is non-threatening in nature, you may

begin treatment of the problem immediately.

Treatment Plan for Begging There are four components that need to be addressed when treating begging.



• Consequences for Begging

• Consistency in Dealing with Begging

These four components are called the Treatment Plan. All components need to be addressed

in order to eliminate the problem. You will notice that some of the information provided could fall




Positive Reinforcement of Alternate Behaviors Instruct the dog owners to develop a good Down-Stay in a spot they would like the dog to stay

in during normal meal times. The spot should be visible to the owners from the table where

meals are typically eaten and have a place to tether the dog in case he breaks the stay. Some

suggestions might be the handle of a closed door or a very heavy table leg.

Instruct the owner to begin practicing the Down-Stay in the chosen spot at non-meal times and

with no distractions. Make sure she tethers the dog and practices this for a day or two. During

this time, the owners should frequently go over to the dog to praise, pet and treat. If he tries to

get up (remember, he can't approach the owners because he is tied), the owner should calmly

go over and lure or place the dog back in the down position and leave him. The owner should

not praise the dog until the dog has remained down for at least 10 seconds. Whenever the dog

is doing well and staying down, he should be praised and the owner should sometimes go over

and praise, pet and treat. It should be clear to the dog that any food treats given are not coming

from the table. During actual meal times, the dog should be kept in his crate, dog-run or

backyard until he can handle a mealtime distraction.

After the dog is successful at staying in his spot with routine distractions, have the owners give

him some practice with the normal distractions of a meal. The owners should set the table, sit

down and pretend to have a meal. They should continue going over to the dog intermittently to

praise and pet and should repeat for several days. If the dog deals well with these distractions

and stays down, he is ready to be present during an actual meal. When the dog is down in his

special spot during a meal, the owners should continue to praise and pet occasionally for good

behavior. However, they must avoid giving him food treats during an actual meal.

After a week or so of the dog remaining down during meals, the owner can try taking the leash

off. If the dog gets up, he may need more practice with the leash on. Also, make sure to have

the owner reward the dog frequently enough so he knows he is making the correct decision and

that he is pleasing his owners by staying in that position. If he breaks the down and approaches

the table, the owner should give the No Reward Marker (i.e., “No!") and say "go to your place"

while calmly guiding him back. Consider taking a step or two backward in the training process.


If the owner consistently says "No!" and tells the dog "go to your place" while guiding him back,

the dog will learn to go to his place whenever he is told to do so.


Have the owner gradually decrease the number of times she goes over to the dog to reward

him. The dog should only be fed after the owners have finished eating. ABC believes this gives

the dog a clear message of his place in the family. It is a message that can decrease the

chances of aggression, disobedience and bossiness from the dog.

Management of the Problem and Setting the Dog up to Succeed The simplest way to manage this problem is not to put the dog in a situation where begging is

possible until he has learned an alternate behavior (i.e., Down-Stay). Suggest that the dog owner

puts the dog in a crate, tethers the dog away from the table or puts the dog in the backyard during

meals until that time.

It is critical that the owner understands that she can never again feed the dog while she is eating. If

the dog receives even one scrap of food while the owner or family is eating, he will continue to beg

and may even think that he needs to try harder in order to get the food. If the dog receives nothing

while the owner or family is eating, he will come to realize that begging is not a rewarding behavior

and will stop doing it. Dogs do not engage in unrewarding behavior.

Consequences for Begging If the dog whines or barks while in his crate during meal times, the owner may simply move the

crate out of sight. For exceptionally persistent dogs, owners can try covering the crate with a

blanket or sheet until they are quiet. If the dog whines or barks while tethered during meal

times, he should be moved farther away from the table and, if necessary, put outside. These

things will effectively interrupt and correct the unwanted behavior.

Consistency in Dealing with Begging


Consistency is critical when working to curtail or eliminate begging. An ABC Certified Dog

Trainer must help his or her clients understand that their dogs will be as consistent in offering

the correct behavior as they are in treating the incorrect behavior.


Common Problems Encountered When Treating Begging We tether the dog in his

assigned spot during meal

times and he just barks

and whines the whole

time.

Insufficient Reinforcement – The dog has not received enough

positive reinforcement for being in his spot in a Down-Stay. Suggest

that the owners double the amount of time they are spending on this.

Until the dog can be quiet while tethered in his assigned spot, the dog

should not be placed in his assigned spot during meal times. He

should be tethered at a distance far enough away from the table where

he is able to be quiet, crated or placed in the backyard.

Ignore the Unwanted Behavior – Suggest that the owner ignores the

dog’s barking and whining behavior. This can be effective if the

owner’s patience can outlast the dog’s persistence.

Help the owner understand that begging is a very rewarding behavior

and may take several months to extinguish. Encourage the owner to

be patient.

Inconsistent Training – The owner has possibly been inconsistent in

her training and occasionally feeds the dog table scraps. Remind the

owner that all it takes to reward the dog for begging is for him to get

one single scrap of food every two or three weeks. Remind the owner

that any food the dog receives from the table will reward begging,

even if it is just tiny scraps that the baby drops while having dinner.



common questions or challenges that owners have while trying to teach their dog not to beg.






Stealing Food from Counters Understanding the reason why a dog practices a

behavior is important. In this case, it is fairly

obvious. The dog knows that food is on the

counter, and dogs like to eat. Almost all dogs are

stimulated by the numerous intriguing scents

attached to the various food items that are being

prepared on the counter. So, they are initially

going to jump up on the counter because they are

curious and they want to eat what is up there. Once they are successful at eating something

yummy that they took from the counter, they have learned that stealing food from the counter is very

rewarding. This can become a real problem.

Jumping on counters, especially to steal food, can be dangerous to a dog. There is no guarantee

that the dog is not going to jump up on the counter and get chicken, lamb, pork or some sort of

meat with bones in it that, when ingested, could cause medical problems. There are a whole host of

potential problems attached to the dog eating raw food, especially if it occurs on a semi-regular

basis. Additionally, it is safe to say that most dogs will be far less inclined to want to eat their dog

food if they have had the taste of forbidden fruits like lasagna, ribs, T-bone steak or barbecued

chicken. So, for all of these reasons, it is best to teach the dog not to jump on counters and steal

food.

Treatment Plan for Food Stealing There are four components that need to be addressed when treating food-stealing behavior,

affectionately called “counter surfing” by professional dog trainers.



• Consequences for Food Stealing

• Consistency in Dealing with Food Stealing

These four components are called the Treatment Plan. All four must be addressed in order to

resolve or curtail the problem. You will notice that some of the information provided could fall




Positive Reinforcement of Alternate Behaviors One way to positively reinforce a dog for not stealing food from the counters involves setting up a

situation where food is on the counter and the dog knows it. Have the owner bring the dog into the

kitchen and practice simple known obedience cues like Sit and Sit-Stay near the counter with food

on it. The owner should reward the dog with his favorite unconditioned reinforcers (i.e., treats,

attention, praise) for obeying each cue and not jumping on the counter.

Management of the Problem and Setting the Dog up to Succeed There are thousands of dog owners who will stand at their kitchen counters preparing something to

eat while their dogs hover right behind them. Then, they will arbitrarily take a piece of food off the

counter and immediately hand it to the dog. Dog owners who do this encourage the dog to jump up

on the counter. You should instruct your clients to never feed their dog from the counter and to stop

immediately if they are doing it now. It is also a good idea to recommend that dog owners do not

feed these dogs their meals in the kitchen area.

Instruct dog owners to prevent their dogs from going near the kitchen counters unless the owners

are there to supervise. Putting up a baby gate in the doorway of the kitchen is a good way to

prevent the dog’s access to the kitchen during non-training times or when the owners simply cannot

devote 100% of their attention to the dog’s movement in the house. Owners should be sure that

there is no food accessible on the counter while they are out of the kitchen. Every single time the

dog gets food from the counter, he is rewarded for the behavior. Even if he only finds food on the

counter one time each month, he will continue to check the counter at every opportunity because

there just might be food within his grasp. To successfully manage this problem behavior, the

owners must not leave food of any kind on the counter when they are not in the kitchen.

Consequences for Food Stealing


Since most dogs only steal food from counters when no one is watching, any technique selected for

correcting this behavior must not require the dog owner to be in the room. Make sure that the client

properly booby-traps the counters to ensure that the dog will not be able to get the food off the

counter when he jumps up. This is important since the technique is not going to be effective if the

dog can get the food by jumping up. A proper booby-trap can be made with shaker cans, string and

double-sided tape. (A shaker can may be a soda can containing 20 pennies with the top completely


secured with tape). The owner should start by tying a string to the opener tab of the soda can and

then attach the string to the piece of meat. The piece of meat should be large enough that the dog

cannot swallow it whole. The owner should set the shaker can in the cupboard above the meat and

arrange the meat so there is no slack in the string and put the double-sided tape on the counter in

front of the meat at the point where the dog’s paws will likely touch when he jumps up. When the

dog puts his feet on the counter, they will stick a little to the tape, which most dogs find

uncomfortable. When he grabs the meat, it will pull the can down on the counter making a loud

noise. These two things should startle the dog enough to make him give up the idea of fresh meat

for dinner. If it does not and he thinks he will drag the meat away from the sticky noisy counter, the

shaker can will follow the meat and bounce on the floor behind the dog making a loud racket.

Some professional dog trainers recommend a static shock mat. It is invisible to the dog until the

dog is already committed to jumping on the counter, whereas the cans are going to be difficult to

conceal. This method can pretty much guarantee 100% consistency. The owner should place the

food far enough back on the mat that even if the dog is somewhat resistant to the mild electrical

stimulation he will receive when he jumps up on the counter, he is not going to be able to get to the

food without getting at least a couple of seconds worth of static electric stimulation. Very few dogs

will elect to do that to get the food.

Another solution might be to simply boundary-train the dog from the kitchen. For boundary training

techniques, refer to the “Bolting” information located in this stage.

Important Note: Consequences should not frighten a dog. Be exceptionally cautious when giving sound or tactile corrections to all dogs, especially sensitive ones.

Consistency in Dealing with Food Stealing


Remember that consistency is extremely critical when treating all behavior problems, especially this

one. Each time the dog is able to jump up, get the food and get away with it, he is getting a very

special reward for this behavior.


Common Problems Encountered When Treating Food Stealing No matter what I do, the

dog still steals food from

the counter.

The owner is obviously still leaving food on the counter for the dog to

steal. Remind the owner of how important management of the

situation is and suggest that she crates the dog with his favorite chew

toy while dinner is being prepared and it is necessary to have food on

the counter. If the owner is leaving meat out to thaw, suggest that she

puts it on a plate in the oven instead of leaving it on the counter.

Remind the owner that every single time the dog gets food from the

counter, it rewards the behavior.

If the owner has been very diligent or is unable to convince the rest of

the family not to leave food out, you should suggest that the dog is not

allowed into the kitchen at any time. Explain and work with the owner

on boundary training techniques. Refer to the “Bolting” information

located in this stage.



common questions or challenges that owners have while trying to teach their dog not to steal

food from counters. Keep in mind that every answer you give to an owner should be phrased in

a manner that does not offend or chastise the owner. Offending the owner will not help the dog

and may even earn you a bad reputation.


Jumping on the Furniture Jumping on furniture is, in some ways, a difficult

behavior problem to resolve. The furniture is

probably the most comfortable place for the dog to

lie and it affords him a good view of his domain.

Jumping on the furniture is also something that

can easily occur when the owner is not present.

This means the potential for inconsistent

reinforcement is very high. Whenever there is

inconsistent reinforcement, it becomes very

difficult to teach proper behavior.

Treatment Plan for Jumping on the Furniture There are four components that need to be addressed when treating this unwanted behavior.



• Consequences for Jumping on the Furniture

• Consistency in Dealing with Jumping on the Furniture

These four components are called the Treatment Plan. All four components must be addressed

in order to eliminate or curtail the behavior. You will notice that some of the information provided

could fall into multiple categories, such as Positive Reinforcement of Alternate Behaviors or

Management. However, we have placed them in the most prominent category for ease of

instruction.

Positive Reinforcement of Alternate Behaviors


Instruct the owner to attach a leash to the dog’s collar and walk him over to the furniture. She

should walk the dog all around the furniture, stopping in front of sofas and chairs. Have the owner

use food treats, praise and petting to show the dog that she likes it very much when he remains on

the floor and does not jump on the furniture. Have the owner make an alternate resting place on

the floor more comfortable for the dog to be on by purchasing a nice, soft pad for him to rest on.

The owner should place it next to the sofa or chair that she most frequently sits on so that the dog

can still feel close to her and has his own comfortable place to lie on the floor. The owner should


give the dog rewards when he is on his mat near the furniture. Have the owner sit on the furniture

and pay special attention to the dog when he is on his mat near her.

Management of the Problem and Setting the Dog up to Succeed When addressing the problem of jumping on furniture, it is very important to control the dog's

access to the furniture 100% of the time. This means that until a dog can be trusted not to jump on

the furniture, he must be monitored whenever he is near the furniture. In order to successfully

monitor the dog, he should be wearing a leash, even if he is just dragging it around. Also, someone

should be paying attention to what the dog is doing at all times when he is near the furniture. If

monitoring the dog is not possible, the dog needs to be prevented from having access to the

furniture. The owner can close the door, put up a baby gate, tether the dog in his resting place, or

put him outside.

Tethering the dog in his resting place for the first few days will prevent him from being able to get up

and move more than a foot or so from his mat. This method can help him understand more quickly

that the mat on the floor is his special resting place. The surrounding area should be treated with a

chewing deterrent prior to him being tethered to prevent inappropriate chewing. Have the owner

use a chain link leash for tethering if she is concerned that the dog will chew on the leash. The

owner should give him treats, toys and attention while he is on his mat and should never leave the

dog unattended while he is tied. The owner should be sure to praise and reward the dog for lying

calmly on his mat so he begins to understand that this is a very rewarding behavior.

Later on, the dog should be allowed to drag a leash and move around the room that his owner is in.

The leash will allow the owner to stop him from getting up on the furniture if he tries. The dog should

be rewarded every time he lies calmly on the floor and should receive the best rewards for

voluntarily lying on his mat. It is very important to first prevent the dog from getting on the furniture

(management) and then make staying off of the furniture a very rewarding behavior (rewarding

alternate behavior).


The owner may need to hold the end of the leash when first allowing the dog some freedom of

movement. When the dog approaches a piece of furniture, the owner should bring the leash taut,

effectively making it impossible for the dog to move forward toward the furniture. When the dog

realizes that he is unable to reach the furniture and turns away from it on his own, the owner should

praise the dog lavishly. It is important that the dog realizes that turning away from the furniture is a


rewarding action for him. If he chooses to stay off of the furniture, he will probably stay off of it

whether the owner is there or not. Some trainers simply will give a leash and collar correction to the

dog for getting on the furniture. However, this can be problematic because if a dog’s only reason

for not getting on the furniture is to avoid a correction, he will probably just wait for the owner to

leave the room and will then jump on the furniture and get comfortable.

Consequences for Jumping on the Furniture At some point in the training process, the dog will begin to understand that his owner does not want

him on the furniture. Unfortunately, most times this “meeting of the minds” won’t be enough to

eliminate the behavior. There will be lapses in management and the dog will make the decision to

jump on the furniture. When this happens, consequences need to be considered.

Example – Use a Leash to Guide the Dog off the Furniture Instruct the owner to walk nonchalantly over to the dog when he is on the furniture. Do not

have her run over yelling and screaming or he will probably jump down and dart away.

Once the owner gets to the dog, have her grasp the leash hanging from the dog’s collar and

walk briskly away from the dog, pulling him off the item.

Examples – Use a Startle Technique

• Shaker Can Some trainers use a shaker can to startle the dog when he jumps on the furniture.

Be careful when using or recommending this technique. Only consider the use of this

correction on dogs who show a slight startle reflex while not becoming fearful,

agitated or aggressive. Make sure the owner handles the shaker can in such a way

that the dog will not associate it with her. In other words, the owner must be

nonchalant. If the owner is in the room with the dog and sees the dog jump up on the

furniture, she should not go running after the dog, yelling and shaking the can or he

is definitely going to make an association with her. The owner must try to be very

casual and shake the can so he cannot see it. The dog should jump off the furniture.

Once he has all four feet on the floor, the owner should praise lavishly to reward the

correct behavior. If shaking the can does not cause the dog to get off the furniture,

have the owner calmly walk over to the dog, take the end of the leash and pull him

off the item.



• Static Electric Mat To teach the dog not to jump on furniture when his owners are not present, he must first

be taught not to jump on it when they are there. Once that has been done, the owners

may begin to booby-trap the furniture. One item they can consider is a static mat, which

is sold in pet stores. The static mat is a very low-voltage electrical mat. The mat puts out

a mild static shock. Many trainers claim that this is a very effective training tool. Begin

by having the owner place the static mat on the furniture when the dog is not present. If

the dog touches it, he gets a mild static shock (much like the shock people receive from

dragging their feet on the carpet) which will very quickly teach him not to jump up on the

furniture. This is a very effective device because it can be deployed when the owners

are not present.

• Motion Sensor A small motion sensor with a loud alarm can also be an excellent way to booby-trap

the furniture. Battery-operated units are preferable so that no electrical outlets are

required for set up. These devices can be purchased for approximately $20.00 at

stores that specialize in electronic devices and are an excellent sound-aversion

training tool. To use this technique, simply have the owner select a piece of furniture

the dog should avoid. If the dog likes the overstuffed chair in the family room, the

motion sensor should be set up so it will be set off the instant the dog goes over to

the chair. The alarm will startle him and teach him to avoid the chair even when his

owners are not present. This can be set up whether the owners are in the room or

not. This is one way to develop the dog’s ability to be safely left alone in the house.

He will learn that he should not touch those things whether his owners are present or

not.

• Make the Furniture Less Comfortable A piece of carpet runner turned prickly-side-up or even something as simple as

aluminum foil placed over furniture can also be effective on some dogs. Remember that

if you are having the owner use a particular booby-trap and the dog keeps getting on the

furniture anyway, you should have the owner switch to something else. A dog who is

sound-sensitive will be more sensitive to a sound-aversion device while a dog who is

tactilely sensitive will probably do better with the carpet runner or the static mat.



In summary, when considering a correction, you should be sure that the correction chosen only

startles the dog. A correction must not cause fear. If the dog is oversensitive to the type of

correction selected, immediately discontinue the correction and try a different type of correction or

method to keep the dog off the furniture.

Important Note: CONSEQUENCES ARE NOT THE SOLUTION! The solution is not just to get a static mat or motion sensor. It is not just to put the dog on a leash and keep him tethered all the time. The solution is not just to praise the dog when he is by the couch or chair and not jumping up. The solution is to do all of these things consistently in the proper order. As an ABC Certified Dog Trainer, it is your responsibility to help your clients understand that a puzzle is only complete when all the pieces are put together.

Consistency in Dealing with Jumping on the Furniture


Consistency is critical when working to curtail or eliminate behavior problems. A good trainer

must help her clients understand that the majority of behaviors we humans label “problems”

(i.e., jumping on the furniture stealing food) are self-rewarding behaviors for the dog. Simply put,

most dogs truly enjoy engaging in these “problem” behaviors and will not miss an opportunity to

partake in them. It is for this reason that consistency plays such a crucial role in treating the

behavior.


Common Problems Encountered When Teaching a Dog to Stay off the Furniture

My dog growls at me

when I try to remove him

from the furniture.

This is more than just a jumping on the furniture problem. This is a

relationship problem. Instruct the owner to focus on Leadership

Exercises and to make the furniture less comfortable by using upside-

down carpet runners. Do not use positive punishment or negative

reinforcement techniques on this dog.

I cannot keep the dog off

of the furniture; every

time I turn my back, up

he goes.

Go over the four components of problem solving with the owner.

Determine which of the steps the owner is being inconsistent with (i.e.,

positive reinforcement of alternate behaviors, management,

consequences or consistency).


common questions or challenges that owners have while trying to teach their dog not to jump on

the furniture. Keep in mind that every answer you give to an owner should be phrased in a

manner that does not offend or chastise the owner. Offending the owner will not help the dog




Excessive Barking There are many different reasons why dogs bark. In most cases, the barking is actually a signal

that another behavior problem exists and, if that problem is addressed, many times the dog will

stop barking on his own. In this section, we will discuss six common types of barking that a dog

may engage in. It is extremely important to know why a dog is barking before trying to control it.

The six types of barking are:

• Excited Play Alert Barking

• Fearful Alarm Barking

• Dominance Barking

• Territorial Barking

• Boredom Barking

• Learned Barking

It is important to understand which of these motivations is stimulating the dog’s barking because

solutions will vary based on what is causing or motivating the dog to bark. By eliminating the

underlying behavior, most times the barking will be eliminated at the same time. If there is still

some residual barking, you should use the Treatment Plan for “Learned Barking” to completely

extinguish the behavior.

General Guidelines for Treating All Types of Excessive Barking Always determine the dog’s threshold for barking behavior before training. There is no benefit to

placing the dog in a situation where he is incapable of not barking and then trying to train the

dog to be quiet.

There are thresholds of various stimuli such as space, activity and/or particular individuals. For

example:

• A dog may be able to remain calm 20 feet from a quiet, calm dog.

• A dog may not be able to remain quiet 10 feet from that same quiet, calm dog.

• A dog may not be able to remain quiet 30 feet from that dog if he's moving.

• A dog may not be able to remain quiet within 50 feet of any cat doing anything!



Therefore, the owner must work with the dog, rewarding the quiet behavior beyond his barking

threshold. Slowly decrease the dog’s threshold, increasing rewards as the exercise becomes

more difficult.

Some trainers opt to "correct" a dog for barking. ABC feels that if you decide to administer a

correction, it should occur no more than once out of every 10 exposures to the stimulus the dog

is barking at and only if the dog is engaging in excited play alert barking. This should avoid

having him make a negative association to the person or dog he's barking at. A negative

association may lead to aggression. The other nine exposures should be done carefully and at

a great enough distance to prevent any barking. The dog should then be lavishly rewarded for

not barking. Ideally, he should be rewarded when he's looking at the owner, not the distraction.

ABC’s preferred techniques when a dog does bark at something are redirecting or luring. The

dog should be lured with a food treat, not pulled, far enough away from the stimulus he is

barking at until he can control himself and not bark. At least two seconds after the barking has

stopped, he should be rewarded for being quiet while keeping his attention focused on the

owner. Don't place food rewards in his mouth if he is facing the stimulus he was barking at.


In addition, teach the owner to watch her dog for stress indicators. For example, a dog usually

gets stressed by a physical correction when the owner has pushed the dog into a situation in

which it is impossible for him not to bark. Instead, instruct the owner to work more on rewarding

the dog for good behavior in situations where he can be quiet. The owner should also make

sure that the rewards she is using for quiet behavior are actually rewarding for the dog. Food is

not rewarding to an overfed dog. Praise and petting is not rewarding for a dog who gets free

attention at other times, etc.


Minor Stress Indicators Major Stress Indicators

• Won't take food from owner, trainer, or

strangers

• Won't look at owner

• Won't comply with known obedience cue

• Aggression

• Trying to leave the training area

• Freezes and won't move

• Flops around like a fish on a line

• "Faints" or lies down and refuses to move

• Won't stop staring at the stimulus he is

barking at

• Hackles up

• Eyes dilated

• Has whale eyes (showing the whites of the

eye)

• Sweaty paws

• Shallow, rapid breathing

• Showing teeth

These stress indicators probably mean the dog is overwhelmed and is not in the correct frame

of mind to learn. The owner should move the dog away from the distraction to a distance at

which the dog is comfortable enough to focus on the owner, take treats and comply with known

obedience cues.

Treatment Plan for Excessive Barking As with all other behavioral challenges, there are four components that need to be addressed

when treating all types of excessive barking. These four components are called the Treatment

Plan. All four components need to be addressed in order to eliminate and/or curtail the

behavior. The below guidelines represent the basic information needed for treating any type of

excessive barking.



• Consequences for Excessive Barking


• Consistency in Dealing with Excessive Barking


Positive Reinforcement of Alternate Behaviors Ask your clients to implement the Leadership Exercises outlined in the Learning Theory stage

for all types of barking problems. These exercises will be especially helpful when treating a dog

who has learned to bark as a way of demanding and getting the things he wants. The owners

must understand that these barkers need to learn to earn praise and not demand it. Dogs who

demand attention will not be given it and will instead be asked to engage in an appropriate

alternative behavior, such as sitting or lying down, as a way of getting the things they want.

Make sure to pick obedience cues that are familiar to the dog so he can be successful. It is

important that the dog quickly learns that performance of the alternate behaviors will earn him

the things he wants. Caution dog owners to very gradually increase the complexity of the

alternate behaviors. It is important to set the dog up to succeed.

Management of the Problem and Setting the Dog up to Succeed One possible solution might be ignoring the behavior, although this can be tough to do. Clients

must be prepared for increased barking until the dog finally gives up and stops barking. This

increased barking is called an extinction burst. Have the owner try keeping the dog’s favorite

toys out of sight except at specific play times or chew times on the dog’s mat. This allows the

owner to control the dog’s access to the item. A dog will be less likely to demand an object he

cannot see. When it is playtime, ask the dog to Sit-Stay while getting the item to play with or

Down-Stay on his mat for a chew toy. In this scenario, the dog still gets ample attention and

chew time while the inappropriate barking is curtailed.

Consequences for Excessive Barking Shaker cans and water squirt guns are used by some trainers in the industry to treat excessive

barking. However, ABC cautions against their use and recommends they are only used in

conjunction with rewarding an alternate behavior and only after the proper relationship has been

established between the owner and the dog. For example, if you are treating a dog who barks

continuously at the sliding glass door to be let in, you might consider having the owner practice

Sit-Stays with the dog on the outside of the door. After each successful Sit-Stay at the sliding

glass door, the owner should let the dog come into the house. This will teach the dog an

alternate behavior he can perform to get the owner to open the door.




DO NOT use startle techniques, positive punishment corrections or

negative reinforcement corrections on a dog who is being or has been

treated for fear or dominance behavior.

Consistency in Dealing With Excessive Barking Consistency is critical when working to curtail or eliminate behavior problems. A good trainer



rewarding behaviors for the dog. Simply put, most dogs truly enjoy engaging in these

“problem” behaviors and will not miss an opportunity to partake in them. It is for this reason that

consistency plays such a crucial role in treating the behavior. Remember that if a behavior is

successful, it is likely to occur again.

Dogs respond well to consistency. Explain to your clients that dogs are happier, confident and

secure in an environment where the rules are consistent. Explain that dogs become suspicious

and untrusting of an owner who changes the rules by requiring compliance sometimes but not

others. In order to enforce the rules consistently, consequences and/or corrections may also

need to be applied. The type of consequence and/or correction should also remain consistent.

The dog will become confused if the same behavior results in a consequence on Tuesday and

no consequence on Wednesday. If the owner is not consistent, the dog will continue to

demonstrate the problem behavior at every opportunity because he finds it rewarding. Remind

your clients over and over again that if they are not consistent, their dog will not be consistent.

Excited Play Alert Barking

This type of barking is usually directed at things the dog sees but cannot get to. These may

include other dogs, people, a ball, squirrels or other small animals, cats, etc. Most puppies

begin exhibiting this type of barking by four and half months of age. The dog's demeanor is

playful and excited; body posture often includes play bowing or bouncing around. Facial

features are generally relaxed with ears being held loose; the tail may be wagging, but not

stiffly. The hackles on his back are not up.

These owners should be informed that this kind of barking will probably subside as the dog

matures if the owners continue to work on obedience, focus exercises and socialization. The


owners should increase their socialization work with the dog so he can become more

nonchalant about other dogs and people. As the owners learn to watch their dog more closely

(i.e., changes in posture), they can redirect the dog’s attention onto themselves when the dog

looks at something distracting. This is done by keeping the leash loose and placing a baited

hand directly on or in front of the dog’s nose and making some funny noise (clicking the tongue,

kissy-type noise, etc.) to redirect the dog’s attention off of the distraction and onto the baited

hand. The owner should then back up while keeping her baited hand stuck to the dog’s nose

and should be ready for the dog to turn away from the distraction and follow the treat by turning

toward her. Once the dog turns away from the distraction, the owner should immediately treat,

praise, be interesting to the dog and maybe even start some tug play with a toy. The dog will

soon learn (sometimes within a few minutes) to turn to the owner each time he sees something

distracting as if to say, "Where's my treat?” Make sure rewards only come after the dog has

stopped barking for a second or two.

Until the dog has developed the ability to stay quiet in exciting situations, the owner should be

encouraged to work the dog at a greater distance from other dogs or whatever is exciting and

distracting him. It should be explained that this is only temporary and that by working with him at

a greater distance, he will be able to focus on the owner and actually learn something instead of

just struggling against the owner’s efforts to control him. Hand-feeding treats from a fanny-pack

for several weeks only when the dog is following and looking up at the owner will speed up the

process. Be sure the owner only places the food treat in the dog’s mouth as the dog’s muzzle is

turned up towards her. The owner should try not to "ask" the dog to look up at her; it is much

better if the owner just waits for the dog to glance up at her on his own. Otherwise, the dog will

think that he only has to look when the owner asks him to and will continue to look away at

other times. The goal is for the dog to learn that it is his job to pay attention, and when he does,

he is amply rewarded.

Owners should also be instructed to desensitize their dogs to whatever they are barking at.

Proper desensitization will result in the dog learning to ignore the previously-meaningful

stimulus which prompted the barking.


The dog should also learn to engage in an alternative behavior when confronted with the types

of things that stimulate his barking. Have owners focus on teaching their dog to listen to them

around distractions, especially the types of distractions that may stimulate barking. Remind


owners to enthusiastically praise acceptable non-barking, focused behavior whenever it occurs,

especially around distractions. Logically, if a dog barks when he sees squirrels and the owner

works the dog on obedience cues around squirrels, the dog will learn to watch the owner and

not bark, even around squirrels. With patience and persistence plus consistency in praising all

non-barking focused behaviors, the dog will learn to watch the owner and not bark, even around

squirrels. Once the dog has learned to focus on the owner and not bark when confronted with

the stimuli that had triggered a barking episode in the past, the owner can then gradually move

closer and closer to the stimuli. This type of motivational training technique is desirable when

working with excited play alert barking.

While this behavior can take a while to control, it is workable and owners simply need to be

given the correct tools. It is important that owners avoid accidentally encouraging this type of

barking behavior. Owners who encourage their dog to chase and bark at cats or other animals

need to be instructed to stop. Owners should also understand that they should not praise their

dogs in an attempt to calm them down. The only time praise should be given is when the dog is

not barking.

Be careful if you decide to use positive punishment corrections for play alert barking. It is

important to build up a strong foundation of obedience and focus around the stimulus that

prompts the barking first. Administering positive punishment corrections too soon may initially

suppress the barking, but the dog may develop negative associations to whatever he was

barking at. This increases the likelihood of a future aggression problem. For example, a dog

who playfully barks at children riding bicycles may begin to dislike children after daily painful

corrections for barking at children on bicycles.

Once the dog is successful at controlling his barking behavior approximately 90% of the time

when confronted with one particular stimulus, some trainers will introduce positive punishment

corrections for play alert barking. Corrections may include a quick tug on the leash and collar, a

squirt of water, or a firm “No.” Before considering the use of positive punishment corrections,

remember that the most important criteria for choosing a correction is that it must be effective in

one or two applications and it must not stress or frighten the dog. After the administration of a

positive punishment correction, the dog should immediately stop barking and then look to the

owner for direction as his default behavior.



Training Example

Introducing Corrections After several weeks of working his dog on basic obedience cues and focusing skills around

squirrels, Mr. Smith’s dog is able to listen and focus approximately 90% of the time when

squirrels are around. Now Mr. Smith takes his dog to a quiet street where squirrels are

frequently seen both on the ground and in the trees. Mr. Smith’s dog, a five-month-old Labrador

puppy named Cole, loves squirrels and would happily spend his life barking at them.

• Mr. Smith works Cole for a few minutes to attain focus prior to going to the quiet street.

• Once there, Mr. Smith works Cole far enough away from the squirrels so that Cole can

successfully focus and obey simple obedience cues at least 90% of the time.

• Mr. Smith also administers a leash and collar correction if Cole starts barking at the squirrels

during this training session. That means that Cole will receive positive punishment

corrections no more than 10% of the time during this training session.

• Mr. Smith does not hurt Cole, and his objective when tugging the leash is not to cause pain

but to temporarily change Cole’s focus from the squirrels to himself.

• Mr. Smith then moves in the opposite direction, away from the squirrels, the moment he

corrects Cole. This will help direct Cole’s attention back onto Mr. Smith.

• After Cole has redirected his attention back onto Mr. Smith, he should be praised and

rewarded for his non-barking focused behavior.

Mr. Smith will need to repeat this process over and over again, getting closer and closer to the

squirrels until Cole does not bark at the squirrels no matter how close they are.

The dog must have many positive non-barking exposures to balance out the correction. This will

prevent the dog making a negative association and possibly becoming aggressive toward the

stimulus he was barking at. This barking exercise will gradually develop a “new” habit for the

dog. When he “notices” something he would ordinarily bark at, he will instead take that as a cue

to turn to the owner to get a treat and/or attention. This will either entirely prevent or greatly

reduce excited play alert barking.




Always reward the dog for quiet, focused behavior or the dog will not

bother offering it after a correction or redirection because it is not

rewarding. This is a very common mistake and is why many dog owners

report that redirection doesn’t work or that the squirt bottle or yelling “No”

worked for a while, but now the dog just ignores it.

If you are working with a dog who play alert barks in the backyard at things he can see on the

other side of the fence, there are a couple of techniques the owner can use. First, help the

owner to teach the dog a signal that means “come to me and get steak!” Suggest that the

owner gets a small whistle or uses the word “quiet” and starts teaching the dog to associate the

cue to steak. Have the owner begin practicing this in a quiet area so the dog can learn that

every single time he hears the cue, the owner will give him steak. After a day or so, the dog will

come running from wherever and whatever he is doing to get the steak. Once the dog is

thoroughly charged up about coming and getting steak when cued, the owner should be able to

blow the whistle when the dog is in the backyard barking at something he sees and still have

the dog dash over to the owner to get the steak. After several weeks, the owner won’t have to

reward with steak every time.

Some dogs are so fanatical with fence barking that other remedies must be considered.

Oftentimes, making a fence solid so the dog cannot see through it will eliminate or greatly

reduce fence barking in the backyard. There is also a device called a Scarecrow that is very

effective at repelling a barking dog away from a fence and therefore reducing the barking. It

hooks up to a garden hose and has a motion sensor and Rainbird on it. When the dog is “seen”

by the built-in motion sensor as he rushes the fence to bark, he gets squirted with water from

the Rainbird. It then shuts off automatically and resets itself. This is a great tool, as the owner

does not have to be present for it to work.

Fearful Alarm Barking

Fearful alarm barking is usually demonstrated by under-socialized or genetically shy dogs.

These dogs are typically barking at things they are fearful of or objects they have not seen

before (i.e., a bag blowing in the wind). The dog’s body posture is generally backward or low

and he may lean on or even hide behind his owner. The dog’s ears and tail are generally down

and his tail may even be tucked between his legs. Hackles may or may not be up with the

mouth tight and sometimes drawn back to expose all of the dog’s teeth. Pupils may be dilated


and the eyes may dart in all directions. It is important for clients to understand that when fearful

dogs bark, the problem is not the barking, it is the symptom. The problem is that the dog is

fearful. Until the fearful behavior is treated using techniques such as counterconditioning, the

owner will need to be extremely careful when addressing the barking.

These owners should be instructed to not reprimand their dogs in any way. If an owner of this

type of dog were to reprimand her dog, it would cause the dog to develop an even more

negative association to the stimulus he is fearful of. Whether the dog is fearful of dogs or

people, the owners are going to have to work far enough away from what the dog fears that he

can concentrate on them. If the dog is so distracted that he is only focusing on keeping tabs on

where the object of his fear is, then it is impossible for him to learn anything.

If, however, the owner proceeds slowly, she has the ability to gradually work her dog closer and

closer to other dogs and people while the dog can still think and learn. To help the dog

overcome his fears, it will be important to work with the dog when he is very hungry. If the dog is

hungry enough, food overcomes fear. The desire he has to eat will be an excellent motivator for

him to overcome the fear. Since he must approach what he is fearful of to get the food, he will

begin to make a positive association to being outgoing. In the beginning, the owner should

reward him simply for not retreating from the stimulus.

The owner must also be coached on proper leash-handling techniques so as to not make the

dog more fearful by holding the leash tight. The owner must be made aware of ways that she

may inadvertently reward the dog for fearful behavior by looking at, touching or talking to the

dog when he is behaving fearfully. She must correct her own body posture and tone of voice so

she does not encourage fearful behavior from the dog. The owner must understand the

importance of not rushing the dog to get over his fears. She must also understand that she

needs to progress at the dog’s pace and that a reasonable amount of time will be required to

work on the dog’s fearful behavior. Owners often greatly underestimate the time required and

then become frustrated when things are not fixed immediately. Make sure the owners have a

realistic understanding of the process and time requirements.


In addition, these owners must make the dog work for everything he gets to help develop a

more outgoing attitude in general. In other words, instruct the owners to implement the No Free

Lunch Policy!


As mentioned earlier, avoid positive punishment techniques and negative reinforcement

techniques. Teach the owner to take every precaution to avoid startling a fear barker. This will

only make this dog more fearful and may escalate fear barking into fear aggression. Owners

must also avoid praising or touching a fear barker in an attempt to soothe or calm the dog down.

This is actually the most common reaction to fear barking and while it sometimes has a

temporary effect of stopping or curtailing the barking, it does so at the risk of encouraging it as

well.

To begin treating a dog who is fearful alarm barking, the trainer and the dog owner must first

identify exactly what the dog is fearful of and then establish a threshold of tolerance, or

behavioral threshold.


A dog’s threshold of tolerance is defined as the distance the dog needs to be from whatever

he’s fearful of in order to refrain from barking and relax enough to concentrate on the owner

instead of the fearful stimulus.


Training Example

Working Within the Threshold of Tolerance Mrs. Jones has a one-and-a-half-year-old Rottweiler mix. The dog was obtained at ten and a

half weeks old and adequately socialized. He was friendly with people and other dogs,

neutered at ten and a half months old, and in excellent health. The problem was that the dog

would bark uncontrollably whenever Mrs. Jones’ gardeners would enter the yard. Mrs. Jones

speculated that something happened to the dog when her gardeners were in the yard. She had

no memory of this behavior occurring before the age of six months.

• Mrs. Jones was asked to put her dog on a leash and walk with him to the far end of her

yard.

• When the gardeners entered her yard, she was roughly 60 feet from them. At this distance,

the dog noticed the gardeners but didn’t react. Mrs. Jones lavishly praised and rewarded her

dog, which caused her dog to relax slightly and focus intently on her. She kept his focus for

approximately 10 minutes and then took him out of sight of the gardeners.

• She did this for three weeks, never getting closer than the established threshold of tolerance

of 60 feet. By this time, her dog was completely focused on her and did not appear to be

nervous around the gardeners when 60 feet away from them.

• On the fourth week, she moved approximately 50 feet from the gardeners. The dog's

reaction was very similar to the first week at 60 feet. He was slightly nervous and noticed

them but didn’t bark. Mrs. Jones focused the dog’s attention on her with praise and rewards

when doing this for another two weeks.

• She then moved to 40 feet and in following this process was eventually able to get her dog

to completely ignore the gardeners at any distance.

Fear barking is often a workable and sometimes surprisingly easy behavior to treat. It is also

one that is best dealt with in private lessons as opposed to group class lessons.

Dominance Barking


Dominance barking is most often seen in adult intact males. It is also more common in the

working and herding class breeds, such as Akitas, Rottweilers, German Shepherd Dogs, and

Doberman Pinschers; however, it can occur with any breed, male or female, intact or not. The


barking is not the problem; it is the dominant behavior that is the problem.

It is usually easy to identify a dominantly barking dog by observing the dog's behavior toward

the owner. Does he challenge the owner with direct eye contact and dominant body posture? Is

his chest out, tail held up, or stiffly wagging when interacting with the owner? Does he growl or

bark at the owner when asked to obey or get off the sofa? Has he ever exhibited any type of

aggressive behavior toward the owner, other members of the family or anyone else? If the

answer to any or all of these questions is yes, you will need to instruct the owner to immediately

implement all of the Leadership Exercises outlined in Learning Theory stage, especially the No

Free Lunch Policy.

The greatest improvement in this kind of barking will come from changing the relationship so the

dog sees the owner as a strong and benevolent leader. Make certain the owners understand

that restructuring the relationship between the dog and themselves may take weeks or even

months; however, it must be done to achieve any level of success.

The owner may begin working on some posturing techniques two weeks after the dog and the

owner have a successfully-established leadership relationship. The body posturing exercises

involve guiding the dominant dog into positions that will make him feel more submissive. We

recommend using a head collar to help with the body posturing exercises.

The body postures to encourage are:

• Sitting with attention on the owner in a way that requires the dominant dog to turn his

head away from other dogs he is concerned about

• Sitting and turning his head away from other dogs or people to receive a treat from the

owner

• Sitting and shaking hands

• Sitting and looking up at the owner’s face while the owner strokes the top of his head,

flattening his ears down

• Sitting while allowing other dogs to sniff him a little without allowing him to get up or sniff

back


• Heeling with the owner while other dogs are heeling behind him at a reasonable distance


The above posturing exercises are excellent ways to prevent a dominant dog from locking eyes

with another dog or person. The owner of a dominant dog should always be on the look out for

her dog’s dominant posturing attempts, like trying to lock eyes with another dog or person. The

owner needs to be ready to interrupt and redirect the dog’s attention before he is successful in

his confrontational pose.

Absolutely no positive punishment or negative reinforcement (i.e., leash and collar correction)

should be considered until the proper relationship has been established between the dog and

owner. It is vitally important that this type of barking be taken very seriously by the owner and

trainer because it can quickly escalate from dominance barking to dominance aggression if left

untreated.

If the dog is an intact male and the barking and growling seems to be directed at other male

dogs, it may be helpful to have the dog neutered. If the owner does decide to have the dog

neutered, she shouldn’t expect his behavior to change overnight. It usually takes about a month

or so for the hormones that drive the behavior to leave the dog’s body. The owners will also

need to be prepared to correct any aggressive male behaviors that the dog learned before he

was neutered.

Territorial Barking

Territorial barking is most commonly seen in the working and herding class breeds, such as

Akitas, Rottweilers, German Shepherd Dogs, and Doberman Pinschers; however, it can occur

with any breed. Territorial barking is a normal canine behavior and, in many instances, a

desirable behavior for dog owners. The key is controlling the behavior. Here again, territorial

barking is not the problem, it is the symptom.

It is generally easy to identify territorial barking. These types of dogs will usually not bark unless

they are at home (i.e., their territory). Sometimes territorial barkers extend their territory to the

surrounding neighborhood. These dogs will then bark at passersby and other dogs on the street

where they are typically taken for walks. A leash and head collar should be worn by dogs who

engage in territorial barking whenever they are taken out for a walk. The head collar will allow

the owner the most effective and immediate control of this behavior.



If the dog owner you are working with has a dog of this type, you should instruct her to

immediately discourage all territorial marking outside of her property. The owner may still take

her dog out for a walk, but the dog is not permitted to eliminate on anything during the walk. If

the owners live in an apartment, then the dog should be taken to one area for elimination

purposes only and should be discouraged from marking anywhere else. The owner does not

want to encourage the dog’s territoriality.

Have the owner implement all the Leadership Exercises and the socialization techniques

outlined in earlier stages. The implementation of the Leadership Exercises will put the owner in

the authority position and at the same time help remove the dog from the power position. This

power position can cause a dog to perceive that he is the pack member who determines what

visitors are welcome into the territory.

You must also instruct the owner to use counterconditioning techniques when treating this

behavior. The goal is to change the dog’s attitude about people and other animals entering his

territory. To accomplish this, the dog must only receive his favorite unconditioned reinforcer(s)

when a person or another dog enters the territory. The dog should never have access to these

unconditioned reinforcers at any other time. Over time, the dog will begin to think that good

things happen to him whenever a person or dog enters the territory.

Training Example

Treating Territorial Barking You are working with a dog who exhibits uncontrollable territorial barking whenever he

encounters another dog or person on his walk. With the dog on a leash and head collar, you

should instruct the owner to give the dog his favorite unconditioned reinforcers (i.e., cheese) the

instant the dog notices the other dog and/or person. Try to present the unconditioned reinforcer

before the dog begins barking, if at all possible.


If the dog starts barking before the owner can present the unconditioned reinforcer, the owner

should attempt to redirect his attention to the owner. The owner should lure the dog with the

cheese and then give him the cheese once he has turned his head toward her (away from the

stimulus) and has stopped barking. It is important that the dog chooses to follow the lure and

willingly turns his own head away from the stimulus. Make sure the owner is not pulling on the


leash and head collar to force the dog to look away from the stimulus.

Sometimes a dog who has already begun the territorial barking behavior is too excited to be

redirected. If this is the case, give him a couple of pieces of his unconditioned reinforcer while

he is barking and then stop abruptly. This should get his attention. He should say “Hey, where

did my cheese go?” Now immediately redirect the dog by food luring his attention to his owner

and then give him his unconditioned reinforcer the instant he turns away from the stimulus he

was barking at.

The dog will begin to expect good things to happen to him whenever he sees other dogs and

dog owners, thus changing his attitude toward them. The owner should also be instructed to

continuously give the unconditioned reinforcer (i.e., bounce a tennis ball around to entertain the

dog or continuously feed the dog cheese) until the other dog and/or person has walked past.

This will help make it clear to the dog that the presence of the other dog and/or person is what

triggers the appearance of his unconditioned reinforcer.

Once the dog begins to change his attitude, you can begin asking the dog to obey simple

obedience cues like Sit-Stay and Focus before giving the unconditioned reinforcer. By

progressing slowly, you can gradually increase the stimulation (i.e., get closer to other dogs and

dog owners) and still get the desired results. Leadership exercises, counterconditioning

techniques and positive obedience are three very powerful tools that can be used to treat

territorial barking wherever it occurs.

Boredom Barking


Some breeds of dogs are more inclined to whine, bark or howl when bored. If a client’s dog is

barking, howling or whining and a cause (such as separation anxiety) cannot be determined,

you should recommend that the owner takes her dog to a veterinarian for examination.

Sometimes dogs vocalize when they are in pain. Often there may be no external signs of the

pain, such as dogs suffering from dental disease, urinary tract infections, anal sac impaction,

ear infections, etc. Once you have ruled out physical discomfort and/or emotional problems

such as separation anxiety, you can begin to treat boredom barking. Boredom barking is not

addressed by a typical Treatment Plan. Again, the problem is not the barking, it is the boredom. Most dogs will cease barking when the activity and mental stimulation available to them meets

their physical and emotional requirements.


If you determine the dog is engaging in boredom barking, inform your clients that this type of

barking can go on for hours. The solution must include giving the dog more mental and physical

stimulation.


• Physical Stimulation – A proper exercise program should be put in place

immediately. Most owners underestimate the amount of exercise their dog needs. If

the dog is engaging in boredom barking, he needs to be exercised at least once a

day until he is panting heavily. Keeping in mind that different dogs have different

exercise requirements, some dogs may require a two-mile run before panting

heavily. Fetch is also a wonderful exercise. The owner can make this more

interesting by having the dog fetch a variety of things, like balls, Frisbees or toys.

Another alternative might be a laser pointer. Some dogs get really excited about

chasing the light from a laser pointer or flashlight. Whichever you or the owner

select, make sure the owner understands that she needs to keep playing with the

dog until he is panting heavily. Many dogs enjoy hunting and foraging-type activities.

(I bet you can guess what breeds they are!) Suggest that owners with these types of

dogs hide toys in the backyard for the dog to seek out. They should begin by having

one person restrain the dog while the other hides the toy where the dog can see.

They should then gradually hide the toy in more difficult places so that the dog will

have to use his nose to locate the toy. The owners can eventually hide toys in the

backyard when the dog is not looking and the dog can spend hours trying to find

them when he is alone in the backyard. Many dogs love to practice herding a large

hard ball called a Boomer Ball. They can exhaust themselves in 15 to 20 minutes

chasing the ball around, trying to get their mouth on it. Suggest that the owners

consider rotating the dog’s toys. Have the owner make seven different toys bags and

label them Monday through Sunday. Each bag should contain at least three different

toys in it. On Monday, the dog gets the toys in the Monday bag and the toys are

picked up on Monday evening when the owner comes home. The dog must not see

these toys again until the following Monday. On Tuesday, the dog gets the toys in

the Tuesday bag and the toys are picked up when the owner gets home, and so on.

In addition, suggest that owners use toys that can be stuffed with food, like the Kong

toy. By rotating the toys and rotating the stuffing you put into the toys, the dog will

remain stimulated by the same group of toys.


• Mental Stimulation – Since dogs are social animals, obtaining another dog for

exercise or employing a dog walker/runner can be helpful. Sometimes a recording of

the family’s voices may be played for the dog as additional mental stimulation. The

owners should consider leaving a TV on for an inside dog or a radio on for an

outside dog. Practicing obedience and trick training every single day will also provide

mental stimulation for the dog.

As a last resort for dogs at risk of being re-homed, abandoned or euthanized because of

barking, some trainers and owners consider surgical de-barking and/or electronic or citronella

bark collars. If the owners are considering the de-barking option, make sure they understand

that this procedure should only be done by a veterinary surgeon who is very experienced with

the procedure. The owner should understand that there is a chance that the dog may still be

able to emit some sound and that the vocal cords may grow back.

If you are considering using an electronic bark collar as a last resort, please be extremely

cautious. This training tool is not for novices. In addition, shock-type bark collars should not be

used in situations where the dog may receive the electronic correction around other dogs or

people. This collar is definitely not a good choice if the owner has more than one dog. The dog

may become stressed by the correction and redirect his aggression onto whatever or whomever

is closest to him. Many dogs become aggressive in barking situations like fence-line barking

where the dog may have the perception of competition and turn around and attack another dog

or person.


As with all problems, owners need to be reminded that results do not occur overnight and that

practice, patience, and consistency will produce lasting results.


Learned Barking

Learned barking is often demonstrated by a “bossy” dog in an attempt to get things he wants,

such as attention. These dogs generally bark at their owners rather than at other dogs or

people. They will generally bark more, jump on or even grab the owner if they are ignored.

This owner should be informed that she is going to have to show her dog that the barking will no

longer get him what he wants. For example, some dogs will bark at their owners to get the

owners to open a door, to play ball with them, to pet them or to give them a treat. The owner

must not even look at the dog when he barks. Ignoring the dog and even turning away from him

when he barks needs to occur 100% of the time by everyone that comes in contact with the dog.

The owner must be warned about the extinction burst she will experience as the dog wonders

why barking no longer works to get attention. An example of an extinction burst in this situation

is the dog barking more for a few days as he figures out that barking no longer works to get

attention. This is similar to people who push the elevator button a few more times before giving

up and taking the stairs. If everyone ignores the dog 100% of the time for barking, the barking

should disappear in about three days. However, if there is even the slightest response from the

owner to the barking (looking at the dog, touching him or talking to him), it may never go away.

In circumstances that would normally stimulate barking, the owner must be sure to pay attention

to the dog when he’s not barking. This preemptive behavior on the dog owner’s part is very

important because the dog will quickly try barking again if he thinks "being good" doesn't work to

get him attention.

Also, if the owner gets frustrated with the dog and wants to give a typical leash or verbal

correction, she should be discouraged from doing so. This is important because dominant or

pushy dogs are typically the ones that engage in this type of behavior. The correction the owner

is likely to try usually just results in the dog escalating his behavior to serious jumping and

mouthing as mentioned earlier in this section.

If in special circumstances a physical correction is deemed necessary, it needs to be closely

monitored to make sure it is of sufficient strength to be effective.


It is important to understand that when treating a barking problem of any kind, you will find that

most cases will have some learned behavior, regardless of whether the initial motivation for


barking was fear, dominance, boredom, etc. The most common examples of learned barking

include barking at the owner or other people for attention, barking at the door to be let in or out,

barking at a ball or toy so the owner will throw it, barking at an owner or cabinet for food. Your

clients must be instructed to never reward this type of learned barking if they expect to ever

eliminate it. This includes giving him what he was asking for, whether it is attention, coming in

the house, food, etc.




Common Problems Encountered When Treating Excessive Barking The following questions and answers are written with the assumption that

the problem underlying the barking has been addressed.

Every time I put the dog

in the backyard, he starts

to bark.

Ask the owner how much exercise the dog is getting. Most owners

severely underestimate how much exercise a dog requires. Suggest at

least one 20-minute walk per day and at least one 20-minute play

session in the backyard with the dog.

Ask the owner what she does when the dog is barking in the backyard.

Is the owner inadvertently reinforcing the backyard barking behavior

by letting the dog back into the house?

Every single time the

doorbell rings, my dog

goes crazy. He will not

stop barking and jumping

frantically, no matter what

I do to him.

This is actually very common. Think about it -- every time the doorbell

rings, a person comes in the house with lots of wonderful smells on

them and the dog usually gets a large amount of attention too. The key

here is desensitizing the dog to the sound of the doorbell. He needs to

learn that the doorbell means little more than the clock chiming on the

wall. How is this accomplished? The first step is to have the owners

put a note on their door asking that no one use the doorbell. The

second step is to have a friend or neighborhood child ring the doorbell

10 to 20 times per day and do absolutely nothing about it. The owners

should just keep doing what they were doing and if the dog gets

frantic, just ignore him. Do this every single day until the dog no longer

reacts to the doorbell. During the desensitization process, the owners

should be working with the dog on greeting manners (refer to the Sit

cue in the Basic Obedience Cues stage) so he is ready to work on

these behaviors at the front door as soon as he is desensitized to the

doorbell.

At this point with the doorbell still being rung 10 to 20 times per day,

the owners should start to answer it one or two times. There should be

no one at the door and the owners should be practicing greeting

manners by having the dog Sit and Stay calmly while the owners open

and close the door with no one there. If the dog does not stay calm,


Common Problems Encountered When Treating Excessive Barking have the owners work more on greeting manners and try again in a

few days. If the dog does remain in control of himself, the owners

should slowly progress to having the doorbell rung 10 times per day

and going to the door every time to answer it (with no one there).

Then, the owners may introduce a person at the door when the

doorbell is rung one out of the 10 times and work up to a person at the

door every time the doorbell is rung (the person does not come in yet).

When the dog can maintain control of himself when seeing a person at

the door, it is time for the owner to slowly introduce a person coming

into the house one out of the 10 times the door bell is rung, etc.

Instruct the owners to keep practicing until the dog can remain calm

when greeting regular guests at the door.

Keep in mind that this training can take up to several months to

achieve, depending on how long the dog has frantically greeted guests

and how diligent the owner is. Remind the owners that they must be

consistent to extinguish this behavior. A halfhearted attempt will fail to

teach the dog the proper behavior.

My dog is pretty good most

of the time, but he still

barks out the window

every time someone

walks by on the street.

Make sure the owners are not allowing access to the window at any

time. Help the owner understand that each time the dog barks at

people walking by the window, the barking behavior is being

reinforced. The dog’s perception is that his barking is the reason why

the people continued walking past the house and out of his territory.

The dog does not understand that the person would have left his

territory regardless of his barking. This reinforces territorial barking.



common questions or challenges that owners have while trying to treat excessive barking.





Inappropriate Chewing Inappropriate chewing is among the most common

problems you are likely to deal with as a professional

dog trainer. This is especially true when working with

owners who have new puppies. It is your responsibility

as a trainer to help your clients understand that all

dogs, especially puppies, are going to chew and it is

the owner’s job to teach them what is acceptable to

chew. In this section, we are going to discuss the reasons why dogs and puppies chew as well

as ways to help owners eliminate inappropriate chewing.

Some common reasons why dogs and puppies chew are boredom, teething, enjoyment (it’s fun

to tear stuff up), or an inadequate or improper diet. Remember that dogs are intelligent. They are

inquisitive, especially during their puppy phase. Plus, they do not have hands. Think about how

often one-year-old or two-year-old children exploring their new environment touch things. A puppy

is not unlike a child at this age. However, since the puppy does not have hands, he explores with

his mouth. This is a very normal behavior. You need to help your clients understand that they are

not going to stop their puppies from chewing. It is just not reasonable or realistic. The goal is not to

eliminate chewing but to teach the puppy which things are appropriate to chew on.

Treatment Plan for Inappropriate Chewing There are four components that need to be addressed when treating inappropriate chewing.



• Consequences for Inappropriate Chewing

• Consistency In Dealing with Inappropriate Chewing






instruction.


Positive Reinforcement of Alternate Behaviors Remember that all dogs chew, but what they chew is up to you and the owner. The key is to direct

the majority of the owner’s efforts toward teaching the dog to chew on appropriate items and then

reward him accordingly. Dogs do not have an inherent sense of what a chew toy is, nor can they

differentiate between a chew toy and a family heirloom. Therefore, the owner must teach the dog

the difference.

The real key to addressing inappropriate chewing is to strongly fixate the dog on chewing the

correct items. If the owner can get the dog to chew on the proper items 70% more than he does

right now, then logically, the dog is going to chew 70% less on the incorrect items. That coupled

with other things like proper exercise, proper diet and making some of the unacceptable items less

available and tasty to the dog will help create a successful Treatment Plan for the problem. By

fixating a dog's attention on the proper chew toys, it will be easier for the dog to make the

correct chewing choice. Each and every time the dog makes the correct choice, he must be

rewarded for doing so. The reward given to the dog should not cause the dog to stop chewing. It

should only let him know that the owner is pleased with his choice of chew toys.

Select four to five proper chew toys and instruct all family members to begin to put emphasis on

these toys as their favorites. Selecting the proper chew toys is extremely important. Proper chew

toys should be those items the owners want their dog to chew on. The chew toys selected should

not resemble other off-limits household items. For example, Nylabones and Kongs do not resemble

valuables in most homes. However, in contrast, rawhide is a leather product similar to leather

shoes or gloves. Buddha ropes are similar to the tasseled ends of rugs. Fuzzy plush toys are similar

to carpeting, stuffed animals, fuzzy slippers or throw pillows. Rubber or plastic squeaky toys are

similar to children's toys. Be careful. Counsel the owners to take time to think about the types of

things they wish the dog to avoid and then help them to make the appropriate toy selections.


Once the owners have selected chew toys that they want the dog to fixate on, there are a few

professional tips you can give them to quickly get the dog focused on chewing the correct things.

For example, some porous nylon toys can be soaked for 15 or 20 minutes a few times a day in beef

or chicken broth or bouillon to give them a greater flavor and palatability. A hard rubber toy that is

hollow in the center can be stuffed with peanut butter or cheese spread in the middle part of the toy

and then frozen overnight. This will keep a dog occupied for hours as he is licking the spread out of

the middle of the toy. Remind your clients that if their dog is chewing and playing with these items,


he will not be chewing on the table leg or sofa. Refer to the Leadership Exercises for more

examples of proper chew toys if need be.

Instruct the owner to use a combination of food baiting, praise, petting and play to encourage the

dog to pick up and chew on the correct toys. The chew toys need to become the major source of

interaction between the dog and all family members. This is especially true when working with

young puppies and small children. Explain to your clients that if they were to play with their dog

with a cast iron skillet each and every day for an hour, the dog would learn to love the cast iron

skillet because he associates it with the time he spends with them. Get the children involved in the

training process whenever possible. Children as young as six years old can help teach the dog to

chew on the correct items. Teach your clients to let their children hand the dog a Nylabone that was

soaked in chicken broth or a Kong toy stuffed with liver treats right before everybody leaves in the

morning. This helps teach the children and the dog what are acceptable items to chew on and it lets

the children feel as if they are involved in the training process. Young children may not be able to

properly work with a dog in obedience but they can certainly be involved here. It also encourages

them to play with the dog with the appropriate toys, thus lessening the likelihood that nipping is

going to occur. Getting the whole family involved will increase the commitment level to the training

process.

When anyone greets the dog, they should give the dog one of the chew toys. Prior to departure,

the dog should be given a chew toy baited with a tasty food treat. The owner should be

instructed to make the chew toys a focal point in any interaction or game that is being played

with the dog. Help the owner teach the dog to fetch the chew toys. Have family members rub

their hands on the chew toys and constantly encourage the dog to play with these toys. Make

sure that the dog’s owners acknowledge him using a conditioned reinforcer every time he is

chewing on a proper chew toy.


Finally, make certain your clients understand not to draw their dog's attention to inappropriate items

by teasing him or by chasing him to get an inappropriate object from him. We do not want to turn it

into a game. If “catch me if you can” is already a behavior that the owners have inadvertently

encouraged, you will want to instruct them to have the dog drag a leash while supervised in the

house. Stepping on the leash the instant the dog attempts to initiate the chase game will allow the

owner to redirect the inappropriate behavior. As with most behavioral problems, positive

reinforcement for ceasing a problem behavior should not be the only time the dog is rewarded or


praised. Be sure to have the owner give the dog many opportunities throughout the day to earn the

owner’s praise so the dog does not learn to misbehave to receive attention.

Management of the Problem and Setting the Dog up to Succeed To effectively manage a dog being treating for inappropriate chewing, you must teach the owner to

set up an environment in which the dog has no chance of making improper chewing choices. The

dog or puppy must be prevented from chewing on inappropriate objects at all times, whether the

owner is present or not. Crates for inside dogs and dog runs for outside dogs provide areas where it

is impossible for a dog to chew on inappropriate objects. The key here is controlling the dog’s

environment.

Explain to your clients that they will probably not be able to leave their dog loose all day in the

backyard full of patio furniture until he has proven himself trustworthy for shorter periods of time (an

hour or so each day) for many weeks. Likewise, the dog will probably not be able to run freely

around the house when they are not at home. The dog will have to stay in the dog run or crate and

only be in the yard or house when the owner is home and can monitor the dog and encourage him

to make proper chewing choices. If you are working with a dog owner who works during the day

and has a young puppy that must be crated, the owner will need to make arrangements for the

puppy to be taken out so he can relieve himself while the owner is away.

Inform your clients that leaving an untrained dog loose in the house all day will produce results that

are similar to leaving an average two-year-old unattended in a house for hours at a time. It would

be, quite frankly, unsafe and foolish. Most people would never consider leaving a two-year-old

unattended because they would expect to arrive home to a situation in which the child would have

undoubtedly endangered herself and caused unbelievable damage to the house. Dogs, especially

once they get to be a few months old, are certainly as mobile as an average two-year-old and really

should not be given the type of freedom that many dog owners give their puppies. By

recommending the use of crates and dog runs until a dog is trained, you will be ensuring the safety

of the dog, creating a damage-controlled environment for the owners and eliminating the possibility

of the dog making improper choices. Most parents would agree that they put their children in

playpens and cribs for similar reasons.


Another way to set the dog up to succeed is to make inappropriate items less attractive or tasty by

treating the items with an anti-chewing deterrent. The anti-chewing deterrent must be applied


without letting the dog see you or the owner do it and prior to the dog having access to the item.

Bitter Apple spray is a popular anti-chewing deterrent and is quite distasteful to most dogs. Bitter

Apple is an alcohol-based repellent and must be reapplied at least once every 24 hours to assure

its effectiveness. Some anti-chewing deterrents are not alcohol-based (i.e., they are water-based

instead) and will last longer and have a different set of instructions for their use. Please make sure

to read and have the dog owner read the product directions thoroughly before using for the

optimum effectiveness. Let your clients know that they may have to experiment with several

different repellents to find one that works on their dog. There is also chewing-deterrent paste and

lotion that can be used on certain items. For example, electrical wiring is certainly something that

the dog should not chew on. Owners do not want to run the risk of the spray evaporating, so you

may suggest the purchase of a paste product. Deterrent paste does not evaporate and lasts much

longer. If you are working with a dog who is not repelled by the taste of the chewing deterrents,

some trainers may consider spraying it once into the dog's mouth. The dog will probably make a

bad face, drool excessively and rub his nose with his paws. This will most assuredly teach the dog

to have a very negative association with the smell and taste of the repellent. At that point, the owner

can feel free to re-spray the item that she wants to keep the dog from chewing.

A proper diet is another important component in managing inappropriate chewing. You might be

asking yourself, “how is diet a factor in dealing with chewing?” Well, dogs who are not receiving

proper nutrition, in other words, a puppy who has been put on adult dog food or a dog who is being

fed a diet that has insufficient nutrients, might look for what is missing in his diet by chewing on

inappropriate objects. Also, a dog who is being fed a strictly soft-food diet may not be getting

enough hard chewing activity during meal times and may resort to chewing on inappropriate objects

to stimulate healthy teeth and gums. Inform your clients to feed a quality kibble so the dog will not

have to look elsewhere for additional nutrients or stimulation. Most people would be very unsatisfied

with a liquid or soft-food diet, and so are most dogs.

Consequences for Inappropriate Chewing


There are many statistics and opinions about the reasons why dog owners give up on their dogs

and take them to the shelter. Chewing and other forms of destruction typically rank among the top

reasons for abandonment. It is important to recognize that dog owners rarely (if ever) relinquish

their dog to a shelter because he does not sit when asked. However, countless dogs are discarded

by their owners for chewing and destroying valuable household items. It is imperative that you

effectively treat this behavior problem as a life-or-death issue, because it just may be.


That being said, ABC believes that positively reinforcing a dog for chewing on appropriate items

and managing a dog’s environment are the only two components necessary in treating a chewing

problem. However, as a professional trainer you will undoubtedly encounter dog owners who will

not effectively manage the dog’s environment or spend enough time fixating the dog on the

appropriate chew toys. Because of this, their dog is going to make improper chewing choices. In

an effort to keep the dog from being relinquished to a shelter or banned to the lonely life of a

backyard dog, you will need to teach these clients how to react if they catch their dog engaging in

inappropriate chewing.

Tell your clients that if they see their dog chewing on something inappropriate, it is best to just walk

away, or better yet, run away from the dog. More often than not, this will intrigue the dog and cause

the dog to drop the object and run after the owner, consequently forgetting all about what they were

chewing on. When the dog is close enough, tell them to give him an appropriate toy instead. This

technique is extremely effective if the owners have worked, even a little, on fixating the dog on this

toy. Once the item has been replaced with an appropriate chew toy, the owner should then take the

inappropriate item out of the dog's sight and out of the dog's reach. This should discourage the dog

from finding the object again to chew on.

If your client's dog has grabbed something that she does not want him to have, chasing him all over

the house simply shows the dog that this is an excellent way to get attention. It also teaches the

dog that running away can result in victory, since most dogs can outrun most people. You may want

to suggest that the owner has the dog drag a leash in the house while he is supervised. This will

allow the owner to catch the dog by stepping on the leash and trade items without encouraging a

game of chase. You will find that an owner who will not follow your training advice may be

persuaded to do a few very simple things if they do not take much effort on their part. It is much

more humane for the dog to drag a leash while supervised than to be discarded in a local shelter for

chewing.


As a professional trainer, you will encounter clients who will not follow your advice no matter how

many different ways you present it. They do not spend the time necessary to teach their dog what

appropriate chew toys are. These same clients will forget to put away their expensive leather shoes,

allow the dog to chew rawhide strips, rope toys and fuzzy stuffed toys, give the dog more freedom

than he can handle and neglect to supervise the dog’s movement around the house. These dog

owners generally love their dog very much and either do not understand the ramifications of their


actions or simply do not have the time to work with their dog. Regardless, this situation is destined

for failure. If you find yourself in this situation, positive punishment techniques might need to be

considered in an effort to keep this dog from losing his home.

Instruct the owner to set her dog up so she can correct the dog in a way that the association is

made to the act of chewing and not to the owner or anyone else. If she can do this, she may have

an excellent opportunity to stop this behavior. Shaker cans, shriek alarms and squirt guns are

examples of tools that can be used to surprise the dog when the owner catches him chewing on

inappropriate items.

Important Note: Never use any training technique that involves “surprise” if you are working with a fearful dog or with a puppy during his fear imprint period.

If the owner is going to use a shaker can, it should simply be shaken and if thrown, only thrown in

the general direction of the dog, taking care never to hit the dog. A shriek alarm can be palmed in

the hand and simply blasted without saying anything to the dog, and a squirt gun can be used

provided that the owner is in range and that the dog connects it to the act of chewing and not to the

owner. The owner must correct the inappropriate chewing 100% of the time for these techniques to

have a chance at being successful. Keep in mind, that these techniques are a last resort and

should only be used in an effort to keep the dog from potentially losing his home.


Another exercise to consider when working with noncompliant dog owners is to set the dog up.

Prior to bringing the dog into a room, have the owner place approximately six inappropriate chew

items on the floor and one proper chew toy that the dog enjoys. Use many different inappropriate

things such as socks, shoes, children's toys, paper (dogs love to shred paper), the remote control,

Kleenex, a paperback book (hopefully one that has already been read) and even undergarments.

Next, instruct the client to equip herself with either a hidden pump spray bottle, squirt gun, shaker

can or shriek alarm. Position the owner in a way in which she can easily carry out the correction

when the dog touches any of the inappropriate items. The owner should be standing off to the side

and should not make any eye contact with the dog during this process. Now, bring the dog into the

room without a leash on. Nobody should say anything to the dog. Allow the dog to sniff and walk

around the room. If the dog takes the proper chew toy, the owner should give the conditioned

reinforcer. The instant the dog touches any of the inappropriate items on the floor or for that matter


any inappropriate item in the room, the owner should surprise the dog by squirting him, sounding

the shriek alarm, etc. This needs to be done in a way that the dog does not see the owner doing it.

You do not want the dog to conclude he only needs to avoid the inappropriate items when the

owner is standing in the room with a squirt gun. Have the owner repeat this exercise daily in

different rooms of the house.

As mentioned earlier, chewing will be most effectively and humanely addressed by supervising the

dog’s movement in the house and focusing the dog on the proper chew toys. Remember that it is

not realistic to expect to stop a dog from chewing altogether, so the owner will still have to work on

teaching the dog to focus on desirable chew toys.

Consistency in Dealing with Inappropriate Chewing Consistency is critical when working to curtail or eliminate behavior problems. A good trainer








Coprophagia (Stool Eating) This problem is one that clients are commonly embarrassed to bring up. You as the professional

should take it upon yourself to ask your clients about this problem. Say something like, “Some dogs

eat their own fecal matter. The technical term for this is Coprophagia. Does your dog have this

problem?” If the answer is yes, simply tell them it is common and the first step in correcting this

behavior is understanding why it occurs.

Treatment Plan for Coprophagia There are four components that need to be addressed when treating Coprophagia.



• Consequences for Coprophagia

• Consistency in Dealing with Coprophagia





instruction.

Understanding why Coprophagia Occurs Before the owners can begin treating this problem, they first need to understand why the problem

occurs. There are several reasons dogs engage in Coprophagia or stool eating.

• If the dog is being underfed, the dog may still be hungry which may lead to stool eating.

• If the dog is being fed a poor-quality food, he could be suffering from malnutrition and/or vitamin

and mineral deficiencies which could cause him to eat things in addition to his regular diet, such

as his own stool. If the dog is being fed too many treats during the day, he may be too full to

complete his balanced daily meal(s), which could lead to malnutrition and/or vitamin and

mineral deficiencies and an increased appetite at varying times of the day.

• If the dog has a medical problem that causes a decrease in the absorption of nutrients or

causes gastrointestinal upset, he may resort to stool eating.


• If the dog’s stool contains large amounts of undigested food materials, there is an increased


likelihood that the stool will be eaten. This is seen in dogs who have any type of medical

condition that leads to poor digestion of their food.

• If the dog has a medical problem or is taking medication for a problem which causes an

increase in appetite, the dog may resort to stool eating. Some examples might be: diabetes,

Cushing’s disease, thyroid disease, or any treatment involving steroids.

• The dog may eat his stool if he is being kept in too small of an area. Frequently, dog owners do

not clean out their dog runs often enough, and the feces gather up in this area. This can be very

stressful for the dog. Even in a large area, if the stools are not being picked up quickly enough,

that can lead to the problem of stool eating.

• If the dog is bored and does not have anything else to stimulate him, he might investigate his

feces out of boredom, begin playing with it and then possibly start eating it.

If the owners first address the possible causes of stool eating, they will probably be more successful

in eliminating the problem completely.

A dog suspected of having medical problems should be seen by

a veterinarian. The dog should receive a complete physical

examination, including evaluation of the stool and the frequency

of his bowel movements.

Positive Reinforcement of Alternate Behaviors In order to positively reinforce alternate behavior for stool eating, the owner will first need to create

an alternate behavior. To do this, the owner will need to be able to accurately predict when her dog

will eliminate so she can create an acceptable alternate behavior immediately following elimination.

To accurately predict when a dog will eliminate, it will be necessary for the owners to develop a

stool schedule for their dog. In order to create a stool schedule, the owners must confine the dog

whenever they are not home in an area small enough to prevent the dog from eliminating there.


Next, ask the owner to tether the dog to something while he is eating his daily meals. Tell the

owners to feed the dog the exact same food at the exact same time every day. Once he has

finished eating, instruct the owner to walk him over to his potty spot every 15 minutes until he

defecates. If the dog does not defecate within five minutes of being taken to the potty spot, have the


owner remove the dog from the potty spot and re-tether him. Make sure the owner keeps him on a

leash the entire time. This process should be continued until the dog defecates.

At the first indication of stool sniffing or investigation after he finally defecates, the dog should be

interrupted (not scared) and then asked to perform a known obedience cue or trick which can be

rewarded with something the dog really likes. The trick here is to make sure the owner is present

immediately following each elimination. This way, the unwanted behavior can be interrupted and the

alternate behavior of performing a known cue or trick can be positively reinforced.

Make sure to instruct the owners to keep a log of when the dog eliminates daily. After about two

weeks, the owner should be able to predict at what time the dog eliminates every day. At this time,

the owner can begin to give some freedom back to her dog. The owner should only need to monitor

the dog for the 30 minutes before and the 30 minutes after he is due to eliminate so she can

immediately interrupt any stool eating behavior.

Most dogs defecate once for each of the times they are fed plus one and have a fairly

predictable schedule of elimination. For example, if the dog is fed twice per day, it is likely that

he will defecate three times per day.

Management of the Problem and Setting the Dog up to Succeed Coprophagia that stems from the dog being kept in too small of an area and/or stools not being

picked up frequently enough is relatively easy to resolve. Even if the owners are unable to furnish a

larger area for the dog during the day, if they simply adjust and keep track of the dog's feeding and

elimination schedules, they can usually get an adult dog to produce two stools a day, one in the

morning before the owners leave for work and one in the evening when the owners arrive home.

This will allow the owners to pick up the feces immediately, thus eliminating the problem altogether.

Make sure you instruct owners not to pick up the feces in front of the dog. This will only draw

unwanted attention to the item you want the dog to avoid.


Coprophagia that stems from boredom is also relatively easy to correct. There are many ways to

make the area that the dog stays in more entertaining when he is left alone, such as using

interactive toys like Boomer Balls and Buster Cubes as well as a rotating a variety of chew toys and

hidden food treats. Providing the dog with sufficient exercise before placing him in his area will be

extremely helpful in treating this unwanted behavior as well.


Putting the dog on a premium kibble, one that is more digestible or one with different protein

sources may fix the problem altogether. In addition, limiting the amounts of non-nutritional food

treats and feeding the proper amounts of food at the proper time will assist in solving many dietary

motivations for stool eating. You might suggest that owners also feed their dog several times a day

instead of once per day to make sure the dog is getting all of his necessary nutrients and that he

does not get overly hungry between feeding times.

Dogs on restricted calorie diets may do better on a high bulk or high-fiber formula kibble. Some

dogs’ stool eating behavior may be improved by adding enzyme supplements to improve nutrient

digestion or absorption.

All in all, a high level of management will be required to resolve this behavior problem.

Consequences for Coprophagia There are a variety of products available through a veterinarian that can be used to treat

Coprophagia. A common one is called Forbid. Forbid is a product that is placed in the dog's food

that makes the dog’s stool unpalatable to the dog. Remember that if there are multiple dogs or

other animals in the home and the dog is eating their stools as well, all of those animals will need to

ingest the Forbid in their food as well. Make sure that the appropriate amount is put in the dog's

food daily for at least several weeks so that the dog is consistently convinced that stools taste bad.

Tell your clients to call their veterinarian to purchase Forbid and other recommended products of

this type to treat this problem.

Sometimes using the digestive enzymes in the form of a meat tenderizer (i.e., A1) may help

increase protein digestion, resulting in a less palatable stool. Advise clients to moisten the dog’s

food first and allow the product to sit on the food for 10 to 15 minutes to increase effectiveness.

There are some die-hard stool eaters that will not be cured with any of the above techniques. These

dogs should also be examined for possible pancreatic problems.

Consistency in Dealing with Coprophagia


As with all other unwanted behaviors, consistency plays a huge role in effective treatment of this

problem behavior. Since Coprophagia is a self-rewarding behavior for a dog, the dog will not


miss an opportunity to engage in the behavior if the opportunity presents itself. It is for this

reason that following the Treatment Plan consistently must be stressed to the dog owner.



Housetraining Housetraining or housebreaking is one of the more

common problems that dog owners must resolve. The

basic principles of housetraining are relatively simple,

although applying those principles to individual

circumstances can sometimes be a little tricky.

Treatment Plan for Housetraining There are four components that need to be addressed

when housetraining a puppy or dog.



• Consequences for Inappropriate Elimination

• Consistency in Dealing with Inappropriate Elimination

These four components are called the Treatment Plan. At this stage of your education, you

should be very familiar with the Treatment Plan. Because of this, ABC has opted to provide

housebreaking information to you by giving you Treatment Plan outlines for the most common

housebreaking situations you will encounter as an ABC Certified Dog Trainer. We will also give

you basic guidelines, crate-training instructions and a cursory overview of the four components

of the Treatment Plan as it pertains to housebreaking.

Positive Reinforcement of Alternate Behaviors In this case, the alternate behavior is eliminating in the correct area. The correct or desired potty

area should be selected by the owners with the help of their ABC Certified Dog Trainer.

Examples of desirable areas might be a puppy housebreaking pad by the back door or a certain

designated spot in the yard. Every time the owner takes the puppy to the potty spot and he

eliminates there, the owner should reward him. The puppy needs to understand that eliminating

in the correct spot is always a rewarding behavior.



One example of applying the management component of the Treatment Plan would be not


allowing the puppy to run loose in the house without continuous supervision. It is the owner’s

responsibility to be sure the puppy eliminates in the correct area, so whenever the puppy is in

the house, he should be on a leash and in the owner’s presence to avoid accidents.

Management of this behavior cannot be overemphasized. It is probably the single most

important component in a Treatment Plan.

Consequences for Inappropriate Elimination It is futile and counterproductive to spank a puppy or rub his nose in the urine and/or feces. This

will typically cause the puppy to be hesitant to eliminate in front of his owners. This makes

praising the puppy for going in the correct spot impossible because he is afraid to go in the

presence of his owners. In addition, many puppies will often learn to just sneak off into an out-

of-the-way place to avoid detection.

If an accident does occur, the owner should make an inconspicuous noise to startle the puppy,

without frightening him, and then immediately take him to his potty spot. The noise is intended

to interrupt him before he finishes going potty. When he resumes eliminating in the correct area,

the owner should praise and reward him for the proper behavior. If accidents are occurring in

the house, the owner needs to supervise the puppy more closely or it will take a very long time

to successfully housetrain him.

Consistency in Dealing with Inappropriate Elimination Consistency is critical when working to curtail or eliminate behavior problems, and housetraining

is no different. An ABC Certified Dog Trainer must help his or her clients develop good training

habits as soon as possible. Creating daily housetraining routines for a puppy in training will help

create consistency in behavior. Feeding the puppy at the same time every day, taking the puppy

to potty through the same door every day, and going to the same potty spot every time are all

good examples.

General Housebreaking Guidelines


1. Don't "punish" a dog for housebreaking accidents. It is counterproductive and will

frequently teach the dog some other unwanted behaviors. For example, if the owner

rubs her dog’s nose in his urine, yells, swats or berates him, the dog will just learn to

avoid eliminating near the owner. This will lead to the dog refusing to "go" when the

owner takes him out for a walk, and then sneaking off to "go" in another room, away


from the owner.

2. It is important to always clean up any "accidents" with an odor-neutralizing product such

as Nature’s Miracle. Soap and/or other cleaning products will not get rid of the odor, and

that increases the chance that the dog will relieve himself in the same area again.

3. If the dog is having difficulty with housebreaking or has coprophagia, the owner should

not allow the dog to see her cleaning up feces or urine. This is true for both accidents

and routine clean-up.

4. Whether housebreaking a puppy or an adult dog who has never been housebroken, take

the puppy or dog out immediately after each of the following events: waking up, getting

up from resting, drinking water, eating, playing, training, and actively sniffing.

5. Once the puppy has been "accident free" on the housebreaking schedule, the owner

must teach the puppy to hold his bladder a little past the time he may need to go. While

crate training helps develop a dog’s ability to hold his bladder, he must also learn to do

that even when he is loose in the house. By having the owner tie the pup close to her or

to a table leg at or near the time he is normally scheduled to be taken out, he will be

forced to "hold it" for a bit longer. The owner can also watch the puppy closely when he

is in the same room with her and when he starts to sniff, distract him for a few moments

by tossing a toy before taking him out.

Before teaching the puppy to hold his bladder, the puppy should be accident-free for a

minimum of 14 days in a row. Every “mistake” the puppy makes sets the owner back

three days. For example, if a puppy has been accident-free for eight days and then

makes a mistake on the ninth day, the owner must begin counting from the fifth day.

6. Puppies with housebreaking problems that persist for over a week with no reasonable

explanation should be examined by a veterinarian to rule out a medical reason for the

housebreaking difficulty. Adult dogs who are only having "accidents" of one kind or the

other (only urine or only feces) should also be examined.


7. No matter what the owner’s day-to-day schedule is, try to keep the days similar. Don't


allow the owner to have two totally different schedules on weekdays and weekends.

8. Instruct the owner to always take the dog or puppy out the same door to relieve himself

in the same area of the backyard. The owner should always calmly praise immediately

after elimination in the correct area. Praising the dog should be avoided while he is

eliminating as this may cause him to stop.

Many dog owners find it helpful to teach their dog to eliminate on cue. It is a terrific tool to use

when traveling with your pet. Owners should wait to begin teaching an elimination cue until they

have at least several days of a good elimination routine under their belt. They can then start

watching for indicators that the puppy is about to relieve himself (i.e., sniffing the ground,

circling). When the indicators present themselves in the bathroom area, they should say the cue

they wish to use to tell the puppy to eliminate (i.e., “outside” or “go potty”). They should try to

give the cue immediately before the puppy begins eliminating or once the puppy begins

eliminating. Saying the elimination cue too soon or too excitedly may be too distracting and

prevent the puppy from eliminating at that moment. Also, owners must be careful not to

misinterpret the elimination signs and give the cue when the puppy doesn’t actually have to go.

The owner should wait to praise the puppy until immediately after elimination to avoid getting

the puppy so excited that he stops eliminating. This tip is worth repeating.

Have the owner make an elimination log for the puppy. It may seem silly, but it is very helpful in

developing a routine. If owners know when their puppy is most likely to eliminate, they can

ensure that they always take him out at that time. If they see that there are certain times that

the puppy never or rarely goes, they can eventually skip taking him out at those times.

Owners can extend the number of hours the puppy can hold his bladder at night by:

• Withholding food and water a minimum of two to three hours before bedtime.

• Exercising the puppy sufficiently prior to bedtime to increase the likelihood of elimination

and to make him tired.

Owners can also increase the chance that the puppy won't have an accident in the crate by:


• Making sure the crate is small enough so the dog will not eliminate where he is forced to

lie.


A proper crate size is one that is approximately one and a half times the length of the

dog minus his tail and tall enough for the dog to stand up comfortably. A crate that is too

large will allow the puppy ample room to urinate in one corner and lie in another.

• Not providing absorbent material like towels and blankets for the dog to lie on in the

crate. He can urinate on it and then shove it in the corner.

Using the above tips, a puppy will most likely wake his owners by whining when he needs to go

potty. However, if the crate is too large or the puppy has absorbent material to urinate on, he will

have no reason to whine and wake his owners.

If the puppy has already been having accidents in the crate, he may have become desensitized

to lying in the urine-soaked crate. If this is the case, an alarm will need to be set in order to take

him out prior to any accident as part of the re-training process. Use the “rule of thumb” above as

a guideline during the retraining process.

It should never be assumed that the puppy has eliminated. Owners must witness the puppy

eliminating before he can be given “free time.” A very common mistake dog owners make is to

bring their puppy in the house after the puppy has been in the backyard for a while and give the

puppy “free time.” Dog owners assume that the puppy has probably gone potty because he

was in the backyard. This is a very risky assumption. You should instruct your clients to put the

puppy on a leash and walk him over to the potty area each and every time. If the puppy doesn’t

go potty at that time, the owner can bring the puppy in the house, but he must be confined.

If the puppy’s owners follow the instructions consistently, they should be able to get the puppy

to sleep at least six hours without any accidents within a week or so. That time can gradually be

stretched to eight, nine or 10 hours by the time the puppy is six months old. Remember, the

goal is to avoid accidents.



Crate Training Instructions Properly done, crate training can be an important tool for housebreaking. In addition, it can also

make the dog a better and happier companion. Since dogs are den animals, a crate can

become a comfortable, safe den for the dog. Some dogs will seek out den-like areas under

desks and behind furniture when a crate is not available. A crate can help with housebreaking,

re-ranking, separation anxiety, barking, and increased management within the house. A dog

who can be crated is also easier to travel with and easier to confine in the event of illness or

injury.

Once you begin your professional career as an ABC Certified Dog Trainer, you will undoubtedly

work with dog owners who are opposed to crate training because they think it is cruel to the

dog. Suggest to these dog owners that crate training their dog will provide their dog with a safe

place of his very own. Explain to them that providing a crate for their dog is just as necessary

from a safety standpoint as providing a crib or playpen for their baby or toddler.

For most situations, a molded plastic crate is best. This

crate is more enclosed than a wire crate which makes it

more like a den for the dog. Make sure that the crate is

the correct size for the dog. It should be one and a half

times longer than the dog’s body (not counting the tail)

and tall enough for him to stand up in comfortably.

The crate should be placed in a quiet but well-trafficked part of the house – not right next to the

front door and not in the basement. If the dog is housebroken and has been trained not to chew

on fabric, bedding can be placed in the crate. A chew toy or two should also be in the crate.


While the crate is an excellent tool, it should never be used as punishment. Be aware of the

dog’s age, temperament, training, emotional and physical state before determining the length of

time the dog is to be crated and recommending it to the owner. Some properly-trained and

properly-exercised adult dogs can be crated for eight to nine hours on occasion. You must be

even more cautious with puppies. Puppies usually should not be crated longer than the number

of months old they are plus one. This means that a two-month-old puppy should not be crated

more than three hours, even in the best situations where he has been properly exercised, has

eliminated and has plenty of chew toys.


To get a dog or puppy accustomed to a crate, have the owner take a day or so to place treats

and toys in the crate and just allow him to enter the crate to get them. The owner may also set

his food bowl at the back of the crate and allow him to eat in the crate with the door open. After

a few days, the puppy should be given a lot of exercise late in the evening so he is really tired.

His last meal and water should be provided three to four hours prior to bedtime and he should

be given a wonderful new chew toy. When the owners are ready to go to bed and the house will

be dark and quiet, the tired puppy should be given his last chance to eliminate. The owner

should then take him to the crate, place him in it, give him the new chew toy, turn out the lights

and go to bed. The owners may want to keep the crate in their bedroom until he is properly

crate-trained so you can quiet him if he is fussing or complaining or take him out if he truly

needs to eliminate.

Take into consideration the puppy’s age and the housebreaking schedule to determine if he

needs to go out in the middle of the night. The puppy should not be let out of the crate if he's

just complaining about being in the crate. That will teach him that if he barks and cries enough,

his owners will eventually let him out. The puppy’s fussing and complaining should be ignored if

he truly doesn't need to eliminate. For most puppies, ignoring them works better because just

having the owner come over to them to do anything (like saying “No!”) is rewarding to them!

If the puppy has been properly prepared to be in the crate, then he should be so tired with a

nice chew toy and an empty bladder that he will just fall asleep. Remember that he should not

be put to bed in the crate if the rest of the household is still up.

Once a dog or puppy has been properly desensitized to a crate, it can be used as a tool for

many of the behavior problems mentioned earlier:

• To help with housebreaking – The crate can help the owner use the dog’s natural

denning instincts and aversion to soiling his den to motivate him to “hold it” while in the

crate.

• To help with separation anxiety – The crate can be used to slowly develop a “safe”

area for the dog to start being able to be left alone. The periods of time the dog is asked

to be in the crate must be below the dog’s threshold for anxious behavior.


• To help with Management – The crate can be a “playpen” where the dog can be kept


for short periods of time when the owner cannot watch the dog closely enough to ensure

that the dog will not have a housebreaking accident or “practice” unwanted behaviors in

the house.

• To help with re-ranking – The crate could be used to establish and maintain social

order in the human/canine family. By assigning the crate as a resting and sleeping

station for the dog at appropriate times during the day, the owner will communicate

control and leadership to the dog.

• To help with barking – The crate makes it easy to teach the dog that being quiet is a

rewarding behavior and that when he is quiet, he earns freedom. Dogs quickly

understand the link between falling silent and getting out.

• To help with general lack of self-control – The crate can be used to show the dog that

when he stops complaining (barking, whining, fussing, pawing) and gets control over

himself, he earns freedom.



Treatment Plan Outlines for Common Housetraining Situations

The following are some examples of schedules for housebreaking in different situations and

with different-aged puppies.

This is the age at which most dog owners obtain their new puppy. It is important to establish

clear guidelines from the start. Therefore, as soon as the owners bring their new puppy home, it

is best for them to take the puppy directly to the bathroom area they want him to use to help him

develop proper bathroom habits from the beginning.

Take the Puppy to the Potty Area – Instruct the owners to take him to the bathroom area and

give him five minutes to relieve himself.

If the Puppy Eliminates - If he "goes" (urinates or defecates) within the first five minutes, the

owners should praise him and/or give him a treat. Now, the puppy should be given another 10

minutes to eliminate again before he is brought inside. For example, if the puppy goes potty two

minutes after being taken to the designated area, the owners should wait 10 more minutes for a

total of 12 minutes to make sure the puppy’s bladder and bowels are empty. Sometimes the

puppy will eliminate again and sometimes he will not. Many dog owners make the mistake of

bringing the puppy back into the house immediately after he goes potty the first time without

giving the puppy time to eliminate again. This is a huge mistake because a lot of puppies do not

empty themselves completely in just one squatting. It is extremely important to give the puppy

the additional 10 minutes. Giving the puppy an extra 10 minutes after eliminating will also

discourage him from holding it until he returns to the house. Some puppies learn that the walk

and fun are over and that they go directly into the house after eliminating. If they want to play

outside, they may hold it until they are in the house so they do not miss a single minute of

outside playtime. Once the owners have waited 10 minutes, they can be confident the puppy is

empty and not associating the end of his fun with eliminating outside.



Now there are three options:

• Provide Supervised Free Time – The owners can give the puppy 30 minutes of

supervised “free time” in the house. Make sure the puppy is monitored the entire 30

minutes. The chances of a puppy having an accident during the first 30 minutes

immediately after going potty are almost nonexistent; however, they increase

dramatically after 30 minutes. After “free time,” the puppy should either be taken back

outside to the designated potty area the whole process repeated again or the owners

should immediately restrict the puppy’s freedom by crating or tethering him. Remember

that the more often the puppy is taken out to the potty area, the more opportunities there

are to praise him for going potty in the correct place.

• Crate the Puppy – The owners could put the puppy in a crate that is approximately one

and a half times the length of the puppy, not including his tail. This option should be

selected when the owners need to leave the house for a while or are too busy to

supervise the puppy. A general rule of thumb during the daytime is that a puppy can be

expected to hold his urine the number of months old he is, plus one. Therefore, a two-

month-old puppy could be expected to hold his urine for approximately three hours. As

soon as possible, the puppy should be taken out of the crate and over to the potty area.

• Tether the Puppy – The owner can tether the puppy to a piece of furniture or to her

wrist using a short four-foot leash. This option requires less monitoring than giving the

puppy “free time” and is a good option if the owner plans on staying primarily in one

room with the puppy. Here too, a puppy can be expected to hold his urine the number of

months old he is, plus one. Therefore, a two-month-old puppy could be expected to hold

his urine for approximately three hours. However, if the owner notices any intense

sniffing or circling, the puppy should immediately be taken to his potty area..


If the Puppy Does not Eliminate – If the puppy does not eliminate after the first five minutes,

he should be brought in and kept confined in a small area. A small area is defined as a properly-

sized crate or a small, almost crate-sized exercise pen, or tethered on-leash with the owners’

eyeballs glued to him. Keep taking him out to his potty area every 15 to 30 minutes until he

eliminates. An egg timer is an excellent way to keep track of the time. 15 to 30 minutes goes by

very quickly and it is easy to lose track of time.


Introduce a Potty Cue – After a few days, the owners can start using an elimination word to

signal what they would like the dog to do. They will be teaching the dog to eliminate on cue.

This can be very useful later in the dog’s life if his owners’ schedules change or they choose to

travel with the dog. To teach the elimination word, simply wait for the puppy to squat down to go

potty. As the puppy is eliminating, say “Go potty.” The instant he finishes and stands up, give

the conditioned reinforcer and a treat or play a favorite game (unconditioned reinforcer).

Sample Schedule for a Two- to Four-Month-Old Puppy

6 a.m. – The owner wakes up and instantly takes the puppy out. Carrying the puppy may be

necessary to ensure that he can make it all the way to the potty area. If the owners do not carry

the puppy, make sure they put a leash on the puppy before they let him out of the crate. They

should go out the same door each time and give the puppy five minutes to eliminate. Once he

eliminates, he should be given another 10 minutes. Remember to have the owner begin using

the elimination cue after a few days. Since this is occurring first thing in the morning, we are

going to assume that the puppy does relieve himself by urinating and defecating.

6:15-6:30 a.m. – The puppy is brought inside, and since he did eliminate, he is given 10 to

30 minutes of "free" time. Initially, "free time” means the owner is holding the leash and

watching the puppy 100% of the time. When the puppy has some house manners, the owner

can drop the leash when she is in the same room with the puppy. This gives the owner the

opportunity to positively reinforce the calm, quiet attitude she wants the puppy to have in the

house with attention, praise and treats. Doing obedience during this ''free time” also helps build

house manners. If the owner wants to play with the puppy, it is best to go outside, or keep the

play confined to one particular room. The owner may also prepare the puppy’s food during this

time.

6:30-6:40 a.m. – The puppy is taken out again. Whether or not he eliminates, the puppy

should be brought into the house and the owner should get ready to feed him. If he did not go

potty, he should be fed in the crate or watched very closely.


6:40-6:45 a.m. – The puppy is fed. Have the owner make him wait for the release word before

eating. The directions on how to properly teach a puppy to wait for his meal are in the Learning


Theory stage under Leadership Exercises. He should be given 10 to 20 minutes to eat and drink

and he should not be allowed to wander off.

6:45-7:00 a.m. – The puppy is taken outside the instant he finishes eating or takes a

break from eating. The puppy will probably eliminate. If he does, the owner praises him and

brings him inside for 15 to 30 minutes of on-leash "free" time. Especially after eating, he should

be allowed an extra 10 minutes outside if he eliminates within the first five minutes.

7:00-7:30 a.m. – The puppy is provided free time. During this free time, the owner may just

want the puppy to be allowed to follow her around on-leash to investigate and learn how to "be"

inside. The owner may want to play more in the backyard or take the puppy for a walk.

7:30-7:45 a.m. – The puppy is tethered when free time is over. The puppy lies down to rest

and watch the owner get dressed.

7:45-8:00 a.m. – The is taken puppy out. The puppy must be taken out because he got up

from resting. The puppy eliminates.

8:00-8:30 a.m. – The puppy is given free time because he went potty. The owner does

some training with the puppy. The puppy drinks some water after playing or doing obedience.

8:30-8:35 a.m. – The puppy is taken out. The puppy does not eliminate.

8:35-9:35 a.m. – The puppy is put in his crate with a chew toy.

9:35-9:50 a.m. – The puppy is taken outside. The puppy eliminates.

9:50-11:00 a.m. - The puppy is left in the backyard to play and investigate. The owner does

five to 10 minutes of obedience training. She does not assume that the puppy went potty while

playing and investigating in the backyard. The owner takes the puppy to his potty area for a

chance to eliminate before bringing him in. The puppy eliminates.


11:00-11:30 a.m. – The puppy is brought in for monitored free time.


11:30-11:35 a.m. – The puppy is taken outside. Puppy does not eliminate.

11:35-12:00 p.m. – The puppy is brought in and fed and watered in his crate.

12:00-12:15 p.m. – The puppy is taken out. The puppy eliminates.

12:15-2:15 p.m. - The puppy is brought in and put in his crate. The owner runs errands.


2:30-3:00 p.m. – The puppy is brought in. The puppy gets 30 minutes of “free time” in the

house. The owner practices obedience and plays with puppy.

3:00-3:05 p.m. – The puppy is taken out. The puppy does not eliminate.

3:05-4:00 p.m. – The puppy is tethered. Since the puppy did not eliminate, the owner keeps

him on-leash and tethered to a piece of furniture and closely observes him.


4:05- 4:45 p.m. – The puppy is put in his crate.

4:45-5:00 p.m. – The puppy is taken out. The puppy goes potty.

5:00-5:30 p.m. – The puppy is given 30 minutes of free time.


5:35-6:00 p.m. – The puppy is brought in on-leash and is fed and watered.




6:05-7:00 p.m. – The puppy is left outside to play until 7:00 p.m. Before the owner brings

the puppy in at 7:00, he is taken over to the potty area. The puppy eliminates.

7:00-7:30 p.m. – The puppy is given 30 minutes of free time.

7:30-7:35 p.m. – The puppy is taken out. The puppy does not eliminate. The owner gives the

puppy a chance to drink water for the last time this evening.

7:35-8:00 p.m. – The puppy is brought in. The puppy is crated or watched very closely on-

leash since he did not eliminate.


8:05-9:00 p.m. – The puppy is brought in and tethered in the family room where everyone

is watching TV. The owner gives the puppy proper chew toys and praises him for chewing

them. She spends at least 20 minutes playing with the puppy with his chew toys.


9:05-9:45 p.m. – The puppy is brought in for closely-monitored, on-leash free time. The

owner drops the leash because the puppy gets very wild with a sudden burst of energy. The

owner plays with the puppy in kitchen (the designated play room of the house). Suddenly, the

puppy moves away and starts to sniff. "Oops!” The puppy has an "accident" in the kitchen

because the owner went over the prescribed 30-minute free time schedule!

9:45-9:50 p.m. – The puppy has an "accident" in kitchen. The owner claps hands to interrupt

him and puppy stops "mid-stream".

9:50- 9:55 p.m. – The puppy is taken outside to see if he will finish out there.

9:55-9:55 p.m. – The puppy is put to bed (crated) for the evening.


9:55-10:00 p.m. – The owner cleans up the urine on kitchen floor with odor neutralizer


and cleaner.

4:00-4:15 a.m. – The puppy wakes his owners up by whining. Since this is probably a time

the puppy really needs to eliminate and is not just whining to complain, the owner takes the

puppy out. The puppy eliminates. The owner puts the puppy back to bed in his crate.

6:00-6:15 a.m. – The process is started all over again. The owner gets up and lets puppy out

instantly.

In this case, the owners would follow everything outlined in Situation #1 all the way through until

the 7:45-8:00 a.m. time when they would take the puppy out for the last time before they leave.

Since they cannot come back until noon and since the puppy is only eight weeks old and

probably cannot hold his bladder/bowels for four hours, they need to set up an area for the

puppy to stay in until they come back. Suggest that these owners put the puppy’s crate inside

an exercise pen and place the exercise pen close to the door the owners use to take the puppy

out. They should leave the crate door open and leave the puppy a limited amount of water (but

no food) inside the exercise pen. The owners should put a baited chew toy in the crate and

place puppy potty pads in the exercise pen as close to the door as possible. When the puppy is

about three months old, he can be expected to hold his bladder/bowels inside for the required

four hours until the owners arrive home. At that time, the puppy should be put in the crate with a

chew toy and no food or water, and the door should be closed.

12:00-12:15 p.m. – The puppy is taken to the potty area. The puppy eliminates.


12:15-12:30 p.m. – The puppy is fed and watered.


12:30-12:45 p.m. – The puppy is taken to the potty area. The puppy eliminates. The owner

leaves the puppy in the yard while she removes the soiled puppy pads and replaces them with

clean ones.

12:45-5:45 p.m. – The puppy is put back in the same set-up from the morning. The puppy

probably will not be able to hold it until the owners arrive home until he is approximately three

months old.

5:45-6:00 p.m. – When the owners arrive home, they immediately take the puppy out. He

may or may not eliminate depending upon when he last went before the owners got home.

6:00 p.m. – The owners follow the previously-outlined schedule from 6:00 p.m. onwards

throughout the evening.


The owners should be instructed to follow the same schedule for someone who can come home

in the middle of the day with the puppy kept inside (Situation #2). The owner just needs to make

sure the puppy is taken over to the potty area before being brought into the house. If the puppy

does not go potty at that time, the owners must monitor him very closely.


The owner should follow the same schedule outlined in Situation #3 and realize that this puppy

may try to "hold it" during the day because of the small exercise pen area with crate inside.

However, because of the length of time, he will eventually just go on the puppy potty pads. As

the puppy gets older, he will eventually be able to hold his bladder/bowels all day long and the

owner will be able to remove the puppy potty pads.

This is basically the same situation as Situation #4, but at least the puppy will be relieving

himself outside.

The owner may start to reduce the number of times she takes the puppy out and take the puppy

out at times she knows he will be more inclined to eliminate anyway. Instruct the owner to pay

attention to the “Potty Log” that she has been keeping so she can predict the times the puppy is

likely to eliminate.



The owners should continue to keep the puppy either on-leash or in the same room with them

every second the puppy is in the house. They should watch the puppy very closely for any

sniffing or moving away from people or moving to the center of the room. If this occurs at a time

other than a scheduled time to take the puppy out, the owners should distract the puppy by

throwing a ball or toy or crating him with a chew toy. Doing something to keep his attention will

act as a natural incentive for him to "hold it.” The owner must not yell at the puppy or scare him.

It will only make the puppy leery of eliminating near his owners. If the owners see that gentle

distraction has not changed the puppy's intent to eliminate right then, it is better for them to take

the puppy out rather than for him to have an accident.

Teaching a puppy to "hold it" is an important part of housetraining that is often missed. The

puppy needs to develop the ability to "hold it" while in the house if he cannot get out

immediately. The owners should begin by just distracting the puppy a few moments at first. Over

the next few weeks, they should distract him for longer periods of time.


As the puppy gets closer to six months old, the owners may be able to keep the puppy in the

crate from 8:00 to 12:15 if the puppy is getting plenty of exercise and has a good chew toy in the

crate. This will provide the puppy with four fewer hours to eliminate on the puppy potty pads in

the exercise pen (which happens to be in the house).


When the owner comes home at lunchtime, she should immediately take the puppy straight to

the potty area and then maybe for a short walk or playtime.

This puppy is obviously going to have to continue to relieve himself on the puppy potty pads in

his exercise pen by the back door. When the owners get home, they should take the puppy

outside to allow him to relieve himself in his bathroom area before bringing him back in.

This puppy will obviously relieve himself whenever he feels the need during the day. When the

owners get home, they should take the puppy over to his bathroom area and encourage the

puppy to relieve himself before bringing him inside. If he does not eliminate, the owners should

keep the puppy on-leash with them for the first 15 to 30 minutes inside and take him out again

before giving any more on-leash free time in the house.



At six months of age, the puppy can start to have more freedom in the house. However, the

owners still need to take the puppy out upon waking and after breakfast. After that, most six-

month-old puppies can "hold it" until noon. It would be wise for the owners to keep the puppy in

the same room with them while he is in the house. This way, they can immediately interrupt (not

scare) the puppy for any sniffing behavior or other unacceptable in-house behavior (bothering

the cat, getting up on furniture, chewing plants, shoes, furniture etc.). They should take the

puppy out at noon and make sure he has sufficient opportunity to eliminate several times. Most

puppies should have their noon meal eliminated by six months of age.

The puppy should now be able to stay inside with his owners until 6:00 p.m. if necessary. It is

not recommended that a puppy or dog be with his owners constantly or in the owners’ presence

the entire time they are home. Even if the puppy can "hold it" and does have some house

manners, he should spend some alone time outside or in his crate every day to help avoid

developing separation anxiety.

The owners should take the puppy out before and after dinner and again before bedtime. If the

owners don't want to leave the puppy outside when they have to leave the house, a properly-

trained six-month-old puppy can be left in his crate for up to six hours (if the puppy has been

properly exercised and taken out and given a proper chew toy).


It is also very helpful to give the puppy a way to ask to go outside. The most successful and

least annoying method for the owners would be to teach the puppy to ring a bell. Start by

hanging a bell on the door the owners use to take the puppy outside to relieve himself. The bell

should hung so the puppy can reach it with his nose. The owners should encourage the puppy

to touch the bell with his nose before every trip outside. He will soon discover that the bell is the

remote door opener; all he has to do is ring the bell when he needs to go outside and his

owners will open the door for him. This will help eliminate accidents in the house and may help


prevent a mess if the dog has an unexpected or emergent bowel movement.

Until the puppy has proven that he can be trusted to be alone in the house, he should be kept in

his crate (for up to six hours) or exercise pen inside by the back door. The puppy potty pads can

be taken up to help encourage the puppy to "hold it" while the owners are gone. The puppy will

probably be excited when his owner arrives home in the middle of the day to let him out. The

owner should refrain from any interaction or play with the puppy until he knows that he must go

out and relieve himself first.


It will be more difficult to get the puppy to eliminate in the designated bathroom area in this

situation. However, the owners can still take the puppy to the potty area and show him that

going to the bathroom first, before any interaction or play, is a rewarding behavior.


There are some adult dogs who can eventually "hold it" for up to 13 hours. However, if the

owners are going to be gone that long and the dog does not have access to the backyard, they

will need to leave the puppy potty pads in the exercise pen by the back door, just in case. Have

the owners gradually expand the puppy’s exercise pen but always keep it up against the door

they take the puppy out of to eliminate. They can eventually give the puppy the entire room.


If the owners are sure the puppy has developed dependable house manners, they can

eventually give him run of the entire house. The biggest mistake owners make with the

completion of housetraining is overlooking the dog’s "accidents.” One "accident" is reason

enough to take several steps backward in housetraining process. If they transition from the

exercise pen to giving the puppy the entire kitchen and the puppy decides to urinate on the floor

mat in front of the sink instead of the puppy potty pads by the back door, the puppy immediately

loses that freedom. The owners should clean the "accident” with an enzyme product and revert

to the previous level of freedom (smaller exercise pen) for several days to a week. During that

time, they should watch the puppy closely when he is in that area and interrupt any sniffing in

that area. After several days to a week, they may give the puppy the run of the entire kitchen

again. They should only allow the puppy to keep that freedom if there are no "accidents" or

damage. They should continue to work on teaching the puppy to "hold it" in the rest of the

house.


This dog has no reason not to relieve himself during the day since he is loose in the backyard.

When the owners arrive home at the end of the day, they should take the dog over to his

bathroom area so they can reward him for relieving himself in the potty area before he comes in

the house. If they bring the dog in before he has eliminated, they must keep him in the same

room with them and take the dog outside again in 15 minutes. They should not allow the dog

any freedom in the house until they have seen him eliminate outside.




Common Problems Encountered With Housetraining

An adult dog has a lapse

in housetraining due to

his owners moving to a

new house.

• Have the owners revert to a very high level of management.

• Have the owners keep the dog on-leash in the house.

• The owners must make sure the dog is taken out the same door

each time he goes to relieve himself.

• The owners must make sure the dog is comfortable in the

backyard so he can relax sufficiently to relieve himself. They

should play with the dog and feed him in the backyard.

• The owners should make sure there is not anything that may

frighten or startle him (loud noises, seeing the neighbors’ dogs,

etc.).

• Instruct the owners to reward the dog with praise and food treats

for relieving himself in the backyard.

• Have the owners slowly give the dog more freedom in the house

as you would advise with a new puppy. They must treat any

accidents with an odor neutralizer or enzyme product and not

punish the dog.

• Advise the owners to treat all carpets and floors with an odor

neutralizer. The previous owner may have had a dog who

eliminated in the house which is causing your client’s dog to

eliminate in the house as well.

An adult dog only has

"accidents" when the

owner’s boyfriend/

girlfriend stays over.

This is a common problem as the dog sees the visitor who gets so

much attention and closeness with the owner as a threat to his status

in the pack. Since the dog is probably forcing “accidents” as a way to

re-establish his high rank after perceiving a threat to his status, he

needs to go through a re-ranking program using all the techniques

outlined in the Learning Theory stage under Leadership Exercises.

• The owner should implement the No Free Lunch Policy and work

the dog daily in obedience, both in and out of the house. The

visiting boyfriend or girlfriend should also work the dog in

obedience and not give the dog any "free" attention.

• Of course, any "accidents" should be cleaned with an odor




neutralizer and the dog should not be punished. The owner should

increase management during possible accident times until the dog

has proven himself trustworthy.

An adult neutered male

dog only periodically

"marks". This means the

dog only sprays a few

drops of urine and does

not fully relieve himself

in the house.

First, make sure this dog has in fact been neutered. If the dog is a

cryptorchid (i.e., his testicles have not descended), he will look like a

neutered male. However, he will mark like an intact male since he has

hidden testicles.

• If the dog has been neutered, he should be re-ranked using all the

techniques outlined in the Learning Theory stage under

Leadership Exercises.

• The owner must increase management while the dog is in the

house.

• All affected areas must be cleaned with an odor neutralizer and

any “accidents” should not be punished.

• As the owners gradually give him back tiny amounts of freedom in

the house, they should watch for and interrupt any sniffing or

inching up to vertical objects.

• Most of the time the dog is in the house, he should be doing some

form of obedience. There should be lots of Down-Stay work in any

of the areas he has marked and he should eat his meals in those

areas also. For severe cases, a veterinarian may prescribe anti-

anxiety medication.

• If there are multiple dogs in the household, the Leadership

Exercises and obedience training for all dogs should be applied to

help stabilize their relationships. If there is one particular area the

dog marks, the owner may also spray the area with an indoor

repellent to repel the dog away from that area.

• The dog must not be allowed to urinate or defecate on walks. This

only encourages the marking behavior. The dog should only be

allowed to eliminate in a designated area of his yard.




An adult intact male dog

only periodically "marks"

in the house.

Implement the same program outlined in the preceding problem and

tell the owner to have the dog neutered. If this is an older male dog,

the owners should also have the veterinarian check his prostate gland.

An adult male or female

dog occasionally

defecates in the house.

• This dog should be checked by a veterinarian for worms and

colitis. If the veterinarian gives the dog a clean bill of health,

consider recommending that the owner switches the dog to a low-

residue diet prescribed by a veterinarian.

• The owners should start a regular housetraining routine and put

the dog on a feeding schedule and specific potty schedule.

• Make sure the dog is comfortable and not fearful of anything out in

the backyard. He must be relaxed enough to relieve himself in the

proper area. Also, have the owners make the dog’s relieving

himself in the proper area a rewarding behavior.

• A “general rule” is that most dogs defecate within 90 minutes after

meal time and defecate at least one time for each time they are

fed. Once the owner has an idea of the dog’s elimination

schedule, she can require that the dog eliminates before being

brought inside. Some dogs may need to be tied out in the

bathroom area until they eliminate to prevent them from hovering

at the back door.

• The owner can also try feeding the dog while he is tethered away

from his potty area and then taking him to the potty area every 20

minutes until he defecates. This will help to determine his

elimination schedule.

• Remind the owner to clean all affected areas with an odor

neutralizer or enzyme product, not to punish and to increase

management to avoid "accidents" until the problem is resolved.




A puppy or dog has

already been punished

for accidents and will not

relieve himself in the

presence of the owners.

• First, the owner must stop punishing the puppy.

• Second, she must increase management and clean all affected

areas with an odor neutralizer or enzyme product.

• Third, the owner should start to get the puppy used to relieving

himself near the owner so the owner can praise and treat the

puppy for eliminating in the proper area. The owner will probably

need to get either a long line or a retractable leash so the puppy

can initially get far enough away from the owner to feel safe. The

owner can slowly start to reduce the distance until the puppy feels

comfortable. Once the puppy starts to discover that the owner is

rewarding this behavior and never punishes for it, progress should

be rapid. Keeping this puppy on-leash until he is retrained is

crucial since the puppy will be very good at sneaking into another

room away from the owner to relieve himself.

A young female puppy

who was housebroken

for a while is now having

accidents and the

owners are doing

everything correctly.

This puppy should be examined by a veterinarian. Female puppies

can get vaginal and/or bladder infections that will make it very difficult

for them to hold their urine. Male puppies can also get urinary tract

infections but it is less common because of their anatomy. If the puppy

has opaque, whitish, or bloody discharge from the urinary tract or

frequent or painful urination or straining, the puppy should be

examined by a veterinarian immediately.

A young puppy (male or

female) only has loose

stool accidents.

This puppy should be examined by a veterinarian for parasite

infestation, gastrointestinal disturbances or viral infections like Parvo

or Corona virus.

A spayed female dog (six

to seven years old) starts

dribbling urine,

sometimes on her bed or

other places she has

been resting.

This dog should be examined by a veterinarian to see if the lining of

her bladder has become thinner due to age and/or lack of estrogen.

This can make it more difficult for the dog to "clamp down" sufficiently

to completely close off the bladder. There are inexpensive medications

available to help this relatively common problem in older spayed

female dogs.



An adult dog who is

housebroken now asks

to go out more frequently

and urinates only a little

each time.

This dog should be examined by a veterinarian for possible bladder

infection, bladder stones or "crystals.”

An elderly dog who has

been housebroken his

entire life now appears to

"forget" how to get

outside and is having

"accidents.”

This dog should be examined by a veterinarian. It is possible for

geriatric dogs to become senile or have other medical problems that

can affect their bathroom habits. There are medications available that

have both anti-anxiety and analgesic effects. Sometimes a higher level

of management and a stricter feeding and watering schedule is

necessary and possibly a low-residue diet. There are also ways to

mark the way out of the house with a particular scent like inexpensive

perfume for dogs who are losing their sight or becoming forgetful.



Answers to Commonly-Asked Housetraining Questions This question-and-answer section is designed to give ABC Certified Dog Trainers sample

responses to the most common questions or difficulties that owners have while trying to

housebreak their dogs. Keep in mind that every answer you give to an owner should be

phrased in a manner that does not offend or chastise the owner. Offending the owner will not

help the dog and may even earn you a bad reputation.

Question We take our puppy outside to eliminate and he will not do anything, but when we bring

him in, he sneaks off when we are not looking and eliminates in another room. What can

we do?

Answer • Make sure the owner only gives the puppy five minutes to go potty. If he does not eliminate

within five minutes, he should be brought in the house and confined. Some owners give the

dog way too much time to eliminate and the dog quickly learns that their owners will “hang

out” with them in the backyard until they go potty. These dogs learn to hold it to keep the

owner with them and then urinate in the house when brought back in.

• Ask your client, “What has your response been to the ‘accidents’?” Advise the client not to

rub his nose in it, yell at him or drag him outside because that will only make him wary of

relieving himself near his owners.

• Improve the owner’s management of in-house time. Especially if a dog has been punished

for housetraining accidents, he will need to be watched very closely and even kept on-leash

with the owner holding the leash or in a crate until he is properly housebroken.

• Advise the owner to put the dog on a stricter feeding schedule. Make sure the dog is given

food and water at the same times each day. Keeping a log of the dog’s elimination patterns

can help the owner establish a routine.


• Remind the owner to make the dog’s relieving himself in the correct area a rewarding

behavior. Advise the owners to be calm and ignore the dog so he can focus on eliminating,


not on his owners. They should calmly praise after elimination and make sure that he goes

out the same door each time to the designated bathroom area.

• If the owner has been punishing him, she may need to take him out on a long line for a

while. This will allow him to get far enough away from the owner so he feels comfortable

enough to eliminate.

• If he just sits and looks up at his owner when she takes him out, have her toss some treats

in the grass to get him started sniffing and not look at him. The owner’s eye contact may be

too distracting or intimidating for him.

Question My dog is only having a few accidents at night. Is confinement truly necessary?

Answer • Yes. Have the owner describe proper confinement to you (i.e., small enough, with no

absorbent material inside).

• Instruct the owner to adjust the dog’s feeding and watering schedule. She should withhold

water for two to three hours before bedtime and make sure the puppy is not being overfed.

• Make sure the owner is setting the puppy up to succeed. She can increase the chance for

better elimination before bedtime by making sure the dog has enough activity, followed by

quiet time so the dog can relax and eliminate in his bathroom area.

• Remember the number of months old plus one rule. The owner should not ask the puppy to

"hold it" longer than what is realistic.

• The dog must be taken out to eliminate for the last time as late as possible. That means

minutes before bedtime, not an hour before bedtime.


• Tell the owner to have a veterinarian check for any medical reasons the dog may not be

able to "hold it" throughout the night.


Question What do I do if my dog eliminates in confinement?

Answer • Ensure that proper confinement is being used. Have the owner describe the confinement

that she is using. Is it small enough? Is it free of any absorbent material? Has the feeding

and watering schedule been adjusted? Is the owner using proper techniques to encourage

the dog to eliminate before bedtime?

• Have the owner clean the crate using an odor neutralizer while preventing the dog from

observing clean-up.

• Have the owner take the dog to the vet to make sure he is healthy and does not have

vaginitis or worms. On rare occasions, the dog may need medication to improve his ability to

"clamp down" the sphincter muscles.

• Help the owner to calculate a reasonable amount of time for the puppy to be confined

(number of months old plus one). For example: a four-month-old puppy can be expected to

hold his urine for five hours because 4+1 = 5. Make sure the owners are not asking the

puppy or dog to "hold it" for an unreasonable amount of time. Note: this rule can be

stretched at night by restricting water several hours before bedtime, exercising the puppy to

tire him out, making sure he has relaxed enough to completely eliminate, confining him in

the correct size crate, etc.

• Recommend that the owner sets an alarm to get up prior to the standard amount of time the

puppy can typically hold it during the night. If confinement occurs during the day, the owner

must come back to let the dog out within a reasonable amount of time.

• Make sure the owner is rewarding the puppy or dog for going in the correct area.

• Have the owner remove any absorbent material inside the crate until the problem has been

corrected for a substantial amount of time (several weeks).



• The crate should be enclosed in an exercise pen. Assist the owner in making sure that the

exercise pen is small enough to only allow enough room for a puppy potty pad to be placed

directly in front of the crate. This way, the only options the puppy has are to be in the crate

or be on the puppy potty pads.

• Make sure the owner actually sees the dog eliminate. Some owners just let the dog out in

the backyard and don't watch him. They think the dog is eliminating, but they don't know for

sure because they are not watching.

• Ask the owner, “Where is the designated bathroom area and where is it in relation to the

house, where the dog is eliminating now, where the dog plays, where the dog sleeps, and

where the dog eats?” Dogs usually do not want to relieve themselves on nonabsorbent

material like cement or in areas too close to where they eat, sleep or rest.

• Is the designated bathroom area unpleasant to the dog in any way (too loud, too hot, feces

not being picked up daily)? Has the dog been frightened or startled near the designated

bathroom area?

• Does the dog have any separation anxiety issues that may make him not want to go far from

his owner and the house?

• Instruct the owner to make the area by the back door (or wherever she does not want him to

eliminate) unpleasant. She can use sprays that smell unpleasant to the dog and can check

out the local pet stores for products. The owner can also make the forbidden areas

unpleasant to walk on by placing a covering of lava rocks on the ground. There are also

many electronic devices that can startle the dog when he walks into the wrong area to

relieve himself, such as a motion sensor alarm.

• Have the owner try to make the designated bathroom area more desirable. Increasing

management and actually taking the dog to the area and rewarding him for going in that

area is recommended. Using a fence to prohibit the dog from being able to go anywhere

else for a while if needed can also help fix this issue.



Question I have a two-year-old dog who was perfectly housebroken until we got this puppy. Now

he's starting to have accidents in the house. What can we do?

Answer • Explain the importance of management so the puppy stops having accidents. The puppy’s

accidents are what are stimulating the older dog.

• All accident areas should be thoroughly cleaned with odor neutralizer.

• Have the owner revert to housetraining basics with the adult dog to eliminate the chance of

him having accidents for several days to a week and then slowly give back more freedom.

• Examine the owner’s relationship with the dog. Review the Leadership Exercises to see if

the dog perceives himself to have too high of a rank.

Question My puppy has an accident at the front door every night when my spouse comes home. I

do not think he will ever be housebroken and my spouse is furious. How can we stop

this?

Answer • This is not a housetraining problem. This is excited or submissive urination.

• It is very important not to draw attention to the puppy when he urinates at the front door. The

owner should not give the puppy positive (soothing the puppy) or negative (scolding,

spanking) attention.


• Find out what the puppy’s threshold is for this behavior. Does he urinate the moment the

owner opens the door or not until she reaches down to pet him? Assist the owner in

adopting a different way of entering the door that will not prompt the urination. When the

owner opens the door, she should walk right past the puppy and let his excitement diffuse a

little. Some puppies may need to be ignored for five to 10 minutes after the owner arrives


home.

• After the owner is away from the door and the puppy’s excitement has diffused, the owner

should kneel down sideways, making sure she does not lean over the puppy or place her

hands over the puppy to pet or hold him. She must not make direct eye contact and must be

careful not to speak in either a low, gruff voice or a high, whiny, excited voice. Greetings

should be kept very brief.

• The owner should only place her hands under the puppy’s chest and try to keep him up in a

Sit. She must remain calm and either not speak or speak slowly and calmly.

• The instant the puppy urinates, the owner must move away and ignore him.

• Help the owner work with the puppy to build his confidence. Practice obedience using

positive motivation techniques. Make sure she knows not to punish him.

• Instruct the owner to practice particular play exercises to build the puppy’s confidence.

Playing tug-of-war and letting the puppy win (only if there are no other behavior problems)

and reverting back to proper play when the submissive urination stops can help. Help the

owner to encourage the dog to follow a food lure or toy and slowly make it harder for the dog

to get at the lure or toy by making him have to push past her outstretched arm, or crawl

under or over her legs.

• Have the owner practice greetings at the front door at times other than homecomings to

desensitize the puppy to this event.



Digging Digging is a very common problem many dog owners

experience. As with all problems, it is important to

understand the factors behind the behavior and then

address them accordingly. As indicated throughout

this stage, there are four components that need to

be addressed when treating problem digging. They

are:



• Consequences for the Inappropriate Digging

• Consistency in Dealing with Digging

These four components are called the Treatment Plan. The Treatment Plan must be followed

consistently to eliminate or curtail the digging behavior.

Positive Reinforcement of Alternate Behaviors An important aspect that dog owners often overlook when treating a digging problem is praising

appropriate behaviors. This is because too much emphasis is placed on looking for ways to correct

the inappropriate behaviors. When the owner sees the dog out in the backyard engaging in proper

behavior (i.e., chewing on his toys, sunning himself), that behavior should be praised. Keep in mind

that the more owners positively reinforce a behavior, the stronger that behavior is going to be and

the greater the likelihood that the dog will engage in it, both when owners are there and when they

are not.


Without the dog seeing, have the owners fill the holes that the dog has dug up with the dog's stool

and lava rocks and cover it with about one inch of dirt. Dogs will often dig in the same general area

so when the dog goes to dig there again, the dog will find it unpleasant and will either stop

immediately or move to a new spot. If he moves to a new spot, the owner should just continue to fill

the new holes and within a period of no more than two weeks, the dog will stop.



Make sure the dog’s owners do not ever let the dog see them planting or working in the garden. In

addition, his owners must also not let him see them filling in holes he has already dug. The phrase

“follow the leader” applies in this scenario. If the dog sees his owners digging, it is only natural for

him to assume that it is acceptable behavior.

The owners can also bury chicken wire fencing where the dog is most inclined to dig. Have them

lay the chicken wire approximately one to two inches below the surface and cover it with soil. When

the dog attempts to dig in this area, the chicken wire will prevent the dog from digging any deeper

than an inch or so. Be sure that the owners cut a large enough piece and secure it to the ground

sufficiently to prevent the dog from ripping it up. Chicken wire has a tendency to cause discomfort to

the dog’s paws as he digs. The chicken wire can be left in place indefinitely and grass and other

plants can grow up through it. This is very effective in areas like flowerbeds if the dog is digging in

one specific area.

Repellent sprays may also be used to deter a dog from digging in a certain area. Pet stores have

many products to choose from that are formulated to repel dogs. Make sure that the owner is

careful when using these types of products as some are toxic. They should be used sparingly and

only as a last resort.

Another consideration, again with caution, is to make sure that the dog's nails are cut short. It is

best for the owner to allow either a professional groomer or veterinarian to do this. If the dog's nails

are cut short enough, it will be uncomfortable for the dog to dig and that will often deter him from

digging.

Consequences for the Inappropriate Digging


Below is a list of techniques that many trainers use to help stop inappropriate digging. If you

choose to utilize any of them, make sure to address the cause of the digging first. Occasionally,

digging will remain a habit after the cause of the digging is no longer an issue; at this time, you

may consider working with the dog specifically on the digging behavior. Some of the techniques

listed are "reactions" or corrections that might be used if the dog is caught digging. Other

techniques involve management of the digging area and rewarding alternate behaviors.

However, none of the methods listed below address the reasons why a dog is digging. Without

addressing the reasons behind the digging, little success (if any) can be expected.


Important Note: It is important to remind the clients that correction after-the-fact is a waste of time and counterproductive. This is one of the most difficult things for dog owners to understand. The idea of them arriving home from work only to discover a huge hole in the backyard and being unable to at least yell at the dog is difficult for some dog owners to accept. Most dog owners just do not realize that the dog simply learns to associate negative things with them coming home and they wind up compounding the problem. Correction after-the-fact will only create additional problems.

Shaker Can As previously described, the shaker can is a device that can be made by filling a soda can with

about 25 to 30 pennies and securely taping the top. The owner should put these cans in a few

strategically accessible locations and when she catches the dog digging, simply shake the can

vigorously and, ideally, cast it out an open window toward the dog. Do not let the dog see his owner

throw the can, and do not let the owner hit the dog with the can. It is not necessary and could injure

your pet. Also, make certain that the owner goes out afterwards and picks the cans up when the

dog is not present. We do not want the dog to begin playing with them and determine that cans

falling from the sky make for a positive and fun activity. It is important that the dog does not connect

the surprise with the owner but instead connects it with the act of digging. This is critical, because

otherwise the dog will simply learn to avoid digging when the owner is present.

Squirt of Water Another option is a squirt gun. Be careful with this one, though. Distances can sometimes make

the use of a squirt gun somewhat problematic. The owner does not want a situation in which her

dog is digging 30 or 40 feet from her when she grabs her squirt gun only to find that she is 10 feet

out of range. Consider a high-powered-pump squirt gun if the owners have a large yard. It is

important that the dog does not connect the surprise with the owner; instead, he must connect it

with the act of digging. This is critical, because otherwise the dog will simply learn to avoid digging

when the owner is present.

Shriek Alarm


Another option some trainers consider is a shriek alarm. This is a loud, high-pitched air horn or siren

that can often startle the dog and can be very effective in getting the dog to stop digging. It is

important that the dog does not connect the surprise with the owner; instead, he should connect it

with the act of digging. This is critical, because otherwise the dog will simply learn to avoid digging

when the owner is present.


Important Note: Do not use startle corrections on a dog who is being treated for or shows symptoms of separation anxiety or a general lack of confidence. This may cause the dog to view the yard as frightening and can lead to many other behavioral problems including difficulty with housebreaking.

The startling or surprise techniques have one huge drawback - most dog owners cannot spend the

whole day stalking their dog waiting for the opportunity to surprise him when they catch him digging.

Because of this, the dog is corrected for digging sometimes and not others. Due to this

inconsistency, these techniques have a low probability of actually stopping the dog from digging.

Consistency in Dealing with Digging Consistency is critical when working to curtail or eliminate behavior problems. A good trainer






The following is a list of the seven types of digging behavior that will be addressed in this section.

• Boredom

• Cooling

• Escape

• Genetic

• Burying Toys and Bones

• Hunting

• Separation Anxiety

The first step in dealing with digging is understanding that often digging is really not the problem at

all -- it is the symptom.

The problem may be that:

• The dog is bored and needs alternative things to do.


• The dog associates negative things with the backyard and needs to make a positive


association with the backyard.

• The dog does not get enough exercise.

These are the problems, and the symptom in this case is digging. It could be chewing. It could be

excessive barking or fence jumping. But, for some dogs it will be digging.

Digging is a behavior that, more often than not, will occur when the owners are not present. It is

important to understand that this takes place not because the dog is being sneaky or attempting to

get away with something. It takes place because when the owners are there, their presence and

the presence of other family members often provides the type of stimulus necessary to prevent the

dog from digging.

Often, digging takes place because of boredom. If the owner cannot catch the dog in the act of

digging, correction after-the-fact is not only a waste of time but often counterproductive. Coming

home, taking the dog over to a hole and chastising him in any fashion will at best teach the dog to

dread the owners’ coming home.

Boredom Digging

Dogs dig because they have a certain amount of energy to expend each day. The more of the dog's

energy the owner can use for acceptable activities, the less the dog has left over to dig. This is

especially true when we are talking about boredom as a motivation for digging.

Most dog owners underestimate the amount of activity it takes to use up their dog's energy each

day. For example, it is not uncommon for an owner to take her dog for a walk once, twice, or three

times a week for 10 minutes in the evening. That is great; however, when the owner leaves the dog

and goes to work in the morning, without a lot to keep him occupied, he is going to do something to

keep himself occupied. Digging is one of the activities that dogs often do to occupy themselves

when left outside. So, make sure that the owners give the dog a fair amount of exercise each day. A

"fair amount" of exercise is a vague term because every dog's exercise needs will be different. Still,

going for a walk two or three times a week in the evening is typically not going to be sufficient. On

average, one 20-minute walk per day should suffice most breeds; two 20-minute walks may be

required for working breeds. Many owners who take their dogs for a long, brisk walk first thing in the

morning notice a significant decrease in their dog’s digging habits.



Encourage the dog’s owner to engage in appropriate activities wherever the dog is likely to dig. The

owner can play with him with his chew toys and hide special treats in that area. These hidden

treasures can keep him hunting (not digging) for hours. Teach the dog to hunt for hidden treats by

taking pieces of kibble, dog biscuits and toys and hiding them in various places in the backyard.

Then encourage the dog to find these items. Once the dog has learned to do this, the owner can

leave these items in hidden places prior to leaving the dog alone. By rotating different toys and

treats daily, the dog will have something exciting to do when the owner is not present. You may

consider helping the owner make seven different toy bags and labeling them Monday, Tuesday,

Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. Two or three different toys should be put in

each bag and the bags rotated according to the day of the week. Make sure the owner always

removes the previous day’s toys before giving the dog the next day’s toys. This will help ensure that

the dog doesn’t get bored with the toys because he only sees them once a week.

Aside from giving the dog fair amounts of exercise, you should also advise your clients to make

certain that their dog is eating a high-quality kibble. As a rule, any premium-brand kibble is going to

be better than the commercial-brand kibbles which are often loaded with hidden sugars, chemicals

and preservatives. Hidden sugars in the form of beet pulp, sucrose, fructose, etc. can heighten the

dog's energy levels and lead to digging.

Most dogs select one or two favorite digging spots in the yard. The owner will need to make these

spots undesirable. On a daily basis, the owner should fill all new holes with the dog’s feces and dirt.

Make sure the owner buries the feces only a couple of inches below the surface and that the dog

does not see the owner filling in the holes. Most dogs will revisit their favorite spot and be repulsed

by the buried “treasure” they find. They will probably select a new spot, typically close to the old

favorite one and dig a new hole. Make sure the owner fills all new holes daily as explained above.

Most dogs will give up after a week or two. This anti-digging treatment can be used for all digging

problems as long as it is coupled with treatment of the ‘”reason” they are digging. Remember that if

the reason is not treated, the dog may stop digging but start chewing the patio furniture instead.

Digging for Cooling


A dog who digs to create cooling holes for himself typically will not stop unless something else is

done to cool him off. There are certain parts of the country where it gets hot and stays hot,

sometimes all year round. There are certain breeds of dogs, longhaired breeds especially, that are

going to need a place to be cool during the heat of the day. There are several things owners can


try, including making certain that there is some sort of patio cover under which the dog can lie for

shade. The owners might consider shaving the dog or buying a doghouse for the dog to lie in to get

out of the direct sun and heat. They might also consider having a small wading pool available for

the dog to lie in. Many dogs are content to lie in one or two inches of water in the pool, and

although they may be a little wet and dirty at the end of the day, they will be far less motivated to dig

because they are able to cool off without digging. Misting hoses are available at most hardware

stores and are not only good for cooling but can also keep flies away. These techniques are

definitely worth trying if you are helping a client is deal with a digging dog in a hot climate.

Digging to Escape

If the backyard is considered a place of banishment by the dog, it is more likely that digging will

occur there. Now, we are not suggesting that you recommend that your client leaves the dog in the

house if the dog is not trustworthy. What we are suggesting is that the backyard should become a

place of enjoyment for the dog. For example, make sure the owners play with the dog in the

backyard. They can also feed the dog in the backyard and provide a rotating variety of chew toys.

Puzzling, interactive and/or indestructible toys that can be baited with a variety of treats should be

considered as well. As the owners do more and more obedience as part of the Treatment Plan,

they should work with the dog in the backyard. If owners help the dog make positive associations

with the yard, they will help eliminate one of the major causes of digging.

Escape digging can also be the result of an unaltered dog responding to his or her natural instincts.

If the owner does not intend to breed the dog, you should strongly suggest altering

(neutering/spaying) the dog to help keep him/her in his/her home.

Genetic Digging


Remember that certain dogs have been bred to dig. Terriers and Dachshunds are two good

examples. Dachshunds were bred to dig after badgers. Because of this, they have a very strong

predisposition to dig. You may find that dogs who are predisposed toward digging are extremely

resistant to any measures you take to stop or redirect this behavior. What owners may need to look

at when dealing with these types of dogs, in addition to an increased amount of physical and mental

stimulation, is teaching the dogs where to dig and where not to dig. This can be accomplished by

teaching the dogs to dig in a baited digging pit in conjunction with making digging in the rest of the

yard unappealing. Remember that to make digging in the rest of the yard unappealing, the owner

can use the combination of lava rocks and the dog’s stools. Most dogs do not like the feel of lava


rocks on their feet, and if the dog finds stool just under the dirt of every one of his favorite holes, he

will be much more inclined to only dig in the designated area where he gets Milk Bones instead of

messy paws.

To teach the dogs to dig in a baited digging pit, the owners need to establish where that pit is going

to be. Then they will need to designate the area by lining it with rocks or boards - anything to mark

the area for the dog so he can recognize its difference from the rest of the yard. They also need to

make sure that the ground is relatively soft in that spot. The owners then need to bury items that

they know the dog is likely to want to dig up, such as bones, special food treats, etc. They can also

let the dog see them digging in the proper spot and literally take the dog over and encourage him to

dig in this area while praising him as he digs. For most dogs of this type, it is very easy to teach

them to dig in the correct place. This technique coupled with making the inappropriate areas less

pleasurable for the dog to dig in by booby-trapping the holes with lava rocks and the dog’s stools

will show the owners that most dogs will get the message in fairly short order.

Burying Toys and Bones

Other reasons that dogs dig can include what is called caching. Some dogs will bury bones or

other objects and then dig them up later. This can sometimes present a challenge when dealing

with boredom since one of the ways to address the issue of boredom, aside from exercise and

proper diet, is to give the dog appropriate or alternative activities to keep him occupied during the

day. Logically, if the dog spends more time playing with these items, the dog will spend less time

digging. The problem is that if owners give the dog a number of toys and he is inclined to bury these

toys, they may be encouraging the digging behavior. Luckily, there are ways around this. These

solutions can include making sure the dog has bigger toys, which are frequently larger than what

most dogs will attempt to bury. If owners are giving their dog bones or smaller toys to play with, they

can consider drilling a hole in the toy and literally tying it to a tree or to the fence. This may sound a

bit outlandish, but it can prevent the dog from burying the toy since it is now tied to something.

Sometimes dogs bury bones or other treats because they are being overfed and want to save them

for later. If this is the case, advise the owner to reduce the amount of food fed to the dog at meal

times.

Digging for Hunting


One of the more difficult digging motivations to address is a dog digging for gophers or similar types


of animals in the backyard. The truth is, owners are not likely to eliminate the problem until they

eliminate the gophers. Just make certain that any attempts to get rid of the pests in the yard involve

the use of nontoxic materials because owners could accidentally poison the dog in an attempt to

get rid of the pests. Plus, there are numerous products on the market today that can drive gophers

and small rodents off without killing them, which is of course desirable whenever possible.

If the dog is digging for small animals in the yard, the holes will probably be deep and in a row. The

holes are in a row because the dog is following the pests’ underground tunnels.

Digging due to Separation Anxiety

If you think a dog may be digging due to separation anxiety, be sure the separation anxiety is

properly addressed or your efforts to deter digging will fail. The best way to determine whether or

not you are dealing with a separation anxiety problem is to ask the owner to observe her dog's

digging pattern.

For example, if the dog is digging out of boredom, the owner should be able to leave and return in

15 or 20 minutes without any digging taking place. If the same dog is left alone for two or three

hours and then begins to dig, it is probably safe to say he may be digging out of boredom.


You are more likely to be dealing with a separation anxiety issue if the owner comes back after only

15 to 20 minutes and the dog has already engaged in frantic digging, chewing inappropriate

objects, scratching at the back gate, scratching at the back door and/or barking and howling. Also, if

you determine that the owner is not providing good leadership to her dog because she is giving her

dog a lot of free attention and catering to the dog's demands, etc., then digging due to separation

anxiety is definitely a possibility. This is a case where treating the problem (separation anxiety) will

cause the symptom (digging) to go away on its own as the separation anxiety decreases.



Common Problems Encountered with Modifying Digging

Every time I let the dog in

the backyard for more

than 15 minutes he digs.

This dog should not be left unsupervised in the yard for more than 10

minutes. You could suggest that the owner puts a dog run in the yard if

she has to leave him there.

This may be a case where the dog has learned to enjoy digging even

though the underlying problem has been resolved. You should instruct

the owner on how to deal with digging specifically to finish the

Treatment Plan.

I put a wading pool in the

backyard but the dog will

not use it. He still digs

under the shrubbery.

Some dogs do not like water or are uncomfortable lying in it. You

should suggest that the owner try a misting hose or even take him to a

groomer for a body clip.

Be sure there is only one or two inches of water in the pool. If the pool

is too deep, the dog will not be able to relax in it. Also, most dogs will

rest their head on the side of the pool so they can nap, so the owner

should make sure that the dog can comfortably lie in the pool and

reach his head to the side.

No matter how much I

walk or play with the

dog, he still digs when

he is left in the yard.

If boredom was the underlying problem, then it is probably time to

work on the digging specifically. Although most often the digging will

be extinguished when the underlying problem is resolved, there are

times when you will need to resolve the digging separately.

I am so tired of my yard

looking like a war zone.

Unless I get results with

this training real quick, I

think I will find my dog a

new home.

Unfortunately, these are usually the dog owners who did not really

want to train in the first place. They may or may not have put in a

halfhearted effort and are now ready for their dog to be good or be re-

homed. Take a moment with this owner to see exactly what she has

been doing with the dog. If she is actually trying and is just not

catching on, you may want to suggest private lessons. If the owner

gives you the impression that she has not worked with the dog and

really does not want to, you should go over all of the instructions one

more time and move on to an owner who actually wants to train her

dog.


Common Problems Encountered with Modifying Digging

My terrier will not stop

digging. I walk him twice

a day and my son plays

fetch with him for at least

20 minutes after school.

What should I do? I

would like to get some

landscaping done and

have a nice yard.

Usually at this point you will need to tell the owner again what a terrier

was bred to do -- dig and bark. Once the owner understands that this

is a genetic trait and not a bad habit, you can suggest some ways to

manage the behavior. (Refer to “Genetic Digging.”)

For the owner who does not want to train, you may need to suggest

more positive punishment correction techniques to extinguish the

behavior. Although positive punishment corrections are not optimal in

any training situation, they should be considered if eliminating or

curtailing that behavioral problem means the difference between the

dog staying in the home or being discarded.

For the owner who is actually trying but seems unable to grasp the

training instructions, you may want to break the instructions down and

make them very simple to understand. You may even want to write

everything out in an easy step-by-step format and give it to the owner

to reference while training. In some cases, it could be helpful to

suggest that instead of breaking the dog of digging, the owner could

use the suggestions for genetic digging and create a place for the dog

to dig to manage the behavior.

This question-and-answer section is designed to give ABC Certified Dog Trainers sample

responses to the most common questions or difficulties that owners have while trying to teach

their dog not to dig. Keep in mind that every answer you give to an owner should be phrased in

a manner that does not offend or chastise the owner. Offending the owner will not help the dog




Bolting ABC defines bolting as a behavior in which the

dog dashes in, out or across a restricted threshold

(i.e., doorway, curb). The solution for bolting is

typically teaching the dog where the boundary to

the threshold is and then the rules at each

threshold.

There are several common boundaries that a dog owner will want the dog to be aware of and

respect. The most important one is usually the front door. A dog bolting out the front door can

run away and/or get hit by a car. Another important boundary is the street. Since most dog

owners want their dogs to accompany them in the yard, teaching the dog not to run in the street

is an important step toward keeping him safe. Owners may also boundary train a dog to not

enter certain areas or rooms of the house.

Treatment Plan for Bolting There are four components that need to be addressed when treating bolting.



• Consequences for Bolting

• Consistency in Dealing with Bolting

These four components are called the Treatment Plan. The Treatment Plan must be followed

consistently to eliminate or curtail the behavior.

Positive Reinforcement of Alternate Behaviors


To assist the owner in solving this problem, you must first make the dog aware that there is a

boundary. Pick obvious markers to help the dog know where to stop. Curbs, the sidewalk,

doorways, trees and shrubs are all good visual cues for a boundary. Small flags stuck in the

ground are also good boundary markers for flowerbeds. For the first few days of training, have

the owner walk the leashed dog over to the boundary and develop a habit of stopping at that


boundary and turning away from it. The owner should not give a verbal cue since you want the

dog to respect the boundary whether the owner is there to give a cue or not. Teach the owner to

be consistent and praise the dog each time she leads him away from the boundary. Until the

dog is boundary trained, he should never be allowed to cross the boundary. Make sure the

owner understands to set up the boundary perimeter so the dog cannot cross it even when no

one is present. To accomplish this, the owner may use baby gates, keep doors closed, give the

dog only supervised access in the yard, etc.

Management of the Problem and Setting the Dog up to Succeed On-leash Sit-Stays at the boundary are an excellent way to show the dog that owners and other

family members may cross the boundary, but he may not. Have the owner give lots of treats and

praise for successful Sit-Stays on his side of the boundary. Instruct the owner to bring the dog

up to the boundary line, stop and put him in a Sit-Stay. The owner should then cross the

boundary line and then return to the dog who should still be sitting on his side of the boundary.

Have the owner do this all along the boundary line for several days. Make sure the owner

rewards the dog for remaining outside the room or boundary. Eventually have the owner leave

the dog for longer periods of time in a Sit-Stay position on his side of the boundary. The owner

should return periodically to praise and treat the dog for staying on his side of the boundary.

This will make it clear to him that the way to get attention is by remaining on his side of the

boundary. The owner must remember not to ignore the dog when he is staying on his side of the

threshold. She can gradually reduce the attention she gives him there. After each Sit and Sit-

Stay, make sure the owner always walks the dog back away from the boundary line. This

teaches the dog to walk away from the boundary.

When the owners see that the dog is anticipating stopping when they approach the boundary,

have the owner begin to give him a little more leash to allow him to approach the boundary

more freely. Be ready to stop him quickly if it appears that he is not going to stop and then

quickly ask him to Sit, then release him and back away from the boundary line. Help the owner

to practice this exercise for a few more days. Set the dog up with a variety of distractions so the

behavior of not crossing the boundary is generalized. When the owners get the same

anticipation with various distractions as they did without the distractions, they can advance to

booby-trapping the boundary line.



Consequences for Bolting After about a week, instruct the owner to give the dog less guidance and allow him to make

some mistakes. Have the owners use a long-line and stay back a bit from the boundary. The

owners should keep a long-line on the dog until they are sure he will be repelled away from the

boundary no matter what the distraction. When they start to test the dog to see if he will stay out

of a particular room -- even when the owners are elsewhere – assist them in setting up a motion

sensor that will "shriek" the instant the dog crosses the boundary, repelling the dog away from

the boundary.

Booby-trapping the boundary is critical so the dog can learn that even if no one is present, he

must respect the boundary. Devices such as shaker cans, whistles, squirt guns, static mats or

upside-down carpet runners can also be used. The owner will need to have other people hidden

in the forbidden area equipped with some of these devices in order to surprise the dog when he

starts to cross the boundary. Remote devices, such as motion-sensor shriek alarms, static mats

and upside-down carpet runners are automatically triggered when the dog crosses the boundary

and usually are the better choices for boundary training.

Consistency in Dealing with Bolting Consistency is critical when working to curtail or eliminate behavior problems. A good trainer


“problems” are self-rewarding behaviors for the dog. Simply put, most dogs truly enjoy engaging

in these “problem” behaviors and will not miss an opportunity to partake in them. It is for this

reason that consistency plays such a crucial role in treating the behavior. The Treatment Plan

must be followed consistently in order to achieve success.




Common Problems Encountered with Treating Bolting

My dog does not always

stay in the yard. He will

do really well for a few

days then he just runs

off.

This is an example of the owner being inconsistent. Until the dog is

completely trained, he should not be allowed the opportunity to cross

the boundary. Most owners will do minimal training and, because the

dog responds correctly two or three times, think he is fully trained. This

is not so. It is the ABC Certified Dog Trainer’s responsibility to explain

to the owner that many weeks of successful training should be

completed before the dog may be reliable and respond correctly. The

owner will still need to monitor the dog’s behavior and be ready to

intercede if the dog responds incorrectly until the problem behavior is

successfully extinguished or managed.

I have been keeping my

dog out of the kitchen,

and he does very well,

but every time the baby

drops some food on the

floor he darts in and

takes it.

Again, this shows inconsistency on the part of the owner. If the owner

knows the dog will grab food from the floor, then the dog should not be

allowed near the kitchen when the baby eats. Suggest that the owner

uses a baby gate to block the entrance to the kitchen during meals or

even crate the dog with his favorite chew toy to interrupt his ability to

get rewarded for darting in the kitchen.

Do “mock” trials in which the owner anticipates the dog breaking

through the boundary. Have a booby-trap set up in advance of the

baby dropping food on the floor.

When I open the door the

dog runs out. He will not

come when I call him and

I usually have to chase

him for about 20 minutes

before I can catch him

and bring him back in

the house.

Again this shows inconsistency; remind the owner that she must

manage the situation. If the dog is kept on-leash when the door is

opened, it is impossible for him to bolt out the door. Combine this with

proper training and the behavior can be extinguished. You should also

suggest that this dog receive more mental and physical stimulation in

his daily routine. More stimulation should allow the dog to resist an

inappropriate opportunity in favor of the walk he will take with the

owner later.


Common Problems Encountered with Treating Bolting

My dog will only leave

the yard when he sees a

cat. Most of the time this

is OK (my spouse does

not like cats anyway) but

three months ago he

chased a cat into the

street and was hit by a

car. I do not want him to

be killed… What can I

do?

The best solution in this situation would be to instruct the owner to

desensitize the dog to cats. The spouse must not ever let the dog

chase cats. In addition to the desensitization, the dog should be

boundary trained. Be sure to stress to the owner that the dog must be

on-leash when he is in the yard until he can ignore cats and will not

cross the yard boundary. Depending on the dog’s drives, this may take

several weeks or months of training, so tell the owner to be patient,

and, above all else, consistent.


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