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SRI LANKA

By Max Breckenridge (mbreckenridge1995@gmail.com) Sydney, Australia. Photos by Max Breckenridge and Simon Gorta.

(February 6/2017 to February 20/2017)

Kitulgala - Nuwara Eliya - Udawalawe NP - Mirissa - Sinharaja

It is worth first mentioning that the two weeks spent in Sri Lanka by myself, Joshua Bergmark, Simon Gorta, and Nathan Ruser were preceded by a five week stint birding through much of India. As such, the focus of our time in Sri Lanka involved the 34 endemics and any regional specialities. Hopefully this is in keeping with most other birders who read this as I refrained from much mention of the commoner species we encountered in India that crossover with Sri Lanka.

Overall we experienced superb birding in the short time we had in only a small section of the country. A duration of two weeks is more than enough to track down every endemic and all the specialties. Many other birders we met were travelling similar routes over similar periods to us. Indeed, we frequently encountered other birders during our time in Sri Lanka. This was in stark contrast to India where we only came across one or two groups of foreign birders in five weeks. Additionally, Sri Lanka proved remarkably different to India in many ways. It has become especially ‘toursity’ in the last decade. Prices are not expensive, but not dissimilar to western prices. For example, a good-sized serving of simple fried rice would typically cost $7AUD in Sri

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Lanka, for which you could purchase seven servings of sublime masala dosa in India. A nice contrast to birding in India were the short distances between birding sites. Target birds were often obvious and plentiful, with the occasional toughy.

We hired a driver, Denver, through Nandy (thimara@yahoo.com) for the first week of our trip. This made getting around simple. We were charged $50USD per day (which appears to be the average price) for a Toyota hatchback and unfriendly, but willing driver. Travel between Mirissa and Colombo via Sinharaja was done by local buses. While this is generally an unpleasant business, services were surprisingly regular (we never waited more than 10 minutes for a bus) and on the odd occasion not overflowing with passengers. In hindsight, independent travel through Sri Lanka by bus would prove a cheap and relatively straightforward process, with the exception of getting around Nuwara Eliya/Horton Plains NP. Accommodation options are plentiful at all sites, perhaps with the exception of Sinharaja (see report). There is generally a good range of prices for rooms, but again, markedly more expensive than in India.

We enjoyed perfect weather during our time in Sri Lanka, aside from one drenching in Mirissa when we were caught unawares. Days, in the lowlands, were typically cloudless, hot (~30oC) and fairly humid, but pleasant at dawn and dusk. Of note was the uncharacteristically clear and rain-free weather we experienced in Nuwara Eliya (the owner of the hotel we stayed at remarked that it had been raining for three weeks non-stop prior to our arrival). Temperatures probably dropped to about 8oC at night in Nuwara Eliya and up to 25oC during the day, but were markedly lower in Horton Plains NP by at least several degrees.

Visas were obtained on arrival ($40USD pp) which was very straightforward. Only certain ATMs accepted foreign cards, but they were usually not too hard to find. Day 1. Feb 6/2017 (Colombo to Kitulgala) Arrived at Bandaranaike International Airport around 4:30 PM from Kochi, India. Quick and easy to organise visa and sim card on arrival (unlike in India, where getting a sim card is essentially impossible for foreigners!). Met our driver an hour later and were soon on our way towards Kitulgala. Situated in the Western foothills of Sri Lanka along the banks of the Kelani River, exists an area of good forest interspersed by well-wooded villages. We eventually found a cheap room on the main road about 1 km west of the monkey (walking suspension) bridge. This was not easy at 11 PM, but asking some roadside locals paid off.

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Asian Openbills roosted in trees beside the monkey bridge at Kitulgala. Sri Lanka Junglefowl were ever present, though rarely as confiding as the birds at Sinharaja Forest Reserve. Day 2. Feb 7/2017 (Kitulgala and Makandawa Forest) The next morning we set off, crossing the monkey bridge and walking east through the village. We had our first sightings of several endemics through the village southeast of the river before realising we were heading in the wrong direction. These included Sri Lanka Grey Hornbill, Yellow-fronted Barbet, Orange-billed Babbler, Black-capped Bulbul, Red-backed Flameback, flyover Sri Lanka Hanging Parrot and a flock of ten Sri Lanka Swallows low overhead. Heading back the way we came and then a further kilometre west of the bridge we found the entrance to Makandawa Forest. The ticket counter here usually charges 650 Rs pp (a recent increase seemingly), but luckily it was unmanned during our visits except as we were leaving on the last morning (when we didn't pay regardless). This is an excellent area of forest. A large suite of the lowland forest endemics and specialties can be found here and the spotlighting is of a very high standard (ticket counter unmanned at night). During our first morning we walked to the main paddyfield (6.985066, 80.402995) and into the forest just beyond. Sitting at the decrepit huts beside the paddyfield offers a good opportunity to watch birds flying over and moving through the edge habitat. Layard's Parakeet and Sri Lanka Hanging Parrot flew over, while Legge's Flowerpecker, Sri Lanka Myna and Sri Lanka Drongo moved through the acacias on the western edge. Malabar Trogon, Indian Scimitar Babbler, nesting Sri Lanka Drongo, Dark-fronted Babbler and Indian Blue Robin were all seen along the first 150 m of track in forest south of the paddyfield. In the evening we ventured into the same area of forest for some spotlighting. We heard several Chestnut-backed Owlet around the paddyfield, but they stayed high up in the trees despite calling strongly. A single Serendib Scops Owl call was heard by some of us along the first 200 m of track from the ticket counter, but was not heard or seen again - they are noted as a very quiet species, much easier to find in the day. Indian Scops Owl, Brown Wood Owl and Sri Lanka Frogmouth were all vocal, and a Brown Boobook was observed above the huts at the paddyfield. We enjoyed spending a bit of time checking all the frog species in various streams.

The bright yellow eye-ring is very obvious on Brown-headed Barbets in Sri Lanka, compared with Indian individuals. Sri Lanka Grey Hornbills were regular around Kitulgala. Day 3. Feb 8/2017 (Kitulgala and Makandawa Forest) We rose well before dawn the next day and headed towards the township and resorts of

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Kitulgala in search of the owlet. The traditional site has been, for many years, the 'abandoned resort' next door to (west of) Kitulgala Rest House. After hearing nothing for two hours and eventually finding (sneaking) our way into the grounds of the Rafters Retreat we got onto a bird. Two guides with clients soon arrived and before long we were watching one of a pair of birds high in a tree. Both were calling strongly and provided good views in the end. According to the guide we met here, the resort next door to Kitulgala Rest House is no longer abandoned, having been rebranded as the fancy Rafters Retreat. Access the grounds via permission at the main gate, or from along the river from behind, and aim for the area of tall open trees around an obvious timber hut/mill. The birds call from 6 to 9 AM before flying across to the south side of the river where access is impossible. No calls were heard before 6 AM. After this success, we took the 'ferry' across the river just below Kitulgala Rest House (100 Rs pp is the correct fee, but often the boatman will try to charge more). Birding through the village to the forest was highlighted by perched Sri Lanka Green Pigeon and White-rumped Munia. Just before the paddyfield in Makandawa Forest, we lucked onto a pair of noisy Sri Lanka Blue Magpie. After a bit of a scramble and a lot of surprise, we got great views of a calling bird in the top of the tallest broadleaf tree at the north end of the paddyfield. A secretive group of diminutive Brown-capped Babbler in the forest just north of the first creek were also noted. Leaving the forest we picked up some good birds on our walk back to our hotel through the village and over the monkey bridge. Views were had of probably the best junglefowl, Sri Lanka of course, a huge Legge's Hawk Eagle circling overhead, and an excellent pick up by Nathan in the form of a Green-billed Coucal. The bird was hanging around a mixed feeding flock of babblers and was found to have a nest with young nearby. Another bout of spotlighting in the forest that night was much the same as the night prior. No Serendib, but at least 12 frogmouths were heard and one female seen. Playing the Spot-bellied Eagle Owl tape had the effect of sending four previously silent frogmouths into hysterics. Day 4. Feb 9/2017 (Kitulgala to Nuwara Eliya) We arrived in Nuwara Eliya around noon the next day. We experienced uncharacteristically good weather during our three nights here and saw all the target birds to boot. The outrageous entrance fee to Victoria Park was paid and we spent several hours here in the afternoon until dusk. Pied Thrush were plentiful. Several confiding males were observed at close range in trees along both sides of the park. Forest Wagtails were also very much in evidence here, particularly along the grubby stream and adjacent lawns. Sri Lanka White Eyes, Sri Lanka Scimitar Babbler, Indian Pitta, Brown-breasted Flycatcher and a brief Himalayan Buzzard for Josh and Nathan. All were observed before we finally picked up our main target behind the women's amenities block - Kashmir Flycatcher. We and several other visiting birders had great views of a fairly secretive immature male feeding around an area of disturbed earth.

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Pied Thrush were readily encountered in Nuwara Eliya’s Victoria Park. A stunning Crimson-backed Woodpecker at Pattipola unfortunately stuck to the shadows for her photos! Day 5. Feb 10/2017 (Horton Plains NP) An early start the next day (5:30 AM) probably wasn't as early as it should've been. Arriving at the entrance to Horton Plains National just after 6 AM we were met by a wall of vehicles. We paid another large entry fee (3000 Rs pp) and it wasn't too long before we pulled up beside Arrenga Pool (6.831148, 80.807053). Make sure you are the first vehicle in line if possible. Luckily none of the other visitors seemed interested in the pool, so we had it to ourselves. A pair of Sri Lanka Whistling Thrush were the first birds we got onto upon arriving. As the sun was just touching the tops of nearby hills, we had very satisfactory views as the pair called and moved through vegetation along the water’s edge. An excellent start was improved with views of musical Dull Blue Flycatchers (definitely not dull in the sun), stunning Yellow-eared Bulbuls, plenty of Sri Lanka White Eye, but only flyover views of the woodpigeon. A skulking Sri Lanka Bush Warbler was also at the pool, but better views were obtained of a pair just down the road. Driving to the centre of the park yielded little of interest save for the Sri Lankan race, mahrattarum, of Cinereous Tit. Instead of jostling with the crowds on the walk to World's End, we opted to stake out a site back the way we came. A white bungalow serves as the Maha Eliya Wildlife Dormitory (6.813399, 80.804070) and is situated next to some good forest. At the far end of the building, where sewerage and rubbish pools, we had good views of the following: Spot-winged Thrush, Large-billed Leaf Warbler, Indian 'Sri Lankan' Blackbird (race kinnisii), Indian Blue Robin and Sri Lanka Junglefowl. No other blackbirds were seen for the remainder of or our trip in Sri Lanka - most people only seem to see them by being the first car into the park and flushing them off the road. Back in town that afternoon we birded along the northern shore of Lake Gregory and the horse race track. An immature Besra at the lake and flushing six Pin-tailed Snipe from the race ground wetlands were welcome additions to our trip list. Day 6. Feb 11/2017 (Nuwara Eliya area) Having picked up most of our highland targets in Horton Plains, the next morning we visited a few minor sites. Our first stop was a nondescript creek crossing just outside town (6.959405, 80.798674). Here in the freezing early morning we flushed a pair of Sri Lanka Thrush, but little else of note. Trying a few spots for the whistling-thrush on the road through Seetha Eliya had little result, but we encountered some excellent birding up at Pattipola. In a patch of forest here we came

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across a stunning male Kashmir Flycatcher. Nilgiri Wood Pigeons provided the desired views and a female Crimson-backed Flameback was worth some considerable effort. In the afternoon we visited the Waterfield Trail (6.981072, 80.765312), another site for whistling thrush, where we found another female Crimson-backed Flameback and had brief views of a Legge's Hawk Eagle in the pine forest. No whistling thrush.

A very welcome find in forest near Pattipola was this male Kashmir Flycatcher. Hill Swallows were seen at a few spots around Nuwara Eliya. Day 7. Feb 12/2017 (Nuwara Eliya to Udawalawa) Before departing for Udawalawa, we tried once more for Sri Lanka Thrush and Kashmir Flycatcher. This time, at the creek crossing, the birds flushed onto a nearby slope rather than into thick cover. They performed well in the dim early morning light, feeding in the open. Moving onto Pattipola, we had good views again of the male Kashmir and several woodpigeon, along with a pair of showy Loten’s Sunbirds. We even had several Sri Lanka Spurfowl calling from forest down the road, but they didn't come into our taping despite responding very strongly (interestingly, the field guides all suggest this species isn’t present in the highlands). A slow drive down through hills until we reached the township of Udawalawa - not to be confused with the adjacent Udawalawe National Park. In the late afternoon we birded north along the main overflow canal from the reservoir (6.413927, 80.834200). In scrub between the bridge and the dam wall we racked up a good list of birds. Among 73 species, we picked up a trio of Sri Lanka Woodshrike in scrub near the dam, several Orange-breasted Green Pigeon perched in the afternoon sunlight, and good views of male Loten's Sunbird were had. Day 8. Feb 13/2017 (Udawalawe NP to Mirissa) Through our hotel we arranged a safari in Udawalawe NP the next morning. We entered the park at 6 AM, one of the first of many jeeps doing so. We had a great few hours and picked up all of our main targets, though continued to do poorly on the cuckoo-front. Malabar Pied Hornbills were awesome and plentiful where there were large trees. Blyth's Pipit were discerned from Paddyfield in areas with short grass near water. A pair of striking Marshall's Iora in scrub very close to the car was an excellent pickup. Just as we were about to exit, a small flock of Tricoloured Munia were spotted by Nathan and enjoyed by all (thousands of munias were seen in flight in the very early morning, but weren't identifiable). Other good birds here included the intriguing 'Sri Lankan Stilt' (which appears very white-headed, noticeably tall, and with a

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spoonbill-like feeding style), numerous Changeable Hawk Eagle, Grey-headed Fish Eagle, Pallid Harrier, brief Sri Lanka Woodshrike, Indian Pitta, Ashy-crowned Sparrowlark, +40 Jerdon's Bushlark and the odd Forest Wagtail. It is worth noting, that all the key species here can be seen within the first couple of kms from the entry gate. This is despite the park being over 308 km2. We arrived in Mirissa by early afternoon and farewelled Nathan with a few drinks and some terns overlooking the Indian Ocean.

A striking male Marshall’s Iora with its mate was a welcome encounter in Udawalawe NP. A Changeable Hawk-Eagle guards its kill from another at Udawalawe NP, where they were common. Day 9. Feb 14/2017 (Mirissa) We had an excellent boat trip off Mirissa the following day with Raja and the Whales. Cetacean highlights were undoubtedly four Blue Whales seen very close about 10 NM offshore and a single Bryde's Whale not long after leaving port. The birding was also noteworthy. We recorded eight species of tern (Bridled, Sooty, Common, White-winged, Whiskered, Little, Gull-billed, Crested) and a possible, but unconfirmed, Saunders' Tern showing several black outer primaries. Most of the terns were seen within the first few kms offshore.

Two of the world’s largest mammals - Blue Whale off Mirissa and Asian Elephant from Udawalawe NP. Day 10. Feb 15/2017 (Mirissa to Kudawa)

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Having said goodbye to our driver on the 13th, today consisted of four different bus journeys in order to reach Sinharaja Forest Reserve (Mirissa-Aluthgama-Mathugama-Kalawana-Kudawa). While we had booked four nights at Martin’s Simple Lodge, we had not been able to contact him the week prior to our visit. In addition, upon arrival, the parks staff would not allow us to walk the short distance through Sinharaja in order to reach the lodge without paying the full day entrance fee and guiding fee! The other route involves a steep 4 km jeep track which apparently costs 3500 Rs one-way. In the end, very disenfranchised with Sinharaja already, we agreed to stay with one of the park rangers' (P. Gunarathna) family. This turned out to be an excellent turn of events. His house was close to the park, in a scenic location, and the hospitality was second to none. All for a far more reasonable price than Martin's Simple Lodge, which has increased its rate markedly over the past two years or so, and seems to be past its glory days going off various commentaries we read. The house in which we stayed is at 6.439510, 80.421652 on the north side of the road - very close to the park entrance gate! Day 11. Feb 16/2017 (Sinharaja Forest Reserve and Kudawa) After gorging ourselves on roti, we made our way up to the park entrance. Sri Lanka Spurfowl were heard on both sides of the river before the park entrance and Simon even managed glimpses of a pair. We paid our entry and guide fee and set off into the park. The guide system here operates on a roster, but we managed to secure our guide for two days in a row. This was probably due to his awareness of just how keen we were to find the scops owl. Once entering the main part of the reserve (past the guardtower and second entrance gate) we started getting into the birding proper. Nominate race male Malabar Trogon, calling Brown-capped Babblers, Black-capped Bulbuls, a party of dinosauric, arboreal Ashy-headed Laughingthrush and several pairs of exceedingly tame Sri Lanka Junglefowl on the track. A mixed feeding flock, just past where the track forks initially, yielded a pair of White-faced Starling calling from the top of a tree, and then a secretive, but striking Red-faced Malkoha was sighted crawling through the canopy. After a few forays into the forest in an attempt to find roosting scops owl, we were instead consoled with views of Chestnut-winged Cuckoo, nest-building Sri Lanka Drongo, more Red-faced Malkoha, nigrifrons Dark-fronted Babbler, and white male Asian Paradise Flycatchers. Around the old research station we got onto a well-concealed Sri Lanka Thrush, along with Large-billed Leaf Warbler and Indian Blue Robin. As the day heated up we headed back to the main entrance, but not before several more extended forays in search of roosting scops (Josh and our guide should be credited for doing most of the legwork here. Meanwhile, Simon and I did our bit by adding birds to the trip list). It is worth noting that once you leave the park to get food in the middle of the day, if you intend to re-enter that afternoon, you will need to pay the full fee again. Hence, it is a ‘half-day’ fee, rather than a ‘full-day’ fee as they may suggest at the ticket counter. Upon returning to the park entrance, our guide quickly rushed us over to where we could see a pair of Sri Lanka Spurfowl feeding unconcernedly a few metres away! The small slope just down from the information centre was frequented by Common Emerald Dove and, on two occasions during our visit, by a confiding pair of spurfowl. Tame Sri Lanka Blue Magpies also fed on rice left by the rangers here. Various locals feed spurfowl at their houses, and can be located if you ask around, but we were now in no need of following this up. In the afternoon we birded around the village of Kudawa. Crimson-fronted Barbet allowed clear views as one called from the top of a dead tree near the main bridge. Legge’s Hawk Eagle

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overhead, good numbers of parrots and pigeons, nominate Black-throated Munia drinking and Slaty-legged Crake calling from thick cover, unseen.

Two stunners from the rainforests of southern Sri Lanka - the blue magpie were readily seen around the entrance to Sinharaja Forest Reserve and, surprisingly, so were a pair of Sri Lanka Spurfowl. Day 12. Feb 17/2017 (Sinharaja Forest Reserve and Kudawa) As we were now starting to get a little desperate, our guide assured us that he would let the locals and other park staff know that we were willing to tip anyone able to find us a Serendib Scops Owl (this is common practice in Sinharaja). We were woken by a pair of Green-billed Coucal emitting their fantastic call from across the river. A morning of relaxed birding followed. Close to our homestay we found more Sri Lanka Blue Magpie, Spot-winged Thrush, Legge’s Flowerpecker, Sri Lanka Swallow, long overdue Banded Bay Cuckoo and another tantalizing session failing to secure views of Slaty-legged Crake was had. As the others were napping, our guide from yesterday showed up to inform me, very matter-of-factly, that a scops had been found at a roost in the park. Within 10 minutes we were all back at the park entrance, paying our fee and setting off into the forest again. The bird had been located by another ranger along an offshoot track several kms into the reserve. After a long hot walk we eventually arrived at the spot. Lying on the sloping ground at an angle, we could all see the tiny rufous Serendib Scops Owl peeking back at us through the bamboo. We were elated and very thankful to have seen our last Sri Lankan endemic! It was interesting to note on the return walk the exact tree where the first Sinharaja Serendib had been sighted in 2005 (the species itself having only been described from a patch of forest to the north three years prior), as pointed out to us by our guide. A roosting Sri Lanka Frogmouth and a beautiful adult Besra feeding an immature were observed on the way back to the entrance where the spurfowl were again feeding down the slope. Our last afternoon of birding for the trip was spent around Kudawa. We started with great views of Layard’s Parakeet feeding (not an easy bird to see well) and finished with quick, but clear views of a Slaty-legged Crake sneaking through a tea plantation (6.441212, 80.414488). The crakes are common in thick, moist vegetation around Kudawa and call readily in response to taping. They are, however, particularly wary and indeed we only saw the one bird during many hours of trying (at least 6 birds were heard around the village at different spots).

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A well-hidden Serendib Scops Owl was fittingly our final endemic for the trip, in Sinharaja Forest Reserve. A tiny Sri Lanka Frogmouth was also found at roost in this excellent area of forest. Day 13. Feb 18/2017 (Kudawa to Negombo) Sinharaja had certainly not conformed to any of our expectations, but it was a definite highlight of our time in Sri Lanka. The food and hospitality we experienced with Gunarathna was unequivocally the best we found in the country. Our last long day on busses beckoned (Kudawa-Kalawana-Mathugama-Colombo-Negombo) but we still managed to end the day in a satisfactory hotel with a cold Coke watching the sun go down. Such is travelling in Asia - no day is the same and never do they go quite as you expect. There are hardships and inconsistencies, but the birds are always worth the struggle and this trip had certainly shown that. We spent a full day and night in Negombo before boarding our long flight back to Sydney via Abu Dhabi at 4 AM on the 20th.

Sri Lanka Trip List Taxonomy follows IOC V7.0

Top Five Birds of the Trip

1. Sri Lanka Spurfowl 2. Sri Lanka Blue Magpie

3. Kashmir Flycatcher 4. Sri Lanka Whistling Thrush 5. Crimson-backed Flameback

Target birds, generally subcontinent endemics, in bold. Vulnerable species denoted by one asterisk and two for endangered. Square brackets denote subspecies names (some more well recognised than others). All 34 endemics seen out of a trip list total of 194 (3 species heard only).

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Site name abbreviations: - Horton Plains NP (HPNP) - Makandawa Forest (MF) - Nuwara Eliya (NE)

- Sinharaja Forest Reserve (SFR) - Udawalawe NP (UNP) - Victoria Park (VP)

1. Lesser Whistling Duck Dendrocygna javanica Four birds at UNP. 2. Sri Lanka Spurfowl Galloperdix bicalcarata Birds heard calling from forest near

Pattipola. Heard most days around SFR. A pair seen very well feeding along the short slope next to the main entrance at SFR on two occasions. It appears park staff have recently started to leave rice out for birds/squirrels here making them very confiding.

3. Sri Lanka Junglefowl Gallus lafayetii Regular in all areas of good forest and national parks. More often heard than seen. Several pairs proved very bold along the main path in SFR between the second entrance gate and research station.

4. Indian Peafowl Pavo cristatus Particularly abundant in UNP and surrounds. Over 50 birds seen during our morning safari.

5. Painted Stork Mycteria leucocephala Six birds at UNP. 6. Asian Openbill Anastomus oscitans Roosting in trees beside the monkey bridge at

Kitulgala. Also seen at Udawalawa and overhead at SFR. 7. *Lesser Adjutant Leptoptilos javanicus One seen in flight over the road near UNP. 8. Black-headed Ibis Threskiornis melanocephalus Singles around UNP and roadside

birds. 9. Eurasian Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia Single along the water’s edge at UNP. 10. Striated Heron Butorides striata Three birds along the reservoir canal (Udawalawa).

Several around Mirissa Harbour and one at Kudawa. 11. Indian Pond Heron Ardeola grayii Throughout. 12. Eastern Cattle Egret Bubulcus coromandus Throughout. 13. Grey Heron Ardea cinerea Several around UNP. 14. Purple Heron Ardea purpurea One along the reservoir canal (Udawalawa). 15. Great Egret Ardea alba Several around UNP. 16. Intermediate Egret Egretta intermedia NE, UNP, Kudawa. 17. Little Egret Egretta garzetta Kitulgala, NE, UNP, Kudawa. 18. Spot-billed Pelican Pelecanus philippensis One seen from the bus circling over a pond at

Colombo Fort. 19. Little Cormorant Microcarbo niger NE and UNP. 20. Indian Cormorant Phalacrocorax fuscicollis UNP. 21. Oriental Darter Anhinga melanogaster Three birds at UNP. 22. Black-winged Kite Elanus caeruleus UNP. 23. Crested Honey Buzzard Pernis ptilorhynchus Singles at UNP and SFR, Kudawa area. 24. Crested Serpent Eagle Spilornis [spilogaster] cheela Kitulgala, UNP, Kudawa. 25. Changeable Hawk-Eagle Nisaetus [ceylanensis] cirrhatus Six birds around UNP and a

single at Kudawa.

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26. Legge’s Hawk-Eagle Nisaetus kelaarti Singles circling over Kitulgala and Kudawa. One bird seen briefly below the pine canopy with a Toque Macaque kill at Waterfield Drive (NE).

27. Black Eagle Ictinaetus malaiensis Singles at Kitulgala, HPNP and Kudawa. 28. Crested Goshawk Accipiter [layardi] trivirgatus One bird seen at SFR. 29. Shikra Accipiter badius Singles at Kitulgala and Udawalawa. 30. Besra Accipiter virgatus Single immature at Lake Gregory (NE). Fantastic views of an

adult calling and feeding an immature below the canopy at SFR between the two entrance gates.

31. Pallid Harrier Circus macrourus Single bird over grassland near the reservoir at UNP. 32. Brahminy Kite Haliastur indus Kitulgala, NE, Udawalawa, Mirissa. 33. White-bellied Sea Eagle Haliaeetus leucogaster UNP and Mirissa. 34. Grey-headed Fish Eagle Haliaeetus ichthyaetus A pair seen at close range perched in a

tree in the reservoir at UNP. 35. Himalayan Buzzard Buteo burmanicus One bird seen by Josh and Nathan overhead at

VP.

One of a pair of Grey-headed Fish Eagles and a moulting Black-winged Stilt from Udawalawe NP.

36. Slaty-legged Crake Rallina eurizonoides Commonly heard around Kudawa in dense vegetation near water. A single bird finally seen, after three days, skulking through a tea plantation at the start of the driveway to Jansen’s Bungalow.

37. White-breasted Waterhen Amaurornis phoenicurus Throughout. 38. Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus At least 20 birds around UNP. A very

contentious possible split, but a curious bird nonetheless (see trip report). 39. Red-wattled Lapwing Vanellus [lankae] indicus HPNP, NE, UNP. 40. Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius Two along the reservoir canal (Udawalawa) and

a single in UNP. 41. Lesser Sand Plover Charadrius mongolus One bird at UNP. 42. Pin-tailed Snipe Gallinago stenura Five birds flushed from wetlands within the horse race

grounds in the centre of town (NE).

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43. Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis Four birds at UNP. 44. Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus NE and Udawalawa. 45. Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola NE and UNP. 46. Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos NE and UNP. 47. Little Stint Calidris minuta Two birds at UNP. 48. Gull-billed Tern Gelochelidon nilotica Common around UNP and inshore waters around

Mirissa. 49. Greater Crested Tern Thalasseus bergii Several inshore and offshore of Mirissa. 50. Little Tern Sternula albifrons UNP and inshore waters around Mirissa. 51. Bridled Tern Onychoprion anaethetus Five birds seen offshore of Mirissa. 52. Sooty Tern Onychoprion fuscatus Three birds seen offshore of Mirissa. 53. Common Tern Sterna hirundo Single bird seen offshore of Mirissa. 54. Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybrida Common around UNP. Over 100 birds around

Mirissa Harbour and at least 20 birds seen offshore. 55. White-winged Tern Chlidonias leucopterus One bird at UNP, at least 30 birds offshore of

Mirissa. 56. Rock Dove Columba livia Throughout. 57. *Sri Lanka Wood Pigeon Columba torrintoniae Five birds seen poorly during our

morning in HPNP. Up to eight birds seen far more satisfactorily around Pattipola. 58. Spotted Dove Spilopelia [ceylonensis] chinensis Throughout. 59. Common Emerald Dove Chalcophaps [robinsoni] indica Kitulgala, UNP, SFR, Kudawa. 60. Orange-breasted Green Pigeon Treron [leggei] bicinctus Three birds seen along the

reservoir canal (Udawalawa) and eight birds seen around UNP. 61. Sri Lanka Green Pigeon Treron pompadora Kitulgala, UNP, Kudawa. 62. Green Imperial Pigeon Ducula aenea Kitulgala, MF, Udawalawa, SFR, Kudawa. 63. *Green-billed Coucal Centropus chlororhynchos Single with an occupied nest in

village forest between the monkey bridge and entrance to MF. Occasionally heard around Kudawa.

64. Greater ‘Southern’ Coucal Centropus sinensis Kitulgala, UNP, Kudawa. 65. *Red-faced Malkoha Phaenicophaeus pyrrhocephalus Four birds from two different

groups seen along the main trail in SFR between the second entrance gate and research station. Typically seen ‘crawling’ inconspicuously through the underside of the canopy at the back-end of feeding flocks.

66. Blue-faced Malkoha Phaenicophaeus viridirostris Two birds seen briefly in UNP. 67. Chestnut-winged Cuckoo Clamator coromandus One bird seen briefly, but well in SFR. 68. Asian Koel Eudynamys scolopaceus UNP and Kudawa. 69. Banded Bay Cuckoo Cacomantis [waiti] sonneratii One bird seen near Blue Magpie

Lodge, Kudawa. 70. Common Hawk-Cuckoo Hierococcyx [ciceliae] varius (HO) HPNP. 71. **Serendib Scops Owl Otus thilohoffmanni One heard only at MF. Roosting individual

observed in low bamboo at an off-track site in SFR (located by one of the rangers). 72. Indian Scops Owl Otus bakkamoena (HO) At the main paddyfield in MF.

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73. Brown Wood Owl Strix [ochrogenys] leptogrammica (HO) Calling constantly one night east of the main paddyfield in MF.

74. Chestnut-backed Owlet Glaucidium castanotum Three birds called strongly, but proved elusive in forest around the main paddyfield in MF. Two birds eventually seen well in the grounds of Rafters Retreat, Kitulgala shortly after dawn.

75. Brown Hawk-Owl Ninox scutulata Two birds around the main paddyfield in MF. One seen well.

76. Sri Lanka Frogmouth Batrachostomus moniliger At least 12 birds heard one night spotlighting in MF, with one female seen. A single observed at a roost in SFR.

Indian Peafowl and Little Egrets were common throughout Sri Lanka, but no less beautiful.

77. Crested Treeswift Hemiprocne coronata UNP, SFR, Kudawa. 78. Indian Swiftlet Aerodramus unicolor Throughout. 79. Brown-backed Needletail Hirundapus giganteus Mirissa, SFR, Kudawa. 80. Asian Palm Swift Cypsiurus balasiensis Udawalawa and Kudawa. 81. Blyth’s Swift Apus leuconyx Single bird seen by Simon only 82. Little Swift Apus affinis UNP, Mirissa, SFR, Kudawa. 83. Malabar Trogon Harpactes fasciatus One male at MF in forest just after the main

paddyfield. Several in SFR. 84. Indian Roller Coracias benghalensis Five around UNP. 85. Stork-billed Kingfisher Pelargopsis capensis One on wires over the Kelani River where

the ‘ferry’ crosses near Rafters Retreat. Another along the reservoir canal at Udawalawa. 86. White-throated Kingfisher Halcyon smyrnensis Throughout. 87. Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis Udawalawa and Kudawa. 88. Green Bee-eater Merops [ceylonicus] orientalis Common around UNP. 89. Blue-tailed Bee-eater Merops philippinus Common around UNP, SFR, Kudawa. 90. Chestnut-headed Bee-eater Merops leschenaulti Kitulgala, UNP, Kudawa. 91. Eurasian Hoopoe Upupa epops Four at UNP. 92. Malabar Pied Hornbill Anthracoceros coronatus At least 18 birds seen around UNP.

Particularly near the first area of tall trees/figs along the main N-S track.

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93. Sri Lanka Grey Hornbill Ocyceros gingalensis Singles around Kitulgala, common in UNP, and several around SFR and Kudawa.

94. Brown-headed Barbet Psilopogon zeylanicus UNP and Kudawa. Birds in Sri Lanka look markedly brighter (particularly the yellow eye-ring) than in India.

95. Yellow-fronted Barbet Psilopogon flavifrons Throughout. More often heard than seen. Good views in village trees at Kitulgala and Kudawa.

96. Crimson-fronted Barbet Psilopogon rubricapillus Surprisingly uncommon. Singles around Kudawa, particularly in trees just south of the main bridge where they called stridently, allowing good views.

97. Coppersmith Barbet Psilopogon haemacephalus UNP. 98. Brown-capped Pygmy Woodpecker Dendrocopos nanus SFR. 99. Yellow-crowned Woodpecker Dendrocopos mahrattensis UNP. 100. Lesser Yellownape Picus [wellsi] chlorolophus SFR. 101. Red-backed Flameback Dinopium psarodes Several around Kitulgala and UNP.

Single in SFR. 102. Crimson-backed Flameback Chrysocolaptes stricklandi Single female eventually

tracked down and seen well in forest near Pattipola. Another female seen relatively well in pine forest at Waterfield Drive (NE). A pair seen very close at the top of the gully next to the second entrance gate in SFR.

103. Plum-headed Parakeet Psittacula cyanocephala UNP and Kudawa. 104. Layard’s Parakeet Psittacula calthropae Eight birds around the main paddyfield at

MF, but flighty. Several in SFR and Kudawa, a pair seen well feeding in trees near the main bridge at the latter.

105. Alexandrine Parakeet Psittacula eupatria Four around UNP including a pair copulating.

106. Rose-ringed Parakeet Psittacula krameri NE, and large numbers around UNP. 107. Sri Lanka Hanging Parrot Loriculus beryllinus Omnipresent at Kitulgala, MF, SFR

and Kudawa. Only seen well a handful of times. Usually observed or heard in flight. 108. Indian Pitta Pitta brachyura A single seen well at VP and very brief views of another

individual in a dry creekbed at UNP. 109. Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike Hemipus [leggei] picatus Kitulgala, VP, HPNP,

Kudawa. 110. Sri Lanka Woodshrike Tephrodornis affinis Two or three birds observed along the

reservoir canal at Udawalawa. A single seen briefly in UNP. 111. Common Iora Aegithina tiphia Kitulgala, MF, Udawalawa, SFR. 112. Marshall’s Iora Aegithina nigrolutea A pair fluked across and seen very well in

trackside shrubs at UNP. 113. Large Cuckooshrike Coracina [layardi] macei MF. 114. Black-headed Cuckooshrike Coracina melanoptera A pair in SFR and Kudawa

respectively. 115. Small Minivet Pericrocotus cinnamomeus MF and Udawalawa. 116. Orange Minivet Pericrocotus flammeus MF, HPNP, Pattipola, SFR.

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117. Brown Shrike Lanius cristatus Common around NE, at least 12 birds in UNP and a few at Kudawa.

118. Black-hooded Oriole Oriolus [ceylonensis] xanthornus Throughout the lowlands. 119. White-bellied Drongo Dicrurus [leucopygialis] caerulescens Moderately

common in the lowlands. 120. Sri Lanka Drongo Dicrurus lophorinus Three birds in MF including a nesting pair,

just after the main paddyfield. Four seen in SFR, one pair nest-building, and a single in Kudawa.

121. White-browed Fantail Rhipidura aureola Common around UNP, and a pair at SFR. 122. Black-naped Monarch Hypothymis [ceylonensis] azurea Kitulgala, MF, SFR,

Kudawa. 123. Asian Paradise Flycatcher Terpsiphone [ceylonensis] paradisi UNP, SFR, Kudawa. 124. *Sri Lanka Blue Magpie Urocissa ornata Surprised to encounter a noisy pair in

forest just before the main paddyfield at MF. Common and tame around the main entrance to SFR and occasionally around Kudawa.

125. House Crow Corvus splendens Throughout urban areas. Over 7000 birds estimated flying to roost one evening in Negombo.

126. Indian Jungle Crow Corvus culminatus NE, UNP, Mirissa. 127. Grey-headed Canary-flycatcher Culicicapa ceylonensis HPNP and Pattipola. 128. Cinereous Tit Parus cinereus Single at VP, four around the park HQ at HPNP and a

pair at Pattipola. 129. Ashy-crowned Sparrow-Lark Eremopterix griseus Six birds near the water’s edge at

UNP. 130. Jerdon’s Bush Lark Mirafra affinis Abundant in UNP. Over 40 birds seen, all on, or

nearby to the tracks typically.

Calotes calotes and Ahaetulla nasuta both from Sinharaja Forest Reserve.

131. Black-capped Bulbul Pycnonotus melanicterus Moderately common in good lowland forests; Kitulgala, MF, SFR, Kudawa.

132. Red-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus [haemorrhousus] cafer Throughout.

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133. Yellow-eared Bulbul Pycnonotus penicillatus Regularly encountered in single or small groups around NE; VP, Seetha Eliya, HPNP and Pattipola. Readily seen around Arrenga Pool at HPNP.

134. White-browed Bulbul Pycnonotus [insulae] luteolus UNP, and common around Kudawa.

135. Yellow-browed Bulbul Acritillas indica Singles around Kitulgala and MF, common around SFR and Kudawa.

136. Square-tailed Bulbul Hypsipetes ganeesa Common around Kitulgala, MF, SFR and Kudawa. Single at HPNP.

137. Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica Throughout. Large numbers around UNP with at least one tytleri (?) individual observed.

138. Hill Swallow Hirundo domicola Eight birds over grasslands at HPNP and a single at Pattipola.

139. Sri Lanka Swallow Cecropis hyperythra Ten birds seen overhead at Kitulgala south of the river. A few around SFR and Kudawa in mixed flocks.

140. Green Warbler Phylloscopus nitidus Throughout. Regularly heard rather than seen. 141. Large-billed Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus magnirostris Single seen well in trees next to

the Maha Eliya dormitory (HPNP) and a pair in SFR near the old research station. 142. Blyth’s Reed Warbler Acrocephalus dumetorum Throughout, even at Colombo

Airport. 143. Sykes’s Warbler Iduna rama Single in SFR and at Kudawa respectively. 144. Sri Lanka Bush Warbler Elaphrornis palliseri Six birds seen around Arrenga Pool

and just down the road at HPNP. Some more obliging than others, often came very close, but hard to see properly. Single also at Pattipola.

145. Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis HPNP, NE, UNP. 146. Grey-breasted Prinia Prinia [pectoralis] hodgsonii UNP. 147. Jungle Prinia Prinia [valida] sylvatica UNP, SFR, Kudawa. 148. Ashy Prinia Prinia [brevicauda] socialis UNP. 149. Common Tailorbird Orthotomus sutorius Throughout. 150. Sri Lanka Scimitar Babbler Pamatorhinus melanurus Single in MF just past the

main paddyfield. A secretive pair in VP, and several in SFR. 151. Tawny-bellied Babbler Dumetia [phillipsi] hyperythra Three birds along reservoir

canal, Udawalawa. 152. Dark-fronted Babbler Rhopocichla [nigrifrons] atriceps Regular in forest

throughout. Possible split from the Indian form. 153. Brown-capped Babbler Pellorneum fuscocapillus Five birds feeding

inconspicuously in MF before the first creek crossing. Several heard and seen along the first section of forest in SFR.

154. Orange-billed Babbler Turdoides rufescens Common in small flocks around Kitulgala, SFR, Kudawa.

155. Yellow-billed Babbler Turdoides [taprobanus] affinis Kitulgala, UNP (very common), Kudawa. A possible future split.

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156. *Ashy-headed Laughingthrush Garrulax cinereifrons Fairly readily encountered in SFR after the second entrance gate. Quite arboreal.

157. Yellow-eyed Babbler Chrysomma sinense UNP. 158. Oriental White-eye Zosterops palpebrosus Kitulgala, Udawalawa, SFR, Kudawa. 159. Sri Lanka White-eye Zosterops ceylonensis Several around VP, at least 20 seen

at HPNP, and small numbers around Pattipola. 160. Sri Lanka Hill Myna Gracula ptilogenys Several hanging around the main

paddyfield at MF. A pair seen in SFR near the second entrance gate. 161. Common Myna Acridotheres [melanosternus] tristis Throughout. A conspicuous race

due to its dark, chocolate-brown plumage. 162. *White-faced Starling Sturnornis albofrontatus A pair seen fairly briefly calling

from the top of a small tree in SFR halfway between the second entrance gate and the old research station.

163. Rosy Starling Pastor roseus UNP. 164. Pied Thrush Geokichla wardii At least five birds (4 males) fairly obvious in VP.

Generally in trees or along the stream. 165. Spot-winged Thrush Zoothera spiloptera Singles behind the Maha Eliya dormitory

(HPNP) and Pattipola. Several seen around Kudawa. Also seen by several other birders in MF while we were there.

166. Sri Lanka Thrush Zoothera imbricata Pair seen very well after one failed attempted beside the creek on the Pedro Scout Camp Rd near the tip at Seetha Eliya. One, possibly two, also seen in streamside forest near the old research station at SFR. A very cryptic bird.

167. Indian Blackbird Turdus [kinnisii] simillimus Single seen feeding with other thrush behind the Maha Eliya dormitory. A much prettier and trickier bird in Sri Lanka compared to India, and surely a good contender for a split.

168. Indian Robin Copsychus [leucopterus] fulicatus Common around UNP. 169. Oriental Magpie-Robin Copsychus saularis Throughout. 170. Asian Brown Flycatcher Muscicapa dauurica Kitulgala and Kudawa. 171. Brown-breasted Flycatcher Muscicapa muttui MF, VP, SFR, Kudawa. 172. Tickell’s Blue Flycatcher Cyornis [jerdoni] tickelliae Kitulgala, MF, SFR. 173. Dull-blue Flycatcher Eumyias sordidus Three birds around Arrenga Pool in

HPNP, calling strongly and showing well. Single also seen at Pattipola. 174. Indian Blue Robin Larvivora brunnea One seen in MF just after the main

paddyfield. Another single feeding with thrush behind the Maha Eliya dormitory (HPNP), and two brief sightings in SFR.

175. **Sri Lanka Whistling Thrush Myophonus blighi A pair seen along the edge of Arrenga Pool immediately after arriving in the early morning. Watched for several minutes as they moved through vegetation on the water’s edge while calling before becoming inconspicuous.

176. *Kashmir Flycatcher Ficedula subruba Single immature male eventually found at VP behind the women’s amenities block feeding around some disturbed earth. A cracking adult male seen very well in forest at Pattipola on two consecutive days.

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177. Pied Bush Chat Saxicola caprata HPNP and NE.

Oriental Magpie Robins performed nicely in Victoria Park and Square-tailed Bulbuls were regular in the lowlands forests.

178. Golden-fronted Leafbird Chloropsis aurifrons Udawalawa and Kudawa. 179. Legge’s Flowerpecker Dicaeum vincens A couple hanging around the main

paddyfield at MF. Singles in SFR and around Kudawa. 180. Pale-billed Flowerpecker Dicaeum [ceylonense] erythrorhynchos Throughout. 181. Purple-rumped Sunbird Leptocoma zeylonica Throughout the lowlands. 182. Purple Sunbird Cinnyris asiaticus Udawalawa. 183. Loten’s (Long-billed) Sunbird Cinnyris lotenius Kitulgala, good views at Pattipola

and along the reservoir canal, Udawalawa. 184. House Sparrow Passer domesticus NE. 185. White-rumped Munia Lonchura striata Regular in village areas; Kitulgala,

Udawalawa, Kudawa. 186. Scaly-breasted Munia Lonchura punctulata At least 30 birds along reservoir canal,

Udawalawa. 187. Black-throated Munia Lonchura kelaarti Three birds seen relatively well in bushes

and flying around a waterhole near Blue Magpie Lodge at Kudawa. 188. Tricolored Munia Lonchura malacca Five birds seen feeding on grasses not far

from the entrance, inside UNP. Likely hundreds seen in the very early morning flying off to feed, but unidentifiable.

189. Forest Wagtail Dendronanthus indicus Five birds seen strutting around VP, and four around UNP.

190. Western Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava UNP. 191. Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea Throughout. 192. Paddyfield Pipit Anthus rufulus NE, HPNP, UNP.

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193. Blyth’s Pipit Anthus godlewskii At least three birds definitively discerned from Paddyfield Pipits in UNP. Typically around short-medium grass near water.

Mammal List

1. Asian Highland Shrew Suncus montanus One likely individual seen at the Waterfield Track (NE).

2. Lesser False Vampire Megaderma spasma Numerous observed around Kitulgala. 3. Red Slender Loris Loris tardigradus Easily found in MF at night with the spotlight. Both

nights we observed two individuals. 4. Toque Macaque Macaca sinica Common throughout, especially in and around Nuwara

Eliya. 5. Tufted Grey Langur Semnopithecus priam UNP. 6. Purple-faced Langur Trachypithecus vetulus Highland race observed in the small patch

of forest near Pattipola, and others were observed around SFR. 7. Stripe-necked Mongoose Herpestes vitticollis One seen briefly numerous times over a

few days at Kitulgala feeding on a decaying porcupine. 8. Bryde’s Whale Balaenoptera edeni One observed next to the boat, no more than 800m

offshore about 10 minutes into the Blue Whale tour out of Mirissa with Raja and the Whales.

9. Blue Whale Balaenoptera musculus Five individuals were observed on the Mirissa trip. 10. Spinner Dolphin Stenella longirostris Around 100-150 observed in numerous small

groups over the whale watching trip. 11. Asian Elephant Elephas maximus A few individuals at UNP. 12. Yellow-striped Chevrotain Moschiola kathygre Two seen in MF on the first night of

spotlighting, and one seen at Kudawa. Both sightings were nocturnal. 13. Wild Water Buffalo Bubalus arnee Common in UNP. 14. Grizzled Giant Squirrel Ratufa macroura Common. 15. Travancore Flying-squirrel Petinomys fuscocapillus (HO) MF. 16. Layard’s Palm Squirrel Funambulus layardi Two observed chasing each other on the first

morning in Kitulgala, and a couple observed over the time at Sinharaja, especially at the second gate.

17. Three-striped Palm Squirrel Funambulus palmarum Throughout. 18. Dusky-striped Squirrel Funambulus sublineatus Kitulgala and SFR. 19. Indian Bush Rat Golunda ellioti SFR. 20. Black Rat Rattus rattus Of note, the Sri Lankan highland subspecies was seen in VP.

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Toque Macaques were frequently seen, unlike this Red Slender Loris from Makandawa Forest.

Grizzled Giant Squirrel and a Yellow-striped Chevrotain.